In conclusion, a few words about how to properly operate your laptop battery.
At one time, laptops gained immense popularity due to the ability to work from a rechargeable battery, which made it possible not to be chained to one place and to do the necessary work almost everywhere. The first models could not last very long without a charge, and the nickel-metal hydride batteries used had a lot of disadvantages. But manufacturers did not sit idly by, and over several decades, battery manufacturing technologies have undergone dramatic changes. The vast majority of notebook computers today use lithium-ion batteries. They can last for quite a long time and are devoid of many of the shortcomings of their predecessors.
But nevertheless, they are not perfect and over time they can also become unusable. A battery malfunction is expressed in the fact that it is discharged very quickly, or the laptop does not correctly display the charge level. In this case, manufacturers and sellers of equipment recommend purchasing a new battery. But, since the cost of the original component is quite high, you can try to correct its work yourself. Depending on the degree of damage, either the battery cells need to be replaced, or it will be sufficient to reset the laptop battery controller.
It is about the last opportunity that we want to tell in more detail in today's article. You will be able to find out in what cases you need to reset the controller, and we will also tell you about possible ways how you can do this yourself at home.
The first thing to do is figure out what the battery controller is. This is a small microcircuit built into the battery itself, which controls its operating condition, as well as the process of charging and discharging. It interacts with the power controller on the motherboard of the laptop itself, and also transfers the necessary system information to the operating system. We hope you understand the diagram. We tried to describe everything in simple terms, but if you want to know the technical details, search the Internet.
When this small IC stops working correctly, it may be necessary to reset the controller. This procedure is popularly known as battery calibration. By and large, there are only two situations when this may be required: incorrect display of the charge and replacement of battery cells.
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An incorrect display of the charge means a situation when the operating system of the laptop, even after a long charge, shows that the charge level is less than 100%, or the charge drops sharply and the laptop turns off not after a few hours, as it should, but much faster. Many people begin to think that the battery has become unusable, but this is not always the case. The problem very often lies in its controller, which simply incorrectly displays the charge.
By replacing battery cells, we mean that in some workshops and service centers they can offer the so-called repacking of the battery, that is, replace the worn-out internal blocks. After that, it is necessary to reset the controller so that all new elements are recognized and can be used correctly. Although, if after replacing the blocks something does not work correctly, you have every right to make a claim and demand correction of defects.
Laptop battery replacement
Now let's take a look at how to reset a laptop battery controller. Let's touch on the software and manual methods.
On some sites you may see a recommendation to use the Battery EEPROM Works program. It is indeed a very powerful and advanced utility that can literally revive the battery in some cases. But there is one big BUT! To use it, you need to know a lot and be able to understand wiring diagrams, as well as have the necessary adapters, which are not always easy to get on the free market. We will not recommend this program to you for use in home devices, as it is very easy to irrevocably damage your battery. What, then, will suit you?
Battery EEPROM Works window
Almost every manufacturer has built-in power management utilities. It can be downloaded from the support site, from the download page of your device's drivers, and in some cases the utility can be either pre-installed or recorded on the included driver disc. Select the reset or calibration function and follow the instructions on the screen exactly. Most often, the utility discharges the battery to zero, and then charges to 100%. The controller will remember the extreme indicators of the charge level and will work as it did immediately upon purchase.
If for some reason you cannot find or install the power management utility, you can manually reset or calibrate the battery. How?
Unplug the laptop from the electrical outlet, then put it into BIOS mode. More details can be found in the article on how to start BIOS mode.
Leave the laptop and do not touch it until it is completely discharged. Take care not to overheat.
Without turning on the laptop, put it on charge. Wait until it is fully charged, for this you can leave it overnight.
In 99% of cases, these simple steps will help bring the battery back to life. Well, if this does not help, buy a new battery, or connect the laptop directly to the outlet, while removing the battery.
If you only use your laptop at home, it may be best to remove the battery for less wear and tear on the battery. But before that, charge it to about 80%, and also check the charge level from time to time, as it is prone to self-discharge. After removing, connect the laptop to the power supply and use it as a stationary computer. This option is suitable for those who have a laptop in only one place, since with this use you can lose data if you disconnect the laptop from the power source during operation.
To increase the operating time for your device, set the appropriate parameters in the power plan settings. Use the power saving mode if necessary.
Friends, today we talked about how to reset the laptop charge controller. We learned that sometimes the problem is not only with the hardware of the computer, but also with the software. Therefore, there is no need to rush to order a new battery right away. We hope that everything worked out for you, and there are no questions left. Do not forget to share your opinion in the comments.
Laptop batteries are expensive hardware, so if you have an old laptop that works fine but needs to be replaced, then before considering discarding your dead laptop battery and replacing it with a new one, you'll want to know how you can still revive. a dead or dying battery if it is at least 60% of the total capacity.Fortunately, there are many ways to help restore a dead battery, some of them are technical in nature, some of them are beautiful and there are some strange ones. But before you go any further, you should also know, it entirely depends on the battery and the factors that led to its death, although the process may or may not work. But, it is worth giving a try to revive the battery using these methods before buying a new one.
It actually sounds ridiculous that freezing a dead laptop battery can bring it back to life, but it's true. You can freeze your laptop battery and therefore extend its life. To do this, follow this procedure, how to do it:
Step 1: First, take out the battery and place it in a sealed bag or plastic bag. Step 2: Then place the bag in the freezer and let it sit for 12 hours. (You can also leave it for a longer period, but not more than 24 hours) Step 3: Once you remove the battery from the refrigerator, remove the plastic bag and let it warm up to room temperature.
Please note: as soon as it gets warm, make sure you wrap it in a towel and wipe off the condensation. Step 4: insert the battery and charge it fully. Step 5: Once it is charged, disconnect it from the mains and let the battery discharge until it is completely discharged.
Then repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 4 times, fully charge the battery and then discharge it completely.
Note: this process is performed only on NiCd or NiMH batteries. Avoid trying this method on a lithium battery as it will only make the battery worse. Unfortunately, there is no way to repair a lithium battery, but it might help to extend the battery life. We follow method 2.
If you have a lithium-ion battery installed, you can extend its life by cooling your laptop. In case you have a laptop that does get hot during use, it can damage the battery and shorten the battery life.
I have personally tried this method on my Sony VAIO laptop and has greatly increased the battery life of the laptop.
This process is not necessary for a new battery, but if the battery dies, it is a fairly old battery. So, in this case, the intertesting test will be beneficial for her. Battery recalibration is done because in some cases the OS cannot figure out how much power is left in the battery. This happens when the laptop is always plugged in or if the battery has never been removed from the laptop.
If your battery does not charge up to 100%, and let's say only up to 95%, or if the OS says that you are experiencing 35 minutes of battery charge, but the car dies sooner or much later, then your laptop battery needs to be calibrated. There are many calibration tools available online for your particular laptop model to do the process automatically, but if you need to manually calibrate your battery, follow the process below.
Step 1: First, charge to 100% or to the maximum value that the battery can reach and then leave it to cool for 2 hours. Step 2: After that, cut off the power and let the battery drain. You can do this in two ways, first, let the battery drain while the laptop is running and then set it to sleep or hibernation at about 3 to 5%. In addition, you must ensure that the display stays on until it either turns off or goes to sleep. Step 3: next, let the machine be off for 3 to 5 hours> then turn on the laptop again and charge to 100%.
Hopefully after that, your laptop should be able to give you a more accurate reading of the actual battery capacity.
If your laptop has a removable battery, then try removing the battery while plugging in. You need to check how the laptop will function normally with the battery removed.Although, if the laptop is working fine and is connected to a power source all the time, you can simply remove the battery.
Chemical reactions continue to occur in the battery whether it is installed in a laptop or not. But, it can increase battery life as the battery is cool when connected. But, you also need to make sure that the operation of the laptop will not shorten its lifespan, otherwise the laptop will die immediately and this can lead to data loss. But if you haven't found this method worthwhile, then follow the last best method.
