In detail: do-it-yourself 1kz repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Registration date: Aug 2010
Location: Almaty
Reputation: 12
Automobile: Kawasaki ZR750S / Cherokee 4.0 94g 242 / MMC RVR SportGear n74 98g. 2.4 GDI
so it all started a long time ago, there were big blow-by gases and therefore the intake manifold was clogged with eternal dirt from the oil from the small throttle valve under the hood, changed the small throttle valve seals partly helped, but all the same, everything was damp around, bought a home-made big oil separator, drove for quite a long time the oil drained from there, about 100 grams per thousand or even less, the oil was just topped up, I don’t know the lope. The engine had traction without problems, it did not smoke too much, but then it got tired of it and started to smoke more. I decided to open the head to see if there might be a valve or something else, the capital was in extreme cases, but well, first I bought a compressor and the compression measurement showed that the compression was good only in the first cylinder in the rest it was less on average by 5 eyes, this is a lot , in the end, it turned out to be a settlement of disassembly .. so that's how it was
removed the hood, unscrewed the air ducts, removed the batteries, the valve cover, then removed the timing belt and unscrewed the pulley on the camshaft and unscrewed the cover under it, then unscrewed the head bolts, behind the head bolts that secure the water pipes and USR and mass, removed the tubes from the nozzles and all trifle. He took off the valve head after a couple of valves, of course, snotty when checking, and one was pretty much dirty, but in general it was normal, and it was decided to remove the engine .. 
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removed all the wiring on the engine, drained the antifreeze, disconnected the hoses, removed the fan and the radiator to make it easier to unscrew the engine mountings and hooked up the engine for them, removed with this dome or whoever calls it which is inserted into frgg, it was easier to unscrew it, but who knew Well, in general, they removed something like an engine.
began to disassemble the engine on the sly, the MAIN IMPORTANT was to put everything in separate boxes because the bolts are all alike then it is easy to get confused, just in case, sign the piston 1,2,3,4 and if you have marks on the connecting rods and their caps, then you do not need to mark them, marks these are in the form of numbers 5-9 and tzh at different angles, so then you will not confuse.
I took off the piston and everything immediately became clear, on one of the first cylinder everything was normal and the compression was normal in it, I was at the beginning, in the other three there were two rings lying on the bottom, I could not even move them with my fingers ..
... also on the block there is a small type of bronze bushing, do not lose it, as for some reason it does not hold and why it does not know. 
then he took the block to a hundred there they measured it and told to cushion it, brought it back to the yard before taking apart everything that could be removed. bought
sleeves if I'm not mistaken GRM fmrmy, for 14000, (prices may differ slightly exactly w; t can't remember)
rings for 12000
liners and those and those 3-4 thousand for a total of 7 thousand
repair kit for 12000
removed the oil receiver, heat exchanger or whatever it is, in general, where the filter is screwed on,
Then he unscrewed the cover where all the gears, if possible, then immediately screw the bolt 6 into the balancing gear, it is the largest in the middle, there are two holes next to one of them and you need to tighten the bolt so that they do not suffer later, then we remove and unscrew all the gears, balancing shafts, we also remove from the crankshaft to remove the cover, remove the injection pump, then the cover, unscrew the crankshaft (from the rear side of the engine, you must first unscrew the cover of the main oil seal holder), the crankshaft did not drive, but it could be checked just in case,
Amanita wrote
—————-
A question for general development: my spine is flat, it drives Prada in a 95 body with 1kz.Yesterday I decided to put my car for repair in order to put the engine in order - it will not start at temperatures below -10.
And in the service he was told (and for some reason he really believes in this service) that the Kazet does not capitalize. And given its oil consumption of 4 liters per month, the engine is a specific pista and only amputation of this engine in order to replace it with another will help. And that his cylinders are covered with some kind of nanoceramic. And that the cost of repairs will be almost equal to the cost of the contract case.
So a question arose for me: are servicemen afraid to take on or is it really so?
In 1993, the 1KZ inline 4-cylinder turbocharged diesel engine was released. The cylinder block of this engine is cast from cast iron and equipped with two balance shafts. They put a crankshaft inside with a piston stroke of 103 mm, pistons with a diameter of 96 mm and received a working volume of 3 liters.
On top of this block is an aluminum head with one camshaft and two valves per cylinder. The diameter of the intake valves is 42.5 mm, the exhaust valves are 37 mm, and the valve stem is 8 mm thick.
