DIY repair of 124 motors

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of 124 motors from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

One of our old customers changed the car for a VAZ 21124 (1.6 liter engine, 16 valve). The car is not new, the mileage on the odometer is 85 thousand km. After some time, problems appeared - immediately large quantities of antifreeze left the cooling system, the expansion tank was inflated, the client had to constantly top up the antifreeze. After a trip to the intercity, the car was brought in for repairs - the oil pressure lamp blinks, hydraulic lifters knock. After inspecting the car, a verdict was delivered - the mileage was twisted, but the car was in good condition. Compression measurement showed a difference in cylinders up to 2 atmospheres. We will disassemble the engine, search for and eliminate the causes of the problems.

We remove the attachments, then the valve cover and the camshaft bed. The hydraulic lifters turned a little blue from oil starvation, but the client was lucky - the camshaft necks and beds in the cylinder head are in good condition - here expensive repairs can be avoided.

We remove the cylinder head - this is the reason for the escaping antifreeze - a burned-out gasket. Judging by the rust, the previous owner did not want to repair the engine and filled in water, so he sold the car. The plane of the head requires milling.

The cylinders are still in very good condition, the factory hon is visible. Water entered the second cylinder through the gasket, and traces of rust are visible on the surface of the cylinder. However, the water here has not yet had time to cause wear on the surface of the cylinder - if the client had traveled on the water for a longer time, there would have been no trace of honing.

The catalyst is sentenced to be replaced - the gas joint studs have stuck tightly, but the main reason for the replacement is that the insides of the catalyst are sintered and crumbled.

Video (click to play).

We dismantle the cylinder block from the car - without its complex bulkhead and troubleshooting - further assembly and starting of the engine will be like a tape measure.

We completely disassemble the block. All crankshaft journals are measured with a micrometer - journals without wear, at the upper tolerance limit. But the inserts, especially the root ones on the last neck, have traces of oil starvation. A little more - and the insert could turn. The seating plane of the block, which has extensive areas of corrosion, was milled.

Since there was no talk of tuning the engine (the client asked for a standard overhaul), they did not install the ShPG from Priora. Since the cylinders are in good condition, they limited themselves to replacing the pistons (group B was in the engine), they put group C. The connecting rods remained native, 2110. The piston rings were replaced with type-setting ones, Kolbenschmidt. Such a replacement will still add a few horsepower to the motor, by reducing mechanical friction losses. All parts were washed. The oil pump was opened and the gears, body and parts of the pressure reducing valve were carefully examined - no defects were found. The crankshaft liners and persistent half rings were replaced with new ones, the crankshaft remained in the nominal size.
Updated all oil seals and gaskets. They installed a new pump - the factory one. The flywheel is still in excellent condition, the clutch is also - the previous owner changed it to Kraft. We limited ourselves to replacing the release bearing with a VAZ one (the Kraft release bearing has a weak point - a plastic inner sleeve, which often crumbles).

It's time to take care of the head. It was completely disassembled by drying the valve. The mating plane has suffered from water and rust, traces of the gasket burnout are visible.

Outlet guides are worn out - valves are loose. The valves themselves are in good condition - we grind the working chamfers on a special machine, thus the client saves on new valves. We repress the exhaust bushings with new ones. The valve stem seals have turned into croutons, they are also replaced with new ones - GOETZE.The head is washed, the plane is milled, the chamfers of the saddles are machined on the AZ VV80 machine - the cutter creates three chamfers at the same time, after which lapping is not required. The valves simply dry out.

We update the timing belt and rollers - put the kit PowerGrip (GATES)... We put the cylinder head gasket from the Priora. Oil filter - MANN. The catalyst is replaced with a 4-1 stainless steel "spider". It is put in place. It was not possible to find an intermediate pipe from the catalyst to the resonator on sale - it was necessary to cut off the sticky catalyst pins and use the old pipe. The gas joint (with a new gasket) is connected with hardened bolts with copper nuts and grovers. We also update the round graphite ring in the next gas joint, along with bolts and springs.

We glue the camshaft bed and the valve cover on the anaerobic sealant Loctite (silicone sealants cannot be used!), Update the candles - install NGK. New hydraulic pushers were supplied - INA. We fill in oil with Lukoil Lux 10W40.

So, everything is assembled, we start the engine. The pressure lamp goes out, the wetsuits fill with oil and die down. The motor runs smoothly.

After an hour of idling, the car is handed over to the client.

The results of the overhaul are summarized in standard estimates, which can be found in the Price List section.

