DIY repair 2110

The “dozens”, in comparison with their brethren, have a lot of differences, which lie in the design features of the engine. In addition to the constructive ones, there are other, more unpleasant differences that relate to the malfunctions inherent in the tenth generation of the VAZ.

The device of the gear lever in the manual transmission on the VAZ 2110 is rather primitive, as, indeed, everything that the hands of AvtoVAZ engineers touched. Well, okay, not about that now. The fulcrum of such a lever is the hinge, which is installed in a special socket.

Hello. Today at VAZ Repair we will talk about the dashboard or “tidy” as it is commonly called. In this article, you will learn how to remove the dashboard on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands quickly and correctly.

Despite the obvious progress in the automotive industry, the trivial problems associated with the car, unfortunately, do not go away. So, for example, even the newest and most sophisticated “gelding” can become a victim of the simplest nail, which is already “a hundred years old”.

Hello. Today in the heading Repair VAZ 2110 I will tell you how to remove the steering wheel on the “top ten”. A step-by-step photo report will allow you to replace the steering wheel at home without resorting to the services of a service station.

For the softness and comfort of movement in a car, not only correctly inflated wheels or comfortable seats are responsible, the serviceability of the suspension is important, the parts of which should work as a whole. A disruption in the operation of at least one of the above nodes will entail a general imbalance

According to the Euro-3 environmental standard, the emission of hydrocarbon vapors into the atmosphere, which occurs when gasoline evaporates, is prohibited. With this in mind, scientists have come up with a device that allows you to capture and neutralize the above vapors.

Video (click to play).

On this site you will find a lot of useful and necessary information for the repair and maintenance of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 cars with your own hands.

Unlike other similar projects, which mainly copy materials from printed manuals, this site contains only original materials.

All instructions are presented visually from personal experience, using the so-called experimental car, which was purchased for this very purpose.

VAZ-2110 and its counterparts VAZ-2111 and VAZ-2112 are front-wheel drive cars that have gained great popularity among motorists.

And although, like other car models from VAZ, these models also have design flaws (unfortunately, there is no other way), you can still pay tribute to the manufacturers, they produced a less high-quality car.

The most important thing is that the repair and operation of the VAZ 2110 is much cheaper than foreign cars and it is much more adapted to our roads.

Due to the ease of operation, repairs of a VAZ 2110 car can be done even by yourself, with only minor technical skills.

But in order to qualitatively repair this car and its modifications (by body type there are: VAZ-2110 - "sedan", VAZ-2111 - "station wagon", VAZ-2112 - "hatchback"), it is necessary to study the relevant repair literature. Unfortunately, there is no way without it.

Therefore, I present to your attention an excellent multimedia guide Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2110.

This manual amazed me with its simplicity and comprehensibility, high-quality color drawings and clear interactive diagrams.

Convenient control menu literally in seconds will take you to the desired section.

Detailed instructions for repairing a VAZ 2110 will teach you to quickly and efficiently repair a breakdown of any complexity, and if you cannot perform complex work, then at least you will no longer be a layman in this matter.

The multimedia manual Do-it-yourself VAZ 2110 repair will really teach you how to properly repair your car.

The body of a car undergoes corrosion over the years, especially quickly it begins to rust if you do not take care of it, do not make an anti-corrosion coating. How soon the body parts begin to rust, also largely depends on the quality of the iron, factory processing, over time, the car needs repairs to the bottom, sills, side members, wheel arches, and so on.

Rusted sills and a rotten bottom are a fairly common problem on a VAZ-2110 car, and since such work in a car service is quite expensive, many car owners try to repair the car with their own hands. You can patch holes on the body and bring the car back to its normal form by various methods, there are non-welding methods, but basically all car owners try to make repairs using welding.

With any body repair, first of all, it is necessary to make an external examination of the iron, to identify and note for yourself which areas are in a deplorable state, need repair or replacement. The condition of the bottom metal is determined in different ways:

• using a hammer and a core drill - if you think that there is rust in a certain area, you need to lightly hit the metal, check if there is rotten iron under the anti-corrosion coating;
• try to raise the car on a jack on each side - if the stubborn platforms are rotten, it will be noticeable when you try to jack up the car;
• push in different places on the floor of the car - weak, rotten iron will bend under your feet;
• try to move the front seats back and forth in the cabin - problematic seat movements also often indicate the poor condition of the metal.

