In detail: do-it-yourself ax4s automatic transmission repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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City Novosibirsk
Car Model: Ford Taurus
Engine: 3.0 volcano
Year: 1991
Body: sedan
I must say right away that on the forums I prefer to remain neutral in matters of creating new topics and hide all my know-how on repairing certain car parts.
But with Taurus, and my Taurus is:
- year 1991
- ICE Vulcan
- automatic transmission AXOD-E AX4S
- ECU T1D3 F1DF12A650CD (ECU EPC F1DF-12A650-CD)
- mileage 40 thousand miles
The problems began with the crooked brains of the local service stations 15 years ago, when the super-Ford was brought into Russia from America.
For a year, pouring in non-Orthodox oil, the AXOD-E box with two round chips was ditched.
After that, a contract AX4S box was purchased from America.
Whistling with the electrician began.
The guys there operated with information almost by touch, in the repair book I found many manuscripts with pinout of connectors, marking all information about contacts ..
In short, someone was straining a lot for a very long time.
I suppose the owner of the car gave the parting words - a serious guy who crucified everyone.
But Ford didn't come to life.
Years later, more precisely - 2 years ago, I was “lucky” to pick up Taurus for nothing, well, almost in perfect condition. In one in which the dashboard is cracked in places, but it looks like fire! The red interior is fully equipped.
An ideal body, not without a "boy" collective farm in the form of:
- BRIDE stickers on the windshield and rear window (+ 5% to speed)
- two co-currents of the size that you can put your foot in and a cutting line for welding (+ 50% to the speed)
- zero (+ 100500% to speed)
- all locks from the car are completely absent, the steering column lock is generally uprooted with an aluminum root (-100 to put under the anthill window)
- SPORT ignition in the form of three toggle switches and a START button (+125 headaches with wiring)
- soundproofed in such a circle and in such thickness that I could not dig it to the bottom
- high-quality podiums for 20 speakers
- chrome-plated 18 (.) Wheels with rubber 215/45
Perhaps I forgot something else from the collective farm ..
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Video (click to play). |
The first thing I did was distort the brutal appearance of this pepelatsa, and gave the boys my word that I would restore this little owl.
That's why I drove him free to his garage.
In short, I will say that starter repair is the simplest and most inexpensive.
Repair of the wiring consists in blunt ringing of all circuits from the books in the “HELP” section.
The diagram of the adapter from 2 round AXOD-E chips to the AX4S trapezoidal chip is also described in one of the books in the "HELP" section
It's just that if you do it without brains, it will turn out as it did for those guys 15 years ago.
Symptoms of the car were as follows - the car drives at 1 and 2 speeds well, and when you switch to speed 3, it switches to Unknown, Emptiness, darkness and hatred. In short, the revs are growing and the car is not accelerating.
Whether it's D or OD.
The guys have been dripping on Shift-Solenoid 3 for a long time, they say the problem is in it, it does not turn on and that's all. They pointed me to the wiring.
Well, I, as not really wanting to strain in studying all possible documents on the device of this car, did the following:
- shook up all the wiring, ripped out all unnecessary and restored to the factory parameters.
- rang and adjusted the selector position sensor
- measured the resistance of all sensors
- CHANGED the automatic transmission for B / U
- changed the solenoids in the used automatic transmission because 1 was stuck, 1 was loose, 1 was with a broken chip, and in general we climbed into the automatic transmission ..
- lowered his hands, tk. the problem remains 1 in 1 the same.
And then I concluded that after all, two identical boxes, from different places, cannot have the same problem - erased clutches and everything that can be erased there.
Everything that scares you on the forum all the time, everyone's experienced
It was 18 months of my possession of this corpse.
Well, I decided to open the computer.
I opened it and saw a leaked capacitor, and one transistor, which was clearly overheating.
Decided. HERE IT IS!
And he gave it to be repaired, making sure in advance that the repairman answered - the coolest repair service in Novosibirsk! HYBRID SERVICE on Timiryazeva 2.
And I asked them - How do you repair computers, assemble a stand?
Answer: - Yeah !! We are assembling a stand, we connect everything with a tight sydy and look we do voila!
And I happily gave these guys a computer in the hope that now in my piggy bank there will be the rarest brainy posons in the area.
Taking 3 tyr from me, we soldered the capacitor and the transistor.
They gave me the device back and said:
- HERE WE DID! We removed everything bad there, put in the good and now check it well.
I put the device in the car all so inspired, I think I'll turn it on now. AND.
I poked it, but speed 3 did not turn on and does not turn on. Anyway, no changes.
Well, I concluded that it was necessary to drive a wheelbarrow to them.
And then I concluded that the guys did not connect the computer to any stand, that they did not even delve into the essence of the breakdown indicated by me - "Speed 3 does not turn on"
That is, even super repairmen, if you do not observe the diagnostic process with your own eyes, will not tear your ass for you and your old lady. And it’s not even a question of price, it’s just that they won’t.
How the conclusion appeared:
- When issuing, I asked the master to answer, which channel in the computer connector did not work? He mumbled dryly - TSS is there. blah blah
- I asked about the car that did not run - EXACTLY connected to the stand? To which I saw the truth - well, we connected the channels and watched, but you can't think of a stand at all!
Well, it was also annoying that the parts were changed ON NOT AUTOMOTIVE! This means that the temperature allowed in the operation of the components installed by them is 85g instead of 105g for AUTOMOTIVE electronic components.
How the hypothesis was tested - I stupidly rang the circuit in the computer from ALL resistors to the pins in the connector and found out:
This transistor-pin bundle belonged to the EGR valve.
I wanted to lay out the entire layout of the transyuk, but I will not - it is so easy to call them on this computer ..
Briefly speaking. Next maneuver:
I scanned the computer for errors and got such a shaft. everything was erased and only one remained - 622.
I exposed 4 wires in the connector connected to the computer, these are pins 57 PWR, SS-3, SS-2 and SS-1.
He took out snot from each, and connected them in pairs to the tester (a multi-channel oscilloscope with a display would give me much more comfort ..)
I watched how the car behaves when working with Shift Solenoid 1, 2 and 3.
It turned out:
only one solenoid works in all gears - SS2
In 2nd gear, SS1 is connected (SS1 + SS2)
in third gear, only one solenoid works - SS3
And on the fourth, I did not check, but it seems like SS3 + SS1
(I scooped up this information on one of the sites and checked it out ..)
In general, only SS2 behaved strangely, and the computer loomed to me with error 622. (I always remembered the words of the boys about the problem in SS3
And he behaved like this:
all gears on it were 8 volts. And it should be 12. And not at all.
When switching to speed 3, the brain was clever ska and worked out something so that solenoid 2 was energized, and the third solenoid on D did not turn on.
It's still a mystery to me:
Why did he include it on OD? Is it somehow hard-and-hard regulated?
In general, I ordered a new second-hand computer for 2 tr from Yoshkar-Ola, installed it and was happy!
When the car went.
She went - this afternoon.
Now, my advice to you is to get a multichannel oscilloscope with a screen and straight arms.
Advice for all occasions.
Conclusion - I still have one live box. Mine, in my warehouse
Now, my questions are:
- PEOPLE WHERE TO FIND THE LOCKS IN THE DOOR AND THE TRUNK.
- WHERE TO FIND WINDOWS BUTTONS IN THE DOOR.
- WHERE TO TAKE A FULL SET OF AIR CONDITIONING PIPES.
- IS THERE “TUNING” OF THE RADIATOR GRILLE.Desirable cheerful
- IS THERE TUNING OF THE HEADLIGHTS.
PS: I don't see any point in uploading pictures and stuff - images are often lost from the forum.
Therefore, I filled the text with a description of the problems and keywords for an SEO search for my problem on the Internet.
Edited 1 time. Last time 08/16/2017 20:29 Answerser.
History of front wheel drive 4 mortars AXOD / AXOD-E / AX4S reminds of the history of rear wheel drive AOD / AOD-E.
It began in 1986, when the Crown Victoria with a 4.6 liter engine was already thundering and Ford decided to release a new bestseller for lower class cars - Ford Taurus with an optimal 3.0 liter engine. The automatic transmission for him was also supposed to be ideal, no worse than that of Crown Victoria.
AXOD was installed on the Ford Taurus until 1990, when it was replaced by an electronic modification AXOD-E, where the letter E- stands for throne control of gear shifting instead of a mechanical-hydraulic modulator. To the previously existing torque converter lock-up solenoid (a novelty in the world of automatic machines), a linear pressure solenoid and electronic sensors, sensors that collect information for the control unit and the driver, have appeared.
In AXOD, the Forward clutch package was reinforced, which turned out to be heavier than the others and required repairs too quickly. But numerous problems of AXOD forced this progressive machine to be further refined, and in 1994 the following modification appeared - AX4N. And then, following her - AX4S. In 1998 AX4S modified again, changing some consumables, valve body and adjusting the clutches to a new oil: Merkon-5. Until 98, these machines worked on the Merkon-4.
Since 2004, this long-suffering family of boxes of the long-suffering Taurus has been abandoned in favor of the 6-speed problem-free Aisin AF-21 (TF-81SC)
This family of automatic transmissions did not cause stormy enthusiasm among the transmission experts. The gearbox had many problems with switching 1-2 speeds (on the left - a structurally weak point), required frequent oil changes and had a rather short resource before and after overhaul.
Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.
It is believed that the design solutions for the Torque Converter are not entirely successful here. All the innovations that were designed to make driving more comfortable and economical, led to the fact that the box began to work in much more extreme conditions in terms of oil temperature, its contamination and the chemical composition of the oil suspension.
In more detail - in the description of the problems of the latest generation of these boxes - AX4N.
When overhauling AXOD / AXODE / AX4S, order Repair Kit for gaskets and seals 242002. Usually - Precision (AXODE on the right, AXOD on the left).
Less often - the entire set of clutches - 242003. Usually the original from Borg Warner.
For a complete bulkhead of the burned-out AXODE / AX4S (1991-2000) order Masterkit - 242007. Always change the filter and brake band at the bulkhead.
Filters 242010 for all modifications of AXOD / AXODE / AX4S were produced the same, changing only the length of the tube and the color of the seal from orange to green.
And on the model SHO the filter intake with an orange seal was slightly lengthened.
Disposable fine filter with double felt membrane.
Older cars (and those that come for repair with burnt oil) require replacement of O.D. brake bands. 242020 and Rear (for older models) 242026.
Less often they order the entire set of bushings - 242030.
and Forward - 242964. Less often, the rest of the pistons are changed separately - Intermediate 242962 and 242963.
And 242965 (Direct) 242967 (Low / Inter).
Washers-washers develop their life from age and overheating, change with a set - 242200.
Together with them, the Main pressure solenoid EPC - 242431 is also changed.
Less often - planetary gears 242583 (242582 and 242584) and Drum 242620 change. 
Change the shaft - due to problems with blocking the torque converter or lack of traction (see manual) - 242671.
Mostly consumables of the most strenuous packages burn Direct (242106) and Forward (242108 -Large).
But in the case of burnt oil during overhaul, a complete set of clutches is ordered - No. 242003.
The rotary-type pump, with sliding blades in the grooves, is a prototype of the one that somewhat spoiled the image of the BMW X5. Dislikes dirty oil and overspeeding, can be repaired using pump repair kits no. 242531.
It is recommended to solve the problems of the age machine by installing an additional cooling radiator and an annual oil change with a filter.
You can read more about the features of this automatic transmission family on the page AX4N ... The manual can be found on the right -
You can check the cost and availability of items in the online store by clicking the number on an orange background to search for details.