Posted on August 27, 2012
The author of the article, photo-video materials:

Years of release - (2004 - present)
Cylinder block material - cast iron
Power system - injector
Type - in-line
Number of cylinders - 4
Valves per cylinder - 4
Piston stroke - 75.6mm
Cylinder diameter - 82mm
Compression ratio - 10.3
The volume of the VAZ 21124 engine is 1599 cc.
Engine power 21124 - 89 HP / 5000 rpm
Torque - 131 Nm / 3700 rpm
Fuel - AI95
Fuel consumption - city 8.9 liters. | track 6.4 liters. | mixed 7.5 l / 100 km
Oil consumption - 50 g / 1000 km
Engine 21124 oil:
5W-30
5W-40
10W-40
15W40
How much oil is in the VAZ 21124 engine: 3.5 liters.
When replacing, pour 3.2 liters.

Engine resource 21124:
1. According to the plant - 150 thousand km
2. In practice - 200-250 thousand km

TUNING
Potential - 400+ HP
Without loss of resource - up to 120 hp.

It makes no sense to consider the chip tuning of the 124 engine, it will not make any tangible changes on a standard car, the firmware is needed, for a more thorough and correct tuning, after the engine has been revised, we will start with it. The easiest and most standard way to increase the power of the 21124 engine is to replace the camshafts with Stolnikov 8.9 280 or Nuzhdin 8.85, put a 4-2-1 straight-through exhaust, a 54-56 mm receiver and a damper, this will give us a total of more than 120 hp. and for more efficient operation of the motor, we change the piston to a lightweight prior's one. This will further increase power and reduce fuel consumption.
In the case when these figures are not enough, it is recommended to modify the cylinder head and put evil wide-phase shafts, which will give 150+ hp at the output.

Alternatively, and to obtain a similar power over the entire range, a compressor must be installed. The most common compressor for VAZ is a St. Petersburg whale based on PC-23, but the network is full of video on compressors both on the 8 valve and on the shesnar, in one of the most famous videos, the owner of the motor on the compressor explains all the nuances of the installation and what is required for the successful implementation of the project using the example of an eight-valve motor. This compressor can be installed on a 16 valve engine.

It is possible to increase power without using a turbine up to 200+ hp, using 4 throttle inlets, but the most optimal, suitable for urban use, options are the above methods.

To increase the stability of the engine and the response of the gas pedal, 4 chokes are installed. The bottom line is that each cylinder receives its own throttle valve and due to this, resonant air vibrations between the cylinders disappear. We have a more stable motor operation from the bottom to the top. The most popular method is the installation of a 4-throttle intake from Toyota Levin on a VAZ. It is necessary to purchase: the unit itself, make an adapter manifold and pipes, in addition to this, you need a zero filter, injectors, a DBP (absolute pressure sensor), a fuel pressure regulator and firmware.
There are also ready-made sets of 4 throttle inlets on sale, which are quite suitable for use.
Taking into account the prohibitive speed, it is recommended to replace the heavy piston engine of the 124th engine with a light Priorovskaya one, wide-phase shafts (at least 280), a modified cylinder head, exhaust spider 4-2-1 on 51 pipes or more.
For more information on chokes, see the article on tuning the 2112 engine.
With the correct configuration, the 124th engine produces about 180-200 hp. The disadvantages include a reduction in the engine resource and this is not surprising, because the engines on the pipes rotate more than 8000-9000 or more rpm. So you cannot avoid permanent breakdowns and repairs.

Inflating your motor is a dream of, probably, any owner of a car with a 124 engine, but how to do it correctly and how to drive it later is described HERE, at the very bottom, all these principles are applicable to the 124 engine.

The VAZ 21124 16 valve engine appeared in 2004, through the reconstruction and improvement of the 2112 engine and was mounted on cars produced by the AVTOVAZ concern, models 2111, 2112, 2111.

The updated internal combustion engine received an increased displacement - 1.6 liters. The increased volume of the VAZ 21124 engine was achieved by increasing the distance between the axles of the main and connecting rod journals of the crankshaft by 7.3 mm (it was 30.5 mm, now 37.8 mm). Moreover, the increase in volume occurred without changing the diameter of the cylinders, it remained the same - 82 mm.

Thus, the designers' intention was achieved - bringing the environmental friendliness characteristics to the European level. Let's consider its description in more detail.

The main engine part - the cylinder block (catalog number 11193-1002011), also differs in size from its predecessor. It is factory-painted blue. Its height, the distance from the crankshaft axis to the upper plane, began to be 197.1 mm, against 194.8 mm on the 2112 model.

The dimensions of the holes for the bolts of the block head have been changed, they are with a hoist with a M10 × 1.25 thread. The main bearing supports on the 124th motor, from the second to the fifth, are equipped with channels designed to supply oil, cooling the piston during operation.

The crankshaft is installed the same as on models 21126 and 11194, with the marking 11183 cast on the sixth counterweight. Due to the crank radius of 37.8 mm, the piston stroke was 75.6 mm. A toothed pulley is installed on the shaft for the timing belt drive. The belt is 25.4 mm wide and has 136 teeth, parabolic shape. The resource of the belt is 45,000 km of run.

