DIY abs repair volkswagen b5

In detail: do-it-yourself abs repair Volkswagen B5 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

REPAIR UNIT ABS 8E0 614 111B VW PASSAT B5. and not only, the design of ABS blocks is in many ways similar to other blocks and the repair of these blocks is often similar, so if someone has an ABS block, this article can help fix this situation with your own hands.

SYMPTOMS: If during the diagnosis there is no connection between the diagnostic equipment and the ABS unit (the computer does not see the unit) or an error pops up 01203 - Electrical Connection between ABS and Instrument Cluster 03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent

When the car is running, the ABS and STOP lamps (!) Are constantly lit or periodically lit and the buzzer sounds three times.

ALL Operations described in this article are for informational purposes only. The authors do not bear any responsibility for the result of your self-repair. The ABS unit is part of the braking system, according to the traffic rules of the Russian Federation, any intervention in it is prohibited.

If you do not have sufficient skill and experience in repair, then I advise you not to do what will be described in this article.

Using the described method, several units were repaired, which function and work perfectly.

The ABS unit itself usually consists of two parts, an electronic unit and a valve body.

This is how it looks on the car.

I would like to point out that if your ABS electronic part fails, this does not mean that the brakes will disappear “no”, the car will work, drive and brake like an ordinary car. only the ABS, EDL, ESP systems will not work. If you even remove the electronic part of the ABS unit from your car, then you can safely drive it, just keep in mind that some systems are not in order. And do not forget to cover the disassembled parts with something to protect from dust and dirt.

Video (click to play).

We start repairs and remove the electronic unit from the car, for this you need to: Jack up the left wheel, remove it and put some kind of support for safety, because you will have to crawl under the wheel arch

We remove, if there is a fender liner, unscrewing the screws, then we remove the washer tank, it is fastened with three M6 bolts, two from the bottom and one under the hood.

Carefully move the barrels to the side. and remove the connector from the electronic unit.

There is a return pump connector under the electronic unit, remove it. Using Torx T20, unscrew six screws and carefully remove the ABS electronic unit from the valve body

Then you need to carefully cut off the cover of the block, for this we use a cutter or some suitable object, scratch grooves on the plastic in all accessible places along the entire perimeter of our cover at the end. Its thickness is about 2 mm. Be very careful and watch carefully so that your cutter does not jump off, and does not fall inside and damage the block there.

When you make deep grooves try to take a flathead screwdriver and slightly pry the cover on the other side of the main connector. The cover should easily break off from the body.

After we removed the cover, we will see a board with radio components inside and covered with some kind of jelly-like substance.

Do not under any circumstances pick this substance, as there are

small parts and conductors. you may damage them and the unit will become unusable.

The dimensions of our box in which the board is located are 70 mm x 83 mm.

Now we take scotch tape and something else and close that part of the electronic board in which we will not do anything, so as not to damage anything there. we leave only the place where the board is connected to the contact pads on the body of the block itself,

Somewhere in the middle of the contact pads, we will see that the board is connected by two thick wires with the contact pads on the block case. If you take a needle and shake these wires, we will see poor contact from the side of the case.

This is the big drawback of these blocks. Now you need to carefully take some thing with which you can remove the substance from the contact pad, where we will solder. Remove the jelly carefully, the conductors there are very thin, they can be easily damaged. After you remove this jelly, you need to tin this contact pad on the block body.Then we take a wire (copper) 10 centimeters long, 0.3 thick and solder it.

Then we take and service the conductors that go from the ceramic board in the place where they have the maximum distance in height from the board. Carefully push the soldered conductor between the silver conductors and solder everything into one piece, while ensuring heat dissipation of the copper conductor from the contact pad. This is necessary so that the conductor does not get unsoldered from the contact pad. Now take and carefully cut off the remaining wire.

When all this has been done, then for self-satisfaction we check our unit for operability. We take the electronic part and attach it to the valve body. until screwing, we connect both connectors and turn on the ignition. If there is no buzzer and ABS light and (!) In order, then we have completed the work at 5. Now you can collect everything and put it in its place. The lid that was cut off needs to be glued with eboksidkoy or poxipol.

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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Wed 27 Nov 2012

Category: Auto electrician

Basically the design of all ABS blocks and their repair is in many ways similar to other blocks, so if yours is broken ABS unit then, in this article we will look at how to repair it do it yourself.
Here are the symptoms: - if, when connected to the diagnostic connector, there is no connection between the computer and the ABS unit, or an error may pop up:

01203 - Electrical Connection between ABS and Instrument Cluster
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
When the car is running, the STOP (!) Or ABS lamps periodically light up or light up periodically and the buzzer sounds 3 times.