At 1KZ, valves need to be adjusted every 40 thousand km. Cold gaps: inlet 0.2-0.3 mm, outlet 0.25-0.35 mm.
A timing belt is used in the timing drive; replacement of the timing belt is required every 100 thousand km, otherwise the valve will bend.
On the 1KZ-T motor, a mechanical injection pump is used, and on the 1KZ-TE, the injection pump has electronic control. The power of the first is 125 hp. at 4000 rpm, and a torque of 287 Nm at 2000 rpm. The return of the second 130 hp. at 3600 rpm, torque 332 Nm at 2000 rpm.
The 1KZ version with an intercooler has a power of 140 hp, while the same version with an electronic gas pedal showed 145 hp. at 3600 rpm and a torque of 343 Nm at 2000 rpm.
All these indicators are achievable not without the help of the Toyota CT12B turbocharger, which inflates up to 0.8 bar.
As a bonus, the 1KZ was equipped with an EGR system.
In 2006, the engine ceased to be produced, and another diesel 1KD took its place.
1. Overheating. It usually occurs due to a dirty radiator, an inoperative viscous coupling, a thermostat, a pump, or cracks in the head.
2. Crack in the cylinder head. Probably, you have overheated the motor, and the head is cracked, bubbles in the expansion tank will confirm this diagnosis. This is a common thing for 1KZ, there is only one treatment - you need to buy a working head.
If the 1KZ is not overheated, then the resource of the engine and turbine is high and, with normal maintenance with appropriate care, your engine can travel 500 thousand km or even more.
This motor should not be tuned at all: the motor is old, worn out and with tuning its resource is noticeably reduced. If, for some reason, you need to increase the power of this particular engine, then the firmware will give up to 200 hp. After that, the car will not become a plane, but the engine will fall apart much earlier.
:: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club. Diesel engine running-in after overhaul - :: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club ::
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#41 
Jhan
he himself, after the repair, did not notice either increased fuel consumption or oil consumption. Eats as he drove.
#42 toPPer
- Group: Members
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- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
- City: Almaty
ran in the first replacement in 2000, the second in three. next as usual after 5 thousand.
#43 Joe_Hollenbeck
he himself, after the repair, did not notice either increased fuel consumption or oil consumption. Eats as he drove.
#44 toPPer
- Group: Members
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- Registration: 04/27/05 14:54
- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
- City: Almaty
Yerzhan. keep the speed within the limits of up to 2800. 10 thousand km .. and then strain as you like.
clockwork I did as I wrote above. I also drove the first replacement like you .. after the second I already gave my way on the highway .. I didn’t eat butter ..
the compression was gaining 15 thousand from me .. then finally everything was OK ..
#45 Jhan
#46 Saracin
- Group: Members
- Posts: 249
- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#47 Saracin
- Group: Members
- Posts: 249
- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#48 toPPer
- Group: Members
- Posts: 3407
- Registration: 04/27/05 14:54
- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
- City: Almaty
#49 Terranik
- Group: Club "Prohodimets"
- Posts: 1779
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- 4M40 EFI
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#50 Lobredo
- Quarantine
#51 Sekach
#52 Saracin
- Group: Members
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- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#53 DISEL
#54 Jhan
#55 toPPer
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- Registration: 04/27/05 14:54
- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
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"Lucky".
I subscribe to the opinion of Jhan. This is not ideal. I heard a long time ago (back in Soviet times) about the fact that you need to drive for a long time on the run-in .. but not a supporter.
1. the risk that something might "fly out" on the way over long distances.
2. track - ana is the track .. long-term operation immediately after the capital in the same modes for "grinding" parts - buzzing ..
but in general, immediately a large load on the still not getting stronger engine ..)))
and you changed the diesel oil as with such a break-in.
#56 Saracin
- Group: Members
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- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#57 Duke
- Super chatterbox
Come on then hand it over, along with the phones, if you liked it so much 🙂
#58 Tahion
- Super chatterbox
Beat me! It would be better if there was no reason to know such masters))))
#59 Ruslan
:: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club. Diesel engine running-in after overhaul - :: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club ::
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- 2
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- 4
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- You cannot create a new topic
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#41 Jhan
he himself, after the repair, did not notice either increased fuel consumption or oil consumption. Eats as he drove.
