In detail: do-it-yourself 4g93 gdi repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Message alienz "05 Dec 2008, 10:40
Message Nikolayashko "05 Dec 2008, 11:22
Message alienz "05 Dec 2008, 13:15
Message Nikolayashko "05 Dec 2008, 14:45
Message Vitalik1 "05 Dec 2008, 22:44
Message Stingers "06 Dec 2008, 10:32
Message alienz 06 Dec 2008, 16:53
Message Stingers 06 Dec 2008, 17:08
Message Oleg_X 06 Dec 2008, 20:26
Message legnuman 06 Dec 2008, 21:56
well, I do not know. I had an old Legnum with a mileage of 200 thousand - I also ate oil - I calculated the MSCs and changed them .. The oil consumption was zero .. Then I sold the car, the new owner had already hit 60-70 thousand .. The total mileage was already close to 300 .. and everything seems to be OK ..
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jurik1 26 May 2014
1 Repair of the cylinder head is a lot like it was there was a problem of the hydraulics passed after cleaning
2 Cleaning the pistons replacing the rings
3 Flushing the block from carbon deposits.
I will not describe everything so clear! I just created a theme so that people can see that the beast is not as terrible as it seems.
All that my wife had time to shoot was laid out for clarity, we can and who will be interested!
Post has been editedjurik1: 26 May 2014 - 15:10
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I made capital that week. Took 5 days in total. But if all the spare parts are already in stock, then there are only 2 days to do, this includes washing the unit and the head with chemistry. I still can't figure out why the Jedi haut. Apparently people have become so hands-on that they do not dare to repair the motor and only eliminate the consequences of its improper operation. Which ultimately leads to ridiculous engine replacements and the installation of an oversize liner / rings.
One thing pleases that there are still people capable of at least something with their own hands, for the sake of their beast.
 |
Video (click to play). |
Now on the subject: Yurik, you didn't check your head on the plane, just took it off, cleaned everything and put it on? She usually takes a little away anyway, not critical, but still.
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beertopeer37 (May 26, 2014 - 17:36) wrote:
bgg. I'll tell you more, most drivers, even in the engine compartment, will not be able to show the internal combustion engine and the gearbox))
but I don't even know which of these two categories is more adequate
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jurik1 27 May 2014
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jurik1 27 May 2014
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jurik1 01 Jul 2014
well done a short description with annoying trifles pointed out.
The question is, what is the letter (J) on the piston?
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jurik1 (01 July 2014 - 11:59) wrote:
well done a short description with annoying trifles pointed out.
The question is, what is the letter (J) on the piston?
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Be a friend, explain the first point. I didn’t understand a little bit.
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jurik1 03 Jul 2014
jurik1 (03 July 2014 - 12:04) wrote:
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Gomer_J (03 July 2014 - 11:05) wrote:
Be a friend, explain the first point. I didn’t understand a little bit.
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jurik1 05 Jul 2014
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Chery SMD184303
Oil scraper cap
I put these, 30,000 consumption 200 grams per 10,000, the caps had the inscription NOK
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Zheka 582 (09 September 2014 - 17:26) wrote:
Chery SMD184303
Oil scraper cap
I put these, 30,000 consumption 200 grams per 10,000, the caps had the inscription NOK
Mitsubishi Auto Lovers Club
rsl Apr 19, 2009 03:47 am
I got myself a Legnum cheaply with a knocked out engine. I started digging the Internet to decide what is better for a capital or a replacement for a contract one, but I never came to an unambiguous conclusion.
Tell me the amount of the capital together with spare parts and work, as well as the time frame in which it is being performed.
As an option, I found a contract engine with a hinged one for 22 thousand rubles, but it is in 1998, will it fit without alterations to the November 1997 legnum?
psI would be grateful for advice and answers on the topic, otherwise I’ve been sitting on the internet for a week looking for answers to my questions.
