In detail: do-it-yourself repair of automatic transmission Lancer 10 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I've been going to make such a mini-guide for a long time. But the most difficult thing, as you know, is to start.
I was “lucky” to be the owner of a Japanese Mitsubishi Lancer, born in 1989. I got it after a major overhaul by craftsmen, the presale was 5+. Everything glittered and sparkled, buzzed and rustled. All the jambs were discovered after the purchase. it was the first car, all the shortcomings were taken for granted - like it happens to others. The machine honestly left the summer and began to break down, repairs were carried out on their own. The only replacement in the service is the windshield.
I don’t remember how it started, but it began. At first, a little something went wrong when starting off - some kind of extraneous sound when releasing the clutch. Sinned on him - but after replacing the disk, the situation has not changed. There is only one suspicion left - a manual 5-speed gearbox which has faithfully served 188 thousand km. mileage. For some rather long time I drove and covered my ears to noise / creak when driving in first and second gears, there was no noise in the rest. However, the whole thing worried and progressed. There was a characteristic metallic rattle, and so on. a trip of 400 km was planned. in one direction, all the same I had to drive into a hole in the garage. I will warn you right away - I am not a mechanic, and if I name something different from what it is actually called, I ask you to forgive me. I DID ALL THE WORK ALONE - IF NOT SURE IN THEIR STRENGTH - IT'S BETTER TO CALL AN ASSISTANT.
Video (click to play).
After reading the page about the checkpoint in the manual several times, I climbed into the pit. I already had to remove the box before that, although I did not pull it out (when replacing the clutch) - here I think there will be no difficulties - first we unscrew everything from the box itself - the clutch, lever drives, clutch cable, starter (oh fuck you will crawl), sensor reverse, etc. The wheels have already been removed, the struts have been unscrewed and the hubs are set aside while simultaneously pulling the drives out of the transfer case. I did not remove the drive - I fixed them in a suspended state so as not to interfere. Then, with the help of a manual winch and seat belts (nothing more suitable was found), I fixed the box in a slightly suspended position and began to unscrew its fastening. First from the body, then from the engine. Then he climbed into the pit and began to pull the box out of the clutch basket (the box has a shaft, and if we don’t pull it out, we will remove the horseradish box). When the shaft is pulled out, then acting according to the circumstances - lifting and lowering, twisting, we bring the box under the wing of the car (the muzzle is tucked up rather high, so that it passes along the bottom) and from there into the light of day. We go nuts from the amount of dirt and take a smoke break. 1/3 of the job is done.
Looking at the picture in the book - everything seemed to be clear and there shouldn't have been any difficulties, but there were - having unscrewed all the bolts and halved the box, the box did not want to "open". Those. the halves moved slightly and remained hanging on the inner shafts. He took off the lid and began to unscrew the gears (here you have to be careful - there are small things that fall out very inappropriately).
He unscrewed it, took it off - it still holds something ... He rummaged through the whole box, unscrewed everything that was possible, until he unscrewed the necessary bolt that held the entire structure. after that, everything finally sorted out and the culprit appeared in front of me - the input shaft bearing. Completely killed. A little more and the oil seal would have torn. If you look closely, you can see metal dust - the bearing has worn out very much and metal has been used ...
I warn you right away - there is no analogue for this bearing (the outer diameter is 1 mm larger), you will have to look for the original.I really wanted to make an insert to construct, but they dissuaded me. In Bratsk there was no original, they offered to bring it within 2-3-4 weeks from the land of the rising sun. At least 700 rubles. Found unexpectedly through existential.ru and in transit through Krasnoyarsk was delivered from Moscow to Bratsk. Cost 450 rubles. + money for the train conductor for delivery from Krasnoyarsk.
It was already a matter of technique to assemble the box - the joints were missed with some kind of black sealant and slowly, without haste, I assembled everything in the reverse order. By the way, the pictures helped. at some points there were difficulties. Immediately advice - to hammer all the pins almost flush, leaving one such pin sticking out a little and checking the box (pulling the levers), I put the lid on - I stretched everything out and put the box on the car. As a result, this pin jammed on the inside of the lid and I had to remove everything backwards. So I swore….
It is rather difficult to put the box in one person, it is better to call an assistant, because firstly, it is quite heavy, and secondly, you need to be on both sides of the car at once: below and above. I did it alone, I won't say it's easy
Then we put on the starter, clutch, speed switch, etc. Fill in the oil and rejoice. I even forgot that it can be so quiet in the car
I sold the car, but if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer, write.
Well, as usual - when using materials, do not forget the reference!
Hello, in your report you wrote about the necessary bolt that held the entire structure, which one. I can’t make out everything, too.
Home / Polishing
What is polishing in general? This is a product based on synthetic materials that fills in small scratches, damage to the paintwork, giving the paintwork its original appearance. The polish contains complex solutions of silicone resins and beeswax, insoluble pigments, dyes that increase color saturation. The polish has protective properties, as it is a barrier between the paint and varnish layer and the environment: in the winter, polishing protects the paint from the cold, and in the summer from acid rain and dust. Correctly performed body polishing allows you to give the car a look "only from the inside", and also protects against corrosion. This procedure is not so complicated, but the best result can be achieved only when it is performed by professionals, who can be found in any car service. Operating a car in an urban environment is fraught with many dangers associated not only with the threat to the health of the driver, but also to the beauty of the car. Over time, the paint fades, scratches, dents and other damage appear. In addition to the external effect, cracks and scratches are dangerous because corrosive substances get under the paint layer through them, leading to corrosion over time.
It is worth mentioning also about water glass polishing and ceramic polishing.
Polishing with liquid glass is one of the best types of polish, which gives the car the brightest shine and the best protection from the external environment. Polishing with liquid glass is capable of completely protecting the paint and varnish layer from microcracks, acid precipitation, resins and other aggressive substances throughout the year. Belongs to the class of restorative polishes. And ceramic - polishing in which the paint and varnish layer is covered on top with the latest preservative composition, which is created using nanotechnology based on polyceramics. This type of polishing preserves the car body for two whole years, protecting it from micro-scratches and aggressive environment. This is one of the most expensive types of polish.
Cars of the first generations of Lancer, the line of which was launched back in 1973, were equipped with only manual gearboxes. But after six years, some models began to be equipped with 3, and since 2007 - with 4-speed automatic transmissions with electronic control.
All gearboxes from Mitsubishi Motors are created thanks to the company's own development of the company's engineers, but the full production cycle is not complete without the services of third-party manufacturers, including the German company Getrag and a division of the Japanese company Jatco TransTechnology (JATCO)
ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"
As for the automatic transmission Lancer 10, it is quite reliable. As domestic experience has shown, the automatic transmission installed on this model has a long service life.
The classic Jatco F4A automatic transmission is available for the lower Lancer 10 engines (1.5 and 1.6), and the Jatco JF011E "variator" comes with 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines. There are no big comments on both automatic transmissions, the boxes are quite reliable.
A good old four-speed automatic can be considered over-aged, but it just doesn't kill. Many "servicemen" will not even be able to remember the weak points of this box. It is believed that the "tens" variator is no longer as unhurried and reliable as a "clean" automatic transmission.
Starting in 2007, 4-speed automatic transmissions of the INVECS-II type (Mitsubishi Motors' own brand) began to be used in the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 models.
When purchasing a contract box from Japan, you should request documentation to support all the information about this unit. Today, many companies are directly involved in the supply of automatic transmissions and other contract spare parts from abroad, so that buyers do not have to overpay to intermediaries.
Prices for used boxes vary greatly and depend on their condition. The average cost for a contract box "automatic" from Lancer 10 ranges from 20 to 50,000 rubles.
The new original gearbox will cost much more, its price is several hundred thousand rubles.
Many stubbornly argue about this, but let's figure out what is the real fuel consumption of the Mitsubishi Lancer X 1.5 and 1.6 with automatic transmission? Let's turn to the official fuel consumption rates per 100 km.
In the combined cycle, the fuel consumption of tenth generation Lancer cars with a 1.5 engine and an automatic transmission is 7 liters per hundred; in the urban cycle - 8-8.5 liters; and when driving outside the city - up to 5-5.5 liters.
Lancer 10 with 1.6 engine and automatic transmission consumes 7.1 liters on average; in the city - 9.1 l; and on the highway - 5.8.
The acceleration time to 100 km / h with the 1.5 AT is 14.3 seconds. The 1.6 AT engine turns out to be slightly nimble and delivers a result in 14 seconds.
Any type of automatic gearbox needs timely maintenance, the most important point in this case is the oil change.
Intermediate replacement - every 20-30 thousand km of run.
A standard oil change (with the removal of the filter and sump) - after 40 thousand km.
A complete oil change (by substitution method) is carried out at the stand in the SC after 60-90 thousand km.
Usually, the first malfunctions in the automatic transmission can be determined by extraneous noise, shocks, vibration, or visually - when the transmission oil changes its smell and color. You can also find out about a breakdown by the system code, but for an accurate diagnosis, it is necessary to carry out a large amount of work, which can only be dealt with in a service center.
The technical condition of any automatic transmission depends on the mileage and operation. What to do if at one "fine moment" the body of the box has split and the "automatic" cannot be restored or it is unprofitable to carry out, and the new automatic transmission is one of the most expensive parts of the car?
