DIY ARV repair

Here is a complete description of the gas valve bulkhead. Economy for the gas boiler AOGV Zhukovsky. And in all our subsequent work with you, regarding the diagnosis of unit malfunctions, we will constantly refer to this article in order to get to the true cause of the boiler malfunctioning and quickly defeat the cold making its way into the house.

So! To begin with, consider the insides of the valve in the first small diagram, by the way, kindly provided to us by the Zhukovsky plant. It is not very comfortable, but nonetheless.

How does a gas valve work?

1. Starting the igniter. Push the button of the solenoid valve (22). When pressed, the valve needle will push down through the sealed diaphragm (25) onto the stem of the upper valve (24) and the gas, through the slots in the seat (the seat is not shown in the diagram) of the upper valve (24) will rush into the hole leading to the pilot. It should be noted right away that the position of the top valve (24) is normally closed. If the button is released, the spring will push it back. And the position of the bottom valve is normally open. Another spring opens it until it is closed when the boiler is heated by the “accordion” expansion of the temperature of the bellows-thermocylinder. The O-ring (28) is a sealed gasket between the top valve seat and the body of the block. After the igniter has lit up, the thermocouple has heated up, and we have released the valve button (22), which has remained in the pressed position, you can proceed to start the main burner.

On gas boilers AOGV Econom, a gas valve is cut into the gas pipeline between the gas block and the burner. When starting the igniter on a cold boiler, this gas cock must be closed. This is to ensure that the gas does not split between the igniter and the burner. To ignite the igniter confidently. We open the tap, the burner lights up. If the boiler starts up hot, then the lower valve of the block can be closed. It is kept in this state by a warmed-up thermowell-bellows. In this case, the main burner will start when the temperature control knob is turned in the direction of increasing the temperature.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. After the burner has lit up and the boiler has started to work, the question arises, what will happen next? Then the following happens. The lower valve (23) on a cold boiler is always initially normally open, because it is squeezed out by a spring. This valve will close only when the “accordion” of the bellows-thermo bulb, expanding when the set temperature is set, presses with its stem, which goes inside the valve body, through the seal (27) on the lever, which will begin to close and close the lower valve (23), and the burner will go out. By turning the knob of the temperature regulator of the bellows-thermal bulb, you are able to set any temperature within the permitted range, i.e. to enable the bellows-thermo-balloon “accordion” to press on the stem and close the lower valve both at + 35C and + 90C.

3. Idling. When the lower valve (23) is closed, gas access to the boiler burner is closed, and the boiler remains operating only on the igniter. Transferring heat to the heat carrier of the heating system, the boiler gradually cools down. The "accordion" of the thermal bellows gradually shrinks. The spring of the lower valve (23) tends to push it down, to the open position, and when the spring force is higher than the force of the “accordion” of the bellows-thermal bulb, the valve will move and open the gas access to the burner, which will “light up” from the igniter flame. With the scheme finished.

Now so. Everything that you will see here now represents the foundation on which the correct diagnosis of any malfunction can only be built.associated with the operation of the gas valve AOGV Econom. All other assumptions not based on this knowledge are usually wrong. They either entail absolutely useless waste of time and money, and if successfully implemented, they still do not provide reliability. And the Econom valve is a great and extremely reliable thing. Make sure now.

Functionally, the block consists of two parts. Top and bottom. The first part, the top one, is the hardest part. We need two things: attention and accuracy. There is no rush.

Top part. Remove the solenoid valve from above. When separating the valve, we hold the needle sticking out downward so that it does not fall out. (More details here.)

We take out the rubber membrane. She sits pretty tightly. We are not afraid! Carefully, so as not to damage, we pick it out from there.

Under the membrane we see a plastic cap, into which, when pressed, the needle of the solenoid valve rests. We take out the cap.

Next, we see the upper inner sleeve. The sleeve sits loosely. We take it out. When we take it out, we see that the bushing has a hole for the passage of gas inside our gas block.

This is the hole. When reassembling, these holes, of course, must be aligned. Next, we see a sealing rubber ring between the block body and the upper valve seat. The top valve, when pressed, allows gas to the pilot. The saddle has slots. It is through these slots that the gas goes down, and with the upper valve open, it goes to the igniter. We take a screwdriver and pry this thing right behind the slots.

