In detail: do-it-yourself repair of automatic transmission nissan example p12 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
4-speed automatic transmission RL4F03A / V RE4F03A / B developed by a Japanese concern Jatco (owned in the 20th century by the Nisssan corporation with the participation of Mazda) in 1990 for front-wheel drive Nissan Primera with engines up to 2 liters (according to Jatko's classification - small & medium). Replaced the previous version RL4F02A with hydraulic control.
RL4F03A / V: L - hydraulic shift control. E - (RE4F03A) - electric, using solenoids.
4 (RL4F03A / V) - number of speeds.
F (RL4F03A / V) - front-wheel drive,
03 - class for transmitted torque. This family is called the “03rd Nissan”.
A (RL4F03A / V) - sub-modifications adapted for different cars, different requirements, later versions.
Since 2000, a new sub-modification of this 4-speed gearbox with reinforced packages and a new valve body has been installed even on some cars of the premium segment of Nissan (Maxima, Sentra) and Infiniti (I30 - I35, G20). But these cars in our repair are rare due to the fact that this automatic machine is too brooding for 3 liters, rare in our market and too reliably runs until the old age of the car.
In 1994, another design update was made, and in 2000, another re-release, which was named RE4F03B ... RE4F03A turned out to be quite successful in terms of price-reliability ratio and after 2000 they began to actively put it on the entire Nissan model range from Note, Almera and Tiida to Teana. Now this reliable and unpretentious family of automatic transmissions is still installed in most Nissan factories around the world.
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Video (click to play). |
Related to the design of the automatic transmission JF403.
Typical automatic transmission repair points
Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.
In each overhaul RE4F03A, a set of gaskets and seals No. 314002 is replaced, the rubber of which may still look good, but after 8-10 years of operation with overheating it can crack and break at any time, but much more important is the replacement of the rings, the wear of which affects the oil pressure in clutch packages. Recently, craftsmen have chosen Precision Repair Kit more often.
A metal filter with an open mesh No. 314010 is usually replaced during overhaul, and not blown out, since heavily neglected machines with burnt oil come to the repair.
Usually all clutches 314003 are also replaced, less often - burnt-out steel discs (set - 314004).
The brake band (up to 1999 - 314020) in 2000 was modified - 314020C (on right).
Long-term operation with worn out torque converter consumables leads to vibrations on the pump shaft, wear of the pump sleeve 314034, the stuffing box and then the pump itself - 314500. The pumps only have to be installed on the control unit.
Of the packages, the most often burned discs of the LowRev package are 314114 and 314134.
In every second overhaul, the Solenoid Block (No. 314420), which has exhausted its resource, is also changed (the resource of solenoids is measured by the number of on-off cycles - several hundred thousand and is reduced when working in a dirty oil environment and should be changed after 10-12 years, without waiting for sudden death on the road). And the problem with exhausted solenoids leads to an unpredictable lack of pressure in the clutch packs and, as a consequence, slipping of the clutches, burning oil, and then along the chain of all the other packs.
Since 2000, the RE4F03 solenoid set is its own - 315420B.
Hydraulic plates of modifications 93-99 years and after 99 have different sets of solenoids!
Then, when the computer began to use the slip of the blocking clutches - “Matic J“, Analogous to synthetic oils such as Dexron 6. The latest synthetic oils withstand modern oil temperatures (130-150º), and therefore it is impossible to downgrade the oil when changing. Later, following the competitors (Toyota WS), they switched to the next generation of synthetics - “Matic S”, which has a reduced viscosity when working in a cold state. To the oil level, this unkillable box is not very whimsical, but it loves clean oil, especially when the wear of the rings and bushings is 10-30 hundredths of a mm higher than the factory values.
The hardware is very reliable. Except for oil leaks from under the pump oil seal (much later than 150 tkm), which usually indicates wear of the torque converter consumables and the pump bushing, otherwise this box can be considered unkillable. Provided that the oil is changed on time. It is recommended to change the oil not by time, but by transparency.
In 2007, a new sub-modification of RE4F03 was released for the Nissan Tiida with a modified pallet. The pan gasket (# 314300) is different for these.
