DIY m4ta automatic transmission repair

In the production of their automatic transmissions, Japanese engineers first of all took into account reliability indicators. That is why automatic transmissions from Honda are distinguished by increased reliability and durability. One of the features of the four-speed automatic transmission M4TA, which appeared in 1997, is the lack of planetary gears.

The advantage of such a technological solution is improved reliability indicators. It should be noted that such gearboxes are bulky in size, so they are somewhat more difficult to repair. The M4TA automatic transmission was installed on the Honda Civic, Odyssey, Prelude, Accord, CRV crossover. The maximum engine displacement with which this transmission could be installed is 2.4 liters.

As stated above, Automatic transmission M4TA characterized by increased reliability. The car owner only needs to regularly change the oil along with the filter elements. It is necessary to use high-quality original transmission oil, which will protect the bushings and clutches from wear.

The need for major repairs in most cases arises with a mileage of 300,000 kilometers or more. At the same time, it should be noted that with improper operation of the gearbox and aggressive driving, frequent breakdowns are possible, which forces overhaul with a mileage of 100,000 kilometers and even earlier. That is why it should be noted that this gearbox is primarily intended for use in urban environments.

Of the common breakdowns, we can single out problems with oil seals and rubberized gaskets. In the conditions of Russian winters, rubberized gaskets can quickly deteriorate, which in turn causes oil leaks. In this case, it is necessary to replace the rubberized gaskets and oil seals. These repairs are difficult to carry out due to the large dimensions of the gearbox. Dismantling the pallet is a certain difficulty and can be performed exclusively at a service center. When carrying out a major overhaul, the condition of the hydraulic plate is inspected, the clutches and drums are replaced. In some cases, it is required to change a burnt clutch. In general, this gearbox leaves a positive impression of itself, it is distinguished by its reliability and maintainability.

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In that topic, 4 people unsubscribed about the successful procedure. But for some reason, on that forum, the topic is buried - and hidden, - probably for those moderators it is unprofitable And the topic is really important! - for example, if only I knew in advance, I wouldn’t go for two hours on the highway waiting for a tow truck! And in general - it allows you to postpone a visit to the service, makes it possible to drive, while waiting for a contract box

Made a video of this procedure
link

it would be good to do a FULL oil change immediately after this procedure, but the car runs without an oil change!

You need a transparent PVC tube 10mm 2-4 meters long (preferably 4), a pump or compressor, a nipple with a nipple, two plastic bottles, a tool for removing the clamp from the branch pipe and more rags or at least newspapers
if the mileage is more than 200 thousand km, it is better to carry this set in the trunk!
control the pressure on the pump pressure gauge - keep no more than 2 kg, it is better to fix the tube on the branch pipe with a clamp - so as not to break. Cycles leaked-pumped to make 15-20.
Oil gets into the pump, so then they can no longer pump the tires!

The method will exactly fit HONDA with boxes M4TA S4TA: CR-V RD1 B20B, ORTHIA EL1 EL2 EL3
maybe to other automatic boxes.

Attention!!
This procedure does not restore a worn-out box - it just slightly extends its life!
After the procedure and the subsequent FULL oil change, my car has already covered 1000 km

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The box is still alive - drove 3000 km
I did the backwashing 3 times - it helps at 700-1000 km - then it starts to slip.

On YouTube, in the comments to my video, two unsubscribed - that this procedure helped

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I drove 4500 km after "resuscitation" and almost a year (11 months)
I did backflush 4 times, and the last two - without changing the oil
I try not to go on long trips.

I will be repairing in the near future

Threat on YouTube, in the comments to my video, four unsubscribed that the procedure helped

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Experiment completed successfully!
I drove on a "dead" box for exactly one year and 5000 km. I suspect you could have traveled as much or even more!
I put the contract TROPICAL (.) S4TA-1 from Honda Orthia EL3 B20B 1996 instead of the native MDMA-3 electronic, it cost 20,000 rubles - at least two times cheaper than the electronic one, but this is a different topic - I will unsubscribe later

There are some suspicious thoughts - what happened to my box, I will also unsubscribe later, it is necessary to bring the theory under them.