Igor981 Apr 19, 2009 11:04 am
rsl
There is no unambiguous conclusion, as such, and will not be. For it may turn out not the best contract engine, and not the best repair. When disassembling, it will be seen in what condition the piston is. If it is lifted up, or there is a lot of wear - a boring plus a new piston. If the bushings are turned, sharpen the shaft, repair bushings. In addition, the replacement of caps, oil seals, timing, all straps, so that it all works like a human and for a long time. The amount will depend on the disassembly results. In addition, HZ, what is the state of your fuel. I think contract capacity will be cheaper. Only he, too, needs to do a complete prophylaxis, and for this year, I would have changed all the elastic bands and belts with rollers.
I see no reason why the '98 capacity cannot fit the 97th car. Although, as an option, I just don't know them.
In general, I would defect the existing engine, and then I thought about what to do.
rsl Apr 19, 2009 11:57 am
Yes, I actually have questions about the high-pressure fuel pump, it seems like the second generation has gone from '98, whether it will stand up without alterations. On the MEK website I read that it is necessary to redo it when you only change the injection pump, and then the entire engine is replaced.
Well, and in pursuit of the second question is it possible to put the engine of 2001-2002? Wouldn't it have to install new brains and wiring for this?
Lancer01 Apr 19, 2009 11:57 am
rsl
Capital is not worth it for sure,
A new one will do, but it may not “fit” in detail, pay attention to the injection pump, if the new one has a different shape (for example, you have the first generation, but on a new second generation engine), then you will have to change the “scythe” next to the engine itself ”, Injector amplifier, comp. So look to make sure that is also available.
Evgen123 Apr 19, 2009 11:59 am
Lancer01 Apr 19, 2009 12:02 pm
4G93 was installed before 2000. , since 2000 went 4G94 (2 liters), you can change it, for the same, together with the "oblique", the injector amplifier, the computer ..
rsl Apr 19, 2009 12:07 pm
So I am afraid of this, as the amount will greatly increase. And if I capitalize, then I probably won't be able to pull it, because I can't feel it with one engine.
Plus, in the engine, the liners did not seem to crank, but some kind of shaft burst. The knock is strange, unusual .. not the same as I had on the 2JZ when the earbuds turned.
Even in the service they counted 50-60 thousand for the repair of the suspension. Is it really that expensive to replace it? Even in a circle.
ps I bought this legnum for restoration, for 80,000 rubles I would like to meet the 150,000 total price. (you need to fake the bumpers, tailgate and paint these elements)
rsl Apr 19, 2009 12:08 pm
Lancer01 »Apr 19, 2009, 12:15 pm
rsl »Apr 19, 2009, 12:25 pm
Lancer01 Apr 19, 2009 12:31 pm
I can follow. Saturday with you to go (I'll be in the city), I'll look for a steering rack for myself .. Only from the beginning I would like to look at your engine, maybe not everything is so serious.
rsl Apr 19, 2009 4:39 pm
set90202 »19 Apr 2009, 18:00
rsl »20 Apr 2009, 18:37
Today I was once again in the service, I was told that it is not necessary to change the scythe and the computer, only to modify the return lines from the injection pump, it is a little different. Otherwise, everything will fall into place.
Above, I was advised to buy an engine with a scythe and a computer, if the difference in the engine is 1 year, it differs only in the high-pressure fuel pump (the second generation is already installed), will it get up on electrics? If you need to change something other than 1 sensor, please describe in more detail
set90202 Apr 20, 2009 at 09:06 pm
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Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
The old forum has never had a photo report on the repair of fuel injection pump. I feel the time has come. While I will deal with the pictures (insert them on the forum), prepare:
1) a bottle of Galosha gasoline (clean, unleaded, so as not to be poisoned).
2) 6 sheets of good skin (I take some kind of Swedish one) 1000,1500,2000, each with 2 sheets (better aluminum oxide, sometimes silicon carbide, it is softer, written on the back).
3) a piece (approximately 300x300) of thick glass, at least 8mm, I have 10mm. You can ask the manager of any large supermarket - there are always broken windows.
If possible, it is best to use a tared sanding plate. Work with glass anyway on a flat hard surface. I have a marble slab.
