Voltage regulator 515176189 DIY repair

In detail: voltage regulator 515176189 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Ski-doo voltage regulator

Original number: 515176189

Ski-doo voltage regulator

Original number: 515176189

Suitable for the following snowmode models:

2006 - 2008 Ski-Doo Freestyle 300F / Freestyle Session 300F
2006 - 2009 Ski-Doo Skandic Tundra 300F (Electric start models)
2005 - 2006 Ski-Doo GSX380F
2005 - 2006 Ski-Doo GTX380F
2005 - 2008 Ski-Doo Expedition 550F / Expedition Sport 550F
2005 - 2009 Ski-Doo GSX550F
2005 - 2007/2009 Ski-Doo GSX550F
2005 Ski-Doo Summit 550F
2007 - 2009 Ski-Doo Freestyle Back Country 550F / Freestyle Session 550F / Freestyle Park 550F
2007 Ski-Doo MXZ 550F
2007/2009 Ski-Doo MXZ 550X
2008 - 2011 Ski-Doo Skandic 550F / Skandic SUV 550F / Skandic WT 550F / Skandic Tundra LT 550F / Skandic SWT 550F

515176189 Ski Doo Voltage Regulator

BRP (BOMBARDIER) SKI-DOO OEM - 515176189 - volt regulator - Snowmobile Voltage Regulator

• The price is for 1 piece
• Original new part
• Fits on many models of snowmobiles
• Also used on LYNX snowmobiles

Choose the right tuning, get the most out of it and enjoy new experiences.
Best regards, VladExtremeLife team.

BRP (Bombardier Recreational Products) is a Canadian company dating back to 1942 when Joseph-Armand Bombardier founded his business in the province of Quebec. Today BRP is the largest company, which employs about five and a half thousand people. BRP is a company with deep roots, traditions, the main priority of which is always innovation. BRP currently owns brands such as Ski-Doo and Lynx (snowmobiles), Can-Am (ATVs), Sea-Doo (jet skis), Evinrude outboards and Rotax engines. All BRP equipment is revered and dearly loved by fans of extreme sports, for example, ski-Doo snowmobiles are iconic and reference, especially in Canada, as a result of which they were included in the list of the greatest inventions of the country.

Video (click to play).

SKI-DOO a few words about yourself:
Since J.-A. Bombardier founded the company in 1942, our name was synonymous with quality and creativity. His pioneering spirit is a legacy that drives us to grow and explore new frontiers. Today in the Americas, Europe and the Asia-Pacific region, more than 7,600 people support the spirit in all of our vehicles and products.

At BRP, innovation and passion are at the heart of our commitment, our products and our brands. Be it our ship and Sea-Doo boats; our snowmobiles Ski-Doo and Lynx; our cards and Rotax engines; Whether our Can-Am ATVs or our Evinrude outboards, those values are brought to life through technology and design inspired by a unified and shared compelling mission: to bring consumers the most extraordinary experience.

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Buyer questions and answers

Item Diameter 00inch
Model Name 515175656 515175939 515176189
External Testing Certification ISO 9001
Material Type Aluminum
Wcp brand
Item Weight 0.5kg
Item Width 00inch
Special features universal
Item Height 00inch
is_customized Yes

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Full refund if product isn't received in 60 days

Once assembled, the simplest voltage regulator on one transistor was intended for a specific power supply and a specific consumer, of course it was not necessary to connect it anywhere else, but as always there comes a moment when we stop doing the right thing. The consequence of this is the hassle and thought of how to live and be further and the decision to restore what was created earlier or continue to create.

There was a stabilized switching power supply that gave an output voltage of 17 volts and a current of 500 milliamps.Required a periodic voltage change in the range of 11 - 13 volts. And the well-known single-transistor voltage regulator circuit coped with this perfectly. From myself, I added only an indication LED and a limiting resistor to it. By the way, the LED here is not only a "firefly" signaling the presence of an output voltage. With a properly selected value of the limiting resistor, even a small change in the output voltage is reflected in the brightness of the LED, which gives additional information about its increase or decrease. The output voltage could be varied from 1.3 to 16 volts.

KT829 - a powerful low-frequency silicon composite transistor, was installed on a powerful metal radiator and it seemed that, if necessary, it could withstand a heavy load, but there was a short circuit in the consumer's circuit and it burned out. The transistor has a high gain and is used in low-frequency amplifiers - you can really see its place there and not in voltage regulators.

On the left, removed electronic components, on the right prepared by him for replacement. The difference in quantity is two names, but in the quality of the schemes, the former and the one that it was decided to collect, it is incomparable. This begs the question - "Is it worth assembling a circuit with limited capabilities when there is a more advanced version" for the same money ", in the literal and figurative sense of this saying?"

The new circuit also has a three-pin e-mail. component (but this is no longer a transistor) constant and variable resistors, an LED with its own limiter. Added only two electrolytic capacitors. Typically, typical circuits indicate the minimum values of C1 and C2 (C1 = 0.1 μF and C2 = 1 μF) that are necessary for stable operation of the stabilizer. In practice, the capacitance values range from tens to hundreds of microfarads. Capacities should be located as close to the microcircuit as possible. For large capacities, the condition C1 >> C2 is mandatory. If the capacitance of the capacitor at the output exceeds the capacitance of the capacitor at the input, then a situation arises in which the output voltage exceeds the input, which leads to damage to the stabilizer microcircuit. To eliminate it, a protective diode VD1 is installed.

This scheme has completely different possibilities. Input voltage from 5 to 40 volts, output 1.2 - 37 volts. Yes, there is an input-output voltage drop of about 3.5 volts, but there are no roses without thorns. But the KR142EN12A microcircuit, called a linear adjustable voltage stabilizer, has good protection for exceeding the load current and short-term protection against short circuits at the output. Its operating temperature is up to + 70 degrees Celsius, it works with an external voltage divider. Output load current up to 1 A for continuous operation and 1.5 A for short-term operation. The maximum allowable power when operating without a heat sink is 1 W, if the microcircuit is installed on a radiator of sufficient size (100 cm2) then P max. = 10 W.

The process of the updated editing itself took no more time than the previous one. At the same time, not a simple voltage regulator was obtained, which is connected to a stabilized voltage power supply, the assembled circuit, when connected even to a network step-down transformer with a rectifier at the output, itself gives the necessary stabilized voltage. Naturally, the output voltage of the transformer must correspond to the permissible parameters of the input voltage of the KR142EN12A microcircuit. Instead, you can use the imported analogue of the integral stabilizer LM317T. author Babay iz barnaula.

The problems of "undercharging", as, in principle, and "overcharging" the battery, can be caused by many reasons, but the very first and most common on many cars (our VAZs are no exception here), as well as on many motorcycles, is the output of the generator relay-regulator from building. This device, in spite of its compactness, will save your battery and make its service life much longer.However, if they fail, it can simply kill the battery in a matter of weeks, so if you see white streaks, and also, the engine does not start after the night, it does not even “turn” the starter - it's time to check the relay regulator of your car, but here's how it is do it yourself, and today I will tell you in detail ...

THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE

Relay-regulator Is a device that regulates the current from the car generator, preventing the battery from recharging, protecting it from overcharging, which is detrimental to the battery. Thus, this device greatly extends the battery life.

In fact, this is just a voltage regulator that prevents the voltage from the generator from exceeding the threshold of 14.5 Volts, it is a very accurate device and is mandatory for all types of cars. However, it can be distinguished into two types.

To exaggerate, there are only two types, but each works according to the same principle, namely, "cuts" or increases the voltage to the desired level.

Combined with a brush assembly. It is usually mounted on the generator itself, in the case where the brushes are located, there is also a relay-regulator.

Separate. It is usually mounted on the body of the car, the wires go from the generator to it, and only then to the battery.

The housings are non-separable and tight and of a different type (often filled with sealants or special adhesives), that is, they are not repaired. To be honest, they are quite cheap, especially for our VAZs, so it's easier to buy a new one than to pick an old one.

These are the most common types, of course, before there were so-called combined with terminals, but they did not take root, because the device is not very convenient, so I will not talk about them.

If your relay is "covered" there is a constant recharge, then it is worth changing it, but first you need to make sure that it is in it. Now there are only two methods of checking: - without removing it on the car itself, and checking an already removed relay. Let's look at both options.

Indirect signs

If your "regulator" is out of order, you will notice it very quickly, especially if it is winter and frost outside. The fact is that there will be either "undercharge" or battery recharge. Undercharged - you simply do not start your car - you come to the parking lot, insert the key, and the car barely turns the engine, or does not start at all, sometimes even the lights go out.

When overcharged - almost the same thing will happen, only the reason will be the boiling off of the electrolyte from the battery cans. Indirectly, it can be determined by the rapid decrease in electrolyte in the banks, and white bloom on the battery on top, as well as on parts of the body under it. It is worth considering and checking the regulator relay.

However, this is not our method, we need to make sure more precisely.

The correct method

To do this, we will use our voltmeter, we need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running. To begin with, I want to note that with the engine not running normal voltage should be within 12.7V, perhaps a little less, but if you already have 12V, then the battery needs to be recharged! Or look for reasons for undercharging.

We start the engine
We put multimeter for a value up to 20 Volts

We connect the probes to the terminals
If the voltage is approximately in the range of 13.2 - 14V, this is normal.
We increase the speed (say, up to 2000 - 2500), the voltage will start to rise, from about 13.6 to 14.2 V, this is also normal.
Then we try at maximum speed (more than 3500), the voltage should be from 14 to 14.5V, but not more!

If you have deviations, up or down, namely, at any speed, the voltage remained at 12.7V, or even dropped to 12V, then this indicates a malfunction of the relay-regulator.

Also, if the voltage is higher than 14.5V, for example - 15-16V, again the relay-regulator is faulty, you need to change it.

To be completely honest, the failure is not always indicated only by the relay, often the generator itself fails. If the "regulator" is located separately, then you need to change it first, if nothing has changed, remove the generator and completely check the system.If the brush assembly is combined with the relay, then the generator must be removed without fail!

First, we will check the combined circuit of the relay-regulator together with the brush assembly. These are now installed on many foreign cars, and by the way, on many domestic cars (they are often labeled Ya212A).

As you understand here, it is imperative to remove the generator and disassemble it, since this combined unit is attached at the back next to the generator shaft, along which these brushes go. For this:

We are looking for a special "window" on the back of the generator, where the brushes are immersed.
We unscrew the fastening bolt.
We remove the brush assembly.
We clean it - as a rule, it will be in graphite dust, brushes are made of graphite, with the use of special coal.

Then we need to check it, but for this we assemble a certain circuit, it is advisable to use a power supply with a regulated load or a charger. We also need to take an ordinary 12V light bulb from a car, for example, from "dimensions", we will need wires to assemble the entire system.

We may need a battery, because many chargers do not work without it. But already from the wire from the battery, we connect the relay-regulator, to the brushes of which we connect a 12V light bulb, this can be done with small crocodiles, the main thing is not to break the graphite elements. A small diagram for understanding.

If you connect everything in a calm state, then the light will just light up and stay on, this is normal, since the brush assembly is a conductor of electricity from the shaft. Let me remind you in a calm state, the voltage on the brushes will be about 12.7V.

Now we need to raise the voltage on the charger, up to 14.5 V, the lamp will be on, but when this threshold is reached, it should go out! That is, 14.5 V is a kind of "cut-off" of further voltage growth! If you lower the value, then the lamp should light up again. Then your relay-regulator is working, it has passed the test.

If the voltage reaches 15-16V, and the light is on, this means the relay is out of order, it needs to be replaced! It does not provide a "cut-off" and will help to overcharge the battery. Here's a simple check. Now a small video on the topic.

Similarly, you can check a new type of regulator, that is, a separate one, here the check process is much easier. For example, let's take a model of the Ya112B type, they were installed on many domestic cars before (VAZ).

This is a separate element, so we just unscrew it from the body (sometimes from the generator cover) and attach it to our stand, once again I want to remind you that it is desirable to have a 12V power supply, then the verification process is much easier. If not, use a charger (with adjustment modes) and connect according to the lower diagram.

The check is the same, we increase the voltage to 14.5 V, the lamp should go out, if not, or it turns off when the voltage is much higher, then the relay is out of order and needs to be replaced.

This is a very old type of relay, it was installed even on "kopecks", as well as on many rear-wheel drive cars. It was also always separately attached to the body, but the check here is slightly different in terms of contacts.

If you take their markings, then there are only two of them - "67" and "15". The first contact "67" is a minus as well as the relay case itself, but "15" is a plus. The principle of operation is the same, we connect our charger - we start testing, we increase the voltage to 14.5V, then we look at the lamp. If disconnected well, no - bad, replacement.

