DIY repair of abs audi a6 c5

In the instructions, we will repair the unit of the brand - Bosch. This is not the best of abesoks, and in addition, this is exactly what is installed on most brands.

for instance in Audi, Volkswagen, Ford, Skoda, Seat, Renault and even Mercedes come across.

Location of the ABS unit under the hood of the Audi A4

The problem starts with a pesky error and a full screen exclamation mark. Because of which nothing else can be shown by the tidy, it cannot until it fixes the problem.

Everything would be fine and it seems possible to drive, but when selling, the buyer often asks a lot of questions seeing this disgrace. And the most calm when on the electrics - everything is in order.

More often, a breakdown occurs in the electronic part of the unit.

The contacts there are thin and fragile. If the problem is similar to the one described below, with sufficient experience with a soldering iron, you will succeed.

We disassemble.
First, let's remove the electronic part. It is connected to the hydraulic (main) part by six bolts. Disconnect the supply cable, then crawl up and unscrew it with a convenient key.

12 contacts of the electro-module

Now you need to carefully open the plastic case of the module. We cut with a cutter along the seam, very carefully, without driving the knife deeply. You can touch the contacts inside.

The case has been opened.
We carefully examine the board under a magnifying glass and a bright lamp. Inspection of this unit revealed damage to two contacts on the left side going to the connector.

From the outside, everything seems normal.

By slightly moving these wires, they easily moved away from the contacts.

Gently solder the wiring into place. You can also solder a new common wire instead of these two. You need to solder very carefully - do not overheat the entire module with the board.

If in the soldering experience they are not strong - it is better to give it to an experienced friend or workshop.

We glue the case back - with good glue (not super).

We return the module to its place.

This instruction was used by: 10998 once.

In 1996, the concept of the second generation Audi A6 was presented to the public, and in 1997 mass production began.

The Audi A6 C5 is a business sedan with a very elegant design, which is quite rare for an Audi. The new car has become the face of the Audi line of models due to its design.

The new body received good reviews not only for its design appearance, but also for its very low drag coefficient for its class. Thanks to technology, the A6 C5 has become a full-fledged competitor to such cars as the Mercedes E-class, BMW 5 Series.

The interior of the Audi A6 C5 deserves exceptionally high marks, thanks to high-quality interior trim, and amazing comfort and spaciousness. For cars of this class, the A6 C5 has a very spacious trunk - 510 liters.

Depending on the equipment, you can choose your A6 C5 with petrol or diesel engines with turbochargers. They are characterized by unpretentiousness, reliability, and excellent dynamics.

These engines allow you to drive with a maximum speed of 194 to 250 km / h, and accelerate to hundreds from 7.6 to 12.6 seconds.

• 03.1997: The second generation Audi A6 (C5 platform) presented at the Geneva Motor Show.
• 09.1997: The Audi A6 2.5 V6 TDI (150 hp) is launched.
• 12.1997: Start of production of the Audi A6 Avant station wagon.
• 01.1999: Introduction of the new 2.7 Bi-Turbo (230 hp) and 4.2 quattro (300 hp) engines.
• 07.1999: debut of the "charged" version of the Audi S6 with a 4.2 quattro engine (340 hp)
• 10.1999: Modification of the Audi A6 1,8T is aggregated with a CVT with a continuously variable gear shifting Multitronic.
• 12.1999: The new 2.5 V6 TDI engine develops 180 hp.
• 05.2001: Restyling of the model.
• 07.2002: Start of production of the "hot" version of the Audi RS 6 with a 4.2-liter 450 hp engine.
• 04.2004: The Audi A6 (C5) sedan is discontinued.
• 05.2005: The third generation of the Audi A6 Avant (C6) goes into production.

The streamlined body contributed to the good aerodynamic drag of the car - 0.28. Even the majority of modern business-class sedans cannot boast of such a result.

The popular Car and Driver magazine ranked the second-generation A6 as one of the top ten cars in the world in 2000 and 2001.

The model received four stars for body strength (out of five possible) in the EuroNCAP crash tests.