All operations that will be described in this article are for informational purposes only.
The ABS unit is a part of the brake system and according to the traffic rules, any intervention in it is prohibited.
Our recommendations ...
I want to preface you that if you have never analyzed anything, then you had better not do this ...
Several units have been repaired using this method, and they all work fine and function.

So the description itself ...

Any ABS unit usually consists of 2 parts, the valve body itself and the electronic unit. The ABS unit is a very clever thing, which even if it fails, then you will in no case lose the brakes, no, they will work in a simple mode, bypassing this unit. Even when you take it out of the car and then you can safely sit down and drive and the brakes will work ...

So the repair itself ...
We remove the electronic unit from the car, what is needed for this: We jack up the wheel on the left side, remove it and substitute some piece of wood or bricks for your safety (you will have to climb inside under the wheel arch)

We remove the wing liner, of course, if there is one, then we unscrew the washer reservoir, it is screwed on with 3 bolts, from the bottom 2 and under the hood 1.
Now we carefully move the washer barrels to the side ... disconnect the connector from the electronic unit

There is a return pump connector under the abs electronic unit itself, we also remove it ...
If you have a Torx T20, then it is better to unscrew 6 screws for them, then remove our ABS electronic unit from the valve body

Now we arm ourselves with a cutter or something similar and carefully cut off the block cover (we scratch a little along the plastic case, along the entire perimeter, make grooves in the cover at the end, as in the figure). Its approximately thickness is two millimeters.

When you poke the whole thing through))), then take a flat screwdriver and try to pry the cover, only on the side where the connector is, and on the other. With such movements, we will break it off from the body. When you break off, then inside you will see the board itself, filled with some kind of crap that looks like jelly ... We don't pick anything there, there are very small radio components on the board and God forbid that you hook it ...

The dimensions of this box are 70 x 83 mm.

Now, for caution, take a tape and glue a part of the electronic board, leaving only a place where the contacts on the board connect to the contacts on the site of the block itself.

Approximately in the middle of the contact pads there are two thick wires that connect the board to the contact pads on the block case. Now if you take, for example, a needle and slowly shake those two wires, then you will see poor contact ... (in most cases from the side of the case)

So we found that problematic place that most ABS units suffer from, now we take a soldering iron and solder all the joints. Just remove the jelly first, carefully and slowly ... If the place cannot be soldered normally, then take a wire about ten centimeters thick and about 0.3 thick and solder it. Cut off the rest of the wire as you solder it.

I hope you will be more careful ...

When finished with the soldering of the wires, then you can check the performance of our unit directly. disassembled, so to speak, you just need to attach its electronic part to the valve body, do not screw anything, connect the connectors and turn on the ignition. If everything is in order, then there is no buzzer and the lights show. that everything is in order, then you did everything right ... Now it remains only to collect everything, and glue the lid with some kind of eboksidka. That's all there is to it, I think that such a repair is within the power of everyone ... Good luck.

Note. The hydraulic modulator and the ABS pump are made in a single housing and cannot be disassembled.

1. Remove the hydraulic modulator with the control unit.

Cars with ABS / EDS / ASR / MSR Bosch 5.3

4. Unclip the ABS pump wire from the clamp (arrow B).

6. Check the integrity of the seal (3)
7. Protect valves and solenoid coils from foreign matter.

Cars with ABS / EDS / ASR / MSR Bosch 5.7

10. Check the integrity of the seal (3).
11. Protect the valves, solenoid coils and contact springs (2) from foreign particles and dirt.

Assembly
12. Remove traces of oil or water from the modulator surface. If there is a lot of oil or water, remove with compressed air.
13. If you find scratches on the sealing surfaces, replace the modulator.
14. Use new screws to secure the control box according to their length.

Cars with ABS / EDS / ASR / MSR Bosch 5.3

16. Tighten the mounting screws in the sequence shown. Tightening torque: 2.6 Nm.

Cars with ABS / EDS / ASR / MSR Bosch 5.7

18. Make sure that the pins protrude above the level of the seal (2) by 0.8-1.0 mm (when pressing the pin, springing should be felt).
19. If you find a discrepancy in one of the points, replace the control unit.

