DIY active acoustics repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of active acoustics from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In general, we will talk about another Chinese product from 4U. During the operation of the acoustics, at first the background of the alternating current was heard for some time, and then the sound went with strong distortions.

There can be three options for malfunctions: the power supply, the input preamplifier and tone control circuits, and the output amplifier. As the latter, the painfully familiar TDA2030 is installed.

Since the indicator of the signal and operating modes of the acoustics itself is on, it is possible to exclude the failure of the transformer. This already simplifies the matter, since it is not always possible to find one that is similar to the required voltages and currents.

Now let's check the power supply - rectifier and diode bridge. Here we see a significant voltage imbalance. Moreover, even after disconnecting the UMZCH microcircuit from the power supply (by unsoldering the jumpers on the board), the voltages of the positive and negative channels are still different.

The dialing of the diodes did not give anything, but the test of the electrolytic capacitors revealed the hero of the occasion immediately. It turned out to be a 3300μF 25V power filter capacitor, which gave a large leak.

Replacing it with a similar one and restoring the power supply to the microcircuits - the amplifier worked clearly and without hum. As you can see, not only Soviet electrolytes tend to dry out. Capacitors in a power supply unit experience a constant dynamic load, therefore, they also sometimes wear out and lose capacity.

Then it remains only to drive the repaired acoustics out for at least an hour in test mode (suddenly there will be a problem again) and assemble the amplifier back into the case. At this, the repair of active speakers 4U E-260 can be considered successfully completed.

Video (click to play).

Acoustic systems are divided into active, passive, the difference is limited by the presence of sound processing chips inside, powered by electric current. Amplifiers, filters, interfaces for reading flash media, decoding compressed audio formats. In the latter case, the speaker system approximates the functionality of the player. Consider what to do when the speakers are not working. The speakers include a myriad of sound reproducing devices, readers are interested in how they repair speakers with their own hands. You will need special glue. In the days of the USSR, BF 4, AK 20. Solvents are selected accordingly (based on glue). It will be necessary, disassembling, dismantling the connection, and repairing the speaker system yourself.

A movable part with a rigid plate creates air vibrations that are perceived by the human ear.

Do-it-yourself repair of acoustic systems, doubting how the device works, is supposed to use the principle - do not harm. Regardless of the size, the speaker of the speaker system is formed by electrical, mechanical parts. The first is formed mainly by inductors. The second includes a permanent magnet, a membrane. Here is an incomplete classification of speakers of acoustic systems.

Readers are familiar with naturally occurring audio reproducing devices. There is not always a coil in the speaker system. Therefore, before the repair, in the process, the master performs the correct classification of the devices, properly carrying out the necessary operations.

Partially touched the device. Let's consider in more detail the electrodynamic models. The diffuser forms the support for the cap. It is represented by the semblance of a wide horn on which the coil is glued from the back side. Flexible copper conductors that carry an electric current, punching the diffuser from the inside, fit directly to the membrane cap. The soldering points are visible from the front of the speaker.The coil is light; it is required to provide a relatively low inertia of the system. Even the tuning fork A of the first octave lies at 440 Hz. It is clear that for fluctuations of the indicated speed, the moving part of the speaker of the acoustics must be light.

The magnet is fixed on the bed. Usually circular. An inductor runs in both directions in the hole, moving the cap-membrane assembly. The connecting wires make constant vibrations. A centering washer is used to position the movable part along the vertical, horizontal axis. Perforated piece of elastic material, centering the location of the cap, diffuser. The centering washer does not interfere with the displacement of the moving part along the axis of symmetry. The repair is ridiculously simple:

Since the membrane and cap do not break, it is a matter of checking the electrical installation, the soldering points of the wires, the integrity of the coil.

