S1 94 oscilloscope adjustment DIY repair

In detail: adjusting the oscilloscope s1 94 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I bought an oscilloscope C1-94 somehow for carrying out repairs (I have been thinking about buying such a device for a long time), it is not new and got it cheap, though the probe turned out to be homemade there, then I will redo it, but still, since the device was rarely used, I decided to go through it a little and replace it, which did not work and gave jambs. So, I found a diagram, studied a bunch of forum information, guides and a few articles. All this took several days, 3-4 hours a day! I had to study a lot of information - this is still not a coffee maker, but a complex measuring device - some beginners also try to repair it, but they rush at it right away with a soldering iron and in a couple of hours the problem cannot be solved here, you need an approach, knowledge, experience.

Schematic diagram C1-94

In general, to begin with, I'll tell you briefly about the oscilloscope and its features, pros and cons, and in general my opinion in general. Perhaps there will be a lot of letters here, but I think a device of this category is worth it.

So, the main advantage of this measuring device is that there are no microcircuits and assemblies in it at all. There is practically nothing to repair looking for a rare replacement, repairing a transistor circuit from one side is even better.

Of course, there are several rare elements - such as germanium transistors in the generator and other loose stuff, but it is usually of high quality and can rarely break.

The oscilloscope is closed with a casing - which can be removed by unscrewing 4 screws and removing the legs with stands, remove the casing, on the frame is the main board where almost the entire part of the power supply and other regulating elements are mounted.

Video (click to play).

There is also a flip-up board, which is made this way for ease of installation and repair, and a board covered with a plastic casing at the back, which is fastened with a screw - and it just got worn out to unscrew!

For the convenience of repair, I removed the tube - you need to unscrew the clamp by slightly displacing it, as well as the guide clamp, which, while sinking, fixed it to adjust the position of the tube.

It is better to mark the socket with a marker, since there is no key on it and then you can measure the heat for a long time in order to put it in the right, correct position. The wires are flexible, durable, nothing came off during the repair process, everything was done to my conscience - these are not modern delicate Chinese devices, where half of the wiring and part of their fasteners can fall off at the very first dismantling. In particular, there was a poor balancing of voltages of 12-0-12 volts (bipolar), there the imbalance should be negligible, and how I did not regulate it turned out to be about 1 volt.

I began to check the electrolytes, simply by desoldering in turn and measuring the capacity of those who could reach - a couple turned out to be dried out, one new one blew up itself, confusing the polarity of the soldering back - there are very scanty markings on the PCB on the board, and if you solder several elements, you can get lost during installation back ...

When it was possible to set the voltage in the order of the norm, the balance was what was needed, adjusted with the sweep regulators, adjusted all the parameters, performed the calibration as expected, gave a signal from the assembled generator on a popular microcircuit NE555, looked - everything is in order, the device is now what you need.

By the way, you also need to wipe the dust at the oscilloscope - and it is better to moisten the napkin not in water, but to take something ready-made, soaked in alcohol or other similar means, in order to prevent oxidation of parts and elements of the circuits.

The switches can be cleaned, and their contacts can be wiped with acetone to make them shine and not black. Then, when they switch the operating modes of the device, there will be no jumps and serious distortions.

When reassembling after repair, check the position of the tube and set it straight.I attach to the article all the diagrams and materials that helped me in repairing this wonderful service oscilloscope. Repairs done by redmoon.

Repair and adjustment of the C1-94 oscilloscope

espec. ws / section6 / article95.html

Many specialists, and especially radio amateurs, are well aware of the S1-94 oscilloscope (Fig. 1). The oscilloscope, with its rather good technical characteristics, has very small dimensions and weight, as well as a relatively low cost. Thanks to this, the model immediately gained popularity among specialists engaged in the mobile repair of various electronic equipment, which does not require a very wide input signal bandwidth and the presence of two channels for simultaneous measurements. A fairly large number of such oscilloscopes are currently in operation.

In this regard, this article is intended for specialists who need to repair and adjust the S1-94 oscilloscope. The oscilloscope has a structural diagram typical for devices of this class (Fig. 2. It contains a vertical deflection channel (KVO), a horizontal deflection channel (CTO), a calibrator, a cathode-ray indicator with a high-voltage power supply and a low-voltage power supply.

The KVO consists of a switchable input divider, a pre-amplifier, a delay line and a power amplifier. It is designed to amplify a signal in the frequency range of 10 MHz to the level required to obtain a given vertical deviation coefficient (10 mV / div. 5 V / div with a step of 1-2-5), with minimum amplitude-frequency and phase frequency distortion.

The KGO includes a sync amplifier, a sync trigger, a trigger circuit, a sweep generator, a blocking circuit, and a sweep amplifier. It is designed to provide a linear deflection of the beam with a given sweep ratio from 0.1 μs / div to 50 ms / div with a step of 1-2-5.

The calibrator generates a signal to calibrate the instrument in amplitude and time.

The cathode ray indicator assembly consists of a cathode ray tube (CRT), a CRT power supply circuit, and an illumination circuit.

The low-voltage power supply is designed to supply all functional devices with voltages of +24 V and ± 12 V.

Let's consider the operation of an oscilloscope at the level of a schematic diagram.

The signal under investigation is fed through the input connector Ш1 and the push-button switch В1-1 ("Open / Closed input") to the input switchable divider on the elements R3. R6, R11, C2, C4. C8. The input divider circuit provides a constant input impedance regardless of the position of the vertical sensitivity switch B1 ("V / DIV"). The divider capacitors provide frequency compensation for the divider across the entire frequency band.

The signal under study from the KVO preamplifier circuit through the emitter follower stage on the T6-U1 transistor and the B1.2 switch is also fed to the input of the KGO synchronization amplifier for synchronous triggering of the sweep circuit.