On which cars this automatic transmission family was installed:
Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day
CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts
# 1 Post RVV-68 Apr 28, 2009 4:27 pm
# 2 Post Odessa citizen Apr 28, 2009 4:36 pm
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# 7 Post RVV-68 Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:07 am
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# 9 Post akppist Apr 30, 2009 8:46 am
# 10 Post RVV-68 Apr 30, 2009 9:12 am
# 11 Message GEEPER Apr 30, 2009 9:15 am
DEUTSCH auto
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+7 913 289 9506
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# 14 Message GEEPER »Fri May 01, 2009 4:13 am
DEUTSCH auto
European auto technical center
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Kemerovo, Bauman st. 55
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AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions
AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions
An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.
Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:
- diagnostics,
- dismantling the box,
- disassembly of the box,
- complete set with spare parts,
- assembly (installation),
- installation on a car,
- diagnostics after repair.
To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, time to work, patience, and perseverance.
All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.
It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.
Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.
Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks while driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.
Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.
All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in
- electronic control system,
- mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.
If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.
If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.
In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.
General scheme of diagnostic procedures:
- check the oil,
- check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
- determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
- check the box on a car without movement,
- check the automatic transmission in motion,
- check the pressure inside the control system.
If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:
- input sensors,
- electronic control unit,
- executive devices of the control system,
- violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.
The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.
These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:
- Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
- Defective transformer. This includes:
- breaks in the splines of the wires,
- mechanical destruction of the blades,
- overrunning clutch,
- wear of the main blocking clutch,
- depressurization of the piston oil seal.
- Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.
If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.
You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:
- disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
- unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
- remove and move the gearbox;
- assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.
Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.
All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.
It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:
- We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
- We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
- Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
- We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
- Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
- We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
- We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
- We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
- Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
- We replace rings and friction bolts.
- We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.
Assembly takes place upside-down.
There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.
If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:
- When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
- The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
- Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
- At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.
Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.
Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.
By the way, as Tsefirovody wrote, there are adjusting screws on two solenoids, this can be seen in the photo.
The cogs, that is, but adjusting something will not work, they are very stuck, such as double punching
And to remove the valve body, it is enough to actually unscrew 14 bolts, 2 on the filter, and almost in a circle 12, since the filter, with the main number of bolts, is screwed only to the valve body, but there is an option to pour oil on it, since after removing the filter, from the unit another 300 grams of oil is poured out 
, just by unscrewing the bolts, remember where these bolts come from, otherwise there are 4 types of lengths, the longest .. go to the filter, good luck 
Yeah. I myself only did the parking sensors on the car.
Sometimes you want to take some special Zhiguli purely for fiddling with them in the country.
I've also picked up a bit.
well, whoever throws it out like that .. no newspapers?
I'm afraid to disassemble the mechanic, for some reason it seems to me that the automatic transmission is easier to disassemble / assemble. did not do the mechanics.
In fact, it is not more complicated than an in-line one. Just an unusual layout.
The mechanics are stupidly a set of gears, there is nothing complicated there
I read it as a hedgehog (the suba's engine is called that way) and therefore wrote it right)
Respect for non-rukozhopost, but, in my opinion, such posts are more appropriate to do at autoforums. Subarovody (I am among them) will only say thank you. By the way, I can tell you how to increase the rear-wheel drive preload without reducing the clearance in the clutch pack in the shank. the transition to the blocking mode in general you will not notice on the slippery surface. The box is as I understand it TZ1, not TV.
and I can also post a report about the forced locking of the rear drive. driving sideways will become more comfortable and the load on the shank clutch pack will be reduced.
Oh, Eugene! I almost immediately recognized you by the way of expressing thoughts)
but I'm not writing to you) follow the commentary thread
I know how to do it =) I was looking for a TV tail before rebuild and did not find it. plans to make a toggle switch for C salenoid and put a gearbox with lsd and new drives (old drives were demolished for sale)
the toggle switch is okay, if you need the wire number in the block, I'll tell you how to check so as not to confuse it, I think you know. do you want to increase the preload? you just need to change the oil supply to the solenoid C - it is adjusted with a hexagon. The gearbox is not necessarily LSD-shny, it will not give a complete blockage. Shore track taxis, although I myself drive LSD-shnom. but lsd lsd are also different. look with a clutch in place of the stetelite, and not in the driven gear. they have a harder preload.
I don’t know that. Throw a reference to the source or explain. But even there is no desire to shoot the tail again at all)
well, a kick in the ass is a very common phenomenon and quickly arises, especially among fans of active driving)))) everything is simple there, you insert the hexagon into the hole (I won't tell you the number, you can pick it up empirically, I also picked it up), turn on the ignition, put the automatic transmission switch in position D. the solenoid starts to buzz (voltage is applied to it), turn the hexagon clockwise until the buzzing stops (full blocking mode) and return it a little counterclockwise. I rolled back about 5 degrees. I also recommend checking the voltage on the DPDZ, it should be in the range of 0.46-0.52 V (I experimented up to 0.55, from experience it is better to set 0.48, it's hard to catch, so if you just get into the range, it's already good) ... The brains, by its position, determine the voltage supply to the solenoid C.
I have no hex. Or twist it for 2 small holes?
Here it is necessary to pick it open neatly, I also had a hard time getting in. There is an inside nest. You will feel when it engages.
However, I do not have a 6-sided there. Tomorrow I'll take a look at the old braggart. About dpdz everything costs according to manual 0.48.
There is a question about the box, the oil pumps of the TZ103 and TZ1A3 boxes are very different and where you can find information on the boxes on the Subari, otherwise the car does not move, I sin on the oil pump
By the way, as Tsefirovody wrote, there are adjusting screws on two solenoids, this can be seen in the photo.
The cogs, that is, but adjusting something will not work, they are very stuck, like double punching
And to remove the valve body, it is enough to actually unscrew 14 bolts, 2 on the filter, and almost in a circle 12, since the filter, with the main number of bolts, is screwed only to the valve body, but there is an option to pour oil on it, since after removing the filter, from the unit another 300 grams of oil is poured out
, just unscrewing the bolts, remember where these bolts come from, otherwise there are 4 types of lengths, the longest .. go to the filter, good luck
AXOD, AXOD-E, AX4S is a four-stroke automatic transmission designed for installation on Ford and Mazda cars, as well as on Crown Victoria and Ford Taurus cars. For the first time on the market, this transmission model appeared in 1986 and was popular among car owners.
The automatic transmissions AXOD, AXOD-E, AX4S have undergone several modernizations, as a result of which the function of the hydraulic modulator began to be performed by solenoids with electronic control of work, which are responsible for blocking the operation of the hydrotransforming system. Thanks to these changes, the transmission has become reliable and durable. Also, the optimization of the transmission oils was carried out, which made it possible to achieve an increase in the dynamics of the power unit. First of all, this automatic transmission model was developed for installation on machines that are equipped with six- and eight-cylinder power units. The transmission runs 200 thousand km before overhaul. The oil and filter must be changed once every 100 km. If you have experience, you can carry out work on the maintenance of the vehicle, in particular the transmission, on your own, due to the simple design of the unit.
Automatic transmissions AXOD, AXOD-E, AX4S, subject to the rules of technical operation, rarely fail. Of the typical malfunctions, one can single out premature wear of solenoids and consumables. In most cases, this occurs due to untimely replacement or filling of oil that is not suitable in composition and quality. In this situation, the transmission fluid, filter and solenoids are replaced. Despite the simplicity of the operation, it is better to entrust its implementation to the specialists of the service center, who will perform this work as soon as possible.
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Video (click to play). |
A complete replacement of the automatic transmission is carried out with severe wear and the impossibility of restoring the unit, as well as in cases where the price of repair and a new box is equal. The service center "AKPP Guru" offers to purchase a new or remanufactured (contract) transmission of this modification. On condition of joint cooperation, we are ready to offer: affordable prices, assistance in choosing a transmission, a guarantee for operation. You can order an automatic transmission by phone or via an online application.
