Do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair Renault Megan 1
In detail: do-it-yourself repair of automatic transmission Renault Megan 1 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
vitat wrote:
I decided to write a report on my Lagoon. Basically it is of course devoted to the bulkhead of my AD4 automatic gearbox. But I'll start in order.
I decided to buy Renault Laguna 1 by accident. Attracted by the machine price / year ratio. True, the little car has seen everyone before me. Bit muzzle, slightly rear, restored and poorly painted, pillows blown up, the box is faulty. But having run through the body with a cursory glance, I did not find any rot. The engine starts, does not knock, the car can move under its own power at the very least. After listening to the seller's tales that she drove perfectly, but suddenly she broke down for some reason, and painted just before him, I nevertheless decided to fit into the adventure and purchase this unit. Somehow I liked it, the main thing is that it is not rotten, I don’t like to tinker with bodywork most of all, but I’ll fix the rest, but change it.
As a result, I got a spacious green unit, with a gun, climate and other (as it turned out inoperative) delights. =) I designed it, put it in the garage and studied the miracle of French engineering on forays, what I bought and how to repair it all.
The box was in emergency mode, which the "iron man" honestly reported at every start of the car: "automatic transmition opereting in safety mode" and lit SERV. As a result, only 3rd gear and reverse worked. The back was cut with a sickly blow to the body.
My attempts to connect to the brain and count mistakes were unsuccessful. OBD2 connector was not found, there was only a rectangular connector under the hood. After reading a bunch of forums and articles on Renault diagnostics, assembling one K-L adapter, taking a purchased KK-L USB adapter from a friend and failing to achieve a result, it turned out that on my car of the 98th year. the SIEMENS Fenix5 system is installed, which works according to the ISO8 protocol and there is no such thing in the DDT2000 database, and that, in general, the ISO8 protocol is covered in darkness and apparently strictly classified, I swore at the French and abandoned attempts to find faults in a simple way. =) By the way, I haven't had any French women yet.
Video (click to play).
After a partial analysis of the engine compartment and inspection of the units, I sadly discovered that they hit the car with the left side and EVERYTHING is broken! ears of the brackets for fastening the transmission mounts to the body. Those. literally broken off pieces of silumin on the body of the box. The upper ears are sealed with something like epoxy and studs are inserted. The ears of the rear support did not even try to repair, the bolts were stupidly inserted into the broken holes. Of course, the whole motor is shaking and, when the gears are switched on, it gives off blows to the body.
Okay, I think, first you need to determine the malfunction of the box, why it is in emergency mode. The rest will come later. And he continued his inspection.
Further, it alerted that the oil pressure sensor connector in the box is all oiled and rewound with electrical tape. I examined the sensor itself, which is located in the most convenient place for stones and other obstacles on the road - at the very bottom of the box. Found that he got it too. One ear is broken off and attached somehow. I took a tester, measured the voltage on the sensor and did not find any changes either on the muffled engine, or on the running or on the gear. He took it off. A black sealant gaped in the channel of the box. =) The sensor itself was bent. The seat in the box was also partially broken off and it was not possible to ensure tightness. Here it is a malfunction, I thought, and on this while I finished further inspection.
Well, I found some free time and I disassembled the sensor at work. Because after looking at the price of the existential for a new sensor, I sour slightly. 11 thousand rubles for the sensor ?? Is it gold? World has gone mad. But using a screwdriver, a hammer and various devices, I managed to open it and align the case.Due to the fact that it was bent, the strain gauge itself inside did not fit snugly against the channel and the oil was released into the wires by pressure. That's where the oil in the connector came from. On a small lathe, I slightly grooved the seat for the sealing ring to make sure that I aligned it evenly and assembled the sensor back, placing the cover on the sealant. It is a pity that there was only a red sealant at hand. Looks like a collective farm. Well, okay. I took the readings from the sensor. At atmospheric pressure 0.2V. At 8bar approx. 3.7V. The sensor is working. =)
I came to the garage and through all sorts of temporary rings / cuffs, in order to somehow seal, screwed the sensor. I took readings. On a muffled motor 0.2V. On a running motor 1.5V. On a 4.8V drive. If you believe the manuals, then on a running engine there should be a pressure of 3 bar, on a drive 12 bar. The testimony is similar to the truth. But the box is still in emergency mode. So somewhere else there is a malfunction.
Okay, with the help of a friend, I took off the box and took it to work, where it is even warm and light. =) I washed it with carher and began to disassemble it. He took off all the electrics. He took off the gearbox housing and, God forbid, 200 grams of oil flowed out. It turns out that almost everything escaped through the broken ear of the rear support. = (Then I took off the oil pump with clutch packs, someone on the internet called it gravity. =) Then I was in for a surprise, in one of the clutch packs the locking ring was broken and the clutch closest to the ring was erased.
Well, a complete disassembly of the box cannot be avoided this weekend, armed with a fotik and proceeded to disassemble. It is a pity, of course, that I did not take pictures earlier, so my pictures start from this place. =) Although at that time I was not going to write any reports and took pictures purely so that later during assembly it would be easier.
So. Box AD4-S22. The bagel (torque converter) has been removed, almost all attachments have been removed from the box.
We take out the gravitap with the oil pump.
Remains of the oil pump gasket.
Sump of the lower crankcase with an unscrewed oil filter.
Here you can better see how the ears of the rear support are broken and how the oil escaped from the diff crankcase.
And this is what the ears of the upper support looked like. In the picture, the truth looks better than it really was.
View from the side of the side crankcase.
My drives are simply inserted along the splines and are not screwed in any way. Even retaining rings are not provided.
Nameplate with box markings on the oil filler neck.
Inscriptions on gravitsap. Audi-Volkswagen emblems hint that parts from their boxes should fit this one too.
We take out the outer shaft with the clutch package.
Then the shaft with the middle clutch pack. These are clutches from 1st to 3rd gears, they call it forward.
The next package of clutches.
And there is one more package.
Once again, all the elements of gravity. Oil pump and 4th clutch package.
We examine the clutches from the first package.
We parse the next package. It is necessary to remove the 4 plastic stoppers and the gear will be removed.
And here are the problematic clutches with a locking ring.
Inspection of the next package. Here you can see that they have already been before me. 2nd clutch is not original.
Putting everything back so far, putting aside the clutch with a locking ring for the convenience of buying new ones.
We continue further. Having unscrewed the bolt from the end of the drive shaft, we remove the planetary gears from the box.
Here you can see that the one who was in the box before me lost a couple of rollers in the bearing.
Further, under the two retaining rings, another clutch pack with a planetary gear sits.
Taking out the retaining rings, we take out the planetary.
It should be said that before driving, you should warm up ANY machine, do not “tear” until the car is fully warmed up. The DP0, AL4 automatic device is assisted in this by a special thermostat, it is both mechanical and electrical, depending on the years of manufacture.
In this article, we will try to consider one of the ways to solve the problem of automatic transmission shocks, transition to emergency mode and other delights such as pressure spread.
I would like to repeat and reiterate that it is NORMAL for this box (after all, this is a development since the 80s, it is just constantly being modernized)
Light tremors in AL4 are acceptable! This is truly a design feature of the AL4. There are parts in the automatic transmission that have excessive inertia;
Check engine mountings! Before dealing with jolts, be sure to check the condition of the engine mountings. If the pillows are worn out - of course, replace;
Attention to the level and properties of the oil in the machine! Every 20 thousand runs, check the oil level or make a partial oil change. Partial replacement is done without disassembling the machine, in five minutes, 4 liters. Replacing and checking the level should only be done by competent specialists, since the correct oil level in AL4 is set according to the regulations for half a page;
The planetary of this box is extremely reliable, in my practice I have never seen a DP0 with dead gears.
• Drain the automatic transmission oil. • Disconnect the battery. • Place a container for collection for subsequent disposal. Drain everything.
• Disconnect the connectors of the electromagnetic secant (sequential) valves by carefully lifting them with a screwdriver; • Disconnect the 6 solenoid secant valves; • Remove 7 screws (3).
Old manufacturer ACUTEX, new Borg Warner. The main differences, the new solenoid valve has a black connector and is held together by 4 clips, the old one is a white connector and is held together with a knurled bezel. Outwardly - everything, inside it is also slightly modified, the main differences in the frequency of the valve operation: ACUTEX - 50Hrz, Borg Warner - 100Hrz.
• When replacing the valves with a new sample, they must be activated through the Peugeot Planet 2000. Old software versions of AL4 computers are not compatible with new EMC! • EMC for a new sample are replaced by PARNO!
• After removing the valve body, flush all valves (top and side);
• Unscrew 8 torxes, remove, wash. Under the lid there will be a small filter and an electrovalve-modulator, remove it, wash it.
• Putting it up in the reverse order.
3. Reinstalling the valve body
• Before installing GB, service box recommends replacing these two rubber bands;
• Be careful not to get the wiring under the valve body, otherwise it can be damaged and you will have a short circuit to the body.
ATTENTION: Make sure the mechanical valve (6) fits into the shoulder (A) of the toothed sector (16).
• We put in place, otherwise the gears will not change, again carefully we check that the wires are inside;
• Refit the fixing bolt of the hydraulic unit (Tightening torque 0.8 da.Nm) Follow the sequence shown; • Connect 6 secant solenoid valves; • Ensure correct operation of the gear change mechanism in all positions. To do this, connect the battery, turn the key to the first position, press on the brake and see if all gears are turned on correctly;
Install: • Crankcase (2) with a new gasket; • Crankcase mounting bolt (1) (Tightening torque 1.0 da.Nm); • Air filter sleeve.
4. Fill in oil, check the level
After assembly, fill in new oil. Mobil ATF LT 71141 (earlier they were released under the esso and total brands, but total was bought by mobile).
• Fill in oil, 4.5 liters. Bring the automatic transmission oil temperature to 58-68 degrees. (Usually turning on the first fan speed or using the Peugept Planet 2000); • With the engine running: Remove the level plug (6 edges, 19 mm each).
If the oil flows out in a thin stream and then drips, the level is correct.
• Oil flows out in the form of drops, and then stops flowing; • Switch off the engine; • Allow to cool; • Add 0.5 liters of oil; • Start the procedure over again; • Periodically replace the sealing gasket of the drain plug; • Tighten the plug (Tightening torque 2.4 da.Nm).
Memo: Filled oil volume: - after draining the oil - 3.5-4 liters.; - after draining the fluid and replacing the hydraulic block - 4-4.5 liters.;
1. The valve body, the second screw from the right, for a hexagon, regulates the pressure. My pressure rose by one full revolution by 0.3 (in case the pressure does not rise after flushing). The optimal pressure is considered to be 3 bars at XX in D, in fact, it can be in the range of 2.55-3.0, this is normal, but 2.55 is the lowest threshold! After rinsing, you can half turn tighten up… During the operation (that way five years) the spring got hooked a little. If you still do not have enough to reach the required pressure, then simply drain the oil again, remove the valve body cover and, without removing the valve body itself, tighten it again. But this SHOULD be done very carefully! Because there are a lot of complaints, I want to WARN you IN ADVANCE, if you twist it, then twist it by a quarter, or even less. The reason is trivial, twist more, there will be a large pressure, the standard pressure at XX is 2.8-3 bars, can you imagine what will happen to the box when 6.0 bars are wound? Better not to know!
As you can see, basically only one valve wears out. Photo 2.
Disassembled valve. So the valve does not need to be disassembled just to be removed, rinsed and swapped. It is recommended to replace the O-ring art. 2578.13 Photo 1.
The location of the temperature sensor, if this dachik is not working properly, then the automatic transmission can also get into emergency mode. Changes with the scythe.2529 26 (but it's better to look at the wine).
Swap valve 2, consisting of an o-ring (B) and valve (2), art. 2574.16
Renault analog 77 01 208 174, the rest of the valves under number (A) are removed one at a time, washed, cleaned and replaced (so everything is in turn). Do not touch the rest of the adjusting screws.
If you buy a new one, you change the EVM pressure control valve.
As it turned out, this GB is not only a problem with two valves, but also the rods themselves, in some places they are simply not tight. In order to fix this, the European supplier to the conveyors of automotive giants and the manufacturer of parts, SONNAX, made a repair kit, one BUT, it can be delivered in high-precision technology, because boring of several channels and replacement of standard pushers with more advanced and sealed ones will be done.