4) cotton swabs, clean rags.
5) the keys are different, incl. under the "asterisks". Special key for pressure regulator.
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No key, don't even try to disassemble the regulator. No ersatz substitutes are suitable.
Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
Change, for a start, the filter at the entrance to the injection pump.
Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.
Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics
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On the image:
1) High pressure sensor
2) Discharge of a part of the high pressure into the return line
3) High pressure outlet to the fuel rail
4) Pressure regulator block
5) Block fur. drive
6) The fuel injection pump unit itself.
The fuel pump filter changed 2 times, before the winter-spring seasons. This is not a problem, I only started swimming for a week, I went to the Lipetsk Japanka for diagnostics - the verdict is pressure in the high-pressure fuel pump, respectively, the officials only have the replacement of the high-pressure fuel pump at a price of 35t / rub. on the old forum I read about the ability to extend the life of the pump
Let's continue.
After separation from the engine, we have a separate section of the regulator (removed earlier) and two sections (mechanical drive and injection pump),
fastened together.
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We unscrew the 4 long bolts holding the sections together and helping ourselves a little with a flat screwdriver, like a lever,
we separate them. It is better to flush the drive with gasoline and fill it with clean engine oil. Little oil, 3-4 tablespoons
spoons will still flow out through the oil channel hole. Rotate the eccentric shaft for lubrication.
Now, in fact, the injection pump.
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Using the E8 head, unscrew the two bolts under the "asterisk". We unscrew evenly, 3-4 turns each, pressing firmly
unscrew the cover by hand, because there is a rather strong compressed spring under it. We remove the cover and see.
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Well, to be precise, this is a photo of the 3rd generation injection pump, but they differ only in the fastening castellated nut.
In the second generation, there is no nut, and the inner bag is not compressed by anything.
Carefully remove and fold the rubber rings separately. Using a thin screwdriver and tweezers
we take out the ring located in the groove in the wall of the chamber well. Without removing the ring, we will not analyze it further.
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Using two flat screwdrivers, using them as levers, we take out the corrugation. With corrugation in general, we handle it carefully!
After the corrugation, we take out the plunger itself.
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It is better to put all the removed parts in a plastic container.
(ice cream bucket, small basin) filled with gasoline. I use a 1: 1 "Galosha" mixture for washing
with acetone.I carefully wash the glands with a stiff toothbrush. Especially the grooves of the corrugation.
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Once the plunger pair (crimp and center plunger) has been cleaned, a small but much needed test should be performed. Its result will show
in general, the expediency of further actions. It is necessary to salivate the thumb of the right hand well, put the plunger on it, with the pad on the finger, so that the finger is guaranteed to cover the central hole and put the corrugation on the plunger from above. In a successful case, the corrugation will not fall on the plunger, the air cushion will interfere. The resulting knot must be squeezed several times between the thumb and forefinger. Three times he has to spring back.
This effect indicates a satisfactory condition of the plunger pair. If the corrugation freely descends on the plunger and is removed from it (remember the central hole closed with your finger), then further actions (grinding the plates, dancing with a tambourine, reading prayers) will be completely useless. High pressure fuel pump for discharge.
Let's continue.
Suppose that we have complete order with the plunger pair. This means that you need to disassemble the pump further.
We take out a spring with a plunger travel stop from the well
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And, finally, “our charm-s-s-t” - three plates.
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Well, I don't think there is much to tell about the state of these. And so everything is visible.
For those who are not visible and incomprehensible, for those there are they, only after grinding.
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We take a thick glass, at least 8 mm, or better 10 mm, put it on something, also even and solid,
for example, on the desktop in the kitchen (hello to spouse!) and, applying successively, skins 1000, 1500 and 2000,
with circular and spiral movements, we remove all workings, saddles and cavities on two thick plates. Average,
thin plate, gently grind at once 2000th. AND NO PASTES. Grinding, polishing, lapping.
Here are the pluses of the new forum, excellent instructions. Thank you And at the same time the question: when warming up a cold car
in the area of the rear left wheel, away from the gas tank, some whistling is heard, this is normal or not.