There is another "life hack" - if you connect a light bulb, bypassing the regulator relay to the wires that went to pins 15 and 67, then remove the wire from the positive terminal of the battery - if the motor has not stalled, then the generator is "alive".

Often, if the culprit for charging problems may not be the regulator itself, but its terminals, from time to time, they, like many on the car, oxidize - which prevents the generator from working normally and recharging our battery, so first, before changing this unit, try to clean it. remove oxides and other deposits.By the way, this also applies to the battery terminals, they need to be cleaned and protected at least once a season.

Therefore, first of all, if the multimeter gives you - 11 or slightly below 12V at the terminals of the machine, try first to clean the terminals and contacts, then measure again. It is possible that the reason is in them.

This concludes the article, I think it was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

Date: 23.09.2015 // 0 Comments

Before parsing and DIY generator regulator relay repair, you need to make sure that the relay is really out of order. To do this, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the materials on how to check the generator regulator relay. If, after checking, the malfunction is confirmed, you can safely proceed to disassembling and diagnosing the components.

Disassemble the relay regulator VAZ it is not difficult at all, for this you need to remove the plastic case cover, which is fastened with latches. Next, you need to unscrew the two screws holding the transistor and unsolder the terminals from the terminals 67 and 15.

Important! When removing the board, you must follow the insulating substrate of the transistor and try not to lose it. Without it, you cannot turn on the relay into operation..

The board and the location on it of the radio elements of the old samples of the regulator relay are slightly different from the new ones, but the circuit itself has not changed.

Checking the elements must begin depending on the symptomatology of the malfunction.

If the relay somehow works, overestimates or underestimates the voltage, then most likely the transistors are intact. They can be checked last. The first to check the rating of the resistors R1-R3 and the zener diode with a diode D1; D4.

Attention! The value of the resistor R3 may differ from that indicated in the diagram. On the relay under test, the resistance R3 was 4.7 kOhm. It must be identified by color or other markings and manually checked for resistance

If the relay does not turn on at all, we call the fuse F1, diodes D2; D3 and all the transistors in the first place. When checking transistors, you must not forget to solder them from the circuit.

For clarity and convenience, all components from the diagram are marked on the board. Often, the entire board is covered with a layer of protective varnish, this must be taken into account and washed off at the points where the probes are connected.

In this case, the Zener diode D3 was the culprit - 2S147A... It has been replaced by its full counterpart. KS147A.

For good accuracy, you can carry out a test with a multimeter, after the repair of the generator regulator relay is completely finished.

Voltage 13.05V. The control lamp shines brightly. Everything is fine.

Voltage 14.15V. The control lamp is already shining very dimly. The relay starts limiting the current.

Voltage 14.4V. The control lamp is completely extinguished. The relay has completely limited the current.

As you can see from this test, the relay after repair does an excellent job with its tasks, and the operating mode is just within the range 14 - 14.4V.

If the battery light comes on, then one of the possible reasons may be the voltage regulator relay. To make sure that it works, first it is worth checking how the regulator works. But in this case, repair is considered, more precisely, the replacement of brushes is performed using the example of the Lada Kalina relay. Although a similar procedure can be done on almost any regulator.

Which, of course, will be very useful if the new relay is not at hand, and the car is urgently needed on the go. In this case, there is simply no special alternative to repairing the voltage regulator relay with your own hands.

To change the brushes, you first need to unsolder the old, worn out ones, and solder the new ones.

My charge above 14.1 does not rise, but on the previous gene it was 14.8. He's dead, brushes and a regulator in the compartment. I bought a used one. The voltage drop is also up to 10.8 when you turn the steering wheel. Maybe it's okay.Sent from my LT18i using TapatalkMy charge above 14.1 does not rise, but on the previous gene it was 14.8. He's dead, brushes and a regulator in the compartment. I bought a used one. The voltage drop is also up to 10.8 when you turn the steering wheel. Maybe it's okay.Sent from my LT18i using TapatalkHow to find the cause of the voltage drop?on generators for sawdust, this is the same part, it costs about 4000 rubles? the point was to buy a used generator and now repair it)I bought a generator because I had to go to work the next day. 20km one way however. I was tormented even by replacing it until ten in the evening (At that moment I did not know where to send)astra h mk5 z17dth 2004 164000 miles, cosmo.Hello everyone!
I studied all 27 pages, but no one wrote to me with a similar problem)Lost in the situation on the generator.Alternator Bosch 120Amp 13156054
2008 135t.km.On a cold start - there is no battery charging (voltage 12.8), immediately turn off / start the voltage 14.4, on a hot one always 14.4
I measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
I cleaned all the terminals, wires the generator -> battery (+/-) new ones.Where to look? Relay regulator / diode bridge / winding? Image - Voltage regulator 515176189 DIY repair

good day
Help me figure out what the jamb can be
In general, in the fall, I changed my native gene to the restored Delta.
The symptoms were then such that sometimes (especially as it warmed up) the charging voltage began to drop, the load was poorly held, but the control lamp never came on.
First (back in the summer) I tried to replace the regulator on my own gene with a new Bosch (although the ring on my regulator was in excellent condition, I sinned for an internal problem in the regulator).
In general, with the replacement of the regulator, then absolutely nothing changed, the gene worked just as unimportantly, but the control lamp did not light up.
I thought that the problem might be in the power part of the genes (windings, diode bridge or their junction (there is crimping without soldering)) and decided to change the gene.

When replacing genes, the regulator decided to take from the old genes (i.e. relatively recently changed Bosch). Because there was a Chinese regulator on the new gene.
How the new gene works makes me basically outdated, the symptoms of undervoltage have disappeared. But a new bug appeared (almost immediately, i.e. from autumn to the present time it is present).
When the engine is started, sometimes the gene does not turn on, the control lamp comes on. The battery voltage gradually decreases.
It helps either to drown / start (then the gene starts), or to gasp - it is enough to gasp for half a second and the gene starts, after another 3 seconds the lamp goes out. After that, all the rules.

So far, I could not identify the exact more detailed conditions for the manifestation of the bug. I think that the control lamp does not light up immediately (even if the gene does not start, the ECU turns on the lamp under the condition of a voltage drop below the threshold for a certain time). Therefore, when I turn on a hot one or turn it on from a key, I may simply not notice the problem, because almost immediately I start moving (therefore I press on the gas and the gene starts, even if it did not start initially).
The bug appears during startup (but not always). Soon after the autostart, the signaling sends an SMS about the voltage drop, you have to either run faster to the car in order to gas until the battery has landed, or turn it off from the phone. Sometimes I run the risk of starting it up again from the phone and the gene is started the second time.

I think that since the rest of the gene is working normally, then there are no problems with the power section and the problem may be in the regulator or the power-on signal from the ECU. On the other hand, this regulator is practically new and previously worked without similar symptoms on an old generator. Any ideas?

Please tell me which one generator for Astra H 1.8 2010?
By Elcats (original catalog) by VIN beats Opel 62 04 271 12V 120A. The original is issued by GM 93190829.
On the forum in the topics I found out that the original is GM 93174469 and an analog Opel 62 04 123.
According to applicability, everyone goes to my 1.8

P.S. I just once made it into history once, that one clutch was beating on the VIN (they even checked it at the service), and when they disassembled it turned out to be different - although I have a car from scratch. warned that they say I have a model at the junction and put parts from different models (for me it sounds like nonsense). It's just that the issue price here is 30-50 rubles. I really do not want to buy the wrong thing.

I have already talked about the device of electric current generators, which are arranged similarly to synchronous motors, only differ from them in the collector, therefore the process of troubleshooting and repairing electric current generators is in many ways similar to them.

In this article I will tell you in detail using the example of a do-it-yourself repair of an automobile generator, because it is it that most people most often encounter with repair. The principle of repairing a generator with your own hands as part of a power plant will be similar. Only a voltage rectifier will not be built into its case and the output voltage regulation will work differently.

Cars use a three-phase generator alternating current, but as is known in the on-board network, a constant voltage of 12 volts. To obtain direct current, a rectifier consisting of 6 diodes is used, and a voltage regulator is provided to keep the voltage of 12 volts within acceptable limits.

The generator is arranged quite simply. Voltage is applied to the rotor through graphite brushes and slip rings to excite it. It is driven by a pulley through a belt drive. The rotor rotates in bearings. Electric voltage is generated in the stator windings and converted into a constant voltage using six power semiconductor diodes, three of which are connected to the positive terminal of the generator, and the other three to the negative terminal and "vehicle ground".

If on the dashboard of the car after starting it does not go out control lamp, this indicates that the generator does not work and does not give current. But sometimes the cause of the alarm can be poor contact of the connector, wires, or a malfunction of the relay.
Battery discharge. But keep in mind that sometimes the battery is discharged and does not have time to be charged by a working generator when moving over short distances and with the light and electrical devices of the car turned on as much as possible.
Generator at engine speed 2000-2500 gives a voltage below the permissible limit of 13.2 Volts.
If the generator generates a voltage above the permissible limit of 14-14.8 Volts (depending on the model), this indicates a faulty voltage regulator, which leads to a disastrous overcharge for the battery.

Before removing the generator for repair, check:

Tensioning the drive belt and rotating the pulley, tightening its nut.
Connection to the car body of the battery and generator.
The integrity of the fuses.
Bearing play. It is checked in the same way as for electric motors according to this instruction.

Before removing and disassembling power unit, if there is generator noise during operation, try disconnecting the wires. If the noise has disappeared, then this indicates a short circuit or interturn short circuit of the stator windings or a short circuit to ground. Repair is not advisable, replacing the generator with a new one will be cheaper. If the noise persists, this indicates bearing wear. They need to be replaced.
Most often worn brushes are the cause of the malfunction... Check and replace them.
Poor contact between brushes and slip rings. Check if the spring is not pressing well. It can be stretched or replaced if necessary. Inspect slip rings for scorching or dirt. Use the finest sandpaper for cleaning and a rag for dirt. If the slip ring is severely worn, the rotor must be replaced.
Damage to the rotor winding can be checked with a multimeter. The windings should ring among themselves for a short circuit or show a small resistance. If the windings are intact, then it is necessary to ring for the lack of electrical connection between them and the case. A defective rotor cannot be repaired and must be replaced.
Damage to the stator winding are checked in the same way. The multimeter should show a short circuit or very small resistance between the terminals. And there should be no electrical contact between the winding and the generator case. The defective stator must be replaced.
Check all diodes in the rectifier. They must conduct electric current only in one direction, in the opposite direction (we swap the positive and negative probes) - the resistance is large enough. In the example in the picture, it is necessary to check each diode between points numbered 1 and number 2.

Recommend additionally will get acquainted with the instructions for repairing synchronous electric motors with their own hands, because they carry out troubleshooting in almost the same way as for generators.

Also, when upgrading, I wanted to add a function to turn off the generator when starting the engine. That is, normally, when the starter is running, the generator tries to generate, while consuming up to 6 amperes of current and braking the crankshaft. When the generator is turned off, we will get at least 10% increase in the speed of rotation of the crankshaft by the starter. The main effect of this should be in the winter, when the battery is running at the edge of its capacity.

So, when developing a voltage regulator, the following factors must be taken into account:

Wide operating temperature range from -40 to +80,
Resistance to voltage surges up to 60-80 Volts,
Resistance to weathering,
Vibration resistance,
Disable when starting the engine,
Low voltage drop,
Lack of mechanical elements.

One of the alternative voltage regulator circuits is as follows:

The original voltage regulator circuit looks like this:

As a result, I developed my own scheme:

I cut out the boards. It's more comfortable for me. Here is the board below:

Studied the nomenclature of the modern electronic industry, opted for the IRFP3206. Its characteristics are: channel resistance of 3 milliohms, keeps the same 20 Volts at the gate and 60 Volts at the source. Minus 2 is larger and more expensive. It costs 160 rubles, I took a new regulator for 120 rubles 🙂:

For dessert, video - charging starts to go only after I release the key. And the maximum charging current is less than 50Amps:

Voltage regulator or as it is also called a relay-regulator. This part of electrical equipment is very important and it is on it that the durability of the battery and other electrical appliances depends. The relay performs the function of a voltage stabilizer at the level that the generator gives out, then this voltage goes to all scooter devices that use it.

If the voltage regulator was faulty or missing on the scooter, then the voltage would jump and all the devices would quickly burn out. The regulator keeps the voltage within certain norms, preventing it from rising and falling too much, usually within the range of 12-14.5 volts. For example, incandescent lamps suffer significantly even from a voltage increase of 2 volts.

