BRP (BOMBARDIER) SKI-DOO OEM - 515176189 - volt regulator - Snowmobile Voltage Regulator
• The price is for 1 piece • Original new part • Fits on many models of snowmobiles • Also used on LYNX snowmobiles
Choose the right tuning, get the most out of it and enjoy new experiences. Best regards, VladExtremeLife team.
BRP (Bombardier Recreational Products) is a Canadian company dating back to 1942 when Joseph-Armand Bombardier founded his business in the province of Quebec. Today BRP is the largest company, which employs about five and a half thousand people. BRP is a company with deep roots, traditions, the main priority of which is always innovation. BRP currently owns brands such as Ski-Doo and Lynx (snowmobiles), Can-Am (ATVs), Sea-Doo (jet skis), Evinrude outboards and Rotax engines. All BRP equipment is revered and dearly loved by fans of extreme sports, for example, ski-Doo snowmobiles are iconic and reference, especially in Canada, as a result of which they were included in the list of the greatest inventions of the country.
Video (click to play).
SKI-DOO a few words about yourself: Since J.-A. Bombardier founded the company in 1942, our name was synonymous with quality and creativity. His pioneering spirit is a legacy that drives us to grow and explore new frontiers. Today in the Americas, Europe and the Asia-Pacific region, more than 7,600 people support the spirit in all of our vehicles and products.
At BRP, innovation and passion are at the heart of our commitment, our products and our brands. Be it our ship and Sea-Doo boats; our snowmobiles Ski-Doo and Lynx; our cards and Rotax engines; Whether our Can-Am ATVs or our Evinrude outboards, those values are brought to life through technology and design inspired by a unified and shared compelling mission: to bring consumers the most extraordinary experience.
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Buyer questions and answers
Item Diameter 00inch
Model Name 515175656 515175939 515176189
External Testing Certification ISO 9001
Material Type Aluminum
Wcp brand
Item Weight 0.5kg
Item Width 00inch
Special features universal
Item Height 00inch
is_customized Yes
If the item is not as described, you can return the item for return shipping charges, or keep the item and negotiate compensation with the seller.
Full refund if product isn't received in 60 days
Once assembled, the simplest voltage regulator on one transistor was intended for a specific power supply and a specific consumer, of course it was not necessary to connect it anywhere else, but as always there comes a moment when we stop doing the right thing. The consequence of this is the hassle and thought of how to live and be further and the decision to restore what was created earlier or continue to create.
There was a stabilized switching power supply that gave an output voltage of 17 volts and a current of 500 milliamps. A periodic change in voltage was required in the range of 11 - 13 volts. And the well-known single-transistor voltage regulator circuit coped with this perfectly. From myself, I added only an indication LED and a limiting resistor to it. By the way, the LED here is not only a "firefly" signaling the presence of an output voltage.With a properly selected value of the limiting resistor, even a small change in the output voltage is reflected in the brightness of the LED, which gives additional information about its increase or decrease. The output voltage could be varied from 1.3 to 16 volts.
KT829 - a powerful low-frequency silicon composite transistor, was installed on a powerful metal radiator and it seemed that, if necessary, it could withstand a heavy load, but there was a short circuit in the consumer's circuit and it burned out. The transistor has a high gain and is used in low-frequency amplifiers - you can really see its place there and not in voltage regulators.
On the left, removed electronic components, on the right prepared by him for replacement. The difference in quantity is two names, but in the quality of the schemes, the former and the one that it was decided to collect, it is incomparable. This begs the question - "Is it worth assembling a circuit with limited capabilities when there is a more advanced version" for the same money ", in the literal and figurative sense of this saying?"
The new circuit also has a three-pin e-mail. component (but this is no longer a transistor) constant and variable resistors, an LED with its own limiter. Only two electrolytic capacitors have been added. Typically, typical circuits indicate the minimum values of C1 and C2 (C1 = 0.1 μF and C2 = 1 μF) that are necessary for stable operation of the stabilizer. In practice, the capacitance values range from tens to hundreds of microfarads. Capacities should be located as close to the microcircuit as possible. For large capacities, the condition C1 >> C2 is mandatory. If the capacitance of the capacitor at the output exceeds the capacitance of the capacitor at the input, then a situation arises in which the output voltage exceeds the input, which leads to damage to the stabilizer microcircuit. To eliminate it, a protective diode VD1 is installed.
This scheme has completely different possibilities. Input voltage from 5 to 40 volts, output 1.2 - 37 volts. Yes, there is an input-output voltage drop of about 3.5 volts, but there are no roses without thorns. But the KR142EN12A microcircuit, called a linear adjustable voltage stabilizer, has good protection for exceeding the load current and short-term protection against short circuits at the output. Its operating temperature is up to + 70 degrees Celsius, it works with an external voltage divider. Output load current up to 1 A for continuous operation and 1.5 A for short-term operation. The maximum allowable power when operating without a heat sink is 1 W, if the microcircuit is installed on a radiator of sufficient size (100 cm2) then P max. = 10 W.
