In detail: do-it-yourself repair of automatic transmission 4hp18 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The site provides information on automatic transmissions
Automatic transmission schemes, variators. The principles of the units.
Repair, disassembly and assembly of automatic transmission.
Resistances of solenoids and temperature sensor. Automatic transmission connector contacts.
Electrical diagram from the automatic transmission ECU to the solenoids (there may be differences)
Valve body board with manual shift piston.
Strainer and retainers.
Upper side of the main valve body plate with valves and retainers.
Test holes for measuring main and control pressure.
Scheme of operation of solenoids and clutches in gears:
The German company ZF is one of the largest independent gearbox manufacturers, supplying its transmissions to dozens of different major car manufacturers. Automatic transmission ZF 4HP18 was developed in the late eighties of the last century and was installed on cars Peugeot, Rover, Saab and Audi. It was on the front-wheel drive modification of the Audi 100 that this model of gearboxes received the greatest popularity.
The reliability of the transmission was combined with its simplicity and ease of use. The optimized gear ratios made it possible to easily realize the dynamic performance of both small-sized engines and rather powerful power units with a volume of 3 liters or more. Modification soon appeared AKKP ZF 4HP18, which was intended for an all-wheel drive platform. It should be noted that the ZF 4HP18 automatic four-speed gearbox was actually one of the first transmissions to be electronically controlled. This made it possible to significantly improve the usability of the machine, but negatively affected the reliability indicators. Most types of repair of this model of gearboxes are complex, so that car owners are forced to contact specialized repair shops. In most cases, it is simply impossible to carry out repairs on your own.
Video (click to play). |
However, it must be said that the problem with the electronics in most cases was solved by replacing the cables, which eventually rotted and led to errors in the operation of the automatic transmission. Common breakdowns include brake band problems, failed pump bushings, and a burnt clutch. It should be noted that certain types of breakdowns were difficult to repair, so many car owners, in case of clutch problems, simply changed transmissions to new working versions.
1. Pump wheel of the torque converter
2. Torque converter turbine wheel
3. Fixed turbine wheel of the reactor
4. Lock-up piston with vibration damper
5. Freewheel clutch
6. Pump
7. Blocker
8. Planetary gear
9. Differential
U Ring gear
T Pinion shaft
S1-S2 Side gears
P1-P2 Crown wheels
10 Control element
A-B-E Clutches
C-D Brakes
C 'Band brakes
Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!
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4 mortar, automatic transmission ZF 4HP18 (4HP18FLA Audi) has been working since 1986 on the Saab 9000 (4HP18Q), Rover, Peugeout, Citroen. In 1989, the box was modified. Several more modifications were later released.
And now this rare box lives mainly with front-wheel drive Audi 100s with displacement from 2.0 to 3.0 liters, which chose this automatic transmission in 1990. Later it was modified for the all-wheel drive Audi 100 and Audi Quattro on which it served until 1994. This transmission competed with Audi's own development - the legendary automatic transmission. 097 – 01N .
Design 4HP18 served as the basis for the 5-speed 5HP18 and later for the super popular 5HP19 .
Select repair kits for overhaul - press the button on the left.
Typical repair points of automatic transmission ZF 4HP18:
The overwhelming majority of repairs are 4hp18 modifications for Audi. The filter for them (173010A) is in the picture on the right.
But about a fifth of all repairs are taken together: Saab, Alfa 164, Lancia, Citroen, which have a round filter No. (173010).
The gearbox is unpretentious to oil, it works equally well on red and yellow oils LT 71141 and type Dexron 2 and 3, synthetics last longer and better, therefore, with a complete oil change, Dexron III analogues are often poured.
It is only required to maintain the purity of the oil by regular partial oil changes, so that the box can easily pass 300-400 tkm before the first overhaul. In case of partial replacement, the oil color cannot be changed (more details).
For the bulkhead of this indestructible box, they almost always order a repair kit for gaskets and seals No. 173002. The OverolKit from the Prescription is popular, there are various kits for all-wheel drive. All compression rings and rubber of burnt bags are changed. First of all, the clutches of the Forward (173100) and the package 3-4 (173108) with steel discs are changed
But responsible craftsmen recommend changing the rest of the clutches with a full set - 173003. Especially when the oil smelled burnt when it came to repair.
The set of steel discs is changed less often - No. 173004 or Masterkit - 173007 is chosen.
These automatic transmissions come to repair less and less and with a complaint typical of old unkillable automatic transmissions: burnt clutch packs and brake bands (173020).
Brake band up to 1991 - narrow, 40mm. (173020).
Since 1991 Toromznuyu Tape has been made wider - 50mm. (173020A).
In an age automatic transmission (as in the subsequent 5HP18), the Piston sometimes bursts D № 173967 . (on right)
Check for hidden cracks.
Frequent replacement: pump bushing (173034) and
turbine shaft bushing (173049)
Vibrations grinds the compression ring on the caliper at the pump.
“Cosmetic” overhaul of a box with a worn-out torque converter is sometimes limited to repairing the pump and its sleeve with replacement of the pump oil seal - No. 173070.
Small electrical repairs (rotten insulation and contacts) are made without removing the box by the owners themselves.
The cost and availability of the required items can be checked in the online store (button top right) or by clicking a number on an orange background.
Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day
CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts
# 1 Post CaSper Wed Sep 15, 2009 3:25 pm
Good day to all.
Please tell me what could be the problem?
The situation is this:
The box broke down at one point, was dismantled from the car and taken to a specialist.
It turned out that a scribe had come to the pump, gouged the grooves of the donut, etc.
We replaced the pump, replaced the bagel, replaced the clutches + steel grades + replaced a lot of other things, but that’s not the point.
The box was brought back, put on the car, filled with oil.
Everything is alright. BUT there is one but.
When the car warms up, switching from 3rd to 4th gear with a smooth acceleration occurs with an increase in revolutions somewhere by 100-200 and, naturally, with a subsequent jerk.
If you drive harder (that is, switching from 3 to 4 will not be at a speed of 60-70, but at 80 and beyond), the gearbox switches clearly and without jerks
A friend said that it was necessary to increase the pressure by twisting the valve on the valve body (I don't know what to call it, I looked at the valve body - there is a turnkey torsen).
Now I go almost always in 3rd gear, and I switch to 4th gear for gas relief.
Now I'm going to change the oil in the box and unscrew the pan.
Maybe you should try adjusting this “valve”?
Who will say what about this?
# 2 Post Dron Wed Sep 15, 2009 9:33 pm
# 3 Post Dron Wed Sep 15, 2009 9:45 pm
# 4 Post CaSper Wed Sep 15, 2009 10:04 pm
The fact is that before the repair, the box worked disgustingly, namely, it kicked hot in all gears. (I bought this foolishly)
About the box - the nameplate says 4hp-18 CRE. But how I climbed through all sorts of directories - I realized that she was 01N, apparently I didn't understand nifiga)
As far as I remember, there are only 5 solenoids in a row (Or even 4)
Because I once burned out solenoid # 2 (the box went into emergency mode and the error indicated it).
The replacement was all decided.
I remember exactly that there are 3 or 4 identical shtovye, and one with a mesh.
# 5 Post Dron Wed Sep 15, 2009 10:22 pm
No, it means all the same ZF 4HP18
Do you have the solenoids like that?
This is from 01 boxes (photo from transparts).
By 4-18, unfortunately, I can not tell anything, I know little of her. I can only say one thing: I believe it is better not to touch the factory pressure adjustment, since almost always something else turns out to be the culprit (as a rule, the pressure regulator (solenoid)).
# 6 Post GEEPER Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:27 am
DEUTSCH auto
European auto technical center
+7 913 289 9506
Kemerovo, Bauman st. 55
# 7 Post CaSper Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:16 pm
"Check the servo bands 2-4 for correct assembly and whether the Belleville springs on the piston are broken (squashed). The rings are rubber too. And the support for the heels of the band."
As I understand it is impossible to get to this without disassembling the box?
The torque converter is an integral part of the automatic transmission, therefore, when repairing the gearbox
its repair is also necessary. In a torque converter, as in an automatic transmission, it can
many breakdowns occur, for example:
Installing an unrepaired torque converter on a newly restored automatic transmission, you risk immediately breaking the gearbox again, because it will contain all the wear products of the torque converter, and in the worst case, the metal parts of the bearings or blades.
Do you want to buy a used torque converter? Don't rush to make a mistake! It is impossible to guess the quality of the automatic transmission fluid coupling used, moreover, purchased at the same price as a reliable repair. We offer the exchange of your torque converter for an already repaired one from our warehouse, or we can carry out a high-quality overhaul in our workshop.
The cost of repairing a torque converter usually varies from 2,500 (disassembly, flushing and assembly) to 12,000 rubles (in case of serious breakdowns), this is influenced by the complexity of the work, the number and cost of damaged parts. This is cheaper than re-repairing an automatic transmission. The average cost of repairs, including labor and spare parts, is about 4-6 thousand rubles.
We also carry out a quick repair of your torque converter in 1-2 hours right in front of you. You yourself will see all its breakdowns. At the same time, we do not make an extra charge for the urgency of work.
1) Cutting the torque converter.
The weld seam, which connects the two halves, is carefully cut, leaving as much metal as possible. With proper cutting, the torque converter can be easily disassembled and reassembled 2-3 times on occasion. Unfortunately, many transformer repair shops remove all metal from the body the first time they cut it.
2) After cleaning all parts of oil and wear products, the repair itself begins. If necessary, a new torque converter lock-up clutch is glued on, the body surface is leveled under the new clutch. And here unscrupulous repairmen again have problems out of the blue. They grind the body for the new friction clutch so that they cut off almost all the metal through and through, because of this, through cracks then appear. A normal craftsman is neat and does not remove excess metal. Then other necessary parts are replaced - bearings, O-rings, oil seal, etc.If necessary, a new neck is welded into the transformer cover. This procedure requires accuracy and precision, since usually unskilled workers are not able to cut a hole in the lid to fit the new neck, but drill it half a millimeter more, which is fraught with runout and imbalance.
3) Assembly.
It is imperative to weld both converter halves back as factory. In this case, it is necessary to minimize the axial runout between the two halves (balancing) and ensure the tightness of the seam. For a good craftsman, even the appearance of the repaired unit matters, which is why, after being repaired in GIDROTOR, the torque converter looks the same as a new one made at the factory.
In the video, the usual average result of our repair is a runout of 6 hundredths of a millimeter with an allowable runout of 3 tenths.
An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.
Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:
- diagnostics,
- dismantling the box,
- disassembly of the box,
- complete set with spare parts,
- assembly (installation),
- installation on a car,
- diagnostics after repair.
To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, time to work, patience, and perseverance.
All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.
It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.
Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.
Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks while driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.
Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.
All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in
- electronic control system,
- mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.
If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes to third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.
If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.
In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.
General scheme of diagnostic procedures:
- check the oil,
- check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
- determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
- check the box on a car without movement,
- check the automatic transmission in motion,
- check the pressure inside the control system.
If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:
- input sensors,
- electronic control unit,
- executive devices of the control system,
- violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.
The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.
These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:
- Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
- Defective transformer. This includes:
- breaks in the splines of the wires,
- mechanical destruction of the blades,
- overrunning clutch,
- wear of the main blocking clutch,
- depressurization of the piston oil seal.
- Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.
If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.
You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:
- disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
- unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
- remove and move the gearbox;
- assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.
Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container in the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.
All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.
It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:
- We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
- We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
- Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
- We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
- Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
- We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear.We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
- We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
- We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
- Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
- We replace rings and friction bolts.
- We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.
Assembly takes place upside-down.
There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.
If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:
- When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
- The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
- Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
- At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.
Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.
Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.