The generator can supply 35 volts, and the regulator drops this voltage to 12 volts. To charge the scooter battery, you need direct current, it is the regulator that turns the alternating current into direct current. Therefore, the state of the scooter voltage regulator must be watched very carefully so as not to cause trouble.
One of the ways to understand that the relay-regulator is out of order is that the bulbs quickly burn out. They themselves have a fairly high resource and durability, but at the same time they are sensitive to voltage drops.
By the way, when you start the scooter from the starter, there is a strong voltage surge that can also harm, but the regulator on the scooter again corrects this situation.

Different scooter manufacturers put different relay regulators, since each model needs an individual one. Depending on the voltage regulator circuit, the connectors may also differ.

The voltage regulator relay on the Chinese scooter differs from the Japanese one even in the number of terminals. So, in Chinese there are 5 (dad), and in Japanese there are only 4.

But the general principle of operation of the voltage regulator is almost the same in all and performs the role of switching voltage using a powerful thyristor, turning on and off the voltage from the generator.

Regulator circuit on a Japanese scooter:

To check, you need to stock up on a multimeter that has a voltmeter function. It is needed to measure the voltage at the output of the voltage regulator.

To measure the voltage, you first need to get to your destination. To do this, the front cover must be removed. As a rule, it is screwed on with several nuts and rivets (for example, on a Honda dio there are 3 nuts and 4 rivets). We remove the fairing carefully, it is easy to damage it. There we need to find a small box with 4 exits (in some scooters there are 5 exits). Outputs are colored green, red, yellow and white.

In order to measure the voltage, the scooter must first stabilize in operation, that is, the idle speed must be stable. You can put it on the bandwagon, wind it up and wait for it to stabilize. If the scooter won't start, or won't idle, then read the article: The scooter won't idle. If all is well, then you need to measure the voltage between the red and green wires. We set our measuring device to 20V, DC voltage measurement mode.If the voltage is within 14.6 - 14.8 then this normal voltage of the relay-regulator... If the regulator is faulty, then this value can fluctuate even by 5V or more in any direction. If the value is less than 14.5V, or exceeds 15V, then the regulator is not working properly.

Now you need to check the voltage supplied to the lighting. Since an alternating voltage is supplied there, we also put our multimeter to measure an alternating voltage of 20V. To measure the voltage supplied to the lighting, you need to measure it between the green and yellow wires. As a rule, the norm for lighting is voltage in 12 volts, most incandescent bulbs are designed for this voltage. + - 0.5 volts allowed. Do not forget that the scooter runs at idle and if you add revolutions, the voltage will rise, but it is not permissible even for the voltage on the regulator to rise to 13+ volts. With a faulty regulator, the voltage may rise higher. For example, up to 15-16V, but even 13 volts of voltage is harmful for incandescent bulbs. The regulator is clearly defective. Especially considering that this is at idle speed of the engine.

If you see that the voltage regulator is not working properly, then you need to urgently replace it. Otherwise, very soon other devices will be added to it that simply could not withstand the high voltage.

A 4t scooter voltage regulator relay can be bought for 500 rubles.

If you do not understand what and how to check, or if you have additional questions, you can ask them in the comments or find the answer in the video:

The relay-regulator can be made by hand, this requires a little knowledge and a scooter voltage regulator circuit. We will make a voltage regulator for a Chinese scooter with our own hands. The cheapest option is to use a shunt voltage regulator. The nuance is that for proper operation, you need to disassemble the generator and bring out the wire from the ground with a separate wire.It was decided to make a voltage regulator with our own hands for the reason that the Chinese counterparts are so lousy that there are simply no words here. We look at the photo of the Chinese voltage regulator circuit: Image - Voltage regulator 515176189 DIY repair

We will assemble a single-phase generator according to this scheme:

In order to make a relay regulator, you must first disassemble the generator and remove the stator from the engine. Now we see the following picture:

The photo shows the mass that needs to be unsoldered, and we need to solder a separate wire to the winding to it. After which it must be taken out. It is this wire that will be one end of the winding. The other end is a white wire.

After that, carefully assemble the generator in the reverse order. Why was it all done ?! We now have 2 wires coming out of the generator, which we will use (all wires 3) All the changes that have occurred can be seen in the photo below:

The connection of the voltage regulator is shown in this scooter voltage regulator diagram:

OK it's all over Now. Our DIY scooter voltage regulator is almost complete. Now you need to connect the yellow wire from our old relay-regulator to the "+" terminal of the scooter battery.

After all the work done, we got constant stress on our board. networks.

Another homemade scooter voltage regulator in the video:

Video (click to play).