In detail: do-it-yourself water pressure regulator repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
1. - It is recommended to check the setting pressure, the response speed and the accuracy of maintaining the pressure by the regulator at monthly intervals. The operation of the pressure regulator is checked by changing the flow rate of water passing through it - by smoothly closing the valve installed on the same pipeline, while monitoring the pressure deviation at the point where the pulse is taken.
2. - At intervals of once every half a year, the impulse selection line should be cleaned. To do this, the section where the pressure regulator is installed should be turned off, drained, and the impulse line should be blown out, having previously disconnected it from the regulator and the pipeline.
3. - The strainer upstream of the pressure regulator is cleaned as it gets dirty. The clogging of the filter is determined by the readings of the pressure gauges provided before and after it, comparing the actual pressure drop across the filter with the pressure drop across the clean filter.
Repair of the water pressure regulator may be required if, during operation or maintenance, a deviation of the pressure at the point where the impulse is taken from the set value was detected.
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- Basil
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Good day! I really need advice! How can you disassemble the water pressure regulator? Water is leaking, and I want to figure out what's the matter. I was able to unscrew the side caps, but then I couldn't. The piston itself cannot be reached.
Attaching photo.
Video (click to play). |
How to disassemble the water pressure regulator
regulator1.jpg 2.33 kb, 4379 downloads since 2013-03-26
- Brick
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Oh, I had such a Chinese miracle, I myself suffered with it. I can even guess that water is leaking, most likely from a cold water riser. Right? Nothing leaks on hot water, and if the gearboxes are changed, then the one that leaked on cold water does not flow on hot water, but the one that flows from hot water to cold water, and how. Removing the side covers is not a problem, plumbers usually put them on flax + sealant, now only warm them up with a hairdryer and turn them hot. On the right, I wound 2 turns of Fuma under the O-ring of this piston, additionally polished the inner surface with an engraver with Anti-scratch. After that, within six months, everything is fine, nothing flows, although our water is regularly turned off (new building).
- Basil
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H'm. It is not very clear why this is so, but I will try to do the same. Indeed, only cold water drips. And what is Anti-scratch?
- Brick
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Special grinding paste for automobiles. It can be bought without any problems at any auto chemical store. Perhaps, you can use other means, I came across just that. I think it can be successfully replaced with any grinding paste.
- Santa
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Judging by the photo, there are no scratches, which means that you did not try so hard to unscrew it. You disassemble more boldly, do not hesitate)). Dripping from the gearboxes is normal, it is provided by the design. In the sense that dripping indicates that the seals are worn out. If no holes were left for atmospheric air, then the water that would have got on top of the piston with the network pressure, the reducer would have stopped altogether, and this can be much more dangerous than just undermining.
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The forum was created for beginners and experienced plumbers, welders, locksmiths, electricians and construction workers. Share your experience and get expert answers.
Good day!
Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what the device is called, so I am attaching a photo.
The photo shows a red arrow on a metal cap with a 1.5 mm hole in the middle.
Recently, water began to drip from the hole. I would like to know what kind of device it is, its device and how it is possible to eliminate the dripping of water.
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Remember how carefully we approach the choice of plumbing equipment during construction and repair, and then scrupulously comply with all manufacturers' requirements during installation. And this is natural, given the prices for plumbing and the laboriousness of its installation, as well as the desire to get reliable plumbing systems and devices that work without breakdowns. That is why it is doubly insulting when, over time, annoying breakdowns and leaks occur due to the fault of public utilities. We are talking about banal surges in water pressure in centralized water pipelines, which can not only render expensive equipment unusable, but also ruin new design repairs. The water pressure regulator (reducer) can prevent the occurrence of emergency situations.
The purpose of the WFD is to lower and stabilize the fluid pressure in engineering communications of any type. Structurally, water pressure reducers can be divided into two types:
- with adjustment of the pressure on the section of the line to the device, if you are guided by the direction of movement of the liquid (in the language of plumbers, the regulator is "to yourself");
- devices for stabilizing the water pressure in the branches connected to the outlet of the device (“after itself” regulator).
