DIY automatic transmission repair toyota town ice

Hello, a lot of time has passed, but almost nothing happened for the time being. Replaced the rear suspension Kayaba racks 1200r (Toyota is softer, costs 1000r) and bought springs from the cornfield (vaz 2121) front 1080r for a couple, the car became 5 cm higher, handling increased, all the rules do not break anything anywhere. and I bought supplies for the springs, they did it without a pit, in an hour and a half.

But what happened recently is yeah, in general, I drove home from the club, and almost approaching the house, drove onto the hill at the wrong angle, and that's it, I got stuck, neither in front nor back, I tortured the car for about 15 minutes, the guys drove up on the Camry, 4 people, raised, carried (the car) and then it began. The food and bam korobas slips, I stick the rear one in jerks and almost does not go, it stops, I give the gas up to 3 thousand and it will give kaaaak. karoch kapets korobas.

And then I start thinking what to do.

1. Go to do in Kensi, it's 30-60 thousand nada money.

2. Taking korobas from disassembly is from 11 thousand money (but what kind of hop he has left, but I like to ride with the breeze)

3. Take a contract, for some reason from 40 thousand money

4. Buying spare parts and doing everything yourself is priceless 🙂 but in general the money is lower

I started reading all sorts of forums

I pumped up and printed literature, went to the village to see my uncle, and it began.

But first, here I bought parts

Under the hood, I wrote that the box was A42D, but as it turned out later, it was changed, and I had an A43D so the gaskets under the hydraulic plate did not fit. (but even without them the rules go)

For the money Gaskets are all (rubber bands, metal rings, etc.) 2500r

Friction discs came out 2500r took an average price (20 pieces)

Dextron 3rd british petroleum 2000r 7l

4 metal discs 440r

Well, that's all, the bad thing is that the discs were taken for a long time for 11 days, but there is no alternative in Novosibirsk.

The car was parked for a total of 15 days, of which they were engaged in it, 4-5 days (max), but in general, remove the box for 3 hours, disassemble 4 hours, (dofig time to think about what is needed, how it works, what is broken, etc.) hours 3-4 collect the korobas, deliver 3 hours, but with great effort.

In fact, there is nothing complicated about the box, it's difficult to put and shoot it yeah, in a pit at -20 🙂

The box is now like new, I will not describe all the repairs, I have changed all the disks, rubber bands, etc., the entire mechanical part, ideally (planetary bearings), the box switches imperceptibly (there is no tachometer) I am very happy and happy, on the next car I will go through the box myself.

Photos to prove it. There are a lot of pictures, but they are on the fotik, it is necessary to throw off.

Oh yes, there was a breakdown, in the deepest package, which is responsible for the 3rd and the rear, the sealing gum on the piston broke, and there was a lot of wear on the metal discs and freaks, and therefore there was a large piston stroke, 2.4 mm (this is the maximum allowable) and min 0.6 mm I have one now. Therefore, I drove to a cold car, the pressure was normal, the piston was compressed, everything disappeared on a hot one.

A compressor is also very desirable. It is needed for purging the components, as well as for the subsequent "popping" of the assembled packages to check their performance.

Kerosene! There is never a lot of kerosene, so find where they sell in 5-liter canisters. It will be just right.

Painting brush to wash parts in kerosene.

I do not mention different keys. A torque wrench is required.

In this report I will quote myself from this thread here https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=44498

Now we put the box somewhere, preferably on the bars in the same way as we put the cardan shafts, and unscrew the transfer case. Everything is simple there. We work with the razdatka carefully so that the oil does not leak.

Next, we open the manual and do everything strictly according to it. Carefully remove the torque converter, and as soon as we free it from the shaft, turn it upside down, plug the hole with a clean rag and set it aside.

Then we remove the pump, for shooting the pump it is very desirable to adapt some kind of Zhiguli puller. I didn’t guess about it, so I was picking it with a screwdriver, but of course it’s wrong, it could have damaged something.

First, you disassemble the box into separate nodes, then go through each individual node, then collect all the nodes together.

This is what the disassembled oil pump is:

In the process of reassembling the nodes, most of the time is spent on washing out the dirt, there is a lot of it everywhere in the form of black sticky paste, it is washed very hard and for a long time, it takes most of the time.