The top valve seat and the top valve itself are in our hands. If the gas goes down through the slots in the seat, we understand that the working surface of the upper valve is in contact with the seat from below. After that, calmly take out the lower sleeve and see a hole in it. Where does it lead to? Right. To the igniter. This hole is located clearly opposite the fitting, onto which we then screw the boiler igniter nut.

If we look inside the block after all the above manipulations, we will see the bottom valve seat with holes for gas passage to the main burner.

For a more complete understanding, we give a small layout of the elements in the next photo.

1. Bottom valve seat O-ring. Should be between block body and bottom valve seat.

2. Hole through which gas initially enters the unit. This hole should be aligned with the hole in the top bushing. otherwise, the gas simply will not enter the block.

3. These are the holes in the bottom valve seat for the gas to pass to the main burner.

5. Fitting leading gas to the igniter.

6. A hole allowing gas to pass to the igniter. It must be aligned with the hole in the lower bushing of the block.

It should also be noted that at the gas inlet to the block, in the place where the entire block is attached to our boiler, a mesh filter is installed at the inlet.

Now let's move on to the second half of our block.

Bottom part. Remove the valve cover by unscrewing 6 screws.

An amazing picture arises before our eyes that answers the question "What is an Economy gas valve?" Answer: Nothing! The word "Nothing" is meant in an exclusively joyful and positive aspect. I mean its simplicity, accessibility to understanding, even if you like - the beauty of the solution. And most importantly, the independence of the operation of this device from anything. We prove our words.

1. This is a gas pipe through which gas flows to the main burner of the boiler when the lower valve is opened.

2. This is the bottom valve itself. Moreover, it is worth noting that its working surface is on top. That is, when closed, the valve is firmly pressed against the upper seat. The bottom valve is now open, as we filmed it all on a cold boiler.

3. Lever. We call this the bottom valve rocker.

4. A very important thing.A pin resembling an ordinary nail.

5. Sylphion-thermocylinder stem.

Now let's get back to the question of how our gas valve works.

1. Starting the igniter. The start and operation of the igniter belongs entirely to the upper part of the gas block. Pressing the button, starting the gas, igniting the igniter, heating the thermocouple and, as a result of this, fixing the button in the pressed position refers to the operation of the upper valve, thermocouple, solenoid valve and that's it.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. As we can see from the photo taken on a cold boiler, the bottom valve is always open. Those. when you press the button and start the gas to the igniter, part of the gas will go to the burner. To prevent this from happening, there is a gas cock between the gas block and the burner. By the way, this tap is present only at the boilers of the Zhukovsky plant. And then so. See that the stem of the thermal bellows (5) is missing to the rocker arm (3)? When the boiler reaches the set temperature, the bellows-thermo-bulb “accordion” will begin to move apart, pressing on the rocker arm, it will displace the lower valve (2) until it is completely closed. When gas access to the burner is completely closed by the lower valve, the boiler remains at idle speed. Only the igniter works. When the boiler cools down, the “accordion” is compressed, and the lower valve is slightly opened by a spring installed on the valve stem. The burner starts up.

Let's continue. We take the pliers and easily remove the rocker pin. By the way, over time, it starts to jam. Lubricate it or replace with any nail that fits the diameter. We remove the rocker with a screwdriver towards ourselves. As soon as we release the rocker arm, the bottom valve will fall down.

We take the lower valve in our hands. It is no different from the top, except for the length of the stem. Want to change your aperture? It's easy. We pull off the ring that fixes and at the same time tightens the diaphragm.

In this photo, you can clearly see the trail of castor oil to see where the working surface of the valve is in order to evenly tighten the diaphragm with the ring.

So. There is still one thing left. Replacing the stem seal of the thermal bellows assembly. We take out the stock with pliers. We pick out the gum of the seal with a thin screwdriver. We just take it out. We see the place where it lies. We put a new one.
See also here what to do if the temperature regulator knob is jammed in the Economy ZhMZ block

When reassembling, do not forget to align the holes on the bushings with the working holes of the igniter and gas inlet to the block.