RVD of the first type automatically maintains the pressure in the pipeline due to the change in the flow area of the valve. It keeps the valve open until a predetermined line pressure is established. Such devices are called proportional, since their bypass capacity is directly proportional to the deviation of the instantaneous parameters from the set values. Upstream type reducers are used in heating systems, pumping stations, etc.
In everyday life, gearboxes "after themselves" are most often used to stabilize the water pressure. This device also regulates the pressure by changing the internal section of the valve, but it works in a completely different way. When the pressure limit is exceeded, the valve partially or completely blocks the fluid flow, and when the pressure drops, it opens.
The downstream pressure devices are simple, which partly explains their high reliability. No actuators are required for operation - the valve is controlled by the energy of the liquid flow. On the side of the pressure line, the pressure of water acts on the membrane (piston) of the reducer valve, trying to close it. On the other side, a spring with adjustable stiffness is installed, the purpose of which is to set the equilibrium position of the shutter. The reduction process is made possible by changing the flow area of the valve. His work can be clearly seen in the figure. The blue arrows show the direction of fluid movement. When the pressure at the inlet increases, the working fluid acts on the diaphragm, as a result of which the spring is compressed, and the valve disc moves to the seat, reducing the flow area, and, accordingly, the pressure at the outlet of the device. Decreasing the inlet head will cause the valve to open and increase fluid flow. The directions of the balancing forces are shown in the diagram in yellow and pink.
The advantages of RVD are their high reliability and unpretentiousness in work. With a simple setup, the device is able to accurately maintain the specified parameters, while requiring neither energy sources nor maintenance.
Installing a water pressure reducer at the inlet makes it possible to solve several problems:
As you can see, the household regulator allows you to eliminate many harmful factors that arise when the pressure in the lines is exceeded.
When choosing a regulator, be sure to pay attention not only to the design of the device and its technical characteristics, but also to the material from which it is made.
Modern WFD, depending on the design, are divided into piston and diaphragm. Despite the fact that the piston practically does not wear out, gearboxes of the first type are less reliable. This is due both to the sensitivity to the purity of water (the piston can jam from dirt or sand particles), and to the possibility of corrosion of structural elements.
Membrane-type RDVs are unpretentious in maintenance, since the diaphragm divides their working space into two chambers. One of them is completely sealed from contact with water. As you probably already guessed, it is in this half that most of the gearbox parts are installed. Subject to the rules of operation, the operation of the device does not require intervention, therefore the only drawback can be considered the need for regular monitoring of the integrity of the membrane.
By choosing a membrane-type regulator, you will save yourself the need to periodically clean the device.
Domestic gearboxes manufactured by the industry are designed for different inlet and outlet pressures. For example, a device that allows connection to a 15 bar line can provide output values in the range of 1-4 bar. In order not to be confused in terms, the value of 1 bar is often taken equal to 1 atmosphere, although in fact 1 bar = 0.987 atm. The outlet pressure of household regulators is 0.5 to 4 atm or 1 to 6 atm. To determine which appliance you need, look at the wiring requirements for your home equipment. Most often, the manufacturer indicates them in the technical passport or a special plate installed on the rear panel.
The second important parameter when choosing is the operating temperature of the WFD. Devices rated for a temperature range of 0-40 ° C can only be used when used in systems with cold water. If you need a device for "hot" water supply, choose a device that works in the range of up to 130 ºС.
Like other plumbing fittings, pressure regulators must be made of strong metals and alloys - steel, brass, bronze, etc. In addition, alloys containing iron must be composed of ligatures with anti-corrosive properties. In practice, in retail chains you can find both very worthy products, distinguished by high quality workmanship, and outright rubbish. “Separating the wheat from the chaff” is easy due to two criteria - price and weight. Firstly, a good thing cannot be cheap, and secondly, pick up the compared products and choose the one whose weight differs upward. Also, be sure to pay attention to the quality of the casting. Remember that a good manufacturer will never release a product with shells or bursts on the walls outside the territory of their workshops.
The water pressure reducer is often equipped with pressure gauges, which greatly simplifies their adjustment and allows you to monitor the operating parameters during operation. If possible, do not skimp on this simple indicator. Believe me, later you will regret the wrong choice.
The installation of the RVD pressure should be carried out by a plumber from the housing office. For those who are not looking for easy ways, but are trying to do everything in the house with their own hands, we will compose a short instruction for installing the device. So, what we need:
- water pressure regulator;
- shut-off ball valves (one if the inlet valve is already installed);
- coarse filter;
- adjustable and gas wrenches;
- sealing materials (fum tape, tow, thread).
Installing valves at the inlet and outlet of the gearbox will make it easier to remove the device for maintenance or replacement later.
Installation of WFD is no different from installing a water meter. Manufacturers recommend installing the product in horizontal sections of the pipeline, however, in practice, vertical installation is also allowed.
- Before starting work, shut off the water (do not forget to warn the neighbors in advance about the lack of water if it stops supplying to the riser).
- If necessary, install an inlet valve to which a mechanical filter is connected.
A household water pressure reducer must be installed in front of the meter in the direction of fluid flow.
Be sure to seal all connections. The seals on the side of the device are best done with sanitary flax (tow). This will allow you to painlessly install it in the desired position without the danger of leaks.
To adjust the RVD, supply water to it by closing the outlet valve. Use a screwdriver or wrench to turn the adjustment screw while checking the pressure readings on the pressure gauge. The optimal value is 3 atm. If you purchased a device without an indicator, then you can only hope for the accuracy of its factory adjustment, indicated in the product passport.
Maintenance of diaphragm regulators is reduced to monitoring the pressure in the line. Failure to adjust the output parameters indicates a damaged membrane. During operation, water can also leak from under the body parts. If signs of malfunction appear, the device is dismantled and disassembled. Typically, damage to the diaphragm will corrode the spring, stem, and other components. These parts, including gaskets, are sold as repair kits, so repairing the unit is easy. After installation and adjustment, the gearbox will be able to perform its functions again.
Installing a household water pressure regulator can solve several problems associated with an increased fluid pressure in pipelines. This will extend the service life of expensive equipment, save resources, and increase comfort. The simplicity of installation and maintenance of the gearbox makes it possible to use this useful device without the involvement of third-party specialists, so if you are worried about your property, do not postpone the installation of the WFD until later.
Today, on the canal, my construction project is a minute of savings for residents of very tall buildings. If you live in such a beautiful anthill, where there are 25 floors, then in your bathroom or in the kitchen of your apartment, reducers must be installed to limit the water pressure.
Excellent Italian gearboxes, which I returned to working order in just an hour, saving 2,500 rubles on new gearboxes and the work of a plumber.
In this video, we will take a closer look at the process of repairing or replacing the pressure reducer of the water supply system.
Plumbing in a private house | Installing a water pressure reducer - Today we will talk about a water pressure reducer.
Pressure reducer in water supply, device, principle of operation.
DIY construction, decoration, repair and design
Water pressure regulator (installation, advantages, disadvantages, malfunctions, design)
Times change, and with them the technologies that come to serve us also change. Along with technology, new devices come, designed to improve the quality of our life, minimize costs, preserve the ecological situation, etc. Despite the pretentious beginning and the seeming insignificance of the product, which we will talk about, the usefulness of the pressure regulator, if it works correctly, will be undeniable.
The water pressure regulator is usually placed as close as possible to the riser supplying water to the apartment (house). So if the regulator has a built-in shut-off element (ball valve), then it can also be used as an emergency shut-off valve. Currently, water regulators, depending on the version, include not only shut-off devices, but also fittings for control pressure gauges.
It is possible to design regulators with different connecting threads or couplings. So pipe and tapered threads must be tightened using sealing materials, such as flax or FUM tape. If you have a metric thread, then the seal is made by a soft gasket, which is compressed when the thread is tightened.
The last thing we wanted to briefly tell you about in this article is about the design features of the pressure regulator. The whole principle of operation is reduced to the fact that the pressure regulator has a spring-loaded shut-off element (seat-plate). Depending on the water pressure at the inlet and, accordingly, its flow rate, the spring mounted on the stem and the spring-loaded closing plate resist the flow in different ways. Thus, with a weak flow, it almost does not interfere with the passage of the flow, since the reduction in the construction length of the spring is negligible. With a strong flow, the spring is compressed more, which means that the resistance to the incoming flow is more significant.
Based on these properties, the flow of water supplied to your apartment or house is regulated. Below, as a particular example, a general view and designation of the main assemblies of the pressure regulator is given.
So, to summarize, I would like to say that if all nominal operating modes (pressure, flow rate) are observed in our water supply system, as well as provided that the pressure regulator is working properly, its use in the water supply network will be justified and profitable.
Help with advice. How to disassemble the water pressure regulator (reducer)? Probably piston. Reason for parsing - water leakage. Unscrew the side plugs. No further. The piston itself does not get out.
I can guess what is leaking on the x / v riser. I'm right? For sure. With this Chinese G called STC, I myself have suffered. It does not leak on hot water, you change the gearboxes and the one that ran on cold on hot not a drop, but from hot to cold cries not childishly. The side covers can be easily removed, most likely the plumbers put them on flax with sealant, now just warm them up with a hairdryer and turn them hot. In order not to leak on the right under the piston O-ring, Fuma wound up two turns and polished the inner surface with an engraver with Anti-scratch (automotive grinding paste). The flight is normal for half a year - not a drop, given the frequent shutdowns of water in the new building.
.. take it apart, do not be shy. there are no traces of effort in the photo. and dripping from gearboxes is a design idea. drops indicates wear on the seals. If no holes were left for atmospheric air, then water that got on top of the piston with network pressure would have stopped the operation of the reducer. in some cases it is much more dangerous than a little digging.
Tell me if the wiring diagram is assembled correctly? I am confused by the vertical arrangement of the "sump". Does it work in this position? And on the pressure regulator: disassemble - did not disassemble, twisted, tugged - stopped dripping.But on another riser on hot water, so much so that it almost flooded the neighbors. A plumber came, cut out a gasket from the rubber and inserted it together with a metal ruble under the lid with a hole. Here is such a “wise” decision.
The circuit is assembled correctly, the unscrewing part of the sump must point down for service. If the regulator is dripping, most likely the O-ring is torn, it is better to replace it with a normal one.
and what does the regulator do BEFORE the meters?
The tszh gave the following connection diagram:
The regulator BEFORE the counter, protected only by a sump. Here, everyone is advised to put the regulator after the 100μm filter. I don’t think of course that they will refuse to seal the meters, but I wonder if water hammers are terrible for meters?
I was a little hasty and already bought ITAP regulators. On hot water, it buzzes at 3 atm, at 4 atm less. On the cold - after closing the consumer, the pressure is 3 atm, but after five minutes it rises to 4.5. 5.0 atm. And their bandwidth is not so hot. There was a choice to buy RBM and ITAP chose the latter, since the first was confused by the plastic part of the structure. Is it worth changing the itap to RBM or are they similar in quality and characteristics? FAR - the toad won't let you buy. Are there any more alternatives?
Sery Look at the Caleffi
Sery wrote:
I wonder if water hammer meters are scary?
In the installation recommendations from different manufacturers of water meters, nowhere in the world did I mention the need for gearboxes. Only mud collectors.
Nothing special. The same headlight, just not chrome. Well acc. a little cheaper.
I looked, thanks, the one that without plastic elements of the case (536041) is more than three tr., Does not fit into the budget, similar to the headlight. And the one for a thousand (533441) plastic, I certainly understand that the plastic is of high quality, but. no thanks again!
Apparently there are no worthy alternatives, you will have to fork out for headlights. It seems like his throughput is not bad, though he did not find the size of the passage hole, only subjective estimates.
In cold water, the pressure gauge went off scale (watts 6 atm), already more than 6 atm and rested against the limiter. The reducer is still buzzing on the hot one, I'll go to hand it over as a marriage.
There was no time to find out what exactly was wrong, I handed over both gearboxes where I took it, let the seller or manufacturer figure it out. There is a suspicion that the pressure gauge was faulty, since the inlet pressure at the cold water supply is 5 atm (measured then with a Faro gauge).
The Shaitan the seller said: “I sell the radio transmitter - no marriages, no marriages have been made, the views of Madin Talia are covered”
I say - I have no reason to deceive you, look at the photo on your phone if you don’t believe it. And Mercedes break down, why renounce? // Show.
He - yes santekhnik does not know how to stauy, there the arrow eats. Why are you showing me this photograph ?!
I - I put the reducer myself, look at the photo, you can see that the arrow is connected, and if it were against the arrow, the pressure would immediately go off scale, and so 3 atm and gradually grows until it stops.
He - yes, you sovsem then do not know how to stauyt, santekhnika nuances stolko, master is necessary. ... Okay, ne, I need to do this kind of reklama, I'll give the tebe dengi.
We are not proud people, we took the money and went our own way, there was enough money for almost half of the headlight reducer
In general, I vowed to take more from this seller anything else, he convinced me to take itap instead of RBM. Before that, the rbm scared me away only with plastic parts, but I intended to buy it, and here is another opinion. )
There is a handkerchief in the same market, and southern guys are also trading. In relation to this, they are radically different. They will prompt you on business and communicate in a more cultured way, albeit with an accent. And most importantly, they do not vparivayut!
The water pressure reducer is an important element of the heating system and water supply. In some cases, there may be a need to regulate it. Before doing any work, you need to decide on the model of the device. For example, some gearboxes are adjusted directly during production.Others may require a screwdriver or wrench to adjust. And the setup process itself has some nuances.
A pressure regulator is a small device that is used to deal with water hammer. Also, with its help, you can control and, if necessary, adjust the water pressure in a particular system. The use of this device allows you to optimize the work and increase the service life of engineering communications. Often, a pressure reducer is used at such facilities:
- skyscrapers;
- shop workers;
- technological structures;
- residential buildings.
The devices used to adjust the pressure in the system are divided into dynamic and statistical products. The first type is used in main pipelines at industrial enterprises. They allow you to regulate the flow of fluid in systems. As for the statistical products, they are installed in pipelines with an unstable water supply. That is why statistical reducers are used in multi-storey and country houses.
The pressure reducer has several functions at the same time. First of all, it is used to protect plumbing fixtures from high pressure. So, most plumbing and household appliances are designed to work when the water pressure in the pipeline does not exceed 3 atm. If this figure is slightly higher, then the water supply system is under serious stress. Subsequently, valves, connections and other elements of the system and plumbing fixtures suffer
Also, the gearbox is used to combat water hammer, which can occur both in industrial plants and in residential buildings. As a result of a sharp jump in water pressure in the water supply system, a water hammer occurs, which can damage the structural elements of the system. There are cases when such a sharp jump led to a rupture of the boiler. Therefore, experts recommend installing a gearbox, as it will prevent the occurrence of such problems. It is very important to take into account the installation in the water supply system of the apartment.
The pressure reducer is widely used in homes where the pressure of cold and hot water is constantly jumping. Adjusting the water pressure regulator in the apartment will solve this issue once and for all. Also, lowering the water pressure in the apartment will reduce its consumption by 25% or more. How to choose a water pressure reducer in detail.
Many owners are wondering how to adjust the water pressure regulator in the apartment. This task can be easily done by hand. Most devices come pre-configured. Accordingly, the pressure in them is 3 bar. But, if necessary, you can reduce or increase this parameter yourself.
You may need a wrench or wide screwdriver to make adjustments. The choice of tool depends on the gearbox model. Of course, in modern devices, configuration is done manually without the use of any additional tools.
First of all, you need to make sure that the water pressure reducer in the water supply is securely installed. After installation, the devices open the water supply. At this stage, you need to check the system for leaks. To prevent such problems, it is worth using a sealing material when installing the gearbox.
Adjustment of the water pressure reducer in the apartment is carried out with the taps closed. At the bottom of the device there is a locating head, which is responsible for adjusting the fluid pressure in the pipeline. If the pressure needs to be increased, the head rotates clockwise. Otherwise, the rotary movement is counterclockwise.
One full rotation of the head allows a pressure change of 0.5 bar. This will be noticeable by the movement of the arrow.Thus, the adjustment of the water pressure regulator in the apartment is carried out. The work can be easily done by hand.
But, how to adjust the water pressure in the apartment if there is a budget reducer that does not have a pressure gauge. There are several ways to resolve the issue:
- The first option involves the temporary installation of a pressure gauge in the system, which will allow you to accurately determine the pressure value. After the adjustment of the water reducer in the apartment is carried out, the measuring device is dismantled, and a plug is put in its place.
- The second option is easier to implement. There is no need for installation and further dismantling of the measuring device. Adjustment is carried out exclusively by eye. After several rotations of the head, you need to open the mixer and visually appreciate the force of the head.
The disadvantage of the second method is that there is no way to set the exact value of the head. In the future, this may cause malfunctions in the operation of household appliances and plumbing. The fact is that there is a norm of cold water pressure in an apartment, at which the plumbing fixtures work normally. But, if the pressure is too high or low, then this will lead to a violation of the rules for their operation.
There are often cases that the pressure in the water supply system drops, the reason is the filter is clogged or the water pressure regulator at the entrance to the apartment is oxidized. To solve this problem, you can lightly knock on the case or take a socket wrench and turn the adjusting screw.
In connection with such features, experts recommend taking seriously the choice of the device. It is best to pay attention to modern models that include a control measuring device and are easy to adjust without the use of additional tools. Among the popular brands are Honeywell, Watts, Officine Riqamonti. It will also be useful to install a filter, which will protect the gearbox from clogging and thereby extend its service life.
Home water supply refers to complex hydraulic structures, the organization of which must be carried out in accordance with all the rules.
Accidents in the system can occur both due to errors in the installation of pipes or plumbing fixtures, and due to violation of operating rules. The latter also includes such a widespread phenomenon as pressure surges in the pipeline, to combat which special devices are used - pressure regulators.
The devices are capable of performing a number of important functions simultaneously. The first is to prevent pressure build-up. Almost all household plumbing fixtures are capable of operating in a mode up to 3 atm. Exceeding this parameter is fraught with overloads for the water supply system at home. As a result, the service life of functional units on washing machines and dishwashers is noticeably reduced, and the reliability of connecting adapters and gaskets decreases.
Pressure regulators prevent water hammer. We are talking about sudden changes in water pressure arising from malfunctions of pumping equipment or improper use of valves. Water hammering can lead to very disastrous consequences, including pipeline ruptures and breakdowns of boiler units. Sometimes the pressure surges are so large that the boiler explodes.
Another useful feature is economical water consumption. By adjusting the water pressure, you can significantly reduce its consumption. For example, if the pressure is reduced from 6 to 3 atm, the savings can reach 20-25% (during the opening of the tap, a jet of a smaller volume will be released).
Hydraulic controllers help reduce noise when using mixers and taps. The reason for the annoying hum of the fittings lies in the increased pressure, due to which the water pressure after opening the valve acquires a boundary force. Thanks to the regulator, the water pressure becomes stable and decreases to optimal values.
In the event of a pipeline rupture, water losses will decrease, since the device reacts to a drop in pressure by reducing the water supply. Basically, the water supply systems of private houses are equipped with regulators (reducers), where they, together with a hydraulic accumulator, are switched to a circulation pump.
Water pressure regulators are presented in the plumbing market in several varieties. At the place of installation, the devices are divided into two groups:
- "To yourself." The flow voltage is stabilized in front of the reducer;
- "after myself". The water pressure is stabilized downstream of the installation point.
Regardless of the principle of operation, any pressure switch consists of the following structural elements:
- valve (piston). Serves as the core of the device;
- springs (membranes);
- housing. It can be cast iron, brass or steel.
In addition to the standard set of parts, some models are additionally equipped with a pressure gauge, a coarse filter, an air valve and a ball valve.
In terms of throughput, the regulators are divided into household (0.5-3 m3), commercial (3-15 m3) and industrial (over 15 m3).
According to the principle of operation, RVD are piston, membrane, flow-through, automatic and electronic.
The simplest design water pressure valves (also called mechanical). Pressure regulation is carried out by a compact, spring-loaded piston by decreasing or increasing the bore. To adjust the outlet water pressure, the device has a special valve: by rotating it, you can loosen or compress the spring.
The weak points of piston regulators include their sensitivity to the presence of debris in the water: piston clogging is the main cause of damage. To prevent such phenomena, a special filter is usually included in the gearbox kit. Another disadvantage is the large number of movable mechanical units, which affects the degree of reliability of the gearbox. The piston device is capable of regulating the pressure in the 1-5 atm mode.
Very reliable and unpretentious devices that make it possible to adjust the water pressure over a wide range (0.5-3 m3 / hour). For living conditions, this is a very decent indicator.
The core of the device is a spring-loaded diaphragm: to avoid clogging, a self-contained sealed chamber is used for its installation. The recoil from the compressing or expanding spring is transferred to a small valve, which is responsible for the size of the cross-section of the outlet channel. The cost of diaphragm restraints is quite high. Due to the difficulty of replacement, this procedure is usually performed by experienced plumbers.
A feature of this model of water pressure regulators is that there are no moving elements in it. This has a beneficial effect on the reliability and durability of the devices.
The pressure is reduced thanks to the intricacies of narrow channels. When passing through numerous turns, water is divided into separate branches, at the end it again merges into one, but not so fast. In domestic applications, flow reducers can be found in irrigation systems. The disadvantage of the device is the need for an additional regulator at the output.
Small unit consisting of a diaphragm and a pair of springs. Special nuts are used to change the compression force. When the inlet water has a weak head, this leads to a weakening of the membrane. The increase in pressure in the pipe provokes an increase in compression.
A spring forces the contacts on the automatic pressure reducer to open and close again. This, in turn, turns on and off the circulation pump of the forced water supply system. The design of automatic high pressure hoses basically duplicates membrane devices, differing only in the presence of two adjustment screws for setting the operating pressure range.
A special mechanism monitors the pressure of water in the pipe, for which a motion sensor is used.After processing the received data, a decision is made to turn on the pumping station. The electronic regulator will block the activation of the pump if the pipeline is not filled with water. The structure includes the main body, sensors, electronic circuit board, switching bushing (thanks to it, the supply wire is switched on) and threaded nipples for connecting to the system.
The stabilizer has a convenient display for displaying water flow characteristics. Mechanical regulators are sometimes not able to effectively protect the system from dry running, which is why it is necessary to constantly monitor it for the presence of water. In contrast, electronic models with a controller are able to constantly monitor the filling of water. Reducers of this type operate almost silently, reliably protecting all units from hydraulic shocks.
As the standards for plumbing and sewage systems state, a water pressure regulator must be installed at the inlet between the shut-off valve and the meter. In this case, reliable protection of all hydraulic devices, including metering and filtration devices, is guaranteed.
Most often, a water pressure reducer in apartments is needed for safety net - to reduce the pressure in the pipe.
Note! The optimal installation point is on the riser, right behind the meter and the filtration unit.
The first step is to assemble the device with the obligatory installation of plugs on the side holes. In the future, pressure gauges are mounted on these branch pipes. It is best to place the water pipe horizontally: the RVD in such a scheme, before and after it, has a shut-off valve. When installed in apartments, the gearbox must be positioned strictly vertically (installation horizontally or with an inclination is strictly prohibited).
The installation of an apartment relay is in many ways similar to a similar procedure with a hot and cold water metering device or a coarse filter. To indicate the direction of movement of the liquid, the body of the product is marked with an index (the seat for the pressure gauge is located in the upper part of the body). When starting the installation work, they shut off the water supply, having warned the neighbors in advance (if the installation is carried out on a riser). Working on polypropylene pipes will require the use of special adapters (as a rule, they come with the product).
In some cases, it will be useful to include in the piping of the regulator an inlet shut-off valve equipped with a strainer. A prerequisite is the presence of a ball valve on the water pressure regulator. In order to avoid leaks, all connecting joints must be well sealed, for which tow or FUM tape is used. After installing the seal, the connections are tightened with a gas wrench. However, it is important not to overdo it, given the fact that in most cases brass fastening nuts are used, which are of medium strength. Installation work is rather complicated, therefore, in the absence of proper experience, professional plumbers are invited to perform them.
A water pressure regulator in a private house carries the same functional load as in an apartment. The only difference is the presence of a pump in the system that maintains the required pressure. RVD in combination with pumping equipment is installed in such a way that the pressure gauge looks up. The installation point of the device is the place where the home system is connected to the main pipe or supply from the well (after the water meter). For ease of installation, some manufacturers supply regulators with a pump for sale.
When organizing the piping of the regulator, it is important not to forget about the coarse filter (if it is not present in the circuit initially). The installation point of the filter is the entrance to the chimney. On both sides (as in apartments), the high pressure hose is equipped with shut-off valves. To stabilize the flow force, after strapping the device, a straight line is installed (the length of this section is 5 working diameters).All work must be performed by a person with the appropriate skills.
Special standards for the operation of domestic water supply systems recommend the outlet water pressure in the range of 2-3.5 kg / cm2. This mode can be obtained only by adjusting the water pressure reducer. The speed of action of different models of RVD is different. The flow of the system provokes a decrease in the pressure force by about 1.5 atm (the exact indicator depends on the specifics of the circuit). After a few seconds, an increase in pressure is observed to a value below average. The ideal parameter of the output value should be inferior to the input value by at least 1.5 kg / cm2, otherwise this will lead to a noticeable deceleration of the speed of fluid movement through the pipes.
It is important to take these norms into account when adjusting water pressure reducers. To determine that the reducer is not working correctly, pair pressure gauges or a control fluid intake in front of the pressure regulator will help. It is possible to adjust the RVD only if the system is in working tone and it has the required fluid pressure. Having created such conditions, in the course of rotation of the adjusting screws, you can easily determine all the changes in the indicators (this will be displayed on the pressure gauge). It is not recommended to carry out such manipulations without a measuring device, as this can lead to a violation of the factory settings.
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During the operation of the high pressure pump, it is necessary to control the pressure in the system. If the output parameters of the device cannot be adjusted, the diaphragm is most likely damaged. Sometimes water starts to seep through the joints on the case. Any signs of breakage serve as a signal to dismantle and disassemble the device. Most often, the diaphragm is injured by a rusty spring or stem. These assemblies, along with the seals, can be found in repair kits available from your plumbing store.