Changing the oil in the Mitsubishi ACH CVT variator - Duration: 7 Repair of the Mitsubishi V4A51 automatic transmission part 2 - Duration: 6 How do you kill the automatic transmission, with your own hands - Duration: AkerMehanik 1 viewing.
repair of automatic transmission f4a mitsubishi p1. Do-it-yourself Opel Vivaro re-equipment. Trunk lid trim Skoda Octavia tour.
Starting and compressing the 4G93 engine | AK MITSUBISHI RVR repair of automatic transmission f4a mitsubishi p1. Mitsubishi RVR hydroblog repair (galand).
Oh yes, all these masters do not like to read anything - this is duty and a lot of bukaf and read the manual when there is nothing to read or everything is already broken…. As for the fact that they do not bear any guarantee for their work, I was convinced personally. And the address, do not tell me where the box was repaired, otherwise I already broke my head who to turn to for repairing the torque converter. And about the plaintive groans, you filter it!
Please login or register. Did not receive your activation email? Automatic transmission when overdrive is on - slips. Biysk Altai My car: The car starts moving and then it takes off as speed. Shariot Grandis - engine: Do a self-diagnosis, and it will be clear there. What automatic transmission gears work?
In general, it is very similar to a brake band. Nikolay 45 years old Location: Yes, everything is off with it off. So all the same, removal and repair? Torque converter lock-up system malfunction - Torque converter lock-up system pressure - Torque converter lock-up solenoid valve - Automatic transmission ECU malfunction So where to start? Put a donut on the block, and you can ride without it, the computer also works, without it there would be only 3rd gear.
I reset the errors, drove a little without turning on the OD, error 54 came out Connector of the sensors or the speed sensors themselves, where can I see them and how to check?
Slipping of the extreme clutch who knows which thread and where to order? Forced downshift brake slippage. Yes, they work out fine, I will look at the wiring, I will open the ECU. I just think if 4 is already skidding, you still can't do without a replacement. And the filter should probably be changed.
The automatic transmission Mitsubishi KM175 - 177 is designed for use on mid-size Hyundai and Mitsubishi vehicles. Subsequently, this modification of the transmission was used on Dodge cars.
The reliability of the Japanese automatic transmission is beyond doubt. It is unpretentious to use and does not require frequent oil changes. So, for example, the oil change interval in the transmission is 70,000 kilometers. Of the typical breakdowns, we note the problems with the solenoid that can occur with a mileage of 200,000 kilometers. In some cases, replacement of oil seals is required, which begin to leak, which indicates a lot of wear and the need to check the engine and gearbox.
At the same time, it must be said that repair work is a certain difficulty.It is not possible to execute them on your own. Therefore, if repairs are necessary, we recommend contacting only specialized service centers. Repair work is carried out using special kits, which makes it possible to simplify and improve the quality of the restoration measures carried out. Capital repair Automatic transmission KM175 - 177 produced with a mileage of more than 300,000 kilometers.
It is quite expensive to carry out major repairs, so it is quite reasonable that the owners of cars with this automatic transmission often resort to buying a contract unit.
ATTENTION! This text does not carry any important information on automatic transmission repair, there are no diagrams, advice on what and how to do. There is a lot of sensible text, almost no specifics. You won't find anything particularly useful here. This is just the author's reasoning on the feasibility of repairing an automatic transmission with his own hands and his opinion on the approach to this matter.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION F4A232 MITSUBISHI IS CONSIDERED. With other boxes, the situation may be completely different. So. After installing the contract automatic transmission, instead of the broken one, the previous box remains on the hands. Naturally dead. ALL OPTIONS IMPLY THAT YOU HAVE A WORKING BOX ON YOUR CAR AND THERE IS A SECOND INOPERATIVE STATE, AVAILABILITY, THE ABSENCE OF WHICH IS NOT CRITICAL FOR YOU.
2. Throw away, hand over for scrap. Well, everything is clear. Out of sight and out of sight, so to speak, maybe even 500 rubles will be given.
