In detail: do-it-yourself Renault Logan absorber repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Caution: During normal operation, the vent must not be blocked. The tube is not connected to this hole.
Principle of operation
Communication with the atmosphere of the fuel tank is carried out through an adsorber (fuel vapor trap). The fuel vapors are retained by the activated carbon contained in the adsorber. The fuel vapors contained in the adsorber are removed by combustion in the engine. For this, the adsorber is connected to the intake manifold via a pipeline. The adsorber has a solenoid valve that allows it to be purged.
Fuel vapor recovery system diagram.
1 - Intake manifold, 2 - Adsorber purge solenoid valve, 3 - Adsorber with solenoid valve, 4 - Tank, M - Communication with atmosphere, A - Pipeline to the intake manifold, B - Pipeline from the tank.
Adsorber purge conditions
The canister purge solenoid valve is operated from terminal 4 of the fuel injection control unit under the following conditions:
- the temperature of the coolant is above 40 ° C;
- air temperature exceeds 10 ° С;
- the load threshold has been reached;
- the engine does not idle;
- the throttle position sensor is not in the idle position.
Checking the purge of the adsorber
Failure to operate the EVAP system may result in unstable idling or engine stalling.
1. Make sure the system piping is connected correctly (see functional diagrams).
2. Check the condition of the pipes to the fuel tank.
Adsorber... 1 - Connecting pipe for supplying fuel vapor from the tank (quick-release connection), 2 - Line for supplying fuel vapor to the engine intake manifold, 3 - Opening for communication of the adsorber with the atmosphere, 4 - Solenoid valve for purging the adsorber.
The adsorber is located in the engine compartment on the front right wheel arch.
- Remove the right front wheel arch liner.
- unclench the clips of the wiring connector from the solenoid valve for purging the absorber and disconnect it
- Disconnect the tube 1 (in two places) from the absorber (shown without bumper for clarity) and. Disconnect the adsorber ventilation tube 2.
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Video (click to play). |
- Unscrew the two nuts with a 13-key (3) and remove the absorber together with its bracket
Check that there is a vacuum:
- at idle speed,
- with a plugged hole on the adsorber, to which the pipeline (B) for supplying fuel vapors from the fuel tank is connected.
Checking the connection of the fuel tank to the adsorber
This circuit can be tested as follows:
- hang out the right rear wheel with a jack;
- remove the fuel tank filler cap;
- connect the vacuum pump to the hose (B).
The system is good if the vacuum in this hose cannot be maintained.
Installation of an adsorber
5. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
Tightening torque for absorber mounting nuts: 21 Nm.
Absorber (from Lat. Absorbeo - absorb) - an apparatus for absorbing gases, vapors, for separating a gas mixture into its component parts by dissolving one or more components of this mixture in a liquid called an absorbent (absorber). The absorber is usually a column with packing or trays, in the lower part of which gas is supplied, and in the upper part - liquid; gas is removed from the absorber from above and liquid from below. The absorber is used in chemical, oil refining and other industries.
Adsorber - the main apparatus of the installation in which adsorption is carried out.
Adsorption (lat. ad - on, at; sorbeo - I absorb) - the process of concentrating a substance from the volume of phases at their interface.
The absorbed substance, still in the volume of the phase, is called the adsorptive, the absorbed - the adsorbate. In a narrower sense, adsorption is often understood as the absorption of an impurity from a gas or liquid by a solid - an adsorbent. In this case, as in the general case of adsorption, the impurity is concentrated at the adsorbent-liquid or adsorbent-gas interface. The reverse process of adsorption, that is, the transfer of a substance from the interface to the bulk of the phase, is called desorption.
Logan dvig. k7j, 2006.
During the body repair, the adsorber was stolen. Naturally, the pipes did not muffle. Discovered recently. Problem: it is clear that the pipe from the intake manifold cannot be left unmuffled (it enters the manifold after the air filter), but if it is muffled, the car starts to start very badly (with an unmuffled pipe, when it stupidly sticks out into the atmosphere, there are no problems with a cold start) , which is completely incomprehensible: after all, logically, during a cold start, the purge valve of the adsorber (if it were) should be closed! 
To be honest, there is no desire to buy an adsorber (the cost is rather big. Perhaps, as time will be attached from the viburnum with an external valve), besides, something suggests that the problem is not only in its absence.
Actually, help! Tell me what to do.
Thanks in advance.
We are violating clause 3.1, clause 3.10 of the Rules. While glued. Dock
Apparently you did not understand anything from the above.
P.S. We did not switch to YOU and did not drink to "brotherhood", as far as I remember.
An adsorber is just a plastic jar with some kind of fibrous material like coal wool. I suppose that he worked out his resource with something clogged, and sent an unstable signal to the brain. When you deigned to "drown" his brains, without receiving any signal about a change in pressure in the intake manifold, either switched to a certain emergency mode, or believe that everything is in order with the adsorber, and continue to work in the mode set by the firmware.
Of course, all of the above is nothing more than my speculation, and they should be taken only as information "for thought."
__________________
Ah at the spruce, ah at the tree, ah at the spruce wolves 
I kept turning a blind eye to you all the time, but if I catch someone for something, it will be his end!
Now I will figure it out properly and punish anyone!
Duc it. The adsorber collects vapors from the tank and bleeds them into the intake manifold through the e / m valve.
The ECU checks the valve circuit for open / short circuit and sometimes gives a command to open the valve.
If the valve is stuck open, then the intake manifold is constantly “pulled”.
You can pull the valve itself out of the adsorber body and simply blow into it.
If such a vacuum was created in the tank that the gas pump could not cope, then the tank would flatten.
Does it work as unstable with the gas cap open?
PS It is interesting to look at the readings of the MAC-sensor. A very important sensor.
Duc it. The adsorber collects vapors from the tank and bleeds them into the intake manifold through the e / m valve.
The ECU checks the valve circuit for open / short circuit and sometimes gives a command to open the valve.
If the valve is stuck open, then the intake manifold is constantly “pulled”.
You can pull the valve itself out of the adsorber body and simply blow into it.
If such a vacuum was created in the tank that the gas pump could not cope, then the tank would flatten.
Does it work as unstable with the gas cap open?
PS It is interesting to look at the readings of the MAC-sensor. A very important sensor.
With the lid open, XX is normal (immediately after refueling, the engine runs smoothly). This prompted me to think about looking at the absorber.
The valve is working normally, naturally I pulled it out when washing the engine, checked the seals and tightness, cleaned it.
The vacuum in the tank was within the normal range, not at all excessive, but apparently these 0.2. 0.3 and was not enough to form a good spray pattern.
I think the problem is in the pressure regulator or filter mesh.
I do not want to make any hasty conclusions yet, until I measure the pressure in the line and diagnose the fuel pump with a regulator. The main thing is that the thread of the problem has been groped, which means that the solution is not far off.
We remove the adsorber for replacement if the tightness of its body is broken (it can be determined by the smell of gasoline and by visual inspection), as well as in the event of a malfunction of the adsorber purge solenoid valve (the defect is accompanied by unstable engine idling).
To remove the adsorber, remove the right front wheel fender liner (see "Removing the mud flaps and front wheel fender liners").
Use a screwdriver to wring out the retainer for the wiring harness of the engine management system (for clarity, the front bumper has been removed) ...
Squeezing the clips on the tip of the tube connecting the canister purge solenoid valve to the intake manifold ...
… Remove the tube tip from the valve union.
Similarly, remove the tip of the tube connecting the adsorber to the fuel tank from the adsorber fitting.
Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the adsorber body to the body ...
... and remove the adsorber together with the transparent ventilation tube. We install the adsorber in the reverse order.
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Immediately I apologize for the title of the topic, tk. could not think of anything else. The situation is as follows. When incl. ignition, but I do not start the engine, in front of the right, in the direction of travel, a continuous knock-knock-knock sound is heard, similar to the clatter of a relyushka. There is a condenser in the car. What could it be?
Most likely it is an adsorber. If gasoline does not stink and the car starts up normally, then everything is ok.: Rock:
you put your finger on this knot and vibration is felt (highlighted in the photo and shown with an arrow)
this knock-knock-knock is very frequent, 3-4 times per second 
(I apologize for the expression, I really don't know what else to call it)with the engine running, did not try to listen and touch
dumb like that? what is this node and what is it responsible for?
If gasoline does not stink and the car starts up normally, then everything is ok
does not stink, the car starts up from the floor at random (ugh 3 times)
This is the adsorber valve. The adsorber cleans gasoline vapors from the tank and feeds them through a valve (which is a knock-knock :)) into the intake pipe, where this purified, so to speak, air enters the cylinders. This removes gasoline vapors from the tank. In the event of a failure of this valve, either the car does not start well, or it stinks of benzene, or all together. So let it bother while)))
So let it bother while)))
and what can it touch?
there everything changes en masse, the valve cannot be changed separately?
those. until benzene stinks and the car starts up normally, then do not pay attention to it? and how long can this last?
Yes, this is it. I have been clasping for two years now, and as far as I understand this is normal. The whole module is changing, although maybe someone is whining. :). Try to listen to another logan for comparison. I think there is nothing terrible there.
Try to listen to another logan for comparison. I think there is nothing terrible there.
I didn't notice before, maybe it sounded, although I have an ear for music, as my wife says, and I would have heard it before
there are contacts, but if you just turn it off, what will happen?
The adsorber does not clean anything, it simply absorbs gasoline vapors, and is periodically blown out when the engine is running.Malfunction of the fuel vapor recovery system entails instability of idling, engine shutdown, increased toxicity of exhaust gases and deterioration of the vehicle's driving performance.
Antuan
Disassembly 550 UAH bought myself.
The adsorber does not clean anything, it simply absorbs gasoline vapors, and is periodically blown out when the engine is running. Malfunction of the fuel vapor recovery system entails instability of idling, engine shutdown, increased toxicity of exhaust gases and deterioration of the vehicle's driving performance.
Well done - I read the advertising brochure!
And now the truth.
The task of the absorber is to prevent the ingress of gasoline vapors from the tank into the atmosphere, which in itself is the delirium of a drunken marketer.
How it works: it is constantly connected to the tank, gasoline vapors from which are absorbed by activated carbon in the absorber, and at certain engine operating modes, the absorber valve opens and the absorber is purged into the intake manifold.
The absorber does not affect either the dynamic or the toxic characteristics of the engine.
But because of it, or rather the purge valve, there may be air leaks into the manifold and related troubles.
and I turned it off altogether by removing the pipe wire from the intake manifold and drowning the inlet fitting in the manifold, I don’t even worry, I did it for the sake of experiment: tbsenile:
Didn't I write the same thing? Or are you about the malfunctions !?
In short, I understand you are against progress and ecology
Plug the inlet to the manifold, the fuel filter to the tube from the tank - and deal with the tail.
From the branch pipe through which the adsorber should be blown through, I get a steady smell of gasoline. Checked under the following conditions:
1. On a cold engine, when the ignition is turned on.
2. After starting the engine, and waited until warming up and going to standard idle.
3. After driving, without turning off the engine, at idle.
4. After the trip, without turning off the engine, spinning up the speed up to 3-4 thousand (spinning by opening the throttle).
In all these conditions, we could not hear any sounds, vibrations, clicks from the side of the adsorber, air was not drawn into the purge pipe either (I checked it with my finger), and as I said, the smell, if you sniff at the pipe, was present in all these conditions.
I never fill a full tank to capacity.
When you open the lid of the tank, there is often a puff. But I rarely succeed in determining the direction of the zilch)).
Today, here, in the morning I filled up a quarter of the tank, and when I arrived at work - I opened the tank lid - there was also a puff of air. I do not know, however, whether this indicates something in terms of the adsorber.
Can you please tell me if the adsorber is dead, or did I just test it incorrectly? And, in the first case, is it worth trying to restore it, and is it possible at all?
Caution: During normal operation, the vent must not be blocked. The tube is not connected to this hole.
Principle of operation
Communication with the atmosphere of the fuel tank is carried out through an adsorber (fuel vapor trap). The fuel vapors are retained by the activated carbon contained in the adsorber. The fuel vapors contained in the adsorber are removed by combustion in the engine. For this, the adsorber is connected to the intake manifold via a pipeline. The adsorber has a solenoid valve that allows it to be purged.
Fuel vapor recovery system diagram.
1 - Intake manifold, 2 - Adsorber purge solenoid valve, 3 - Adsorber with solenoid valve, 4 - Tank, M - Communication with atmosphere, A - Pipeline to the intake manifold, B - Pipeline from the tank.
Adsorber purge conditions
The canister purge solenoid valve is operated from terminal 4 of the fuel injection control unit under the following conditions:
- the temperature of the coolant is above 40 ° C;
- air temperature exceeds 10 ° С;
- the load threshold has been reached;
- the engine does not idle;
- the throttle position sensor is not in the idle position.
Checking the purge of the adsorber
Failure to operate the EVAP system may result in unstable idling or engine stalling.
1. Make sure the system piping is connected correctly (see functional diagrams).
2. Check the condition of the pipes to the fuel tank.
Adsorber... 1 - Connecting pipe for supplying fuel vapor from the tank (quick-release connection), 2 - Line for supplying fuel vapor to the engine intake manifold, 3 - Opening for communication of the adsorber with the atmosphere, 4 - Solenoid valve for purging the adsorber.
The adsorber is located in the engine compartment on the front right wheel arch.
- Remove the right front wheel arch liner.
- unclench the clips of the wiring connector from the solenoid valve for purging the absorber and disconnect it
- Disconnect the tube 1 (in two places) from the absorber (shown without bumper for clarity) and. Disconnect the adsorber ventilation tube 2.
- Unscrew the two nuts with a 13-key (3) and remove the absorber together with its bracket
Check that there is a vacuum:
- at idle speed,
- with a plugged hole on the adsorber, to which the pipeline (B) for supplying fuel vapors from the fuel tank is connected.
Checking the connection of the fuel tank to the adsorber
This circuit can be tested as follows:
- hang out the right rear wheel with a jack;
- remove the fuel tank filler cap;
- connect the vacuum pump to the hose (B).
The system is good if the vacuum in this hose cannot be maintained.
Installation of an adsorber
5. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
Tightening torque for absorber mounting nuts: 21 Nm.
Renault Logan (2004+). Replacing the canister of the fuel vapor recovery system engine K7J, K7M
The canister of the fuel vapor recovery system is removed for inspection or replacement when a persistent smell of gasoline appears due to a leak in the canister, or when the canister purge valve fails. In addition, the leakage of the adsorber and the failure of the purge valve can cause unstable engine idling until it stops. The adsorber is installed in the right front wheel well.
You will need: a key "13", a flat-blade screwdriver.
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.
Remove the right mudguard of the engine (see "Removing and installing mudguards and protection of the engine crankcase", page 68).
3. Disconnect the harness block from the canister purge valve.
We remove the adsorber for replacement if the tightness of its body is broken (it can be determined by the smell of gasoline and by visual inspection), as well as in the event of a malfunction of the adsorber purge solenoid valve (the defect is accompanied by unstable engine idling).
To remove the adsorber, remove the right front wheel fender liner (see "Removing the mud flaps and front wheel fender liners").
Use a screwdriver to wring out the retainer for the wiring harness of the engine management system (for clarity, the front bumper has been removed) ...
Squeezing the clips on the tip of the tube connecting the canister purge solenoid valve to the intake manifold ...
… Remove the tube tip from the valve union.
Similarly, remove the tip of the tube connecting the adsorber to the fuel tank from the adsorber fitting.
Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the adsorber body to the body ...
... and remove the adsorber together with the transparent ventilation tube. We install the adsorber in the reverse order.
The original source of content - WiKi of the site of the magazine "Za Rulem"
We remove the adsorber for replacement if the tightness of its body is broken (it can be determined by the smell of gasoline and by visual inspection), as well as in the event of a malfunction of the adsorber purge solenoid valve (the defect is accompanied by unstable engine idling).
To remove the adsorber, remove the right front wheel fender liner (see "Removing the mud flaps and front wheel fender liners").
Use a screwdriver to wring out the retainer for the wiring harness of the engine management system (for clarity, the front bumper has been removed) ...
... and remove the block.
Squeezing the clips on the tip of the tube connecting the canister purge solenoid valve to the intake manifold ...
… Remove the tube tip from the valve union.
Similarly, remove the tip of the tube connecting the adsorber to the fuel tank from the adsorber fitting.
Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the adsorber body to the body ...
... and remove the adsorber together with the transparent ventilation tube. We install the adsorber in the reverse order.
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Replacing the absorber for Renault Logan produced in case of violation of the tightness of its body (can be determined by the smell of gasoline or by visual inspection), as well as in the event of a malfunction of the solenoid valve absorber blowdown (unstable engine idling).
The procedure for replacing the absorber with Renault Logan and Renault Sandero:
remove the right front wheel arch liner;
use a screwdriver to squeeze the retainer for the wiring harness block of the engine management system;
remove the block;
squeezing the clamps of the tip of the tube connecting the solenoid valve for purging the absorber with the inlet pipeline, remove the tip of the tube from the valve fitting;
the tip of the tube connecting the absorber with the fuel tank is also removed from the absorber fitting;
using the “13” head, unscrew the two nuts securing the absorber body to the body;
remove the absorber together with the transparent ventilation tube.
Installation is carried out in reverse order.
Renault Logan is a well-known model that belongs to the category of economy class cars. The French company Renault, which in the process of creation was guided by the sale of cars in developing countries, acted as the developer. The advantages of Logan are simplicity in operation, economy, high level of comfort and low maintenance costs. If you have certain knowledge and skills, repairing Renault Logan with your own hands is not difficult even for beginner car enthusiasts.
Work on the model began back in 1998. The developers aimed to make a reliable and affordable car that would satisfy the needs of middle class car enthusiasts. In 2004, production started in Romania, and a year later, production was launched in Russia. Over time, India, Mexico and a number of other countries joined the production of popular cars. Despite the difference in names, the base and equipment have remained almost unchanged.
In 2008, the technical parameters and appearance of Renault were improved. The optics, the shape of the bumpers, the luggage compartment cover and the radiator grill have changed. The interior has also improved - head restraints have appeared in the back, the steering wheel and door cards have changed. The technical part has also undergone adjustments - the engine, gearbox and other components.
The car is produced in the following body types:
The main sign of reliability is the popularity of the car among taxi drivers, who called the model "not killed". Maintenance is carried out every 15 thousand kilometers and involves the following work:
Subsequent inspections and restoration work are carried out with the same interval (15 thousand kilometers). In general, maintenance involves 8 stages (up to 120 thousand kilometers).
The service manual contains complete information on the operation of the Reno vehicle:
- Body repair, cleaning of deflectors and roof-mounted sunroof.
- Monitoring the condition of the engine, draining fluid from the filtering device and scheduled maintenance.
- Clutch maintenance (checking and adjusting free play, replacing faulty components).
- Determination of the level of wear of discs and brake pads, the condition of the hydraulic drive and the volume of brake fluid.
- Checking the steering system, windscreen washer and valve body.
- Technical control of shock absorbers and suspension system elements.
- Monitoring the performance of lighting devices, wiper blades, rear-view mirrors.
- Diagnostics of the ECU with your own hands.
- Checking light bulbs and battery voltage level.
The reliability and service life of the car depends on the timeliness of maintenance. With information available, operation and repair are not difficult even for a beginner. The main thing is to consider the following points:
Despite a number of "weak points", Reno Logan is a reliable car, distinguished by ease of operation and availability of components. In this section you will find complete information on car repair, gain experience in performing simple and complex works, and also learn useful secrets from experts in their field.
A failed muffler can cause a lot of trouble for the car owner. And the Renault Logan driver is no exception. Fortunately, the muffler can be repaired by hand. And for this you absolutely do not need to go to the nearest car service. Let's figure out exactly how this is done.
Even a novice driver can understand that the car's muffler is out of order.
Here are the main signs of problems with this device:
- the smell of exhaust gases appeared in the cabin;
- engine power has noticeably decreased for no apparent reason;
- the engine started to run very loudly;
- the noisy operation of the engine is accompanied by loud claps, similar to pistol shots.
Most of the above signs indicate that a hole has formed in the device due to thermal corrosion. A decrease in power is observed due to clogging of the resonator or catalyst of the machine. Alternatively, the smallest holes in the "honeycomb" of the catalyst can simply coke due to prolonged exposure to high temperatures. And the temperature, in turn, rises as a result of the combustion of low-quality fuel. Finally, pistol shots are the result of air entering the vehicle's fuel system. Among these malfunctions, the breakdown of the muffler mounts stands apart. Let's consider it in more detail.
The characteristic thud that is heard from under the bottom of the Renault Logan while driving, says only one thing: the muffler mount needs to be replaced. The mechanism hangs under the bottom of the machine on two brackets covered with special abrasion resistant rubber.
But even such rubber can wear out after 100 thousand kilometers.
After that, the device begins to dangle in the bracket and knock on the bottom of the car. It is not possible to restore the worn-out rubber somehow. In any case, in a garage. So there is only one option: buying new rubberized brackets and installing them in place of the old ones.
- You need to purchase 2 brackets for the Renault Logan muffler at the auto shop. The best option would be to buy Sasic products (catalog number 40015–80). The cost of these brackets varies from 580 to 750 rubles.
The best brackets for Renault Logan mufflers are produced by Sasic
- The car is installed on an inspection pit or on an overpass. A 10 spanner wrench unscrews a pair of fastening bolts on the front bracket. The same wrench unscrews a pair of bolts on the rear bracket.
- The brackets are removed, replaced with new ones, the bolts are screwed into place.
Between the main muffler and the resonator of the Renault Logan there is a pipe, at the junction of which a special gasket is installed. Thanks to this joint, the silencer does not need to be removed entirely: if the resonator breaks down, only it can be removed. The main body of the device can also be removed separately. This is convenient, but the joint on the pipe and the gasket are the weakest points in the structure. The gasket very often burns out, after which the pipe at the joint begins to dangle and knock. To replace it, you need the following tools:
- new gasket for Renault Logan;
- socket head for 10 with a long crank;
- long chisel;
- liquid WD40;
- hammer.
- The car is installed on an inspection pit, wheel chocks are installed under the wheels.
- The bolts holding the gasket are very often corroded. Therefore, they are treated with WD40 liquid, which will facilitate their loosening.
- After processing, the bolts on the gasket are unscrewed with a socket head by 10, the joint on the muffler pipe is disconnected.
- Access to the old gasket is opened. If it is burnt to the pipe, it will be almost impossible to remove it manually. Therefore, it is cut down with a hammer and a long chisel.
- A new one is installed in place of the cut-out gasket. The optimal choice would be a gasket from BOSAL, which is the official supplier of parts for Renault Logan exhaust systems (catalog number - 256–056, cost - from 400 rubles).
- After installing the gasket, a pipe is installed on it, the previously unscrewed bolts by 10 are screwed into their regular places.
Going to the store for a new device for the Renault Logan car, you should know: this part is not sold in full anywhere. That is, the car owner will not be able to purchase the main muffler, resonator and intake pipe in one set. These parts will have to be purchased separately. It is better if the car owner opts for BOSAL products. Another good option would be ATIHO spare parts. In terms of cost, the products of these companies are almost the same:
- the intake pipe costs 1,500 rubles;
- main muffler - 2,000 rubles;
- resonator - 1800 rubles.
Before starting work, you should decide on the necessary tools and consumables. Here's what we need:
- new "Glushak" for "Logan";
- liquid WD40;
- socket heads for 10 and 16 with a ratchet wrench;
- flashlight.
- The machine is installed on an inspection pit or overpass.
- The front of the muffler hangs on a rubber strap. It is processed with WD40 fluid.
- After 15 minutes, the attachment pin of the device is manually removed from the rubber clamp.
- Two nuts for 10 located at the junction of pipes with a gasket are unscrewed.
- After that, the wire at the exhaust gas control sensor is manually disconnected.
- In the back, near the resonator, there is a second sensor - a lambda probe. Its wire is also manually disconnected.
- Next to the lambda probe wire is another rubber fixing clamp, which is also treated with WD40 fluid.
- After 15 minutes, the rear of the mechanism is removed from the clamp.
- This part rests on the crossbeam under the bottom of the machine.The beam interferes with the removal of the structure, so it must be unscrewed using the socket head 16.
- After unscrewing the beam, the mechanism is completely removed from under the bottom of the car and replaced with a new one. After that, all fasteners are assembled in the reverse order.
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Video (click to play). |
So, even a novice car enthusiast can handle replacing the muffler with Renault Logan. All that is required is a couple of socket wrenches and the skill of working with them. Minor problems can arise with rusted bolts and tight clamps, but they can be successfully solved using WD40 fluid, which is sold in every spare parts store.
