In detail: do-it-yourself screwdriver battery repair replacement from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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To begin with, there are a lot of videos on the Internet on recovering batteries from screwdrivers, and they are all the same as a mirror, a brief description of the recovery process that these people offer is that we take the battery, push it with a power supply or another battery, then charge and we use it, and it’s strange that someone doesn’t look, but what kind of stress will be on him when he lies down for a week or two. I propose a completely different way to restore
Which does not just charge and use until the battery dies again. And the one that you did and use as a new battery until the need arises. This method was filmed in draft about a month ago, but I never dared to post it on the site, I just didn't want to reshoot it for a more correct explanation. And frankly speaking, I have very little free time lately.
But now the time has passed which has shown that the recovery option that many people on the network offer to use are not destined to live for more than a certain period of time. And my version, even after 2-1 month of inactivity, as if nothing had happened quietly works and charges, I still tried to shoot a new video clip, where I will try to tell everything.
In fact, everything turned out to be very simple, and in this I was helped by the NI-CAD 1.2V battery I disassembled, which showed me that even with all the zeros on the outside of the device, the patient inside is rather alive than dead and feels very good.
Video (click to play).
An attempt to regenerate the bus relative to the collector plate was done using distilled water, and the process was quite successful, as a result of which I came up with the easiest way to restore them even without disassembling the batteries!
It is enough to drill a hole in the accumulator in the place behind the rollers +, and pour 20-40 ml of distilled water into it. after a couple of cycles, the hole is slightly covered with silicone.
Before repeating, I recommend watching the video, where I tried to describe the process in more detail.
If you are not sure or afraid of ruining a damaged battery, for example, you can do this with one battery.
If your batteries have voltage and are within the operating range, then you may have a problem with the following:
- faulty charger
- the thermal protection of the battery pack has worked
- there is one battery in the battery pack that has dropped to 0 Volts.
Also, if you notice that the drill began to work somehow sluggishly and at the same time it works as long in time after charging, then you most likely have a problem in one or more batteries that are at zero!
A very interesting effect on the battery capacity, it was equal to or slightly more than the indicated battery capacity after restoration by this method.
VIDEO
There comes a time when the reliable home assistant - the screwdriver - stops working. The batteries are out of order, and regular recharging no longer helps. Do not rush to buy new batteries, there may be another way out of the situation.
The cost of batteries is about 70% of the price of a new tool, so it is logical to try to repair a screwdriver battery.Before proceeding with the operation, you should familiarize yourself with the features of voltage sources, find out what type of batteries is used on your instrument. Their structure is absolutely the same and does not depend in any way on the country of production and brand. Inside the plastic box there are standard-sized daisy-chained elements. Each element has an indication of the type and capacity in ampere-hours (A / h).
Screwdriver battery
Batteries are completed with the following types of elements:
lithium-ion (Li-Ion) - with a cell voltage of 3.6 V;
nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) - 1.25 V on each cell;
nickel metal hydride (Ni-Mh) - 1.2 V.
Evaluation of lithium-ion power supplies in terms of quality and service life sets them apart from the competition. They practically do not lend themselves to self-discharge, high capacity, they can be charged repeatedly, several times more than other types of batteries. The cell voltage is three times higher than that of other types, which makes it possible to equip batteries with fewer cans, reducing weight and dimensions. They have no memory effect, which makes them an ideal device of this kind.
But the ideal does not exist in nature, and lithium-ion power supplies also have some disadvantages. They cannot be used at subzero temperatures, as manufacturers honestly declare. But practical use has revealed another drawback: when the service life of such a battery ends (three years), lithium decomposes, no way to do a reverse reaction brings results. The price of such batteries is three times higher than that of other power sources for a screwdriver.
Nickel-cadmium batteries are the most common because of their low cost. They are not afraid of negative temperatures, like lithium-ion voltage sources. If a screwdriver is rarely used, such elements are ideal, because they can be stored uncharged for a long time, while maintaining their characteristics. Such batteries have a lot of disadvantages: they are small in capacity, toxic, so their production is concentrated in underdeveloped countries. The tendency to self-discharge, short lifespan during intensive use are also among the disadvantages of these batteries.
Nickel-cadmium batteries dry up at the end of the shelf life. Those who know about this feature overfill them, but this operation is not easy, so few decide on such an action, preferring to replace individual battery banks. If the reason for the failure is the memory effect, which is considered a big disadvantage of nickel-cadmium batteries, it is possible to restore their performance by flashing.
VIDEO
Nickel-metal hydride batteries are environmentally friendly, high quality, manufactured by the world's leading companies. Compared to Ni-Cd, they have clear advantages:
slow self-discharge;
memory effect is small;
resistant to multiple discharge-charge cycles;
relatively large capacity.
But during long-term storage without work, some of the characteristics are lost, they do not like low temperatures, moreover, they cost a lot. And the main drawback is that they cannot be repaired.
If you have battery elements installed on your screwdriver that, in principle, can be repaired (except for nickel-metal hydride), we proceed to disassemble the case. It has two parts connected by screws or glue. In the first case, no difficulties are foreseen - we unscrew the screws and separate the parts. If the connection is adhesive, insert a knife between the parts at the junction, then screw a self-tapping screw into this place. Carefully, so as not to damage the elements, we pass with a knife along the joint, separating the parts of the case.
Checking the cells is carried out on a fully charged battery.
Having disassembled the case, we will see banks connected in series, which means that a malfunction of even one bank can lead to poor battery performance.The main task during the repair is to find the weak point in the chain. We remove the cells from the body and lay them out on the table so that there is convenient access to all contacts. We measure the voltage of each element with a multimeter, write down the indicators on paper or directly on the case. The voltage indicator for a nickel-cadmium battery should be 1.2-1.4 V, for a lithium-ion battery - 3.6-3.8 V.
Types of malfunctions and how to fix them
Having measured the voltage value, we collect the cans in the case, turn on the screwdriver and work until it loses power. We again disassemble and re-remove the voltage indicators, again fix them. Cells with the lowest voltage will again show a significant drop when fully charged. The difference in readings of 0.5–0.7 V is considered significant. Such elements will soon become completely unusable, they are candidates for resuscitation or complete amputation.
If you have a 12-volt tool, a simpler method can be used to troubleshoot the problem by eliminating double disassembly and assembly. First, we also measure the voltage value of each fully charged element, fix the indicators. We connect a load to the banks laid out on the table - a 12 V light bulb, which will discharge the battery. Next, we are again interested in voltage. Where the strongest fall is noted, the weak area.
You will need either cans from an old battery, in which there are serviceable elements, or you will have to buy new ones, they are inexpensive. When buying, we pay attention to the size and capacity - they must match the existing elements. We throw out the unusable banks, and we solder new ones in their place. It is advisable to connect using native plates or copper plates of suitable size. Compliance with the cross section is important - when charging, a large current flows through the contacts. If the area is insufficient, they heat up, protection is triggered.
Replacing Battery Nutrients
We pay special attention to the sequence of the connection - the minus of one can is connected with the plus of the other.
On the assembled battery, we equalize the potentials, since they are different. We put it on charge for the whole night, let the battery rest for a day, then measure the voltage. Ideally, all elements should have the same indicator. We proceed to discharge the battery until it is completely depleted. We repeat the procedure twice more. It should be said that such training is necessary not only for repairs, it should be done every three months to prolong the life of the battery.
Method acceptable for nickel-cadmium batteries when the cells are not dry. You can verify this using the method below, if it does not help, then the electrolyte has boiled away. The essence of the method is charging using high current and voltage. You will need a charger that can be regulated; a charger for car batteries is suitable. We will charge each element separately, for which we remove the battery from the case and disconnect the banks from one another.
Battery battery firmware
We set the charging to a voltage three times higher than the nominal - 3.6 V. Connect to the charger and turn on for 3-5 seconds. If the voltage test with a multimeter showed 1.4 V or slightly lower, everything is in order. We collect the battery and use it. The method eliminates the memory effect of accumulators. It is not suitable for completely killed cans.
As already noted, the main reason for the failure of nickel-cadmium batteries is drying out of the cans. The procedure for refilling them is not very pleasant, but not so complicated as not to be performed. We do everything as always - disassemble the case, take out the elements. We remove the paper with which the cans are wrapped. From some it can be easily removed, whole, on some it has to be cut. We examine the body of the cells - some without any traces of corrosion, others can be seriously damaged, but the main thing is that the shell is intact.
With a thin drill at the top of the element, where there is a depression in a circle, we make a hole. You will need distilled water. We put it into a syringe, put the needle into the hole and pump water very slowly. It is not known how much of it will enter; it is impossible to visually determine it. If from the very beginning of the introduction of water from the jar, liquid flows, discard it, it cannot be resuscitated, it is necessary to replace it with a new element. There is some kind of reaction, which indicates the unsuitability of this element for repair. But this happens very rarely. Further procedures are usual - assembly, several charge-discharge cycles.
VIDEO
Lithium-ion batteries can also be refurbished, but this operation is harmful to health due to the toxicity of the contents. The reason for their failure is most often a violation of the contact between the internal filling and the exit to the case. To check the suitability for repair, insert an awl into the hole at the top of the element so that it touches the inside. We connect the multimeter and look at the readings. If there is current, the reason is the break in the contact, you can continue the repair.
Cut off part of the metal on the cover protruding from the top of the element with pliers. We bend it up, and opposite the metal of the case we press it so that it touches the inside of the element. Now comes the turn of the most critical part of the operation - soldering. We use solder, which has a flux inside, it is faster and more convenient to solder with it, especially in such a situation. We solder quickly so as not to overheat the element. If you do not know how to do this, do not take it - in this situation you will not learn, but ruin everything. Then we seal the gap in the case with sealant - and for charging.
Do-it-yourself repairs are real if you use one of the above methods!
The cost of a new screwdriver is approximately 70% of the cost of the battery for it. Therefore, it is not surprising when, faced with a battery failure, we ask ourselves the question - what's next? Buy a new battery or screwdriver, or maybe it is possible to repair the screwdriver battery with your own hands and continue working with an already familiar tool?
In this article, which we conditionally divide into three parts, we will consider: the types of batteries that are used in screwdrivers (part 1), their possible causes of failure (part 2) and available repair methods (part 3).
It should be noted that regardless of the brand of the screwdriver and the country of the manufacturer, the batteries have an identical structure. The assembled battery pack looks like this.
If we disassemble it, we will see that it is assembled from small elements that are assembled sequentially. And from the school physics course, we know that elements that have a serial connection harmonize their potentials.
Note. The sum of each battery gives us the total voltage at the contacts of the battery.
Typesetting parts or "cans", as a rule, have a standard size and voltage, they differ only in capacity. Battery capacity is measured in Ah and is indicated on the cell (shown below).
For the arrangement of screwdriver batteries, the following types of elements are used:
nickel - cadmium (Ni - Cd) batteries, with a nominal voltage on the "banks" of 1.2V;
nickel-metal hydride (Ni-MH), voltage across elements - 1.2V;
lithium-ion (Li-Ion), with a voltage of 3.6V.
Let's consider in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
The most common type due to its low cost;
Low temperatures, such as Li-Ion batteries, are not scary;
It is stored in a discharged state, while retaining its characteristics.
Produced only in third world countries, due to toxicity during production;
Memory effect;
Self-discharge;
Small capacity;
A small number of charge / discharge cycles, which means that they do not "live" for a long time with intensive use.
Environmentally friendly production, there is an opportunity to purchase a high-quality branded battery;
Low memory effect;
Low self-discharge;
High capacity compared to Ni - Cd;
More charge / discharge cycles.
Price;
Loses some of its characteristics during long-term storage in a discharged state;
It does not "live" for a long time at low temperatures.
No memory effect;
Self-discharge is almost absent;
High battery capacity;
The number of charge / discharge cycles is several times greater than that of previous types of batteries;
To set the required voltage, a smaller number of "cans" are required, which significantly reduces the weight and dimensions of the battery.
High price, almost 3 times in comparison with nickel - cadmium;
After three years, there is a significant loss of capacity, because Li decomposes.
We got acquainted with the elements, let's move on to the rest of the elements of the screwdriver's battery pack. Disassembling the unit, for example, for repairing the battery of a Hitachi screwdriver (pictured below), is very simple - we unscrew the screws around the perimeter and disconnect the case.
The housing has four contacts:
Two power ones, "+" and "-", for charge / discharge;
Upper control, it is switched on through a thermal sensor (thermistor). A thermistor is necessary to protect batteries, it cuts off or limits the charge current when a certain temperature of the cells is exceeded (usually in the range of 50 - 600C). Heating occurs due to high currents during forced charging, the so-called "fast" charging;
The so-called "service" contact, which is connected through a 9K ohm resistance. It is used for complex charging stations that equalize the charge on all battery cells. In everyday life, such stations are useless, due to their high cost.
That's actually the whole design of the battery. Below is a video on how to disassemble a block.
VIDEO
We figured out the purpose of the battery structure elements, now we will consider how to determine the malfunction, this is part 2 of the screwdriver battery repair. Immediately, we note that all the elements cannot fail at once, and since our circuit is sequential, when one element fails, the whole circuit does not work. Hence, our task is to determine where we have the weakest link in the chain.
For this, we will need a multimeter, and for the second method of troubleshooting a 12V lamp, if your battery for a screwdriver is also 12 volt. The procedure is as follows:
- We put the battery on charge, wait for the signal of a full charge.
- We disassemble the case and measure it on each battery bank. For Ni - Cd, we should have 1.2 - 1.4V, in lithium - 3.6 / 3.8V.
- Check all "banks" in which the voltage is less than the nominal one. For example, most Ni - Cd cells have a voltage of 1.3V, and one or more - 1.2 / 1.1V.
- We collect the battery and work until a noticeable loss of power.
- We remove, disassemble and measure the voltage drop across the "banks" of the battery. On the marked elements, the voltage "sag" will be greater than on others. For example, they are no longer 1.2V, but 1.0V or even lower.
Note. The difference between the cells in the battery of 0.5 - 0.7V is considered significant, which means that the cell becomes unusable.
Thus, we have found candidates for "resuscitation" or "amputation" and replacement with new elements.
If your screwdriver operates on a voltage of 12 or 13V, you can search with a simpler method. We disassemble the fully charged battery and connect a 12 volt lamp to the contacts "+" and "-". The lamp will be a load and will drain the battery. Next, we take measurements on the battery cells, where the voltage drop is strongest, there is also a weak link.
There are other ways, instead of a lamp, you can choose a resistance, but for this you already need the basics of electrical engineering, and it is doubtful that a resistor with the necessary resistance would be at hand.
Other faults are very rare. For example, loss of contact at the soldering points of the batteries or the power contacts of the unit, failure of the thermistor. This problem is more inherent in fakes.Due to the rarity, we will not focus on the battery elements.
With the "problem" elements sorted out, it is necessary to repair. How to repair a screwdriver battery? In general, 2 methods are available for repair, so to speak. This is the restoration and replacement of elements that have become unusable.
Let's proceed to part 3 of repairing a screwdriver battery and immediately make a reservation that the concept of "resuscitation" for lithium - ion batteries is not applicable. There is no memory effect in them, most likely, lithium decomposition has occurred, and nothing can be done about it. In such batteries, it is necessary to find out what the cause of the malfunction is: the element itself or the control circuit. There are two options here:
we change the control scheme from another, but similar to ours, battery, if it helps, we find a replacement and change it;
apply 4V to a cell with a current of about 200mA, this requires an adjustable charger. If the voltage on the element rises to 3.6V, the element is working properly, the problem is in other elements, or in the control circuit.
Screwdriver battery refurbishment is available primarily for Ni - Cd batteries, but these are usually the most common in household screwdrivers.
So how to reanimate a screwdriver battery? There are two types of "resuscitation" for these types of batteries:
The method of compaction or compression (it will work in cases where the electrolyte is still present, but the volume is lost);
"Firmware" voltage and current greater than the nominal. This method allows you to eliminate the memory effect, and although not completely, but restore the lost capacity.
This method is shown below in the video.
VIDEO
Note. As a rule, in a nickel - cadmium battery, the main reason for the loss of capacity is the boiling off of the electrolyte, and if it is critically small, no "firmware" will help.
This method, if its result is positive, will not solve the problem of failure of elements. Rather, it will only postpone the replacement of those that have become unusable and in the future you will still need to repair the battery of the Makita screwdriver or any other.
A more effective way to repair batteries for a screwdriver is to replace elements that we have identified as faulty.
To carry out repairs, we need either a "donor" battery, in which some of the elements are in good order, or new "banks". It will not be difficult to purchase them, even on the Internet you can easily find a dozen stores that are ready to send these items by mail. The price does not bite too much, for example, a nickel-cadmium cell with a capacity of 2000 mAh costs around 100 rubles.
Note. When purchasing a new element, make sure that its capacity and dimensions coincide with the native elements.
We also need a soldering iron, a low-corrosion flux (preferably an alcohol flux for rosin) and tin. We are not talking about spot welding, since there is hardly a need to purchase or assemble it for a one-time battery repair ...
There is nothing complicated in the replacement itself, especially if you have at least some experience in soldering. In the photographs, everything is shown in sufficient detail, we cut off the faulty element, instead of it we solder a new one.
Several nuances should be noted:
when soldering with a soldering iron, try to solder quickly, so that the battery does not heat up, because risk spoiling it;
if possible, implement the connection using native plates, or use the same copper plates, this is important because the charging currents are large and if the cross-section of the connecting wires is incorrect, they will heat up, respectively, the thermistor protection will be triggered;
in any case, do not confuse the plus of the battery with the minus - the connection is sequential, which means that the minus of the previous can goes to the plus of the new can, and the minus of the new one goes to the plus of the next one.
After the new elements have been soldered, it is necessary to equalize the potentials on the "banks", since they are different.We carry out a charge / discharge cycle: we set it to charge overnight, give it a day to cool down and measure the voltage on the elements. If we did everything correctly, the picture will be something like this: on all elements the same indicator of the multimeter, within 1.3V.
Next, we proceed to discharge the battery, insert the battery into the screwdriver and load it "in full". The main thing is to spare the screwdriver itself, otherwise you will have to repair it too. We bring it to full discharge. We repeat this procedure two more times, i.e. charge and discharge completely.
It should be noted that the procedure for erasing the "memory effect" should be carried out every three months. It is carried out by analogy with the above-described training.
Such a not very tricky procedure will prolong the work of your screwdriver, at least until you have to replace it with a new one.
VIDEO
Those of us who use a tool such as a cordless screwdriver should be aware that at some point the battery that powers it may deteriorate. Moreover, in this case, we are not talking about discharge, but about the loss of its quality characteristics, as a result of which one will have to think about replacing, and this will require large expenses from the owner.
Finding themselves in a similar situation, the consumer can consider the option of purchasing a new screwdriver, which will be an easier solution to the problem than equipping an old instrument with new batteries ... However, in such a difficult situation, a solution can be found. In the event that a certain type of power supply is used in the screwdriver, then you can try to restore the battery.
In terms of performance, repairing batteries for a screwdriver looks like a very simple task, so even if nothing comes of it, it will not lead to any serious consequences or costs for you. Next, the most important points regarding DIY screwdriver battery repair will be detailed.
As a power source in screwdriver models produced today one of the following types of batteries can be used:
nickel cadmium batteries;
Nickel metal hydride batteries;
lithium-ion batteries.
Moreover, each of these power sources has its own characteristics.
If you evaluate these batteries according to characteristics such as workmanship and service life, then lithium-ion batteries are out of competition. Due to their lack of memory effect, they can be considered almost ideal such a power source, however, it is necessary to mention that they have such a disadvantage as the impossibility of their operation at negative temperatures.
This is the statement made by the manufacturers of such batteries, although in reality they have other negative consequences. For example, when such a battery loses its service life, then decomposition of lithium occurs in them, and this reaction does not lend itself to any influence.
These batteries differ from the previous ones in that the moment they reach the end of their useful life, they dry out. Therefore, those owners who know how to deal with such batteries in a similar state , they are just overfilled. However, this is not so easy to do, and therefore there are very few people who decide to take such a step.
After all, there is a less costly solution to the problem, which consists in placing new cans for a screwdriver battery in the battery. In some situations, when the cause of malfunctions is the memory effect, which is usually considered a significant disadvantage of nickel-cadmium electrical capacities, it is possible to solve the problem of restoring their performance by flashing.
As for nickel-metal hydride batteries, nothing can be done with them when they use up their operating life.In such situations, the home craftsman has only one way out - to look for a replacement for this battery.
If, in the event of a screwdriver battery failure, consider the option of replacing the power source, then such a solution will be advisable regardless of the type of battery with which the screwdriver is equipped. At the moment, you can find many stores on the network offering each user to buy any type of battery at affordable prices including lithium-ion, nickel-cadmium power supplies. True, in this case, the buyer will have to be prepared for the fact that he will have to install this power source himself.
First, you have to disassemble the battery into its constituent elements, put a working filling instead of a failed working, after which the assembly process is carried out in the reverse order ... It is this procedure that will be given further attention, but first it will be useful to consider the operation to restore nickel-cadmium batteries.
VIDEO
It makes sense to use this method only when the most unpleasant thing has not happened to the power source - it has dried out. If all the signs of this phenomenon are present, then it remains only to throw it away. Understand, what is the state of the electrolyte of such batteries , you can conduct such an experiment with them: if after charging they also do not show signs of life, then we can conclude that the elements are dry.
If you managed to restore the battery's performance, then it will be a great success for you. If we talk in more detail about the technology for solving this issue, then the restoration of a screwdriver battery consists in acting on its elements with the help of a current and voltage of a significant nominal value.
Sometimes, after repeated charging with certain elements, the desired result cannot be achieved. In this case, all that remains is to throw them away. We will have to replace the worn-out elements with working batteries. I would like to repeat once again that the described method is effective in combating the memory effect that nickel-cadmium batteries have. If the battery has exhausted its resource, then this method will be ineffective.
The most common difficulties that arise during the repair of a screwdriver battery are as follows: it is important to open the batteries so as not to damage them.
As a rule, manufacturers provide for this possibility, and therefore trying to seal their batteries tightly in order to avoid situations in which craftsmen try to repair the screwdriver battery on their own. Thus, they force the owners to abandon such an idea and force them to visit the store to buy a new battery.
In principle, this is not surprising, since companies pursue their own goals. However, in this case, a solution can also be found. But right away you need to be prepared for the fact that the repair will take some time. However, if you are ready to spend your personal hours on such work, it means that by following all the recommendations, you will achieve your goal and be satisfied with the operations performed.
First, we need to open the battery and remove the batteries from it. It should be noted that before carrying out such a dismantling, you will need to charge the battery for two to three hours.
After that, you need to measure the voltage on each element separately, record the results obtained, and finally connect the load to them. This should cause the batteries to drain.
Next, you need to repeat charging again. , according to the results of which it is necessary to choose the batteries that have the least energy left. These devices have the lowest potential for recovery and should therefore be discarded.
Then we get acquainted with the labeling of the batteries. , and, focusing on these values, we will need to buy similar products. In principle, you do not need to waste time looking for the batteries most susceptible to wear and tear. While this is expensive, you end up with a virtually new battery.
Next, we need to put each element in sequence, after which we place them in the case and seal the battery, as it was before.
In the process of doing this work, you should be aware of certain nuances - without them it will be difficult for you to correctly assemble the elements into a single battery. During factory assembly, the plates used to connect the elements are not soldered. For these purposes, spot welding is used. As you do not have such an opportunity, you will have to spend time soldering using an ordinary soldering iron.
In the process of performing this operation, keep in mind that the state of the items severe overheating can be adversely affected , which should not be allowed. It is also important that each element has the same capacity, as well as the output voltage.
It is also necessary to dwell in more detail on the overclocking of the new storage battery. It is necessary to resort to this procedure when you have already been able to reflash old elements. A similar procedure is recommended for nickel-cadmium batteries, which should be performed every 6 months. The main thing that this procedure allows to achieve is to ensure maximum battery charging and subsequent complete discharge. This work must be done in two stages, or even better in three.
Most nickel-cadmium batteries are adversely affected by repeated charging without discharging first. If we disregard such a recommendation, then this may cause memory effect ... Its essence can be described as follows: the place from which they began to charge them, they begin to be considered as a starting point.
If in the process of using a screwdriver you find that its battery has exhausted its entire working life, then you should not prepare to buy a new device. Once in a similar situation, you can try to restore it to work. There are many ways that allow you to assess the chances of a successful repair, after which you can already start implementing the idea. In some situations, this approach can save a lot of money and continue to perform the necessary operations on the same day.
In the price of a new self-contained screwdriver, a significant part is the cost of the power supply. This is due to the peculiarities of the production of feeding elements. This situation forces users to repair the screwdriver battery on their own. It is important to understand what difficulties you will have to face in this case. However, as a result, you will be able to win.
Before starting to repair a battery, it is worth determining what type of power is installed in the power tool. Modern manufacturers are constantly improving their technologies, therefore, equipment released in different years may have a variety of types of batteries.
Power Tool Batteries
The most popular options are:
nickel metal hydride type;
nickel-cadmium type;
lithium-ion type.
Each of the blocks of elements has its own characteristics and is designed for a specific operating mode.
They have an operational drawback in which after the expiration date they dry out. The owners of NI-CD blocks will be able to revive their equipment under simple conditions - it is enough to reload them. However, not all owners decide to fix the screwdriver battery with their own hands using such a cardinal technique.
Battery cells 34x22 mm NI-CD 1.2v 2000mAh, banks for battery repair
The most common way to repair a battery with a similar structure is considered to be the option in which they try to replace outdated banks with new ones. This type of battery is also characterized by a memory effect, which is considered one of the main disadvantages of this type. Often you have to reflash the battery itself in order to reanimate the performance.
Repair of lithium screwdriver batteries is often required after operation at low temperatures, which is undesirable in the opinion of manufacturers. Such batteries in modern conditions are considered the most acceptable for construction and other tools, since they do not have a negative memory effect.
Li-Ion power supplies for the latest generations of electrical appliances are the most common use case. Failure occurs only when lithium decomposes inside or after mechanical damage.
This option can be attributed to the problematic elements for recovery in the battery. Most often, you have to remove the old and solder the new batteries into the existing housing with contacts.
Many online stores offer not only blocks of elements, but also individual components. By stacking them and soldering them together, you can assemble a new battery.
