Do-it-yourself repair of the 5th gear at checkpoint 21213

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the 5th gear at checkpoint 21213 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

12 - block of gears of V transfer and reverse;
13 - the axis of the intermediate reverse gear;
14 - intermediate reverse gear;
15 - washer of the guide plate;
16 - guide plate;
17 - body of the gear shift lever;
18 - ball bearing;
19 - spherical washer;
20 - spring;
21 - thrust washer;
22 - retaining ring

Lever and gear selector parts

10 - protective cover;
11 - flange;
12 - reverse blocking plate;
13 - spring;
14 - guide bar;
15 - a sealing ring;
A - risk

1. Flush the transmission and install it on the bench. Drain the oil and remove the bottom cover with gasket.
2. Remove the clutch release drive fork, and from the guide bush of the front cover of the gearbox - the clutch assembly with bearing and connecting spring.

23. Disassemble the input shaft (see fig. Details of the input shaft):

- remove the locking ring 7, the locking ring 6 and the spring 5 of the synchronizer;
- install the shaft on the press and, pressing the spring washer 2 with a mandrel 41.7816.4069, remove the circlip 1, and then the spring washer and bearing 3.
24. Dismantle the secondary shaft (see Fig. Details of the secondary shaft). Remove from the rear side of the shaft gear 11 of the first gear with a sleeve 12, hub 3 with a sliding clutch 4 of shifting I and II gears, gear 10 of the second gear together with a blocking ring 5 of the synchronizer ...

26. Remove the protective cover 10, lock and thrust rings 6 and 7, spring 5 and spherical washer 4 from the gear shift lever (see Fig. Details of the lever and gear selection mechanism).
27. Visually mark the location of the parts with respect to the risks (A), marked on the guide plate, in order to connect the parts in the same position during assembly (see Fig. Gear selection mechanism). Having unscrewed the nuts from the mounting bolts, disconnect the gear selection mechanism parts and remove the lever 9, its ball joint 4 and rubber O-rings 15.

Video (click to play).

1. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly.
2. Note that the idler reverse gear axle is fastened before the shafts are installed in the gearbox housing with a torque of 78 N · m (7.8 kgf · m).
3. Before installing the fifth gear and reverse gear fork rod into the crankcase, install the spacer sleeve on it.
4. The inner ring of the bearing is pressed onto the fifth gear and reverse gear block, and the outer ring is pressed into the seat of the rear cover.
5. The pinion shaft rear bearing is pressed onto the shaft to facilitate installation of the rear cover.

8. When installing the clutch housing with the front cover of the gearbox, the hole in the front cover should be located as shown in fig. from item 3.
9. Before installation, cover the working surface of the oil seals with Litol-24 grease.
10. When installing oil seals and bearings, use the following mandrels 41.7853.4028, 41.7853.4032, 41.7853.4039.

After reading the previous article on how understands the classic VAZ gearbox, in which we got acquainted with the process of disassembling and troubleshooting the checkpoint, you probably noticed that the article does not end with the traditional words “to assemble in the reverse order”. Because in fact, when assembling a gearbox, there are a lot of nuances, so we bring to your attention a separate article with a detailed description of the process. So, the checkpoint went through a troubleshooting, we purchased worn-out parts, and we proceed to assembly.
All parts are thoroughly washed and cleaned.

The assembled secondary shaft is installed in the gearbox housing.

We install the supporting P. of the secondary shaft assembled with a retaining ring.

Install the locking plate.

Fasten the locking plate with screws and always NEW castellated washers.

We turn the screws all the way with an impact screwdriver.

We install an oiled needle P. into the input shaft and put the shaft in place.

We put the 1-2 gear fork and put the 1-2 gear shift rod.

We wrap the fork mounting bolt. Tightening torque, Nm (kgf-m) 11.7-18.6m (1.2-1.9)

We put a blocking biscuit in the body. Suhari are different in length, we put a long one.

We put a blocking cracker in the 3-4 gear shift rod, lubricating it with lithol so that it does not fall out during assembly.

We put the 3-4 gear shift fork and tighten the fork fastening bolt.

We put a short blocking cracker in the case.

We install the scrubber into the housing.

We put the support P. of the promval and its distance ring.

We put the front P. of the scrubber assembly with a retaining ring.

We put the reverse gear.