#42 toPPer
- Group: Members
- Posts: 3407
- Registration: 04/27/05 14:54
- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
- City: Almaty
ran in the first replacement in 2000, the second in three. next as usual after 5 thousand.
#43 Joe_Hollenbeck
he himself, after the repair, did not notice either increased fuel consumption or oil consumption. Eats as he drove.
#44 toPPer
- Group: Members
- Posts: 3407
- Registration: 04/27/05 14:54
- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
- City: Almaty
Yerzhan. keep the speed within the limits of up to 2800. 10 thousand km .. and then strain as you like.
clockwork I did as I wrote above. I also drove the first replacement like you .. after the second I already gave my way on the highway .. I didn’t eat butter ..
the compression was gaining 15 thousand from me .. then finally everything was OK ..
#45 Jhan
#46 Saracin
- Group: Members
- Posts: 249
- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#47 Saracin
- Group: Members
- Posts: 249
- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#48 toPPer
- Group: Members
- Posts: 3407
- Registration: 04/27/05 14:54
- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
- City: Almaty
#49 Terranik
- Group: Club "Prohodimets"
- Posts: 1779
- Registration: 15.10.07 14:26
- 4M40 EFI
- City: Sairan
#50 Lobredo
- Quarantine
#51 Sekach
#52 Saracin
- Group: Members
- Posts: 249
- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#53 DISEL
#54 Jhan
#55 toPPer
- Group: Members
- Posts: 3407
- Registration: 04/27/05 14:54
- Y61 / ZD30Di / MT / 2 "/ 33"
- City: Almaty
"Lucky".
I subscribe to the opinion of Jhan. This is not ideal. I heard a long time ago (back in Soviet times) about the fact that you need to drive for a long time on the run-in .. but not a supporter.
1. the risk that something might "fly out" on the way over long distances.
2. track - ana is the track .. long-term operation immediately after the capital in the same modes for "grinding" parts - buzzing ..
but in general, immediately a large load on the still not getting stronger engine ..)))
and you changed the diesel oil as with such a break-in.
#56 Saracin
- Group: Members
- Posts: 249
- Registration: 21.10.07 15:06
- PRADODadvanced 1 KZ
- City: Almaty
#57 Duke
- Super chatterbox
Come on then hand it over, along with the phones, if you liked it so much 🙂
#58 Tahion
- Super chatterbox
Beat me! It would be better if there was no reason to know such masters))))
#59 Ruslan
In 1993, the 1KZ inline 4-cylinder turbocharged diesel engine was released. The cylinder block of this engine is cast from cast iron and equipped with two balance shafts. They put a crankshaft inside with a piston stroke of 103 mm, pistons with a diameter of 96 mm and received a working volume of 3 liters.
On top of this block is an aluminum head with one camshaft and two valves per cylinder. The diameter of the intake valves is 42.5 mm, the exhaust valves are 37 mm, and the valve stem is 8 mm thick.
At 1KZ, valves need to be adjusted every 40 thousand km. Cold gaps: inlet 0.2-0.3 mm, outlet 0.25-0.35 mm.
A timing belt is used in the timing drive; replacement of the timing belt is required every 100 thousand km, otherwise the valve will bend.
On the 1KZ-T motor, a mechanical injection pump is used, and on the 1KZ-TE, the injection pump has electronic control. The power of the first is 125 hp. at 4000 rpm, and a torque of 287 Nm at 2000 rpm. The return of the second 130 hp. at 3600 rpm, torque 332 Nm at 2000 rpm.
The 1KZ version with an intercooler has a power of 140 hp, while the same version with an electronic gas pedal showed 145 hp. at 3600 rpm and a torque of 343 Nm at 2000 rpm.
All these indicators are achievable not without the help of the Toyota CT12B turbocharger, which inflates up to 0.8 bar.
As a bonus, the 1KZ was equipped with an EGR system.
In 2006, the engine ceased to be produced, and another diesel 1KD took its place.
1. Overheating. It usually occurs due to a dirty radiator, an inoperative viscous coupling, a thermostat, a pump, or cracks in the head.
2. Crack in the cylinder head. Probably, you have overheated the motor, and the head is cracked, bubbles in the expansion tank will confirm this diagnosis. This is a common thing for 1KZ, there is only one treatment - you need to buy a working head.
If the 1KZ is not overheated, then the resource of the engine and turbine is high and, with normal maintenance with appropriate care, your engine can travel 500 thousand km or even more.