Below will be listed the articles that were posted on the network by car enthusiasts of the Audi A6 C5, who encountered certain problems during its operation and managed to fix the car on their own.

I think this topic will be useful to all those who have problems with door limit switches. Basically, car owners of the Audi A6 C5 face such nuances.

Fresh air for air conditioning in the passenger compartment is drawn in through a dust and pollen filter, and the air flow is determined by the speed of the heater blower.

In most cases, due to the fact that over time in the bushings (pins) of the wipers, the grease dries out or is washed out with water, they begin to wedge.

This article will focus on such a warning as Service INSP, which lights up on the dashboard of the Audi AC C5 and other models after a given engine mileage (10,000 - 15,000).

In this article, you will learn how to remove and clean the crankcase ventilation system (CGV) on the Audi A6 C5, engine type 2.4 gasoline (ALF).

In view of the fact that Audi began to eat a lot of oil (topped up almost 600 grams for 1000 km), it was decided to disassemble a little of the engine in order to clean the elements associated with the intake: VKG, intake manifold, throttle valve, nozzles.

The braking system consists of a brake master cylinder, a vacuum brake booster and disc brakes on the front and rear wheels.

The fact is, I stopped holding the hand brake + the rear wheel pads did not want to release the brake discs.

I will show my version of the solution to the problem when the pistons of the brake calipers jam, which leads to heating of all elements of the wheel: the hub, discs, pads.

In this article, I decided to tell in detail how the engine oil is changed on the Audi A6 C5 and similar cars.

I decided to post a post in which I will tell you in detail about replacing the rear brake pads and discs on the Audi A6 C5 (sedan body).

What do you think, the way it is, on the Audi A6 the external CV joint and the boot change very easily and below I will show the whole procedure and the front of the upcoming work.

In this article, we will talk about how in a few minutes I managed to eliminate the engine oil leak from under the heat exchanger on the Audi A6 C5 body (2.4 petrol engine, ALF motor type).

This article describes the entire process of replacing the rear beam support brackets on the Audi A6 C5 (sedan body).

We will not pour a lot of water in the introduction, but go straight to the problem of replacing the spring or shock absorber of the Audi A6 C5 in front.

In this article, we will talk about the SVV secondary air pump, which for the majority no longer works, and if it is still alive, it emits loud sounds: a squeak, a hum.

In this article, we will go into detail on the step when you have to remove the front bumper, because this is the basis of any repair.

Today we will talk about how to remove the auxiliary drive belt on the Audi A6 C5, it is also called a poly V-belt or a generator, since it sets in motion.

First of all, we remove the plastic lining of the internal combustion engine. Next, remove the upper part of the air filter housing (latch 4) and unscrew the bolt by 10 to remove the housing itself.

It was decided that since I had already climbed to change everything in Audi, it was necessary at the same time to replace the bearing of the air conditioner, in fact it turned out that there was nothing complicated about it.

Here the process of removing the Audi viscous coupling is considered in one of the simplest methods.

The shortest, but at the same time informative instruction for replacing lamps and removing the front fog lamps of the Audi A6 C5.

This article will discuss the process of replacing the rear shock absorbers and strut supports of the Audi A6 C5.

Easiest way to remove headlights without removing Audi front bumper

It shows where the fuses are located, how to change them, and which circuit they are responsible for.

What to do if the rear power window lock button stops working. The button works, but is not fixed in the pressed position.

The most detailed and understandable guide to replacing head light bulbs on the Audi A6 C5 body, plus there is a video instruction.

Information for those who are faced with the problem of replacing headlights on a car Audi models 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 model year.

In a car, the starter is a mixed-excitation DC motor with an electromagnetic traction relay.

Depending on the model and the electrical equipment on the vehicle, alternators of different capacities can be connected.

In life, anything can happen and it can happen that for some reason you need to remove the radiator grill and the hood lock.

In this article, we will talk about how to remove the hood on an avdotya according to the German manual.

The clutch itself is located between the engine and the gearbox and is designed for.

How the pressure and driven discs are removed correctly, diagnosed and installed back.

Like any other system in a car, the ABS periodically requires maintenance, preventive maintenance and repair. Of course, all the electronic components of this useful system are well protected from external influences and rarely fail, but every motorist should be prepared for the fact that sooner or later they will have to roll up their sleeves and start preventive or repair work. Periodic self-diagnosis is not canceled even by the presence of a self-test system in each car.

It is necessary to pay attention to the prevention of ABS, since it performs a very important function in the car - it prevents the complete blocking of the wheels during braking. This, in turn, not only reduces the braking distance, but also allows the driver to maneuver during braking - without ABS, with locked wheels, any steering movement will lead to an uncontrollable skid of the vehicle, the consequences of which can turn into a disaster.

It is quite natural that do-it-yourself ABS repair is possible only if the problem is accurately identified. Any car with an anti-lock braking system also has a self-test mechanism that is activated when the ignition is turned on. If the system is faulty, an error code is displayed on the on-board computer. Having looked at the instruction manual, the driver will easily understand the current problem and appreciate the possibility of self-repair.

The entire anti-lock braking system can be conditionally divided into a central part, which includes electronic and hydraulic units, and a peripheral part, which includes wheel sensors. It is they who most often become the culprits of failures in the operation of the ABS. The second most popular cause of problems is worn wiring and poor connections that are unable to ensure the integrity of the electrical circuit.

The main part of the ABS is the electronics and the hydraulic unit. They fail quite rarely, and their self-repair is highly undesirable without the appropriate equipment and qualifications. If the reason for the interruptions in the wiring, terminals or the sensors themselves, which are installed on each hub, it is quite possible to do without a visit to the car service.

If it is almost impossible to repair the ABS unit with your own hands, then the wires and sensors are completely at the mercy of the driver. If the ABS indicator lights up frequently while driving, the first step is to check all the wires leading from the unit to the sensors. They should not have strong creases, damage to the insulation. If there are bare areas, such wiring must be urgently replaced - it is better to spend a little time on this than to find yourself in a critical situation without the help of the ABS.

The next step in self-troubleshooting of the ABS will be checking the sensors. To accurately determine their performance, you will need a multimeter, with which the resistance is checked on each of them. The normal values ​​of this indicator can be clarified in the car operation manual - for each system it can differ significantly. To check, you need to either lift the car with a lift, or alternately jack up each wheel.

Each sensor is a fairly simple induction coil, so there is no difficulty in understanding whether it is functional or not - if the resistance does not correspond to the standard, the sensor must be definitely replaced. The cost of a new one is not high, the sensor cannot be called a deficit either, and the procedure for self-replacement is not difficult even for a novice car owner.

Normally, after turning the ignition key, the ABS indicator on the dashboard should light up, and after 3 seconds go out - this indicates a successful self-test and no problems. If it continues to burn, or lights up while the car is moving, it is advisable to perform the following actions:

• park and turn off the engine;
• try to start the engine again after 3-5 minutes;
• check the voltage at the output of the battery with a multimeter - its minimum value should be 10.5 V;
• check the quality of the contact of the power wires, as well as the wires leading directly to the ABS sensors on the wheels.

To do the above, it will take no more than 5-7 minutes. If, after a cursory check of violations, it is not possible to identify the violations, you will have to seek help from professionals, or do it yourself, having devoted a lot of time to checking each sensor.

As practice shows, more than 80% of ABS malfunctions are associated precisely with sensors located on the wheels. They have to work in very unfavorable conditions, therefore, periodic problems that arise in their work are more likely a pattern. When starting to repair ABS with your own hands, you can go in two ways - just replace the sensors with new ones or restore the old one to work. In the latter case, you will have to rewind the coil located inside the sensor - this is a difficult and painstaking job, and without skills, a positive result is not guaranteed.