Place the spring washer with the cone of the washer pointing towards the inside of the gearbox.

We put the remote ring.

Now we put the assembly of the 5th gear rod, the clutch and gear of the 5th gear and the intermediate reverse gear.

We put the slinger washer.

We put the speedometer drive gear, not forgetting about the ball.

We put the retainer balls and their springs in the gearbox housing.

Spring of the retainer 5 of the rod of the 5th transfer and Z.Kh. longer.

We put the gasket and screw in place the cover of the rod retainers.

We put in place and tighten the front and rear bolts of the blast shaft. The rear bolt is installed without washers.

We put the rear P. promval. It does not have a distance ring.

We put the rear P. of the secondary shaft and its distance ring.

Now we will put the front cover (bell).
We put the gasket.

Lubricate the input shaft with lithol.

We glue the spring washer to the bell with lithol.

We put the bell and tighten the fastening nuts.

Lubricate the parts of the 5th gear with oil a little.
Install the gasket.

We put the back cover and tighten the fastening nuts.

We put in place the bracket for fastening the pants clamp.

We put the gear selection mechanism.

Install the flexible coupling flange.

We turn on any gear, block the input shaft with a stopper and tighten the nut.

Press in the centering ring.

We put a stopper.

Image - Do-it-yourself repair of the 5th gear at checkpoint 21213

Lubricate the gearbox parts a little with oil, check the ease of rotation of the shafts and gear shifting.

We put the gasket. There is a protrusion on the gasket for a reference point.

We apply sealant to the cover.

We put the plug and the release, elastic coupling, fill with oil. That's it, the box is ready for installation.

Disassembly and repair of the gearbox is required for the following malfunctions.

1. Spontaneous switching off or indistinct switching on of gears:

- wear of holes for balls on rods, breakage of retainer springs;

- wear of the blocking ring of the synchronizer;

- breakage of the synchronizer spring;

- wear of the teeth of the synchronizer clutch or the synchronizer ring gear.

2. Increased noise in the gearbox:

- wear of gear teeth and synchronizers;

3. Difficult gear shifting:

- wear of the spherical hinge of the gear lever, lack of lubrication in the unit;

- deformation of the gear lever;

- burrs, curvatures, contamination of the stem seats, jamming of blocking nuts;

- contamination of the splines of the sliding sleeve and hub;

- deformation of the gear shift forks.

4. Low oil level or oil leak:

- wear of the seals of the primary and secondary shafts;

- loosening of the gearbox housing covers, damage to the gaskets;

- loosening of the fastening of the clutch housing to the gearbox housing.

The listed malfunctions can be caused by other reasons, the elimination of which does not require the removal and disassembly of the gearbox.

You will need: screwdrivers (two), replaceable heads "for 13", "for 17", an extension cord, a knob, keys "for 10", "for 13" (two), "for 17", "for 19", "for 30 ”, impact screwdriver, snap ring puller, hammer, universal pullers.

We drain the oil from the gearbox, remove the fork and the clutch release bearing.

one.Dismantle the flange of the elastic coupling from the toe of the output shaft ...

... … And a reversing light switch.

The gear selection mechanism can be removed from the vehicle without removing the gearbox. For clarity, these operations are performed on the removed gearbox.

3. Remove the cuff of the gear selection mechanism. Set the gear lever to neutral.

4. Using the "10" head, unscrew the three nuts securing the gear lever housing

5. We take out the gear selection mechanism.

... The connection is sealed with a gasket.

For disassembly and assembly of the gearbox gear selection mechanism, see the article - "Disassembly of the gearbox gear selection mechanism".

The Niva car is positioned as an off-road vehicle with increased cross-country ability. Due to this, there is a demand for the car. A solid load-bearing body is installed. The Niva 2131 is based on the LADA 4 × 4. Its tuning allows you to change the exterior, performance for the better. Since the mid-1990s. injection engines became available for Niva machines.

In addition to passenger cars, self-propelled vehicles are also produced under the Niva brand. In particular, this is Niva SK 5. This car is a combine harvester designed for harvesting crops. The machine runs on diesel fuel.

A VAZ 21213 car with an engine volume of 1.7 liters. can develop power up to 79 horsepower. Fuel consumption averages 10 liters per 100 km. As is typical for gasoline engines, there is a central injection system. Such vehicles should be refueled with AI-95 gasoline.