Here are the pluses of the new forum, excellent instructions. Thank you And at the same time the question: when warming up a cold car
in the area of the rear left wheel, away from the gas tank, some whistling is heard, this is normal or not.
I can assume several situations - the neck of the gas tank is rotten and the intake air siphon quietly;
not a whistle, but a buzz - the pump engine dies, there is not enough gasoline in the tank, remove the back seat and listen to the flask
Thank you. I'm more inclined to think that the neck is rotten, the whistle is not even a whistle, but the hiss is like a wheel poisoning. Is it possible to inspect the neck without removing the tank?
Thank you. I'm more inclined to think that the neck is rotten, the whistle is not even a whistle, but the hiss is like a wheel poisoning. Is it possible to inspect the neck without removing the tank?
At a minimum, use a flashlight to shine through the filler hole.
I could be wrong, but from the lift, from below, removing the left wheel.
"Video stethoscope", there are many decent service stations, for examining the cylinder walls through the spark plug holes.
Oops. but how to determine what generation of injection pump is worth? ... on fault, can you? VIN: XMCLNDA2AWF049266
Oops. but how to determine what generation of injection pump is worth? ... on fault, can you? VIN: XMCLNDA2AWF049266
If the pump unit is located at the end of the engine, between the engine and the air filter box, then this is only
1st and 2nd generation.
Here's the first one.
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And if the pump block is located on the side of the engine, between the flap,
then this is the third generation, "tablet".
By VIN you can, if there is a guarantee that no one has changed anything
Actually, you are in the second generation.
what is the acceptable minimum plate thickness after grinding? and is there an order of the plates? Is it worth turning the pressure regulator on the injection pump (there is a hexagon in my block under the number 4 in the figure) and if it costs how much and in which direction?
you can read here, for a general development, so to speak
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what is the acceptable minimum plate thickness after grinding? and is there an order of the plates? Is it worth turning the pressure regulator on the injection pump (there is a hexagon in my block under the number 4 in the figure) and if it costs how much and in which direction?
You are unlikely to remove 0.1 from the entire package. There is no permissible (within reasonable limits), the wear of the plates is removed by the clamp of the top cover. And that is why between the cover and the body
a gap of about 0.5-0.7 mm remains. In especially "suspicious" cases, I put a 0.1-0.2mm copper foil ring on top of a wide corrugation ring (massive body). Order
the succession of the plates, of course, is and it is very important. I will not speak in principle, everything is clear there after a moment's reflection (well, you can't chew everything like that). Though,
I recently read on Meka's website, and laughed and got angry at the same time, the person just managed to put (I have no other word) inside the parts, twist everything and put it on the car.
And I spent a week figuring out why there was no pressure! And all this with claims! Regarding the regulator, there will be a continuation of the report. In the meantime, I'll say this, the factory position of the adjustment screw is
flush (under the cut) with the surface of the main plug, the one for which a special key is needed. And you can twist it only by connecting the tester to the pressure sensor. Necessary
set at 2000rpm 2.9-3.0v. When the pump starts to die, you can slightly raise the dropped pressure with this screw, again, only according to the tester. But, at the same time, it grows
pressure and high revs.
Of course, I am not a “deer”, but when I have never done it, I prefer to first learn about the intricacies and pitfalls, so as not to get into the situation later, in Lebedyan nobody wants to take my djidai, and since then I will have to do it myself and so as not to get paid.
Of course, I am not a “deer”, but when I have never done it, I prefer to first learn about the intricacies and pitfalls, so as not to get into the situation later, in Lebedyan nobody wants to take my djidai, and since then I will have to do it myself and so as not to get paid.
Will you wait until evening? There will be a continuation of the report. With assembly. No offense, if you do it carefully and think a little, you can't make a mistake. And friends are helpers with beer
close so as not to run.
