DIY airbrush repair

In detail: do-it-yourself airbrush repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

An airbrush (air brush - translated from English) is a compact spray gun, with the help of which paint is sprayed (sprayed) in a thin strip onto any surface. In principle, its operation is similar to that of a spray gun, but there is also a significant difference, one might say a fundamental one. This is that with the help of an airbrush you can make beautiful images and apply them to almost any surface. Such a device is convenient to apply unique images, even with small details. Despite the fact that you can find various models on sale, many are wondering how to make an airbrush with their own hands at home and how difficult it is, and whether it is costly.

All airbrushes are divided into several types, according to the following characteristics:

A method of mixing streams of air and paint. There are external and internal mixing. The first option has a simpler design.
The method of supplying paint and the location of the container. There are models with top, side and bottom feeding, in addition, there are devices in which the paint is supplied by means of air at a certain pressure.
Control type. Single, double and independent action.

The main constituent elements of an airbrush:

Container for paint or varnish;
Compressor;
Receiver;
Nozzle;
Lever and control valve;
Air valve;
Needle;
Airbrush stand;
Pen.

The principle of operation of all airbrushes is the same and consists in the fact that the air pressure that passes through the tube is greater than that of the external environment. The paint is mixed with air, having previously gone up the tube. In this case, an even and sufficiently powerful jet is formed (Bernoulli's principle). The air quantity is regulated by a trigger (control mechanism). When the trigger is pressed, the paint or varnish is sucked out of the container and sprayed in the form of a conical jet.

The design of most models is the same, regardless of the location of the container for varnish or paint. Although some details may differ, the principle of operation remains the same.

One of the most optimal receiver options is a do-it-yourself fire extinguisher for an airbrush, especially since you can easily find such a product. You can search in factories, contact friends, purchase from firefighters or companies that service fire extinguishers. They usually always have discarded fire extinguishers ready for disposal. It is better to choose specimens with a capacity of 15-20 liters, but only so that they are in good condition. Rust is unacceptable inside the container.

Video (click to play).

Important: a fire extinguisher for assembling an airbrush with your own hands must be in good condition, without external deformations, and there must be no rust inside.

If there is rust, you can use a special remover, paint baking powder, thinner, wire brush or drill with special attachments. It is advisable to treat the places where there was rust with a special solution for binding rust. After that, the surface must be treated with a metal primer and painted. This must be done strictly according to the instructions.

Tip: Pay special attention to the inside of the neck and the lid.

Among the many options for how to make a compressor for an airbrush with your own hands, the most common and demanded are a compressor from a refrigerator and a car compressor for inflating wheels.

The main advantages of choosing a compressor from a refrigerator for an airbrush:

There is no need for additional power supplies, as they work from a standard 220V network;
Availability;
Long time of non-stop work;
Low noise level.

Such compressors are designed to work not with air, but with freon;
Periodic oil changes are required.

Pros of a car compressor for making an airbrush with your own hands:

Optimal pressure;
High performance;
Mobility;
Easy to install and operate, adapts well to the system.

Quite high noise level;
The time of continuous work is limited.
A powerful battery is required.

If you still compare these two options, then an airbrush from a car compressor can be called more preferable. It allows you to obtain a sufficient pressure of about 7 atmospheres and high productivity in the range of 70-73 l / min. With the unit from the refrigerator, it is unlikely that it will be possible to obtain such indicators.

As an option for a car compressor for a homemade airbrush, you can use the AC 700 model or another similar one, the main thing is that the performance characteristics correspond to the required indicators. The technical characteristics, equipment and price of this model are quite suitable. The work procedure can be divided into several stages.

First, you need to remove all unnecessary - kerchiefs, an air duct with a fitting, a handle, rubber feet. All this will come in handy in the future, so you do not need to throw anything away.

The second step is to adapt the compressor to the system. This is done using an adapter for pipe threads, depending on the thread itself. Most often it is 1/4 or 1/2 inch.

Insert the duct tube into the barrel. Pre-cut in half. The joint, if desired, can be sealed from the inside, but this is not necessary, the main thing is that the connection is airtight.

As a power supply, you can use computer power supplies, from the PS game console and others. The main thing is that their characteristics correspond to the following parameters - 12 V and 50 A, if necessary, you can combine several blocks.

The assembly of all parts of the compressor is carried out using plumbing fittings and fittings (plumbing).

You will also need to prepare:

Pressure switch (optional PM / 5G);
Separator;
Check valve;
Pressure regulator.

The next step is adaptation and installation of the cover. Then it remains to make a stand for the airbrush. There are many options here. Although some people can do without the last element quite comfortably, but, as practice shows, it is more convenient with a stand.

After that, it remains to connect all the electrical elements and make a complete assembly. It is very important here to be careful about wiring. Especially when it is supposed to use multiple power supplies. This is due to the fact that different manufacturers use wires of different colors, so there is no single standard. But there is one caveat - the arrangement of the wires is identical.

Read also: Gazelle DIY repair gearbox

The airbrush is assembled in several stages - the assembly of the cartridge and the manufacture of the air valve. There are many options here.

Alternatively, you can use:

Ballpoint pen;
Medical syringe;
Wine bottle cork;
A jar, you can glass.

There are more complicated and simpler options. Therefore, everyone should choose for themselves how to make an airbrush, based on their skills and capabilities. Here is considered one of the simplest and most affordable, both in terms of manufacturing method and cost.

Making an airbrush at home with your own hands is not difficult for yourself. At the same time, the cost of the device will be several times lower than the factory models, but in terms of characteristics, they are unlikely to be inferior.

An airbrush is a device with which you can paint various small parts, apply paint evenly on various surfaces, paint cars and paint pictures on walls when decorating interiors.It is customary to use professional equipment and tools for painting and drawing, which are not cheap. Therefore, if a home craftsman needs to paint any small parts or cover a small area with paint, stain or varnish, then buying a factory airbrush is impractical. It is easier to do it yourself from improvised means, spending a minimum of time on the whole process.

Before you start making the device at home, you should decide what kind of airbrush design you need - with external paint mixing or internal.

External mixing airbrushes have a tank with a tube coming out of it. The latter is located opposite the tube through which air is supplied. As a result, paint escaping from the tube of the tank is blown away by the air stream.

In devices without spray gun the colorant mixes with the air inside the housing and is blown out through the nozzle.

To make a DIY airbrush, you will need items such as a syringe, a ballpoint pen (with an empty refill), a blood transfusion system, and a glue gun. The manufacturing process of the device without an external paint sprayer is as follows.

Take a ballpoint pen and remove the refill from it.
It is required to remove the ball from the writing part (tip) of the rod. To do this, it is enough to make a few movements with the tip on the sandpaper, after which the ball will fall out of it. If there is ink in the refill, you first need to detach the writing part and blow it out of the tube. It is also recommended to flush the tubing with water or solvent using a syringe.
After the ball is cured, the tip should be well polished and deburred, both outside and inside the hole, holding the rod in a vice.
After polishing, detach the tip from the plastic tube using pliers.

The next step is to make a hole in the side of the tip. This can be easily done with a triangular file.

After punching the hole, remove the burrs around the hole and remove any small chips from the inside of the element that have formed during the grinding process.

Insert the tip into the plastic rod.

Next, you should cut off a small part of the handle body with a length of 35 mm. Mark the desired location and saw off part of the tube with a metal hacksaw.

Clamp the sawn-off part of the handle body in a vise in a vertical position.

Make a cut with a triangular file at the end of the tube, as shown in the following photo.

Insert the rod into the tube and make sure the cut is deep enough. The hole in the side of the tip should be open.

The rod can now be shortened so that it has a length with the tip of about 40 mm.

After shortening the rod to the required length, you will need to insert a needle into its writing part.

Draw paint in a syringe and place it on the resulting mini airbrush. Move the clip wheel in the opposite direction to the syringe (all the way), thereby pinching the dropper tube. Connect the free end of the dropper to the compressor hose and test spray paint. To start spraying, just rotate the clamp wheel forward a little so that air flows through the dropper towards the nozzle. After some simple experiments with the pressure in the system and the thickness of the paint, the homemade airbrush will be ready to go.

Make cutouts in the plastic bottle to match the shape of the airbrush.

The easiest way is to make an airbrush yourself if its design implies the presence of an external paint sprayer, that is, during the operation of the device, external mixing of air with paint will occur. Below is a drawing according to which you can make a device for spraying paint in just a few minutes.

The airbrush is made as follows.

Now you can pour paint into the container and try to paint.If the device is required for painting models and various small parts, then you can do without a compressor. It is enough to draw more air into the lungs and blow into the tube. For background application and painting of large areas, a hose from the compressor can be connected to the tube... When painting large areas, one compressor is indispensable. It will take to him connect the receiver for the airbrush, which will ensure more stable operation of the latter. The receiver can be made from a fire extinguisher, a plastic bottle, or a tire from a car.

Important! This airbrush model can be improved if the air supply tube is made from a 5 ml syringe by inserting it instead of a ballpoint pen. In this case, a conventional blow gun can be connected to the device.

How the device works with a syringe installed instead of a ballpoint pen body, you can learn from this video.

An airbrush is a small hand-held spray gun that sprays paint onto almost any surface. Due to its small size, the spraying occurs in a thin strip, so it is convenient for them to draw drawings with small details. It is usually sold freely and is not very expensive, but you can not spend money, but make an airbrush with your own hands.This device works on the principle of pneumatic atomization: a stream of air passes through a narrow hole under high pressure, forms a jet and thus sprays paint. It consists of the following parts:

containers for paint;

receiver - a container designed to accumulate air required for spraying;

compressor - an element that increases the pressure of the air entering the receiver;

an adjusting valve and a lever responsible for the movement of paint and air;

nozzles - the regulator of the volume of the jet of paint;

needles - regulator of its supply;

an air valve, which is responsible for the movement of air into the nozzle;

pens.

Airbrush components

An optional but important addition is the stand.

The handheld airbrush is similar in appearance to a fountain pen attached to a can. Its mechanism is simple, it is quite possible to make it at home.

A homemade airbrush can be with or without a spray gun (in this case, you need to blow into a nozzle to spray).

When thinking about the question of how to make an airbrush with your own hands, it is important to remember that the option without a spray gun is easier to manufacture, but it is easier to work with a spray gun.

a disposable syringe, from which you need to remove the needle and plunger and attach its top to the bottle;

a rod from a gel pen;

bottle (with a capacity of 0.5 l);

thread as strong as possible;

clip;

Scotch.

You need to make it according to the following scheme:

bend the paperclip to a straight line, and then bend it at an angle of 90 °;

tie one side of the paperclip to the needle;

tape the second side to the body near the hole for the needle;

install it with its tip in the center of the nozzle (prerequisite).

To use such an airbrush, you need to dilute the paint, lower the needle into a container with it and blow (preferably with great force).There is another version of such a device (with or without a stand). To make it, you need to additionally take a piece of ballpoint pen rod cut off by a cone and glue. Steps for making this model:

cut off the end of the needle, and dip the rest of it into glue and stick it into the rod, only with the condition that the tip must stick out;

make holes in the lid so that air can enter there.

A homemade airbrush can also be made with one pen, a wine bottle cork, a small can or bottle, and glue:

clean the ink from the rod;

make two cuts in the cork in opposite directions;

drill a hole for the rod, which will be located in the center there, and another perpendicular;

make a nozzle: insert the rod into one hole, the body into the second, make a hole in the lid of the jar along the diameter of the rod and push the part into it;

fix with glue or sealant.

For it to be automatic, it is recommended to attach the dropper tubes to the compressor. For more convenient work, you can get a stand.Many lovers of homemade devices are wondering how to make an airbrush with a paint sprayer, since it is more convenient. This is somewhat more complicated, but also quite possible. For him you will need:

3 ballpoint and 2 gel pens;

pencil;

deodorant spray;

wire;

nipple;

2 bolts with a diameter of 3 mm;

the same number of needles;

glue.

The production of this type of airbrush includes several stages.

Assembling the cartridge and needle retainer:

Remove the piston from the automatic handle rod, lower the spring.
Drill a hole in the pen shaft (gel) and insert the small bolt at a 90 ° angle.
Make 2 holes in a ballpoint pen.
Bend the wire to the stop of the trigger and insert it into the body.
Heat a needle of the same diameter and insert in the same place.
Fasten the structure with four pieces of wire (6 cm each), bent at 90 °.
Insert the body with the needle into the spray gun (the length of the rod used for this should be such that it rests against the bent wire, and the spring is compressed).
Glue the details.

The next stage is the manufacture of an air valve: using an empty syringe (from which the piston has been removed), a needle, a spring from a handle, a piece of a tube from a cylinder from under an air freshener, a nipple. Glue everything together.

For the spray gun, the same parts are taken, but instead of the spring, tube and nipple, the front of the rod (with a tip) and a hose through which air will be supplied are used. All this should also be firmly connected.Another option is to do with a vinyl tube and a compressor:

Cut the tubing and put it on the syringe close to its base, leaving room for pressing the cylinder valve.

Collect paint and attach the cut tube to the cylinder that will be used as a spray bottle.

Gloves should be worn to avoid getting dirty.For the successful design of the apparatus, you need to be guided by the drawing.A stand is always a useful addition to an airbrush. It can also be done at home.It is good to use a regular stationery clip as a stand. There is always an opportunity to modify it or make a new one yourself. Image - DIY airbrush repair

There are various options for improvement. For example, attach aluminum wire, springs and stoppers from medical vials to the clamp. The wire must be thick and strong, since the axis of the device is made from it, which is fixed with a nut, a special rocker for the airbrush is attached to it from above, in the places of contact with it, tubes from the dropper are attached... This is a fairly durable device that holds even a large device securely.

One of the most affordable options for making a stand from scratch:

take brackets from an old meat grinder;
drill holes in them (2);
bend knitting needles or from bicycle wheels (it is important that there is a thread at the ends);
tighten the nuts to the end of each thread and solder;
insert the knitting needles into the drilled holes and fasten them with nuts, screw the stand to the table.

It is possible to use lining as the main material:

saw off a piece (length about 17 cm);
cut along;
make holes for bolts and nuts;
pull the wire, clamp it with pieces of the rail;
so that she does not scratch the airbrush, prime and pull on the hose from the dropper.

A custom made or purchased stand must meet certain requirements:

firmly attached to the table;
to be installed simply and quickly, not to take time away from the painting process itself;
be low so that you can add paint at any time;
the airbrush should be easy to install and remove in the same way, so that these actions eventually become automatic.

A homemade airbrush in practice turns out to be no worse than a store-bought one. In addition, there is almost no need to spend money on materials, and almost complete cost savings are obtained.An airbrush is a tool for spraying paint or varnish by means of compressed air passing through it. Thanks to the fine adjustment of the air flow, airbrush artists achieve the drawing of even the smallest details of the drawing. Still, the quality of the picture largely depends not only on the skill of the artist, but also on the type and design of the airbrush.With its small size, the paint spraying device can include more than 20 elements that ensure its high-quality work. To understand the structure of an airbrush, just look at the figure below, which shows a cutaway of the tool.There are several types of airbrushes that differ in design. But all of them are united by the presence of basic elements common to all types of devices.As mentioned above, there are different types of airbrushes, which can be divided into single and double action devices.In these devices, after pressing the lever, only the air flow opens, which mixes with the paint outside the case or inside it (devices with internal or external mixing).Airbrushes external mixing (see photo below) have the simplest design and are used for uniform application of paint or varnish over large areas.Appliance internal mixing (see figure below) is designed in such a way that the connection of paint and air occurs inside its body.When the button (trigger) is pressed in the double-acting tool, only the air valve is opened. But in order to produce the supply of paint for mixing with air, this very lever must be moved a little back. Dye flow control allows the artist to control color saturation and line width.The principle of operation of an airbrush is as follows. After pressing the trigger, the air valve opens, and air under pressure begins to flow to and from the nozzle of the device. Since the airbrush is powered by compressed air passing through the body of the device, the pressure of which is higher than the pressure of the external environment, the paint rises from the tank and mixes with it. But there are also top-mounted airbrushes... In this case, gravity feed of the paint is carried out. The following illustration shows a siphon (A) and gravity (B) type cistern.Coming out of the nozzle, the mixture of paint and air turns into a conical aerosol torch.Before you start using an airbrush, especially if you just bought it, you need to get it ready for use. First of all, you need to adjust the paint supply. Normally, when the trigger is lightly pressed, only air should flow out of the airbrush nozzle (applies to single-action tools). As you move (push) the lever further, paint should appear.If, when you press the lever, paint immediately starts to spray, or when you fully press the trigger, it is not released enough, then you will need to adjust the airbrush.

Unscrew the plastic cap of the device while holding the device by the metal nut.

Next, you need to unscrew the needle lock (shown by the arrow in the next photo). Do not completely unscrew the latch. It just needs to be loosened so that the needle can move in the guide. The needle should also not be pulled out forcibly, as this will cause the ink to leak.

If, at the slightest pull of the trigger, paint was immediately fed, then the needle, in this case, needs to be moved forward a little. It is necessary to achieve such a setting so that the paint starts move when the lever is pressed halfway... To do this, press the lever (up to half the stroke) and, without releasing it, tighten the needle lock.

Next, the cap is screwed into place. But you should be aware that an adjusting screw is provided on the cap to fine-tune the movement of the needle. Therefore, you need to unscrew it a little, turn on the compressor and fine-tune the device.

If you set up the airbrush in this way, then when using the tool, it will be possible to smoothly adjust the fluid supply to the nozzle.

In addition, the above settings do not guarantee correct operation of the device if the wrong pressure in the system is selectedto which it is connected. For an airbrush, you need a pressure in the range of 1-3 atm. If there is little pressure in the system, then the result of the work will turn out to be rough and of poor quality. If the air pressure is too high, the atomization is finer, but the process becomes more difficult to control.

Problems arise especially if the air compressor does not have outlet pressure regulation. In this case, you can install the reducer with pressure gauges yourself between the receiver and the air supply hose to the device. The reducer will allow you to accurately regulate the air pressure supplied to the airbrush, depending on the thickness of the paint and the required artistic techniques.

Most airbrush problems are caused by poor, irregular or improper cleaning. Even after a short time with it or when changing the dye, the device should be rinsed with water (in the case of using water-based paints). If special dyes are used, then cleaning the airbrush consists in rinsing it with solvents or cleaning solutions. Do not leave any type of paint in the tank for long periods of time.

It will be possible to qualitatively clean the airbrush from the paint after its complete disassembly.

Loosen the collet securing the needle.

Remove the needle from the instrument.

Unscrew the needle feed mechanism with the collet clamp. You will see the main rubbing parts of the airbrush that need to be lubricated after cleaning. As a lubricant, you can use lithol.

Next, you should remove the lever, trying not to lose the bracket, which will fall out of the case if you turn it with the hole for the button down. The lever must also be lubricated with lithology.

Remove the needle protection cap at the front of the device.

Remove the cap protecting the nozzle.

If cleaning of the nozzle is required, then it is unscrewed with the key that comes with the tool.

Next, remove the lid from the paint container.

Important! It will be necessary to completely disassemble the airbrush only in case of interruptions in its operation or to lubricate the rubbing elements. Usually, lubrication of the device elements is required if the lever is no longer pressed smoothly, or it moves with difficulty.

Cleaning the airbrush after finishing work or changing the dye can be done in a simpler way, without completely disassembling the device.

Remove paint residues from the device.
Remove the needle from the body of the instrument and wipe it from the blunt end to the sharp end. Be careful not to damage the sharpened end of the needle.
Pour a small amount of water or solvent into the container. Rinse the container and dry it with a rag.
Blow out the device with air with a container filled with cleaning agent.
Unscrew the protective cap of the needle and wipe it with solvent, then replace the cap.
Insert the needle into the device and secure it with the collet.
Blow the airbrush again with air.

This washing station is made in the form of a container with an opening for inserting an airbrush. The cleaner is convenient in that it protects the user from inhalation of solvent vapors harmful to health, since it sprayed inside the container.

It is quite difficult to rinse the airbrush after the acrylic if it has dried up, since the paint contains film-forming substances. Methods for cleaning acrylic from an airbrush vary depending on how long the paint has been in the tool.

If you want to wash off the acrylic stain that not dry yet, then ordinary water will do. Cleaning the device will speed up if the water is warm.
Finding paint in a tool more than an hour (up to a day) leads to its hardening. In this case, it is not too late to soften and remove the acrylic with ordinary vodka, alcohol or alcohol-containing liquids.
In the most neglected case, if acrylic was in the device several days, then it can be removed only with gasoline, acetone, white spirit or kerosene.

Under the influence of the above substances, the softening of the acrylic paint film former takes about 30 minutes. It is necessary to pour some solvent into the tank several times and moisten the rest of the airbrush elements clogged with acrylic with it.

Important! Do not soak the device in solvent, as rubber and plastic seals may fail. Special brushes are usually used to remove softened paint.

Published on 06/27/2016 by ArinaIn the event of breakdowns of a different nature, it is almost always possible to independently diagnose the cause of the problem and, having the necessary materials at hand, cope with it.- material or air nozzle not fully twisted;- the seal of the material or water nozzle is worn out or damaged;- material nozzle in microcracks.- the seal of the needle is worn out, especially when working with solvent-based enamels;- the bushing fixing the needle seal is not tightened enough. the sleeve must be tightened with a clockwork tool or needle seal changer.- Clogged nozzle due to poorly diluted or too coarse paint. Thorough dilution of the paint to the consistency of "milk" and thorough filtering of the paint will help;- the collet clamp is not fixed on the needle;- it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the airbrush, especially the manipulation of plugging the nose of the airgraph with a finger and “bubbling” the accumulated dirt back into the tank helps. in this way, the entire nose of the airbrush and needles are washed by itself;- perhaps there is no air supply due to a damaged or defective air valve - you can check its operation by screwing the valve to the hose separately from the airbrush;- spare parts may be confused between replaceable sets of different diameters of needles, material and air nozzles (0.2 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.5 mm, etc.), if the “native” diameter was changed to another.- paint adhered to the needle or in the airbrush channel - it is necessary to clean the airbrush channel with special brushes and wipe the needle with a cotton pad soaked in flushing liquid;- the needle has a slight deformation at the tip and catches the nozzle; a number of manufacturers can actually return the needle to its original state by soft sanding with an abrasive.- the tip of the needle is damaged - it is possible to sand it or replace the needle with a new part.Moscow, metro Kitay Gorod, Khokhlovsky lane 7-9 bldg 3Monday to Friday:
from 10:00 to 20:00Saturday:
from 12:00 to 17:00 (on weekends) Image - DIY airbrush repair

An airbrush (air brush - translated from English) is a compact spray gun, with the help of which paint is sprayed (sprayed) in a thin strip onto any surface. In principle, its operation is similar to that of a spray gun, but there is also a significant difference, one might say a fundamental one. This is that with the help of an airbrush you can make beautiful images and apply them to almost any surface. Such a device is convenient to apply unique images, even with small details.Despite the fact that you can find various models on sale, many are wondering how to make an airbrush with their own hands at home and how difficult and costly it is.

All airbrushes are divided into several types, according to the following characteristics:

A method of mixing streams of air and paint. There are external and internal mixing. The first option has a simpler design.
The method of supplying paint and the location of the container. There are models with top, side and bottom feeding, in addition, there are devices in which the paint is supplied by means of air at a certain pressure.
Control type. Single, double and independent action.

The main components of the airbrush:

Container for paint or varnish;
Compressor;
Receiver;
Nozzle;
Lever and control valve;
Air valve;
Needle;
Airbrush stand;
Pen.

The design of most models is the same, regardless of the location of the container for varnish or paint. Although some details may differ, the principle of operation remains the same.

Important: a fire extinguisher for assembling an airbrush with your own hands must be in good condition, without external deformations, and there must be no rust inside.

If there is rust, you can use a special remover, paint baking powder, thinner, wire brush, or a drill with special attachments. It is advisable to treat the places where there was rust with a special solution for binding rust. After that, the surface must be treated with a metal primer and painted. This must be done strictly according to the instructions.

Tip: Pay special attention to the inside of the neck and the lid.

Among the many options for how to make a compressor for an airbrush with your own hands, the most common and demanded are a compressor from a refrigerator and a car compressor for inflating wheels.

The main advantages of choosing a compressor from a refrigerator for an airbrush:

There is no need for additional power supplies, as they work from a standard 220V network;
Availability;
Long time of non-stop work;
Low noise level.

Such compressors are designed to work not with air, but with freon;
Periodic oil changes are required.

Pros of a car compressor for making an airbrush with your own hands:

Optimal pressure;
High performance;
Mobility;
Easy to install and operate, adapts well to the system.

Quite high noise level;
The time of continuous work is limited.
A powerful battery is required.

If you still compare these two options, then an airbrush from a car compressor can be called more preferable. It allows you to obtain a sufficient pressure of about 7 atmospheres and high productivity in the range of 70-73 l / min.With the unit from the refrigerator, it is unlikely that it will be possible to obtain such indicators.

First, you need to remove all unnecessary - kerchiefs, an air duct with a fitting, a handle, rubber feet. All this will come in handy in the future, so you do not need to throw anything away.

The second step is to adapt the compressor to the system. This is done using an adapter for pipe threads, depending on the thread itself. Most often it is 1/4 or 1/2 inch.

Insert the duct tube into the barrel. Pre-cut in half. The joint, if desired, can be sealed from the inside, but this is not necessary, the main thing is that the connection is airtight.

The assembly of all parts of the compressor is carried out using plumbing fittings and fittings (plumbing).

You will also need to prepare: