DIY Interskol screwdriver battery repair

In detail: do-it-yourself interskol screwdriver battery repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hey! Today we will repair the screwdriver battery. Did you know that the history of the creation of a screwdriver goes back to the deep Middle Ages - already in the 15th century, when the knights put on armor before the battle, and the squires helped them twist parts of the armor, guess what? A screwdriver!

This continued for a long time, until in 1907 the Canadian inventor Peter Robertson patented the Robertson screw with a standard square hole, into which the tip of the screwdriver was inserted. Since that time, screws began to be produced on an industrial scale and used in households. Later, in 1934, inventor Henry Phillips redesigned the head of the screw and a Phillips screw was introduced into which the corresponding screwdriver was inserted. By that time, the engine had already been invented and the idea of creating a "screw and screw rotator" was in the air. However, there were big problems with the batteries - their weight and dimensions. The problem was solved only in the 1980s, when the first nickel-cadmium Ni-Cd and lithium-ion Li-Ion rechargeable batteries appeared.

The USA and Japan were the first to master the production of household and professional cordless drills and screwdrivers. All this happened thanks to the emergence of new energy-intensive batteries of electricity. We will urgently change them inside the Interskol DA-10 / 10.8 ER cordless drill-screwdriver that fell into my hands. The malfunction was like this - when the button was pressed, the engine simply did not spin, but the LED lit up, though the light was weak.

Let's start repairing the screwdriver battery. We remove the battery from the handle of the screwdriver and unscrew the three self-tapping screws that are located under the sticker at the bottom.

After unscrewing the screws, carefully push back the hooks of the latches, as in the photo. And remove the lower part of the plastic battery case.

Video (click to play).

Inside we see lithium-ion cans Chinese company HighStar model ISR18650-1300 Li-Ion. This means that the batteries have never been changed. Because it is known that Interskol purchases batteries from this company and inserts them into almost all of its cordless tools.

The photo below shows the insides of the screwdriver battery in all its glory with three cans, which were produced already in 2011. These batteries lasted five years during active use at a construction site. So the result is very decent. Usually they die earlier, probably in cold weather they were not exploited.

To replace the battery banks, you need to disassemble it even more. I advise you to remember the location of the plus, minus and charging contacts so as not to confuse the wires when reassembling.

Pay attention to the voltage control board on the batteries - especially often stabilizers and protective diodes fail on it. It is imperative to ring suspicious radioelements on this board with a multimeter.

We check the voltage at the output of the battery - it turned out 4.4 volts, and it should be 3.7 x 3 = 11.1 volts in the norm and 10.8 volts with the minimum charge of the batteries. In general, the banks are dead - they need to be changed unambiguously.

This can be done in several ways - you can unsolder the wires that go to the board.

You can also simply remove the contacts from the top battery cover. The photo shows the shape of the curved contacts, so you can easily remove them yourself.

Under the plastic cover, we see how the batteries are connected to each other. Their spot welded... This solution is used in almost any battery of another tool. This is a safe and gentle battery connection. At the same time, the destructive heating of the lithium batteries themselves is minimal.

Gently tear off or bite off the metal tape with pliers to disconnect the cans from each other. From the side of the board, they were also connected with a tape and glued to a cardboard gasket. This is done so as not to short-circuit anything on the board. Remember to put it back in place when reassembling the battery.

Due to the lack of a spot welding device, new lithium-ion batteries will be soldered very quickly with a well-heated powerful soldering iron. We remember that heating lithium-ion batteries reduces their service life and is generally explosive.

Pay particular attention to the condition of the wires inside the battery. They can be broken or frayed. They need to be qualitatively isolated or replaced with fresh ones. Since I was repairing a screwdriver battery on the road in the field, I had to apply a brilliant invention of the engineering mind. He took out a blue radio-technical electrical tape.

When disassembling the battery of the Interskol DA-10 / 10.8 ER screwdriver, I was pleasantly surprised - a thermal sensor was installed in the budget screwdriver to control the temperature of the batteries. It turns out that when the lithium cans overheat, the protection circuit turns off the power until the temperature returns to normal. True, the owner never managed to drive him into such a regime. We carefully tear off this thermal sensor so as not to break it - then we will place it in the same place on new cans.

can be done in different ways, for example with thick wires. I decided to solder a torn-off metal strip taken from old cans. First, I tinned the tapes in the places of future contacts on both sides. Later I tinned the battery contacts with a well-heated soldering iron with a drop of solder. But so that they do not get too hot - let them cool down. Then he pressed the tape to the contacts of the cans and soldered the tape again without severe overheating of the battery cans.