There is a new pump, we bought it for 40,000. I will give it for 15,000r
Added after 18 seconds
2nd generation
Are you guys kidding me? 🙂 I saw the injection pump, probably more than the whole club put together 
And than the second generation from 3 (it is the 4th), I, as it were, know 🙂 But on the same 2.4 GDI Galantian seat for the injection pump drive is the SAME, because the head has not changed during the entire production time. So to put a third generation instead of 2 is quite possible, there are not so many differences. And you don't need to break anything, including your head.
Surprisingly, neither Vladivostok, nor Sakhalin Island, nor the cold city of Khabarovsk became the "homeland of repair" of direct fuel injection engines.
And what can we say about Penza, from where the pump (fuel pump) came to us GDI.
Fault "normal" - will not start.
But sometimes it can start, and then it works.
True, "troit" is a little bit, turnovers are "walking", but - it works.
It is necessary to repair, and for this it would be good to somehow check the sent parts for their performance, right?
Naturally, a "branded" or some similar stand for checking the injection pump GDI in Russia there is nowhere.
And in what way can you then check the sent injection pump and find a malfunction in it?
There is only one way, long and painstaking, but otherwise - how?
Only by installing the sent injection pump on the "donor" - an existing car with the same high-pressure fuel pump.
It is in this way - by substituting a high-pressure fuel pump on the "donor" engine, and all the parts sent for diagnostics and repair are repaired (for prices for such repairs - see the end of the article, a rather interesting note ...).
The injection pump, substituted for the "donor", began to work, but how - with the "swimming" of revolutions:
It is good that there was "some" experience, there were already certain "best practices" on this issue (why and why it can "pump" speed), therefore the type of this malfunction was determined quickly enough, having rechecked, of course, and according to the indications of a diagnostic scanner:
the notorious mistake got out P0190 , in the current characteristics it was clear that; the high pressure fuel pump has been "adjusted" to a pressure of approximately 8 Mpa.
Which means only one thing: the pump must be carefully sorted out, because it is not known what else could "adjust" those hands that are called "playful" in the environment of Diagnostics.
Well, "we take a brush and gasoline" ...
And only after a thorough bulkhead of the injection pump;
Number 2 in the photo shows exactly the place under the "hexagon", which "someone and once" twisted.
And he “wound” it to a pressure of 8 Mpa, at which the pump could not work stably and “pumped” the speed all the time.
But if only that was the fault!
Alas, the most important thing was still unclear: why and for what reason the engine worked normally, but if it was “muffled”, it might not be started back.
Agree that repairing in this way - when only "spare parts" were sent in the parcel, it is both difficult and dreary.
With many unknowns.
And none of the most "expensive" equipment will help if there is no Experience and that substance in the head, which is called "gray".
Describe your troubleshooting experiments?
Long what to say.
And so let's go straight to what we "stumbled upon" after searching:
Yes, you thought correctly, this is the so-called driver injector, an electronic device that is responsible for the operation of injectors.
Outwardly, when examining it, either "simply" with the eyes, and with the help of a magnifying glass, nothing was found. Everything is normal and nothing aroused suspicion: "paths" of a workable type, nowhere are there traces of melting, "swellings", there is no characteristic smell of "something" burnt out.
Let's remember what is written in the "manuals". There are direct instructions on how to check: for heating, for twisting, for water ...
Do you remember?
The rest, as you correctly thought, is "a matter of technology."
After a very careful and very careful examination of the board, the reason was found.
There was "non-alcohol" and something else that was eliminated with the help of a soldering iron and our respected diagnostician Andrei Yuryevich, and of course, a certain baggage of knowledge.
At the beginning of the article, it was promised in a note to tell about the prices for such repairs.
We tell in the words of Dmitry Yuryevich: from Moscow
"With nonresident repairs, we, to be honest," fly over "a little, because if you take the Moscow prices for such repairs, then they are very different and - in a big way. We just take into account their financial situation and, despite the fact that there is more work (well, imagine what it means to "substitute" the injection pump on the "donor" car, and how many times you have to do it), and so, despite the greater volume of work, the prices for "Out-of-town repairs" - below.
Here is such a selfless statement.