Inductance is wound in the image and likeness of the old one. Each layer of turns is coated with BF 4 glue. Poor soldering is performed anew. Select the appropriate inductance winding technique. Usually a special device is made, formed by two pairs of racks, standing opposite each other on a long board. Both are connected by axles. One contains the core of the new coil, the other contains the purchased wire. It is recommended to buy the wire with varnish insulation. It is necessary to maintain the correct thickness. You can measure using a vernier caliper.

Winding is relatively fast while the glue dries. The coils fit tightly to one another, adhering to the shuttle principle. It is important to maintain the correct number of turns, properly position the terminals.

It is often necessary to disassemble a speaker of a speaker system for repair. Stock up on solvent. The glued joints are wetted, waiting for a fixed time. Please note: the joints are carefully cleaned. It is made regardless of the glue used to assemble the speaker of the speaker system.

Speakers are different types of speaker systems, each with a limited frequency response. Everyone works as a kind of mechanical filter. However, it happens that you need to shift the range ... You can raise the resonance frequencies of the electrodynamic system by varnishing the centering washer. Used 5-10% solution of ZAPON, cellulose in acetone. The varnish is applied with a soft brush in a circle. Avoid misaligning the moving part of the loudspeaker. Consecutively performing the operations, we will increase the resonance frequency by 1.5–2 times, approximately one octave.

To lower the range, weights should be glued to the moving part. The correct ring of cardboard is attached to the back of the diffuser. It is necessary to more precisely maintain the symmetry of the arrangement of the parts. The sound pressure drops rapidly. The volume decreases, the range is narrowed from the high frequency side. However, in the area of resonance, the loudspeaker will perform well.

You can expand the range in both directions (if there is no cap). In the center, from the front, a truncated cone is glued above the inductance coil of the speaker of the speaker system. The mass is made as small as possible. Thin, thick paper impregnated with ZAPON varnish will do. The top plate is equal to the coil, the height is half the cone, the taper is 70 degrees. Due to the increase in the mass of the moving part, the resonant frequency decreases, but the upper edge of the range rises, thanks to the rigid core, which is harder than the diffuser. As a result, the spectrum of the reproduced sounds expands in both directions. The total increase will be one and a half or two octaves, the game is worth the candle. Take care to correctly configure the electronic part: if there are passive filters on capacitors and resistors, they will limit (cut off) the capabilities of the mechanics.

Craftsmen increase the sound pressure at the resonant frequency for an unshielded magnetic system. Try to find one or a similar set ring. Then glue the second magnet on the reverse side of the one standing, the interaction of the fields will increase, therefore, the strength of the sound will increase.

The speaker system is simple and can break, they said. We hope the renovation goes off without a hitch.

Well, good all the time of the day chtol)))

In general, I don’t want to write much, in short the essence ...
in the distant distant times, when dinosaurs roamed the vastness of our immense homeland, and most of the Russians faked without a gap on the vaz2106 cars, they got the Ivolga ovals from the wheelbarrow ... and this is how it all started ...
In general, the owner did not like them very much, and they were barbarously thrown into the garage just on the floor, for at least 2 3 winters they literally froze into the ice in the spring when everything melts on the street and frost at night ... In general, the fate of these speakers cannot be envied)))

Well, I repeat, these columns are somewhere for a vskidku years 8 9 at least probably)))
Well, given my passion for sound in a car, I took them home))

The diagnosis was quite funny, the diff, well, not directly jammed tightly, but it was sooooo difficult to move and get into a wedge in any position, the hand did not rise to the wedge)))
The joke was in a specifically shitty coil and a skewed magnet

And then, an idea hit me in my head, why not try to disassemble it to Vinik Din and clean it and if it’s not something to repair)))
Well said done) I read a couple of posts on how to repair subs, and voila, I became a guru in this matter)))))

Speaker systems can be active or passive. Internally, they have different microcircuits used to process audio.
In order for the sound to be of high quality, many devices are used to reproduce it. But all these devices cannot be seen with the naked eye, since they are located inside.
But everyone who owns them should know how the repair of loudspeakers takes place. Repair of acoustic buttons and other elements can be done with your own hands, if you know the speaker device.
In our case, we will consider the situation when the speaker speakers stopped working. You need to purchase special glue in advance, which may be needed during the repair process.
In general, any quick-drying glue you can find will do. It may just happen that during dismantling you will have to disassemble the glued joints. After that, they will need to be collected back somehow.

Before you start repairing your loudspeakers, you should know how the system works. This is necessary in order not to harm her in the process of performing certain actions.
Despite the size of the speaker, it has two components: mechanical and electrical. The first includes an induced current coil.
The second contains a magnet and a special membrane. At first glance, this mechanism seems to be simple, but it is not.
For this, you may need a speaker classification:

Reel to reel. Their principle of operation resembles the operation of a gas water heater (used to heat water). The ring of the magnet makes it move due to the formation of current in it.

Note: the device will work as long as all the turns of the coil are intact. Therefore, if the coil speaker does not work, then first of all you should pay attention to the integrity of the coil.

Tape. In this case, the variable magnet is a narrow corrugation.
At the same time, there is no coil inside, as in the previous version. To use such a device, you must purchase matching transformers in advance, which must be connected to the circuit.
Most often, these transformers are already installed from the factory.

Note: it is their presence or absence that allows you to quickly find out the type of speaker.

Isodynamic, which include a square or round spiral.It carries out circular movements together with the membrane, being under the influence of a magnetic field.

Electrostatic speakers. Their main difference is that they work without any movement. The current is initially already in the circuit, so you do not need to take any action for it to be formed.
In this case, the membrane moves a little, but it does not perform any translational movements.

Note: They are ideal for high frequency speakers.

Capacitor, which includes two electrodes. One of them is quite massive, since it performs an important function - the supply of variable potential.
It acts as a support for the second electrode. By the way, instead of the second, you can use a foil twisted into a thin tube.
There are also other types of speakers, but only the most popular and common ones were considered.

The speakers work as follows:

Thin wires go to the cap located on the membrane. The cap itself is attached with a diffuser.
So these wires pierce it so that they have access directly to the cap.
The coil should be light, as it is necessary to achieve low inertia in the system. After all, the frequency of oscillations in the dynamics is enormous, therefore, in order to move at such a speed, the moving part of the speaker does not have to be heavy.
The magnet is stationary. Most often it is in the shape of a ring. A coil with an induced current is located in the hole.
As a rule, it moves back and forth. It also sets in motion a membrane with a cap.
The connecting wires are also in constant motion. So that the moving parts do not move from their place, they are connected in the center with a special washer, which helps to ensure that the axis of symmetry is not violated.

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Speaker repair is a fairly straightforward process. The cap and membrane rarely break.
Most often, the coil fails. You should also check the soldering points of the wires, as it is possible that one of them has come off.

The old turns should be removed.

Wrap inductance on the coil as it was on the old one.

Each layer should be carefully greased with glue so that the turns are not moving.

Note: it is because of the high mobility that the turns can break. Therefore, you need to do everything possible to ensure that they are fixed in the best possible way.

The wire can be wound in any convenient way. The simplest option is to take two racks.
Place them parallel to each other and connect with an axis. Place the core on one side and the store wire on the other. The wiring should be wound quickly until the glue is dry.

Note: the wire must be lacquered.
First, it will improve its quality, so it will not rip as quickly. And secondly, it will be less likely that a short circuit will occur in the system.

The coils fall on top of each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there is a sufficient number of revolutions.
In addition, you need to correctly place the conclusions.

Acoustic speaker in the car

Quite often, in the process of repairing loudspeakers, you have to disassemble the speakers. Therefore, you should stock up on solvent before starting repairs.
All glued joints must be moistened with glue and wait a while. Particular attention is paid to cleaning the joints.
Thus, you can do the repair of speakers with your own hands, without leaving your home. Initially, you need to purchase glue, the price of which is scanty.
Before starting the repair yourself, you also need to review the photos and videos with this topic, of which there are a lot on the Internet. Instructions on this will also come in handy.

The book deals with practical issues related to the repair of personal computers at home or office.

After reading it, you will learn about methods for eliminating common computer malfunctions, learn how to check its performance, identify devices that have failed, and select a suitable replacement for them. The pages of this publication provide recommendations on how to prevent problems and keep your computer running. The material is presented in a simple and intelligible form, so even a novice user will be able to understand it.

Speaker malfunctions

Despite the fact that the speakers look like very reliable devices, they can fail just like the rest of the PC. Moreover, the reason for their failure does not have to be a factory defect, often a defect occurs through the fault of the user. First of all, like any other technology, acoustic systems do not like to operate at their maximum power. Why? When the volume knob is turned to maximum, the power supply generates the most power. Usually, the built-in power supply in acoustic systems is designed to operate at rated power, and when it rises to the maximum, it starts to warm up, its circuit elements operate under heavy load. If the power LED on the front panel of the speaker starts blinking to the beat of the music, this indicates that the power supply unit is working at its limit and the probability of its failure is high. This should not be allowed. It is recommended to listen to multimedia speakers at a maximum of 70-80% of the maximum power. Also, the power supply unit often fails with voltage drops.

A defective power supply unit can be repaired by replacing the failed element in it. The AC does not use impulse power supplies. They are made according to the traditional scheme.

If you cannot find the appropriate replacement element, then based on the specification of the integrated low-frequency amplifier (ULF) microcircuit, you should determine the necessary power parameters: nominal voltage, power. It is easier to find out the microcircuit specification in reference books or on the Internet. If the power supply unit cannot be repaired, then it remains to build a power supply unit into the AC, similar in operating parameters. It can be purchased from specialist retailers, radio markets, or online. For an enthusiastic radio amateur, it will not be difficult to make a power supply that is suitable in terms of electrical parameters and design.

Failure of the power supply unit in the AC, though frequent, is not the only defect. It happens that the amplifier microcircuit breaks down, it is completely subject to replacement. However, first you need to decide whether such a replacement is economically justified. In the case of inexpensive speakers, it is most likely easier to replace the speakers themselves if you cannot find the required ULF microcircuit on sale.

If the amplifier fails, the issue is resolved by replacing either the outgoing element or the entire amplifier. If it is not possible to replace the built-in amplifier, it is not difficult for a radio amateur to assemble an amplifier circuit similar in parameters and dimensions. Also on sale there are ready-made kits - a board with parts from which the amplifier is assembled. Before replacing, make sure that it is he who is out of order. Use a multimeter to check the amplifier output.

Loudspeakers - speakers fail much less often. However, it may be necessary to replace a speaker whose sound is impaired - “wheezing”. Such a loudspeaker can "sit down", for example, after prolonged operation at maximum power, the speaker breaks, or if it is accidentally pierced with a sharp object, etc. You should choose a loudspeaker that matches the damaged type, size, power, resistance.

Installing a low impedance speaker instead of a high impedance speaker is not worth it.For example, if you install a 4-ohm speaker instead of an 8-ohm speaker, you run the risk of damaging the amplifier. The opposite is possible, but the playback power will then decrease.

In specialized workshops and service centers, they can rewind a burned-out loudspeaker winding.

The reason for the "wheezing" of the speaker in some cases is a speaker breakdown - a poor-quality conductor connecting the external speaker terminal with the coil winding. If the conductor is broken, then the speaker (column) does not work. The repair consists in replacing the conductor. If there is no corresponding wire on sale, take it from another non-working speaker. When replacing, attach the conductor securely to the diffuser. Better to fix with epoxy.

If the volume or frequency controls are broken, a crackling sound is heard from the speakers while adjusting the corresponding parameters. Regulators (variable resistors) must be replaced with new ones and re-soldered. Their cost is low. However, if you want (cannot) replace them, try to repair them. Lubrication of the graphite surface, on which the middle contact slider moves, will get rid of unwanted overtones and “wheezing”.

Remove the potentiometer, disassemble and look at the graphite surface.

If you can see a deep groove drawn by the slider, then either you need to replace it, or, if the design allows it, to move the surface a little, so that the slider walks on the non-jaded surface.

If the surface is still in working order, it is advisable to clean it of dirt and dust with isopropyl alcohol before lubrication. It is recommended to use KONTAKT WL aerosol lubricant to lubricate the graphite surface. Then apply grease to the graphite coating. Sometimes they are lubricated with machine oil, technical vaseline, transformer oil. Of course, there will be benefits. But, most likely, over time, such a lubricant will deteriorate properties. Better to apply a lubricant designed for this.

Special solutions are sold on radio markets and in online stores, but they can gradually dry out. After lubrication, spread the grease over the surface with several turns.

Using a multimeter is a good idea to check the change in resistance as you rotate.

Sometimes it is necessary to press the slider slightly for tighter contact, but not hard. A soldering iron, an awl and tweezers will help you with your work.

A large part of the defects are associated with improper connection, malfunctioning connecting cables, as well as problems with the sound card and incorrect settings in the PC, drivers, etc. The cable usually breaks due to careless connection and disconnection of the plug to the sound source. All connections must be reliable with good contact.

To check if the amplifier of active speaker systems is working, it is enough to connect the plug to a regular player. Or just touch the plug - the audio input of the speaker systems with your finger and listen: when you turn the volume control knob, the “hiss” from the speakers should increase. In some cases, a blown fuse is the cause of an amplifier or subwoofer inoperative.

When using speakers, try not to place them near heating devices, and unplug them in a thunderstorm.

Microphones and headphones are susceptible to malfunctions. Most of the defects arise from improper use, careless handling, and carelessness. Malfunctions often occur due to breakage of contacts or their violation. If microphones are used in a studio, the cables running through the studio should be protected from damage. When laying audio cables, you should try to keep them away from electrical wiring as much as possible. Condenser microphones are not recommended to be carried or even moved while energized. In general, microphones are sensitive to shock, vibration and shock during operation. Ribbon microphones require increased attention during operation, since they are as sensitive as possible.

Always try to take precautions. Do not connect speakers to a powered amplifier. When connecting, do not allow short circuits between conductors. Do not expose the surface of the equipment to sunlight. Radiator fins on amplifiers or subwoofers must not be covered by anything. In addition, small children may be the source of defects, having thrown metal objects inside, clogging the port of the phase inverter with small toys.

Change the batteries in the control panels in a timely manner, do not allow them to oxidize. Try to use quality batteries and AA batteries. Even a new battery is not immune to the fact that it does not hold a charge, especially if from a little-known manufacturer. To charge the batteries, purchase a microprocessor-tested charger.

In the case when there are no communication wires, it is easy to make them yourself.

The audio wire should be three-core with a common screening braid or with a braid shielding each core. The shielding braid is a "braided mesh" made of copper wire, the solid braid better shields the signal from interference. You will need RCA connectors and a 3-pin Minijack.

If there is no three-core wire, a regular ball screw will do. Lead one core of this wire outside as a "minus". Connectors from old wires and headphones are quite suitable. You will need plastic clamps or electrical tape and heat shrink tubing of the appropriate diameter.

Clean Minijack, solder wire. A heat-shrinkable tube is put on top, after which it is fired with a match or a lighter. Do not keep the lighter in one place for a long time to avoid charring the pipe. A building hair dryer is a good choice, with an average temperature of 150-200 ° C.

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Disassemble the RCA connectors, solder the corresponding wires to their two "pluses". Then a "minus" is soldered to one of them together with a piece of wire that will go to the "minus" of the second connector. Collect connectors and burn.

In order not to dangle the "negative" wire, fix it with electrical tape or plastic clamps.

I needed speakers for a DVD player. It was not possible to buy something worthwhile right away. Then I remembered about the old domestic 15AS-109, which had long settled on the balcony.

In general, the speakers are not bad, but their pristine appearance (Fig. 1) was not at all in harmony with the player. I decided to dig deeper with both the filling and the appearance of the speaker. To begin with, I replaced the 25 GDNZ-4 LF heads in the AC. Having stood for eighty and a shaggy year, the rubber suspension of the diffuser seemed to me dry and inelastic.

I had newer heads, therefore, this did not cause additional costs. Despite the many publications and recommendations on improving the crossover filters, I did not touch them. I decided not to experiment yet, because, in my opinion, the native filters work quite well. Purely subjective, of course.

After disassembling the speakers, I found a lot of interesting things in them. Only 2-3 veins were soldered in the wires that fit the heads. Rubber gaskets for the woofer were scattered inside the case. One gasket for the tweeter head was installed as usual, the other was not at all. The seats for the heads are milled on only one column and only for the woofer head.

Plus, it's only 0.5mm deep. This caused the main difficulties, the flanges of the heads and the plastic pipe of the phase inverter turned out not to be recessed into the frontal board, but located outside, rising above it by about 5 mm (Fig. 2). The semicircular screw heads increase the height by an additional 3 mm. This does not allow to overlay and attach on top of a new halyimord made of some pretty sheet material.

As such a material, I purchased ceiling tiles made of dense foam of light wood color on the construction market. Two tiles are required, with dimensions of 500 × 500 mm. The phase inverter and heads are removable. The holes in them are countersunk with a drill (010 mm) for new screws with recessed heads.

The surfaces adjacent to the front board are liberally lubricated with silicone sealant, and then everything is installed back. The sealant allows you not to use the native rubber gaskets that increase the speaker height.

For each speaker, a panel (Fig. 3) and a decorative overlay (false panel) are made of foam plastic according to the dimensions of the front board. In the panel, the holes for the heads and the bass reflex are cut out in the form of rectangles with almost no adjustment. The panel serves the sole purpose of flattening the plane. The holes are cut along a metal locksmith's ruler with a clerical knife.

I glued the panel with Moment glue (fig. 4), but it should be used very carefully, as it dissolves the foam. I was saved by the fact that the glue dried quickly and did not make through holes. Instead, it is better to use auto-sealant or special ceiling adhesive.

The decorative overlay (Fig. 5) is marked as accurately as possible for the holes of the heads and the bass reflex. They are cut with the same knife on a flat horizontal surface, for example, on a sheet of plexiglass. A piece of foam is taken with a margin around the edges. After that, it is superimposed on the column, the holes for the heads and the bass reflex are aligned, and the contour of the column is outlined with a pencil. The overlay is glued to the top of the already glued panel (Fig. 6).

To close the ends of the foam pads, in the same construction market I purchased a plastic corner with a 15 mm shelf, almost identical in color to the foam. 4 pieces are cut from it in the height of the column and 4 in the width (of course, based on a pair of speakers). Cutting off each segment at 45 ° on one side and applying it to the face, we get a border-edging. We glue it to the tricky one.

Lubricate the inner side of the corner adjacent to the side wall of the column with Moment, and the one that is to the foam with a transparent sealant. Since the sealant dries slowly, and the moment seizes immediately, this allows the sealant to polymerize calmly, the corner holds on to the side. Now it remains to refresh the side walls with a dark or transparent nitro lacquer, screw suitable legs to the bottom (because of the glued corner, the bottom has become uneven) and the speakers are ready (Fig. 7).

It was necessary to equip a computer workstation. In order to save money, I decided to restore and repair the old computer speakers "Genius". The speakers are sturdy, in a sturdy case and with a decent acoustic radiator, but the electronics have caused criticism. Using affordable and cheap electronic modules purchased in online stores, we managed to make loud speakers with clear sound with our own hands. In terms of their parameters, computer speakers turned out to be cheaper than similar acoustics purchased in a store. A detailed step-by-step repair instruction with a diagram, photo and video is presented.

Computer speakers "Genius SP-16" were taken for restoration and repair. Loudspeakers began their life from the days of 14 ″ computer cathode-ray monitors. The enclosures are made of durable plastic with sufficient internal volume. Speakers with high efficiency and good reproduction characteristics are installed inside the speakers. But there are claims to electronics, which were partially eliminated during operation (replacement of electrolytic capacitors). Unfortunately, the sound from the speakers was not of high quality, especially at high volume, nonlinear distortions were clearly visible and annoying.

For the repair, the following restoration scheme was applied:

Replace the existing low-frequency amplifier with a class D amplifier.
Maintain the basic controls for the speakers.
Use an existing transformer to power the speakers.

For repairs, a ready-made switching power stabilizer for 5 Volts 2 Amperes and a digital stereo ULF board (3 watts per channel) were used. This type of ULF was deliberately chosen because of its low cost (

15 rubles) and unpretentiousness. The stereo amplifier was bought on Aliexpress at this link https://ali.pub/1e25ap... And the adjustable voltage regulator at this link . Buy 10 amplifiers at once, believe me it will come in handy, at this price it's for nothing!

To work, you will need a long Phillips screwdriver, a soldering iron with accessories for soldering, and pieces of tinned and insulated copper conductors. The presence of a suction for solder will facilitate the dismantling work. A tester is required to control the rations and settings.

The photo shows a diagram of the "Genius SP-16" speaker. In the diagram, crosses indicate conductors with details. All the details to the right of the cross must be soldered out and removed. The numbers show the connection points of the ULF board and power supply.

Self-tapping screws for fastening the halves of the cover of the active column are unscrewed
The board is removed from the open case and the power conductors and speaker connections are soldered.
The board is removed from the case and radio components are removed from it according to the diagram.
From the back side of the board, a soldering iron is installed on the legs of the conductors, according to the diagram, the power stabilizer. Before installing the ULF on the board, you must supply power to the board and check the output voltage to the +5 Volt stabilizer.
Further, the ULF board is installed on the board in the same way on the tinned conductors. The signal to the jack of the external speaker and loudspeaker is supplied with insulated conductors. See the photo.
Before final assembly, we check the operation of the ULF and volume and tone controls.
We assemble the column case. Look at the sound quality in the video.

The sound is now clear, the hiss in the absence of signals has gone beyond the audibility threshold, and the sound at maximum volume remains clear and without distortion. The repair price is less than 200 rubles (2017). Computer speakers with such parameters cannot be purchased for this price.

Do you like the renovation idea? Share your idea on social networks, so you support the author and appreciate his work. Subscribe to the Master's Secret electronic channel on Youtube .

At the time of 14 monitors, I purchased similar speakers Genius SP-G16 (16W) ... Since this was my first computer, monitor and speakers, initially the sound distortions were slightly annoying (I just didn't understand this) ... After a few months I had a desire to throw them out or redo (fix a flaw in the electronics), but since I did not gain knowledge in this area, the speakers were gathering dust at work for a long time (a work colleague drove them at high volume until they were hoarse and partial loss of sound) ... When I returned them home and disassembled it, it turned out that the case and the speakers are working properly .. I started to google the solution of the problem on the Internet and came out on your video ... I am impressed by the simplicity and concreteness of the presentation of your repair material. I intend to fix my speakers according to your scheme. But I have not found it on Ali already (an adjustable voltage regulator). Please, tell me which ones. characteristics from him. (I am in electronics oak and I can only put rivets with a soldering iron)

how to fix an active speaker.

How to repair a speaker system.

Repair of acoustics SB-5. Column for a computer 2 + 1. ZikValera The problem was that during long-term exploitation.

Repair and refinement of the speaker filter crossover.

Video (click to play).

Repair of two Sven MS-120 speakers at once. But this is not accurate, since the columns of this model look perfect in the pictures.

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