DIY s4ma automatic transmission repair

The site provides information on automatic transmissions
Automatic transmission schemes, variators. The principles of the units.
Repair, disassembly and assembly of automatic transmission.

Good day everyone!
Help people - the S4MA box, I can’t find the manual (I rummaged the whole Internet), it goes in neutral, there is no reverse gear, it seems to go to D normally, but there is no 4th speed.
Where to "dig"? So far, it is in my head to clean / check the valves in the hydraulic brain so that they can walk easily.
By the way, the box is almost completely hydraulic, there are only 2 solenoids controlled by the torque converter lockup.

By the way, M4MA is like an analogue, I heard only the 4th gear there, the gear ratio is smaller - otherwise the same (if suddenly there is a manual for it)

I can assume that the clutches are soldered, which work forward. What kind of car? Year, volume?

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I offer new and used spare parts for automatic transmission, mail: pp14 on Yandex.
I will buy faulty automatic transmissions and variators.

not not this S4MA, for sure, unless of course the sticker was not re-pasted)))
HONDA LOGO car 98 years old D13B engine volume 1.3
The box is hydraulic, it fits the car 100% I'm not the first one who puts this on the logo, on the log my own was also hydraulic and also with 2 solenoids for blocking the GT

about soldered it seems not - I checked the couplings with my hands are scrolled

I have no such information. According to my information, there is generally a variator.

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I offer new and used spare parts for automatic transmission, mail: pp14 on Yandex.
I will buy faulty automatic transmissions and variators.

I didn’t specify, but in my words “I’m not the first to put it on the log” it was understood that the automatic transmission is not native, then by what data did you find out that the variator should stand? 🙂
I say this is a 4-speed automatic, S4MA, I heard that they were installed on CIVIC, INTEGRA, CAPA, PARTNER and like DOMANI.
But I've already downloaded so many manuals. on all cars, even on CR-V tried (some people on another forum hinted at what they were installed on), there in those manuals (Service manual) there are automatic transmission repair processes, only automatic transmissions there are different. or three-shaft instead of 2-shaft, or 4 solenoids instead of 2x, or 7 selector modes instead of 6.

On my this automatic transmission, the following selector modes are: P R N D4 D3 2

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

# 1 Post Stanislav 09-03-08, 09:15

tell me who knows what the problem is mileage 172000
the box jerks when translated into drive
reverse gear engages without jerks

you can feel the switching of all speeds on the way
but it happens like this, I go down, then push forward and set speed
the higher the gear, the less jolts

what could be the problem, advise
oil is normal, that is, at the level

Help people who knows where you can download the S4MA automatic transmission repair manual (4x mortar, it was put on the mouthguard, but mine is contractual with CIVIC). The entire Internet probably climbed.

Well, or who knows the possible cause of the malfunction: There is no rear, in neutral it is going forward, but it seems at the 1st speed, in my opinion there is no 4th gear (I googled somewhere like if there is no 4th then there is no back because the rear is reversible 4th through the gear special)

forgot to add - on D, it seems to the third switches more or less

vovancheg86 first check the selector cable adjustment.
After which the malfunction appeared?

Wipe, I also thought that the cable) But no, the cable is in order, the box is contractual, the most annoying thing is before installation, so that problems do not arise later, I immediately went through it all (the goal was to inspect the filter and evaluate the state of the box using it, the filter turned out to be almost clean), assembled, referring to the photographs of the disassembly, everything should have been ok, but the back one disappeared and rolls forward in neutral (((
As I understand it, the valve (s) are stuck somewhere, because I did not check them especially so that they could move freely, the goal was a filter. That's just to know for sure you need to get the booklet.

vovancheg86 "Before installing, so that problems do not arise later, I immediately went through it and washed it all over" - you are a maniac.
Question: where did you get the new gaskets for assembly?

To be honest, I never thought about it. And in general, for the first time I climbed into such a serious unit.However, I solved the problem with gaskets like this:
Gently picked out the old gaskets and applied a thin layer of high-temperature sealant (red), screwed on the lid, then unscrewed and removed the snot inside and outside formed by extrusion.
I then put it on the car and drove (only forward) not a trace of ATF leaking. So for the rogue, this option will do.

So, on the case, someone has a manual, or do you know where to get it, who to ask.

“Gently pried open the old gaskets and applied a thin layer of high temperature sealant (red),”
- Here I have not specified the situation.

In general, there was a native M7CA that died.
There was an ordered contract S4MA.
When installing the contract, my inexperienced comrades and I broke it (we inserted the bolts a little unevenly and began to attract the bolts, then I didn’t pay attention to the fact that one of the bolts my classmate was tightening with an extension pipe, the result was a crack of about 30 cm in the area of ​​the kickdown leg)
After disassembling the S4MA, it turned out that there were no hydraulic circuits and other important things on this part, that it was just a case, that you can buy a killed S4MA and install this case from it.
But then I wanted to disassemble the killed native M7CA, I decided to practice on it, so to speak, I disassembled it almost completely and got to the filter, the filter was full of all kinds of byaki. But most importantly, I noticed that the cases are no different!
Then I decided to rearrange the case from the native box to the contract one.
So when I was taking apart my own, I was in a hurry to break the gasket, so I also had to clean the surface of pieces that had very well adhered.
Separated slowly and neatly on a contract gasket.

vovancheg86 well done that sharing is both informative and interesting. I have a guess. When you took everything off the box and then installed it, I correctly understood that I was taking off the gears or not. if he took it off, he could turn one of them upside down and put it on the wrong side. I mean, the teeth are now looking in the other direction and therefore there is no one speed, but in neutral it moves.

Logo 1997 CVT, 5d., 91 HP, 16V
Better to be the first to doubt than the last to believe.

Have you checked all the holes? Straight one to one?
When did you collect, check the work of the fork?

The manuals are in English and healthy in size, the internet is full of them. Download from torrent.
Or from here
I have nothing in Russian for automatic transmission.

Ooo, finally, links began to be thrown to me. ))
They broke half of the one on the upper link, the holes fit one to one, as if it were))
The only difference I still saw, on my own case there is a blind hole (like a magnet) it is 1-2 cm deeper than on the S4MA case - well, I thought okay, deeper is better than shallower, nothing will hurt)))

By the way, the side covers are also the same, there is no tube on the native one, like that's all (and even then they are removable)

Wipe, what is the name of the archive on that link?

Ab0VE Honda Civic (96-98) Service Manual zip
Ab0VE Honda Civic EJ6, EJ7, EJ8 (96-00) Service Manual zip
there the models of boxes are not given, you yourself choose which is more suitable.

Wipe, I did not find something there ((I probably downloaded all the books, but I did not find S4MA or M4MA (they say the same thing, different gear ratios of the 4th gear), there are some others, or 3-shaft, or if 2-shaft, then with electronically controlled gear shifting - 4 solenoids instead of 2

mihatool if he was shooting, he could have some of them turned upside down and put on the wrong side it is unlikely, so it will not come together then.

Wipe. yes, most likely it will not work out otherwise.

Logo 1997 CVT, 5d., 91 HP, 16V
Better to be the first to doubt than the last to believe.

People! New details have surfaced
Who thinks about the clutch, I am already starting to think that it can be so conceived?
Here's a theme from the droma:

And does anyone have any ideas on the box itself what is wrong?

under the package of clutches and steel discs, disassembled the 3rd gear, it was flat, and on the 4th for some reason a little in waves - is that how it should be? these are springs, they are and should be wavy.
A man came to me, who had a crack in the clutch, and he drove so little, and the clutches were worn out to a piece of iron, which is really a kick-ass to everything.

If the korobas is still on the car, then the book on the car contains an algorithm for checking the automatic transmission pressures and the installation point of pressure gauges (for them, you will need an M8 threaded fitting)

Well, fuck all the advice!
“Take the box to the service station where they will set you a price tag of 30-40 thousand” and do not care what MAY be left to weld the clutch and the automatic transmission will be serviceable? (well, change the rubber bands)
I do not believe that I will break and do worse.
Or do you mean, an ordinary person is not able to disassemble and assemble the automatic transmission without breaking it?
About why I got there wrote repeatedly.
By the way, for the money that they require in the service station, it's easier to buy a few automatic transmissions!

And the automatic transmission is in the garage, waiting for the clutch to weld, so I will not measure the pressure, and there is no suitable pressure gauge.

By the way, about “and even without a book,” have you seen the book? I’ve probably been looking for a week, from which machines I didn’t download manuals, I didn’t find it in different boxes. I found similar ones, but this one is not. Looked in similar patterns of fluid movement are very different.
Therefore, if the problem is in hydraulics, then there is no point in such a book with a similar automatic transmission with a gulkin dick

When I had a Honda partner, I collected information on it, which one can only find. Then there was still no book on it. So, in the open spaces of the Russian Internet, I found a photo report on the repair of an automatic transmission, but it was long ago, not a partner, not a laptop on which I downloaded it, is gone. It was a very good report. Look, you can find
As for the books, I have a lot of them, only they are healthy in volume and I have no time or desire to spread them. Is there this particular automatic transmission I xs, maybe I didn't bother with this question.
A hydromechanical automatic transmission is a complex unit; without experience, it is much more likely than correct to assemble it in a garage environment.
Collect in a clean room. By the way, the people who made the report collected it at home.

yeees. that's right. repairs are more expensive than buying.

vovancheg86, are you looking for a “new” contract?

Yes, I guessed it, flushing the valves and replacing the rubber bands did not help (((
There are no hydraulic schemes, I don't even know what to do.
In short, the automatic transmission still goes to N, does not go to R and tries to go to P.

In general, I did not find out what the reason is, I believe that all the same these housings differ in some way (maybe these “inner tubes” are arranged differently) and the liquid runs in the wrong direction, the 1st gear is always on.

I bought the S48A contract for 4500r, got up like a native, rides well, replaced the speedometer foot, otherwise it was too short.

And where did you get the box so cheap, if not a secret?

In Ekaterinburg. First I ordered it in Vladik for 2800, then I thought, counted, decided to take it more expensive and closer. It seems that it turned out even more profitable and came the next day as paid. Himself from Tyumen

kind people help! situeishin next, my wife was driving, the speed was 60 at that moment the box switches but at the moment of switching it starts to twitch in convulsions! my wife drove to the place, parked in front, but after that she could not go backwards, the reverse gear disappeared, everything works as usual in the front, all the lights are on, the reverse signal is working but does not go back! but vpert went better than before, switch smoother and faster, usually the box switched with some kind of dullness, but now it’s like on a normal box! what could be the reason for the reverse gear?

If the time had been used, I would have stupidly disassembled it neatly, I would have looked at what was there and how, something might have jammed, although I hardly think that, the filter would not let the broken grain of sand.
Here's how it was with me: One fine day, the box just started to slip, as if the clutch was slightly pressed on the mechanics, then while I was driving this effect intensified to the point that I got up and could not drive (if I stood a little, then you can drive about 50 meters).
Well, I called all sorts of service stations in Tyumen, almost nowhere they do this, then I lit a cigarette, I think what to do then.I read it on the internet, they say that it is much cheaper and it is better to take a contract, well, I bought it from Vladik, read reviews on the site all that, the cost was 12 thousand rubles somewhere. I thought that the more expensive the better. While installing it, the guys and I broke it. You can find it on the forum, I wrote about this story.
In short, with that native box, this is what happened:
1) Some kind of bearing scattered (you can see from the old age of the box)
2) Bearing crumbs and new shavings clogged a mesh filter in the depth of the box (to get to it, you need to practically disassemble everything)
3) Since the filter is clogged, it reduces the pressure
4) There is no pressure, the clutches are poorly pressed (such as clutch discs)
5) The clutches slip, clog the filter even more

In short, if you have time, you take off the box, disassemble, look at what's what and then order worn-out parts.

S4MA automatic transmission repair is an inevitable procedure when:

• the box functions only when the engine is warm or cold;
• slip appears while driving uphill;
• the reverse works, but the vehicle cannot move;
• there are shocks and jerks in the S4MA automatic transmission;
• the car stalls when changing gears.

These are just a few of the symptoms that indicate a serious defect in the S4MA automatic transmission. Considering the important role of the unit in the overall functionality of the car, it is not recommended to postpone a visit to the service. It is only necessary to approach the choice of a car service extremely seriously.

The fact is that the S4MA automatic transmission has a complex device, the employee must ideally understand the constructive methods of repair and the features of all units and components. Plus, he must have equipment at his disposal, otherwise it is 100% to determine the breakdown, and then there is no way to eliminate it.

Our service has been providing quality repair and maintenance services for the S4MA automatic transmission for more than one year, so it can guarantee visitors the highest quality of services. By contacting our company for qualified assistance, visitors receive:

• The minimum lead time. We value the time of our customers, in this regard, the maintenance of the S4MA automatic transmission, as well as the most complex operations, are performed in a very short time.
• Fair prices. Inexpensive service is the key to the growth of the client base, in this regard, it is cost-effective for us to provide inexpensive services.
• First class service. Employees of our company have the required qualifications and long-term experience in repairing automatic transmission S4MA. The work is carried out using advanced diagnostic equipment, modern instruments and devices.

The total cost of work to restore the efficiency of the S4MA automatic transmission will be formed on the basis of prices for certain works and prices for new spare parts and components that are available in the assortment in our warehouse. From the very beginning, the unit is diagnosed, during which defects are determined. The final price will depend on the type of damage and the complexity of the proposed work. Overhaul is the most expensive procedure.

In the event that the S4MA automatic transmission cannot be restored or the repair work exceeds the price of a new unit, a replacement is performed.

Our company provides a reliable guarantee for the work performed and installed components.

Without a car as without hands. The box started to go awry. While I was thinking about where to be repaired, I was choosing where it was of high quality and inexpensive - the car actually stopped near the office. Akpp-ok promptly reminded of themselves (I did online diagnostics on the site) and offered to send a tow truck. They arrived, took them to the service, identified the malfunction, said how much the repair and spare parts would cost. I checked the cost of spare parts on the existential side - it turned out to be even more expensive there, so I agreed to the repair with a clear conscience. It was repaired normally, although it was delayed for 1 day due to a power outage in the service.

In May, after a partial change of ATF-Z1, the korobas (S7CA) ​​decided to die a little.It manifested itself as a slipping of the first gear clutch after warming up to operating temperature. At first I got upset Then I scratched my hair and took this event as a sign from above! It's time for the log to update in the transmission part. A leaky main oil seal was spurred on to this, and again after changing the oil in the engine (5W40 to 10W40) The contender for the place of the box was any 4-speed automatic. Armed with a book, amayama, existom, yandex well, etc. I compared all gear ratios of S4MA S48A M4MA S7CA boxes, their availability on the market of contract spare parts and settled on S4MA. Further, I studied all the docking dimensions with the engine, drives, starter, speedometer (in the end), brains, throttle valve, rear and side airbag. I compared the switching characteristics (speed /% opening of the throttle) and decided to take it. The prices are different from 1t.r. up to 24 tr. depending on mileage and supplier. Stopped at 14.5t.r. mileage

well, I don’t know, there’s no point in capital, you’ll spend money, but it’ll break down the same way in half a year, dima riaddag, contact him, he has a whole warehouse there =)

Added by (28.06.2012, 17:01)
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and what is your breakdown? I used to have s48a, m48a, both broke according to the same scheme - they stop going back

It does not switch to the third, or rather every other time, the revolutions increase, there is no switching.

3 thousand delivery
remove put fill - we do not take into the price
to keep within 5-10? :))))) you will not meet + hemorrhoids on the 5th point you will pick up + you will throw money away
tested over the years))))

Added by (29.06.2012, 01:04)
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better look for s4ma automatic transmission, they were already installed from 95 to 01
perhaps on which thread the partner was put or somewhere else with the zc engine

if the hands are sharpened under the keys, then you can do it yourself, but for a long time.
as first troubleshooting, and then ordering parts.
the main thing is to put everything back together correctly)

Repaired automatic transmission 01N, made a photo report:

Do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair. (Audi A6 with gearbox 01N)

Symptoms: Impact on kickdown (from 4 to 3), light jolts when turning on the 3rd and clicks when turning on the back. In general, it was decided to sort out.
Car Audi A6 1995 onwards, engine 2.0, automatic transmission 01N.

We remove the crankcase protection, unscrew the cross member, exhaust and lambda, unfasten all the connectors from the automatic transmission:

We unscrew the drive (you need a 12-sided head for 10):

We unscrew the box from the rear cushions (in this case, it is necessary to unfasten the selector cable). Next, we begin to unscrew the box from the engine. You will need a horn and a head for 16. To unscrew the lower box bolts - you need to bend the subframe, for this we unscrew its front bolts:

Now we have free access to the lower bolts:

We unscrew the torque converter through the starter window. We remove the box:

Torque converter. You need to remove it from the box immediately after undocking it. So as not to drop and spoil.

We drain the oil as much as it flows out of the level hole. in a glass it is no longer so light:

Since we have already removed the box, then at the same time we unscrew the flywheel and change the crankshaft oil seal.
Old oil seal (it was leaking):

DISASSEMBLY OF THE MECHANICAL PART of the automatic transmission

Pull everything that is pulled out by the axle (assembly of clutches K1-K3 and brakes B2). We see the drive of the planet carrier, small and large sun gears:

Remember how the two retaining rings stand (the “pot” support and the B1 clutch lock). The ends of the ring should be on the sides of the lip:

We break through the plug and pull it out. it didn't work either

We fix the drive of the large sun gear in the box. We put the selector in Parcking:

Now we can unscrew the bolt that is under the plug.

We remove the drive of the planet carrier, small and large sun gears:

We remove the assembly of the B1 brake piston and one-way clutch. It is necessary to pay attention to the position in which the “tongue” is installed.

Do not forget to replace the O-ring, which is on the right in the planetary.

We take out only the B1 package. The ring gear remains in the box - you do not need to unscrew it:

Package B1. There is no wear. The steel rings are not frayed, the clutches are not darkened:

The culprit of the rear engaging clicks is the split damper of the B1 package.It's good that not into several parts. otherwise I would have broken the gears there:

We take out K3. Found a jamb of a previous repair - a broken O-ring was installed:

This means that the K3 package was switched on with pressure passes. those. could not turn on smoothly.
The clutches are darkened and worn. replacement package:

We disassemble the piston on the press. The same "evil spring"))

Piston. Smooth edges, not frayed:

Two clutches are darkened. them, too, for replacement:

I checked the piston - everything is fine there. forgot to take a picture.
There is a very important nuance with this package. It is connected with the fact that plastic centering plates are attached to the drum. So, the latches of these plates can interfere with the clamping of the package if it is not assembled correctly. The package contains steel rings of two types: one and a half and two millimeters thick. First, we collect thin steel rings, then two thick ones. This is how we collect thin rings with friction clutches and snap the plates:

On top will lay two thick rings and a friction clutch.
Latches that get in the way. Close-up photo:

K2 package. Well, everything is fine here:

We disassemble the oil pump. We check the surfaces for production. we are fine ))

View from the side of the reactor hub:

We remove the pallet. Pretty clean:

Maybe someone will be interested. You can make a dipstick and check the oil from above through the filler neck. The oil level should be at the bottom edge of the sump skirt:

Carefully remove the cable by snapping off the connectors from the solenoids with a flat screwdriver.

There is a jamb in the ATSG manual, showing an incorrect installation sequence for one plunger. and the shape of the plungers themselves, as it turned out, is different:

Here is the correct diagram of our valve body:

As you can see, we have a valve body of the model from '98. Differences are highlighted in red. It's a pity only a full-fledged updated manual could not be found:
We wash the valve body in kerosene and put everything back together. for this, traditionally, I use a cat litter box)). very convenient, all metal dust, grains of sand, etc. settles under the mesh and does not float when washed. Clean plate:

Do not forget to wash the part of the valve body that is on the box body:

By the way, the balls are not the same as in the 01M manual. apparently such a feature 01N
In the manual:

A hammer on the separator plate can cause 3rd gear engagement problems. You cannot find a new plate on sale. you can try to grind off the stuffed side. there is still work to be done with this. Then:

I am calling the salty. Shifting EV-5 (N92) was out of tolerance among all solenoids. 105 ohms instead of 55-65 ohms. He is responsible for the smoothness of gear changes. Here it is:

When salty is turned off, it relieves pressure through itself. When it is turned on, it closes off and the drain stops (what is highlighted in orange), pressure builds up in the corresponding channel and pushes the desired plunger.
And this is a solenoid regulating pressure, of which there are two pieces (5 Ohm each):

One regulates the main pressure and the other regulates the converter lock-up pressure. Both were replaced, tk. they are recommended to be changed during repair.

Installing the B1 brake package:

We insert the planetary and put in a new damper:

Insert the assembly of the B1 package piston and the one-way clutch. there is a small ambush with a one-way clutch insert. She won't get up so easily. To alleviate the suffering, we insert the satellite carrier drive and, twisting it, press the clutch. Like this:

Do not forget to wash all the parts that we put in the box. Wash and install the large driven sun gear assembly:

Now we tighten the bolt at the back with the required torque and hammer in a new plug.
We put new O-rings and rubber bands from the gasket repair kit.
O-rings:

We put new rings and a rubber ring on the axle:

We also put on new rings and a plastic washer on the oil pump (from the side of the K2 package).
We put K3:

We put the B2 brake package and the oil pump gasket:

We put on a large O-ring on the oil pump. We hammer in a new torque converter oil seal and install the pump:

Insert the plastic B2 brake fitting, not forgetting to change the rubber seals on it. We install the valve body, loop, etc.
In principle, the box is ready. But there is one BUT. One mistake was made when disassembling the valve body. It looks like this:

Those. it was necessary to note the position of the plug.
Well, it doesn't matter, there is an adjustment method:
We expose the plug to 0.94 inches, which corresponds to 24 mm

Further, after assembly, it will be necessary to adjust the position of the plug for pressure. One full revolution corresponds to an increase in pressure of 1.1 atmospheres.

We hang the automatic transmission on the car.
Vadim (car owner) in the process of screwing something

We start up, warm up and. here we were in for a surprise. after transferring to the Drive position, the car stalls. what does this mean? - That the torque converter is blocked.
We hang out one wheel - it is, after transfer to Drive, the wheel starts spinning.
After analyzing the hydraulic circuits and the corresponding troubleshooting, we identify the culprit:

The converter lock-up adjustment plunger is stuck extended. He opened the corresponding GT blocking valve. here is such a hard forced blocking.
We buy, put a new one:

Now everything turns on normally.
Fill in the oil. We start the engine and switch the selector in all positions, wait for the ATF temperature to rise to 36-40 degrees. To track the temperature, we connect the computer and monitor it using VAG-COM:

As soon as the temperature has risen to the appropriate one - we unscrew the control drain plug - all unnecessary will drain off by itself.
Checking the pressure:
In the Drive position:

It will not be enough. It should be 3.45-3.86 atmospheres for Drive, 6.56-7.59 atmospheres for Revers. Drain the oil, open the sump, turn the regulating plug by 1 and 3/4 turns.

Fill in oil, check the pressure:
In Drive position: 3.6 bar

In Revers position: 6.8 bar

Norm! Although you can add a little.

A bit of video.
Disassembly and assembly of the K1 clutch, automatic transmission 01N:

In the process of disassembly and assembly, manuals from 01M were used, since there is almost nothing on 01N:

Original:
Specialist comments are welcome

P.S. from Admin - the report has been added to the site:
DIY automatic transmission 01N repair
Thanks!

In general, my friend and I removed the stove in order to remove the heel from the plate. When removed, they found a certain amount of metal dust on the magnet. There was a doubt that apart from one remaining problem - 2-3 aftershocks due to the embankment on the slab, perhaps somewhere they messed up and maybe one of the packages is worn out... So far, we decided to figure it out by drilling under a cone in order to remove the stuffed ellipse, they also ordered a new spring from Sonax. if it does not work, we will look for a plate for a replacement.

Doubt is a harmful thing, because haunts. therefore, due to the dust on the magnets, the box was thrown off again and disassembled to check everything. All clutches and steel are intact, there is no wear. So all the dust flew from the torque converter. We did not send it for repairs, because he was already there recently (the previous owner was renovating), and its general characteristics are positive:
- the reactor is blocked in the opposite direction,
- the turbine does not emit extraneous noise during rotation,
- the car runs normally at idle speed,
- the blocking works fine.
It was decided to rinse it with kerosene (while rotating the turbine with a K3 package), then blow it with air and spill it several times with oil to drive out the remaining kerosene. yeah. a lot of dirt. spilled several times - dirt comes out. while they poured kerosene and left - let it soak

Now about the box:
- Washers in place, no wear and tear.
- Bushings without wear.
- Pump surfaces without wear.
- Wear-free rubber edges of pistons and retainers.
The only doubt is caused by the o-rings of the pump hub and the K3 hub. somewhere I came across a review from Vlad-M that they sometimes flow (those from repair kits) and he only puts the cast-iron original.Therefore, my friend and I have plans to “slam” everything on the oil pump hub in order to check for the presence / absence of leaks

The people REALLY ASK for the data on the gaps in the packages, drop it plz. Couldn't find tolerances for K1... measured 1.7 mm from the pack to the stopper. a bit too much in my opinion. I also noticed that the stoppers in K1 and K2 are of the same diameter, but the thickness is different. difference 0.2 mm. Rearranged the stopper from K2 to K1. now K1 clearance is 1.5 mm, and K2 is 1.3 mm.

So, experts, gurus, demons and dinosaurs on automatic transmission, advise. what other rake is possible to get around? What else to check while the automatic transmission is disassembled? How to properly “slam” the automatic transmission? It is understood that to listen to the leak. what air pressure should be kept during blowing? Thanks!

P.S. We do it for ourselves, it's like a hobby. so do not scold too much for mistakes

It is these adjustments that I asked to add to the description. Anyway.
The gap in the package is 0.25 mm per clutch. It is not necessary to be small.

If the locking and pressure plates in K1, K2, K3 are not worn out, then the gap adjustment is not required. But B1 and B2 are regulated by the documentation. The axial beating of all drums is also regulated.

Yes, the rings come across soft. But in your case, they have not yet been erased.

The report is excellent.
I wonder how we dealt with this problem?

An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box,
• disassembly of the box,
• complete set with spare parts,
• assembly (installation),
• installation on a car,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work with, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.

It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks when driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping.All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.

If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

General scheme of diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil,
• check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on a car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Defective transformer. This includes:
   • breaks in the splines of the wires,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main blocking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston oil seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.

It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
4. We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
6. We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
8. We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. We replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly takes place upside-down.

There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.

Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy, but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice car enthusiasts believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.