Decide for yourself how to perceive it.
probably one of the first to repair his 1999 Mitsubishi Carisma. 4G93 engine.It was like this: I arrived at the station to Sergei on the advice of friends (having visited a dozen more stations before that), the problem was that the cutoff occurred earlier and earlier every month, at that time the turnover did not rise above 2000-2200. After talking with Sergei and talking about my misfortune, he offered to measure the fuel pressure in the system, connected a multimeter (namely a multimeter, not a pressure gauge), explaining that the pressure of the NVD is checked in this way. On the screen of the multimeter, numbers ran up (HZ what they mean), Sergei said that it was necessary to flush the entire NVD and grind some plates there, I left the car after discussing the time of my appearance on the call. The next day they called me and said DONE, without specifying the details, I went to the station. My swallow stood near the box and hummed with its motor (as they explained to me later, the process of adaptation of the throttle was taking place). I received an offer to ride, leaving a secondary road, I gave it to a sneaker, I was extremely surprised by the dynamics of the car, it did not tumble so much even at the time of its purchase.
To summarize: The cutoff has returned to its rightful place, the car has become more high-torque, the consumption of 12-14 liters has dropped significantly. city 10 highway, the pleasure of driving is back.
P.S. For the work, I paid 3000 + 300 for the filter (I did not specify what they did there, and I had no time for that) almost a year has passed since the repair - the flight is normal.
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In general, such a situation - the car starts to stall after 5.7 minutes, in the tank you drain all the gasoline with oil, fill in new clean gasoline, clean the candles, add 1 liter of oil, again the internal combustion engine works well for five seven minutes, earlier with these engines it is didn't have. Frankly, I want to refuse. But it became interesting myself. I already found out that on this model the fuel pressure is 50 kg, the fuel regulator is electronic, In general, I am still sinning on the high pressure pump, I just don’t know its design. I think that only the one who faced such a problem can really tell
I have been doing them for many years, regularly GDI gives funny puzzles. There is no ready-made solution. Mixing of oil in the fuel system is possible. I am always scared more by cars that have come from where they could not be repaired. Solve the equation, the ratio of the frequency of arrival of such cars to you for a sufficiently long rowing with this case. No matter how complicated there is nothing, you will find all the information, if you decide to do it, on the mek1 website.
Location: Khabarovsk
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lrn a / f a b1 - 4.7%
Talking about a lack of fuel. The reason is most likely in the nozzles. It will not start right away.
idle pos. - off
pwr.steep.sw - on
This is the scanner, but lunch 😉
afs - 31.2 Hz. - something is not enough.
tps - 507.8 mV - regulate TPS
idle pos. - off - the same
brake bac.s - 0.0 Kpa
brake lamp sw - on
pwr.steep.sw - on - are these all glitches or what? The same X431 showed everything to me ..
egr step.mtr. - 233 step - some kind of horror
learn knock - 99.6% - does it happen?
It must be twisted while looking at the scanner. The norm is 640 mV. Sign XX will also appear.
Hydrach included.
According to these data, it turns out that at that moment:
1. turned the wheel
2. hit the brake
3.the air conditioner was turned on
Was it all that way or was it glitches?
There is only one problem, this is a poor mixture! The injectors must also be checked for performance. Perhaps they didn’t smoke, or already the forces of the khan 🙂
Is the pump, as I understand it, a seven-plunger pump? if yes, then the net on the feed should be checked.
The TPN can be corrected, but it will not have a strong effect.
For other trips like a switch, he or of do not bother, these are scanner glitches.
Location: Karaganda
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LexaSaratov wrote: 1. As I understand the problem, the XX mode is not turned on at the speed of XX?
3. and how to check TPS?
It must be twisted while looking at the scanner. The norm is 640 mV. Sign XX will also appear.