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Experiment completed successfully!
I drove on a "dead" box for exactly one year and 5000 km. I suspect you could have traveled as much or even more!
I put the contract TROPICAL (.) S4TA-1 from Honda Orthia EL3 B20B 1996 instead of the native MDMA-3 electronic, it cost 20,000 rubles - at least two times cheaper than the electronic one, but this is a different topic - I will unsubscribe later

There are some suspicious thoughts - what happened to my box, I will also unsubscribe later, it is necessary to bring the theory under them.

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hello. the oil was changed, stupidly drained and poured in a new one, I was not present at the service myself. after that the car drove much longer until the first refusal, the thoughtfulness of the box passed, but the problem still returned somewhere after half an hour of continuous driving around the city. I bought oil dextron 3 automatic + mannol, took a 4L canister on a wholesale basis 900r. by the way, before the replacement, the error "malfunction of the input shaft rotation speed sensor" popped up, I changed it, ordered a used one. parsing did not help, after changing the oil, the error did not come out anymore, but the problem also remained. I have not checked the oil level. if you climb to change the filter and cut the bagel, the final cost of the repair is more expensive than replacing the automatic transmission with a contract one.

The main question that torments, can anyone explain why the box is disconnected? warming up the oil? but when you restart the car, it almost immediately starts to go, wait 10-15 seconds and how it didn’t go all over again, it cannot cool down during this time. on hot there is a buzzing sound like a dying gur pump.

Thank you very much for the consultation!

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Greetings, in general, it is recommended to use dextron for a short time, just to get to the service station, and in everyday use in the automatic transmission of our cars, it is imperative to use ATF-DW1.

The following are involved in the control of gear shifting of our machines:
- automatic transmission selector position sensor;
- throttle position sensor;
- primary (linear) shaft speed sensor;
- speed sensor of the secondary (intermediate) shaft;
- engine temperature sensor;
- speed sensor;
- solenoids;
- on-board computer (PCM);
- connectors and wires.

What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one). Wash everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Remove the Reverse gear bushing, needle bearing and ZX gear from the output shaft. Unscrew the bolt from the ZX shift fork, remove the fork together with the selector ring. Now pull out both shaft assemblies together.

Further, the differential is removed in assembly

Change the seals of the left inner CV joint, input shaft in the torque converter housing.
Be careful when removing oil seals! Do not damage the case, it is aluminum, easily wrinkled and scratched. Rough scratches can be wiped off with # 600 sandpaper soaked in ATF for half an hour. Lubricate new oil seals with ATF. I used a hammer during installation - gently tapping on the oil seal in a circle, the most tedious thing is to insert the first millimeters with the whole circle.
There is also a control shaft oil seal (which transfers mode switching from the selector cable to the manual valve of the box). This oil seal can be changed without any problems.

Remove the filter (it can be in principle and immediately removed as the case was opened
It looks like it is clean, but it was worth washing it like dirt like from a boot ...
I will not buy a new one, I washed myself completely, and behind the walls too.
Turned on the bottom of the flashlight for clearance

in general, many recommend changing it, if there was dirt in the trash on it, I probably would have done so!
Inspecting the shaft

they should not influence the work, but where did such crap come from? I looked at the pictures of who repaired how - the same badass ... well, they do not look like the factory ones!
Next, we see the oil seals on the shaft

And watch where they go
to be continued in the following.

What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side.There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one). Wash everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

On the first generation HONDA CR-V cars equipped with the M4TA automatic transmission (electronic), the following problem is often encountered:

The automatic transmission, which worked like a good Swiss watch until a certain day, suddenly starts to slip when shifting in all gears.

The so-called clutch pressure control valve is to blame. More precisely, its spring, which simply breaks into two parts.

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#Automatic transmission #HONDA # M4TA #Automatic transmissionHONDAM4TA #ClutchPressureControlValve #SpringClutchPressureControlValve #RepairAutomatic transmission #Automatic transmissionHONDAM4TAProcess Assembly #RepairAutomatic transmissionOwn hands

Hello, I have such a problem disassembled by automatic transmission MGSA Honda Odyssey j30a due to clogged box. Flushed completely assembled and she does not edit, the shafts do not spin when you give more gas the shafts move a little bit from the spot. tell me what could be. I sin on the torque converter, I don't know if it's right. And even from 2.3 a torque converter to 3.0 is suitable?