The Niva checkpoint (VAZ 21213) is mechanical, five-speed. The Niva's transmission has a permanent four-wheel drive. It should be noted the presence of a reliable gearshift lever extension on the Niva. Thanks to him, the speed changes are quickly carried out. The existing camshaft drive is a chain drive. The crankshaft includes several connecting rod and main journals. The crankshaft is durable, made of cast iron. The timing mechanism is closed with a lid. There is an oil filler neck here.

A transfer case is installed on the Niva 2121. Its peculiarity is that it has both an overdrive and a downshift. Increased is important to use if you need to save on fuel consumption. In the event that the movement takes place over rough terrain, a lower gear helps out. However, in this case, fuel consumption will increase.

The razdatka allows, if necessary, to disable one of the driving axles. The transfer case includes shafts, differential, gearshift clutch. The main breakdowns are expressed in the fact that its main components wear out over time, as a result of which, the box may overheat, there may be problems with the inclusion of the bridge. Repair of the VAZ 21213 gearbox is required if characteristic vibration from this unit began to be noted.

Thus, the popularity of the car is due to the fact that it has an all-wheel drive system. The speed box diagram shows that it contains a large number of component parts that interact with each other, ensuring excellent vehicle performance.

To carry out a full-fledged diagnosis, the high-speed box must be removed. As a rule, there is a need for this if vibrations, extraneous noise, oil leakage increase during movement.

How to remove the box? Before you start removing the gearbox, you must remove the transfer case. Without a viewing hole, repair work will be difficult to perform, for example, unscrew the cardan shafts from the distributor. The stabilizer is also removable. Removable air filter housing.

In order to remove the gearbox, disconnect the lever rod, clutch housing cover fasteners, propeller shaft, bolts, nuts, remove the bracket. The suspension of the power unit is adjacent to the body. To remove it, you must unscrew the fastening nuts.

To extend the working life of the VAZ 21213 gearbox, it is advisable to periodically check the level of the transmission fluid and change it in a timely manner.

It should be noted that the appearance of extraneous noise from the side of the gearbox is often a consequence of the fact that there is a reduced level of transmission oil in the system.

Mineral oil can be added to the machine. However, semi-synthetic and synthetic options have the best performance. The advantage of the latest types of oils is that the gears will be easily switched on even in winter.

Timely maintenance of the Niva box allows you to avoid a complete bulkhead of the checkpoint. Assembling all dismantled parts is a painstaking task and should be trusted by professionals. Replacing the gearbox input shaft bearing is a frequent procedure that is ordered from a service center.We drain the oil from the gearbox, remove the fork and the clutch release bearing (see the relevant sections).Dismantle the flange of the elastic coupling from the toe of the secondary shaft (see. Replacing the secondary shaft oil seal) ...The gear selection mechanism can be removed from the vehicle without removing the gearbox. For clarity, these operations are performed on the removed gearbox.Remove the gear selector cuff.Set the gear lever to neutral.Using the "10" head, unscrew the three nuts securing the gear lever housing ...… And take out the gear selection mechanism.The connection is sealed with a gasket.With a marker, we mark the relative position of the washers and the guide plate of the mechanism.Using the "10" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the reverse locking plate, holding the bolts with a wrench of the same dimension, ...... and remove the blocking plate.… Remove the bottom washer of the guide plate.Having taken out one guide bar with two springs, ...… Remove the guide plate from the lower end of the arm.Remove the top washer of the guide plate.Remove the gear lever housing.We take out the rubber sealing rings of the bolts from the grooves of the body.Remove the bottom gasket of the ball joint housing.Removing the flange with a protective cover ...... and the upper body gasket.Remove the retaining ring with pliers.Removing the spherical washer ...… And disconnect the lever and the ball joint housing.We install the gearbox with the clutch housing on the workbench.Using the "10" head, unscrew ten nuts securing the lower gearbox cover.... and a gasket.Using a screwdriver, through the hole of the gear selection mechanism, move down the plug of the 1st-2nd gear engagement fork (this will engage 2nd gear).Using the "13" key, unscrew the rear cover fastening nut located inside the box body.Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the five nuts securing the back cover located outside the case.We tap with a hammer on the cover lugs, while using a screwdriver (or a suitable piece of pipe with the output shaft seal removed) we hold the rear bearing on the output shaft.We move the cover off the studs and remove it by turning it clockwise (looking from the side of the secondary shaft shank) in order to prevent the cover from catching on the rods and the gear block of the 5th gear and reverse.To replace the bearing of the V gear and reverse gear block ...… Pry on the bearing rollers with a screwdriver.... and remove the rollers from the separator.Prying the outer ring of the bearing with a hook, ...... take it out of the back cover slot.Remove the thrust washer of the secondary shaft rear bearing.Remove the outer bearing ring with a cage and rollers.Remove the inner bearing ring.... and a slinger washer.To lock the shafts from turning, it is necessary to engage two gears. 2nd gear was engaged when the rear cover was removed. Before engaging reverse or V gears, release the plug for engaging these gears. For this…… With a “10” key, unscrew the bolt securing the fork to the rod.Pressing the fork down with a screwdriver, turn on the reverse gear.With a spanner wrench (head) "17" we unscrew the bolt securing the gear block for the V gear and reverse.... and remove the gear block from the splines of the intermediate shaft.Clamp the V gear and reverse gear block in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.With two screwdrivers we press the inner ring of the bearing of the gear block ...... and remove the inner ring.We remove the sleeve of the gear wheel of the V transfer, ...... the gear itself with the synchronizer blocking ring.Turning the fork for engaging the V gear and reverse gear on the rod to the secondary shaft, ...… Remove the reverse gear.Using a spanner wrench "13", unscrew the two bolts securing the retainer cover.Remove the cover and gasket.We take out the springs of the clamps (the spring of the V gear and reverse rod is longer than the other two and has a dark coating color).With a magnetized screwdriver, remove all three clips.We take out the V gear and reverse gear with a fork.With a magnetized screwdriver, remove the blocking cracker from the hole in the gearbox housing, which is located between the sockets of the crankcase for the rods of the 5th gear and reverse gears and III-IV gears.We remove the driven gear wheel of the reverse gear from the secondary shaft.We take out the key from the groove of the shaft.Using the “10” head, unscrew the bolt fastening to the rod of the 3rd-4th gear shift fork.A blocking cracker is inserted into the stem hole, ...With a magnetized screwdriver, remove the blocking cracker from the hole in the gearbox housing, which is located between the crankcase sockets for the rods of I – II and III and IV gears (this cracker is noticeably longer than the cracker located between the 5th gear - reverse gear and the III – IV gears) ...Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt fastening to the rod of the I-II gear shift fork.Using an impact screwdriver with a Phillips tip, unscrew the three screws securing the locking plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft.The screws are locked with special washers.Remove the locking plate.Using a 19 spanner wrench, unscrew the nut securing the axle of the intermediate reverse gear, keeping the axle from turning with the “24” wrench.We take out the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.Having unscrewed the nuts securing the clutch housing (see Replacing the input shaft oil seal).