There is only one problem, this is a poor mixture! The injectors must also be checked for performance. Perhaps they didn’t smoke, or already the forces of the khan 🙂
thank you - made me happy)
1.How can I test the injectors for performance? what devices are needed? and how is it done at all?
with TPS, everything seems to be clear, but the adjustment is carried out on which engine? working or not?
and please tell me what else you can see (adjust) on the scanner, since you have to pay 500 rubles for each connection. (local diagnosticians do not boom-boom in such engines, but they take money for diagnostics regularly)
If there are 4 wires, then the lunch usually seems to be correct and the processor does not see it. Maybe the wire doesn't reach. You can check directly on the RTD connector. this is a contact near zero.
wires 4, I will find a contact next to zero and can set a voltage of 640 mV on it ?? and how to check whether the signal reaches the processor or not?
Thanks in advance . Alexei .
P.S. Yes, I almost forgot, during the diagnosis: I did not turn the steering wheel, I did not press the brake and the air conditioner did not work. it seems really glitches.
Location: Karaganda
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For this you need a stand, i.e. special equipment.
You wrote that you yourself washed the forrs. The question is how?
Just slurry through a syringe, enema, etc. - not very effective. Hammer efficiently in an ultrasonic bath. The stand and the ultrasound should be at a normal service station, but it is expensive - although where is how.
If you have 4 wires, see fig. TPS, idle switch.
You yourself washed the DZ. Please remove it again before adjusting. Check that it closes tightly or otherwise adjust with the stop screw, see Fig. DZ. But so as not to have a snack at the opening.
When the ignition is on, the extreme will be 1 pin - 5V, 4 pin - 0. The 3rd pin XX must be closed with 4 when the remote control is closed. Essno look with an ohmmeter without a connector or a voltmeter with a connector when the ignition is on, 3 contacts relative to the case. О в - DZ is closed, and with a slight opening, about 4V will appear. If contact XX does not close, loosen the TPS screws, insert a 0.5 mm probe (I don’t know the exact value - can someone tell me) between the stop screw and the DZ. We expose the TPN so that the contact begins to close and fix the TPN. We remove the probe, the contact must be securely closed. Then put the DZ in place, if the gasket is not very good, I would add a thin layer of sealant. It is better to set up, and then set DZ, tk. then it is difficult to get to the bottom screw of the TPR.
On the 2nd contact of the TPS, the voltage should be 0.4-0.6V, and with an open damper about 4.5V. It will not work to exhibit, because already exhibited on cont XX.
On the hot door we set by-pass XX.
Makasyaykin (08.21.2012 - 08:10) wrote:
the subject has our phones, it's probably better to call them, we rarely visit here.
we do almost everything, except for the body and automatic machines.
we repair exclusively MITSUBISHI cars.
Post has been editedMakasyaykin: 04/16/2013 - 12:00
As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
We are here
Only by prior call.
Makasyaykin (09/26/2013 - 14:39) wrote:
This is what it is, "pill" 3rd generation
As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
We are here
Only by prior call.
Just in case. Repair of all Jidai (GDI) and MPI engines, including Pajeromontero, Dingo, Pinin / Io, Lancer, RVR, etc.
All work except for body repair and repair of automatic transmissions (automatic transmissions).
There is also a new service for flashing the engine ECU (brains). Advantages: translation into Euro 2 (turning off 2 lambdas), turning off the EGR valve by software, a slight decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in dynamics.
All the details on the phone.
89223080915.
Geographically street Bakharevskaya first.
P.S. For vehicles only MMS .
Post has been editedNeos: 05/26/2016 - 23:28
As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
We are here
Only by prior call.
Just in case. Repair of all Jidai (GDI) and MPI engines, including Pajero3montero3, Dingo, Pinin / Io, Lancer, RVR, etc.
All work except for body repair and repair of automatic transmissions (automatic transmissions).
There is also a new service for flashing the engine ECU (brains). Advantages: translation into Euro 2 (turning off 2 lambdas), turning off the EGR valve by software, a slight decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in dynamics.
All the details on the phone.
89223080915.
P.S. For vehicles only MMS .
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Video (click to play). |
Hello! please orientate the price! Cleaning the forces 4G93T, remove the catalyst, flash the euro 2 sweat, turn off the USR.
You can in a personal! Thanks!