21. Tighten the mounting screws in the sequence shown. Tightening torque: 3.0 Nm.

In the instructions, we will repair the unit of the brand - Bosch. This is not the best of the abesoks, and in addition, this is exactly what is installed on most brands.

for instance in Audi, Volkswagen, Ford, Skoda, Seat, Renault and even Mercedes come across.

Location of the ABS unit under the hood of the Audi A4

The problem starts with a pesky error and a full screen exclamation mark. Because of which nothing else can be shown by the tidy, it cannot until it fixes the problem.

Everything would be fine and it seems possible to drive, but when selling, the buyer often asks a lot of questions seeing this disgrace. And the most calm when on the electrics - everything is in order.

More often, a breakdown occurs in the electronic part of the unit.

The contacts there are thin and fragile. If the problem is similar to the one described below, with sufficient experience with a soldering iron, you will succeed.

We disassemble.
First, let's remove the electronic part. It is connected to the hydraulic (main) part by six bolts. We disconnect the supply cable, then crawl up and unscrew it with a convenient key.

12 contacts of the electro-module

Now you need to carefully open the plastic case of the module. We cut with a cutter along the seam, very carefully, without driving the knife deeply. You can touch the contacts inside.

The case has been opened.
We carefully examine the board under a magnifying glass and a bright lamp.Inspection of this unit revealed damage to two contacts on the left side going to the connector.

From the outside, everything seems normal.

By slightly moving these wires, they easily moved away from the contacts.

Gently solder the wiring into place. You can also solder a new common wire instead of these two. You need to solder very carefully - do not overheat the entire module with the board.

If in the soldering experience they are not strong - it is better to give it to an experienced friend or to the workshop.

We glue the case back - with good glue (not super).

We return the module to its place.

This instruction was used by: 11024 once.

call vw disassembly, phone numbers and addresses, see here

and where did the diagnostics take place?

Initial post from fix
Yes, I’ll tell you for sure tomorrow. H 111

First, you need to cut off the cover that covers the electronic part of the ABC unit.
Sawing is more convenient with a hacksaw blade, just try to prevent the blade from going inside the cut by more than 5-6 mm.

The block is shown with the lid already sawn off. By the way, completely, you can not carry it with you, just unscrew (6 torxes for 20) the electronic part.
Just remember which side the pressure springs are, under the valve coils.
Then you will see this in front of you:

Do not touch the compound with your fingers. And don't look that there are a lot of plastic shavings, this is one of my earliest experiences in repairing :-)
The point of the problem is shown in a blue circle. Everything has already been repaired here.
The mass of the board fell off, from the gilded cotact.
Previously, I tried to just solder the gap in place. (In this case, for example) It's terribly inconvenient, and a couple of times, I damaged the adjacent conductors.
Alternative places for soldering to the minus to the board are marked in red.
The guide on the right is the most convenient point. Build up, guess what?
The main thing for you is to return the mass to the crystal.

Volkswagen Passat B5 this novelty saw the world in 1996 and surpassed its predecessor B4. Modern electronics and an improved engine have brought this car to the top in sales. Three extras and a large interior are impressive.

ABS is an anti-lock braking system that improves the level of active safety of the machine. It consists of three main components:

electronically controlled unit
sensors for wheel speed
modulators, which, using pulses, change the pressure in the brake line

When the car picks up a certain speed, the ABS automatically checks its functionality. If the warning light blinks, then it is necessary to carry out a small repair of the Abs Passat B5 unit.

Faulty fuses can be considered a very common breakdown. If the light bulb shows a malfunction, then the first step is to check the fuses. Perhaps the contact has come off or the fuse has blown. It is easy to fix by installing a new one, besides, buying a fuse is much cheaper than paying for the repair of the entire abs block vw passat b5.

Damaged abs connectors can be another common cause of the emergency light coming on. You need to take a good look at all the connectors. They may have scuffs or dirt got into them, if there are any mechanical damages on the touch sensors. This problem alone will not cope. Yes, and climbing into the abs yourself in order to repair the abs passat b5 block is prohibited by law.

Read also: DIY nokia 206 repair

The best choice for such repairs would be the NIVUS technical center in Moscow. This is a professional service with affordable funds. By contacting this service, you will have the opportunity to observe the repair process. You don't need to run around looking for parts or wait for them to arrive via the Internet. We have our own warehouse of parts purchased from Volkswagen branded factories. Here you can get high-quality and inexpensive repairs for the Volkswagen Passat B5 abs.

There is no need to risk your health and the lives of loved ones. If you received a warning about a malfunction, immediately contact the NIVUS technical center. Here you will be helped to make an abs repair in the Passat B5 model.It depends on the ABS whether you can stop the car in time during strong and sharp braking and stay alive. Take care of yourself in advance.

The technical center "NIVUS" carries out complex repairs and maintenance of various models of cars of the Volkswagen brand (Volkswagen).

We offer a high-class service at an affordable price, so our customers, after servicing and repairing Passat b5, recommend us to their friends and acquaintances.

The price of repairing abs Volkswagen (Volkswagen) Passat b5 is 725 rubles. You can also look at the prices for other works here (in the price list on the website, the list of services with prices is not complete).

Well, you are fucking lazy.

The scanner does not repair a car - the person wrote:

Give someone a picture on the pinout of the ABS connector?

block number 8EO 614 111AH

Give someone a picture on the pinout of the ABS connector?

block number 8EO 614 111AH

I can't understand, on the sensors, the resistance of 1.2 ohms swears at the front left, such as an open circuit, probably the block was jammed when soldering

View Full Version: ABS sensor replacement

litter if the button accordion, I did not find the specifics on the search. changed the left front ABS sensor, the wire was cut off, which caused the short circuit of the sensor to come out. with great difficulty, I picked out the old one (I regretted that it was not at the service station), I had to break the old sensor, break the body with a screwdriver, and pull it out in parts. they could not just make it on the thread. but that's not the point. I read a similar topic, they say either to watch when the speed appears with a wagon, or experimentally - I drove, squeaked, still knock and still drive, and so on until the victorious. shoved the new sensor, again with difficulty, with a hammer. I turned the wheel on the spot, pressed the brake - the wheel is spinning, there are no errors. I erased the mistake by the WCC, I thought everything, but it was not there. after 20 meters, the error caught fire again. and picks at every bump and turn. right now the error is: VAG-COM version: Release 311.2-N Controller number: 8E0 614 111 Component and / or version: ABS 5.3 FRONT D21 Coding: 0273004132 Service code: BB 24303 1 Faults: 00283 - Front left wheel speed sensor-G47 35-00 - - the question is how to pressurize the sensor, and which group to watch in the ABS measurements in order to see the speed from this (and other) sensors? please help me Added after 1 hour 15 minutes 56 seconds:

people, tell me which group of measurements to watch .. 001 shows a speed of 1 km / h, other groups up to 5 give errors

vano25 1. A serviceable sensor and serviceable wiring do not cause an error.

2. Watch the speed in the first group, without accelerating above 20 km / h. All four numbers should be roughly the same.

about item 1, what does this mean? faulty new sensor, or shorted out during installation? to shoot and call for resistance?

what does this mean? Faulty sensor circuit - wiring - ABS control unit.

in short, I broke a new sensor .. otherwise, in any way, do not stir it up and do not pull it out. and stayed there. more precisely, half with the rod broke off safely and half got stuck there. and the copper mandrel where it is inserted is jammed now. In general, the thoughts are the most sad, right up to replacing the hub, because it is not normal to install a new sensor so that it goes back and forth. so what not to install, do not pull out the old one! I don’t know, I’ll try to pull it out tomorrow. but one horseradish will not replace the copper mandrel most likely. what do you advise?

vano25 How do you change the sensors there? Is it a scrap? In short, I broke a new sensor .. Why did I break a new one if I didn’t pull out the old one? up to replacing the hub What does the hub have to do with it? Can it still be a steering knuckle? but one horseradish will not replace the copper mandrel most likely. what do you advise? now, of course.

Remove everything piece by piece, order a new copper plate and put a working sensor on it.

but not with crowbars, that's just the point. at first I tried, as if in my mind, to shake him by the plastic head. then read the confa, slipped the key on 17, under this head. by the way, the key for 14 will fit on it. but this did not give much effect, as a result, the plastic cover broke off and the core flew out with it. it's in the first sensor.inside there was a stainless steel sensor body, which he scraped off with a screwdriver and a hammer, tapping everything. I cleaned everything in the hole in this one, everything seemed to be clean, but the new sensor was not so easy to put there. He got stuck somewhere 1 cm deep again, which was impossible to pull out, well, I already decided to finish it, not completely true. the signal did not appear. I pressed it to the end, but it did not give an effect (maybe during the installation process, I already turned my head relative to the body - I don’t know, now I can only guess).

today I tried to pull out a new sensor without damage, and again broke it 🙁 I don’t know how, I already cursed my whole idea. does not climb out and that's it.

vano25 Greetings, for consultation and general development - how much does the sensor cost now? it's just that I periodically get an error “open circuit of the right front sensor (sporadic)”. So I think about what to prepare for, one thing pleases that it is not the ABS unit itself that is buggy.