It is much easier and more reliable to replace the sensor. To do this, you need to remove the old one, which is attached to the hub with one bolt. To get to the attachment point, you will need to dismantle the wheel, remove the caliper and brake disc. To make it easier for yourself to remove the sensor, you can pre-treat the mounting area with WD-40. Install a new one in reverse order. Repairing the anti-lock braking system, in addition to replacing the sensor, should also include checking the wires; if damaged, they should also be replaced. Otherwise, even a new sensor will not be able to ensure the smooth functioning of the system, and the slightest short circuit will lead to its immediate shutdown. How to properly repair the sensor is shown in the video:

Everyone has an hour in joy, I have a problem of this nature AUDI A6 C5 V-2,4 tiptronic 1998g.v. The lamps on the dashboard ABC and the EXCLAMATION MARK started to light up, respectively, when all this was on, the ABC and antibuks did not work. Initially, in the morning I started up and everything worked when driving for some unknown reason, the lamps lit up, after a while, for some unknown reason, the lamps went out and everything started working (here Such a mess THAT WORKS THEN NO). In the end, the lamps on the ponel began to burn constantly. A couple of days ago I put the car in the parking lot and did not start. In diagnostics, the computer does not see the ABC block. Everyone says either to change or re-solder the block. Tell me what to do and if there is a wiring diagram, then share it.

Look here, this topic has already been discussed a hundred times. Read the topics carefully.

I will give one advice, since I myself faced such a situation, the simplest and surest way to solve this problem is to replace the ABS unit with a new one, either already repaired, or to give yours for repair, respectively, where they give a guarantee! To repair this unit yourself, you need special equipment and a microscope.

Thank you very much, I already figured it out

to lech: Good day. Yes, this is a common disease, we tried to reveal it as much as possible on our forum. So your problem was solved?

Yes, they really removed the ABS unit, opened the covers and found that the WHITE CONTACTS (THREADS) were disconnected from the connector (where the soldering was). After that, ABS and antibuks go out (it seems like a test passed) After which they light up again and together with them the EXCLAMATION SIGN starts to burn

to lech: See gauges. I don't exclude it. that the block will have to be reflashed.

in fact of the matter . we looked at the tester and it turned out that all the sensors work, even rolled forward and backward. every one of them gives promises. I want to go to another place. I got out the incorrectness of the electromagnet relay a couple of times and error 1201 (NO EXPANSION ON THE SCANNER)

your error is deciphered like this

01201 - ABS Valves Supply Voltage / ABS Valves Supply Voltage.

The ABS system of the Audi A6 ensures better vehicle stability during hard braking and when driving in difficult road conditions. The operation of this system is the regulation of the pressure in the brake circuit depending on the speed of rotation of the wheels, which is recorded by the sensors. The system consists of many units, each of which plays an important role in its operation.

In particular, the ABS control unit receives signals that are sent to it from the speed sensors located on each wheel and from the brake signal switch. Thanks to these signals, the pressure in the hydraulic drive of a particular wheel is controlled. The control unit can independently carry out diagnostics and memorize errors. When these occur, the control lamp on the instrument panel lights up, and an error code is entered into the memory, after reading which you can find out what exactly the malfunction is hidden or which node has failed.

Whatever it was, but there are cases that during operation it is necessary to repair the ABS unit Audi A6. In this case, there are two options: contact a service center or repair yourself. For those who are versed in electronics, why not do this. For example, a problem has arisen: it is impossible to read errors with VAG-COM.

So, first of all, you need to remove the front left wheel and wheel arch liner. Next, remove the washer tank and the hydraulic fluid tank. Then we disconnect the connector of the ABS electronic unit, which consists of two wires. In order to remove the block itself, you need to unscrew six bolts. As a result, the hydraulics remain on the vehicle and the electronics are removed.

To open the block we cut off the lid, for example with a sharp knife. This action must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage anything and so that nothing gets inside. Next, you need to find 2 thin wiring, which are in the middle, and check their contact, which will most likely be unreliable or even absent. To restore the contact of the site, it is necessary to clean, degrease and solder thin copper wire to the site and to the wires themselves. No extra pieces should be left.

The cover is installed in its place. This can be done in any way, for example using hot melt glue. The block is installed in the reverse order. The results of the work carried out are checked by VAG-SOM.

Self-repair of ABS. result 50/50