In detail: do-it-yourself u341e automatic transmission repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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The site contains diagrams of the internal structure of the Toyota automatic transmission
Automatic transmission Toyota / Aisin Co U340E / U341E / U341F -343-
4-speed automatic transmission U340-341 (Toyota) has been working since 2000 on front-wheel drive Toyota Avensis, Corolla, Echo, Celica, etc. with a motor up to 2 liters. Another record holder of Aisin-Toyota boxes, popular in repair.
Developed concurrently with U140 U240 this automatic transmission is a constructive analogue and has also been the leader in repairs among Aisinovskih automatic transmissions for a long time.
And this is connected as well as with other leaders (U140 U240 and ZF 5HP19) - with its simple and proven design, devoid of "bells and whistles", which was installed on the mega-popular Corolla, Avensis, Yaris and Auris and hundreds of thousands of other Toyota cars with a 1.3 - 1.8 liter engine.
The entire mechanical and hydraulic part of these boxes is very reliable and the resource before the first overhaul is 200-300 tkm, depending on the driving style of the drivers.
Early years U340-341 requires timely oil and filter change.
The oil in age automatic transmissions is like Toyota T-IV, but from 2005 to 2007 Aisin and Toyota transferred all their machines to synthetic oil - Toyota Ws... With appropriate changes in the computer settings.
With age and as the clutches wear out (especially the torque converter), the oil begins to get dirty faster and has to be changed more often. Frequent oil changes postpone the need to replace the converter lining somewhat.
Of the “iron”, older machines that have survived long-term operation with difficult working conditions, forced driving and lack of oil pressure have the problem of gear wear:
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Video (click to play). |
The more aggressive the overclocking, the earlier this problem manifests itself, which is that RingGear breaks.
And it comes only complete with the planet Forward itself.
You can find out about the wear of the planetary gears by the content of metal chips in the pallet. If crumbs larger than 1mm are found, it is an indicator of critical wear of iron and a sign for an urgent replacement of the planet. If you continue to drive with this malfunction, then at any moment the planet may collapse, the car will stand in the middle of the road.
Replacing the planetary gear set is a regular repair, which is often done by craftsmen.
RingGear breaks usually after Planetary row Output Planet.
Together with him, he breaks the sun gear with fragments.
All these original parts are widespread, available and recoverable from the box. Craftsmen prefer to order the original, because in almost all used boxes this planet is worn out and all parts are in the “risk zone”.
One of the most popular complaints is oil leakage from the pump seal. Stands between the box and the donut.
This is usually caused by the most commonplace wear of the torque converter clutch clutch and the associated overheating. Changing the oil in this case does not save, but only accelerates the premature death of first the rotating sleeve, and then the pump itself.
The friction surfaces of the pump cover with the gear are generated. If you continue to drive with an abnormally operating oil pump, then due to a lack of pressure, the bushings wear out and wear out and the clutches begin to burn, which gives the oil a burnt smell.
Together with the gland, a pump sleeve is ordered. Less often it comes to replacing the pump itself.
With most cases of overhaul U340-341 along with a set of gaskets and oil seals, a complete set of clutches is also changing.
If it was operated at the maximum torque limit, then:
The most popular replacement for consumables is in the drum package Direct - Steel discs and clutches. The reason is the wear of the cover caliper O-ring.
Symptoms - insufficient traction, the automatic machine does not transmit all the torque from the engine.
If you continue to drive with worn rings, you can lose both the cover and the drum, which immediately increases the cost of overhaul.
Structurally, the weak point of the automatic transmission of Aisin's U series *: from too high torque, the Reverse drum, sitting on the cover caliper, skews, and Teflon rings 179 create external seats at the Drum (Reverse) and the Rear Cover.
Therefore, when changing the friction clutches in the Direct drum, the craftsmen always check the wear of the cover and the Reverse drum seat.
Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day
CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts
# 1 Post lyaman 07-03-07, 09:35
# 2 Post lyaman 07-03-07, 09:31
The layout of the balls in my hydraulic plate
# 3 Post arsas 07-03-07, 09:31
# 4 Post lyaman 07-03-07, 03:18
Tell me, is there a difference in the thickness of the elasticity that is weaker and weaker in the springs?