This motor should not be tuned at all: the motor is old, worn out and with tuning its resource is noticeably reduced. If, for some reason, you need to increase the power of this particular engine, then the firmware will give up to 200 hp. After that, the car will not become a plane, but the engine will fall apart much earlier.
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Guys, help with the problem! prados in the 95th body, cassette engine. does not start well when hot. and without a system, it can start up normally within a week, then, as someone whispered, I twist it with a starter for 10-15 seconds. I installed new candles, nozzles, a metering valve, a plunger, then I changed the pump assembly (from the working machine) and ran it for diagnostics, the scanner did not show a single error. some kind of glitch incomprehensible. reading your correspondence found this fuse ST. pulled it out, no changes. on cold starts normally practically, even in frost -25. but how it will heat up, that's it, the paragraph is full, in the city when you need to go somewhere and I don't turn off the car already,
Checking the drive belt of ancillary units 1kz te
1KZ-TE engine... 1 - air conditioner compressor pulley, 2 - coolant pump and fan pulley, 3 - crankshaft pulley, 4 - alternator pulley.
Adjusting the tension of the alternator drive belt (if necessary).
a) Loosen the fastening bolts “A” and “B”. indicated in the figure.
b) Adjust the belt tension with the adjusting bolt “C”.
c) After completing the adjustment, tighten the fastening bolts “A” and “B”.
Adjusting the tension of the air conditioning compressor drive belt (if necessary).
a) Loosen the idler pulley lock nut “A”.
b) Adjust the tension of the drive belt with the adjusting bolt “B”.
Timing drive mechanism 1kz te... Preliminary operations, 1 - air filter cover with air duct, 2 - intake air temperature sensor connector, 3 - throttle valve control cable (automatic transmission), 4 - accelerator cable, 5 - intake air duct, 6 - heater hose, 7 - electro-pneumatic valve connectors , 8 - vacuum hose, 9 - oil filler cap, 10 - cylinder head cover, 11 - gasket, 12 - rear timing belt cover, 13 - driven timing pulley, 14 - oil seal, 15 - roller tensioner, 16 - key , 17 - charge air intercooler assembly, 18 - boost pressure sensor connector, 19 - pipe of the forced crankcase ventilation system.
Removal and installation of the cylinder head 1kz te... 1 - air conditioning compressor, 2 - compressor bracket, 3 - heat shield, 4 - heat shield for turbocharger, 5 - cylinder head, 6 - heater hoses, 7 - bushing, 8 - power steering fluid reservoir, 9 - high pressure, 10 - tube clamp, 11 - gasket, 12 - radiator inlet hose, 13 - air conditioning compressor drive belt 14 - throttle body.
Timing and injection pump drive mechanism 1kz te, 1 - washer, 2 - crankshaft pulley, 3 - crankshaft oil seal, 4 - rear timing belt cover, 5 - gear cover, 6 - O-ring, 7 - bearing, 8 - high pressure pump shaft drive gear, 9 - crankshaft gear shaft, 10 - vacuum pump, 11 - oil seal of the high-pressure pump shaft drive gear, 12 - retaining ring, 13 - gear wheel for compensation of clearance N21, 14 - intermediate gear, 15 - gear for compensation of clearance No. 2, 16 - retaining ring, 17 - thrust washer, 18, 21 - spring washer, 19, 20 - backlash compensation spring, 22 - idler gear shaft.
If the belt is replaced before the indicator lights up, warning of the need to replace the belt (the indicator lights up after one hundred thousand kilometers), then it is necessary to reset the belt counter, which is part of the speedometer, to zero.
Caution: After removing the timing belt, turn the crankshaft 90 ° counterclockwise before proceeding to avoid collision of valves and pistons.
1 - timing belt cover, 2 - gasket, 3 - clamp, 4 - timing belt, 5 - tensioner.
1. Remove the timing belt cover and gasket.
2. While turning the crankshaft, align the timing marks as shown in the figure.
3. If you intend to re-install the timing belt, mark the direction of rotation arrow and markings of the position of the belt relative to the pulleys with chalk,
4. Unscrew the two tensioner mounting bolts, remove the tensioner,
5. Remove the tension roller mounting bolt (internal hex 10 mm), remove the roller.
6. Remove the timing belt.
7. Remove the timing belt guide from the drive pulley.
8. Remove the air intake duct or intercooler and cylinder head cover.
9. Holding the camshaft, unscrew the bolt securing the driven toothed pulley, remove the pulley. Note: Do not lose the key when removing.
