I put these, 30,000 consumption 200 grams per 10,000, the caps had the inscription NOK
Zheka 582 (09 September 2014 - 17:26) wrote:
Chery SMD184303
I put these, 30,000 consumption 200 grams per 10,000, the caps had the inscription NOK
Mitsubishi Auto Lovers Club
rsl Apr 19, 2009 03:47 am
I got myself a Legnum cheaply with a knocked out engine. I started digging the Internet to decide what is better for a capital or a replacement for a contract one, but I never came to an unambiguous conclusion.
Tell me the amount of the capital together with spare parts and work, as well as the time frame in which it is being performed.
As an option, I found a contract engine with a hinged one for 22 thousand rubles, but it is in 1998, will it fit without alterations to the November 1997 legnum?
psI would be grateful for advice and answers on the topic, otherwise I’ve been sitting on the internet for a week looking for answers to my questions.
Igor981 Apr 19, 2009 11:04 am
rsl
In general, I would defect the existing engine, and then I thought about what to do.
rsl Apr 19, 2009 11:57 am
Yes, I actually have questions about the high-pressure fuel pump, it seems like the second generation has gone from '98, whether it will stand up without alterations. On the MEK website I read that it is necessary to redo it when you only change the injection pump, and then the entire engine is replaced.
Well, and in pursuit of the second question is it possible to put the engine of 2001-2002? Wouldn't it have to install new brains and wiring for this?
Lancer01 Apr 19, 2009 11:57 am
rsl
A new one will do, but it may not “fit” in detail, pay attention to the injection pump, if the new one has a different shape (for example, you have the first generation, but on a new second generation engine), then you will have to change the “scythe” next to the engine itself ”, Injector amplifier, comp. So look to make sure that is also available.
Evgen123 Apr 19, 2009 11:59 am
Lancer01 Apr 19, 2009 12:02 pm
4G93 was installed before 2000. , since 2000 went 4G94 (2 liters), you can change it, for the same, together with the "oblique", the injector amplifier, the computer ..
rsl Apr 19, 2009 12:07 pm
So I am afraid of this, as the amount will greatly increase. And if I capitalize, then I probably won't be able to pull it, because I can't feel it with one engine.
Plus, in the engine, the liners did not seem to crank, but some kind of shaft burst. The knock is strange, unusual .. not the same as I had on the 2JZ when the earbuds turned.
Even in the service they counted 50-60 thousand for the repair of the suspension. Is it really that expensive to replace it? Even in a circle.
ps I bought this legnum for restoration, for 80,000 rubles I would like to meet the 150,000 total price. (you need to fake the bumpers, tailgate and paint these elements)
rsl Apr 19, 2009 12:08 pm
Lancer01 »Apr 19, 2009, 12:15 pm
rsl »Apr 19, 2009, 12:25 pm
Lancer01 Apr 19, 2009 12:31 pm
I can follow. Saturday with you to go (I'll be in the city), I'll look for a steering rack for myself .. Only from the beginning I would like to look at your engine, maybe not everything is so serious.
rsl Apr 19, 2009 4:39 pm
set90202 »19 Apr 2009, 18:00
rsl »20 Apr 2009, 18:37
Today I was once again in the service, I was told that it is not necessary to change the scythe and the computer, only to modify the return lines from the injection pump, it is a little different. Otherwise, everything will fall into place.
Above, I was advised to buy an engine with a scythe and a computer, if the difference in the engine is 1 year, it differs only in the high-pressure fuel pump (the second generation is already installed), will it get up on electrics? If you need to change something other than 1 sensor, please describe in more detail
set90202 Apr 20, 2009 at 09:06 pm
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Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
The old forum has never had a photo report on the repair of fuel injection pump. I feel the time has come. While I will deal with the pictures (insert them on the forum), prepare:
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No key, don't even try to disassemble the regulator. No ersatz substitutes are suitable.
Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
Change, for a start, the filter at the entrance to the injection pump.
Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
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On the image:
The fuel pump filter changed 2 times, before the winter-spring seasons. This is not a problem, I only started swimming for a week, I went to the Lipetsk Japanka for diagnostics - the verdict is pressure in the high-pressure fuel pump, respectively, the officials only have the replacement of the high-pressure fuel pump at a price of 35t / rub. on the old forum I read about the ability to extend the life of the pump
Let's continue.
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We unscrew the 4 long bolts holding the sections together and helping ourselves a little with a flat screwdriver, like a lever,
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Using the E8 head, unscrew the two bolts under the "asterisk". We unscrew evenly, 3-4 turns each, pressing firmly
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Well, to be precise, this is a photo of the 3rd generation injection pump, but they differ only in the fastening castellated nut.
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Using two flat screwdrivers, using them as levers, we take out the corrugation. With corrugation in general, we handle it carefully!
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It is better to put all the removed parts in a plastic container.
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Once the plunger pair (crimp and center plunger) has been cleaned, a small but much needed test should be performed. Its result will show
Let's continue.