Hello! Thanks for the answer . I cannot understand where the pump itself is located, is it installed in the torque converter? And how can it be damaged when installing it, can I do something wrong? The car behaved like that when the automatic transmission began to shoot. Maybe I was digging in the wrong direction?

Thank you very much, I understood. When I flushed the valve body there, I found that the collar of the large gear of the oil pump had been destroyed because of this there is small damage on both gears. I have not betrayed any meaning to this. Perhaps this is the problem?

thanks a lot. Very useful and timely advice, otherwise I could not determine the contract or the repair. Now the contract.

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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all 4-stage Boxes have a related design - M4TA / S4TA / MDMA / MDLA / S4XA, SKWA

MRVA / MCVA ELEMENT BZKA / MZKA

MP1A, MPJA / A6VA / AOYA / BOYA / MPOA / MPXA / MPWA

HONDA machines stand apart from other automatic transmission manufacturers.

Honda gearboxes are fundamentally different from the rest of the world in particular in that they do not use planetary gears. They are much simpler structurally, more massive and, as a result, much more reliable. They come for repairs almost like manual gearboxes - rarely and with very high mileage. But Honda's automatic machines, like the rest of the world, have “weak points” of electronic control of switching: Friction discs, solenoids, electromechanical valves and a valve body.

Honda gave names to its numerous modifications haphazardly, using all letters (MDLA), as on registration numbers of cars. Together with letters, numbers began to be used (like the bestseller - M4TA). The only useful regularity that can be traced is that for all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive cars, the modification usually has the same different letters # 3: MDMA (four-wheel drive) and MDLA (front). Also, sometimes such letter replacements are observed in automatic machines for the same car model, but produced at different factories (like, for example, the popular Accord box of 98: American assembly - BAXA, Japanese - MAXA)

On which Honda cars these most popular 4 mortars are installed - see the table on the left.We meet this class of 4AT machines most often on: Civic, Accord, CR-V, Odyssey, Prelude, Element and on Akurovsky 2.2CL - 3.5 RL, Integra, Legend, NSX.

The most popular family of 4-speed 3-shaft transmissions is M4TA (MDMA / MRVA / MDLA) - Honda (CR-V) with an engine from 2 to 2.4 liters from 1997-2001. Honda machines are distinguished by their reliability and unpretentiousness. Therefore, some owners forget to monitor the quality of the oil and change it on time along with the filter. This leads to contamination of the valve body valves and solenoids, oil starvation and accelerated wear of O-rings, clutches and bushings. Normal mileage before the first overhaul is 300-400 tkm.

Find repair kits

In Honda's unkillable machines, the first one usually requires repair (replacement of consumables) is a torque converter - 380001.

A typical overhaul with a bulkhead begins in old age with an oil change and a metal mesh filter - M4TA 96-98 filter. - No. 380010.

With the change in the valve body, the filter mount has changed for subsequent modifications 99-2001 (Civic / CRV) - 380010AB.

For age machines, the craftsmen install an external magnetic fine filter - 100019,

The in-line external fine filter helps to keep the oil clear and removes wear on friction units. This is recommended for all machines that have a standard filter with a metal mesh. External filter - 100019 on age machines worth checking change every year or every 10 tkm. More details - here .

Since 2002, using synthetic oils for its boxes, Honda has switched to plastic filters with a felt membrane (MRMA / MRVA / MCTA) - 380010C.

For the overhaul of this family of boxes with a filter, they often order a Complete Repair Kit for gaskets and oil seals with clutches and steel discs - Masterkit, collected together here - 380007.

All Overols

- Repair kit for gaskets and seals for M4TAMDMA (four-wheel drive) and MDLA (front) 1997-2001 - No. 380002A. (S4XA / M4TA / MDMA / S4TA / MDLA / SKWA) - the most popular overhaul CR-V.

A related box for this family was installed on Acura Integra in the same years S4XA (96-99) and SKWA (2000-02). The kit includes all gaskets and gaskets necessary and obligatory for the bulkhead.

- Less often found in repair machines CR-V of the same issue series from 2002-04 - MRVA for all-wheel drive and MCVA - for front-wheel drive.

- Repair kit for gaskets and seals - No. 380002C. (MRMA / MCVA / MRVA / MKZA / MKYA / GPPA / GPLA / MZJA / MZHA / BZJA / BCLA / MCLA / BZKA / MZKA / BZNA / MNZA / MCTA / MRCA / BZHA). More often they order Overol from Prescription.

CR-V 02-04 MRVA / MCVA. This kit is also suitable for related Honda Element BZKA-MZKA (2WD + 4WD) automatic machines that were produced before 2006.

- For Honda Civic Repair Kit for gaskets and seals - No. 380002B.

It is matched for all editions from 97-98 (B4RA, B46A, M4RA), 99-2000 (BDRA, S4RA) and 2001-05 (BMXA, SLXA).

- Separate Repair Kit for gaskets and seals for 4AT Accord and Acura 2.3 CL - # 380002D. (suitable for automatic machines of the Accord 98-02, both American assembly - BAXA, and Japanese - MAXA. It is also used for the bulkhead of related automatic machines Acura B6VA (98-99) and Prelude M6HA from 1997-2001).

For earlier versions of machines up to 97 years (MP1A, MPJA / A6VA / AOYA / BOYA / MPOA / MPXA / MPWA / PX4B / PX4B / APX4 / APXA / MP1A) Accord (MPZA.), Prelude (MP1A.) And Acura 2.2CL (A6VA) selected Repair kit for gaskets and seals - # 380002E.

Repair kit for gaskets and seals No. 380002G (MPZA, B7VA, B7XA, M7ZA, B7YA, B7TA) is completed for powerful boxes Acura 3.0 CL M7ZA (96-99). Also fits Accord V6 (B7XA 98-02) and Odyssey 99-2001 with B7YAB7TA boxes.

More rare Overols for the rest of the 4-speed Honda / Acura automatic gearboxes, search under the number (see the name of the automatic transmission in the description of the kit) - 380002.

Selection of clutches

With each overhaul, the clutch clutches are changed with a set 380003 or separately - 380100 and steel discs with the whole set - 380004.

The most complete repair kit for clutches and steel discs with a spacer set - Masterkit № 380007 .

Honda's clutches are simultaneously unified (2-3 popular types are used in most clutch packages and on most machines - on right) and are very individual (a huge variety of modifications of automatic transmissions of a small batch with a couple of their own, differing clutches).

Therefore, all clutch numbers are collected under one number (380100 - press the number on the orange background to find your clutch) and are selected according to three parameters: diameter (outer), thickness and number of teeth.

Honda clutches live for a very long time, but after the development of a huge resource for the clutches (over 300 tkm) or soaked in burnt oil, the manufacturer recommends replacing them with the whole set, even if, upon external examination, the old linings look not yet completely worn out. They have absorbed burnt oil and significantly reduced their grip and heat transfer characteristics, which leads to uncomfortable jerks when shifting and unnecessary dynamic loads on worn gearbox components. Friction clutch wear is usually caused by oil starvation, so it is recommended that all age Honda keep track of the oil level and quality.

Basic Honda clutch No. 380100BD - has characteristics: [38Tx1,9x116x81,8] where the description means:

1.9 mm - thickness,

116 mm external diameter clutch, and

81.8 mm interior diameter of the counter steel disk.

Change worn out switching solenoids-electric regulators: - No. 380423A (line pressure)

Clutch lock solenoid 380425B and also popular in replacement:

- clutch lock solenoid # 380425D.

Solenoids have in their design a replaceable anodized hydraulic plate element, which is primarily subject to wear. Changes after runs for 200 tkm. Working in dirty and overheated oil reduces its resource significantly.

- It is worth checking the condition of the most popular bearings in replacement, highlighted in the Catalog ( left ) in orange.

- Change the developed valve body regulators (380924).

To identify the necessary spare parts for repair - use the corresponding page of the online store (M4TA - for example) the "Repair kits" section. For the exact order you need the VIN code of the car.

The current price and availability can be found by clicking on the part number.

In the event of a major overhaul, the gearbox is removed from the vehicle. At this stage, the mechanic carefully examines the condition of all systems serving the gearbox, power unit mounting supports, etc.

After dismantling from the car, the automatic transmission goes to the overhaul area. It should be noted that on this site, as well as on all previous ones, experienced craftsmen who have a higher technical education (engineering and physical) work. Here, the Honda srv automatic transmission is repaired, and after washing and drying all parts, their fault detection is carried out, i.e. the possibility of further use of each part or the need for its replacement is determined.

If desired, any customer can be present both during the disassembly of the gearbox and during the fault detection of its parts. At the end of this procedure, a list of replacement parts is drawn up, which is then necessarily agreed with the customer. It should be especially noted that during a major overhaul, it is necessary, regardless of the state of the automatic transmission, to replace all seals and gaskets. The use of original spare parts only from manufacturers of gearboxes increases the service life of a repaired Honda CR-V automatic transmission, but leads to a significant increase in the cost of spare parts. To achieve the most optimal combination of price-quality ratio allows the use of aftermarket parts, i.e. companies specializing in the production of spare parts for automatic transmissions.

Installation is carried out taking into account all technical requirements. At this stage, the failed mounting elements and auxiliary transmission service systems are replaced. In addition, during installation, preliminary adjustments are made to the elements of the external part of the control system.

Output diagnostics and car break-in.They are carried out using the same techniques as the entrance diagnostics. In addition, all previously existing fault codes are erased from the memory of the control unit.

If you need a very urgent answer, it is best to call. Ask a Question

In the production of their automatic transmissions, Japanese engineers first of all took into account reliability indicators. That is why automatic transmissions from Honda are distinguished by increased reliability and durability. One of the features of the M4TA four-speed automatic transmission, which was introduced in 1997, is the absence of planetary gears.

The advantage of such a technological solution is improved reliability indicators. It should be noted that such gearboxes are bulky in size, so they are somewhat more difficult to repair. The automatic transmission M4TA was installed on the Honda Civic, Odyssey, Prelude, Accord, CRV crossover. The maximum engine displacement with which this transmission could be installed is 2.4 liters.

As mentioned above, the M4TA automatic transmission is more reliable. The car owner only needs to regularly change the oil along with the filter elements. It is necessary to use high-quality original transmission oil, which will protect the bushings and clutches from wear.

The need for major repairs in most cases arises with a mileage of 300,000 kilometers or more. At the same time, it should be noted that with improper operation of the gearbox and aggressive driving, frequent breakdowns are possible, which forces overhaul with a mileage of 100,000 kilometers and even earlier. That is why it should be noted that this gearbox is primarily intended for use in urban environments.

Of the common breakdowns, we can single out problems with oil seals and rubberized gaskets. In the conditions of domestic winters, rubberized gaskets can quickly deteriorate, which in turn causes oil leaks. In this case, it is necessary to replace the rubberized gaskets and oil seals. These repairs are difficult to carry out due to the large dimensions of the gearbox. Dismantling the pallet is a certain difficulty and can be performed exclusively at a service center. When carrying out a major overhaul, the condition of the hydraulic plate is inspected, the clutches and drums are replaced. In some cases, it is required to change a burnt clutch. In general, this gearbox leaves a positive impression of itself, it is distinguished by its reliability and maintainability.

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When reassembling, according to the manual, it is necessary to put a new ATP guide cap, although the old one was like. Remove from the box the right drive shaft complete with CV joints, and the left one from the intermediate shaft. Lubricate all parts with ATP. Remove the shift lever cover from the bottom of the box, put it in “neutral”. We also disassemble the body of the GT blocking valves and the pressure regulator layer by layer, in the process we remove and wash the ATP guide plate. Hydromozg - continuation And under it I used a hammer during installation - gently tapping on the oil seal in a circle, the most tedious thing is to drive the first millimeters with the whole circle. Exactly 7 hours were spent on dismantling.

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An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box,
• disassembly of the box,
• complete set with spare parts,
• assembly (installation),
• installation on a car,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work with, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.

It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks when driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.

If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

General scheme of diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil,
• check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on a car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Defective transformer. This includes:
   • breaks in the splines of the wires,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main blocking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston oil seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.

It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
4. We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
6. We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
8. We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. We replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly takes place upside-down.

There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely.The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.

Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy, but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice car enthusiasts believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.