1. Install the driven pulley-in the camshaft.
a) Install the key into the groove in the shaft.
b) Align the groove of the pulley with the key, slide the pulley onto the shaft.
c) While holding the camshaft, tighten the pulley bolt.
2. Install the cylinder head cover and air intake duct or intercooler.
3. Check the alignment of timing marks on the driven and driven camshaft pulleys with benchmarks. If the marks do not match, turn the shaft (camshaft or crankshaft) until the mark aligns with the benchmark.
Attention: in case of inaccurate alignment of the marks, the valves may hit the pistons.
4. Place the belt on the toothed pulleys, align the marks on the belt with the marks on the pulleys and observing the mark for the direction of rotation.
5. Install the timing belt guide onto the drive pulley by tightening the four bolts.
6. Install the washer and roller tensioner. Tighten the mounting bolt.
Check the roller for smooth rotation. If the rotation is not smooth, check that the washer is installed correctly,
a) Using a press, slowly push the tensioner plunger into the body until the holes in the plunger and body line up.
b) Insert the pin with a diameter of 1.5 mm into the hole,
c) Install the tensioner to the engine by sliding the tensioner pulley towards the belt. Tighten the two mounting bolts to 13 Nm.
d) Remove the tensioner retaining pin.
8. Turn the timing pulley two turns clockwise, check the alignment of all marks with the benchmarks.
9. Install the timing belt cover.
a) Remove the remnants of the old sealant.
b) Apply sealant to the locations indicated by the arrows in the figure.
c) Install a new gasket and timing belt cover.
d) Install washers and bolts. Tighten the bolts.
e) Install the clips on the timing belt cover.
Japanese diesels of the 1KZ series, including the 1KZ-TE engine at home and in Europe, hardly break down. But, once outside the "paradise", no longer new motors fall, as they say, in "hell".Bad roads, low level of service, low-quality fuels and lubricants are doing their dirty work. Only taking these factors into account can we talk about their “shortcomings”.
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In the spring of 1993, one of the most successful Toyota 1KZ-TE diesel engines was developed and put into production, which began to replace the 2L-TE diesel engine. It is distinguished by high reliability with excellent dynamic characteristics. A little earlier, and then in parallel, an earlier version was produced: 1KZ-T with a mechanical pump drive.
The three-liter 1KZ-TE with an aluminum body has begun a new countdown for modern Toyota engines, expressed in a noticeable reduction in engine weight. Such a block of cylinders can be injection molded, which is technologically simpler and more accurate.
In 2000, Toyota's line of engines was supplemented with a new 1KD-FTV diesel engine, which began to replace the 1KZ-TE.
The main characteristics of 1KZ-TE, related to the Water cooling 4 cylinder SOHC type, are:
Injection pump 1KZ-TE of the same VE type as for mechanical modifications, but with solenoid valves. One of them regulates the fuel supply according to the commands given by the control unit (EFI), the second - by the injection advance, i.e. by changing the moment of fuel supply.
Perfectly tuned automation accurately monitors the operating modes of the Toyota 1KZ-TE engine: warming up, idling, with the air conditioner on, afterburning gases by the EGR system, vacuum control and vacuum switches on commands from the ECU with an additional throttle valve.
But there are also some difficulties: a "tricky" timing belt drive and balancer mechanism, a 1KZ-TE turbine, electronic control of the injection pump, expensive repairs, high cost and a shortage of spare parts. There are also problems with the cylinder head (cylinder head). Therefore, in our conditions, an early version of 1KZ-T with a mechanical injection pump is more acceptable.
Oddly enough, the accuracy of the electronics adds to the problems: the actuators fail too quickly due to low-quality fuel (especially winter grades), and the injection pump "gets lost".
This diesel does not like overheating. If almost all cracks in the 2LT head can be welded, then in 1KZ - only 50%. Moreover, they cannot be seen on an idle motor.
On a diesel engine, it is necessary to change the timing belt in a timely manner, since when it breaks, the pistons collide with the valves.
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Video (click to play). |
Let's list them without specifying the modifications:
- Grand Hiace (minivan);
- Cranvia;
- Hiace (minibus);
- Hiace Regius;
- Hilux;
- Hilux Surf;
- Land Cruiser (Prado);
- Touring Hiace.