The pulley is designed to drive ancillary units using a V-belt. Belts of three types are used, differing in length, depending on the equipment:

If the drive is only for the generator - the belt length is 742 mm.

In the presence of a power steering - 1115 mm.

In the presence of power steering and air conditioning 1125 mm.

The pulley is designed in such a way that it acts as a damper, reducing the torsional loads acting on the shaft. Another function is to determine the position of the crankshaft using a sensor and a gear wheel mounted in the damper.

The improvement has affected the pistons. Their bottoms are made with 5.53 mm deep valve recesses to avoid the valves hitting the piston crown when the timing belt breaks.

On previous VAZ 16v models without recesses or with recesses of shallow depth, in such a situation, there was a risk of bending the valve, which led to costly repairs. So, fears and frequently asked questions - is the valve bending on this engine, removed.

Oil scraper and compression rings are available in steel or cast iron. The connection of the pistons and connecting rods is carried out using floating pins, 22 mm in diameter, 60.5 mm in length, with fixing by circlips. Pins and connecting rods are borrowed from the VAZ 2110 modification.

The head of the block for a 16-valve LADA 21124 engine has an enlarged area for joining the intake manifold flange. Both camshafts, for the exhaust and intake valves, as well as the valves themselves, springs, hydraulic lifters are also preserved from the previous engine modification.

In order to avoid confusion, the shafts are marked with a digital code.If it ends at 14, then this is the exhaust valve shaft, if at 15, then this is the intake shaft.

Another difference is that on the intake shaft, there is an untreated strip, next to the first pusher. By adding hydraulic lifters to the design, the manufacturer avoided the need to produce service valves in terms of regulation. However, they are very sensitive to the cleanliness and quality of the lubricant. Poor-quality oil will quickly disable parts and must be replaced; such a repair of the VAZ 124 is not provided.

The spring-valve group is similar to model 2112. Valves with one spring and rods with a diameter of 7 mm (on eight-valve heads, their diameter is 8 mm). The camshafts are equipped with toothed pulleys with marks for setting the valve timing. Compared to model 2112, the marks are offset from each other by 2 °.

Just like the shafts, the pulleys have differences in design and markings - on the inlet, a bar is welded on the back side, it is absent on the outlet. Both pulleys have circle marks on the hub.

The correct tension of the belt is carried out by means of supporting and tensioning rollers with flanges (to exclude the possibility of slipping).

The cylinder head gasket is made from asbestos-free material. The holes for the cylinders are made with a metal edging.

The intake manifold is integrated with the receiver and is made of plastic.

For the first time in cars of the VAZ 2110 family, a catalytic converter combined with an exhaust manifold was installed. Depending on what EURO 4 or 5 requirements the 124 motor is intended for, a different collector type is set.

The design of the fuel rail was updated, it began to be produced from stainless steel. The drain line was removed from the fuel system, instead of it, a bypass valve was installed on the pump to relieve excess pressure. To supply fuel directly to the cylinders, injectors manufactured by Bosch and Siemens were used.

Ignition coils were installed on candles, each candle has an individual coil, with additional fixation to the valve cover. With this method, high-voltage wires were no longer needed, and ignition control was carried out by Bosch M7.9.7 or Russian January 7.2 control units, intended for EURO-4 and 3.

Simple firmware or chip tuning on 124 engines, especially specifications will not change. For a noticeable increase in power, it is necessary to refine the engine.

The most common malfunction that owners of a VAZ 2110 face is when the engine is troit 21124. This is expressed in unstable engine operation, interruptions in operation, increased vibration, noise and gasoline consumption. What could be the reasons for this unpleasant phenomenon and what is the repair of the VAZ 21124 engine to be done.

If the engine is troit on any VAZ 2110 car, then, firstly, you need to find out the reason, diagnose the ignition, fuel supply system, gas distribution mechanism, electronics and mechanical parts (pistons and crankshaft) and repair the VAZ 124, even if you do it yourself ...

The engine 124 does not cause any other special problems. Previously, there was a problem with the impact of the valves on the piston and the bending of the valves and the subsequent need to repair the VAZ of previous modifications. But, the 124th engine is relieved of this problem, due to the recesses in the piston crown.

Only an experienced mechanic can determine the need for overhaul for the engine. If a water hammer or obvious mechanical damage has occurred, then everything is obvious. But in case of wear, diagnostics will be required. The first sign of such wear is overestimated oil consumption and increased exhaust smoke. These are clear signs of the need to check the compression in the cylinders - the degree of compression of the working mixture in the combustion chamber.
In the process of checking the condition of the motor, a special device is used - a compression meter. Also, a professional mechanic uses a special model of a stethoscope. The compressor is inserted into the plug hole, the ignition module is turned off and the starter turns on each cylinder several times until the maximum value is obtained. The normal value is from 8.5 MPa.