… Separating the clutch housing and gearbox.We remove from the input shaft a spring washer with a tapered surface (with a smaller diameter it faces the bearing).We clamp the spline part of the input shaft in a vice with soft metal jaws.With a spanner wrench "19", unscrew the bolt of the clamping washer of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.Remove the bearing clamp washer.With two screwdrivers we pry the front double-row bearing of the intermediate shaft by the locating ring ...When the bearing is removed, its rear inner ring may remain on the shaft.Press the inner inner ring of the bearing with two screwdrivers ...We take out the thrust ring of the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.By inserting a screwdriver between the ends of the bearing and the gears of the 1st gear of the intermediate shaft, we shift the rear bearing.We take out the outer bearing ring with a cage and rollers.Remove the inner bearing ring from the toe of the shaft.By sliding the intermediate shaft back, ...… Take it out of the gearbox housing.Prying the rear bearing of the input shaft with two screwdrivers on the locating ring, ...… Take out the input shaft complete with bearing and synchronizer blocking ring.Use pliers to open the retaining ring ...We support the end of the outer ring of the bearing on the vise jaws.With a hammer with a plastic striker, we strike at the end of the input shaft ...... and press the bearing.Use pliers to open the adjusting ring ...Having moved the blocking ring of the synchronizer, we unclench the blocking ring with pliers ...Removing the locking ring ...The blocking rings of synchronizers of other gears are removed in the same way.Remove the needle bearing from the front toe of the output shaft.We remove the forks of inclusion of I and II, III and IV gears.With two screwdrivers we pry the intermediate shaft bearing by the locating ring ...Having tilted, we remove from the gearbox housing the secondary shaft complete with gears, couplings, hubs and synchronizer blocking rings.Remove the bushing and the 1st gear gear assembly with the locking ring from the rear side of the shaft.We take out the bushing from the gear.Remove the synchronizer sleeve for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.Remove the synchronizer hub.Remove the 2nd gear gear assembly with a locking ring.From the front end of the secondary shaft, remove the synchronizer sleeve for III and IV gears.Clamping the secondary shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads, ...… Remove the retaining ring with pliers.Remove the spring washer (it is installed with the convex side to the front end of the shaft).Remove the synchronizer hub for III and IV gears.... and a gear wheel of the III transfer assembly with a blocking ring of the synchronizer.We carry out the assembly of the gearbox in the reverse order.
If, when removing the front double-row bearing of the intermediate shaft, its rear inner ring remains on the shaft, then the bearing must be assembled before installation. To do this, from the outer ring of the bearing ...... use a screwdriver to carefully remove the separator with balls ...... and put it on the inner ring (removed from the shaft).Insert the cage with balls and an inner ring into the outer ring of the bearing.When assembling the input shaft ...… Press the bearing onto the shaft with a suitable piece of pipe, resting on its inner ring.After installing the secondary and intermediate shafts in the gearbox housing, we press in the front and rear bearings of the intermediate shaft, the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and the inner bearing ring of the gear block.
The outer ring of the bearing of the gear block of the 5th gear and reverse gear ...… Press with a tool head of a suitable size (pipe piece) into the socket of the rear cover.We insert a separator and rollers into the outer ring of the bearing.
To prevent the bolt of fastening the gear block of the 5th gear and reverse gear from loosening, apply a thread sealant to the thread of the bolt.
For the convenience of mounting the rear cover, we install the rear bearing assembly on the output shaft.
It is advisable to lubricate all gaskets with a thin layer of silicone sealant.
When assembling the gear selection mechanism, we apply Litol-24 grease to the ball joint.We will show you how you can repair the gearbox of the gearbox on a NIVA 2131 car with your own hands. This malfunction cannot be fully called Niva's disease, but it occurs quite often. Breakage is always different, depending on the use of the machine. If the NIV is used by its immediate meaning, like an SUV, then mostly the second gear takes off. If the car often walks on the highway, then in most cases it is necessary to repair the 5th gear. If the car drives in the city, sometimes driving out mud, then 4th gear suffers, as in our case. 1st and 3rd gear also fails, but very, very rarely.The repair is shown in great detail, from convenient angles, you will also learn how to remove the checkpoint, put it back.Here is such a slurry from the shavings was found on the pallet:After disassembling the box, all bearings, a coupling, a primary shaft with a bearing, and a needle bearing were sentenced to replacement. The rest is still similar. New oil seals, gaskets are required to be boughtVideo repair of the gearbox (gearbox) on the NIVA 2131:

Vadim Novosibirsk wrote:
> Guys, teach you how to break the distributor during normal operation.
And you drive a week on asphalt with a locked differential - and everything will work out for you :-))
Why is there no one in the Fords
> driving?
Why is that? We're driving :-))). Photo :-))

True, trips to nature in Fords very often end like this.

Bubble67 (Veselyi poselok) wrote:

Yourself or a box? Better yourself. -).

I have a Niva since 1995, mileage 160 t.km. Due to illiteracy, he poured oil into the cork on the right side of the box, it is 2-3 cm higher than the standard one, and all the time I wondered why I have more oil in the box than is written in the book. I even drilled a hole in the tunnel on the passenger side to make it easier to fill in the oil.

Result Niva walked 160 thousand km in harsh conditions. and no hints of knocking out. True, I changed the primary bearing twice.

When I found a regular cork, I couldn't stop laughing for a very long time. although I am considered a pretty cool mechanic.

You say everything correctly. Only this traffic jam is difficult to get to.

Bubble67
Wrote:
I want to note (who knows Niva, he will confirm) also this: The most classic old 2121 had greater reliability and better traction than the modernized 21213. With the 06 engine of less power. Gearbox 2101 and gearboxes are also 2101 with a gear ratio of 4.3 (10:43). I ran into a lack of traction when I bought a long wheelbase 2131. It has an engine, 5 gearboxes and gearboxes 06 3.9 (11:43), as well as on usual 21213, i.e. high-speed.
—————————————
this is so and is especially noticeable when driving on dry, deep sand on VLi5 tires. Recently I sold 2121, there are two 2131 left, and I use them.

I rolled the cornfield up to 300 thousand .. the engine is still alive .. the siduha underneath me fell through the fuck on the way to the boat.box two one drives the second I do .. 5-2 illness .. a new block of gears with a synchronizer on the 2nd and a block of gears on the 5th enough for a while .. still the forks are bent 5-back. pouring oil by placing the car sideways on the deck. tagda everything is lubricated. if right then 5-ass dry when parsing

do everything yourself competently the box can be sorted out by a few.

4-stupas steers .. unambiguously. And 01 gearboxes in bridges. tady can climb where the eye looks. Well, the wheels are mudovye .. type mud terein. or bogera. and tady Niva Foreva will take you to the hole with perches and back. I am a pancake drain of gips on a rope peretyagall do not count

and another nuance if you put the nyvka on the curb when refueling, then you can pour 55 liters of bezny. funny but nice

2131 with a 4-stupa box walked quite decently, 5 was not needed - did not pull - wheels 235/65/15, but bearings on the hubs often flew, twice a year changing the rubber bands in the suspension.

> do everything yourself competently unit can sort out the box.

It is necessary to remove the intermediate shaft between the box and the transfer case, under it you will find an S30 nut with a lock washer. Try to tighten it, and if it goes, you must first unscrew and check the integrity of the lock washer - usually the mustache entering the splines are cut off. Replace accordingly if necessary ...

—Stas, when was the last time you saw that lock washers from 2101 were installed from the factory? How many Niv disassembled, especially in recent years, there is a spring washer instead of this washer with antennae, so it gives all the owners a crap. It is only the masters of the old school who change them to cheap ones, and in the services, they are spring-loaded and leave, after 10,000 km the process of rebuilding the box is repeated.

If I changed boxes with hand-outs so often, maybe you will give back old spare parts, otherwise I want to take it in stock, on the speedometer of my Nyvka it is already 110000 km, suddenly something will be covered soon.

what do they put from the factory
> lock washers from 2101? How many Neve disassembled, especially
> of recent years, instead of this washer with antennae stands
> spring washer, so it gives all owners crap. This
> only masters of the old school change them for cheap ones, and in
> services, so spring and leave, after 10,000 km the process of
> Bulkhead box is repeated.

Washers even began to be installed a little earlier, the box shank nut and the gearboxes are useful to put on Lactite or Marley.It was the case of the Russian Championship in Rally-Raids on the Niva, where these nuts were grabbed with a semiautomatic device.
What they don't say Niva is a very strong car, in 2001 in Luga out of 54 cars (the main backbone of Niva and Pajero, many Oise) Land Cruiser, Niva and Pajero reached the finish line, We are in Niva with 40 hours of penalties (generator broke down) 13- I don’t remember exactly the 14th place, the main pack did not even reach it.
By the way, I have 2 pairs of 4.7 in bridges I can screw up.

My hope :)))

Very comfortable car :))
Me and Misha-Skobar

> there these
> the nuts were fastened with a semiautomatic device.
I did that too.
> What they don't say Niva is a very strong car
That's for sure.
> By the way, I have 2 pairs of 4.7 in bridges I can screw up.
They are "collective farm" and under the 33rd rubber. It is absolutely impossible to drive with such pairs on standard and on asphalt - the consumption is 25 l / 100 km.

Bubble67 (Veselyi poselok) wrote:
> They are "collective farm" and under the 33rd rubber. Ride with such pairs on
> standard and on asphalt is completely impossible - consumption 25 l / 100
> km.
>

Video (click to play).

Of course, putting such pairs on the full standard, there will be no sense, the most budgetary option, a five-step (three-row row) and three-step pairs (4.1) are the most balanced option, I also like a four-step with a penny row and the same three-step pair in bridges, but here you need a spinning engine.
Cool photo reports you have! Sincerely, Vladimir.

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