DIY repair 1kz

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Posts total: 160
Registration date: Aug 2010
Location: Almaty
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Automobile: Kawasaki ZR750S / Cherokee 4.0 94g 242 / MMC RVR SportGear n74 98g. 2.4 GDI

so it all started a long time ago, there were big blow-by gases and therefore the intake manifold was clogged with eternal dirt from the oil from the small throttle valve under the hood, changed the small throttle valve seals partly helped, but all the same, everything was damp around, bought a home-made big oil separator, drove for quite a long time the oil drained from there, about 100 grams per thousand or even less, the oil was just topped up, I don’t know the lope. The engine had traction without problems, it did not smoke too much, but then it got tired of it and started to smoke more. I decided to open the head to see if there might be a valve or something else, the capital was in extreme cases, but well, first I bought a compressor and the compression measurement showed that the compression was good only in the first cylinder in the rest it was less on average by 5 eyes, this is a lot , in the end, it turned out to be a settlement of disassembly .. so that's how it was

removed the hood, unscrewed the air ducts, removed the batteries, the valve cover, then removed the timing belt and unscrewed the pulley on the camshaft and unscrewed the cover under it, then unscrewed the head bolts, behind the head bolts that secure the water pipes and USR and mass, removed the tubes from the nozzles and all trifle. He took off the valve head after a couple of valves, of course, snotty when checking, and one was pretty much dirty, but in general it was normal, and it was decided to remove the engine ..

Video (click to play).

removed all the wiring on the engine, drained the antifreeze, disconnected the hoses, removed the fan and the radiator to make it easier to unscrew the engine mountings and hooked up the engine for them, removed with this dome or whoever calls it which is inserted into frgg, it was easier to unscrew it, but who knew Well, in general, they removed something like an engine.

began to disassemble the engine on the sly, the MAIN IMPORTANT was to put everything in separate boxes because the bolts are all alike then it is easy to get confused, just in case, sign the piston 1,2,3,4 and if you have marks on the connecting rods and their caps, then you do not need to mark them, marks these are in the form of numbers 5-9 and tzh at different angles, so then you will not confuse.
I took off the piston and everything immediately became clear, on one of the first cylinder everything was normal and the compression was normal in it, I was at the beginning, in the other three there were two rings lying on the bottom, I could not even move them with my fingers ..
... also on the block there is a small type of bronze bushing, do not lose it, as for some reason it does not hold and why it does not know.

then he took the block to a hundred there they measured it and told to cushion it, brought it back to the yard before taking apart everything that could be removed. bought
sleeves if I'm not mistaken GRM fmrmy, for 14000, (prices may differ slightly exactly w; t can't remember)
rings for 12000
liners and those and those 3-4 thousand for a total of 7 thousand
repair kit for 12000

removed the oil receiver, heat exchanger or whatever it is, in general, where the filter is screwed on,

Then he unscrewed the cover where all the gears, if possible, then immediately screw the bolt 6 into the balancing gear, it is the largest in the middle, there are two holes next to one of them and you need to tighten the bolt so that they do not suffer later, then we remove and unscrew all the gears, balancing shafts, we also remove from the crankshaft to remove the cover, remove the injection pump, then the cover, unscrew the crankshaft (from the rear side of the engine, you must first unscrew the cover of the main oil seal holder), the crankshaft did not drive, but it could be checked just in case,

Amanita wrote
—————-
A question for general development: my spine is flat, it drives Prada in a 95 body with 1kz.Yesterday I decided to put my car for repair in order to put the engine in order - it will not start at temperatures below -10.

And in the service he was told (and for some reason he really believes in this service) that the Kazet does not capitalize. And given its oil consumption of 4 liters per month, the engine is a specific pista and only amputation of this engine in order to replace it with another will help. And that his cylinders are covered with some kind of nanoceramic. And that the cost of repairs will be almost equal to the cost of the contract case.

So a question arose for me: are servicemen afraid to take on or is it really so?

In 1993, the 1KZ inline 4-cylinder turbocharged diesel engine was released. The cylinder block of this engine is cast from cast iron and equipped with two balance shafts. They put a crankshaft inside with a piston stroke of 103 mm, pistons with a diameter of 96 mm and received a working volume of 3 liters.

On top of this block is an aluminum head with one camshaft and two valves per cylinder. The diameter of the intake valves is 42.5 mm, the exhaust valves are 37 mm, and the valve stem is 8 mm thick.
At 1KZ, valves need to be adjusted every 40 thousand km. Cold gaps: inlet 0.2-0.3 mm, outlet 0.25-0.35 mm.
A timing belt is used in the timing drive; replacement of the timing belt is required every 100 thousand km, otherwise the valve will bend.

On the 1KZ-T motor, a mechanical injection pump is used, and on the 1KZ-TE, the injection pump has electronic control. The power of the first is 125 hp. at 4000 rpm, and a torque of 287 Nm at 2000 rpm. The return of the second 130 hp. at 3600 rpm, torque 332 Nm at 2000 rpm.
The 1KZ version with an intercooler has a power of 140 hp, while the same version with an electronic gas pedal showed 145 hp. at 3600 rpm and a torque of 343 Nm at 2000 rpm.
All these indicators are achievable not without the help of the Toyota CT12B turbocharger, which inflates up to 0.8 bar.

As a bonus, the 1KZ was equipped with an EGR system.

In 2006, the engine ceased to be produced, and another diesel 1KD took its place.

1. Overheating. It usually occurs due to a dirty radiator, an inoperative viscous coupling, a thermostat, a pump, or cracks in the head.
2. Crack in the cylinder head. Probably, you have overheated the motor, and the head is cracked, bubbles in the expansion tank will confirm this diagnosis. This is a common thing for 1KZ, there is only one treatment - you need to buy a working head.

If the 1KZ is not overheated, then the resource of the engine and turbine is high and, with normal maintenance with appropriate care, your engine can travel 500 thousand km or even more.

This motor should not be tuned at all: the motor is old, worn out and with tuning its resource is noticeably reduced. If, for some reason, you need to increase the power of this particular engine, then the firmware will give up to 200 hp. After that, the car will not become a plane, but the engine will fall apart much earlier.

:: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club. Diesel engine running-in after overhaul - :: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club ::

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#41

he himself, after the repair, did not notice either increased fuel consumption or oil consumption. Eats as he drove.

#42

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