The synchronization channel (ultrasonic unit) is designed to start the scan generator synchronously with the input signal to obtain a still image on the CRT screen. The channel consists of an input emitter follower on a T8-US transistor, a differential amplification stage on T9-US, T12-US transistors, and a synchronization trigger on T15-US, T18-US transistors, which is an asymmetric trigger with emitter coupling with an emitter follower on input on the transistor T13-U2.

The D6-UZ diode is included in the base circuit of the T8-UZ transistor, which protects the synchronization circuit from overloads. From the emitter follower, the clock signal is fed to the differential amplification stage. The differential stage switches (B1-3) the polarity of the synchronizing signal and amplifies it to a value sufficient for triggering the synchronization trigger. From the output of the differential amplifier, the sync signal is fed through the emitter follower to the input of the synchronization trigger.A signal normalized in amplitude and shape is removed from the collector of the T18-UZ transistor, which, through the decoupling emitter follower on the T20-UZ transistor and the C28-UZ, Ya56-U3 differentiating chain, controls the operation of the trigger circuit.

To increase the stability of synchronization, the synchronization amplifier, together with the synchronization trigger, is powered by a separate 5 V voltage regulator on the T19-UZ transistor.

The differentiated signal is fed to the trigger circuit, which, together with the sweep generator and the blocking circuit, provides the formation of a linearly varying sawtooth voltage in the standby and self-oscillating modes.

As a sweep generator, a timing capacitor discharge circuit through a current stabilizer was selected. The amplitude of the linearly varying sawtooth voltage generated by the sweep generator is approximately 7 V. The timing capacitor C32-UZ during recovery is quickly charged through the T28-UZ transistor and the D12-UZ diode. During the working stroke, the D12-UZ diode is locked by the control voltage of the starting circuit, disconnecting the timing capacitor circuit from the starting circuit. The capacitor is discharged through the T29-UZ transistor, connected according to the current stabilizer circuit. The discharge rate of the timing capacitor (and, consequently, the value of the sweep factor) is determined by the magnitude of the current of the T29-UZ transistor and changes when the timing resistances R12 are switched. R19, ​​R22. R24 in the emitter circuit using switches B2-1 and B2-2 ("TIME / DIV."). The sweep speed range has 18 fixed values. Changing the sweep factor 1000 times is ensured by switching the timing capacitors C32-UZ, C35-UZ using the Bl-5 ("mS / mS") switch.

Table 1. DIRECT CURRENT ACTIVE ELEMENT MODES

Added by (25.12.2015, 15:32)
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After a couple of turns on, a luminous dot appeared on the screen and that's it. Up, down, on the sides it is "possible" to move it. Brightness control works.

Where can you find such a diode? I mean the old USSR technology.
There is a suspicion that the “post office” dropped the package with the device, as the box was slightly dented on one side. Perhaps that is why this malfunction appeared.

There is no sweep.
According to the totality of signs, there may be a lack of penetration or a microcrack. Look at the board with a magnifying glass, solder anything suspicious. Try using an open, switched on oscilloscope to lightly push on the boards with something dielectric (always dielectric). It is difficult to find microcracks. Sometimes it's easier to solder everything stupidly.
I do not claim the accuracy of the recommendations. I didn’t deal with C1-94 so much.
The only thing is, if it has not been used before, but just stood, or was not used too competently, it may not be calibrated. There should be trimmers for calibration. Look at the side of the case. But this is the second. First, treat the scan. Possibly a horizontal deflection amplifier, possibly a saw generator. You can try to test the amplifier by applying any signal to the input of the UGO. I don't remember if this donkey has an external scan. You can apply there, if you have one.
C1-94 is not a bad donkey. I enjoyed working with him. Usually reliable. Yes, and check the EPS of the conductors. Old Soviet Conders are often junk and dry out. Weakness.

Added by (25.12.2015, 17:24)
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I will add. Because you write that you have not dealt with before. A fixed point on the screen no longer than a few seconds. And remove the brightness for now and defocus the beam while looking for a malfunction. The phosphor burns out very quickly at a fixed point. Do not solder the CRT socket while it is on the CRT. Microcrack in the glass from the temperature drop and that's it.

Added by (25.12.2015, 18:33)
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I have already forgotten the basics of checking. Check the power supply of 100 and 200 volts for VDU and UGO. There may be a malfunction somewhere there. If yours is assembled according to the scheme from the Crab, then there are two condensers, a resistor and a bridge. Perhaps one electrolyte is dry. Or a crack. Wires. Trance.

Not to mention the money, this oscilloscope is worth fighting for.

Pulled up the drift of the beam. After standard balancing according to the manual, the result is enough for about 20 minutes.It is especially fun when you have to watch two signals. or rather, one and the same, only at the entrance and exit. with amplitudes that are an order of magnitude different. when setting up, in a heap of wires. there is no short circuit button for the probes. and there is nowhere to put it. input divider from 0.01 to 1 and back, like a clockwork. All in all, the internet is a great thing, especially when you know what to look for. I just did it your way, Borodach, by gluing backs T1 and T2, and lengthening the legs. It's already been an hour, it's being tested. It seems that the result really changes the picture by an order of magnitude. periodically click from 0.5 to 1 - in place. the soul will not be overjoyed. Respect.

Boasted, I guess. just checked - there is, about half a division (1/10 of a cell). This is over an hour. It used to be a cage floor in 15 minutes.

And I also want to describe one moment. He's been chewed many times in different places, and you won't surprise the aces with him, but maybe someone who is not yet very in the know will come here - it will come in handy. A bit from afar.

I got this oscilloscope about a year ago, and until recently it worked as it did when I first turned it on. Namely: satisfactory beam thickness,

_________________
Those who served in the army do not laugh in the circus.

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