# 5 Post lyaman Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:27 am
# 6 Post al030 Wed Jul 17, 2013 11:09 am
# 7 Post lyaman Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:57 pm
# 8 Post lyaman 06-03-07, 09:45
I disassembled the valve body and it turned out that my crooked hands put the spring in the wrong place
I put it in the switching valve from 4 to 3. and it stood on the switching valve from 3 to 4. on the diagram, the arrow indicated.
In this regard, a problem arose - the 3rd and 4th speeds disappeared, the oil is cloudy, as I understand it, due to an error with the spring, the clutches ran out. It's just not very clear which package.
In D mode, it switches to second speed at 3 no longer drives. In S2 mode, it switches normally, in S3 / 4 it also does not go. Looking at the diagram, in the broken modes of the box, the DIRECT package is involved (in the diagram C2). The rest of the clutch packs should seem to be alive, judging by the modes in which the box is now working.
To change, I think to remove the side cover without removing the box, who knows maybe it will be possible to do this?
# 9 Post lyaman Wed Jun 25, 2014 2:16 am
And I ended up with an unequal fight with a box))
Disassembled on the street. did not drain the oil. the cover can be removed easily.
A fluoroplastic ring pierced the seat in the side cover.
Because of this, there was no pressure to clamp the bag.
The clutches were hot - I changed them.
New cover and PTFE rings supplied.
Passed 15000km flight after all of the above
normal - switches clearly without jerking.
The first pancake came out lumpy, but I hope there won't be a second one at all))
# 10 Post andrei_grebenkov Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:53 pm
# 11 Message andrei_grebenkov Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:55 pm
# 12 Message Bratsk 38 Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:18 pm
Automatic four-speed transfer gearbox U340 designed for Toyota front-wheel drive vehicles with an engine capacity of up to 2 liters. This gearbox appeared in the early 2000s and was installed on Toyota Celica, Corolla and Avensis cars.
This transmission is one of the most popular due to its excellent reliability. A fairly simple design without unnecessary bells and whistles allowed this automatic transmission to provide maximum survivability and durability. It is not uncommon when cars with this transmission could work without the need for overhaul of the gearbox for 200 - 300 thousand kilometers. The U340 transmission had an automatic lubrication system that reliably provided adequate cooling and lubrication. At the same time, it must be said that the durability of use Automatic transmission U340 directly depends on the driving style of car owners. In the event that the car owner professes an aggressive and fast driving style, the transmission may require overhaul after 200,000 kilometers. In most cases, this transmission is designed for quiet city driving.
Of the common failures, we can single out the problems of the lubrication system, which are expressed in problems with the operation of the solenoids.Due to the use of low-quality oil, the solenoids can fail, which in turn leads to problems with the lubrication of moving elements. As a result, gears and clutches suffer, which require repair of automatic transmission U340... In rare cases, problems with the planetary array can be noted, which forces expensive and extremely difficult repairs. As a conclusion, we note that this gearbox has established itself as one of the best transmissions that were installed on Toyota front-wheel drive vehicles.
This four-speed transmission is installed on Toyota front wheel drive vehicles with an engine of less than 2 liters. This well-studied and repairable automatic transmission is extremely common in Russia, since most of the front-wheel-drive Toyota cars have been equipped with it since 2000 - Echo, Celica, Corolla and many others. Various markings U340E and U341E indicate additional design details. For example, the automatic transmission marked U341E is capable of transmitting higher torque and can be installed on high-powered cars (Celica), while the U341F is installed on modern four-wheel drive vehicles.
On average, Toyota owners with this gearbox come for repairs after 200-300 thousand kilometers. Until that time, it is enough to follow the operating rules of the car and change the oil and filters on time.
- Under heavy loads, gaskets, oil seals and friction clutches fly first, and the cover caliper O-ring is often worn out.
- Structurally due to the defect - tilting of the drum, reverse at high torque. When repairing this unit, the craftsmen not only change the clutches in the drum, but also be sure to check the drum covers.
- With aggressive and frequent acceleration, the planetary gear set and sun gear become unusable.
- The hydraulic plate is clogged with dirty oil, and as a result - slippage in the package, wear of the clutches. Our masters clean the hydraulic plate every time the automatic transmission is dismantled.
- Electrics are the strongest link in this automatic transmission, which has to be repaired much less frequently than hardware.
The good news for the car owners of this gearbox is that most of the parts and repair kits are freely available and are quite widespread in Russia. On the basis of our technical center REKPP we have our own warehouse of components, which will provide a quick and high-quality repair of automatic transmissions U340E and U341E, regardless of the complexity of the breakdown.
Developed concurrently with U140 U240 this automatic transmission is a constructive analogue and has also been the leader in repairs among the Aisinovsky automatic transmissions for a long time.
And this is connected as well as with other leaders (U140 U240 and ZF 5HP19) - with its simple and proven design, devoid of "bells and whistles", which was installed on the mega-popular Corolla, Avensis, Yaris and Auris and hundreds of thousands of other Toyota cars with a 1.3 - 1.8 liter engine.
Modification U341E - can transmit higher torque and is used for more powerful motors Celica (1.8l), U341F - modification for four-wheel drive vehicles (4WD).
Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.
Typical repair points of automatic transmission U340-341
When the oil is “burned”, it is necessary to change the complete set of clutches of the entire automatic transmission - 343003. Always unoriginal.
The overhaul of the machine with burnt oil and burnt steel discs requires replacing all rubberized pistons for correct gear shifting - 343008.
For a long and healthy old age U340-341 requires timely replacement of oil and filter - 343010.
Oil in age automatic transmissions was used like Toyota T-IV, but since 2005, Aisin and Toyota began to transfer all their machines to a new all-season synthetic oil - Toyota Ws... With the appropriate changes in the computer settings. It is unpretentious to the level and quality of the oil, but the valve body responds well to an oil change.
With age and as the clutches wear out (especially the torque converter), the oil begins to get dirty faster and has to be changed more often. Frequent oil changes postpone the need to replace the converter lining somewhat.
One of the most popular complaints is oil leakage from the pump seal (340070). Stands between the box and the donut. Change the oil seal 343070 together with the bushing 330034. when you need to carry out cosmetic repairs. The pump bushing usually already has a wear limit when the mileage exceeds 300 tkm.
This is usually caused by uneven wear of the torque converter clutch clutch and associated vibration and overheating. In this case, changing the oil does not save, but only accelerates the premature death of first the rotating sleeve, and then the pump itself (343500).
The friction surfaces of the pump cover with the gear are produced - No. 343510. If you continue to drive with such an oil pump, then due to a lack of pressure, the bushings wear out and the clutches wear out, which gives the oil a burnt smell. During a major overhaul, they repair the torque converter, which is the cause of this problem, and the valve body, clogged with mud from a donut.
Therefore, when changing the clutches in the Direct drum, 343555, the craftsmen always check the wear of the cover and the Reverse drum seat.
It is hardly fair to talk about "iron diseases" of this unkillable family of automatic transmissions. Is that about “developing a resource”.
For older machines that have survived long-term operation with difficult working conditions, forced driving and lack of oil pressure, there is a problem of wear of gear wheels of Forward Planet No. 343582A. Or they order a set of planetary gear sets (BU) - 343583.
The more aggressive the overclocking, the earlier this problem manifests itself, which is that RingGear 343594 ( see diagram above left ). And it comes only complete with the planet Forward itself. You can find out about the wear of the planetary gears by the content of metal chips in the pallet. Crumbs larger than 1mm are an indicator of critical wear of iron and a sign for an urgent replacement of the planet.
With him, in a chain reaction with fragments, he also breaks the sun gear 343614.
All these original parts are widespread, available and recoverable from the box. Craftsmen prefer to order the original, because in almost most used boxes this planet is worn out and all parts are in the “risk zone”.
One of the frequent replacements on fresh boxes (since 2009) is the line pressure solenoid EPC - 343428, which works much more intensively than the rest of the solenoids.
It develops its service life after prolonged operation in dirty oil with worn rings and seals. Timely replacement of the oil and rings of the repair kit allows this solenoid to work for the entire service life of the automatic transmission.Replacing one solenoid without replacing the O-rings from the Remkomplekt reduces the resource of the new solenoid significantly. Together with it, the gas turbine blocking solenoid is often changed.
Popular budget clutch repair - replacing discs in a drum pack Direct 343555 - Steel discs # 343126 and clutches # 343106. The reason is the wear of the cover caliper O-ring. (below)
Symptoms - insufficient traction, the automatic machine does not transmit all the torque from the engine.
If you continue to drive with worn rings, you can lose both the cover and the drum, and then the valve body solenoids.
Typical problems of valve body electrical and U340 solenoids.
The electrics of this automatic transmission so rarely have to be repaired that, according to this indicator, the automatic transmission U340 are the next record holder of reliability.
However, with each dismantling of the box, the masters habitually disassemble and clean the valve body and electromagnetic valves (solenoids), which are suffering from dirty oil. A clogged valve plate leads to unpredictable jerks and slippages in the package, where oil is not supplied by the corresponding valve body plunger. Long-term operation with such a problem leads to premature wear of almost permanent clutches.
Occasionally they order linear solenoids-electric regulators that have exhausted their long service life: Main pressure (EPC) 343428 and Torque converter lock-up solenoid - (LockUp) 343425.
The rest of the shift solenoids are ball “On-Off” and last much longer. Three shifters are used on the plate, switching forward speeds with an on-off combination (diagram on the left): S1 - 343421 and S2 - 343422. And the shifter, including the reverse S3 - no. 343423, which does not appear in the replacement at all.
After an appropriate overhaul, these automatic transmissions run for a long time, if you monitor the level and quality of the oil. A truly "indestructible" box. For drivers with a relaxed driving style and regular oil changes U340 begins to demand attention only after 300-400 tkm.
But in fairness, it should be noted that the statistics of sales of spare parts for U340-341 is greatly distorted by the fact that owners of small budget cars older than 10-15 years rarely decide to overhaul automatic transmissions with the purchase of new spare parts, since finding cheap used parts or the used box itself is always quite a big temptation. Therefore, for reasons of extreme economy, craftsmen often order one gasket for the pallet 343300 with a filter, and the rest of the parts are taken from auto disassembly.
Cost and availability of spare parts for repair U340 you can find out in the online store by typing a number on an orange background in the search box for details.
Toyota Fielder NZE121G 2004 (U340E), mileage 53 tkm.
There were no problems with the typewriter, I found it on my head. I changed the automatic transmission filter the day before yesterday. ATF has not changed completely. changed recently (5 tkm ago) on the device without changing the filter and removing the pallet. It was necessary to immediately change the filter of course, but who knew. As soon as I left the service station, the problems began. With intensive acceleration (or kickdown), immediately after 4000 rpm in second gear, the thrust disappears (slippage?) And the revs increase sharply, after a second the impact, the transmission is switched on again and further acceleration without surprises. When switching to third to 4000 everything is fine. Returned to the service station to complain. They say that most likely they have nothing to do with it: it coincided. They changed the filter in front of me, did not notice anything criminal. The pallet is a little dirty, but the magnets are without shavings. ATF is dark pink, without impurities, does not stink. We went with a scanner: no errors, parameters are normal, box control is in order. I went to see other box specialists. Again we rode with the scanner. Provisional diagnosis: 3rd pack or pressure control solenoid dies. Final at showdown. They offer repairs (9 tr. + 3 tr. Remove / supply + spare parts) or replace with a contract one (15 tr. + 3 tr. Remove / deliver).
The following things are not clear:
1) why did the box become buggy after replacing the filter?
2) who is to blame? package, solenoid or something else?
3) what to do? repair, change?
How is the oil level on the dipstick?
First, take off the pallet and see for yourself
how the servicemen installed the filter.
And that in general they poured there.
PS: I don’t understand why change the oil for the service.
Toyota Fielder NZE121G 2004 (U340E), mileage 53 tkm.
There were no problems with the typewriter, I found it on my head. I changed the automatic transmission filter the day before yesterday. ATF has not changed completely. changed recently (5 tkm ago) on the device without changing the filter and removing the pallet. It was necessary to immediately change the filter of course, but who knew. As soon as I left the service station, the problems began. With intensive acceleration (or kickdown), immediately after 4000 rpm in second gear, the thrust disappears (slippage?) And the revs increase sharply, after a second the impact, the transmission is switched on again and further acceleration without surprises. When switching to third to 4000 everything is fine. Returned to the service station to complain. They say that most likely they have nothing to do with it: it coincided. They changed the filter in front of me, did not notice anything criminal. The pallet is a little dirty, but the magnets are without shavings. ATF is dark pink, without impurities, does not stink. We went with a scanner: no errors, parameters are normal, box control is in order. I went to see other box specialists. Again we rode with the scanner. Provisional diagnosis: 3rd pack or pressure control solenoid dies. Final at showdown. They offer repairs (9 tr. + 3 tr. Remove / supply + spare parts) or replace with a contract one (15 tr. + 3 tr. Remove / deliver).
The following things are not clear:
1) why did the box become buggy after replacing the filter?
2) who is to blame? package, solenoid or something else?
3) what to do? repair, change?
In the thread about Fielders, I wrote yesterday or the day before yesterday:
I have a 2001 Fielder, 1 NZ engine. body 121 NZE. I took the car myself from the auction. Mileage in Japan is 75 thousand. I wound up to 123 thousand in a year and 3 months. I live in St. Petersburg. I used the car in large part on the highway (intercity), I like to drive. The oil in the automatic transmission on the dipstick was clean, so I did not change it.
During operation, all speeds were included well. For a long time it was such that let's say the food was 60 km / h, but you need to accelerate sharply - I press sharply and strongly into the gas, there was a small shock, the speed changed and everything was ok.
The last two months, in the morning when I warm up the car, I turned on D, but the speed turned on with a delay (and if you press the gas before turning on the speed, then there was a blow, the car jerked forward, then everything was ok.) Everything was fine when it was warmed up.
In short, on Friday evening (today is Tuesday) I went to the service to change the oil in the automatic transmission. I bought a T-4 Toyotovskoye in a white metal can (in a black can - made in the Arab Emirates, so I did not take it and did not recommend it). I bought two cans of oil (each for 2500 TOTAL 0 5 thousand rubles) + filter (made in America) costs 1900 + pallet lining - 400 rubles. I paid 2000 rubles for changing the oil in the service.
I watched the replacement take place - the bolt was opened with a hexagon - the oil drained, then the pan was unscrewed - the oil spilled out, then the filter was unscrewed (exactly the same as I bought). The oil was red-brown, cloudy, and did not smell burnt. There was no dirt and no shavings or sawdust on the magnets on the pallet.
We washed the pallet with gasoline, dried it with air, put a new gasket, put the magnets in place. We put in a new filter (QUESTION: do you need to pour a little oil into it?), Screwed on the pan. We poured new oil through the dipstick (almost 4 liters). They called the car - they switched the automatic machine (but at that moment I did not feel that the forward speed was turned on).
Then the oil was drained through the hex bolt, a new one was poured. adjusted it to HOT. drove through the city.
It seemed that the speeds are included smoother.
In the morning the car warmed up, turned on D - but the speed of 30 - 40 seconds did not turn on. I pressed the gas - the car jerked and drove off. Traveled for 2-3 hours with parking for 10 minutes - everything worked and turned on normally.
The next morning (Sunday) - in the morning it turned on only through the gas. Trains again for 2-3 hours, everything is ok.
Arrived at the airport - left for 50 minutes. The speed did not turn on - only when the gas was pressed. After that, on that day, the speed began to be turned on only with the help of gas.Moreover, after stopping in the evening for about 1 hour, I had to gas for about 5 minutes for the speed to turn on. The car did not go, but a light came on - the engine (tap orange).
The next morning (Monday), the speed did not turn on at all - I gasped for about 10 minutes, then I pressed the gas sharply up to 3 thousand rpm, the speed turned on.
After an hour and a half driving around the city, I stood with the engine off for about 10 minutes - the speed turned on only when I pressed the gas.
Then she stood for about 2 hours - I had to accelerate for 5 minutes and hard to turn on the speed. When I almost stopped the car, then I pressed on the gas, then at first there was a slip, then the speed was grabbed (like on a burnt clutch in mechanics)
By the way, when I was on the gas, the engine compartment felt some slight slippage sometimes.
In short, my box is the same and also broke. Also after replacement. Here.
eginyanab Apr 04, 2017 10:23 pm
Hecbr Apr 04, 2017 10:33 pm
Greetings, now the topic has gone in the right direction.
I have questions, if it is not a secret and there is a desire, an opportunity to answer them.
1- on the basis of which ECU is assembled or is it a separate automatic transmission control unit, which one
2- connection diagram
3- box U341E and then 01, 02 or 03
4- what is the problem in MULTIPLEX communication
5- backstage from which car
6- family drives remained or had to be changed
I decided to assemble on the basis of an ECU from Avensis for the reason that I have all the diagrams of all electrical equipment for it and it is almost identical to the Corolla Verso, well, comrade Avensis 1.8 automatic transmission has something to make measurements on. Tomorrow I'll go to the TC for the ECU, now while I'm doing the adapter for it to connect with my wiring, I want to first try to register my immobilizer in the ECU, if it works out, the engine will start and the tidy will show what it sees, if not, then I'll have to sew and exclude blocking of the ECU, or play eeprom but first you need to look at the insides. The connection diagram, the pinout of the adapter will be laid out further in the topic as they are manufactured and tested. The box is planned from Toyota Isis U341E 01A, I have not yet taken it, I want to deal with the electrician, I have only the connectors from the ECU on my hands, tomorrow the ECU itself will be, the wings are planned from Avensis, I want to remake it for my seat, it fits better in design. you can transfer from Broom to my body, but not yet
Hecbr »04 Apr 2017, 23:30
Hecbr »05 Apr 2017, 00:14
Hecbr »05 Apr 2017, 00:22
Hecbr »05 Apr 2017, 05:49
Hecbr »05 Apr 2017, 06:04
barseniy »Apr 05, 2017 12:56 pm
The u341 stands up without alterations and replacement of drives, since the Corolla Verso is assembled on the 250 Avensis platform.
The most important thing now is to make friends with the immobilizer and display the speed and gear data on the panel, the latter of course is questionable. It is probably easier to use the Panel from the Versa with the manual transmission, because most likely it will not be possible to make friends with the new controller just like that. since Avensis does not display data on the included gear. looked at the diagram, a signal should be output through the multiplexer.
What is the problem with the multiplexer now?
In theory, since this is a Toyota, and the periods of the model year are the same. then at the program level it should be docked.
And the idea is correct, you need to use one controller from Avensis.
Hecbr »05 Apr 2017, 21:16
barseniy »07 Apr 2017, 08:12
The location of the electrical elements of the automatic transmission control system (U340E, U340F, U341E, U341F).
1 - throttle position sensor,
2 - engine coolant temperature sensor,
3 - the sensor of the frequency of rotation of the input shaft of the gearbox,
5 - solenoid valve for quality control of the torque converter lock-up (SLU),
6 - solenoid valve for pressure control in the main line (SLT),
7 - solenoid valve No. 3 (torque converter blocking),
8 - solenoid valve No. 1,
9 - solenoid valve No. 2,
10 - engine start prohibition switch,
11 - brake light switch,
13 - diagnostic connector DLC3,
14 - overdrive switch,
15 - selector lock control unit,
16 - electronic control unit for automatic transmission and engine.
Sponsored links. Shown only to unregistered users
I am starting the epic of replacing the automatic transmission U341E 03A with U340E 07A. I'm just tired of the jolts and protracted switching from 1-2 and vice versa. Yes, and replacing the filter with liquid on led to the investigation of the pallet and there are square aluminum granules. Also, with a sharp acceleration, you can hear the planetary tense and buzz with a whistle. During a long search for the box, only U340E 07A from PROBOCS or the so-called Neighbor was found. The choice fell on the U340E box because they are on repair kits from USA TRANSTAR, absolutely the same filling. In an extreme case, the crankcase will be different, all costs can be thrown, the first but minor difficulties appeared in docking with the 1ZZ-FE engine (to my engine), since the U340E was on the 1NZ engine and the transitional crankcase (bells) are different, you just have to throw your own. All other fasteners, i.e. switches and plugs, are also explored. Yes, I will also upload all the photos in the process, who have desires to join the process.
All about the Toyota Corolla Fielder. Forum on technical issues, information sections, photo gallery. Autoclub. Purchase and sale section.
Message REM »22 June 2012, 01:12
Message aVror »22 June 2012, 22:26
Hey !
about the box I can say compatible with yours is!
I myself was probably looking for a week for disassembly, but no one is engaged in disassembling diesel cars. After 3 days, I found the U341E box, but due to the carelessness of the servicemen, I had to put the 07 version, in contrast to 04, the full marking on the U341E-04 box, I put it from the gasoline rear sight U341E-07, it came up almost perfectly if not for 2 small amendments. In version 07, 8 control pins of the box are used (I could be mistaken), and in 04, 7 pins are used that come out of the wiring (I know for sure that the box has 1 less controller). And the second bell and torque converter (donut) had to be thrown from my old box to a new one.
After the installation of the contract box, small tremors appeared when shifting to an overdrive, it was only from 2 to 3 that I drove 5,000 km. A month ago, I changed the oil, the tremors went from 3 to 4, but I drive calmly.
I talked with people during the showdown, they explained that if the conclusions remain unused in the box, then they need to be planted on the ground and the type of tremors should disappear.
then write down how everything went by the way, as far as I remember, the box was put from a petrol selica engine like 1zz (I can make a mistake with the engine because I didn't attach any importance to it, I just needed that Phil could go tomorrow because there was an important trip ahead).
Message REM »23 Jun 2012, 14:33
aVror wrote: Hello!
about the box I can say compatible with yours is!
I myself was probably looking for a week for disassembly, but no one is engaged in disassembling diesel cars. After 3 days, I found the U341E box, but due to the carelessness of the servicemen, I had to put the 07 version, in contrast to 04, the full marking on the U341E-04 box, I put it from the gasoline rear sight U341E-07, it came up almost perfectly if not for 2 small amendments. In version 07, 8 control pins of the box are used (I could be mistaken), and in 04, 7 pins are used that come out of the wiring (I know for sure that the box has 1 less controller). And the second bell and torque converter (donut) had to be thrown from my old box to a new one.
After the installation of the contract box, small tremors appeared when shifting to an overdrive, it was only from 2 to 3 that I drove 5,000 km. A month ago, I changed the oil, the tremors went from 3 to 4, but I drive calmly.
I talked with people during the showdown, they explained that if the conclusions remain unused in the box, then they need to be planted on the ground and the type of tremors should disappear.
then write down how everything went by the way, as far as I remember, the box was put from a petrol selica engine like 1zz (I can make a mistake with the engine, because I didn't attach any importance to it, I just needed that Phil could go tomorrow because there was an important trip ahead).
Message REM »23 June 2012, 18:37
aVror wrote: Hello!
about the box I can say compatible with yours is!
I myself was probably looking for a week for disassembly, but no one is engaged in disassembling diesel cars. After 3 days, I found the U341E box, but due to the carelessness of the servicemen, I had to put the 07 version, in contrast to 04, the full marking on the U341E-04 box, I put it from the gasoline rear sight U341E-07, it came up almost perfectly if not for 2 small amendments. In version 07, 8 control pins of the box are used (I could be mistaken), and in 04, 7 pins are used that come out of the wiring (I know for sure that the box has 1 less controller). And the second bell and torque converter (donut) had to be thrown from my old box to a new one.
After the installation of the contract box, small tremors appeared when shifting to an overdrive, it was only from 2 to 3 that I drove 5,000 km. A month ago, I changed the oil, the tremors went from 3 to 4, but I drive calmly.
I talked with people during the showdown, they explained that if the conclusions remain unused in the box, then they need to be planted on the ground and the type of tremors should disappear.
then write down how everything went by the way, as far as I remember, the box was put from a petrol selica engine like 1zz (I can make a mistake with the engine because I didn't attach any importance to it, I just needed that Phil could go tomorrow because there was an important trip ahead).
Message aVror »24 June 2012, 10:33
if now she is lying while a friend in the garage and waiting in the wings.
And if about a breakdown it was so. I am driving along the road (this time, which is quite aggressive, which I usually don’t do, but I had to urgently get there) before entering the turn I brake (turn 90 degrees) at the exit from the turn I press the gas and I have a blow as if someone drove into the car from behind. Behind nobody I press the gas the car roars but more than 40 does not go. I drove 2 km in this mode until 40, then I press the gas, the connection of the box with the wheels is lost, the revolutions of 4-5 tons are lost and the car does not go - it just goes coasting. the speed is reset to 35, the connection with the wheels appears again and I go further. I drove the car and put it in 2 hours. Rendered box in emergency mode. He threw off the battery, tried to re-gas, tried to read the error codes (it did not work). After I found out that if you press the overdrayvto button, the car goes up to 130, but then I got to the service, I was glad that I had burned the clutches. 
I know it’s my own fault, but what to do, I thought I’ll take the box out of emergency mode.
I'll tell you another bedtime story. So!
I decided to change the butter in the box. 80,000 km of run - I think it's time. I stopped by the servicemen and asked around. 12 liters of oil, sump gasket, filter and 1600-1800 rubles for work. Well, no, I think! The crisis in the country - the toad woke up! I decided to do everything myself. I climbed the sites, read it, made up my mind! There were 3 options:
1.complete one-time replacement (with filter),
2.complete partial replacement method (with filter) and
3.simply partial (no filter).
Due to light financial difficulties (don't worry, you don't need to send money - we'll handle it!) I decided to change the oil fractionally, i.e. “Drain-fill” -drive- “drain-fill” -drive- “drain-remove the pallet-rinse-change the filter-fill in full”. I liked the option for the opportunity to ride until the next financial investment.
Related products: 150.0 ml syringe - 38 rubles + 10.0 mm hex key - 30 rubles.
There was a dropper (a system for intravenous infusion) lying around at home - I didn't buy it, but I used a tube and an adapter for this design.
So, all so proud of myself, I begin to drain the oil.
In the first photo, the same cork for a hexagon - suddenly, who does not know!
He returned the cork (pictured above) to his historical homeland, checked if it was leaking and began to push the tube from the dropper into the place where normal people hardly push the probe!
No, well, I, of course, shoved it! For the most "I do not want".
And then the funniest part of my story begins! For fun (just for fun!), Try to squeeze oil through this tube with a syringe! Ozhegov and Dal could have made a fortune by publishing what they heard at that moment.
Of course, this whole structure could not withstand the pressure! No, I'm not offended - at the same time I washed the engine!
But, getting tired dirty (after the 3rd syringe), I began to look for more suitable options! And, essessno, found the old hydraulic level. There is a tube about 1 cm in diameter. I docked a syringe and a new tube.
Is the difference in diameter noticeable?
After changing the tubing, the remaining 2.5 liters took 2 or 3 minutes.
And now a photo without comments.
I repeat - there were no complaints about the operation of the box. But after the last photos, I think that many will have a desire to change the liquid in the automatic transmission.
I drove 12-15 km - there is a difference - I hear the switch, but I don’t ochuchuyu greedy!
After 50 km, I replaced the next 3 liters. Shnyaga was much less. Taking into account "yesterday's experience", the replacement took 20-25 minutes (with two smoke breaks - well, I smoke a lot, I know!). The merged dextron was naturally more transparent.
I bought a filter - 1490 rubles, a filter gasket - 100 rubles. and pallet lining - 290 rubles.
The filter is one-piece construction. Inside there is some kind of material that looks like coarse felt. The name of this material, as I understand it, is MicroFelt.
Today I changed the oil and filter. I'm shocked. There is nothing to write about. As elementary as 2 fingers about. on the asphalt!
1. Drained the oil.
2. He took off 2 clips.
3. Peeled back the plastic protection.
4. I drank 0.5 liters of beer. ("Abakanskoe").
5. Unscrewed 19 bolts by 10.
6. He removed the pallet.
7. I drank 0.5 liters of beer. ("Abakanskoe"). While the rest of the oil dripped off.
8. Looked at the box.
9. Unscrew 3 bolts by 10 and removed the old filter.
10. Dropped 50 grams of dextron into the new filter, put the gasket and screwed it into place.
11. Sprayed Carb Cleaner on the pan and wiped it off with a rag.
12. Washed out the pan from the residues of Carb Cleaner with dextron, laid the gasket and hung it on 2 bolts.
13. I drank 0.5 liters of beer. ("Abakanskoe").
14. Tighten the remaining 17 bolts.
14-a. Filled in ATF. The volume of the poured is equal to the volume of the poured.
15. Started the engine and ran the box in all modes from “R” to “L” for 5-10 seconds each. I did not feel switching!
Everything.
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Video (click to play). |
Total: The first time I poured and poured exactly 3 liters (the remainder is 1 liter). The second time the same 3 liters (the remainder is 2 liters). I bought 2 more jars of 1 liter each. When removing the pallet, 4 liters merged (slowly, slowly). The same 4 liters (2 cans and leftovers from 2 4-liter) poured. The level is normal.
In total, it took me 10 liters to replace the dextron with removing the pallet and changing the filter.