The process of the updated editing itself took no more time than the previous one. At the same time, not a simple voltage regulator was obtained, which is connected to a stabilized voltage power supply, the assembled circuit, when connected even to a network step-down transformer with a rectifier at the output, itself gives the necessary stabilized voltage. Naturally, the output voltage of the transformer must correspond to the permissible parameters of the input voltage of the KR142EN12A microcircuit. Instead, you can use the imported analogue of the integral stabilizer LM317T. author Babay iz barnaula.
The problems of "undercharging", as, in principle, and "overcharging" the battery, can be caused by many reasons, but the very first and most common on many cars (our VAZs are no exception here), as well as on many motorcycles, is the output of the generator relay-regulator from building. This device, in spite of its compactness, will save your battery and make its service life much longer. However, if they fail, it can simply kill the battery in a matter of weeks, so if you see white streaks, and also, the engine does not start after the night, it does not even “turn” the starter - it's time to check the relay regulator of your car, but here's how it is do it yourself, and today I will tell you in detail ...
THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE
Relay-regulator Is a device that regulates the current from the car generator, preventing the battery from recharging, protecting it from overcharging, which is harmful to the battery. Thus, this device greatly extends the battery life.
In fact, it is just a voltage regulator that prevents the voltage from the generator from exceeding the threshold of 14.5 Volts, it is a very accurate device and is mandatory for all types of cars. However, it can be distinguished into two types.
To exaggerate, there are only two types, but each works according to the same principle, namely, "cuts" or increases the voltage to the desired level.
Combined with a brush assembly. It is usually mounted on the generator itself, in the case where the brushes are located, there is also a relay-regulator.
Separate. It is usually mounted on the body of the car, the wires go from the generator to it, and only then to the battery.
The housings are non-separable and tight and of a different type (often filled with sealants or special adhesives), that is, they are not repaired. To be honest, they are quite cheap, especially for our VAZs, so it's easier to buy a new one than to pick an old one.
These are the most common types, of course, before there were so-called combined with terminals, but they did not take root, because the device is not very convenient, so I will not talk about them.
If your relay is "covered" there is a constant recharge, then it is worth changing it, but first you need to make sure that it is in it. Now there are only two methods of checking: - without removing it on the car itself, and checking an already removed relay. Let's look at both options.
Indirect signs
If your "regulator" is out of order, you will notice it very quickly, especially if it is winter and frost outside. The fact is that there will be either "undercharge" or battery recharge. Undercharged - you simply do not start your car - you come to the parking lot, insert the key, and the car barely turns the engine, or does not start at all, sometimes even the lights go out.
When overcharged - almost the same thing will happen, only the reason will be the boiling off of the electrolyte from the battery cans. Indirectly, it can be determined by the rapid decrease in electrolyte in the banks, and white bloom on the battery on top, as well as on parts of the body under it. It is worth considering and checking the regulator relay.
However, this is not our method, we need to make sure more precisely.
The correct method
To do this, we will use our voltmeter, we need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running. To begin with, I want to note that with the engine not running normal voltage should be within 12.7V, perhaps a little less, but if you already have 12V, then the battery needs to be recharged! Or look for reasons for undercharging.
We start the engine
We put multimeter for a value up to 20 Volts
We connect the probes to the terminals
If the voltage is approximately in the range of 13.2 - 14V, this is normal.
We increase the speed (say, up to 2000 - 2500), the voltage will start to rise, from about 13.6 to 14.2 V, this is also normal.
Then we try at maximum speed (more than 3500), the voltage should be from 14 to 14.5V, but not more!
If you have deviations, up or down, namely, at any speed, the voltage remained at 12.7V, or even dropped to 12V, then this indicates a malfunction of the relay-regulator.
Also, if the voltage is higher than 14.5V, for example - 15-16V, again the relay-regulator is faulty, you need to change it.
To be completely honest, the failure is not always indicated only by the relay, often the generator itself fails. If the "regulator" is located separately, then you need to change it first, if nothing has changed, remove the generator and completely check the system. If the brush assembly is combined with the relay, then the generator must be removed without fail!
First, we will check the combined circuit of the relay-regulator together with the brush assembly. These are now installed on many foreign cars, and by the way, on many domestic cars (they are often labeled Ya212A).
As you understand here, it is imperative to remove the generator and disassemble it, since this combined unit is attached at the back next to the generator shaft, along which these brushes go. For this:
We are looking for a special "window" on the back of the generator, where the brushes are immersed.
We unscrew the fastening bolt.
We remove the brush assembly.
We clean it - as a rule, it will be in graphite dust, brushes are made of graphite, with the use of special coal.
Then we need to check it, but for this we assemble a certain circuit, it is advisable to use a power supply with a regulated load or a charger. We also need to take an ordinary 12V light bulb from a car, for example, from "dimensions", we will need wires to assemble the entire system.
We may need a battery, because many chargers do not work without it. But already from the wire from the battery, we connect the relay-regulator, to the brushes of which we connect a 12V light bulb, this can be done with small crocodiles, the main thing is not to break the graphite elements. A small diagram for understanding.
If you connect everything in a calm state, then the light will just light up and stay on, this is normal, since the brush assembly is a conductor of electricity from the shaft. Let me remind you in a calm state, the voltage on the brushes will be about 12.7V.
Now we need to raise the voltage on the charger, up to 14.5 V, the lamp will be on, but when this threshold is reached, it should go out! That is, 14.5 V is a kind of "cut-off" of further voltage growth! If you lower the value, then the lamp should light up again. Then your relay-regulator is working, it has passed the test.
If the voltage reaches 15-16V, and the light is on, this means the relay is out of order, it needs to be replaced! It does not provide a "cut-off" and will help to overcharge the battery. Here's a simple check. Now a small video on the topic.
Similarly, you can check a new type of regulator, that is, a separate one, here the check process is much easier. For example, let's take a model of the Ya112B type, they were installed on many domestic cars before (VAZ).
This is a separate element, so we just unscrew it from the body (sometimes from the generator cover) and attach it to our stand, once again I want to remind you that it is desirable to have a 12V power supply, then the verification process is much easier. If not, use a charger (with adjustment modes) and connect according to the lower diagram.
The check is the same, we increase the voltage to 14.5 V, the lamp should go out, if not, or it turns off when the voltage is much higher, then the relay is out of order and needs to be replaced.
This is a very old type of relay, it was installed even on "kopecks", as well as on many rear-wheel drive cars. It was also always separately attached to the body, but the check here is slightly different in terms of contacts.
If you take their markings, then there are only two of them - "67" and "15". The first contact "67" is a minus as well as the relay case itself, but "15" is a plus. The principle of operation is the same, we connect our charger - we start testing, we increase the voltage to 14.5V, then we look at the lamp. If disconnected well, no - bad, replacement.
There is another "life hack" - if you connect a light bulb, bypassing the regulator relay to the wires that went to pins 15 and 67, then remove the wire from the positive terminal of the battery - if the motor has not stalled, then the generator is "alive".
Often, if the culprit for charging problems may not be the regulator itself, but its terminals, from time to time, they, like many on the car, oxidize - which prevents the generator from working normally and recharging our battery, so first, before changing this unit, try to clean it. remove oxides and other deposits. By the way, this also applies to the battery terminals, they need to be cleaned and protected at least once a season.
Therefore, first of all, if the multimeter gives you - 11 or slightly below 12V at the terminals of the machine, try first to clean the terminals and contacts, then measure again. It is possible that the reason is in them.
This concludes the article, I think it was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.
Date: 23.09.2015 // 0 Comments
Before parsing and DIY generator regulator relay repair, you need to make sure that the relay is really out of order. To do this, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the materials on how to check the generator regulator relay. If, after checking, the malfunction is confirmed, you can safely proceed to disassembling and diagnosing the components.
Disassemble the relay regulator VAZ it is not difficult at all, for this you need to remove the plastic case cover, which is fastened with latches. Next, you need to unscrew the two screws holding the transistor and unsolder the terminals from the terminals 67 and 15.
Important! When removing the board, you must follow the insulating substrate of the transistor and try not to lose it. Without it, you cannot turn on the relay into operation..
The board and the location on it of the radio elements of the old samples of the regulator relay are slightly different from the new ones, but the circuit itself has not changed.
Checking the elements must begin depending on the symptomatology of the malfunction.
If the relay somehow works, overestimates or underestimates the voltage, then most likely the transistors are intact. They can be checked last. The first to check the rating of the resistors R1-R3 and the zener diode with a diode D1; D4.
Attention! The value of the resistor R3 may differ from that indicated in the diagram. On the relay under test, the resistance R3 was 4.7 kOhm. It must be identified by color or other markings and manually checked for resistance
If the relay does not turn on at all, we call the fuse F1, diodes D2; D3 and all the transistors in the first place. When checking transistors, you must not forget to solder them from the circuit.
For clarity and convenience, all components from the diagram are marked on the board. Often, the entire board is covered with a layer of protective varnish, this must be taken into account and washed off at the points where the probes are connected.
In this case, the Zener diode D3 was the culprit - 2S147A... It has been replaced by its full counterpart. KS147A.
For good accuracy, you can carry out a test with a multimeter, after the repair of the generator regulator relay is completely finished.
Voltage 13.05V. The control lamp shines brightly. Everything is fine.
Voltage 14.15V. The control lamp is already shining very dimly. The relay starts limiting the current.
Voltage 14.4V. The control lamp is completely extinguished. The relay has completely limited the current.
As you can see from this test, the relay after repair does an excellent job with its tasks, and the operating mode is just within the range 14 - 14.4V.
If the battery light comes on, then one of the possible reasons may be the voltage regulator relay. To make sure that it works, first it is worth checking how the regulator works. But in this case, repair is considered, more precisely, the replacement of brushes is performed using the example of the Lada Kalina relay. Although a similar procedure can be done on almost any regulator.
Which, of course, will be very useful if the new relay is not at hand, and the car is urgently needed on the go. In this case, there is simply no special alternative to repairing the voltage regulator relay with your own hands.
To change the brushes, you first need to unsolder the old, worn out ones, and solder the new ones.