The minus leads are the hardest to solder, but with a good flux, things go very quickly. True, then it is better to wash the flux afterwards to clean the insides of the battery.

Now comes the most important thing. What batteries were used when repairing the battery of the Interskol DA-10 / 10.8 ER screwdriver, you ask? Well, I won't hide. These were the most Chinese of the cheap cans that the owner of the device honestly bought in the store. Batteries of standard size 18650 firm Bailong with a fictitious capacity of 8800 mAh. This is of course a laugh and God forbid that they have a 2200 mAh battery. Judging by how long the screwdriver worked after repair on a full charge. I would reduce this figure by a factor of two. But nevertheless, the screwdriver was urgently repaired and it pleases the owner.

When assembling, do not forget to replace the cardboard gasket between the banks and the board. This is so that the fresh soldering does not short-circuit anything on the board.

This completes the repair and restoration of the lithium-ion battery of the Interskol DA-10 / 10.8 ER screwdriver. Almost all batteries are repaired in much the same way. popular manufacturers of screwdrivers: Bosch, Makita, DeWALT, Metabo, Hitachi, Elitech, Skil and my favorite Bison. This concludes my story about repairing a screwdriver battery. Ask questions in the comments. Better yet, in the appropriate thread on our forum or write to the Solder Master personally by mail.

Best regards, Solder Master. Happy repairs!

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To begin with, there are a lot of videos on the Internet on recovering batteries from screwdrivers, and they are all the same as a mirror, a brief description of the recovery process that these people offer is that we take the battery, push it with a power supply or another battery, then charge and we use it, and it’s strange that someone doesn’t look, but what kind of stress will be on him when he lies down for a week or two. I propose a completely different way to restore

Which does not just charge and use until the battery dies again. And the one that you did and use as a new battery until the need arises. This method was filmed in draft about a month ago, but I never dared to post it on the site, I just didn't want to reshoot it for a more correct explanation. And frankly speaking, I have very little free time lately.

But now the time has passed which has shown that the recovery option that many people on the network offer to use are not destined to live for more than a certain period of time. And my version, even after 2-1 month of inactivity, as if nothing had happened quietly works and charges, I still tried to shoot a new video clip, where I will try to tell everything.

In fact, everything turned out to be very simple, and in this I was helped by the NI-CAD 1.2V battery I disassembled, which showed me that even with all the zeros on the outside of the device, the patient inside is rather alive than dead and feels very good.

An attempt to regenerate the bus relative to the collector plate was done using distilled water, and the process was quite successful, as a result of which I came up with the easiest way to restore them even without disassembling the batteries!

It is enough to drill a hole in the accumulator in the place behind the rollers +, and pour 20-40 ml of distilled water into it. after a couple of cycles, the hole is slightly covered with silicone.

Before repeating, I recommend watching the video, where I tried to describe the process in more detail.

If you are not sure or afraid of ruining a damaged battery, for example, you can do this with one battery.

If your batteries have voltage and are within the operating range, then you may have a problem with the following:

- faulty charger

- the thermal protection of the battery pack has worked

- there is one battery in the battery pack that has dropped to 0 Volts.

Also, if you notice that the drill began to work somehow sluggishly and at the same time it works as long in time after charging, then you most likely have a problem in one or more batteries that are at zero!

A very interesting effect on the battery capacity, it was equal to or slightly more than the indicated battery capacity after restoration by this method.

The cost of a new screwdriver is approximately 70% of the cost of the battery for it. Therefore, it is not surprising when, faced with a battery failure, we ask ourselves the question - what's next? Buy a new battery or screwdriver, or maybe it is possible to repair the screwdriver battery with your own hands and continue working with an already familiar tool?

In this article, which we conditionally divide into three parts, we will consider: the types of batteries that are used in screwdrivers (part 1), their possible causes of failure (part 2) and available repair methods (part 3).

It should be noted that regardless of the brand of the screwdriver and the country of the manufacturer, the batteries have an identical structure. The assembled battery pack looks like this.

If we disassemble it, we will see that it is assembled from small elements that are assembled sequentially. And from the school physics course, we know that elements that have a serial connection harmonize their potentials.

Note. The sum of each battery gives us the total voltage at the contacts of the battery.

Typesetting parts or "cans", as a rule, have a standard size and voltage, they differ only in capacity. Battery capacity is measured in Ah and is indicated on the cell (shown below).

For the arrangement of screwdriver batteries, the following types of elements are used:

nickel - cadmium (Ni - Cd) batteries, with a nominal voltage on the "banks" of 1.2V;
nickel-metal hydride (Ni-MH), voltage across elements - 1.2V;
lithium-ion (Li-Ion), with a voltage of 3.6V.

Let's consider in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of each type.

The most common type due to its low cost;
Low temperatures, such as Li-Ion batteries, are not scary;
It is stored in a discharged state, while retaining its characteristics.

Produced only in third world countries, due to toxicity during production;
Memory effect;
Self-discharge;
Small capacity;
A small number of charge / discharge cycles, which means that they do not "live" for a long time with intensive use.

Environmentally friendly production, there is an opportunity to purchase a high-quality branded battery;
Low memory effect;
Low self-discharge;
High capacity compared to Ni - Cd;
More charge / discharge cycles.

Price;
Loses some of its characteristics during long-term storage in a discharged state;
It does not "live" for a long time at low temperatures.

No memory effect;
Self-discharge is almost absent;
High battery capacity;
The number of charge / discharge cycles is several times greater than that of previous types of batteries;
To set the required voltage, a smaller number of "cans" are required, which significantly reduces the weight and dimensions of the battery.

High price, almost 3 times in comparison with nickel - cadmium;
After three years, there is a significant loss of capacity, because Li decomposes.

Read also: DIY Mitsubishi Sigma repair

We got acquainted with the elements, let's move on to the rest of the elements of the screwdriver's battery pack. Disassembling the unit, for example, for repairing the battery of the Hitachi screwdriver (shown below), is very simple - we unscrew the screws around the perimeter and disconnect the case.

The housing has four contacts:

Two power ones, "+" and "-", for charge / discharge;
Upper control, it is switched on through a thermal sensor (thermistor). A thermistor is necessary to protect batteries, it cuts off or limits the charge current when a certain temperature of the cells is exceeded (usually in the range of 50 - 600C). Heating occurs due to high currents during forced charging, the so-called "fast" charging;
The so-called "service" contact, which is connected through a 9K ohm resistance. It is used for complex charging stations that equalize the charge on all battery cells. In everyday life, such stations are useless, due to their high cost.

That's actually the whole design of the battery. Below is a video on how to disassemble a block.

We figured out the purpose of the battery structure elements, now we will consider how to determine the malfunction, this is part 2 of the screwdriver battery repair. Immediately, we note that all the elements cannot fail at once, and since our circuit is sequential, when one element fails, the whole circuit does not work. Hence, our task is to determine where we have the weakest link in the chain.For this, we will need a multimeter, and for the second method of troubleshooting a 12V lamp, if your battery for a screwdriver is also 12 volt. The procedure is as follows:- We put the battery on charge, wait for the signal of a full charge.- We disassemble the case and measure it on each battery bank. For Ni - Cd, we should have 1.2 - 1.4V, in lithium - 3.6 / 3.8V.- Check all "banks" in which the voltage is less than the nominal one. For example, most Ni - Cd cells have a voltage of 1.3V, and one or more - 1.2 / 1.1V.- We collect the battery and work until a noticeable loss of power.- We remove, disassemble and measure the voltage drop across the "banks" of the battery.On the marked elements, the voltage "sag" will be greater than on others. For example, they are no longer 1.2V, but 1.0V or even lower.Note. The difference between the cells in the battery of 0.5 - 0.7V is considered significant, which means that the cell becomes unusable.Thus, we have found candidates for "resuscitation" or "amputation" and replacement with new elements.If your screwdriver operates on a voltage of 12 or 13V, you can search with a simpler method. We disassemble the fully charged battery and connect a 12 volt lamp to the contacts "+" and "-". The lamp will be a load and will drain the battery. Next, we take measurements on the battery cells, where the voltage drop is strongest, there is also a weak link.There are other ways, instead of a lamp, you can choose a resistance, but for this you already need the basics of electrical engineering, and it is doubtful that a resistor with the necessary resistance would be at hand.Other faults are very rare. For example, loss of contact at the soldering points of the batteries or the power contacts of the unit, failure of the thermistor. This problem is more inherent in fakes. Due to the rarity, we will not focus on the battery elements.We have dealt with the "problem" elements, they need to be repaired. How to repair a screwdriver battery? In general, 2 methods are available for repair, so to speak. This is the restoration and replacement of elements that have become unusable.Let's proceed to part 3 of repairing a screwdriver battery and immediately make a reservation that the concept of "resuscitation" for lithium - ion batteries is not applicable. There is no memory effect in them, most likely, lithium decomposition has occurred, and nothing can be done about it. In such batteries, it is necessary to find out what the cause of the malfunction is: the element itself or the control circuit. There are two options here:

we change the control scheme from another, but similar to ours, battery, if it helps, we find a replacement and change it;

apply 4V to a cell with a current of about 200mA, this requires an adjustable charger. If the voltage on the element rises to 3.6V, the element is working properly, the problem is in other elements, or in the control circuit.

Screwdriver battery refurbishment is available primarily for Ni - Cd batteries, but these are usually the most common in household screwdrivers.So how to reanimate a screwdriver battery? There are two types of "resuscitation" for these types of batteries:

The method of compaction or compression (it will work in cases where the electrolyte is still present, but the volume is lost);

"Firmware" voltage and current greater than the nominal. This method allows you to eliminate the memory effect, and although not completely, but restore the lost capacity.

This method is shown below in the video.

The battery of a screwdriver consists of individual electrochemical cells, which, unlike primary cells, are capable of restoring their chemical composition of the electrolyte during their recharging. How to repair a screwdriver battery if your screwdriver is out of order (broken). First of all, let's consider what the principle of obtaining electricity from such individual battery cells is based on. In the example, a manganese-zinc element is shown (Fig. 1).

A zinc vessel in such an electrochemical battery is a negatively charged electrode. A carbon rod is used as a positive electrode. The carbon rod is in the environment of an active material - manganese dioxide, as an electrolyte - a thickened solution of ammonia is used.

That is, the underlying principle is based on the use of reversible electrochemical systems. Substances of electrochemical batteries, formed during the discharge process, seem to return to their original state as a result of exposure to an electric current (in the process of recharging the battery). The screwdriver is powered by a battery - a group of electrically interconnected elements located in a common housing, as can be seen in the photograph (photo 1).

The screwdriver battery consists of individual elements. The electrical circuit of such elements can have a scheme of both parallel and serial connection (Fig. 2).

You can check the health of the cells after a certain time of their charging, that is, the presence of voltage on each cell, or the battery as a whole, is checked.If, when measuring the voltage of an element, the value on the display of the "multimeter" device will be a lower indicator (for example, not 1.2V, but 0.8V), then this element has lost its electrochemical properties during operation. Such elements must be replaced. Electrochemical cells for the battery (photo 2)

Image - DIY interskol screwdriver battery repair

must be selected in accordance with their technical characteristics, that is, in terms of voltage and current. The indicator on the case of the removed battery cell, for example, is:

voltage: 1.2V;
current strength: 1200mA - 2900mA,

- therefore, it is necessary to select elements with just such indicators. Connecting elements to each other

performed with jumpers (photo 3). With this replacement, you will need a soldering iron, soldering tin and soldering acid.

This topic provides an example from my own practice.

So, in front of us in the photograph is a Bort screwdriver.

Initially, to find a malfunction of a screwdriver, you can check the total resistance of its electrical circuit.

Before checking, the start button must be turned on, that is, the button must be fixed, as shown in the photo (photo 4).

Then, using the Multimeter device, measure the resistance of the electric circuit of the screwdriver (photo 5).

To do this, the Multimeter device is installed in the resistance measurement range, then with the device probes we touch the removed contacts (on the handle) of the screwdriver, as shown in the photograph (photo 5), when measuring, the device display indicates a resistance that is not comparable for the operation of this power tool. The resistance value here is an indicator - a short circuit. According to the display of the device, it can be seen that this screwdriver is faulty. But we need to establish a specific cause - what is the malfunction?

To find the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to disassemble the screwdriver and check the wiring diagram (photo 6).

In this electrical circuit, as we can see, the transistor consists.

The transistor is installed on a metal plate (photo 7), which serves to remove heat when heated. The transistor is checked for resistance between the junctions (emitter - collector - base). To check the transistor and not focus on the type of transistor (n-p-n, p-n-p), any two legs of the transistor are checked in both directions.

In this way, it was established that there is no conduction between the collector and the base of the transistor. But as a result of what could the transistor fail? We carry out diagnostics for individual electrical connections, namely, for the electric motor of the screwdriver (photo 8).

The photograph indicates an unacceptable resistance value for the electric motor (photo 8). What exactly is the reason for the malfunction of the electric motor? We look further.

The electric motor of the screwdriver is a DC collector motor. Graphite brushes are located on the end part of the electric motor cover (photo 9). The graphite brushes in this example are in good condition. Here you also need to check the conductivity of the contact connections (wire - brush).

The rotor of the electric motor consists of windings (photo 10), connected in series with each other. The stator of the electric motor is a permanent magnet with two poles, that is, the stator of the electric motor has no windings.

You can be convinced of this - metal objects are attracted by the electric motor housing (photo 11).

From this, we can conclude that in a malfunction of the electric motor, an insulation breakdown is observed between the wires of the rotor windings.

Well, here is the reason for the breakdown of the screwdriver, which consists in a malfunction:

transistor;
motor rotor windings.

All that remains is to replace the corresponding parts.

There comes a time when the reliable home assistant - the screwdriver - stops working.The batteries are out of order, and regular recharging no longer helps. Do not rush to buy new batteries, there may be another way out of the situation.

The cost of batteries is about 70% of the price of a new tool, so it is logical to try to repair a screwdriver battery. Before proceeding with the operation, you should familiarize yourself with the features of voltage sources, find out what type of batteries is used on your instrument. Their structure is absolutely the same and does not depend in any way on the country of production and brand. Inside the plastic box there are standard-sized daisy-chained elements. Each element has an indication of the type and capacity in ampere-hours (A / h).

Screwdriver battery

Batteries are completed with the following types of elements:

lithium-ion (Li-Ion) - with a cell voltage of 3.6 V;
nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) - 1.25 V on each cell;
nickel metal hydride (Ni-Mh) - 1.2 V.

Evaluation of lithium-ion power supplies in terms of quality and service life sets them apart from the competition. They practically do not lend themselves to self-discharge, high capacity, they can be charged repeatedly, several times more than other types of batteries. The cell voltage is three times higher than that of other types, which makes it possible to equip batteries with fewer cans, reducing weight and dimensions. They have no memory effect, which makes them an ideal device of this kind.

But the ideal does not exist in nature, and lithium-ion power supplies also have some disadvantages. They cannot be used at subzero temperatures, as manufacturers honestly declare. But practical use has revealed another drawback: when the service life of such a battery ends (three years), lithium decomposes, no way to do a reverse reaction brings results. The price of such batteries is three times higher than that of other power sources for a screwdriver.

Nickel-cadmium batteries are the most common because of their low cost. They are not afraid of negative temperatures, like lithium-ion voltage sources. If a screwdriver is rarely used, such elements are ideal, because they can be stored uncharged for a long time, while maintaining their characteristics. Such batteries have a lot of disadvantages: they are small in capacity, toxic, so their production is concentrated in underdeveloped countries. The tendency to self-discharge, short lifespan during intensive use are also among the disadvantages of these batteries.

Nickel-cadmium batteries dry up at the end of the shelf life. Those who know about this feature overfill them, but this operation is not easy, so few decide on such an action, preferring to replace individual battery banks. If the reason for the failure is the memory effect, which is considered a big disadvantage of nickel-cadmium batteries, it is possible to restore their performance by flashing.

Nickel-metal hydride batteries are environmentally friendly, high quality, manufactured by the world's leading companies. Compared to Ni-Cd, they have clear advantages:

slow self-discharge;

memory effect is small;

resistant to multiple discharge-charge cycles;

relatively large capacity.

But during long-term storage without work, some of the characteristics are lost, they do not like low temperatures, moreover, they cost a lot. And the main drawback is that they cannot be repaired.If you have battery elements installed on your screwdriver that, in principle, can be repaired (except for nickel-metal hydride), we proceed to disassemble the case. It has two parts connected by screws or glue. In the first case, no difficulties are foreseen - we unscrew the screws and separate the parts. If the connection is adhesive, insert a knife between the parts at the junction, then screw a self-tapping screw into this place.Carefully, so as not to damage the elements, we pass with a knife along the joint, separating the parts of the case.Checking the cells is carried out on a fully charged battery.Having disassembled the case, we will see banks connected in series, which means that a malfunction of even one bank can lead to poor battery performance. The main task during the repair is to find the weak point in the chain. We remove the cells from the body and lay them out on the table so that there is convenient access to all contacts. We measure the voltage of each element with a multimeter, write down the indicators on paper or directly on the case. The voltage indicator for a nickel-cadmium battery should be 1.2-1.4 V, for a lithium-ion battery - 3.6-3.8 V.

Types of malfunctions and how to fix themHaving measured the voltage value, we collect the cans in the case, turn on the screwdriver and work until it loses power. We again disassemble and re-remove the voltage indicators, again fix them. Cells with the lowest voltage will again show a significant drop when fully charged. The difference in readings of 0.5–0.7 V is considered significant. Such elements will soon become completely unusable, they are candidates for resuscitation or complete amputation.If you have a 12-volt tool, a simpler method can be used to troubleshoot the problem by eliminating double disassembly and assembly. First, we also measure the voltage value of each fully charged element, fix the indicators. We connect a load to the banks laid out on the table - a 12 V light bulb, which will discharge the battery. Next, we are again interested in voltage. Where the strongest fall is noted, the weak area.You will need either cans from an old battery, in which there are serviceable elements, or you will have to buy new ones, they are inexpensive. When buying, we pay attention to the size and capacity - they must match the existing elements. We throw out the unusable banks, and we solder new ones in their place. It is advisable to connect using native plates or copper plates of suitable size. Compliance with the cross section is important - when charging, a large current flows through the contacts. If the area is insufficient, they heat up, protection is triggered.Replacing Battery NutrientsWe pay special attention to the sequence of the connection - the minus of one can is connected with the plus of the other.On the assembled battery, we equalize the potentials, since they are different. We put it on charge for the whole night, let the battery rest for a day, then measure the voltage. Ideally, all elements should have the same indicator. We proceed to discharge the battery until it is completely depleted. We repeat the procedure twice more. It should be said that such training is necessary not only for repairs, it should be done every three months to prolong the life of the battery.Method acceptable for nickel-cadmium batteries when the cells are not dry. You can verify this using the method below, if it does not help, then the electrolyte has boiled away. The essence of the method is charging using high current and voltage. You will need a charger that can be regulated; a charger for car batteries is suitable. We will charge each element separately, for which we remove the battery from the case and disconnect the banks from one another.Battery battery firmwareWe set the charging to a voltage three times higher than the nominal - 3.6 V. Connect to the charger and turn on for 3-5 seconds. If the voltage test with a multimeter showed 1.4 V or slightly lower, everything is in order. We collect the battery and use it. The method eliminates the memory effect of accumulators. It is not suitable for completely killed cans.As already noted, the main reason for the failure of nickel-cadmium batteries is drying out of the cans.The procedure for refilling them is not very pleasant, but not so complicated as not to be performed. We do everything as always - disassemble the case, take out the elements. We remove the paper with which the cans are wrapped. From some it can be easily removed, whole, on some it has to be cut. We examine the body of the cells - some without any traces of corrosion, others can be seriously damaged, but the main thing is that the shell is intact.With a thin drill at the top of the element, where there is a depression in a circle, we make a hole. You will need distilled water. We put it into a syringe, put the needle into the hole and pump water very slowly. It is not known how much of it will enter; it is impossible to visually determine it. If, from the very beginning of water injection, liquid flows from the can, throw it out, it cannot be resuscitated, it must be replaced with a new element. There is some kind of reaction, which indicates the unsuitability of this element for repair. But this happens very rarely. Further procedures are usual - assembly, several charge-discharge cycles.