Do-it-yourself repair of the acrylic coating of a cast-iron bath

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the acrylic coating of a cast-iron bath from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A cast iron bathtub is a solid, durable plumbing fixture with an almost inexhaustible potential for repairability. If a small crack or chip appears on the enamel surface, it is not at all necessary to buy a new product, which costs at least 10-12 thousand rubles, it is quite possible to restore the appearance and functionality of the bowl by repairing the cast-iron bath with your own hands. In this article, we will tell you about 3 effective ways to restore cast iron plumbing fixtures.

If the enamel has a crack, chips, scuffs, and the bathtub itself turns yellow and becomes rough, there is no need to postpone the repair. In order for the result of the restoration to last longer and withstand mechanical stress, contact with water and temperature drops, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface for work. The preparatory stage, as a rule, takes more than half of the time and effort spent on restoring the enamel with your own hands. It consists of the following operations:

Cleansing from dirt. The surface of the bath is cleaned of dust and dirt with an ordinary alkaline-based detergent, and then rinsed abundantly with running water.

Important! Before starting work on the repair of plumbing equipment, you need to assess the feasibility of the event. If the damage is sporadic, then you can repair the bath yourself. In case of extensive damage and the presence of through holes, it is better to contact a professional.

A small chip up to 2 cm in diameter or a crack is the result of mechanical stress or point impacts; these are the most common damage that can be easily repaired locally by hand. It is better to close up such damage immediately after their detection with the help of a special putty and enamel. The chip sealing technology is as follows:

Video (click to play).

The area around the chip is cleaned of dirt with a detergent. It is better not to use abrasive products, as they aggravate the destruction of the enamel.

Please note that local repair of chips on the enamel surface gives a temporary effect, only postponing the time of more global events. Aerosol enamels do not hold well, but they are much easier to use.

If there are a lot of chips and cracks on the surface of the enamel, and rusty and lime deposits are added to them, it will not be possible to repair the bath with a patch with your own hands. To restore the original appearance of the old, badly damaged cast iron bathtub, staining is applied. Before applying coloring substances, the bowl is cleaned of dirt, the enamel coating is removed, degreased, and then thoroughly dried. The following means are used for painting:

The coating turns out to be even, smooth and glossy, it lasts at least 8-15 years, without turning yellow, since the thickness of its layer is at least 6 mm

Note! To paint the bath with your own hands, it is better to use liquid acrylic, since it is applied much easier and smoother than epoxy enamel.The disadvantage of this method is the high cost and long drying time.

If there is not one small crack on the surface of the old bathtub, but multiple chips and deformations, it can be repaired using a special acrylic insert. The acrylic insert is shaped exactly to the geometry of the old bowl, it is inserted inside it, and then fixed with adhesive foam and sealant. The disadvantages of this method are:

High price. A high-quality acrylic insert is expensive, the price of an insert is more than half of the cost of a cast iron bath.

Limited assortment. It can be difficult to choose an insert for a specific cast iron bath model, especially if it is not one of the standard ones.

The main advantage of the restoration of cast iron bathtubs using an acrylic insert is the effectiveness of the method, because it is used to restore bowls, even if they have through holes. Such an insert will last at least 15 years, for which it will definitely pay off.

Over time, the bathtub loses its attractive appearance. Smears and traces of rust appear, the gloss disappears, and it becomes rough to the touch. Everything suggests that it is time to change the old bathtub. And these are not small expenses. In addition, when replacing a bathtub, you cannot do without repairing the entire bathroom, and small costs will turn into medium, if not large. But there is an alternative - do-it-yourself bathroom restoration. There are a large number of materials on the market with which you can independently update your bath with proper quality.

There are now three methods for restoring old bathtubs:

1. Restoration of the enamelled bath surface.

2. Restoration with liquid acrylic.

3. Restoration by installing an insert.

Cast iron and steel enameled baths are the most common types of baths in our apartments. They are produced in accordance with GOST 18297-96, which has been in effect since 1997. According to this GOST, the baths are guaranteed for 2 years. But as practice shows, the enamel on them lasts no more than 10 years of use.

Enamel on baths in the factory is applied quite simply. First, the outer surface is heated red-hot, then enamel powder is sieved onto the inner surface and kept for some time to sinter the powder with the metal. Heat the outer surface again until the powder is melted. The result is a smooth, glossy enamel finish. It is clear that at home this method of restoration of a cast-iron bathtub, as well as a steel one, is not suitable.

The wear of the enamelled surface occurs as a result of the influence of two factors:

Use of cleaning agents containing abrasive powders or substances with chlorine impurities.
The use of chemicals when cleaning water supply networks.

As a result of many years of exposure to these factors, the enamelled surface of the bath becomes thinner, becomes rough and begins to rust.

Do-it-yourself enamel restoration is a fairly simple process. It consists of two stages: surface preparation and applying a new layer of enamel.

You will need the following tools and materials:

electric drill with a nozzle in the form of a grinding wheel;
abrasive powder;
sandpaper;
rust converter (for example, "Tsinkar");
degreaser (for example, "Nefras");
lint-free napkin;
natural bristle brushes or spray;
respirator and gloves;
enamel, preferably two-component (enamel plus hardener).

A very important stage. The more thoroughly the bath surface is cleaned, the better the new enamel layer will be.

sprinkle the old enamel with abrasive powder and clean it off with sandpaper or a grinding wheel mounted on an electric drill;
treat the areas affected by corrosion with a rust converter, let it stand for half an hour, then sand it with sandpaper;
wash off enamel and crumbs with water;
thoroughly treat the bath with a degreaser with a lint-free cloth;
fill the tub with hot water and let it warm up for 10 minutes;
drain and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth; make sure that there are no fluff or other foreign elements on the surface.

according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix enamel and hardener in a certain proportion and mix thoroughly;
apply the first layer of enamel with a brush or spray;
withstand a certain period of time according to the instructions;
apply a second layer of enamel.

This concludes the process of restoring an enamel bathtub with your own hands. It is advisable to withstand at least a week before using the bath. This is how much time it takes for the full polymerization of the enamel.

The service life of the new enamel will be about 6-8 years.

This method of bath restoration appeared relatively recently, thanks to the emergence of a special material - glass.Stacril is a two-component acrylic material specially developed for bath restoration. It is acrylic itself and a separately supplied hardener. When acrylic and hardener are combined, the polymerization process begins, and when applied to the surface, the composition turns into a high-quality acrylic film with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm.Stacril has three remarkable properties that help it quickly and effectively restore a bathtub:The optimally matched viscosity index of the glass helps to effortlessly make an acrylic coating with a thickness of 4 mm on the walls of the bath and 6 mm on its bottom.2. FluidityThe flowing effect allows the glass to envelop the surface of the bathtub on its own and lay down evenly.3. Delayed polymerizationThanks to this quality, you can calmly and relatively comfortably carry out work on the restoration of the bathtub, without fear that the acrylic will harden too quickly.After polymerization, the acrylic surface has mechanical and impact resistance far superior to the acrylic liner or enamel layer.The technology of restoration of baths with liquid acrylic is even simpler than the enameling process and consists in the following:This stage does not differ from the variant of restoration of the enamelled surface. Repeat the same steps. Then disconnect the siphon and place a container under the bath drain where excess acrylic will drain.

we prepare the acrylic mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions;

slowly pour the finished mixture onto the upper edge of the bath, as soon as the stream reaches the middle, we begin to smoothly move the stream of glass around the perimeter of the bath;

when the circle is closed, we repeat the procedure, starting from the middle.

The pouring restoration process must take place continuously, for this you need to take a glass container of a suitable size. It is not worth saving - it is better to pour out a little more acrylic than it will lack, the excess will go into the container under the drain hole.Acrylic polymerizes, depending on the type, from one to four days. Choose a glass glass with a longer drying time, in which case the acrylic surface will be of higher quality.The restored bath will have a service life of about 20 years.

Do-it-yourself acrylic bathtub

There are a couple of ways that you can update the look of a product without huge financial investments: special inserts and restoration of the bath cover with liquid acrylic or enamel.

Enamel application is a complex and time-consuming process that requires experience and skill. Therefore, most often, preference is given to acrylic coating.It is acrylic that is recognized as the simplest and most reliable material, the use of which during restoration work does not require knowledge and the presence of special tools.

Content of step-by-step instructions:

For the restoration of the bathtub coating, two types of acrylic-based material are most often used: liquid acrylic (snow-white paintwork with a high mass of non-volatile components) and stacril (acrylic + epoxy enamel).

The material can be ready-to-use or consisting of 2 components that need to be mixed together. When combined, these components form a composition that, when solidified, differs in strength and resistance to stress and temperature changes. There are several popular brands of acrylic coating "Epoxin", "Plastall", "Stakril".

Liquid acrylic in the form of a coating on a bath retains its appearance and protective properties for more than 14 years, with the condition of correct and gentle use.

Liquid acrylic in the form of a coating on the bath retains its appearance and protective properties for more than 14 years

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The finished material does not thicken, spreads in an even layer, no air bubbles form in its thickness

Many experts prefer the two-component material "Stakril" and its analogs mentioned above. Unlike cheaper pouring bath materials that have appeared on the market, it has many advantages.

The bathtub remains snow-white throughout the entire service life.
No sagging during application and the formation of an even protective layer during restoration work.
No bubbles or unevenness.
Good mixing of ingredients.

Add the hardener that comes with the kit to Stakril and stir it thoroughly for 10 minutes

Acrylic and hardener.
A stick for mixing the components of the coating.
Solvent.
Rubber or plastic spatula.
Grinder or drill for bath preparation. The attachments must be equipped with sandpaper discs.
Oxalic acid for removing rust (if the bath is damaged by corrosion).
Automotive filler in case of large chips on the surface.

Before you ennoble the bath, you need to very carefully prepare its surface. If this is not done, the acrylic coating will spread unevenly and all chips and depressions will be visible. If there is rust and it is not removed before the restoration of the bathtub, after a while it will "lift" the coating and show through on the walls.

Bathtub surface treatment

The first stage of the preparatory work is the removal of the old coating. If the bathtub is very old and its inner walls are significantly damaged, then the old layer of enamel should be completely removed.

To do this, using a grinder or a drill with a nozzle, you need to carefully grind every centimeter of the bath. During this work, a lot of dust can form, it is advisable to protect the respiratory organs during this work.

If the damage on the old coating is minor, then you can simply sand it off with sandpaper.

The second stage of the preparatory work is cleaning the surface of the bath from dust during grinding. It is washed off with warm water, carefully examined for the remaining old enamel, not polished chips, rust spots. If everything is in order, they begin to degrease the surface, if not, continue the preparation.

The second stage of the preparatory work - cleaning the surface of the bath from dust during grinding

Experts recommend repairing deep chips and scratches with automotive filler, this will reduce the work with a sander or drill. After application, the putty is cleaned with fine-grained emery paper.

Degreasing is carried out using a solvent. If there is no such substance, then ordinary soda can be used. Several packs of soda are diluted in warm water to a puree consistency and applied to the inner walls of the bath.Every centimeter of the surface must be treated, otherwise liquid acrylic in untreated places may form an air bubble and chip during operation.

The next step is to heat the bath with hot water. To do this, you need to take a full bath of the hottest liquid from the tap and wait half an hour. Then the water is drained, the surface of the bath is quickly wiped off with an absolutely clean cloth with a lint-free surface.

The bath must be completely dry before pouring.

Then the water drains are dismantled. A container is placed under the lower one, into which the remnants of acrylic will be drained, under the upper one is covered with cellophane, which protects the floor from drops of material. It is also recommended to cover the entire floor around the bathtub to avoid damaging its appearance with white drops of acrylic coating.

Then the water drains are dismantled

Before mixing the components, it is important to keep them indoors for several hours. Mix acrylic and hardener gradually, in small doses. After thorough mixing, the mixture should stand for 15-20 minutes. Only after curing can the material be applied.

The rims of the bathtub, which border the wall, are poured first.

The rims of the bathtub, which border the wall, are poured first. You need to pour it gently, in a small stream. Use a trowel to carefully level the material against the wall. Then proceed to the outer side. It is important to cast so that the acrylic does not drip to the floor. In this case, the flowing material should reach approximately to the middle of the walls of the bath.

Then proceed to the outer side

When working, you need to focus on ensuring that acrylic is applied to the walls in an even layer, 3-5 mm. After the first round of pouring, you should proceed to the second. Acrylic is poured in the same thin stream onto the walls of the bath along the perimeter. You need to pour the material until it covers the entire bath.

In order to level the sagging at the bottom of the container, you can use a spatula to run along the bottom of the bath in zigzag movements, achieving an even distribution of the material. This must be done carefully, without touching the bottom of the container. If, nevertheless, there are influences and irregularities, do not worry: the composition will even out itself during the drying process, and the excess acrylic will drain into a special container under the lower drain.

To smooth out the beads at the bottom of the tank, you can use a spatula to draw along the bottom of the bath in zigzag movements.

After finishing the walls, the bath will dry after 36 hours. More information on these material properties can be found in the instructions.

But experts recommend starting to use the bath in a few days after the restoration - this will extend the life of the coating.

The last stage of work is the connection of plumbing communications to the updated bath.

Experts recommend starting to use the bath a few days after restoration.

Before starting work, it is required to thoroughly mix the acrylic in a bucket. Pay special attention to the bottom and walls. Thus, the material becomes homogeneous, with a uniform consistency.

Do not heat liquid acrylic, as its viscosity decreases. This can lead to the fact that all the material simply flows down and a very thin layer remains on the walls. Use the material at room temperature, after keeping it indoors for 5-6 hours.

If you want to change the color of the bath, you can use tinting paste. This material is added during the mixing of the components.It is important to know that the amount of color should not exceed 4% of the total mass of liquid acrylic. This will help to avoid changes in the strength characteristics of the coating. The color of the bath will be muted when adding color.

Despite the fact that acrylic coating positions itself as strong and durable, it can be damaged if not properly maintained. It is strictly prohibited to use acids, abrasive powders, metal sponges for cleaning the bathroom. These cleaners will quickly leave deep scratches and ruin the finish.To clean a refurbished bathtub, special liquid acrylic products are suitable, which can be found in any household chemical store. They will not only keep the surface intact, but also enhance the mirror shine. Image - DIY repair of the acrylic coating of a cast iron bathtub

Let your new bathtub delight you as long as possible!

Like any coating, the enamel becomes thinner over time, rust spots, stains, chips appear on it. When the most effective abrasive chemical cleaners fail to fix the problem, most owners decide to switch equipment.

But after assessing the laboriousness of installation work with material costs, they begin to look for alternative options associated with updating the old cast-iron bath. Despite the aesthetically unsightly appearance, the design, which is quite suitable for performing the main function in accordance with all operational characteristics, will last another half a century. It's all about the enamel coating. This means that something new is required, and thanks to new technologies, this manipulation is carried out in the shortest possible time.

A radical method is to replace the plumbing tank. First of all, you need to calculate how much this procedure will cost. Let's summarize the cost of an ordinary classic bathtub with the costs of its delivery, including transportation and loading, taking into account the required floor. Dismantling of old equipment and installation of new ones are carried out in accordance with the company's price list. According to the most conservative estimates, at least 13,000 rubles will be needed. This is without taking into account damage to the wall and floor coverings, which is inevitable in any type of installation work. Partial replacement of cracked fragments and cosmetic repairs will be required. Conclusion - getting rid of the old one and installing a new one is quite troublesome and costly.

Wouldn't it be better to think about restoration, given the good functionality of an old bathtub with a thinned or washed off white surface? Moreover, a large amount does not guarantee an excellent result, since the purchase of the least budgetary capacity was originally meant. When choosing a better quality, convenient or design project, costs can increase significantly. If this method is not suitable for the owners, they think about affordable and effective restoration options. It is important to approach this issue competently, choosing the optimal solution.

Restoration of the old surface layer by "pouring" acrylic is the most popular method. The know-how technology was highly appreciated by the majority of consumers due to its simplicity and low cost. With this method, a liquid synthetic mass is poured onto the inner lining of the bathroom.

Advantages of bulk acrylic:

•
long-term durability. When applied correctly, the service life is calculated for a period of 8-15 years;
•
Due to the density and plasticity of synthetics, an even smooth surface structure is formed;
•
The flowable mass smooths out all kinds of defects and scratches
•
Acrylic is applied at a high speed, a simple application technology allows you to bring the volumetric layer of the surface up to 6 mm.
•
The filling is characterized by the absence of a specific smell, so allergy sufferers, children and the elderly will not need another home for the duration of the renovation.
Significant disadvantages of bulk acrylic are:

• long drying of the composition - 3 days
• Coating sensitivity. It is unacceptable for dust, dust to enter the drying plane, otherwise it will deteriorate.
• The apparent apparent simplicity of the technological operation is extremely deceptive. In fact, pouring acrylic requires certain skills in working with a liquid mass.
• Relatively high material costs in comparison with enameling. But the cost pays off given the increased service life and high quality.

Painting is often considered the oldest restoration method, when a special enamel is applied to a worn-out coating. The owner should be thinking about how to freshen up old equipment? There are two types of enamels: for professional use and for household purposes. The structure of the first is the thinnest, you will need to apply at least 3-5 layers. This is a laborious procedure. The latter are characterized by a thicker structure and, accordingly, two-layer styling is easier to apply. Apply the liquid coating with a roller or brush, trying to spread it evenly over the cleaned canvas.

Advantages of the enameling method:

• is the most economical restoration option;

• there is no need to dismantle the drain and the overflow does not require reconstruction;

• this method is intended not only for cast iron products, but also for steel containers.

Enameling has the following disadvantages:

•
insignificant service life, less than 5 years;
•
drying time is about a week;
•
at the exit, the coating is non-glossy, uneven, sensitive to deformations;
•
a thin layer of enamel is not able to mask dents, chips, which may appear over time;
•
the appearance of a yellow tint during operation, since the original factory epoxy coating is radically different in composition.
Cold enameling is considered the cheapest and easiest restoration method. It can be compared to painting the canvas with a special compound. To extend the life of the enamel, you must heed the following recommendations:

• cleaning the renewed cast-iron coating requires not abrasive cleaning agents that damage the integrity of the coating, but a solution of washing powder or soap;
• the new container must be protected from impacts, sharp objects can scratch the acrylic sheet;
• the enamel does not tolerate boiling water, it can crack. When filling the bath, before opening the tap with hot water, cold water is first turned on, and not vice versa.

For option 3, additional equipment will be required - an acrylic insert, which is mounted using the "bath in bath" method. This two-layer construction will last about 15 years. At the same time, a new acrylic insert is installed inside the old structure, which ideally follows its outline. The stability of the additional element is ensured by means of technical adhesive foam.

This method has advantages:

•
acrylic is a more durable material than enamel;
•
due to perfect alignment, all defects and deformations of the cast iron sheet are smoothed out;
•
inert material does not turn yellow until the end of the service;
•
the two-layer construction successfully combines all the advantages of acrylic and cast iron.

Disadvantages of acrylic liner:

•
dismantling of the drain siphon will be required;
•
it is forbidden to apply the acrylic structure to areas of lightweight or thin cast iron, otherwise the bath sags and the adhesive layer moves away from the fixing insert;
•
in the bathtub method, the materials must meet the standards. Low-quality inserts or a composition not intended for gluing metal will negate all efforts;
•
requires careful measurement of the insert, down to the millimeter. The slightest discrepancy with the parameters of the basic structure is unacceptable.
All 3 restoration methods are simple and effective, they provide preliminary degreasing and removal of dirt and limescale. You can get rid of greasy marks by using oxalic acid or baking soda.Then proceed to a thorough cleaning, removing plaque and deformed fragments until a flat plane is obtained. The next stage is grinding, the purpose of the bark is to obtain a rough surface. Unevenness of the web on contact with the adhesive will ensure maximum adhesion.

Having weighed all the pros and cons, the owner must decide: to dismantle or restore the much-needed plumbing equipment. But with competent and qualified restoration work using high quality materials, the updated bathtub will look like new. If possible, you should trust experienced craftsmen who have proven themselves on the good side. Then an excellent result for a relatively small amount of money is provided.

Video (click to play).

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