Further there will be photographs and explanations of the various components. They will not be in full, only as an illustration and comments to the manual. Once again I draw your attention to the main thing-MANUAL! The rest is secondary!

Before installation, friction discs are soaked in dextron for at least 2 hours, I had it for a week.

How to determine - that the clutch is in good condition: on all "freaks" there are inscriptions, so if they are readable, then the clutch is normal and, in principle, it is not necessary to change it.

I think it took me at least an hour to clean all the details. In the pictures, the result is already assembled. In this package, the clutches and discs were also normal, only one disc showed slight wear.

Already washed and assembled unit.

We slam the knot: when air is supplied, you should hear how the packet is triggered - a characteristic pop sounds. Hence it is called "clap".

Not fully assembled unit, there are new clutches, it remains to put the upper flange with a retaining ring.

It was this package that I had burned out, not only was there no friction material on the friction clutches, but there was also a depletion in the metal, the steel disks also had a significant depletion.

We throw away all this worn-out economy, - wash the rest, change the seals on the pistons and assemble.

Next is the building, which includes # 1Brake, # 2Brake, planetar y sun gear.

The piston is squeezed out with compressed air.

The edges of the piston are full of dirt.

This is where the pictures end, since I lost my memory card, there were photographs of the valve block bulkhead.

After the bulkhead, we assemble everything according to the manual, having previously brought all the large body parts to the car wash: the body itself, the bell, the shank, the pallet.

After assembling the box, you need to rinse the following parts: the torque converter, the tubes that go from the box to the radiator and the radiator itself, or rather its sector for cooling dextron,

"Bagel" (aka torque converter).

I drained as much of the old dextron as I could, then pumped out as much as I could with a syringe and tube. Fill in gasoline, shake the "donut", drain, pump out with a syringe. And so I did 4 times for sure. Dirt in abundance. How to further remove the remaining gasoline is the most tedious procedure. We take a piece of rag, stuff it inside the "donut", shake the torque converter, take out the rag, squeeze it out again. Thus, another half a liter of gasoline is squeezed out. This procedure takes an hour and a half, at the end of the procedure it is, in fact, squeezed out drop by drop.

We remove the tubes leading to the radiator, raise the lower branch pipe up to the expansion tank, and bring a plastic bottle to the upper one, from below. We collect gasoline into the syringe, put it in the branch pipe, and pump it in. And so on until pure gasoline comes out.We blow it out with a compressor, with low pressure through the upper branch pipe.

Flushing the tubes - just spill it with a syringe until pure gasoline runs out, and blow it through. Then we fill in the new slurry in the "bagel" and in the automatic transmission, and set everything forward.

I decided to put the box and the distributor separately. I managed it myself. He brought the box under the bass, then lifted it by the bell and put a plank, then lifted it by the shank and put the plank too. When the planks had accumulated, I replaced them with bars and put the planks back up again. And so on until it becomes possible to bring the jacks. Well, then we slowly carefully bring the box to the engine, and fasten it according to the book. The same is with the transfer case.

Once again: make sure that the bell is always higher than the shank, so that the donut does not slip off!

Well, that's it, we hook it up, we connect it.

I repeat, there is no need to use this report instead of a manual, this report is more likely to make it clear that it is not Gods who burn pots, everything can be done without any "masters". In order to make sure of this, you can go to the site my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/51 Professionals talk there, there is a section “problems after repair”, see how many topics there are, such as “after repair does not go forward or backward ", or" goes only forward ", or" goes only backward "and the like. Some people go over it several times and cannot get the car to move. And this is written by professionals who are paid by people from 25,000 rubles for repairs!

Although I do not argue, there are real pros, but, apparently, there are not so many of them - as they say, piece goods, and on this forum it was such people who helped me to cope with some questions, but I am a beginner in this, and I don’t make money on it.

PS When I was 12 years old, my parents, with their creak and my squeal, bought me a moped Riga-24 or DELTA in another way, it was a cool device at that time, which I just did not do with it. V-50 engine. He had a sore spot, like all engines of that series (for example, Sh-62, etc.), - the clutch. So the clutch on them was identical to the clutch packs on the automatic transmission. It is clear that in the box the package is activated hydraulically through the piston, and then manually through the lever, but the essence is the same: the basket and a set of discs, the spring was one central. Their sore spot was the friction discs, they quickly burned out, since there was a continuous deficit, we cut them out of PCB, but they did not last long, but it was easy to disassemble, put the moped on the right side and open the lid without draining the oil. Eh childhood. -)

A few more interesting articles and manuals on this topic:

The Toyota automobile concern is the largest in the world. Toyota cars have been holding the lead in terms of the number of cars produced per year for many years. Toyota makes its cars not only comfortable, but also reliable. The most reliable in the world. Even with the shift of all car manufacturers to controlled wear and tear, Toyota still holds the top spot for the reliability and durability of their vehicles. This also applies to transmissions. Almost all automatic transmissions that are used in Toyota cars are manufactured by a subsidiary of Aisin. Aisin transmissions do not always use the most advanced technological solutions and are not always the fastest and most economical in comparison with analogues. But they are invariably the most reliable and long-lasting, rarely competing only with ancient American designs. Often, Aisin transmissions are made so high quality and reliable that they outlive the cars themselves or even their owners. In addition, their designs are very simple and always have a comprehensive guide, with which you can do the repair of Toyota automatic transmissions yourself.

Toyota Camry and Highlander cars are equipped with four-speed automatic transmissions of the 140-240U family, the most massive and widespread boxes from Aisin.This automatic transmission was installed on a variety of cars: small SUVs, station wagons, crossovers, premium sedans, including Lexus. The machines of this family are still being produced, on their basis the generation of five-speed automatic transmissions U150-U250 was made, which were installed on the Camry and Highlander.

Like all transmissions on Toyota cars, the Camry automatic transmission is unbreakable. However, Camry transmissions have the 4th highest number of repair requests worldwide. This is not due to the reliability of the Camry car box, but to its prevalence all over the world, the popularity among motorists and the unwillingness of the owners to change their Corolla or Camry, which has not been broken for years, for something different and new, but not so reliable. Camry transmissions can easily work out their 5, 10 or even 20 years, but the owner wants to continue to drive these wonderful cars, so he gives them to be repaired, and not to a landfill.

At the first service of the Camry automatic transmission, the oil and filter are changed along with the pan gasket. From the middle of the 2000s, Camry transmissions were switched to non-replaceable oil, which, however, still needs to be changed at least once every 50 thousand kilometers. The latest generation Camry automatic transmission filters serve up to 120 thousand kilometers.

Camry automatic transmission seals and gaskets repair kits can be installed non-original. The clutches of the Camry automatic transmission are changed with the whole set, but only when the machine is overhauled, if at least one package has burned out.

Camry automatic transmission hardware is very reliable, only the heaviest and most powerful cars are at risk. They may need repairs as early as 200 thousand kilometers.

A common reason for contacting the Camry automatic transmission repair is the failure of the front planetary gear set. From extreme loads, its gears can break, the gear teeth can quickly collapse. This is due to the Camry automatic transmission too high torque in conditions of insufficient oil. Owners of a Camry automatic transmission with three-liter engines should protect the car from aggressive acceleration and slippage on the off-road or in winter.

The main symptom of planetary gear destruction is traces of metal filings and crumbs in the oil pan of the Camry automatic transmission. If you do not change it in time, a chain reaction will go in the box and other automatic transmission mechanisms will suffer.

This is usually followed by the sun gear and bearings, followed by the ring gear and rear planetary gear set.

The rear cover of the Camry automatic transmission is a weak point in the design of this box. On powerful cars, it breaks from a stuck Teflon ring. The oil pressure of the Camry is lost and the forward clutches begin to slip. The bending load during aggressive driving with dirty oil at maximum torques abrades the Teflon layer of the O-ring. For powerful cars, it is necessary to change the oils more often and monitor the condition of the torque converter.

Clutches and steel discs of 3-4 gears fail a little less often. They are the first to suffer from oil starvation.

Pistons fail only when overheated and run dry; they are quite resistant to the effect on their rubber coating of the Russian winter.

From time to time, the bushing, cuff and oil seal of the oil pump fail. They should be replaced with every repair.

The electrics of this automatic transmission are quite reliable, but in the early years there is a "childhood illness" - the contacts of the control unit were poorly soldered and the electrician sometimes "glitched".

In addition to Toyota, these transmissions have become widespread on Lexus. Toyota Harrier automatic transmission repair is no different from Lexus PX 300.