With a stethoscope, the master by ear determines the development of the crankshaft, liners and piston fingers. Based on the data received, he will issue a verdict on the need for an overhaul of the engine.
Overhaul of the engine affects almost all engine components. Here is a list of engine overhaul parts:

repair half rings;

7 large and 5 small. clamps;

set of spark plugs;

vacuum hose;

main and connecting rod bearings p 1 set;

a set of pistons and fingers;

set of rings;

a complete set of valves;

valve guide kit;

valve seals (valve stem seals) for all valves;

engine oil seals 3 pieces;

gaskets 3 pcs. (block head, pallet and valve cover);

oil filter;

6 liters of mineral oil for the engine (m6);

gear oil for the check point (4 l.);

for valve cover 2 rubber grommets;

set of block head bolts;

a complete set of paper spacers;

oil pump with intake;

10 liters of antifreeze;

air filter;

timing belt;

generator belt;

breather pipe;

special clamp for the muffler.

The list of spare parts is quite long, but it directly depends on the amount of future work. At the cost of spare parts, you can never say something unequivocally. It all depends on the manufacturer, and on the shopping center or auto shop.

This amount of work on the overhaul of the engine requires so many spare parts:

removing the engine;

engine wash;

disassembly of the engine;

flaw detection of engine parts;

repair of the cylinder head;

boring and honing of the cylinder block;

replacement of oil pump drive shaft liners;

crankshaft grinding;

crankshaft polishing;

removing and installing plugs, cleaning the crankshaft channels;

replacement of the input shaft bearing;

grinding the surface for the crankshaft oil seal;

repressing of pistons;

engine assembly;

engine installation.

All this also requires a huge number of tools. The mechanic locksmith uses almost all of his arsenal. Not only a standard set of wrenches, but also special tools, pullers, grips, drifts and other tricks.

A separate item is the engine running-in after overhaul. This is a separate and very important process worthy of special consideration.

How much an engine overhaul costs depends, as already mentioned, on many factors. This is the region where the work will be carried out, and the cost of parts, and the contractual potential of the car owner.But in general, you can focus on the figure of 20-30,000 rubles for a 16-valve VAZ engine.

You need to know that even after being sent for repairs, some additional difficulties may arise in the process of work. Not a single master, with any diagnostics, will determine the degree of wear of the cylinder liner walls. The basic version takes into account the work on the cylinder bore for the new piston. However, after disassembly, direct inspection may indicate the need for replacement of the cylinder liners themselves. In this case, you will have to buy a set of cylinders and repress them. It's the same with the engine crankshaft. A complete and reliable wear pattern will only be shown by complete disassembly.

It is worth noting that this replacement of work will not greatly affect the total cost.

In case of mechanical damage to the cylinder block itself or its head, the master will send the part for argon welding processing. This is welding of cracks, chips, faults. The head may be deformed and will have to be sanded. But all this, as they say, will only show an autopsy.

It is recommended when carrying out overhaul work, to defect and, if necessary, replace the clutch parts. Defect the gearbox and change the oil in it. This is very convenient when the engine is completely removed.

The repair is over. Now the engine is cold running. At different repair stations, it is made in different ways. The best option, however, is a bench run-in. The removed engine is installed on a special stand, the oil is poured at the rate and turning on the stand, they begin to rotate at a given speed. However, it is quite difficult to find a stand now. Most often, only at large service centers with exorbitant prices. Small service stations also get out of the situation. There are homemade devices from an electric motor from a 220V network, a reduction gear and attachments for the crankshaft pulley bolt. This system handles cold break-in just as well. The advantage of this device is that it can be used on an already installed engine that is not connected to the power supply and ignition system.

Both cold and hot running-in must be carried out with mineral oil. This is a prerequisite. Only mineral oil will provide a high-quality lapping of parts.

A cold run-in lasts approximately 15 minutes. After that, the master looks at the condition of the oil with a dipstick and sometimes removes the valve cover for control. Then it starts up for another 25-30 minutes. That's it, now the engine can be fully connected to the car system.

After the cold break-in and engine start-up check, the hot break-in period begins. It consists in operating the machine in a gentle way. That is, it is advisable not to overclock the engine over 5000 rpm, not to load the car with excessive weight and not to heat up too much. Otherwise, operate as usual. This mode must be kept 3500 kilometers. After that, you need to drain the used oil. It is advisable to fill in the flush, and run at idle for several minutes. Drain the flush. Now you can fill in fresh.

From that moment on, the usual semisynthetics are poured. The break-in period is over and you can use the machine as usual. Only then can we say that the overhaul has been successfully completed. Below is a helpful informational video: