DIY aquarium filter repair

In detail: DIY aquarium filter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

To be honest, this point of earnings can be safely divided into several sub-points.
Well, firstly, this is the earnings on the manufacture of filters.
Of course, you are unlikely to succeed in making the filter heads themselves, and I do not see much sense in this event.

The market for equipment from China has literally flooded us with cheap Atmans and resuns and more expensive brands. Therefore, it is possible to compete with China, but not very profitable. The game is not worth the candle, unless you offer a product that will work several times longer, and the noise level will be several times less.
But to engage in the manufacture and sale of filter elements, this is the very "gold mine" that can lead to success.

For internal filters, this is, of course, the production of so-called "washcloths" sponges. The profit is simply huge, for the start you will need to purchase foam rubber. And not a large machine that will allow this foam to be cut into shapes.

The technology is practically waste-free, since trimmings are happy to buy later in furniture production, for filling upholstered furniture, by the way, I will make a reservation right away that furniture foam rubber cannot be used in aquaristics, since it contains hydrocyanic acid and a bunch of additives that are then released into the water.
Sponges, as a rule, are changed at intervals from 3 months to six months, therefore there will always be demand for these products.

Also, in addition to sponges of various shapes and sizes, you can simultaneously start manufacturing fillers for external filters. Of course, you shouldn't go too deep into the chemistry of various processes. But for example, it is worthwhile to engage in the manufacture of sintered all possible ceramic elements, and also packing in bags for filling coal, zeolite and other materials, I'm not talking about the manufacture of all possible liners and cartridges from padding polyester and foam rubber - it's worth it.

Video (click to play).

As you can see for yourself, these materials constantly require replacement as they are used and worn out, and therefore will always be in demand.

Well-established production gives from 60% profit.
The next item of earnings is the manufacture of external aquarium filters.
Yes, yes, you were not mistaken, and I did not make a typo.

Unfortunately, not many aquarists can afford to buy an expensive external filter for a good aquarium of half a ton of water. The democratic price applies only to undercarriage filters, which are designed, at best, for 300-400 liters ... therefore, everything that is more or (nano aquarium hobby) is less, no longer arouses the skill of store managers. And a quick search for the owner of a good aquarium in search of a good, but not expensive filter.
As a rule, in such cases, the products of station wagon masters come to the rescue.

Of course they are not as super reliable as store-bought ones. But with good design, they have been working for more than one year, and with good service, you should not expect a catch from such a homemade device.
Therefore, if your engineering and aquarium skills are sufficient, and you are as good at working with your hands as you are versed in aquarium wisdom, then it's time for you to think about creating a small workshop for the manufacture of such filters.
Immediately I want to write in this section about such areas as the manufacture of foam separating heads and SAMPs.

On our site, unfortunately, the section of marine aquaristics has not yet been opened, but developments in this direction are already underway, and therefore it is permissible to open some maps.

So that's it.
The fact is that in the market for skimming heads and SAMPs, the situation is even more complicated and, in my opinion, worse than with equipment for freshwater aquariums.

The fact is that all these maritime paraphernalia are much more complicated (and they are not measuredly expensive), therefore, if you really understand any of the directions for the manufacture of any of the devices, then you will definitely not be at a loss.

The situation is as follows:

A very expensive gadget, let's say the most useless penny, costs like a pair of good external filters.
Therefore, since marine aquaristics is a direction that is only developing, there is a demand for them. Penny producers understand this very well, so prices are simply exorbitant for their goods.
Therefore, several (imagine only a few in all the CIS.) Station wagon masters already make such devices for filtering sea water from acrylic and plastiglase, which work at the same dimensions as those sold in stores, but several times better, and are cheaper.
Therefore, if you join this group of masters and recommend yourself, then you will not be left without work - I assure you.
The same story with SAMPs, if someone does not know then SAMPs, this is the same filter, but unlike the external filter, in which fish waste is processed by non-aerobic bacteria in SAMPs, this is done by aerobic bacteria (well, if everything is simple). A UV sterilizer is also installed there, a compartment for special algae, which also help to process fish waste, etc. well, and a bunch of different equipment.

In fact, SAMP is such an aquarium with a bunch of different partitions.
So to make such a contraption (to do it right!) Is not easy.
Let's start with the fact that those sold in online stores are simply not measured by the money. And homemade developments on the network are also very, very few. Therefore, if you still collect the necessary information bit by bit and understand the depth of the question of how to do all this correctly, then I myself will buy such a SAMP from you.

And finally, I would like to mention the notorious filter repair.

As a rule, when the aquarist, after finding several buckets on the floor of water flowing out of the filter or not showing signs of life, the filter head immediately runs to the store or heart-rendingly begins to rummage through the sites in the hope of finding how to fix the detected malfunction.

However, at stores, there are several station wagon masters who successfully understand all these malfunctions and help restore an expensive device that has lost its functionality.

Therefore, if you are not bored with figuring out how the gaskets, hoses, rotor, and other contents of the filters change and you feel savvy enough, offer your services to a pet store and I am sure you will soon have customers.

JUWEL Bioflow Mini aquarium filter 280l / h.
assembled like this:
Link.
The impeller stopped working.
That. repair actually requires the email itself. motor like this:
Link.
e-mail I picked up a lot of motors as a child. On all of them, the propeller was put on a rotating axle. The motor, of course, was not sealed.
This one is sealed. The impeller is put on a fixed axle, the propeller includes an obviously cylindrical rotor, it is light metal by weight. The design of the motor is sealed, i.e. the drive is contactless.
Place of termination of e-mail. 220 V cord is hermetically sealed, filled with compound. The end of the motor is completely filled, i.e. access should be convenient.
Can I try to repair it? Let's say pick out the compound, clean the thread there, and then fill it with epoxy. Will epoxy seal? Say Poxipol? And what can break there in general, is there really anything to break?
Thank you.

there are no moving parts inside. There is a magnet on the impeller, which rotates due to impulses in the winding, thereby rotating the impeller.
It is flooded there thoroughly, after raskurochivaniya it is unlikely that all this will be subject to some kind of repair.It's easier to buy a new one, they are not so different

Thanks for the answer. Sports interest remains :-). I did not find a separate motor for sale. Complete set 1500 r. Enough for six months or a year. I also did not find any repair tips on the network. And what can break there? 🙂

The winding coil heats up and burns inside, the cooling there is bad, their sore. How the coils burn on the Chinese motors))))
Try to pick up a Chinese pump of the same size, now there are a lot of them, the original is very expensive
Look at the impeller from the inside - if the hole where the axis passes is oval, then most likely, as wear occurs, wedging occurs and the winding inside burns. The same garbage was on the fluvals, the impeller was made of ordinary plastic, wear when rotating, lasted for 1-1.5 years

And what can break there? 🙂
>

The bearing or on what and where it turns begins to wedge. the load increases, the winding is on fire.
Pull it open you will find out.

They all burn almost. Aquael green has only been working in 1 aquarium for more than 10 years already, in the second the Chinese are burning in a year or two. And Aquael is not in the stores, although I wasn’t looking for it. Sometimes you hammer on it, it gets hammered))) and does not spin for days, and does not burn, nevertheless.

After long dances with a tambourine around the pump in the built-in filter, I bought another design with suction cups and a paralon filter. Not entirely aesthetically pleasing, but effective. The main thing is to choose the volume of the aquarium.

> After long dances with a tambourine around the pump in the built-in filter, I bought another
> designs with suction cups and foam filter. Not quite aesthetically pleasing but
> efficiently. The main thing is to choose the volume of the aquarium.

having tried the external filter, there is no desire to remember about submersible filters.
10 years ago I bought eheim and that's it :)))
I clean it, maybe once every six months, maybe less often. drip once - the gaskets are worn out. changed and forgot again. the price tag is really outrageous for him now: ((

I agree about Aquael. there were no breakdowns.

>
> I agree about Aquael. there were no breakdowns.

+100500 for three years exactly two filters have worked

There were a lot of different ones, both external and internal.
If heychem is only a series of classics.
Do not be fooled by the newfangled profes 2 or 3. And these flow, especially on the start (fill) button.
After the sale of the farm, he left several aquas for the soul and eheim. The rest of the Tetras, fluted and sold various Chinese. The inner ones are lying somewhere in a heap in boxes on the loggia.
Yes, the green aquael was good, but for 15 years out of 5, one of the largest survived (aquael 3 like), but there is wear on the impeller. After turning off the light because of this, sometimes it is not started up. Now aquael is no longer a cake (((

2 pieces work in 300L for more than 7 years. Buy on aliexpress for inexpensive.

Ali so-
Link.
and cannot be repaired.

> If heychem is only a series of classics.
> Do not be fooled by the newfangled Profs 2 or 3. And these flow, especially on the start button
> (filling).

is that where you were before? it is in this button that prof.
I agree about the classic.

>
> is that where you were before? it is in this button that prof.
> I agree about the classic.

Yes here.))) For 15 years this made a living. Used, sold, and repaired all sorts of things.
By the way, one cured professional has been working for two years already, but I don't use the button. Nothing complicated. Disassembled, washed, rubbed with alcohol, siliconized and assembled back. There's only an ambush button. The rest is sort of norms.

I forgot to add. In aquase, the exterior will certainly be great. But the internal pump must be left as an aerator, or a compressor with a spray must be installed.

I have an Aquael with a foam filter and it has been driving and bubbling for 3 years already

> By the way, one cured professional has been working for two years already,
>. Disassembled, washed, rubbed with alcohol, siliconized and assembled back.
>

everything is exactly like that :))) only works after repair for 5 years :))

I looked at how much my motor costs on Ali and left.
impeller 1152 rubles for today.
the motor assembly, together with the case where it is inserted (but not the assembled device), although a little more productive - not 280, but 400 l / h - 2700 rubles.
complete device for 400 l / h - 2700 rubles.
In Moscow, the device is assembled for 280 - approx. RUB 1,500
What's going on, good people? Is everything cheaper for the Ketai, except for Juwel aquarium filters? So you always have to look at what is in the homeland.
He opened his old one halfway. Brought to the state "in the trash heap". I drilled a thick-thick layer of sealant, made sure that this was masochism, nafig.

In, I also have a tetra external filter dead, I went to the store and from the price of a new one the same fucking-almost 11,000, I bought a simple paralon one and a pump, okay, nothing has changed, the fish live and rejoice, the plants grow, shit at the bottom does not accumulate, razvodilovo is all for loot, in childhood there was none of this, the filter was from a washcloth and still lived its own life without expensive accessories.

Read also: Disk drive DIY repair

One such

And such

For cichlids, that's it. I don’t want to see anything extra inside the aquarium.

Yesterday I started it at 230l.

Damn, right now the same jewelry motor is dead)

This kit will be on sale, two lots.

Choose trusted craftsmen without intermediaries and save up to 40%!

Fill out the application
Get offers with prices from the masters
Select artists by price and reviews

Order aquarium filter repair

Departure to the house - Ostozhenka street, 27k2, Moscow

Thank you very much .. I will contact you again !!

Departure at home - Kosmonavtov boulevard, Krasnogorsk, Moscow region

Departure to the house - st. Zemlyanoy Val, 21 / 2s1, Moscow, Russia, 105064

Recomend for everybody. Clearly and no questions asked.

Departure to the house - Taruskaya street, house 22, Moscow, city of Moscow

An excellent performer, he completed everything very quickly, I recommend, he is very responsible!

Departure at home - Moscow, Zhukova Avenue

Exit to the house - entrance 2, Mironovskaya street, 25, Moscow

On the agreed day, I called very late (postponement), the next day I was late by 1.5 hours to the time appointed by him. The work itself took 5 minutes

Home visit - Khimki, Moscow region

It was necessary to urgently repair the lamp in the aquarium lid. It turned out that it is not so easy to find a person who could do it. Eugene did an excellent job, quickly, clearly and accurately. I am very satisfied, I recommend it to everyone!

Compare conditions and choose the best
Feedback from interested professionals only
Don't waste time communicating with intermediaries

To keep your aquarium clean, you need to filter it regularly. The natural waste products of the inhabitants of the aquarium can turn the aquarium into a swampy pool. Filtration should take place around the clock. A broken filter requires immediate repair. Independent repair procedures for aquarium filters can lead to irreversible failure of the unit. In addition, improper repair of an aquarium filter can turn the cleaning equipment into a poisoning mechanism. YouDo contractors provide qualified repair services for all types of aquarium filters. The YouDo craftsmen are most often asked to repair the following faults:

Loss of tightness between the filter components;
Incorrect profile seal;
Leakage of the cleaning system;
The filter does not pump water;
Deterioration of unit elements;
Decrease in cleaning power;
Air in the filter.

Believe it or not but. Today I saw fireworks in the aquarium - the internal filter FAN-2 burned out. Having climbed a little on the forum and did not find practical advice on how to disassemble your tsyatska in order to repair and assemble, and it worked at the same time. And there are no unnecessary details left. 😉
So I propose to discuss in this thread the ways of possible disassembly and repair of aquarium equipment! I hope you will find it useful as well as me. 🙂

Dear members of the forum, if you know how to disassemble the FAN-2 filter, please respond! Thanks everyone. )))

PS: This is actually the reason for the "flash under water"!
PS: The fish survived a short circuit, there are no corpses, no one has surfaced, although in my opinion you can put a FAT cross on the reproductive function. Something like non-surgical sterilization, if people are to be believed. (hopefully not)

Wanderer,))) It's just that it broke off so hard that you can't get it without disassembling it. 🙁 I pulled out the wire as much as possible!
I tried to "negotiate" with the filter in a normal way - it was not in any way. I had to tear off the lower part (it turned out almost aesthetically). ))))))) I'm wondering how long it will work after repair. I want to insulate it and glue the body with silicone. I read on the forum that some people use ordinary super-glue, but I don't want to risk it.

PS: For those who are interested in looking inside FAN, but it's a pity to break it! 😉

For everyone who has doubts about repairing or not repairing their equipment, I will answer - REPAIR! It is still broken, but there are chances. 😉

Who has had compressor problems? In short, I had a compressor "leak" (there was no check valve). Disassembled, dried. everything seems to be working properly, it turns on - but the pressure has disappeared (it cannot supply air even to 2cm depth) - I think that the problem is in the membrane (since you can hear that it supplies air without water), but I don’t know what to do with it. Maybe someone has already repaired such mechanisms?
Thank you. =)

Koroba, it all depends on the diligence and quality of the machines! )))))))))))))))

PS: I agree, I also like this approach "throw out the old - buy a new one!", But this is if there is free money. and if the device can be reanimated, why not repair it?

ZY2: As they say: - Observe safety precautions! ))))))))). my brainchild of repair is still working, but I will see how it will go on. 😉

Continuing the topic.
Just recently, water got into the new compressor “purely by accident” (it ran away through the hose) - it was super stupid! :))) Having disconnected it from the compressor, I threw it carelessly, there is no check valve - since before that I did not see the need for it, and of course after a while, a trickle ran - fortunately, that I did not leave anywhere at that time and quickly (I could not think of anything cleverer))) - pulled on the compressor inlet. When in the evening it turned on, it turned out to be almost nothing. The water - in which I love many different components - turned out to be a hike created the effect of sticking these small valves on the “inhale-exhale”. Having disassembled everything and wiped it with alcohol and dried it, I came to the initial effect of normal operation)))
This kind of garbage happens, it's not for nothing that the water heals, but where it also “cripples” :))))

))))))). I also had a case with this, only he himself “pulled” the water, that interestingly, the titanium pebble barely touched the surface of the water (and that was because of the surface tension, as I think) - so who is without check valves - “ keep our ears on top! ” ... when examining the “outgoing” valve membrane, I found a tiny speck there and because of it, the compressor could not create positive pressure. So from my own experience - never say never. 😉

Compressors need preventive cleaning almost once a year. In particular, you need to clean the petal and under the valve ladder from dust. This increases the efficiency of the compressor and reduces the noise level. It is important not to leave cotton lint or materials used for cleaning on the working surfaces of the valves after cleaning. This can nullify all efforts.

He repaired the wires of the internal filters at the place of the break: opening the case, a small piece of undamaged wire remains until the compound - a heat-shrinkable tube is pulled onto the cord, the wires are welded tightly with electrical tape in a couple of layers and silicone is applied, on top of a thermoshrinkable tube. Gently heat the tube with a lighter, it shrinks by squeezing the silicone.
The connection should be made as compact as possible so that it fits into the free space inside the case, but not so much that water gets into the inside of the insulation. We glue the body, for example, with dichloroethane.
It has been working for another two years.

A question along the way, are there those who in the summer, due to the heat and high water temperature in the aqua, do not turn off the aeration even in the daytime, with the existing supply of CO2-?

I save myself from the heat with an ordinary computer cooler directed at 45 grams to the water. The temperature did not rise above 28.5 in the aqua, although it was 33 in the apartment.

Dear, I know that many use timers in connection with the vacation season and not only (especially mechanics as a cheaper and more reliable option) to turn on and off lights, etc.
I bought Expert mechanical timers and was quite surprised. Since I had nothing to do with this before, I was on my guard.
I'm wondering if everyone heats up on the left end (side) in the middle. My timer gets very hot at this point. Who had problems with them? Maybe there is a way to fix them? I just don't really want him to die brazenly when I'm not around. While he is on trial and under supervision. Maybe it needs to be handed over to the store as substandard while there is time. =)

Thanks! =). I also thought that there was some element there - but the heating upset me greatly, I thought that the marriage and plastic would still melt. I almost took it to the store! 😉
That is, they are heated without any consequences or harm. Then I'm calm! =)))))))

PS: another question about the side switch - it doesn't work for me or I don't understand what it should do. should he turn off the timer (clock mechanism) or turn off the power supply to the entire device without pulling it out of the socket?

Vlad, in the aqua is now about 30 Celsius, there is no time to shoot down. Therefore, aeration works around the clock. The higher the water temperature, the worse the oxygen solubility (s)

You can then glue something. For example fins. Throw it away and don't bother ..

Today I decided to check how much the y-shaped 11W lamp on the 18W throttle will burn - it turned out that the space had already burned out (5 hours) - 2 third lamps burned out (although I sin that it was already "shell-shocked" after starting at the 36W throttle), maxus so far holds, although after 3 starts, gray rims are noticeable near the base. offensive (((((((((

- I decided to take this step after several disputes about the durability of such connections, I wanted to make an experiment.

PS: I was convinced that the circuit for connecting the u-shaped lamps that I found on our forum (2 lamps per 1 throttle if the watts and amperes match) does not work, at least for me.
- combined lamps from 2 manufacturers - only "planted" lamps!
I will try to solve the problem over the weekend, since there are few places and 2 drosel is a lot! and cooling for 2 will take up more space.

If anyone knows how to solve the problem, I ask you to respond, since this issue worries many, but so far no one has been able to solve the problem. When starting 2-y-shaped lamps on one choke, 2 start and 1 is lit ((((- how to solve the problem?

wanted to stage an experiment.
how to solve the problem?
How long do you think your esophagus (together with the stomach) will "hold out" if you eat food with a temperature (of course) of the order of 100 degrees ?!
In my opinion, you will not last long.
Likewise, the lamps are designed for a certain voltage and current. And if these parameters exceed the calculated ones, the lamp breaks down very quickly!
In your case, I would recommend using electronic ballasts (starting devices) from the so-called energy-saving lamps of appropriate power.

P.S. I once created the theme “Master of Light”. Unfortunately, it was removed by the moderator as “not up-to-date”.

code44 It has been removed at your personal request.

Drifter,. I know about shortening the service life, it's just that the electronic ballast is not always enough! ;)))

... and I wonder how long it will work!

ZY: it is a pity that I did not find the topic “that”, it was probably useful. ))))))))))))))

- I decided to take this step after several disputes about the durability of such connections, I wanted to make an experiment.

By the way, in the circuit, the incandescent lamp does not stand as a choke, but as a current limiter.

I agree 100% but I and you understand this - and others will not understand - that's why I wrote it like this - in the sense that dropping is unnecessary))). 🙂 I just think that for many this scheme will go superb - budgetary and low-cost - but it is not known how it will behave - it is quite possible that the contacts will burn out in six months if the current is not correct. it may be necessary to adjust the capacitors and lamp power for a longer operation of the lds. although in principle, even if the contacts inside the lamp burn out under 0 due to excessive current, it is still not scary - the lamp is already burned out: 024 :. so in any case, a win-win and budget option)) code58

There is a question for those in the know - those who DO NOT know, please do not be smart! 😉

philips s2 - starter, can it lead to accelerated damage to lamps? (burned out in 2 days - the phosphor burned out, I use the German MPU (ballast) 18W)
... I can’t understand anything with these starters, he starts up some lamps, stubbornly does not want others. (all Kitaymana) although the power of the lamps is the same.
... and “breaks through” the lamps after about a minute or two, first turns on (I see the glow inside) and “thinks” then in a minute or two shoots.
Does it work like that, or what kind of marriage did I get?

There are no problems with Osram ballasts, but here at 5 UAH / piece and “thoughts-thoughts. "

In general, who knows what and can say about these starters: better / worse, features.

... that damn it, I don't know what to do with them anymore ?!
in principle, they are suitable for serial connection (c2 sing), but they indicate an eco-click (they are also recommended for 18W lamps individually), but they do not reject the serial connection of several lamps. and in the characteristics they do not always indicate for which connection (individual or serial) they can be used, but they only indicate that the series is suitable for smooth starting of lamps of all types from 4 to 22 W

Maybe they "knock each other down"? - can this be?

Karacha, yes, I already regretted that I dumped for them. But at the epicenter, a fucking spark stands like an asram.
I would gladly buy a spark, but then it simply wasn’t there, but then I bought a company for China and “crap” - like I thought it would last longer.

It is necessary to look for a “point” somewhere cheaper - an epic is very expensive for me (for my experiments)!

If a starter with the same characteristics, the lining should not be.

4 to 22W
But this is just embarrassing, a painfully wide range.

Sobsna, here is his photo. There is a gray strip along the perimeter, can it peel off? The photo shows the place where both ends of the strip close, but they close so tightly that you can't pry it off with your fingernail

, as if the ends are welded, maybe in this place you need to open?

Changed 6.6.11 author Winner

Isn't it easier to buy a new one? I tried to repair the Chinese, but in the end I threw it out.
If you can make it out, please share your experience.

Changed 6.6.11 by Tiger74

Isn't it easier to buy a new one? I tried to repair the Chinese, but in the end I threw it out.
If you can make it out, please share your experience.

Changed 6.6.11 by Tiger74
I'll try, if something works out, I'll tell you. My acquaintances wanted to throw it away, but I didn't give it up, took it, said I'll fix it. It just often happens that they throw away devices that can be easily repaired. And buying new ones is not always enough money.

No one is safe from filter breakage. However, you must always be ready for this. Stopping the filter can cause cloudy water in the aquarium.

Try to find a replacement for the broken filter part right away. If you do not know the cause of the breakdown, you can take the filter for examination. During the repair, it is necessary to increase the aeration in the aquarium and change a third of the water every three days. Then the aquarium fish can safely live for several days without a filter. If it happens that the filter cannot be repaired, you must purchase a new one and install it in the aquarium using the filter medium from the old device. The old one can be disassembled into parts - they can be useful to you at the next breakdown.

Until you install a new or refurbished filter in your aquarium, try feeding
stop feeding them less often or stop feeding them altogether to reduce the appearance of by-products. The bacteria in the soil will not handle the usual amount of waste. This is especially important - a broken filter can lead to an increase in the concentration of ammonia in the water, which can seriously harm the fish.

Until the nitrogen cycle in the aquarium is restored, change the water several times a day to reduce the ammonia content. It is not necessary to change all the water, 30% of the total is enough. Ammonia poisoning is one of the serious troubles that can occur after a filter breaks, so it is important to take preventive measures.

If you wish, you can purchase a spare filter or spare parts for it in order to fix the breakdown within a short time. The biological filter is the most problematic because a colony of beneficial bacteria can die in one hour, and it will take several weeks to recover.

maintenance, care, compatibility

Breeding fish at home is an interesting activity that helps to pacify a person's state of mind and stabilize his nervous activity. But, having an aquarium at home, you have to solve the problems that arise with it. If the water reservoir has leaked, and a puddle regularly forms under it, you should immediately repair the container without waiting for its irreversible damage.

1. Inspect carefully aquarium and locate the leak. Examine the lamp and the cover glass, perhaps you took ordinary condensation flowing onto the table for a leak, in which case repair aquarium not necessary.

2. Purchase a silicone sealant from a store, it is best to take a special one, marked “for aquariumov ". In the absence of this, you can take a universal one, for glass, but make sure that it does not contain antifungal additives. It is advisable to use a gun to squeeze out the sealant, as without it you will not be able to apply the adhesive evenly.

3. If water gradually seeps through the through bubble in the joint (the passage through the entire width of the adhesive joint), try dropping silicone into this place and push so that it passes inward. Do the same from the inside. aquariuma, spread the protruding part of the adhesive with a spatula or finger.

4. If water flows along the entire seam and no bubbles are visible, most likely the glue has come off due to poor degreasing. In this case, it is not worth covering up anything, the seam will spread further anyway. Try one of the following. Find glass of the same thickness full length aquariuma and about 6–7 cm thick. Then degrease the surfaces with acetone. Apply a mesh of silicone sealant and firmly attach the glass strip to the bottom, pressing it against the front glass (there should be at least 1 mm of adhesive between the end of the strip to be glued and the glass). Also coat the other end of the strip well with sealant so that there are no bubbles. A week aquarium should dry, then you can fill in water and start the fish.