VIDEO: How to sort out a screwdriver battery
VIDEO
Such a do-it-yourself screwdriver battery restoration is appropriate in a situation where drying out was not allowed. If the undesirable process has begun, then such food must be disposed of. To determine the current state, we carry out testing: we simply put it on charge for 1-2 hours. If the result turns out to be zero, then we send them all to the trash can.
The batteries for the screwdriver will have to be influenced with the help of high amperage and high voltage. The step-by-step algorithm consists of the following points:
We completely disassemble the battery of the screwdriver along the line of the joint of the case. Next, we take out the existing elements.
Preparing the charger. It is advisable to choose equipment for this experiment with the ability to adjust the output parameters (current and voltage). Often they use car charging and starting equipment.
Initial setup is in progress. It is important to take into account that the battery in the construction power tool uses cells designed for a voltage of 1.2 V and a small current. The voltage on the supply device is set so that it exceeds the rating of consumers three times.
We start the fast charging process, which should last no more than 2-3 seconds.
At the next stage, we test the level of changes with a multimeter at the voltmeter stage. For each individual cell, 1.4 V or so is expected. When this result is achieved, the battery of the screwdriver will be charged.
A 12 V and 40 W light bulb can act as a load.
At the initial stages of repair for inexperienced craftsmen, the problem is how to disassemble the screwdriver battery. Manufacturers seal the block tightly. This is more a marketing ploy to show that the structure is not separable and the need to purchase a new unit. It is important to determine with a flat screwdriver where the seam is located. Before disassembling, it is recommended to set a weak battery to charge for 2-3 hours. Next, we act according to the plan:
We carefully open the case to extract the component parts
The case of any battery is collapsible. Consists of two parts, which are connected with fine screws or glue
We carry out testing for each element, pre-marking them with markers in order, on the degree of charge, and the result is written down
The banks are connected in series, that is, one faulty one is enough so that the entire circuit does not work. Your task is to find this weak link.
We connect the load on the entire battery by connecting it to the consumer for a while.
We discard the consumer and re-test each element separately, determining the most discharged ones.
We get rid of the "weak link" by replacing it with new banks. We purchase the same individual batteries by reading the markings on the old ones
When repairing a screwdriver battery with your own hands, replacing cells is considered more effective than restoring them
We solder the entire system sequentially (plus to plus minus to minus).
When soldering, work very quickly so as not to overheat the battery. Otherwise, it will not be subject to restoration.
For a new or renewed battery, a distillation is recommended. In this case, you need to charge the power tool to the maximum value, and then completely discharge it. Repeat all 2-3 times. This operation is standard for all nickel-cadmium products. It is recommended to carry out it about every six months to keep the equipment in good shape.
The negative effect of NI-CD is the so-called "memory effect". You should not put on a charge a not completely discharged battery, since it "takes" this point as a zero charge value and the next time it will not take power from the current source during charging when this level is reached.
For better subsequent operation, craftsmen recommend making the case collapsible. This will allow you to repair the screwdriver battery with your own hands an unlimited number of times.
Some craftsmen use a forced battery charge, which leads to negative consequences. The electrolyte present boils inside the cans. Some of it can evaporate, which leads to the exposure of the connecting plates in the structure.
We determine the problematic component parts of the block with a multimeter, having unsoldered it into parts. We dismantle the highlighted cans and use a punch with a pointed end. With its help we make a small hole from the "minus" side. It is desirable that it is not in the middle and has a diameter for the penetration of a medical needle.
Inside, add 0.5-1 mm of distilled water with a small syringe. It is important to seal the hole in the next step. For this, an epoxy compound is used. We return the reanimated part to the block.
Using a 1.5 V light bulb, we discharge all the cans to the same level. At the next stage, we carry out five to six charge / discharge cycles to the maximum. Then you can use the equipment again for a long time.
VIDEO: A real way to restore 100% battery of a screwdriver
Video (click to play).
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