3.Submit for analysis. Here, how lucky, maybe someone needs it (they say it is quite scarce), or maybe no one will take it. And if they do, then most likely at the price of scrap metal.
4. Disassemble for spare parts for the installed box. It's not a bad option, you can save money in the future if the breakdown is not identical in both, they will turn out to be interchangeable and someone will take the bulkhead of two boxes at once to assemble one of them ... It is unlikely that you will be given a guarantee for such a repair, but they will definitely take money. And most likely the same as during a normal repair of such an automatic transmission
5. To give a dead automatic transmission for restoration / repair in service. It already makes sense. If not for one but. The repair price is
10,000 rubles or more for work, not including spare parts. And these same spare parts can be recruited from 5 to 25 thousand. With an average price of a contract automatic transmission of such a model of 20 thousand rubles, the option can be considered not profitable. A separate word about the guarantee. The warranty period will be calculated from the moment the box is handed over to you. And this means that by the probable moment of breakdown of the automatic transmission installed in you, the guarantee for the restored one will probably end and you may be left with two non-working boxes and double the cost of repairing them, or even a third will have to be bought. If the warranty is calculated from the moment the automatic transmission was installed (mileage warranty), then the warranty is given only when installed in the service of the company that repaired it. if you bet with someone else, you will lose the guarantee. So you should immediately put the repaired box. At the same time, having paid to the service also for the installation. ... They will not store it for you "on demand" at home, and even if they do, after a year the warranty terms will expire. Take it to lie with you, until the installed one breaks down - you lose the warranty. (Who knows what you were doing there with her while she was lying with you!)
6.Repair of automatic transmission from “craftsmen”. By craftsmen, I mean local handymen, straighteners, minders from garages, who, for 2 rubles, “will sort out everything better than in the service”. I don’t deny that it really happens. But you need to know places and people. And once at a time it is not necessary. In general, the same as option 5, only the price is lower, and there is no guarantee under any circumstances.
7. Repair the automatic transmission yourself. The most hardcore and interesting, in my opinion, option.Of course, he means a lot of conditions, the first and most important of them is the desire to do it. If there is a desire, there will be opportunities, I think so. Of course, there is no guarantee of the success of this business, especially if you have not been involved in automatic transmission repairs before. But the costs are also minimal (we will not take into account that your money or time is more dear to you). Again, if the repair did not work out, you can always use options 1 to 4, and if you haven't broken anything / lost anything, then 5.6. In fact, you only spend money on spare parts if you have: Free time. A place for renovation work. Brain. Arms. Tools It also requires analytical and logical thinking to make the right use of time, place, brains, hands and tools :-).
The conditions have been met and I'm thinking about doing this when they put a working box on me, and the dead one will be removed from the car. And if someone is interested in the opportunity to fix the automatic transmission himself, here's where I'm going to start:
1. The first thing to do is to understand how the automatic transmission works. There is a myth that the automatic transmission is supposedly such a gravitational machine, in which only aliens in the service and the Japanese at the factory understand and then only because they have been studying it all their lives. I don't think so. Yes, it is more complicated in structure than the manual transmission, but this is more likely because it is arranged differently, and not at all because of some kind of secret space technologies. It is not the gods who burn the pots. For those interested, here is a link to an informative video review about the device of a 3-speed automatic transmission from Toyota.
VIDEO
2. Find as much information as possible about a specific automatic transmission (in my case, F4A232). For my box, I found a wonderful book, which is called "Repair manual for automatic transmissions Mitsubishi F3A2, F4A2, F4A3, W4A3, F4AC1 for front-wheel drive vehicles." I have one in electronic form in Russian and English.
3. Find a supplier of spare parts. There are many options, the most correct and economical, it seems to me, is to diagnose a malfunction, check with the diagram and select the number of the desired part / spare part from the catalog of the existential. Well, having collected the articles in a pile, already collect your repair kit for the box. And order where it is more convenient and cheaper for you. Otherwise, you run the risk of buying spare parts that do not suit you or do not need, which means that you will be wasted.
4. Be able to consult. In an unfamiliar business, situations always arise when you do not know what to do and how. Here you cannot do without the help of experienced people. Ideally, it would be nice to have a familiar automatic transmission repairman, but I don't have one. I will use the internet and its many car communities. I also have acquaintances of turners, straighteners, mechanics and all sorts of non-profile specialists in cars.
5. You need to start doing something. It is very important.
And at the end, a set of links, just like that, for "inspiration": my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/64 is a very useful site for those who decided to repair automatic transmissions with their own hands, diagrams, manuals, etc. repair of automatic transmission Nissan Primera P10 1991 in garage conditions - Overhaul of automatic transmission Town Ace my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3141/forum/150825 DIY automatic transmission repair. (Audi A6 with gearbox 01N)
Well, something like this. There was a lot of text. If you have read it, thank you. I look forward to your comments and advice. If you haven't read it, thanks anyway for stopping by.
Well, as always, this device is once again near death (it began to drive the reverse gear and, as if it slips inside and then only clings and drives). Marking F4A222MPF1 I found a symbol in a symbol with the same marking on the ads. But, the ad says that it is from MMC RVR 4G63, and I have MMC EMERAUDE 6A12
Will it fit? I tried to break through on exist. He gives out that the body, insides, etc. were put on both of these machines and not only, but the whole assault rifle in the assembly does not beat, as if the assembly is like this only for me and that's it.
At the expense of the "basin", why is it not justified to offend the car? if you treat it like a "basin", then the car will behave just like that. the old korobas was also F4A22-2? changed when, what liquid was poured in? Did you look at the level? But is there confidence in 100% serviceability of the unit, before installation on your car? and changed with a donut (torque converter)?
I have Emer, the device is decent and cute, there are drawbacks, of course, the years take their toll. I bought it a year ago.I bought it with a dead machine, I found a machine gun during disassembly, from which Mitsuha he was, they did not know at disassembly, contract and that's it, you want it, take it. if you don't want to, get out. I took it, the korobas was with my own donut, stuck it in, it seemed to get along with my brains normally, they ran it for a couple of weeks in a generous mode, and it took root normally. I changed the oil with the filter in the spring, I’ll finish it until spring, I’ll repeat the operation.
Let's take a look at the main features of Misubishi automatic transmissions.
All of the following applies ONLY to hydromechanical automatic transmissions and has nothing to do with variators!
Let's start with the nuances. Many off-road vehicles of the Pajero and Delica families are equipped with automatic transmissions from Toyota. And, therefore, the problems with these units seem to be at the wrong address. Again, the Toyota concern has such a huge annual production of cars that it seems to have to learn how to make “automatic machines”, like everything else. Therefore, when discussing automatic transmissions, we, first of all, will have in mind sedans, "automatic" machines for which are developed in "Mitsubishi" itself.
It is impossible to say that these are bad “automata”. The Japanese, as the experience of all our auto repair shows, in general, rarely do anything bad. But there are subtleties in their operation.
The first is that the level of fluid (or oil, which is not entirely accurate) in an automatic transmission is measured only in the "N" selector position. If you do this in the "P" position, which is allowed by the manuals for boxes from other companies, the level will be overestimated. There, inside this "automaton", at the "P" position, a small fountain "beats", due to which this increased level is obtained.
The second feature of Mitsubishi “automatic machines” is the presence of a one-time replaceable filter in it. Almost like a Mercedes. This, in turn, eliminates all sorts of "express replacements" of dextron in five minutes. True, this "express - replacement" can, under certain conditions, have a very negative effect on the box of any company. On Mitsubishi cars, changing the fluid also means changing the filter, and for this, you yourself understand, you need to dismantle at least the “machine” sump. Good or bad is hard to say. Probably good after all. At least most modern automatic transmissions of various companies (including, as already mentioned, Mercedes) also have a replaceable filter. Well, for our man, of course, it would be better to have a reusable filter. He took it off, washed the mesh in kerosene and can be reinstalled. There is no need to spend money on a new filter.
Owners of "Mitsubishi", if they are going to comply with the requirements of Japanese operating manuals, will have to buy a new filter when changing the fluid in the "machine". One consolation is that if the company provides for the replacement of dextron in 15 - 20 thousand, then the filter after 30 thousand kilometers, which is not very burdensome.
The third peculiarity of Mitsubishi automatic transmissions is that their "lockups" are destroyed quite often and for no apparent reason. "Lock up" is such a thing that locks the fluid coupling on the commands of the control unit. In order, so to speak, to increase the efficiency of the automatic transmission. After blocking the hydraulic coupling, the engine and the transmission are directly connected, and there are no longer any losses for heating the fluid in the fluid coupling. When this destruction occurs, you may not notice anything in the behavior of the machine. But the lining material of this "lockup" is sprinkled, clogging not only the filter, but also the cooling radiator of the automatic transmission and its control valves. And only then it causes various malfunctions in the box itself. Very observant drivers may notice that the shifts have become "smeared". Then, most likely, the fourth gear will disappear. Which, however, can disappear by itself.
This is the fourth feature of Mitsubishi machines.True, this defect is repaired quite quickly and even without removing the entire box. But you still have to fork out for new disks. Well, for a book on installing these disks. If your box has collapsed ("sprinkled") "lockup", then you cannot avoid serious repairs in a specialized auto workshop. Although often the owners prefer not to repair their failed automatic transmission, but to buy another, used one. This is usually much cheaper.
Well, and, perhaps, the last thing that the specialists of the Tekhnokhim firm, with whom we consulted, note. This is the so-called "rainy path" effect. It consists in the fact that when driving intensively on wet or slippery asphalt, when the wheels alternately hit either a dry area or a slippery one, the "ears" of the brake belts break off in the automatic transmission. And the 2nd and 4th gears disappear in the car.
In general, all the masters noted that the automatic transmissions of Mitsubishi are more demanding on the quality of the liquid (oil) poured into them. If an ordinary Toyota will manage without any problems ATF from Shell or Mobil, then Mitsubishi boxes require Mitsubishi SP3 recommended by ATF. Well, or "TransmaxZ" by "Castrol". Which is very expensive (a liter for about $ 15-20). This feature is caused by the fact that Mitsubishi gearboxes are more thermally loaded, which leads to dilution of conventional ATFs and they no longer properly lubricate the bearings.
So gentlemen, lucky ones, owners of various Mitsubishi, please drive more carefully. Your machines will be more intact.
Not original
Added after 30 minutes I bought a rear crankshaft oil seal and replaced it, two 4 liter canisters. Automatic-Getriebeol ATF Type J2 / S Fluid, adhesive sealant for assembling automatic transmissions Silicone Permatex Black
Sent from my SM-A520F via Tapatalk
And yes krasava, at least one real person posted a photo and did a great job 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍respect and respect
Submitted from my GT-P5200 via Tapatalk
Spare parts came and I started assembling the automatic transmission. Spent garage quartzization for sterility, dressed white coat, latex surgical gloves
and started assembling. Replaced all gaskets, oil seals, friction and steel discs. After 3 hours, the automatic transmission was assembled and ready for installation. It remains to install it on the car and carry out sea trials. Hopefully another 100,000 km. will run.
An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.
Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:
diagnostics,
dismantling the box,
disassembly of the box,
complete set with spare parts,
assembly (installation),
installation on a car,
diagnostics after repair.
To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, time to work, patience, and perseverance.
All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.
It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems.It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.
Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.
Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks while driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.
Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.
All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in
electronic control system,
mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.
If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.
If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.
In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.
General scheme of diagnostic procedures:
check the oil,
check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
check the box on a car without movement,
check the automatic transmission in motion,
check the pressure inside the control system.
If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:
input sensors,
electronic control unit,
executive devices of the control system,
violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.
The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.
These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:
Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
Defective transformer. This includes:
breaks in the splines of the wires,
mechanical destruction of the blades,
overrunning clutch,
wear of the main blocking clutch,
depressurization of the piston oil seal.
Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.
If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.
You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box.Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:
disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
remove and move the gearbox;
assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.
Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.
All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.
It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:
We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
We replace rings and friction bolts.
We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.
Assembly takes place upside-down.
There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.
If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:
When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.
Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.
Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities.Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.
VIDEO
This manual for determining the type of automatic transmission is compiled on the basis of various tables and manuals of automatic transmissions collected around the world. And it may contain inaccuracies.
On each page Automatic transmission there is a more detailed ( green underneath ) a list of all cars on which this automatic transmission was installed.
On the one hand, the owners of Mitsubishi cars can be envied. Which jeep's interior resembles a boss's office more than that of a Pajero? What other front-wheel drive sedan, with the exception of the Diamante, should be safely attributed to the prestigious class? And even the run-of-the-mill RVR is much more comfortable to sit in than the luxurious Crown. Everything about them is good, except for.
Ask any auto mechanic if they enjoy working with the 4d-56? And with 6g-73? I do not think that you will be able to find enthusiasts from auto repair who, in the same 6g-73, would have liked, for example, the procedure for replacing spark plugs. In other words, Mitsubishi owners were so-so lucky with engines. What about automatic transmissions? It's a little more difficult here.
The fact is that many jeeps of the Pajero and Delica families are equipped with automatic transmissions from Toyota. Consequently, the difficulties with these units seem to be at the wrong address. For this reason, when discussing automatic transmissions, we will first of all have in mind sedans, "automatic" machines for which are developed in Mitsubishi itself. It is impossible to say that these are bad “automata”. However, there are subtleties in their use.
I-e - the fact that the level of fluid (or oil, which is not entirely accurate) in a self-acting gearbox is measured only in the selector position N. If you do this in position P, which is allowed by the manuals for boxes of other companies, the level will be too high. Inside such a "machine" at position P, a small fountain beats, due to which this increased level is obtained. The second feature of Mitsubishi “automatic machines” is the presence of a disposable replaceable filter in them. This, in turn, eliminates any "express replacements" of dextron in 5 minutes. Here, changing the fluid also means changing the filter.
The third peculiarity of Mitsubishi self-acting gearboxes is that they quite often and for no apparent reason destroy "locks". (Lock up is such a thing that, at the command of the control unit, locks the fluid coupling in order, as they say, to increase the efficiency of the self-acting gearbox: after the fluid coupling is locked, a direct connection is made between the motor and the transmission, and there are no losses for heating the fluid in the fluid coupling aldeady no). When this destruction occurs, you may not notice anything special about the behavior of the machine. However, the material of the lock pads crumbles at the same time, clogging not only the filter, but also the cooling radiator of the self-acting box and its control valves. Later, this causes various malfunctions in the box itself. At the same time, very observant drivers may notice that the shifts have become "smeared". Later, IV gear will most likely disappear. True, this defect is repaired soon enough and even without removing the entire box. However, it will still be necessary to fork out for new disks. If your box has collapsed ("crumbled") the lockup, then you cannot avoid serious repairs in a specialized auto repair shop.
Well, and, perhaps, the last - the so-called "rainy path" effect. When driving intensively on wet or slippery asphalt, when the wheels alternately hit either a dry area or a slippery one, the "ears" of the brake belts break off in the self-acting box. And the 2nd and 4th gears disappear in the car.
All masters note that Mitsubishi “automatic machines” are more demanding on the quality of the liquid poured into them. If an ordinary Toyota can manage ATF from Shell or Mobil without any problems, then Mitsubishi boxes require a Mitsubishi SP3 recommended by ATF, or Castrol's TRANSMAXZ, which is very expensive (a liter costs about $ 15-20).This feature is caused by the fact that Mitsubishi gearboxes are more thermally loaded, which leads to dilution of ordinary ATFs, and they cease to properly lubricate the bearings.
So, gentlemen, lucky ones, owners of different Mitsubishi, please drive neatly. All will be more intact "automata".
VIDEO
There is nothing super complicated in automatic transmission repair. It is worth trying to figure it out yourself if:
1. Guaranteed there is no service that can definitely do it. 2. You can do everything with German pedantry when disassembling and assembling. 3. There is a clean and bright place for neat work with the automatic transmission. 4. The presence of a book with a description of the automatic transmission is required. I would, for starters, take off the automatic transmission pan and see what is going on there from below. In this case, you do not lose anything (except for oil and gaskets), at the same time you will look at the filter and what is already in the pallet from the automatic transmission Maybe this will be all.
A good tool is imported torque wrenches, good heads that fit tightly on the bolts, a compressor with a moisture separator, a purge kit, I will adapt it for flushing parts with gasoline under pressure. No special tool is needed. A complete understanding of what part is needed for what (even before opening) is simply necessary, as well as the ability to correctly make a defect. It is unrealistic to repair the torque converter without the absence of a lathe and the ability to conduct a smooth, continuous weld without fistulas. Special literature can be found through the Internet Elsa, Mitchell and others.
Mitsubishi has been cooperating with the Korean carmaker Hyundai for a long time. Within the framework of this collaboration, many technical solutions have been created. The engineers of both firms worked closely, and the result of this partnership was the series of automatic transmissions F4A41, F4A42, and automatic transmission modifications.
The automatic transmission Hyundai-Mitsubishi of the F4A41 / 42 series was created in 1997 and has 4 gearshift steps. The boxes were installed on various models of Korean, Japanese, Chinese cars, and on representatives of the American car industry. Among the models that received such boxes are Hyundai Sonata, Santa Fe, Taxon, Kia Cerato, Mitsubishi Galant, Lancer, and others. Cars with an engine capacity of 1.3… 1.8 liters. received the F4A41 automatic transmission, and the reinforced F4A42 box was installed on more powerful engines from 1.6 to 2.8 liters.
The selector on the considered automatic transmissions is typical for "four-step". This is how the gear selector that was installed on Mitsubishi Galant cars with a 4-speed F4A42 gearbox looks like:
As already mentioned, the F4A42 automatic transmission is a reinforced version of the box. Strengthening consists in the difference in the number of clutch packs. As a result, the brake and clutch drums of the box are more capacious. In addition, in the version of the box * 42, the oil filter is brought out, which makes the box slightly easier to maintain. In this series, in terms of the applied technological solutions, one can feel the influence of the Chrysler concern, with which Mitsubishi was in close partnership.
A rather rare modification of the W4A42 automatic transmission for all-wheel drive cars was also developed and produced. In the Russian Federation, this box is most often found on popular cars of the Mitsubishi Lancer family.
In parallel, a series of automatic transmissions F4A51 and R4A51 was created, a distinctive feature of which is the ability to transmit more torque. These automatic transmissions have reinforced units, in addition, in the 2-brake braking package, the boxes have 4, additional, clutch.
Later, another version of this automatic transmission was created - F4A4B, which has many modifications. Here you can mention the decoding of the marking of the name of the box F4A4B and others from the series:
F - means automatic transmission for a front-wheel drive vehicle;
4 - indicates the number of transmission steps;
A - a sign that the box is automatic;
4B - designation of the box manufacturer, model and assembly sequence marker (respectively, 4x, 5x - denote other modifications that differ in torque and other nuances, for example, F4A51 gives more torque) .After these designations, an additional alphanumeric indicator may be indicated, indicating the motor , with which this box was used, and a specific car model. For example:
1R1Z - means that the box was installed on one and a half liter Lancers IX and X;
2J1Z - speaks of the "Diamant" model with a 2.5-liter engine;
46NZ for the Outlander, and so on.
Modifications of boxes have structural and dimensional changes that do not allow installing an automatic transmission of one model on a vehicle designed to work with another box: different box bells, differences in the dimensions of automatic transmission parts, etc. Despite this, many parts are interchangeable, which in some cases makes it easier box repair.
The declared resource of the automatic transmission data is about 250-300 thousand km. without breakdowns. However, the boxes have some design flaws that lead to the failure of individual components. In addition, time plays a role, the parts of the boxes wear out naturally. The most reliable part is considered to be an electrician: engineers have put an increased margin of safety in the electrical components of the automatic transmission, although the sensors of the box may break from time to time.
A common problem with boxes F4A41, F4A51 and modifications with decent mileage is planetary gear failure. This is a structurally weak gearbox assembly, which is characterized by spalling of the automatic transmission needle bearing. Together with him they refuse:
ring gear box;
rear planetary gear set.
Another common problem with boxes is the burning of 2nd Brake and Underdrive packages. This happens due to a breakdown of the automatic transmission valve plate. The solenoids and valves of the box gradually wear out, leading to oil starvation in the packages. Along the way, the automatic transmission torque converter also suffers.
Often, worn out, oil-starved automatic transmission valve bodies fail. There are modifications of these:
The input and output speed sensors "fly" in the boxes. The older the automatic transmission, the more likely it is to fail, especially if the transmission has not been properly maintained by the owner.
These boxes, with proper care, are highly reliable and are capable of "departing" up to 300 thousand kilometers, with timely replacement of oil, filters and other consumables. However, the automatic transmission may fail if:
do not follow the rules for operating the box - switch speeds and directions of movement too abruptly, without waiting for the machine to stop;
adhere to a sharp driving style;
use the car in extreme conditions, on difficult terrain, etc .;
fill in a box not recommended by the manufacturer, low-quality oil, use
for automatic transmissions, cheap consumables of poor quality;
do not pay attention to alarming symptoms ("kicks" of the automatic transmission, heating of the box, extraneous sounds).
There is an opinion, which is held by professionals in the field of auto repair, that Mitsubishi-Hyundai automatic transmissions are very demanding on transmission oil. The fluid in the automatic transmission must be of high quality: for example, unpretentious Toyota boxes are quite capable of transferring the filling of alternative ATFs from Mobil or Shell, then the recommended oil from the manufacturer should be used for the models in question. The reason for this selectivity is the high heat load of the boxes. The increased heat generation of the automatic transmission leads to the dilution of standard oils, which lose their lubricity. The proprietary fluid is specially designed with this feature of the boxes in mind.
An important factor, as mentioned earlier, is the natural wear and tear of automatic transmission parts. Time does not spare even the most reliable components, and after a certain mileage, the planetary gearbox mechanism, valve body, brake band, oil pump and other elements may need to be replaced simply because they have exhausted their technical resource.
If the box has failed or gives alarm signals (kicks when switching, deterioration of dynamics, etc.), it is necessary to diagnose the problem, find the faulty automatic transmission spare part and replace it. If the cause of the problem is only in the old oil, you can try to change it in the box yourself. In Russian conditions, it is recommended to do this every 50 thousand km. mileage.
More complex box breakdowns will require specialist intervention. For Mitsubishi automatic transmissions, special repair kits are produced.
Automatic transmission diagram from an official document:
Repair kit 362002 for boxes F4A41 / 42 from a set of seals and gaskets (also called OverhaulKit):
Universal set of clutches 326003B for replacing out of order:
In the documentation, you can find other articles of box spare parts that need to be replaced.
Video (click to play).
It is important to remember: careful use and timely maintenance are a guarantee of a long and flawless service life of the box. If the need for repairs has come, this should be done by a qualified auto service specialist with the necessary skills, knowledge and equipment.