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And, finally, “our charm-s-s-t” - three plates.
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Well, I don't think there is much to tell about the state of these. And so everything is visible.
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We take a thick glass, at least 8 mm, or better 10 mm, put it on something, also even and solid,
Here are the pluses of the new forum, excellent instructions. Thank you And at the same time the question: when warming up a cold car
in the area of the rear left wheel, away from the gas tank, some whistling is heard, this is normal or not.
Here are the pluses of the new forum, excellent instructions. Thank you And at the same time the question: when warming up a cold car
in the area of the rear left wheel, away from the gas tank, some whistling is heard, this is normal or not.
I can assume several situations - the neck of the gas tank is rotten and the intake air siphon quietly;
Thank you. I'm more inclined to think that the neck is rotten, the whistle is not even a whistle, but the hiss is like a wheel poisoning. Is it possible to inspect the neck without removing the tank?
Thank you. I'm more inclined to think that the neck is rotten, the whistle is not even a whistle, but the hiss is like a wheel poisoning. Is it possible to inspect the neck without removing the tank?
At a minimum, use a flashlight to shine through the filler hole.
Oops. but how to determine what generation of injection pump is worth? ... on fault, can you? VIN: XMCLNDA2AWF049266
Oops. but how to determine what generation of injection pump is worth? ... on fault, can you? VIN: XMCLNDA2AWF049266
If the pump unit is located at the end of the engine, between the engine and the air filter box, then this is only
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And if the pump block is located on the side of the engine, between the flap,
what is the acceptable minimum plate thickness after grinding? and is there an order of the plates? Is it worth turning the pressure regulator on the injection pump (there is a hexagon in my block under the number 4 in the figure) and if it costs how much and in which direction?
you can read here, for a general development, so to speak
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what is the acceptable minimum plate thickness after grinding? and is there an order of the plates? Is it worth turning the pressure regulator on the injection pump (there is a hexagon in my block under the number 4 in the figure) and if it costs how much and in which direction?
You are unlikely to remove 0.1 from the entire package. There is no permissible (within reasonable limits), the wear of the plates is removed by the clamp of the top cover. And that is why between the cover and the body
Of course, I am not a “deer”, but when I have never done it, I prefer to first learn about the intricacies and pitfalls, so as not to get into the situation later, in Lebedyan nobody wants to take my djidai, and since then I will have to do it myself and so as not to get paid.
Of course, I am not a “deer”, but when I have never done it, I prefer to first learn about the intricacies and pitfalls, so as not to get into the situation later, in Lebedyan nobody wants to take my djidai, and since then I will have to do it myself and so as not to get paid.
Will you wait until evening? There will be a continuation of the report. With assembly. No offense, if you do it carefully and think a little, you can't make a mistake. And friends are helpers with beer
There is a new pump, we bought it for 40,000. I will give it for 15,000r
Added after 18 seconds
Are you guys kidding me? 🙂 I saw the injection pump, probably more than the whole club put together
Surprisingly, neither Vladivostok, nor Sakhalin Island, nor the cold city of Khabarovsk became the "homeland of repair" of direct fuel injection engines. GDI. GDI in Russia there is nowhere.
It is in this way - by substituting a high-pressure fuel pump on the "donor" engine, and all the parts sent for diagnostics and repair are repaired (for prices for such repairs - see the end of the article, a rather interesting note ...).
The injection pump, substituted for the "donor", began to work, but how - with the "swimming" of revolutions:
It is good that there was "some" experience, there were already certain "best practices" on this issue (why and why it can "pump" speed), therefore the type of this malfunction was determined quickly enough, having rechecked, of course, and according to the indications of a diagnostic scanner:
the notorious mistake got out P0190 , in the current characteristics it was clear that; the high pressure fuel pump has been "adjusted" to a pressure of approximately 8 Mpa.
Which means only one thing: the pump must be carefully sorted out, because it is not known what else could "adjust" those hands that are called "playful" in the environment of Diagnostics.
Well, "we take a brush and gasoline" ...
And only after a thorough bulkhead of the injection pump;
Number 2 in the photo shows exactly the place under the "hexagon", which "someone and once" twisted.
Yes, you thought correctly, this is the so-called driver injector, an electronic device that is responsible for the operation of injectors.
Outwardly, when examining it, either "simply" with the eyes, and with the help of a magnifying glass, nothing was found. Everything is normal and nothing aroused suspicion: "paths" of a workable type, nowhere are there traces of melting, "swellings", there is no characteristic smell of "something" burnt out.
probably one of the first to repair his 1999 Mitsubishi Carisma. 4G93 engine.It was like this: I arrived at the station to Sergei on the advice of friends (having visited a dozen more stations before that), the problem was that the cutoff occurred earlier and earlier every month, at that time the turnover did not rise above 2000-2200. After talking with Sergei and talking about my misfortune, he offered to measure the fuel pressure in the system, connected a multimeter (namely a multimeter, not a pressure gauge), explaining that the pressure of the NVD is checked in this way. On the screen of the multimeter, numbers ran up (HZ what they mean), Sergei said that it was necessary to flush the entire NVD and grind some plates there, I left the car after discussing the time of my appearance on the call. The next day they called me and said DONE, without specifying the details, I went to the station. My swallow stood near the box and hummed with its motor (as they explained to me later, the process of adaptation of the throttle was taking place). I received an offer to ride, leaving a secondary road, I gave it to a sneaker, I was extremely surprised by the dynamics of the car, it did not tumble so much even at the time of its purchase.
To summarize: The cutoff has returned to its rightful place, the car has become more high-torque, the consumption of 12-14 liters has dropped significantly. city 10 highway, the pleasure of driving is back.
P.S. For the work, I paid 3000 + 300 for the filter (I did not specify what they did there, and I had no time for that) almost a year has passed since the repair - the flight is normal.
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In general, such a situation - the car starts to stall after 5.7 minutes, in the tank you drain all the gasoline with oil, fill in new clean gasoline, clean the candles, add 1 liter of oil, again the internal combustion engine works well for five seven minutes, earlier with these engines it is didn't have. Frankly, I want to refuse. But it became interesting myself. I already found out that on this model the fuel pressure is 50 kg, the fuel regulator is electronic, In general, I am still sinning on the high pressure pump, I just don’t know its design. I think that only the one who faced such a problem can really tell
I have been doing them for many years, regularly GDI gives funny puzzles. There is no ready-made solution. Mixing of oil in the fuel system is possible. I am always scared more by cars that have come from where they could not be repaired. Solve the equation, the ratio of the frequency of arrival of such cars to you for a sufficiently long rowing with this case. No matter how complicated there is nothing, you will find all the information, if you decide to do it, on the mek1 website.
Location: Khabarovsk
lrn a / f a b1 - 4.7%
idle pos. - off
afs - 31.2 Hz. - something is not enough.
brake bac.s - 0.0 Kpa
egr step.mtr. - 233 step - some kind of horror
learn knock - 99.6% - does it happen?
It must be twisted while looking at the scanner. The norm is 640 mV. Sign XX will also appear.
Hydrach included.
Was it all that way or was it glitches?
There is only one problem, this is a poor mixture! The injectors must also be checked for performance. Perhaps they didn’t smoke, or already the forces of the khan 🙂
Is the pump, as I understand it, a seven-plunger pump? if yes, then the net on the feed should be checked.
The TPN can be corrected, but it will not have a strong effect.
Location: Karaganda
LexaSaratov wrote: 1. As I understand the problem, the XX mode is not turned on at the speed of XX?
It must be twisted while looking at the scanner. The norm is 640 mV. Sign XX will also appear.
There is only one problem, this is a poor mixture! The injectors must also be checked for performance. Perhaps they didn’t smoke, or already the forces of the khan 🙂
If there are 4 wires, then the lunch usually seems to be correct and the processor does not see it. Maybe the wire doesn't reach. You can check directly on the RTD connector. this is a contact near zero.
P.S. Yes, I almost forgot, during the diagnosis: I did not turn the steering wheel, I did not press the brake and the air conditioner did not work. it seems really glitches.
Location: Karaganda
For this you need a stand, i.e. special equipment.
If you have 4 wires, see fig. TPS, idle switch.
You yourself washed the DZ. Please remove it again before adjusting. Check that it closes tightly or otherwise adjust with the stop screw, see Fig. DZ. But so as not to have a snack at the opening.
Makasyaykin (08.21.2012 - 08:10) wrote:
the subject has our phones, it's probably better to call them, we rarely visit here.
we do almost everything, except for the body and automatic machines. Post has been editedMakasyaykin: 04/16/2013 - 12:00
As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
Only by prior call.
Makasyaykin (09/26/2013 - 14:39) wrote:
This is what it is, "pill" 3rd generation
As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
Only by prior call.
Just in case. Repair of all Jidai (GDI) and MPI engines, including Pajeromontero, Dingo, Pinin / Io, Lancer, RVR, etc.
There is also a new service for flashing the engine ECU (brains). Advantages: translation into Euro 2 (turning off 2 lambdas), turning off the EGR valve by software, a slight decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in dynamics. 89223080915. Bakharevskaya first .
P.S. For vehicles only MMS Post has been editedNeos: 05/26/2016 - 23:28
As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
Only by prior call.
Just in case. Repair of all Jidai (GDI) and MPI engines, including Pajero3montero3, Dingo, Pinin / Io, Lancer, RVR, etc.
There is also a new service for flashing the engine ECU (brains). Advantages: translation into Euro 2 (turning off 2 lambdas), turning off the EGR valve by software, a slight decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in dynamics. 89223080915.
P.S. For vehicles only MMS
Video (click to play).
Hello! please orientate the price! Cleaning the forces 4G93T, remove the catalyst, flash the euro 2 sweat, turn off the USR.