Any repair of thresholds and bottom by a non-welding method is not professional, and the craftsmen are considered only a temporary measure in order to restore the condition of the body in an amicable way, one cannot do without a welding machine. When repairing the bottom without welding, patches and new body elements are not welded, but installed on rivets or self-tapping screws (bolts), preparation and all other work is done in the same way as in traditional body repair using a welding machine.

Before proceeding with the restoration of the body in the traditional way (using welding), you need to prepare everything you need, from the tools you will need:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• electric drill with drills;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer.

To remove old noise insulation, you may need a chisel, you can quickly and efficiently remove the "noise" using a perforator. To clean metal, sandpaper of various grain sizes is needed; to increase productivity, it is recommended to use a sanding machine. You cannot do without materials when repairing the bottom, here a lot depends on the volume of restoration work. Most often you have to use:

• patches (pieces of new iron) or ready-made spare parts such as floor spars, panels, sill amplifiers, etc .;
• priming;
• rust converter;
• anti-corrosion and noise-insulating materials (you can use Movil, Tektil, bitumen mastic, Dinitrol, Prim Antishum, etc.).

Since the brake, fuel pipes under the bottom often corrode thoroughly, stick and do not turn away, in many cases they also need to be replaced.

Before setting new salaries on the bottom or weld on body elements, you need to make preparations, partially disassemble the car:

• remove the seats;
• remove carpet;
• dismantle the old soundproofing;
• move aside the electrical wiring in those places where repairs will be carried out.

Before replacing individual elements, installing patches, the entire metal surface is freed from the old noise insulation, thoroughly washed and wiped off, cleaned with a grinder, a stripper or sandpaper. Then the metal should be degreased and treated with a rust converter, only after that you can start working directly with iron.

Most often, when replacing individual parts of the bottom or installing patches, welding is used; a semiautomatic welding machine is best suited for such repairs. If a complete individual part is changed, for example, a cross member, rivets can be drilled here and the element can be dismantled without welding.

When the bottom and the sills change at the same time, the latter are removed from the car first, and when replacing the sills, it is important to control the geometry of the body. When replacing floor panels, the bottom parts are always mounted from below, then welded or riveted. When there are many holes and foci of corrosion in the floor of the body, it is better to replace the bottom completely, all the more since it is relatively inexpensive when assembled for a Top Ten.

After carrying out work on restoring the bottom of the body, it is necessary to treat the surface with anti-corrosion compounds, it is best to first prime the iron, and then apply anti-corrosion. Before applying a protective layer, the metal must be thoroughly washed and dried, the best option is to degrease it with white spirit, acetone, solvent or a special chemical composition after washing. Also, do not forget about the processing of welds, they are lubricated with mastic.

In case of significant damage, the bottom often changes entirely, replacement in this case is more profitable than repairing:

• the purchase of one large integral part as a result is cheaper than purchasing all the spare parts separately;
• the amount of work in general for replacing the bottom is less than repairing it;
• no need to waste time on thorough cleaning of metal from rust, removal of old sound insulation;
• completely replacing the bottom can be quite simple, without welding, by drilling out the rivets, and then installing new fasteners.

If you are going to use an automatic welding machine, it is imperative to dismantle the fuel tank when replacing the floor of the body, non-observance of safety precautions can lead to a fire or even an explosion. And although the work of replacing a one-piece body element at first glance seems quite simple, there are some nuances here - on the new factory floor there are no studs, a bracket for a parking brake cable, and other fasteners that will need to be rearranged from the old floor.

1. When preparing iron for patches, it is necessary to take into account its thickness - too thin metal will be fragile, and a thick sheet is poorly welded and harder to process.
2. Although electric welding is cheaper to use, it is better to weld metal with a semi-automatic - it is easier to use it, and the weld is smoother and more accurate.
3. When cutting out pieces of metal and installing patches, the part to be installed must fit exactly in size.
4. When replacing the bottom, the weld seam cannot be continuous, since it has high rigidity, and insufficient elasticity negatively affects the strength of the body.

And if you undertake to repair the body with your own hands, you should be patient, carefully, without haste, perform all the necessary operations, sparing no time and effort in processing the metal, cleaning it from rust. Poor preparation and poor anti-corrosion treatment lead to the rapid appearance of corrosion, which negatively affects the service life of body elements.

VAZ 2110 is an excellent example of auto designers from Togliatti to catch up with the western auto industry.But in order to bring the VAZ 2110 closer to the level of Western-made cars, you can and should do tuning yourself.

But it is worth knowing that it will take a lot of funds and efforts, not to mention tremendous patience, because if you compare the tuning of the VAZ 2110 with the tuning of the VAZ 2107, the revision of the latter would be much cheaper and easier, because this car has already become a kind of tuning classic.

You need to start tuning the engine by improving the "breathing" of the engine, i.e. first of all, you need to provide the engine with good air flow. Replacing a part as simple as an air filter will increase engine power by up to 8%. The entire throttle assembly must be removed immediately after the old filter. it will be able to provide the necessary amount of air for the process of preparing the fuel mixture.

Naturally, you will have to spend money on the intake receiver, before you have to make a choice for this - where will you need more power, at low revs, or is it necessary for the car to feel more confident at high engine revs? It should be noted that the replacement of the exhaust receiver and camshaft should be done only under special conditions in a professional service, because carrying out these works on their own may require additional costs for repairs and for the delivery of the car by a tow truck to the same service.

Naturally, this revision will definitely require replacement of the intake system. For example, you can put a collector 4-2-1, where the gases will first merge into two pipes, and then join into a common stream. Also, chip tuning of the engine will not be superfluous.

Having started tuning the VAZ 2110, you can also modify the standard transmission. For example, the sixth gear will not be superfluous (although it will be very time consuming and long to “add” it). But such an addition justifies itself - when installing such "short" gears, you can give an opportunity for a quick and rapid acceleration and the engine reaching maximum power.

Therefore, you need to immediately take into account the task for yourself: do you need to rarely change gears or very often turn to the gearshift knob? Don't forget about the clutch as well. factory will not last long. Here it is recommended to go to a special store and purchase something from the options of Western manufacturers (AP, UK, Lockhead). A limited slip differential will not be superfluous, for safety reasons. The suspension should not be ignored either.

In addition to other external tuning of the VAZ 2110 (installation of a new bumper or body kits on the body, radiator grill, spoilers, etc.), special attention should be paid to tuning the headlights and taillights, because we must admit that the factory headlights are indistinct and do not give the car the proper charm. In addition, the white VAZ 2110 will look much more presentable with tinted dark headlights.

Headlights can be tinted in several different ways, some of which do not affect the lighting of the road at all. Factory headlights of various types are installed on the car, so this tuning option must be considered individually. The most popular and easiest way is to paint the headlight (the lighting does not change after that). To do this, you need to remove the headlight from the car and carefully snap off the glass from the sealant. The surface for painting must be sanded and degreased (for this it is recommended to use a transparent primer from a spray can).

When painting, you need to use heat-resistant paint, it is sold in the same stores where you can use regular spray paint for the body. The most important thing when painting is to apply it at a sufficient distance to obtain an even layer. When painting, the headlight glass is not affected. You can read more about headlight tuning in this article.

When tuning the VAZ 2110 interior, you should first of all focus on high-quality noise insulation and interior punching (as a rule, two-tone velor or tweed to match the body color is used). The seats must necessarily undergo a constriction, because factory fabric will fray very quickly. To do this, you need to remove the factory seats - this way it is much more convenient to plan the location of the fragments of the material. To do this, correctly cut out the fragments, it is necessary to apply each piece of the standard material to the new material and trace around the contour with a pen.

Any constriction is not complete without reinforcement with foam rubber - for this it is best to use foam rubber 5 millimeters thick. The cut out parts of the seat must be glued to the foam rubber using aerosol glue. Leather-tightened seats are not cheap, but they will last a long time, especially if the simplest repairs to the seats are carried out on time.

The standard design of the VAZ 2110 instrument panel is not very original, but you can add originality to it by replacing the backlight and instrument inserts. This can be done in several ways, and the essence in a nutshell is:

1. Completely remake the dashboard yourself, i.e. use special luminescent paint to place numbers, arrows, notches, install LED backlighting under the tachometer and under the stove switches.
2. Buy ready-made inserts for the dashboard (they are present in large quantities in the automotive markets).
3. Buy and install a new dashboard (it can be both digital and pointer) with additional devices.
4. Install the dashboard from another car brand (in this case, the dashboard will inevitably need to be revised).

Markets abound, with both simple standard dashboards and alternatives with multiple instrument clusters.

VAZ 2110 can rightfully be called a classic VAZ car, given its date of entry to the market and the obvious connection with previous generations of already cult cars. Made on the basis of 2108, the car did not cause the same furore as its predecessor, but it was still very popular, and therefore there are a lot of people who want to repair the VAZ 2110 with their own hands.

Despite the fact that in constructive terms, the car is rather archaic, and the design is simple and unassuming, this did not affect its distribution and it still enjoys well-deserved respect among motorists. A dozen does not require any special maintenance, and therefore almost any repair operation can be carried out in the garage and with a rather modest supply of tools. The only exception is the injection system of the latest models produced and the electronic engine management system, which require special equipment. However, with sufficient experience and a competent approach, you can independently service the electronic system. Fortunately, the knowledge base is not so large and not at all difficult to understand.

To repair a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, you need to have an accurate idea of ​​the device of this car. Since the 110th Lada is a very affordable means of transportation, it is she who becomes the first car of many motorists. This car is an excellent basis for studying the features of a car device, an excellent basis for tuning and, of course, just a good car. But like any other vehicle, the dozen have their drawbacks. Considering the time on the market and the prevalence, all the shortcomings of 2110 have been studied up and down, and therefore you won't have to wait for any fundamentally new problems. In addition, unification with related cars from VAZ will simplify the process of finding and replacing parts for a car.

You can resort to tuning, which is very popular in recent years, and solutions from companies specializing in fairly high-quality modified spare parts, which no one even thought of a few years ago. These include the timing camshafts, a range of power steering and a host of other things. For the suspension and optics of a car, there are many options for parts.

Since it is easy to get lost in such a wide variety, in order to carry out a successful repair of dozens, it is important to systematize all the main malfunctions of components and mechanisms of a VAZ car, where a technique for troubleshooting, ways of replacing spare parts will be considered, as well as attention will be paid to tolerances, dimensions, shrinkage and their compliance or inconsistency factory standards.

And to be more precise, the repair of engines, since for a dozen completely different solutions were installed over the course of time. These were both carburetor, akin to the engines of eights and nines, and injection-type engines. Timely servicing of the installed engine and maintenance made it possible to show even such a figure as 500 thousand mileage on the speedometer. Even under ideal conditions, this figure is almost a record. For comparison, the Ford Focus feels bad already at the figure of 50 thousand mileage, thereby requiring immediate service. The top ten may not even need this, however, of course, it is better to take care of the fuel system, including the injection system.

Basically, there is no need to spend a lot of money for the fuel system. You can service the injector, the fuel pump, replace the fuel filter in a timely manner or clean the mass air flow sensor in a garage without expecting any problems. To carry out the above works on the maintenance and repair of the fuel system, dozens rarely require special tools. The only thing that needs to be remembered is the prepared means for cleaning system elements of the required quality. Such funds are inexpensive and useful in flushing the nozzles or cleaning the mass air flow sensor, and in the case of carburetor solutions - when flushing the lock and hard-to-reach places. It is important to remember that using solvents and aggressive chemicals, the motorist runs the risk of damaging rubber elements, such as seals or cuffs, which are abundant in both carburetor and injection systems.

Repair of such elements as the ignition module, ECU, on-board computer, if necessary, can be left to services. Nowadays, modified modules that control the injection system are quite common, as well as ignition modules, the settings of which are promptly changed. Therefore, there is no need for a full-fledged chip tuning of the dozen. So, for example, the January controller, which is responsible for the injection system, can provide extensive opportunities for making changes to the working process of the fuel system and the ignition system.

The controls for this controller are located in the passenger compartment, and in order to make changes in its settings, it is enough to press the necessary button, after which the system will reprogram the algorithm of the injection and ignition processes. This allows you to change the operational and dynamic characteristics of the engine without leaving the passenger compartment and without disassembling anything. Especially for the dozen, a module was released that can literally switch the injection system to economy or sport mode on the fly. Accordingly, you can reset the changes made to the default settings.

In the case of repairing electrical equipment and elements such as a starter, generator and relays serving them, there are also no difficulties. It is important to know the nuances of the location of the fuses and the relay itself. In 2110, these elements in a sense can be called systematized, and they are also collected closer to each other and therefore you do not have to engage in lengthy searches for the necessary detail. There are some oddities in the systematization of these elements, and the production plant periodically made changes. But for the most part, the logic in device placement is still there.