Of the “iron” in an age-related automatic transmission that has survived a long “oil starvation” sometimes fail (in order):
- Drum (Reverse) No. 314556 with a piston, surface wear by a brake band - 314020.
All "hardware" is most often ordered second-hand, since the cost of the used device is much lower than the original, and the quality of Jatko's metal is usually good.
- Drum (Forward) 314554. General wear of surfaces, bushings.
- In very old cars with the maximum engine for this family, the rear planetary row 314584A fails.
If you monitor the purity of the oil in this automatic transmission and change the solenoids in time, then it will run as long as the car itself. The repair statistics are complicated by the fact that the box runs for a long time and the owners often prefer to shoot a “sick horse” than to call a veterinarian to him. Although owners with skillful hands successfully restore this unpretentious, uncomplicated and hard-to-kill box.
Price (retail), availability or delivery time can be viewed and ordered in the online store by clicking on the part number on an orange background.
On which cars this automatic transmission family was installed:
Story: Fishing trip, vydovy nissanchik, mud. They kneaded for a long time and thoughtfully. At some point, the box refused to quickly turn the wheels back. Attempts were made, but sluggish, and at increased engine speeds. As a result, the car was dug up and pulled out, but even after the box cooled down, the reverse gear did not appear. It was, but only on a flat road and it feels like the box is skidding a lot Everything was normal with the movement.
Theory: During the excavations and the subsequent trip, that just did not think. The most suitable option is overheating of the automatic transmission fluid. However, this option assumes, in the same way, the axle boxes of the box when moving forward. And of course, the thought came to me about the automatic transmission breaking down, well, you never know everything that can break down.
Repair Attempt 1: Replacing the automatic transmission fluid. It gave a result - the reverse gear became more pronounced, but again only on a flat surface and if you press the accelerator pedal. In general, replacing the slurry did not give anything.
Search in manuals and forums: All searches, as before, led to the conclusion that the reverse friction discs had become unusable as a result of oil overheating or other factors (looking ahead - others).
A decision was made to extract, disassemble, troubleshoot and repair the automatic transmission right in the garage.
Organized with a relative, and flooded, the car on a half-meter bakulka with a jack. The garage is equipped with a pit, so it rushed: there is no photo, but in short, everything is according to the manual, all the hoses, all the wires were disconnected, from below everything that could be disconnected, the cardan shaft and everything in general. There is no hook in the garage, so we thought that we would wake up and put the box with our hands, we thought that it weighs 50 kilograms, maximum 70, and together we can definitely remove and short-circuit it back. They intended to shoot on a jack and a board across the pit.Oh, I'll tell you, shooting without hanging is still a pleasure. They squirmed for a long time, hard, the box was lowered on a jack, initially it was held on pillows and a pair of engine bolts.
After they jacked up the engine and the box with two jacks, they began to unscrew the pillow and the box from the engine (the flywheel was unscrewed in advance, there are technological holes, in general - all according to the manual ). They unscrewed, but no, something prevents the box from sinking into them - according to the manual, it is simply taken out downward. as a result, they found 2 more bolts for the engine and 1 motor - gearbox. Unscrewed - somehow it is all the same bad, probably stuck - and indeed, and on the guides it sits to the engine. Tugged. the box is unstuck, removed from the guides, we tensed. We pulled ourselves together, compensated for the box with the weight of the jack and began to lower it. It was a huge mistake not to remove the drives from the hubs - although they were not in the boxes, they interfered and resisted and did not allow the box to be lowered and there was nowhere to put them. We tried to unscrew the hub nut in the process, it did not work, one - not from the hand. As a result, one of us held the box on a jack, the second unscrewed the hub from the rack so that by tilting the steering knuckle we could remove the drive to the side so that it would not interfere.
The drive was removed only one, the second was supposed to be pulled out in the process. Yeah. They unscrewed one rack (the steering tips were already dismantled), tilted the entire hub and removed the entire drive from the box, then again the descent and recess of the second drive, the second sat deep in the box and to take it out of the box, the entire box was also moved towards the arch. In general, they barely took out a long drive, a box on a piece of wood, and it weighs a lot together with a gearbox.
Then they carried the box to the street and, with the help of a mini-washer, washed it at least a little, plugging the holes with rags. Then a box on a specially prepared table for parsing.
The manual assumes 88 points for disassembling the box, but what we need is a large-knot disassembly to gears with clutches. At first, they did not start according to the manual, in the end it turned out to be the wrong side, only one bolt was broken off (I did not want to unscrew, then the wrong side was grabbed by a couple of bolts until the moment of collection)
Unscrewed the oil pan, photo from this moment. Some comments along the way of the photos:
Bulkhead box RE4F03B on Nissan Primera P12.
Bulkhead indications: almost complete absence of reverse gear. The car moved forward without comment.
Foreword.
The defect appeared gradually. Slippage appeared when moving back. At first, they were not very strong, then I could no longer move the 5 cm high tubercle.
The installation option is contractual, i.e. bu boxes: there were options from 10 tr (with Wingroad) to 40 tr with Examples. The state of the boxes is naturally unknown.
Repair option on the side: The amount is about 50 tr and there is no confidence in those who will do it.
As a result, I came to the conclusion that I have to do it myself. this is an acceptable budget and
the result will be a box that is almost new in terms of wearing parts.
The final straw for the decision was the ism report. those. Sergei.
Part 1. Removal.
Material support of the 1st stage:
Manual. Chapter REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION.
Tools: keys, heads, including heads for 18 and 16.
Lift, well, or a pit.
Part 2. Disassembly.
Material support of the 2nd stage:
- Manual. Chapter DISASSEMBLY.
- Tools: The collar is large, the collar is small. Heads 12 and 10, as well as wrenches for dismantling the oil cooling pipes. Flat-blade screwdrivers.
–The table is large on which oil can be poured. Rags, kerosene (5 l) and preferably a spray gun into which we pour kerosene and rinse everything.
-Compressor.
1. We measure the distance from the flange of the box to the torque converter. We write it down and compare it with the manual.
2. Remove the torque converter and put it with the hole down for a couple of days in a ditch.
3. Remove the mode switch (PNP-switch).
4. Close the connectors.
5. We wash the box from dirt, otherwise it will later serve as a source of dirt.
6.We unscrew the pallet bolts and put them in a separate box (the manual insists on replacing them, I did not change)
7. Remove the pallet.
The magnets are in sawdust, there are no pieces of iron in the pallet.
8. We wash the pallet and magnets, wipe and put in a clean bag.
View of the inside of a box without a pallet.
9. Remove the latch from the external connector and push it inward.
The picture shows the solenoids. The line pressure solenoid stands alone (left side of figure). A red wire with white stripes goes to it.
10. Remove the Control Valve Assembly or brains. The manual has a very good drawing of which bolts to unscrew. We put them separately. Having a specification is impossible to confuse. A = 40 mm (5 pcs.), B = 33 mm (6 pcs.), C = 43.5 mm (2 pcs.) See page AT-515.
It is slightly visible in the photo that the filter is clogged.
11. Remove the bell, take out the differential and remove it if there are no questions to it (as in my case).
12. Remove the oil pump. Then we will revise it.
13. Remove the brake band. I measured the distance of the adjustment bolt. 14mm. As it turned out later, the adjustment of this unit is made by tightening the bolt (Anchor end pin) with a torque of 3.5-5.8 Nm and then unscrewing it by 2.5 ± 0.125 turns. The nut is locked with a torque of 31-36 Nm. See page AT520. We insert a bracket into the holes of the brake band (there is a drawing in the manual) in order to prevent it from straightening.
Next, we sequentially disassemble the box. We add the nodes in the order of parsing. Be careful not to drop the thrust bearings.
Retaining rings are easy to remove. Pry on with a screwdriver and carefully take out.
So, we reach the very bottom of the box. And we see the hero of the occasion. The reverse brake package is worn out nowhere else. Only the last (closest to us) friction plate remained alive (if I may say so, since there are only traces of friction material). All other clutches and all the hardware are just in the trash.
Reverse brake piston. Wear is visible on one of the edges. The D-ring (inner) was destroyed, which was the cause of the breakdown.
Place of installation of the reverse gear brake (the very depths of the box).
Part 3. Troubleshooting / disassembly of units / assembly.
Material support of the 3rd stage:
- Manual. REPAIR FOR COMPONENT PARTS, ASSEMBLY, SERVICE DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (SDS).
- Compressor.
- Tool see part 2.
- Torque wrench 5-25 Nm.
- Lint-free rags.
- ATF (any at this stage).
- Petroleum jelly (well, in our opinion - petroleum jelly).
We proceed to troubleshooting the box assemblies. We disassemble all the clutch assemblies one by one (or as they are called in the manual, the clutch, i.e. clutch). They are disassembled quite simply (remove the retaining rings).
The result of the troubleshooting: All the clutches, except for the reverse gear, are in satisfactory condition (wear of some 0.1 mm on the clutch) in the tolerance, of course, but if you add it up, it turns out not so little.
Solution: Replacing all clutches of all gears + iron on the reverse gear brake + a new piston.
Purchased spare parts:
1. Precision Gasket Kit.
2. Friction clutches (I didn't take the kit, didn't like it, pure china and, as it seemed to me, there were differences in size.) They were assembled separately.
3. Used piston.
4. Brake band (did not install later, because the native is better).
5. Iron (driven plate) brake reverse gear.
A little about the order of work. I started disassembling clutch packs after purchasing spare parts. I advise. You will definitely not confuse anything, and there are a lot of details.
By assembly. Large packages are easy to assemble, but small ones, for example High clutch, are difficult to assemble without tools. But you can.
We disassemble, wash, change all rubber bands and friction clutches and assemble.
I advise you to follow the manual clearly and point by point. Written and drawn clearly enough. Be careful with the installation of the spring rings (dish plate). Install incorrectly - you will not reassemble the assembly. Be sure to control the gaps.
Oil pump. In admission. We wash, change the gaskets, collect.
Brake band drive. A compressor is needed for parsing. We wash, change the seals, collect. It was fun here. They were assembled by installing the box on a lathe with a retractable quill of the tailstock J. Otherwise, I did not succeed. The effort is good. The puller was slipping.
So. All packages are sorted out, the brake band drive is assembled.
We replace the oil seals of the drive shafts.
Brainwash J
Carefully according to the manual (p. АТ439-АТ453). Condition before flushing:
In general, quite satisfactory, but ... Pay attention to the filter. It is not so easy to rinse it, but it is necessary. Carefully, it is possible in several stages and it is better in the container.
Carefully with balls and springs. The above kit includes balls. The places of their installation in the manual are indicated exactly.
The gaskets were so well adhered to the metal plates that I decided not to change them, because it is very difficult to remove them from the plates, you can scratch the plates.
As for the valves. Maybe I was wrong, but I could not get everything. Accordingly, their performance and flushing of the spray gun with 6 atm kerosene were tested. Everything moves and works. Be sure to check the spring of the 1-2 switching accumulator.
Spring sizes are listed in the specifications on the last pages of the (SDS) section. We check carefully.
We collect.
There are several points here. It is necessary to pay attention to the installation of bolts F. They are installed in reverse. I rearranged it later. And it's good, because overtightened when installing the solenoid block.
Tighten the bolts only with a torque wrench to specification.
One more point. Check the line pressure solenoid for mesh cleanliness and condition.
Ring all solenoids. The resistance values are indicated in the specification. Put new rubber bands on the solenoids.
Brains are collected.
I did not remove the back cover. In my case, I did not see much sense. If there are doubts about the bearings, then it is better to dismantle and defect this unit.
The shift shaft (manual shaft) was not removed.
Let's start assembling the box.
We consistently and accurately assemble clutch packs, planetary gears, etc. The drawings in the manual are quite detailed.
[b] Take a close look at the top figure on page AT504. I remembered, probably, the mother of every Japanese and not very engineer who wrote the instructions, because by this moment everything is already assembled. [b]
We put on the brake band and adjust (see removal of item 13 and manual page AT520).
The last to be installed is the oil pump. Don't forget the seals.
We put the differential.
We put the body (bell) on the sealant. We tighten the bolts.
Install the N-D and servo pistons. Install 3 O-rings, install the solenoid connector in the box, install the brains.
We put a new gasket and install the pallet. We tighten the plug.
We put the torque converter and check the size from the end of the box (bell) to the torque converter.
Installing the box in the reverse order of removal.
After installation, fill in the oil. Gradually. First up to the level. We start the engine. We run the modes. Top up. We look at the leaks.
The first week - check the oil level every day on the hot box. Top up if necessary.
[b] Total for money: [b]
Gaskets 3600 r.
Clutches 3500 rub.
Used piston 1050 rub.
Reverse gear brake plates 5x180r / pc.
Brake band 1300 (not needed).
Total spare parts: 10350r.
Oil Nissan Matic D 2х4l = 4200r.
Torque wrench 5-25 Nm - 1200 rubles.
Add. expenses 2500 p.
Total with overhead costs and a tool of about 18 tr.
The report is rather modest in terms of technical details. The main thing is in the manual. Unfortunately, the photos are from the phone.
PS. While the box was removed, I replaced the steering rack oil seal. Very comfortably.
AlexVF thanks for the detailed report.
Moroz
NISSAN PRIMERA cars with a QG18DE gasoline engine can be equipped with an automatic transmission RE4F03B with four forward and reverse gears.Cars with a QR20DE gasoline engine are also equipped with an automatic continuously variable transmission (variator) CVT (RE0F06A), which can also be shifted manually.
The information is relevant for models 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 model year.
The automatic transmission is controlled by an electronic unit, which provides a full amount of information and better control of the gearbox and the choice of the appropriate gear in all driving modes and all engine loads at the moment. The control unit independently recognizes from the position of the accelerator pedal and the angle of opening of the throttle valve which driving mode the driver selects and switches to the appropriate gear.
Torque from the engine to the gearbox is transmitted through a torque converter - a one-piece unit that is attached to the crankshaft drive disc and replaces the clutch used in manual transmissions (see illustration 1.06 and 1.0c).
Certain experience and expensive special devices are required to check the operation of an automatic transmission and determine a malfunction. Therefore, in this manual, only the procedure for removing and installing and adjusting the shift rod is indicated.
The manufacturer recommends changing the transmission fluid every 60,000 kilometers. As part of vehicle maintenance, check the fluid level in the box.
Attention! Vehicles with automatic transmission must be towed in accordance with the relevant requirements.
The ability to switch the box to manual control mode allows the driver to use it at his own discretion. Switching can be performed both with the vehicle at a standstill and while driving. When switching to the wrist mode while driving, the gear corresponding to the engine speed at the time of the transition is automatically activated and displayed on the tachometer display. To switch to manual gear shifting, the gearbox control lever from position D should be shifted perpendicularly to the right into the recess on the housing, which runs parallel to the slot along which the gearbox control lever moves. This position corresponds to neutral, to which the lever must be returned after each shift.
1 - torque converter
2 - O-ring of the input shaft
3 - oil pump oil seal
4 - oil seal of the left drive shaft
5 - an O-ring
6 - a gear wheel of a drive of a speedometer
7 - an O-ring
8 - the sensor of the speed of rotation of the secondary shaft
9 - resistor
10 - sensor of the neutral position of the automatic transmission control lever
11 - oil seal of the right drive shaft
12 - the guide tube of the dipstick for measuring the level of transmission fluid
13 - a dipstick for measuring the level of transmission fluid
14 - O-ring
15 - O-ring
16 - input shaft rotation speed sensor
17 - copper sealing rings
18 - outlet pipeline
19 - copper sealing rings
20 - supply pipeline
21 - oil pan gasket
22 - a sealing ring of the drain plug
23 - drain plug
24 - magnet
25 - oil pan
26 - pallet mounting bolts (18)
27 - gearbox housing
To shift into a higher gear in manual mode, the lever must be moved towards (+) on the housing, or towards (-) if a lower gear is required. In both cases, the lever must be returned to neutral immediately.
Attention! If the lever is shifted to (+) or (-) more than once, then the box will switch to one side or the other the corresponding number of times. To return to automatic switching mode, the transmission control lever must be squeezed to the left, to position D.
Gearbox and Engine Bolt Locations (1993 4-Cylinder Models with 4EAT / GF4A-EL Gearbox)
Gearbox and Engine Bolt Locations (1993 and Later 6-Cylinder Models with 4EAT / GF4A-EL Transmission)
Gearbox and Engine Bolt Locations (1994 and Later 4-Cylinder Models with 4EAT / GF4A-EL Transmission)
25. Remove the transmission support and support bracket.
Installation of the gearbox is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
In the event of a major overhaul, the gearbox is removed from the vehicle. At this stage, the mechanic carefully examines the condition of all systems serving the gearbox, power unit mounting supports, etc.
After dismantling from the car, the automatic transmission goes to the overhaul area. It should be noted that on this site, as well as on all previous ones, experienced craftsmen who have a higher technical education (engineering and physical) work. Here, the automatic transmission Nissan Primera is repaired, and after washing and drying all parts, their fault detection is carried out, i.e. the possibility of further use of each part or the need for its replacement is determined.
If desired, any customer can be present both during the disassembly of the gearbox and during the fault detection of its parts. At the end of this procedure, a list of replacement parts is drawn up, which is then necessarily agreed with the customer. It should be especially noted that during a major overhaul, it is necessary, regardless of the state of the automatic transmission, to replace all seals and gaskets. The use of original spare parts only from manufacturers of gearboxes increases the service life of a repaired Nissan Primera automatic transmission, but leads to a significant increase in the cost of spare parts. To achieve the most optimal combination of price-quality ratio allows the use of aftermarket parts, i.e. companies specializing in the production of spare parts for automatic transmissions.
Installation is carried out taking into account all technical requirements. At this stage, the failed mounting elements and auxiliary transmission service systems are replaced. In addition, during installation, preliminary adjustments are made to the elements of the external part of the control system.
Output diagnostics and car break-in. They are carried out using the same techniques as the entrance diagnostics. In addition, all previously existing fault codes are erased from the memory of the control unit.
If you need a very urgent answer, it is best to call. Ask a Question
In 2001, Nissan introduced the world Nissan Primera P12 - the third generation of Primera cars, replacing the Bluebird model in Europe. The car was assembled in conveyor mode from 2002 to 2007, but the design has not lost its modern appearance even now. It is a pity that the production of the model was discontinued in 2007. It was replaced by the Nissan Bluebird Sylphy.
The reason for this was the Japanese dissatisfaction with the build quality of the car produced in the UK. In the opinion of the Japanese, the reliability of the model does not meet Japanese standards. Dislike for Nissan Primera P12 the Japanese and the Europeans have a mutual relationship. The former were scolded for the lack of the vaunted Japanese reliability of the machines assembled by the Europeans. The second did not like the look very much, which did not make the new car popular in the sales market.
Primera P12 received moral support from Russian motorists. In the middle class, the model confidently took its place in the leading three. Demand has exceeded expectations. For 6 years, 40,000 cars were sold, and 2003 was marked by leadership in the sales segment. The appearance of the hero in the secondary market prompts a review of the technical condition.
Among Russians, cars equipped with a gasoline engine with a displacement of 1.8 and 1.6 liters have gained popularity. The share of demand for this category reaches eighty percent. The rest comes from cars with 2-liter engines.
On the secondary market in the European part of Russia, there are Primera and other configurations, but this is rather an exception. These are pure Japanese with a 2.5 liter engine operating on the principle of direct injection of a fuel mixture. There are 2-liter configurations with increased power up to 204 liters. With. These motors have a changed valve timing and valve travel. Diesel Europeans with a purely Japanese 2.2 liter engine are rare. or French 1.9.
There are few used Primera diesel engines on the market. They require careful analysis, as they are characterized by the intervention of car mechanics during the warranty period. Change the turbocharger, intercooler or engine. Mostly this is a purely Japanese technique.
Cars with French engines in a different state. The owner does not deliver much worries, except for the reaction to the quality of diesel fuel. However, this is not an indication of the superiority of the French engine. The secret lies in the motor resource - Europe is closer.
Two hundred and fifty thousand kilometers is a feasible distance for a gasoline engine. Periodically, it is required to adjust the valve clearances with washers, change the drive chain on the gas distribution mechanism after 130,000 kilometers. When operating the machine in high-speed modes, replacement will be required more often. The premise is that the engine is cold and vibrates.
Replacing the chain requires removal of the motor, which collectively costs more than $ 1,000. Correction is required, as there is a risk of the motor stopping at high speeds or difficulty starting. The reason for this is an error in the camshaft sensor.
Practical analysis of engines with a volume of 1.8 and 2.0 liters. revealed on the first Primera the weakness of the catalytic converter combined with the outlet manifold. The result of the malfunction was breakdowns in the piston group. The automatic control system reacts to a fault with a delay. The warning light comes on late. During the signal delay time, the honeycomb ceramics gets inside the cylinder. If such a misfortune occurred during the warranty period, then the rings planted on the outer surfaces of the pistons, catalytic manifolds, and in advanced cases, the engine, changed without any problems.
Self-service catalyst replacement is priced at $ 600. At 4,000 US dollars, the replacement of the cylinder block for the 2-liter engine will be. Attachments are not taken into account. Taking an already used engine that has worked in Europe and Japan, the repair costs will be $ 1,500 - $ 2,000.
Non-dynamic behavior of the engine and increased oil consumption become a harbinger of future breakdowns. Practice shows that when approaching 60,000 kilometers in especially neglected cases, the engine consumes up to one liter of oil per 1,000 kilometers.
The Nissan company took into account the operating shortcomings of the engine and, through new pistons aimed at increasing oil drainage, and modernized oil scraper rings, improved performance. The two-liter engine, in addition, was equipped with the firmware of the control unit, which protects the converter. An additional plus manifested itself in the winter starting of the engine - candles are not poured. The catalytic manifold has also undergone a change - the filler honeycombs are located farther than the engine.
After the intervention of Japanese engineers, the operation of air flow sensors became more reliable. Who remembers, then for old motors the sensor stopped working before reaching the one hundred thousandth milestone in the engine mileage. Russian car owners changed the sensors to cheaper ones from the VAZ-2110. If you change to a standard sensor, it will cost $ 1,000.
Operation shows that as a result of the re-equipment of the engine, shortcomings remained - the rear engine support. Its service life does not exceed 70,000 kilometers. The replacement cost is $ 70.
Five-speed manual transmission (manual gearbox) works exactly up to a run of 100,000 kilometers. This is the threshold for the planned replacement of the friction clutch - $ 300. Here the bearings of the manual transmission shafts are buzzing. It is better to fix the defect by spending $ 600, since when fixing the bearing, the correction is achieved by going through the box, which will cost more.
There are 6-speed manual transmissions on cars with a 2-liter engine or automatic transmission, coupled with 1.8-liter engines. Reliability is consistent with the Japanese approach with proper care:
- it is required to replace the working fluid in the automatic transmission (automatic gearbox) after every 60,000 km;
- for manual transmissions, an oil change is recommended every 80,000;
A used car is manifested by a fuzzy gear connection to the manual transmission. Sharpness is restored by replacing the bushing in the drive rod. It is inexpensive.
Assessing the condition of the manual transmission, the 5-speed AV709VA is recognized as the worst instance. Increased operating noise and difficult gear changes remind you of the first signs of wear.
The variator on 2-liter cars covers 150,000 kilometers without unnecessary intervention. Then the worn V-belt needs to be replaced. Officials correct for $ 6,000. Turning to a specialized car service, it is likely that the costs will be reduced to one thousand.
If the rotation sensors on the drive and driven pulley fail, the V-belt will have a shorter life. One hundred thousand kilometers is the border of the threat. The variator works in this case in emergency mode. The cones of the pulleys move and limit the speed of movement to thirty kilometers per hour.
A situation where sensor failure occurs at an increased vehicle speed becomes critical and a jerk in the transmission threatens to break the belt. The likelihood of a belt breaking also occurs at a reduced speed in cases of blocking of the front wheels when parking on a curb.
If the belt breaks, then no need to tow Primera, it is better to use a tow truck. Towing may damage the contact surface of the pinion and pulleys from parts of the torn belt. The cost of fixing it doubles or triples. Replaced belt eliminates troubles.
The transmission of the "Japanese" for an accelerated start is mated with a torque converter, after which, guided by the commands of the control device, the electric motor shifts the valve body stem. As a result, the cones expand or move closer together.
On the first cars, the electric motor failure occurs when reaching 100,000 km of run. The pulleys stop working, as a result, the gear ratio is fixed. As a result, the machine changes its speed only within the limits of the engine speed. The malfunction allows you to independently drive to the car service. The stepper motor, along with the work, will cost $ 400. A planned replacement is foreseen after every 60,000 kilometers of travel.
Suspension first Nissan Primera P12 (Photo further) were endowed with weak stabilizer struts. Working capacity was limited to 30,000 km. Since 2004, the automaker has made changes, increasing the working period by 2 times.
When updating the model, the ball joints in front were ignored. The work assumes a mileage of 50,000 kilometers. The original lever in the kit costs $ 200. If you tinker with an unintended replacement, it will cost $ 30-40. The work of bearings in hubs and shock absorbers is 2 times more productive. Replacing the shock absorbers will cost $ 250 for the front shocks and $ 120 for the rear ones.
The Scott Russell device in the rear suspension is robust. Officials change worn-out silent blocks and ask for $ 2,000. By contacting a car service, the costs will be $ 300. The car manufacturer does not provide for the repair of the steering mechanism. He is a rack and pinion sample. The wear of two identical gear racks or bushings at the output leads to the replacement of the mechanism - $ 1,000.
The steering rods are loose when traveling 100,000 kilometers. The seals on the steering shaft are leaking after 70,000 kilometers.Russian craftsmen take on the correction of shortcomings by using rubber bands of acceptable size and installing non-model steering rods. The knocking steering wheel control is corrected by a new $ 75 steering-rod cross.
The power steering pump ($ 500) will malfunction if the fluid level in the reservoir is not checked. Sealing tubes and hoses lose their elasticity over time, which reduces the volume of the working fluid. Keeping the braking system in good working order will require the expense of the rear calipers. The cost of the original is $ 500 per unit.
The anti-lock braking system (ABS) indicator illuminated is an unpleasant signal. The reason is the wheel sensor. The malfunction will be fixed for $ 300. However, mainly the indicator lights up due to deteriorated electrical wiring.
The body of Primera is galvanized in different ways. The evaluation criterion is the method of galvanizing. Only 2007 cars were treated with 2-sided galvanized galvanizing, with full immersion of the body in zinc electrolyte. This method reliably protects the body. The rest of the predecessors were processed partially according to the type of cold galvanizing - by applying a zinc-containing coating to critical parts of the body. When buying a used car, attention is paid to the year of manufacture and the location of cavities and joints.
Humidity does not spare the car electronics. The taillights suffer from outdated wiring and circuit boards. Replacing each will cost $ 100. Difficulties occur with the ignition unit, designed to convert direct current in the electrical network of the machine into high voltage required for the functioning of xenon headlights. The headlight does not work without it. Not for sale separately, only complete with headlamp. The price per set is $ 800.
The electronics regularly remind you of the age of the car. The airbag health indicator is on, or a radio receiver with an on-board computer reminds of itself - check the contacts of electrical devices.
In the winter period of operation, window regulators are endangered. The formed ice fixes the glass. The desire to lower it leads to the separation of the holder. It is plastic and breaks frequently. You need to fix it without delay. As the air temperature rises, the glass is not fixed and will go down.
Prevents the fan from operating in only one speed mode or a complete malfunction; attentive attitude to the condition of the cabin filter. The reason is a malfunction of the transistor air mass speed controller.
A rear view camera is a necessary purchase. On older cars, it is unreasonably switched on by pressing the brake pedal. The reason is the wiring to the taillights.
It is not without reason that Primera did not satisfy even automakers in terms of reliability. From the Nissan family, the car turned out to be unreliable. However, among the model, there are noteworthy options - a modernized Nissan Primera with a 2-liter engine and a manual transmission.
And then an overview of a used Nissan Primera P12 2002 release:
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