Hi, the copper mandrel where it is inserted is jammed now This part is considered a one-time use [-X

Take a look at this page and don't be afraid that it says Superb, it is made on the Passat B5 chassis. : - $

vano25 how much does the sensor cost now?

Hey! Literally a month ago I changed this sensor. The original is expensive. Recognized 😳 1500 re / used during parsing. New neorig. a guy I know ordered for 750 plus the sleeve I don't remember how much. The old sensor and the sleeve were knocked out, gouged out, etc. But the knuckle was removed from me. also changed the hub bearing. I cleaned the seat for the sensor with medium-sized sandpaper. Then I neatly installed the bushing and the sensor itself just as neatly and everything works. Yes, there are notches on the CV joint from which the sensor reads the speed. The gap in Ioemu I pushed out somewhere around 2 mm. It seems to work and does not issue errors.

In general, without removing the fist, the task of changing (removing the old one and putting on a new one) is greatly complicated.

Hi, the copper mandrel where it is inserted is jammed now This part is considered disposable [-X did not know about disposability. and there is some kind of lubricant written there. I think it will be necessary to smear with oil or grease, and that's enough. Scrudge In general, without removing the fist, the task of changing (removing the old one and putting on a new one) is greatly complicated. I realized this at a high price, unfortunately 🙁 by the way, the abs sensor, without a pad wear sensor cost 1250r in a Euro car, but it's still a shame for the work done and the broken sensor. and to remove the fist - to unscrew the 3 levers and the CV joint - isn't it too gemmoroinous? The old sensor and the sleeve were knocked out, gouged out, etc. But the knuckle was removed from me. also changed the hub bearing. I cleaned the seat for the sensor with medium-sized sandpaper. Then I neatly installed the bushing and the sensor itself just as neatly and everything works. Yes, there are notches on the CV joint from which the sensor reads the speed. The gap in Ioemu I pushed out somewhere around 2 mm. Bp

I similarly knocked out and picked out. a comb is put on the cv joint, which also plays an important role, and if it is closed, it must be replaced. and the last question - how was the 2 mm gap set?

I think it will be necessary to smear with oil or grease, and that's enough. The manual contains a special non-stick grease G000650, so that later, if necessary, everything can be easily removed without hammers, use at least graphite 😳 and how was the 2 mm gap set? If everything is done correctly, the bushing and the sensor are inserted all the way to the stop with a slight right-left rotation, the gap will be established by itself. If the sensor is not inserted by hand, then you need to completely clean the bore hole from dirt and rust, and blow it out. You don't need to score anything. In case of contamination, the rotor comb can also be carefully cleaned through this hole with a thin steel spoke without removing the steering knuckle. In general, without removing the fist, the task of changing (removing the old one and putting on a new one) is greatly complicated.

This is of course yes, if before that the ABS sensor was hammered into the steering knuckle with a hammer and without lubrication: str:.

2Mon and the rest, thanks for the consultation, one of these days I will look for a mandrel and another sensor, and I will unsubscribe on the result 🙂 maybe I will take pictures

In general, without removing the fist, the task of changing (removing the old one and putting on a new one) is greatly complicated. This is of course yes, if before that the ABS sensor was hammered into the steering knuckle with a hammer and without lubrication: str:. I actually wanted to ask, not assert

And if he is not removed from there in any way, then what to do then?

vano25 Don't worry about buying a sensor, take a crankshaft sensor from a VAZ 2110, it is also a pulse price of 100 rubles, pre-grind it with a sandpaper so that it climbs into the seat, cut off the old one and solder it. And you will have a great miracle. Thanks for the advice, I'll try 🙂 Added after 3 minutes 40 seconds: In general, without removing your fist, the task of changing (removing the old one and installing a new one) is very complicated. This is of course yes, if before that the ABS sensor was hammered into the steering knuckle with a hammer and without lubrication: str:. I actually wanted to ask, not assert

And if he is not removed from there in any way, then what to do then? I did it. if I even broke the first sensor and pulled it out entirely with a core, and scraped off the rest with a screwdriver. then this one was stuck thoroughly along with the remnants of the core.

option one so far thought up, so as not to remove the lever. drill almost through with a drill, drive the screw there, and pull pull pull 😉 until victorious

drill almost through with a drill, drive the self-tapping screw there, and pull pull pull 😉 until victorious Better a long bolt, washer, nut. And then a puller or how to adapt to pull.

I actually wanted to ask, not approve Mr. Green And if he can't be removed from there at all, then what to do? The most important thing is probably to stir up the sensor. If it is very sour, you can spill WD or something else, wait a little.

If humane methods of dismantling the ABS sensor do not help, I am not at all opposed to removing the steering knuckle and removing the unusable sensor with a hammer. The main thing is to put the new sensor “correctly” and then in the future there will be no problems with removing the sensor. vosmilie:

Men! After the accident, the left steering knuckle was replaced, the ABS malfunction lamp came on. The system diagnostics says that the right front and both rear ABS sensors are faulty.

Well, just right now I got to the sensor of this (I bought a bu for 900r). I drilled out - I dug out the remnants of the old one (self-tapping screws and small flatheads to help) and this copper sleeve. now the problem is to find a new bushing, tk. in our foreign car they said there is no such thing, not to order, either. tell me the number if there is. I can zabatsat a photo report on the installation if anyone is interested I found the number on the existential 443 927 817 Bushing of the front anti-lock system sensor non-originals 15340 There is a picture Parameters Applicability Bushing for mounting the ABS sensor 1 1 169.85 rubles. 15340 There is a pictureParameters Applicability ABS sensor mounting sleeve 1 0 180.87 rub. 899 760 510 4 There is a picture Bushing of the speed sensor 1 7 291.42 rubles. 15340 There is a pictureParametersApplication ABS sensor mounting sleeve 10 6 302.15 rub. 0900097 Clamping sleeve, wheel speed sensor 1 11 715.15 rub. 110 300 015 There is a picture Clamp parameters. sleeve photo here https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext2/42/img.aspx?prev=1&pid=0D103700&imid=1276666 - Added a little later - Men! After the accident, the left steering knuckle was replaced, the ABS malfunction lamp came on. The system diagnostics says that the right front and both rear ABS sensors are faulty. What to do. See the malfunction code and speed by group.

and the simplest thing is to measure the resistance on the sensors with an ordinary multimeter, it should be 0.9-1.2 ohm (in my opinion, tomorrow I will clarify how much I have). if the sensors are normal, look at the contacts, look at the comb on the CV joint and so on.

vano25 determined what resistance, I also have trouble after replacing the fist I can not set this sensor, but the resistance is more than 1 kOhm, maybe the Khan sensor, although I just picked it out alone, because I could not get it out of my fist, so there is a coil with a wire about 0, 1 mm in cross section, if not thinner, with a very large number of turns.

I also tormented for a long time, but the error did not hit and the abs worked at the end of braking! then after reading he knocked on it with a piece of wood! did not help! then he sprinkled it with a pliers and slowly swung it back and forth, then began to quietly tug it all came out very easily! he was covered in rust. I sprinkled it with a little more water, rubbed it with a rag and cleaned it inside a little bit! and put as everyone here says to the end and put it a little 1-2 mm by eye!

fig! the abs worked anyway! pulled out even harder knocked out an error on the esp! and I don’t seem to remember bs! that there is an unreliable signal for this sensor! I pulled it out again, but already in an easy one without much effort I inserted it all the way and just turned it back and forth a couple of times a couple of times and a mustache! everything became perfect for all 4 sensors, the speed is the same! abs stopped working at the end! : ura1 so there is practically no gap there! maybe a couple of dozen mm!

The ABS sensor is suitable from Valdai. There was a temka.

I'm here recently. and now I don’t understand who started talking about ABS sensors from Vaz and Valdai. thing or can you really try?

Service and operation

Manuals ￫ Volkswagen ￫ Passat B5

ABS consists of an electronic control unit, sensors located on the wheels, a hydraulic unit, valves and relays. The ABS unit is located between the brake master cylinder and the brakes. The presence of ABS does not affect the design of the vacuum booster and the brake master cylinder.

REPLACING THE ANGULAR SPEED SENSORS OF THE FRONT WHEELS

The front wheel sensors are removed and installed as follows: