DIY aluminum battery repair

Repair of aluminum radiators: causes of breakdowns, how to eliminate a radiator leak, how to glue the device, how to repair or replace a section

As a rule, problems in radiators become known at the most inopportune time, namely during the heating season.

The main problems are battery leakage, cold sections and blockages, which require urgent attention to fix them.

Repair of aluminum radiators includes various ways to eliminate problems and, depending on their scale, can be done by hand or require professional intervention.

For all its attractiveness, this type of heaters is in the lowest demand among consumers because of the prevailing opinion that the service life of aluminum radiators is short, and they have many shortcomings and "claims".

This is not entirely true. Aluminum radiators have a number of attractive features that have won the hearts of many customers.

1. They are able to withstand pressure drops of up to 20 atmospheres and above. If they are supposed to be installed in a house with centralized heating, then you should carefully study the working system and, when choosing radiators, familiarize yourself with their technical characteristics indicated in the data sheet.
2. Aluminum radiators weigh little, so they are easy to transport and install.
3. Their device is so simple that, if necessary allows you to repair aluminum heating radiators with your own hands if you have the necessary tools.
4. High heat dissipation provides quick heating of the room while saving energy resources.
5. A small volume of coolant gives almost instant heating the entire radiator area.
6. Aluminum radiators have a stylish design and fit perfectly into any environment.

Such a number of advantages can make them the sales leaders in the heating systems market, if not for the fact that they "feel" best in individual heating systems.

This is due to the fact that aluminum is susceptible to corrosion in the absence of a coolant for a long time (as you know, in centralized systems it is drained in the warm season) and its purity and alkaline balance.

If, with autonomous heating, the quality of the carrier can be monitored and left in the system, then in an apartment building under central heating conditions it is very difficult to do this.

If aluminum batteries are installed correctly and operated in the conditions required for them, then their service life significantly exceeds the manufacturer's warranty (10 years). Repairing an aluminum heating battery is just as easy as building up additional sections.

As in the case of the sleigh in the well-known saying, the heating system should be prepared for the new season in the summer.

The main causes of problems are:

1. Weak heating of the aluminum battery in the absence of air in it.
2. There are noises and knocks in the system.
3. There was a leak in an aluminum heating radiator.
4. A plaque appeared at the joints of the system elements.

In homes with autonomous heating, these problems can be easily identified by running the system at maximum operating mode. Higher pressure will show the integrity of the structure and allow you to see possible defects in it. In houses with centralized heating, it will not be possible to carry out such work on your own, but you can submit an application to the management service that their specialists have carried out the necessary work.

If during testing the system showed itself from the best side, but problems began at the height of the season, then an urgent dismantling of the radiator is required.

To do this, you need to do the following:

1. The locking devices overlap, as does the riser (the carrier must first be drained from it).
2. A container for draining the coolant is installed under the bottom connection.
3. Unscrew the lower ball valve so that the water (antifreeze) remaining in the battery drains out.
4. The upper valve is also unscrewed, and the battery is removed from the brackets.

If the question arises, how to repair an aluminum heating radiator, if it does not heat, then you should look for the reason for this state of the device:

1. First thing you need to release air from the system and wait, the batteries may warm up.
2. If nothing has changed, then you will have to dismantle the radiator and check for the possibility of clogging... In sectional aluminum radiators, not much coolant is placed. By pouring water into the removed heater, you can calculate whether its amount corresponds to the parameter declared in the data sheet. If not, then it is not required to repair the aluminum heating radiator, but to flush it, for which it is necessary to pass water under high pressure through the structure until it brightens.
3. If the water flow did not "cope" with the task, then you will need knowledge of how to disassemble an aluminum heating radiator into sections and do the same work with each element separately... Sometimes, with very heavy dirt, a brush (not metal) is required to remove thick dirt from the battery.

Sometimes the only way to bring batteries back to hot is to replace or extend the aluminum heat sink section. With the lateral type of connection, this will not be difficult, while with the lower or diagonal method, you will have to extend or shorten the length of the pipe.

After the battery has been safely dismantled, you can start disassembling it into sections.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The first step is to unscrew the nipples, for which, with a wrench, the right one is turned counterclockwise, and the left one - clockwise. This procedure must be done very carefully, since the nipple could "stick" to the radiator, and having torn it off with a careless movement, you can throw out 2 sections at once.
2. Unscrew the nipples in all sections one by one in the same way.
3. The movements with a wrench are carried out in successive turns, and the alternate removal of the nipples will save the structure from distortions.

After the sections have been removed, you can start cleaning them.

If you know how to disassemble an aluminum radiator, then the assembly, which is carried out in the reverse order, will also not be difficult:

1. Carried out "inspection" of the state of the thread on all sections and their surface is studied for chips.
2. Each nipple must be screwed in and out several times.to ensure ease in subsequent fixation.
3. If a layer of paint is applied at the joints of the sections, then it must be cleaned with sandpaper to the aluminum base of the battery. This will save the structure from destruction, since over time the paint cracks, the coolant gets under it, creating microcracks on the surface.
4. If after removing the paint at the joint a rubber gasket has been found, it should be cut off and replaced with a new one.
5. The nipple is twisted, on which the silicone gaskets are pulled.
6. The next section is screwed on the other side of the nipple. It is necessary to ensure that each element is tightly fitted. Thus, the whole structure is brought together.

When twisting the nipples, do not use force, otherwise the thread may break. If an aluminum radiator has dripped, it is better to ask the professionals what to do, especially if it happened during the high season.Hot fluid can cause severe burns, so be careful.

How to replace an aluminum radiator section?

As a rule, there are several ways how to change a section in an aluminum radiator or repair it, and this type of work includes:

1. Replacement of seals, for which the battery is dismantled and disassembled into sections.
2. If the question is how to eliminate a leak in an aluminum radiator during the heating season, then the most reliable way would be to completely remove or replace the section, but if for some reason this cannot be done, then cold welding can be used.
3. For small defects, it is recommended to use special means for soldering aluminum, but this work requires certain skills. Even with knowledge of how to eliminate a leak in an aluminum radiator, this measure is considered temporary in order to "hold out" until the end of the season.
4. Argon welding is recognized as the most reliable way to repair batteries, but it also requires special training.

For any type of work with aluminum batteries, remember that this metal is quite soft and requires careful handling. On the other hand, if the devices are installed and operated correctly, then the question of why aluminum heating radiators are flowing should not arise at all.

Soldering batteries from this metal is a "thankless" job, since it begins to oxidize when interacting with oxygen, forming a film on its surface.

Therefore, most often customers ask themselves how to glue an aluminum radiator.

For these purposes, iron-rosin flux is best suited, with which you need to cover the previously cleaned surface, and then use a soldering iron to inject the solder directly under the flux layer.

This type of repair is only suitable for small leaks.

Repair, even the easiest one, requires close attention and some skills, regardless of whether the aluminum radiators are leaking or clogged. It is better to leave such works to professionals, since aluminum is an extremely "finicky" metal.

Aluminum radiators widely used in heating systems, have an acceptable cost, ease of installation and have good heat dissipation.

The stylish look and the ability to mount radiators even under low-height window sills have made them one of the best options for most houses and apartments.

But like any other item, radiators can break. Some causes of breakdowns easy to fix at home without the involvement of third-party specialists.

It is easy to recognize a malfunction of the heating system - there will be a leak, in the joints plaque is formed, during heating season the rooms are getting colder, than usual.

but causes of breakdowns At first glance, it is not so easy to define radiators:

• Wrong connection batteries (assembly of sections or installation to pipes of the heating system).
• Sudden pressure drops, increased acidity of water, due to which corrosion appears on the sections.
• Limescaleresulting from the use of poor coolant. It also becomes the cause of severe blockage of the sections.
• Wear nipples and gaskets between compartments.
• Incorrectly fitted model radiator incompatible with the heating system.

In apartment buildings, it is often carried out routine inspection and preventive maintenance heating equipment by specialists (in agreement with the supplier of utilities).

The radiator is repaired on the floor and washed in the bathtub. In the first case, you need to cover the floor with polyethylene film or waterproof cloth. When rinsing, the bath is covered with a material that protects the surface from scratches.

To clean, disassemble and repair the radiator, you will need tools:

• a set of wrenches with different heads or an adjustable wrench;
• nipple wrench;
• a hammer with a soft tip;
• sandpaper;
• repairing sections requires neutral lubrication;
• silicone gaskets.

It happens that during the installation process, wear of nuts and nipples is detected, their buy as needed.

Reference. Start radiator repairs on weekdays when there is an opportunity to visit plumbing or hardware store.

Additionally prepare a basin or other container for collecting dirty waterthat flows out of the radiator during cleaning.

Battery inspection, cleaning and repair are possible only after removing the product from the wall.

The light weight of aluminum radiators, even for one person, makes it easy, but neat, to detach the structure from the pipes and remove it from the brackets... But this must be done in stages:

1. The circulation of the coolant is stopped, the pressure is released.
2. During the heating season, wait for the radiator to cool completely. The structure is disconnected from the pipe system by removing the inlet and outlet couplings.
3. The sleeve is moved away from the section along the pipe, the battery is removed from the holders.
4. The water remaining inside is completely drained. The construction is placed on the prepared fabric with the outside facing up.
5. Take out the filter and wash with water and soapy water.

The next stage of installation will be disassembly radiator into components... The most important point is correct disconnection of the nipple. When the part is unscrewed, the section for which it is responsible begins to smoothly move apart.

Often the manufacturer indicates the direction of the thread - D (right side) or S (left side)... You need to start unscrewing it with a key carefully and slowly. With too strong and incorrect twisting, it is easy to break the thread not only on the nipple, but also on the battery itself.

Attention! As soon as the nipple turns half a turn, need to go to the nut on the other side section. Gradual loosening on both sides will protect the section from breakdown and possible mechanical damage.

After parsing sections you need to remove and rinse the metal gaskets... In case of severe damage, it is recommended to buy spare parts. Silicone gaskets must be replaced after disassembling the battery.

Clean the radiator from accumulated dirt after the end of the heating season.

Professional cleaning devices are not easy to get, and they are expensive.

In the bath, the structure is washed as follows:

• Using hot water. On one side, water is poured using a funnel, or by unscrewing the nozzle from the shower hose. When the battery is full, shake it. If it is too heavy, then the structure is slowly turned over. Both plugs must be open so that dirty water can flow freely. You need to repeat the procedure several times.
• Using a cleaning agent. The radiator is filled with a solution of a cleaning agent, after installing the plugs. For the procedure use citric aciddiluted in water. Leave the device for several hours to allow the cleaning solution to remove all contamination. If citric acid is not available, use an all-purpose cleaner or liquids to remove rust and stubborn dirt.
• Final rinsing. Across 2 - 3 hours the battery is tapped with a plastic or rubber mallet to remove large pieces of rust and other dirt from the interior walls. After that, wash out the cleaning agent until its traces are completely eliminated (if a soap composition is used, wash until the foam remains).

When choosing a cleaning agent, remember that aluminum "does not tolerate" alkaline compoundsbut reacts well to acids.

Assemble the radiator starting with checking all the details... Special attention must be paid to this, since the omission of one small element can lead to a malfunction of the entire structure.

Photo 1. The process of assembling an aluminum radiator. In order to assemble the device, you need a special key.

Exact battery assembly plan:

1. First check the condition of all connecting elements... They should be free of chips, cracks and other damage.
2. Before assembly the nipple is screwed in and out repeatedly.
3. Checking the joints of the sections. If paint is present, sand it off with medium grit sandpaper.
4. Glued silicone the gaskets are removed with a sharp knife (they become visible after removing the paint).
5. Metal gaskets washed with soapy water.
6. Then put the nipple on the sectionbut without twisting. After that, the silicone gaskets are pulled.
7. On the other side of the nipple attach the next section so that it fits snugly at the junction.
8. Key turn the nipple 2 times. The part is screwed on the other side in the same way.
9. Nipples hold out with a lever, but without extra effort, so as not to damage the threads.
10. Repeat actions with other sections.

Sometimes, during the repair process, leaks are found, which are sealed with a special agent.

When replacing the gasket, in some cases, cracks and holes are found that need to be repaired. For this, use epoxy adhesive. First, the place of leakage should be cleaned of plaque and paint.

Important! To clean the pipe from the inside in the damaged area, use metal rope.

Epoxy glue is applied on top of the damaged area and applied a thin strip of fiberglass. A second layer of material is glued on top. The procedure is completed by installing a metal clamp.

Photo 2. Epoxy glue Moment from the manufacturer Henkel. They can seal holes in the heating radiator.

In an aluminum radiator with severe damage, a complete replacement of the section is required, even if they were used for repair professional devices and methods:

• cold welding;
• aluminum solder (for minor damage);
• argon welding.

These methods can only temporarily delay the final breakdown of the product, as a result, you will still need complete replacement of the section.

Watch a video on how to repair and build up aluminum radiators.

At home alone, they only eliminate some types of damage to aluminum radiators - small holes, dirt. However, in case of significant equipment defects or if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists for help.

The repair of aluminum radiators has always caused a stir, both on the part of the owners of cars and on the part of the craftsmen. The former constantly wanted to fix all the faults, the latter to make money. In this article we will try to consider all aspects of the repair of aluminum radiators. Everything described below applies equally to both cooling radiators and stove radiators.

Most common radiator malfunctions:

• the appearance of cracks in the area of ​​the outlet and supply pipes of radiators;
• violation of the tightness of the tubes;
• violation of the tightness of the seals;
• the appearance of holes and cracks as a result of mechanical damage;
• poor fluid passage, as a result of clogged tubes.

First, let's take a look at the construction of aluminum radiators and what composite materials are used during their production. The first type is a traditional aluminum radiator with plastic tanks, it may differ depending on the model by the type of cup clamping and the manufacture of the core. As a rule, the tanks are clamped with a wave rolling or teeth.

Sometimes it may seem that the difference is only in the method of rolling, but this is not true. Without going into details, we note that the type of gasket used between the bottom of the radiator and the reservoir imposes certain restrictions, or, in other words, entails the use of a specific type of rolling. Now let's look at the types of cores.

Typesetting cores are divided into:

• solid-brazed;
• typesetting (or prefabricated).

Solid brazed

These radiators are more difficult to manufacture, and, accordingly, they are much more expensive than prefabricated ones. The meaning of the core is that it is collected, like copper, but then sent to a special furnace, with an inert gas atmosphere and a strictly defined temperature for sintering. Then, when the core is ready, plastic tanks are connected to it using wave rolling. Naturally, there are also combinations of the above methods in nature.

As a rule, prefabricated models are based on round tubes with a cross section of 7-11 millimeters, and stacked heat sink plates, they are not welded to the tubes, but simply tightly put on them. The advantage of this design is its low cost, since almost all work is done mechanically, without the help of welding. But still there is one type of prefabricated radiators, where the tubes are not rolled through silicone gaskets to a metal mesh, but are soldered to an aluminum one. To these radiators, in 99 percent of cases, the tanks are connected by means of a toothed expansion of a certain type.

A bit apart are all-aluminum radiators, in which the cores and tanks are made of aluminum. The cores of these radiators are always manufactured by all-brazed technology.

But, surprisingly, not a single cooling radiator from a major manufacturer uses this technology, since the tanks may require as much material as the core itself. The only exceptions are exclusive American radiators, they are made under the order of the capricious owner of the "drag" or restored "classics".

In our country, this technology is found either in stove radiators of some manufacturers (for example, Daewoo Nubira, Lanos), or in models of an openly Chinese or domestic manufacturer. But these two described options, although cheaper than a copper-brass radiator, but the quality of their assembly and design is completely copied from the brass models, and inherits all the "innate" shortcomings. In addition to the above, it must be said about aluminum stoves, their tanks are not welded to the grid, as they should be, but glued, and even with the help of glue, which is dangerous to use even to a garden watering can, not like to a heating radiator.

That is, in order to make a high-quality aluminum radiator, which, in addition to a good heat sink, can still withstand mechanical and hydrodynamic loads long time, careful design is required, and the use of sophisticated equipment during production. And this increases the cost of the final product, which will immediately transfer it from the category of leaders, in comparison with the "copper" product, to the level of expensive outsiders.

Since, for example, at a GAZelle, on our roads, a brass radiator rarely drives off without breakdowns 40,000 Km, which is about a year with a daily load of 100 Km. After overhauling the radiator with our own hands, we can double its life time, unlike the factory one, but it is quite difficult to do this with an aluminum analogue, and most importantly, it is not very profitable financially. Here is a reason to ponder whether you need to save money when buying between an aluminum and a brass radiator?

As a rule, craftsmen call stoves and radiators exotic, which can be very rarely found. As an example, you can cite a heating device Opel Omega 1992, it is made of an all-plastic mesh (bottom) and tanks, made in one piece, and connected to an inlaid core, which has oval tubes, with a welded-on turbulator. Apart from this example, there are also a number of rare varieties, but this, again, is rare.

It should be noted that the more exotic the radiator is on your car, the more difficult it is for car mechanics to repair it, and not only because of the complexity of combining different materials, but also because the experience of many craftsmen simply does not make it possible to apply the tried and true one the first time repair option. That is, an inexperienced master will perform repairs at random, while learning the subtleties, so to speak, exercising with his own hands on your radiator, gaining experience for himself.

As mentioned above, plastic tanks make it easier tos and make the design cheaper.But it is necessary to make a reservation, the term "plastic", considering the tanks, is not very correct, since they are based on polypropylene, and no one will disclose the rest of the additives and impurities, survival in a competitive environment depends on it. Here you can find fiberglass reinforcement, fillers, and other tricks.

After a certain time, the plastic tanks dry up, the plastic base changes under the influence of a constant temperature difference, and they become brittle and form a leak. In this case, the best option would be to replace the radiator with a new one, because replacing the reservoir is not always cost-effective. But sometimes, if we consider exclusive models, you cannot do anything, how to repair cracks in the tank with your own hands, but here the second question arises - which repair option is better?

There is three main repair options:

• replacing the tank with a metal one, which is welded or soldered in place of the plastic one;
• soldering the tank with plastic;
• use of special polymers.

The first method is the most reliable, but also the most expensive, and there is still a problem with the second tank (since there are two of them in the radiator). If you replace two tanks, the cost will be such that it is easier to order a new, original radiator, and all the assurances of the masters, such as the radiator will be eternal, you need to ignore it, since the aluminum part also has a certain resource, and it decreases simultaneously with the resource of plastic cisterns. The high price of these tanks is explained by the fact that they are not made by the master himself, but by an industrial plant, like an aviation plant (Antonov Design Bureau or KhAZ), and the master only welds it with his own hands using argon welding.

The next two methods are more accessible, since use of polymers and plastic soldering is both cheaper and faster, and during the operation of an already very old radiator, it will make it possible to "turn over" before purchasing a new one, without large capital investments. But I must say that soldering a complex composition of polypropylene is sometimes even dangerous, you can make it even more fragile in the soldering area.

The repair of the aluminum honeycomb itself always caused a severe headache, both for the owners of the cars and for the craftsmen. The main reason is both sometimes a very complex and almost unrepairable design, and rather thin metal in radiators that do not have “weak points” in the design, so to speak. But let's look at everything in order.

The first type that we will describe is a prefabricated car radiator, which, as we said above, is inexpensive, but its high-quality repair requires quite large material investments, but at the same time it is quite possible with the hands of professionals. Design consists of a honeycomb part, which, by the way, if it breaks, it is not often, as a rule, the rubber seals fail first. Round honeycombs are fixed to the mesh by rolling, through a rubber seal, which is plastic at the beginning of life.

But this is only at first, and only when pouring high-quality antifreeze, then the gasket turns into just a terrible sight. For example, the resource of a German radiator, which is operated on high-quality antifreeze, is about 11-16 years, a Soviet one - 7-11 years, the resource of a modern and Chinese one can sometimes be from 20 minutes to several years.

If the soldering of the central part of this radiator (well, rubbed it, or punched it with a screwdriver) is possible with the help of special solders, then it is profitable and efficient for both sides, it is almost impossible to repair the "sinister connection". Some workshops, at one time developed a composition that makes it possible to solder aluminum honeycombs to a steel mesh, but, of course, it is inappropriate to use it for repairs, for example, for VAZ-2107 products, this option is well suited only for repairing "foreign cars".

This is already a more advanced product, which requires an advanced and expensive intervention during the repair.Since the solid-brazed unit is almost never found in budget cars (for example, Daewoo Lanos installs a solid-brazed version, while Daewoo Sens is type-set), the slightly more expensive repair cost justifies itself almost all the time.

Complication of soldering, for example, of corner honeycomb packages is explained by the fact that different metal thicknesses will not allow the craftsman, even a professional who handles the torch, to melt the solder, the temperature of which often reaches 500-650 degrees, and at the same time not damage the plastic tank.

Removing it for this is also impractical, and you can damage the factory connection, an alternative is a high-quality photopolymer or polymer.

As a result, I would like to say that the aluminum radiators of a car with their plastic tanks, although quite difficult to repair, but with a competent approach and high-quality materials, make it possible to achieve excellent results.

A curious pattern of malfunctions in the vast majority of household appliances is their appearance at the most inconvenient time. Aluminum radiators designed for heating are no exception, which tend to break down precisely during the winter heating season, when the consumer suddenly encounters battery leaks, their cold sections and the appearance of blockages in them that require urgent elimination.

Repair of aluminum heating elements can be done by hand or require the involvement of professionals, depending on the scale of the malfunctions that have arisen.

With all the attractiveness of this product, this type of heating batteries has the lowest demand among consumers. The reason for this is the widespread opinion that aluminum radiators, with a large number of shortcomings and complaints about their operation, do not differ in a significant service life.

This statement is only partly true, since batteries made of aluminum are capable of functioning at pressure drops of more than 20 atm. The small mass of aluminum radiators makes it possible not only to easily transport these products, but also to install them without significant physical effort, and the simplicity of their design often makes it possible to repair them on their own, if necessary, with the necessary tools and minimal technical skills. The high degree of heat transfer creates conditions for very rapid heating of the room and significant savings in energy resources.

In addition, they have a small volume of coolant, which causes almost instantaneous heating of the entire working area of ​​the battery. Aluminum radiators are stylishly designed to complement any décor.

All these positive properties could bring these elements of heating systems to the top of sales. in their market segment, if not for the fact that they are best used in heating systems for individual connection.

This is due to the fact that aluminum begins to corrode with a prolonged absence of water in the system, because in central connection systems it is usually drained out during the warm season. This should also include its pH and chemical purity.

In the presence of an autonomous individual connection of the system, the quality state of the carrier is controllable, that is, it can be left in the system, but it is practically impossible to do this with a central heating supply.

The main "symptoms" of malfunctions of the heating system, consisting of aluminum batteries, are the weak heating of such radiators and the lack of air there, as well as the appearance of various noises and unpleasant knocking in the heating circuit. This also includes the presence of a leak in the body of the radiator or the appearance of plaque in the docking nodes between the elements of the entire system.

In houses where autonomous heating is equipped, these problems are easily detected when the system is started in the mode set to the maximum. In this case, due to the creation of high pressure in the heating circuit, places of violation of its integrity will be revealed and it will be possible to detect problems that have arisen in it, while in houses where central heating is installed, it is almost impossible to carry out such measures on your own. The issue will have to be resolved by contacting the management company to attract their specialists.

It may happen that the testing of the system gave a good result, but immediately during the heating season, problems arose in it. In such a situation, an emergency disconnection of the damaged radiator from the system is required.

If aluminum batteries have been installed correctly and have been operated in compliance with all the required technical conditions, then the period of their operation may significantly exceed the ten-year warranty declared by the manufacturer. In this case, the repair work will not be associated with high labor costs, even if it is necessary to add additional sections.

Manipulations of a repair nature will in this case consist in overlapping the shut-off valves and the riser, from where the coolant must first be drained.

To drain this medium, place a container under the valve of the bottom connection. Then the bottom tap is unscrewed to drain the remaining water from the battery or, if such a coolant is used, antifreeze. After that, the upper valve is unscrewed and the radiator is removed from its place.

If the aluminum heater does not provide heat, then the root of this problem should be sought by bleeding air from the heating system. After that, you need to wait until the batteries warm up enough, and if this does not happen, then you will have to dismantle the radiator and check it for clogging.

Aluminum radiators, consisting of sections, accommodate a relatively small volume of the coolant. By filling a previously removed battery with water, you can determine whether or not this amount of water corresponds to that indicated in the data sheet. If a discrepancy is found, it is necessary not to repair the radiator, but to flush it. To do this, it is necessary to pass a stream of water under high pressure through the removed battery until this water clears up.

If it was not possible to solve the problem due to such flushing, then it will be necessary to disassemble the radiator into separate sections and flush each of these elements. In some cases, if there is a very significant contamination of the radiator sections, a brush, but not with a metal bristle, will be required to remove clots of dirt from the battery.

In some situations, the only way to bring the batteries into working condition is to completely replace the damaged sections or add them. If there is a lateral connection, then such a manipulation will not cause much trouble, but in the case of a bottom or diagonal connection, depending on the situation, you will have to either build up the pipe, or, conversely, reduce its length.

Dismantling the dismantled battery into separate sections begins with unscrewing the nipples. To do this, turn the right nipple with a wrench to the left - along the left thread. Accordingly, the left nipple must be turned to the right, since it has a right-hand thread. Performing this manipulation requires great care, because the nipple may well "stick" to the battery and the thread can be ripped off with an inadvertent movement. As a result, you will have to discard 2 sections together.

In a similar way, the nipples on the remaining sections are unscrewed in turn. After dismantling all sections, they are cleaned. The assembly of the structure is carried out in the reverse order.

During the repair, it is necessary to check the condition of the threaded connections for all battery sections and inspect them for chips. Both nipples should be unscrewed and tightened several times in order to achieve sufficient ease when they are later installed in place.

If the areas where the sections join are covered with dye, then it should be cleaned with sandpaper to the very aluminum of the battery. Otherwise, the paint will crack after a while, a coolant will appear under its layer and microcracks will appear on the surface of the structure.

If, after removing a layer of paint, a rubber gasket is found in the joint area, it will need to be cut off and replaced with a new one. When screwing in each nipple, a silicone gasket is pulled over it.

The next section is screwed on from the reverse side of the nipple with continuous adherence to a tight fit of each element until the entire structure is assembled.

When tightening the nipples, under no circumstances should force be used so as not to break the thread. If a leakage of an aluminum heating radiator occurs during the heating season, you should beware of the hot coolant so as not to get burned from it.

This work can be done in several ways, which, in particular, should include the replacement of the seals in the radiator. Such work requires dismantling the battery and disassembling it into separate sections. If we are talking about eliminating a leak in a battery during the heating season, then the most effective solution would be to use the so-called cold welding, if it is not possible to completely replace a damaged radiator or change a leaky section in it.

Small defects can be rectified with solder for tinning non-ferrous metals, but such a manipulation requires the skills of tinning work and is a temporary measure that allows only to "hold out" until the end of the heating season.

If the consumer and the corresponding equipment have the qualifications of a gas electric welder, one should use argon welding to repair aluminum radiators, which is undoubtedly the most optimal option.

During any work with such radiators, remember about the significant softness of aluminum and handle it with particular care. At the same time, with proper installation and careful observance of the rules of operation of these elements of the heating system, the problem of their leakage should not arise in principle.

How to repair aluminum heating radiators with your own hands, see the video below.