In this method, you need to charge the battery to 100% and then disconnect the laptop from the mains and when it dies (less than 5%), then connect it to the computer and charge. On the contrary, it will shorten the battery life on a new lithium-ion battery; therefore, in this case, the level cannot be allowed to fall from 35% to 45%, and then charge it from 75% to 85%. This will apparently aim for better battery life, as this method will not use as many charges and recharge cycles.
In this topic, lay out the software necessary for repairing the battery, information that you need to know during repair, typical malfunctions and other necessary information, do not ask questions in this topic.
Laptop battery. Accumulator battery (other names: battery, battery) - this is one of the main devices that distinguish a laptop from a desktop machine, although this does not affect the operation of the laptop as such, but still everyone wants to have a working battery, at least for the sake of not turning off the laptop go from room to kitchen.
Let's see what kind of batteries are in principle: NICKEL-CADMIUM BATTERY - (or abbreviated NiCd) nickel-cadmium; NICKEL METAL-HYDRIDE BATTERY - (or abbreviated NiMH) nickel-metal hydride; LITHIUM ION BATTERY - (or Li-ion for short) lithium-ion batteries. The latter are the most common and are considered to be the best batteries. Is it so?
The emergence of NiMH is due to an attempt to overcome the disadvantages of nickel-cadmium batteries. Eventually: 30 - 50% higher capacity compared to standard NiCd batteries; less prone to memory effect than NiCd. Periodic recovery cycles should be performed less frequently; less toxicity. NiMH technology is considered environmentally friendly.
Another type of popular battery is Lithium Polymer. The difference from Li-ion lies in the name itself and lies in the type of electrolyte used, it is assumed that a dry solid polymer electrolyte is used, however, today technologies do not allow such an element to be made, therefore, a gel is used hot electrolyte, and as a result we get some kind of hybrid. Such batteries do not belong to either pure li-ion or Li-pol, and it would be more correct to call them lithium-ion polymer, but manufacturers call them lithium polymer to promote batteries. As for the pros and cons of li-pol, they are exactly the same as those of li-ion, so further we will consider li-ion, because they are the most common today.
The aforementioned danger of overcharging means the following: overcharging can lead to an increase in cell pressure and leakage. Therefore, the safe operation of batteries is always ensured by an external electronic protection system against overcharging and overdischarging of individual batteries. It includes controllers that measure the voltage of each battery or block of parallel-connected batteries, and a switch for opening the electrical circuit when the voltage limits are reached. Thermistors are used to monitor the temperature of the battery.
Another disadvantage of Li-ion batteries is the fear of a strong discharge (overdischarge). The above-mentioned protection circuit is powered directly from the batteries, and therefore if the cells are completely discharged, the circuit stops working and the cells are not charged, in addition, a deep discharge negatively affects the internal structure of the cells themselves. It is believed that the optimal range for the operation of li-ion cells is 20-100% of the charge, the output below 20% leads to faster aging of the cells.
The service life of Li-ion cells is calculated not only in years of service, but also in charge-discharge cycles, as a rule, until the capacity is reduced by 20%, they provide 500 - 1000 cycles. The further behavior of the elements is rather difficult to predict due to the large number of elements in the battery, most often there is a gradual decrease in capacity, sometimes abruptly, so the protection system keeps track of the number of cycles. On older models of batteries, when a certain cycle value was reached, the protection system closed the battery, and it was not possible to use it. The ability to close the battery when a certain number of cycles is reached remains today, just the number of cycles prescribed in the battery is large enough, and the aging of the elements, and therefore the drop in capacity, occurs earlier. As a rule, the counter value can be reset to zero, but do not forget that using such a battery is somewhat unsafe, the cells in the battery age unevenly, which means that they are charged and discharged also unevenly.