Prologue. There is no device in the world that is simpler and more reliable than this thing. It is a pity when we are forced to bring and sell assembled gas valves, instead of unscrewing 10 screws (4 for the magnetic box and 6 for the valve cover), go over, find and see the malfunction and do everything 10 times cheaper than it costs in a new form at the factory.

Golden Rule. In gas technology, problems are not shut up only with money! They are also solved with the head. You can spend money, and the effect of this will be ZERO. It is clear that it is difficult to adapt to this. Well, actually, the article was written for this. )))))

Promise. We personally with you, with our own hands, a little later, will definitely pick (and there is no doubt about that) a couple of imported valves. So that someone does not yell at us about how this valve is more reliable than the valve that we just disassembled.

Telephones for communication:

Operator: 8 (495) 506 81 52

Master: 8 (903) 297 35 57

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8 (909) 240 90 51

127224 Moscow

st. Severodvinskaya 13

Repair of the automatic system of the gas boiler AOGV-17.4-3

Gasification of Russian settlements has been going on at a rather intensive rate recently. The main element of the equipment that is installed in every rural house is a gas boiler. The author of this material shares his experience in repairing the automation of the popular in rural areas gas boiler AOGV - 17.4-3 produced by the Zhukovsky Mechanical Plant.

Purpose and description of the main units of AOGV - 17.3-3.

The appearance of the heating gas boiler AOGV - 17.3-3 is shown on rice. one , and its main parameters are given in the table.

Its main elements are shown in rice. 2 ... The numbers in the figure indicate: 1-type breaker; 2- thrust sensor; 3-wire of the traction sensor; 4-start button; 5-door; 6- gas solenoid valve; 7-adjusting nut; 8-tap; 9-storage tank; 10-burner; 11-thermocouple; 12- igniter; 13-thermorigulator; 14-base; 15- water supply pipe; 16-heat exchanger; 17-turbulator; 18- bellows assembly; 19-water drainage pipe; 20-door traction interrupter; 21-thermometer; 22-filter; 23-cap.

The boiler is made in the form of a cylindrical tank. On the front side there are controls, which are covered with a protective cover. Gas valve 6 (fig. 2) consists of an electromagnet and a valve. The valve is used to control the gas supply to the igniter and burner. In the event of an emergency, the valve automatically shuts off the gas. Traction breaker 1 serves to automatically maintain the vacuum value in the boiler furnace when measuring the draft in the chimney. For its normal operation, the door 20 should freely, without jamming, rotate on the axis. Thermostat 13 designed to maintain a constant water temperature in the tank.

The automation device is shown in rice. 3 ... Let us dwell in more detail on the meaning of its elements. Gas passing through a purification filter 2, 9 (fig. 3) enters the solenoid gas valve 1... To valve using union nuts 3, 5 traction temperature sensors are connected. The ignition is ignited when the start button is pressed 4... On the body of the thermostat 6 there is a setting scale 9... Its divisions are graduated in degrees Celsius.

The value of the desired water temperature in the boiler is set by the user using the adjusting nut 10... Rotation of the nut leads to linear movement of the bellows. 11 and stock 7... The thermostat consists of a bellows-thermoballoon assembly installed inside the tank, as well as a system of levers and a valve located in the thermostat housing. When the water heats up to the temperature indicated on the dial, the thermostat is triggered, and the gas supply to the burner stops, while the igniter continues to work. When the water in the boiler has cooled down for 10 . 15 degrees, gas supply will resume. The burner ignites from the pilot flame. During the operation of the boiler, it is strictly forbidden to adjust (reduce) the temperature with a nut. 10 - this could damage the bellows. It is possible to reduce the temperature at the setpoint only after the water in the tank has cooled down to 30 degrees. It is forbidden to set the temperature on the sensor above 90 degrees - this will trigger the automatic device and turn off the gas supply. The appearance of the thermostat is shown in (fig. 4) .

Actually, the procedure for turning on the device is quite simple, and besides, it is described in the operating instructions. And yet, consider a similar operation with a few comments:

- open the inlet gas supply valve (the valve handle should be directed along the pipe);

- press and hold the start button. At the bottom of the boiler, a hiss of escaping gas will be heard from the pilot nozzle. Then ignite the igniter and after 40. 60 and release the button. This time delay is necessary to warm up the thermocouple. If the boiler has not been in operation for a long time, the igniter should be ignited 20.30 s after pressing the start button. During this time, the igniter will be filled with gas, displacing the air.

After releasing the start button, the igniter goes out. A similar defect is associated with a malfunction of the boiler automation system. Note that it is strictly forbidden to operate the boiler with the automatics turned off (for example, if you forcibly jam the start button in the pressed state). This can lead to tragic consequences, since with a short-term interruption of the gas supply or when the flame is extinguished by a strong stream of air, gas will begin to flow into the room.

To understand the causes of such a defect, let's take a closer look at the operation of the automation system. In fig. 5 shows a simplified diagram of this system.

The circuit consists of an electromagnet, a valve, a draft sensor and a thermocouple. To turn on the igniter, press the start button.The stem connected to the button presses on the valve membrane, and the gas begins to flow to the igniter. After that, the igniter is ignited.

The pilot flame touches the temperature sensor housing (thermocouple). After some time (30.40 s), the thermocouple heats up and an EMF appears at its terminals, which is sufficient for the electromagnet to operate. The latter, in turn, fixes the stem in the lower (as in Fig. 5) position. The trigger can now be released.

The thrust sensor consists of a bimetallic plate and a contact (fig. 6). The sensor is located in the upper part of the boiler, near the flue gas outlet pipe to the atmosphere. In the event of a pipe blockage, its temperature rises sharply. The bimetallic plate heats up and breaks the voltage supply circuit to the electromagnet - the rod is no longer held by the electromagnet, the valve closes and the gas supply stops.

The arrangement of the elements of the automation device is shown in Fig. 7. It shows that the electromagnet is covered with a protective cap. The wires from the sensors are located inside the thin-walled tubes. The tubes are attached to the electromagnet using union nuts. The body terminals of the sensors are connected to the electromagnet through the body of the tubes themselves.

The check during the repair of a gas boiler begins with the "weakest link" of the automation device - the draft sensor. The sensor is not protected by a casing, therefore, after 6.12 months of operation, it becomes "overgrown" with a thick layer of dust. Bimetal plate (see fig. 6) quickly oxidizes, which leads to poor contact.

Remove the dust coat with a soft brush. Then the plate is pulled away from the contact and cleaned with fine emery paper. It should not be forgotten that the contact itself must be cleared. Good results are obtained by cleaning these elements with a special spray "Contact". It contains substances that actively destroy the oxide film. After cleaning, a thin layer of liquid lubricant is applied to the plate and contact.

The next step is to check the integrity of the thermocouple. It operates in a severe thermal mode, since it is constantly in the igniter flame, naturally, its service life is much less than the rest of the boiler elements.

The main defect of a thermocouple is burnout (destruction) of its body. In this case, the transient resistance at the place of welding (junction) sharply increases. As a result, the current in the Thermocouple - Electromagnet circuit.

The bimetallic plate will be below the nominal value, which leads to the fact that the electromagnet can no longer fix the rod (fig. 5) .

A low value of thermo-EMF generated by a thermocouple can be caused by the following reasons:

- clogging of the ignition nozzle (as a result, the heating temperature of the thermocouple may be lower than the nominal). "Treat" a similar defect by cleaning the pilot hole with any soft wire of a suitable diameter;

- by shifting the position of the thermocouple (naturally, it may not heat up enough either). Eliminate the defect as follows - loosen the screw that secures the liner near the igniter and adjust the position of the thermocouple (Figure 10);

- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

If the EMF at the terminals of the thermocouple is normal (while maintaining the signs of malfunction indicated above), then the following elements are checked:

- the integrity of the contacts at the connection points of the thermocouple and the draft sensor.

Oxidized contacts must be cleaned. The union nuts are tightened, as they say, "by hand". In this case, it is undesirable to use a wrench, since you can easily break the wires suitable for the contacts;

- the integrity of the electromagnet winding and, if necessary, solder its conclusions.

The performance of the electromagnet can be checked as follows. Disconnect the thermocouple lead. Press and hold the start button, then ignite the igniter. From a separate source of constant voltage to the vacated contact of the electromagnet (from the thermocouple), a voltage of about 1 V is applied relative to the case (at a current of up to 2 A).To do this, you can also use a regular battery (1.5 V), the main thing is that it provides the required operating current. The button can now be released. If the igniter is not extinguished, the electromagnet and the thrust sensor are in good working order;

First, the force of pressing the contact to the bimetallic plate is checked (with the indicated signs of malfunction, it is often insufficient). To increase the clamping force, release the lock nut and move the contact closer to the plate, then tighten the nut. In this case, no additional adjustments are required - the pressure force does not affect the sensor response temperature. The sensor has a large margin for the angle of deflection of the plate, ensuring reliable breaking of the electrical circuit in the event of an accident.

It is not possible to ignite the igniter - the flame flares up and immediately goes out.

There may be the following possible reasons for such a defect:

- closed or faulty gas valve at the boiler inlet,
- the hole in the ignition nozzle is clogged, in this case it is enough to clean the nozzle hole with a soft wire;
- the pilot flame is blown out due to the strong air draft;
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

The gas supply is cut off when the boiler is in operation:

- actuation of the draft sensor due to blockage of the chimney, in this case it is necessary to check and clean the chimney;
- the electromagnet is faulty, in this case the electromagnet is checked according to the above method;
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

A modern gas boiler is a complex device consisting of both mechanical elements and electronic equipment. Therefore, not in all cases can you figure out how to repair a gas boiler yourself.

However, if an element that is not directly related to the gas supply breaks down, then with minimal skills, it is possible to eliminate the malfunction without calling a specialist. How to do this is described in detail in the article.

A typical gas boiler consists of many elements, which can basically be grouped into 3 groups:

1. Burner.
2. Blocks providing safety.
3. A heat exchange unit equipped with several additional devices, which include a fan, a circulation pump and many others.

The structure of this mechanism can be simplified as follows.

But if you detail the picture, you can find about 2 dozen different elements in the device.

The main danger during repairs is a possible gas leak. This can happen due to improper repair, dismantling or installation of equipment that is associated with the fuel supply.

Therefore, it is better to entrust the repair of these parts of the structure to a specialist. Also, do not troubleshoot the electronic equipment of gas boilers on your own. Automation is a specific device, therefore, without appropriate qualifications, it is almost impossible to correctly carry out restoration work and repair such equipment yourself.

All other elements can be repaired by yourself, for example:

1. Heat exchanger flushing performed manually (for this, the unit is dismantled, after which it must be correctly put in place). It is possible to carry out these works without dismantling - using pumps.
2. Chimney cleaning will be needed in cases where there is a problem with traction (mechanical or chemical removal of blockages is performed).
3. Fan repair pressurization by lubricating its bearings with technical oil.

In fact, it is possible to repair a gas boiler on your own only in those cases when it comes to mechanical damage or blockages that can be easily identified visually (or by smell).

The rest of the breakdowns are considered more serious, therefore they are eliminated with the help of a specialist, and not with your own hands.

Before figuring out how to repair a gas boiler with your own hands, it is useful to understand exactly why malfunctions occur.Correct understanding of the reasons will help to avoid the problem in the future. Practice shows that 4 harmful factors are most often affected:

• Electricity drops - this problem is especially relevant in remote settlements and villages. Modern equipment is necessarily equipped with stabilizers, as well as energy storage devices, which ensure the operation of the device for a short time even after the source is turned off. Therefore, if there are no such devices, you should purchase them in advance.

• Poor quality water - this problem arises in cases where the equipment is used not only for heating, but also for obtaining hot water for domestic purposes (double-circuit gas boiler). The equipment is not damaged by the water itself, but by the presence of salts in it, which increase the hardness. If the concentration of these insoluble substances is high enough, it can lead to equipment wear in as little as 1-2 seasons. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the installation of filters that purify water.

• Installation errors can lead to rather serious consequences, including fatal breakdowns, failure of all equipment. Therefore, this work can only be entrusted to qualified specialists.
• Finally, a role can also be played by frosty winters... Usually, during such a period, the neighbors turn on the equipment at full capacity, and in this mode it works for a long time. As a result, the pressure in the gas pipeline system drops significantly, and the boilers begin to work largely in vain. At this point, you can use equipment that runs on a different fuel (for example, diesel). It makes sense to purchase it if the region has long, harsh winters.

If you are not sure what is faulty, it is strictly forbidden to start repairing the gas boiler yourself, as this carries a potential hazard. Correct diagnostics is the most important requirement for work, especially if they are carried out independently.

In modern devices, breakdowns are diagnosed by electronic systems (sensors) that show the temperature and other important indicators. If a serious malfunction is detected, the system simply turns off the gas boiler in order to avoid unwanted, dangerous consequences.

In other cases, it is possible to detect a breakdown on your own only with the help of the senses:

• visually;
• by smell (gas leak);
• by the sound of the equipment;
• to the touch.

First of all, you need to refer to the instructions. Even if the original version is lost, it can be easily restored by downloading the desired brochure from open Internet sources. Almost all instructions have a section and cards describing the most common malfunctions, as well as ways to diagnose and eliminate them.

Such short tutorials describe in detail what signals the automatic display system gives in case of certain malfunctions:

• blinking of lamps in a certain mode (fast, slow) and in a certain color (red, yellow, green);
• continuous burning of a light bulb;
• the display shows a specific error code (usually a two-digit number).

Even if repaired on one's own the gas boiler does not work, you still need to print the instructions specifically for this model. A specialist called at home should also familiarize himself with the features of the mechanism, including with the help of a brochure from the manufacturer.

The most common breakdowns of a gas boiler are described in the table.

Modern gas boilers are quite sophisticated technological equipment. With proper care and proper handling, the gas boiler will serve for a long time without any interruptions. However, even the most expensive and functional equipment has its own resource, after the exhaustion of which all sorts of malfunctions begin to appear.

DIY gas boiler repair

Knowing the main causes of malfunctions and the procedure for eliminating them, you can repair your gas boiler with your own hands. This is a very painstaking, responsible, but in most cases relatively easy job.

Contents of step-by-step instructions:

First of all, it is necessary to establish why any malfunctions may occur in the operation of gas heating boilers. A number of different factors can lead to problems.

Modern gas boilers are equipped with various automation equipment. These funds, in turn, are powered by electricity. And, despite the fact that the 21st century is already in the yard and systems for the use of alternative energy sources are being actively developed around the world, the problem of stability of power grids remains relevant for many regions, especially for remote villages and all kinds of summer cottages.

A sudden power outage or a strong surge in electricity is one of the main enemies of any modern gas boiler.

To avoid all the accompanying troubles, buy a quality stabilizer in advance. Do not spare money to buy this device - there is little sense from cheap models, so it is better to immediately allocate funds to purchase a good stabilizer from a well-known manufacturer. Be sure that in the event of a breakdown of the automation, you will spend much more money on its repair and replacement.

At home, wall-mounted models of gas boilers are often used. Such devices are simultaneously responsible for both space heating and hot water preparation.

The design of wall-hung boilers includes a flow-through heat exchanger. Low-quality hard water with various impurities is the main enemy of the heat exchanger of a gas boiler. At the same time, under the influence of low-quality water, the heat exchanger can fail in just one season.

Install special filters to prevent such damage. The best option is a complete water purification system. With it, your boiler will work as long as possible, and using purified water is much safer for health.

Any knowledgeable person will tell you: only qualified specialists should be engaged in the installation and piping of gas heating equipment.

Even the slightest mistakes at the stages of installation and connection of equipment can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, an incorrectly executed piping in the case of a cast-iron gas boiler more powerful than 50 kW will lead to the fact that at low temperatures the unit will simply split.

If you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the boiler installation to professionals.

Therefore, if you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the installation of the boiler to professionals - this way you will save yourself from many problems in the future.

Unfavorable weather conditions can also lead to the appearance of many different problems. In frosty winters, people turn on the heating at almost full capacity. This leads to a significant decrease in pressure in the gas pipeline system. As a result, boilers cannot fully realize their potential.

You will not be able to solve this problem on your own - you still cannot explain to your neighbors that by their actions they only aggravate the situation. As a solution to the problem, you can install an additional boiler that runs on a different fuel.

Automatic solid fuel coal-fired boiler with hopper

A modern gas boiler is a complex and potentially dangerous system. The main danger of such units is the risk of a gas explosion in the event of improper handling of the equipment or untimely elimination of various malfunctions.

Various kinds of automation are responsible for maintaining the operation of the gas boiler at an optimal level. An inexperienced user is often unable to understand its device. Therefore, it is better to immediately invite specialists to troubleshoot serious problems.

On your own, you can try to eliminate only visible damage and various contaminants that have led to the failure of the pipe, chimney and other parts of the boiler.

Typical malfunctions of gas boilers

There are a number of typical problems that you can fix yourself in most cases. Problems will also be listed, in the event of which you can only protect yourself before the arrival of a specialist.

If a distinct smell of gas or smoke appears in the room, immediately turn off the boiler and leave the room, opening it for ventilation.

Gas boiler functionality diagram

Call a professional immediately. Trying to solve the gas leak problem on your own without the necessary skills is extremely dangerous and unreasonable.

If the flame sensor or the gas supply pipe breaks down, turn off the boiler, close all gas valves and let the unit cool down completely.

Return to the area after a while to check for the smell of gas. If everything is in order with the draft, try to turn on the boiler again. If there is no thrust, immediately call a repairman.

Overheating is one of the most common problems in modern gas boilers. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the automation equipment or a clogged heat exchanger.

It is impossible to cope with the repair of automation without the appropriate knowledge.

You can also clean the heat exchanger with your own hands. The most common materials for the manufacture of heat exchangers are copper and stainless steel. There is usually no problem cleaning them, but be extremely careful anyway.

Primary heat exchanger for wall mounted gas boiler Beretta

According to the recommendations of manufacturers, heat exchangers should be cleaned of soot every few years (each manufacturer indicates a specific interval in the instructions for their equipment).

Primary heat exchanger (heating circuit) of the gas boiler Rinnai SMF

To clean the heat exchanger, simply remove it and clean it thoroughly with a metal brush. In the case of a copper heat exchanger, it is best to replace the brush with a metal sponge used for washing dishes.

The problematic place of fans is their bearings. If the fan of your boiler stops developing the set number of revolutions, try to eliminate the problem as soon as possible.

Fan (3311806000) for Daewoo gas boiler

To do this, remove the back of the fan, take out the stator and lubricate the bearings. Machine oil is fine for lubrication, but it is best to use a higher quality carbon compound with heat-resistant properties if possible.

Fan RLA97 (Aa10020004) for gas boiler Electrolux

Also, an interturn short circuit can lead to problems with the fan. Only a specialist can cope with the elimination of this malfunction. Return the stator for repair to replace the winding, or immediately replace the faulty unit with a new device.

Gas boiler chimney diagram

Often, excessive clogging of the coaxial chimney leads to the appearance of various malfunctions in the operation of a gas heating boiler.

Remove the chimney and thoroughly clean all of its components from soot. So you will not only return the previous level of efficiency of the unit, but also significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler.

The boiler can shut down spontaneously for several reasons. This usually happens due to a malfunction of the combustion sensor. This problem, in turn, most often leads to contamination of the gas pipe.

Draft sensor 87 ° C for Thermona boiler

Remove the branch pipe, rinse it thoroughly with water, clean it with a cotton swab and blow it off the remaining moisture. Put the pipe back in place and try to turn on the boiler. If it doesn't help, call the wizard.

No wonder they say: the best repair is prevention.Gas boilers require annual preventive maintenance, which must be carried out before the start of the heating season.

Whenever possible, maintenance should be carried out twice a year, before and after the heating season.

Check all the previously discussed boiler elements for their serviceability. Follow the preventive maintenance recommendations given by the manufacturer in the instructions specific to your boiler. Eliminate any malfunctions that arise in time, if possible.

Remember! A gas boiler is a potentially hazardous equipment. Incorrect use and untimely troubleshooting can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, be careful and do not engage in any repair work if you doubt your ability and correctness of action. Otherwise, follow the instructions provided.