There is another difficulty associated with the counter, what is to be counted as a charge-discharge cycle? Full discharge and full charge? But it is not recommended to completely discharge it. And whether to read a short-term disconnection from the network in a loop? Most modern batteries do not charge if the current charge is more than 90-95%, this avoids unnecessarily high rates of charge-discharge cycles. The figure 90% -95% is relative - on some laptops it can be edited with special utilities.
As for the storage conditions, there is no unambiguous information on this issue, the most common is the opinion that it is necessary to store at a charge of 40% periodically (once every two to three months) recharging to this value.
In general, Li-ion batteries perform best at room temperature. Operation at elevated temperatures dramatically shortens their lifespan.
At low temperatures, battery performance decreases. A temperature of minus 20 ° C is the limit at which Li-ion batteries cease to function.
Battery repair is required in two cases: 1. The battery holds little. She kept the new one for an hour or two or three, and now it is 5-15 minutes. Conclusion - bad elements. Solutions to the problem: a) buy a new battery. b) buy new elements and revive the battery yourself.
2. The battery does not hold at all. Again, there are two options: a) buy a new battery b) buy new elements and revive the battery yourself.
As you can see, there are few problems, and there are also few solutions.
Option b) New elements are definitely needed. 4-6-8-9-12 cell battery - accordingly 4-6-8-9-12 new cells are needed. Just replacing a dead group won't help. Why? The old elements have one capacity, the new one will have a different one. Accordingly, a disbalance will appear on the groups of elements, and the electronics will simply turn off this battery.
Means: 1. We need ALL new items. It is recommended to set the capacity of the elements not less than the nominal one. Those. you had 1800mAh cells - you can put 1800, 2000, 2100, 2200 mAh. There were 2000s - put 2000, 2100, 2200. If, of course, the difference in price is small. If this criterion is important (prices) - then take the elements of the native denomination. 2. We open the battery. 3. The elements must be welded in the same way as the relatives are welded. Look for people who have the right equipment. You can't just solder. Some people say “not recommended”, but believe me - it is NOT.
4. It is necessary to disconnect the elements from the electronics from the greater plus to the smallest. This can be determined visually in most cases. If it doesn't work, arm yourself with a tester.
5. Before welding the elements, connect them all together at night: all the pluses to the pluses, the minuses to the minuses. This is necessary to equalize the potency on the banks.
6. The battery is opened, new elements are purchased, welded like the old ones, the old ones are removed. In theory, all that remains is to solder the new elements to the electronics, and hurray. No, no hurray.It's all about the same electronics. She remembers everything about your old elements - the number of cycles performed, the capacity of the elements, etc. If your battery had a capacity of 4000mAh, and after a year or two or three of its operation its capacity became 200mAh, then even if you substitute new elements into the battery, the electronics "will not believe". The conviction of electronics that it has new elements is called flashing (reset, zeroing) the firmware. What tools are used to do this, see the heading "HARD - hardware that is needed to repair laptop batteries"
7. Now you need to determine which bundle you will be dealing with. The term "bundle" appeared due to the fact that, as a rule, a pair of microcircuits is used on electronics: a control controller and a memory in which various useful data are recorded. There are batteries that have only memory on the electronics, or only a controller. But out of habit, we will continue to call them "bundle". Look carefully at the electronics board. The controller is usually the largest microcircuit on the board. Memory, as a rule, is an 8-pin microcircuit, such as the 24C64,24C32 series and the like.
8. The bundle was identified. Now the question is what and where to change in order to reset the firmware. Some controller manufacturers do not hide this information, and describe everything in detail in datasheets. After reading and understanding the datasheet for your controller, you will know what and what needs to be changed. In some cases, battery manufacturers hide information, and it is extracted bit by bit. But then it is embodied in programs that can be used for repairs. 9. We connect the elements to the electronics from “ground” to “plus”. Those. first "earth", then "plus" of the first element, then the second, and so on. - until the very last.
11. So, if the goal is achieved: the laptop runs on battery for the prescribed hour or two or three (like new), the charge and discharge curve is uniform - then we can be proud of ourselves and consider that we have achieved success.
Read SMbus data via laptop battery connector. Saving SMbus data to a text file. Saving data in its own BQD format (BQ208X data file), for further use in cloning bq208X microcircuits. Reads and writes all memory chips used in laptop batteries. Reading and writing data from flash memory and EEPROM in microcircuits with integrated memory such as: BQ2083, BQ2084, BQ2085, PS401, PS402, BQ20Z70, BQ20Z80, BQ20Z90. Saving data from flash memory and EEPROM in BIN format. Resetting (zeroing) the microcircuit parameters to the initial (factory) parameters in one click of the mouse. Clone password protected ICs with integrated flash memory (bq208X) to new or non-password protected ICs.
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In this thread, we will look at the disassembly and repair of an interesting battery, allegedly assembled in Korea, from a laptop or Samsung netbook, battery brand AA-PB4NC6B. All the same goals will be followed as in other reviews. Namely, the possibility of repair, is it possible to use these batteries if the unit does not work on a laptop, for crafts and other issues. And most importantly, collecting statistics.
And so the characteristics of the battery pack:
Voltage: 11.1V Capacity: 4400 mAhr Power: 49 Wh Number of cells: 6 Cell type: Li-Ion Battery size: 204 x 48 x 20mm Weight: 300g Manufacture (battery / cells) China / Korea Battery color: black
Suitable for laptop series: Samsung 70A00D / SEG, R70A00E / SEG, R39, R408, R458, M60, NP-P50, NP-P60, NP-R40 Plus, NP-R40, NP-R45, NP-R65, NP-R70, NP-X60, P210, P210, P460, P50, P560, P60, Q210, Q310, R40, R410, R41, R45, R460, R460, R505, R509, R510, R560, R60, R610, R65, R70, R700, R710, X360, X460, X60, X65, NP-R710, P510, P60 Pro, Q320, R503, R507, R508, NP-R700, NP-R503, NP-R507, NP-R508
Compatible P / N: AA-PB2NC3B, AA-PB2NC6B, AA-PB2NC6B / E, AA-PB4NC6B, AA-PB4NC6B / E, AA-PB6NC6B, AA-PL2NC9B, AA-PL2NC9B / E, AA-PB2NC6, PB2NC3B, PB2N PB4NC6B, PB4NC6B / E, PB6NC6B, PL2NC9B, PL2NC9B / E, PB2NC6
Cell type: Li-ion (LiCoO2), size: 18650
Item Manufacturer: Samsung Marking ICR18650-20F
Typical capacity: 2000 mAh (real)
Rated voltage: 3.75 V
Minimum voltage: 2.75 V
Maximum voltage: 4.2 V
Maximum charge current: 2A
Maximum discharge current: 4A
Country of manufacture - Korea
Country of origin CHINA!
Model Name: ICR18650-20F Model Type: Bare Cell, Li-ion Cylindrical Nominal Capacity: 2,000mAh Nominal Voltage: 3.65V Charge Method Constant Current Constant Voltage Charge Voltage (V) 4.20 Charge Current (C) 0.5 Discharge Voltage (V) 2.75 Discharge Current (C) 0.2 Dimension (mm) Thickness / Width / Length 18.0 / - / 65.0 Max Weight (g) 43.6 Remark NCM / LMO 1: Nominal Capacity: 0.2C, 2.75V cut-off: Average Discharge Capacity. 2: Nominal Voltage: 0.2C, 2.75V cut-off: Average Discharge Voltage.
These Batteries are all dry, which means that the laptop controller is working with them on the side-altar, and does not really notice their overheating.
There is not a drop or even a hint of electrolyte in the central batteries, as you can see in the following videos.
Now you and I know that in addition to the destruction of copper, boiling off and the release of electrolyte from the battery can also serve as an unpleasant fact.
Statistics are updated and this is the main thing.
Well, a small review is attached:
Video (click to play).
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