DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of uaz 469 shock absorbers from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Disassemble the shock absorber in the following order:

    Secure the shock absorber to the lower mounting lug in a vise, move the piston to the upper position. Then use a wrench (fig. 200) to unscrew the reservoir nut.

Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469


Fig. 200. Dimensions of the wrench for removing the shock absorber reservoir nut
  • With a slight swing at the upper end, remove the rod together with the piston from the working cylinder. When doing this, be especially careful not to damage the polished surface of the stem.
  • Remove the slave cylinder from the reservoir and completely drain the shock absorber fluid.
  • Clamp the stem in a vise at the top mounting lug and remove the piston nut. Remove the piston with valve parts, the guide and the oil seal ring.
  • Wash all parts of the shock absorber in gasoline or kerosene. Carefully inspect the washed and dried parts and identify those that need to be repaired or replaced.

    When inspecting the valve assembly parts, pay particular attention to the condition of the valve edges. If there are scratches, traces of significant wear and other defects on the obturator surface of the valve or its seat, eliminate them by lapping. Replace valve parts that show cracks and breaks during inspection.

    Assemble the shock absorber in the reverse order, taking into account the following:

    1. Impregnate a new polyurethane foam oil seal with shock absorber fluid before installation.
    2. Install the rubber stem seal in the yoke so that the bottom is facing the piston. Before installing the stuffing box on the stem, moisten its inner surfaces mating with the stem with shock absorber fluid.
    3. Install the slave cylinder with the compression valve assembly pressed into it into the reservoir, then fill in the shock absorber fluid (320 cm3 - for shock absorbers with a cylinder diameter of 35 mm; 345 cm3 - with a diameter of 40 mm; 295 cm3 - for front shock absorbers of cars with a spring suspension), when Fill the cylinder to the top with this, and pour the rest of the liquid into the reservoir.
      To prime the shock absorbers, use shock absorber fluid according to the lubrication chart. The amount of liquid to be poured must also strictly correspond to the filling volume of the shock absorber. The permissible difference can be no more than ± 5 cm3. Failure to comply with these recommendations will lead to disruption of the shock absorber and even its failure.
    4. Insert the rod with the piston into the slave cylinder, close the cylinder with the guide and then, carefully straightening the reservoir gland along the end of the guide, tighten the reservoir nut.
    Video (click to play).

    Bleed the newly assembled shock absorber before putting it on the car, moving the rod until the force becomes constant over the entire stroke. This is necessary to remove air from the cavities of the working cylinder.

    Front suspension springs UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 (Fig. 1) are located on the side along the longitudinal beams of the frame. The spring consists of eight sheets made of 50 HGA spring steel. The first sheet is 7 mm thick, the remaining sheets are 6 mm thick.

    The sheets are tightened with a center bolt 14 and clamps 4 to prevent lateral displacement of the sheets. From below, the clamps are riveted to the last sheet of the covered package, and from above they are bent onto the first sheet of the spring.

    Spring length - 1100 mm, sheet width - 55 mm, sheet profile - rectangular. The upper concave side of each leaf is shot blasted to increase the life of the spring.

    Fig. 1. Front suspension of the car UAZ-469, UAZ-3151, 31514

    1 - the front end of the spring; 2 - frame; 3 - spring; 4 — clamp; 5 — pad; 6 — buffer clip; 7 - shock absorber strut; 8 - shock absorber; 9 — shock absorber bracket; 10 - rear spring bracket; 11 - bracket; 12 - rubber bushing; 13 - washer; 14 - spring center bolt; 15 - ladders; 16 - lining of ladders; 17 - bracket support; 18 - earring bracket; 19 - the outer cheek of the earring; 20 - the inner cheek of the earring

    The ears of the root leaf are located symmetrically relative to the cross-section of the leaf. With such an arrangement of the ears, the pushing and braking forces acting along the spring do not cause additional bending stresses in the main leaf.

    The rear end of the spring is mounted on rubber bushings on the bracket 11, riveted to the frame longitudinal beam.

    The front end of the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 front suspension springs is pivotally suspended on a shackle by means of pins and rubber bushings.

    The spring is attached to the front axle using two ladders 15, lining 5 and lining 16.

    Attaching the rear spring of the front suspension to the frame is the same as attaching the front spring. The spring consists of nine sheets, which are 7 mm thick and 55 mm wide. Spring length 1250 mm.

    Suspension shock absorbers UAZ-469, UAZ-31514, 31512

    The damping of vehicle vibrations is provided by four double-acting hydraulic shock absorbers.

    The front and rear shock absorbers (Fig. 2) installed on the vehicle are the same in design and differ only in the length of the arm. For the front shock absorber UAZ-469, the lever length is 200, for the rear one - 255 mm.

    Maintenance of the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 suspension consists in checking the condition of the springs and shock absorbers and eliminating the identified faults.

    Springs and shock absorbers should be inspected at every service. In this case, it is necessary to check and tighten all the connections of the fasteners of the springs and shock absorbers.

    To prevent corrosion and eliminate the squeak of the springs, the sheets should be lubricated at least once a year.

    To lubricate the spring, it must be removed from the car, disassembled, rinsed in kerosene, dried and thoroughly lubricated with each sheet of the grease specified in the lubrication chart.

    Check that there is no shear of the center bolt of the spring, as this can cause longitudinal displacement of the sheets.

    Check and, if necessary, add fluid to the shock absorbers according to the lubrication chart.

    To add fluid, the shock absorber must be removed from the vehicle. Thoroughly clean the dirt around plug 26 (see Fig. 2) of the filler hole, clamp the shock absorber into the tool and unscrew the plug.

    When filling the UAZ-469, UAZ-3151, 31512 shock absorber with liquid, it is necessary to pump the lever up and down to remove air from the cylinders and add liquid in small portions until its level stops lowering when the lever is swinging.

    Fig. 2 - Shock absorber UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

    1-cylinder cover, 2,6 and 30-gaskets, 3-plate, 4-shock absorber body, 5 and 15-plugs, 7-roller, 8-cam, 9-thrust piston head, 10-tightening screw, 11-piston ; 12 — gland nut; 13 — washer; 14 - stuffing box; 16 - bushing; 17 - washer; 18 - finger; 19 - nut; 20 - rack bushing; 21 - rack; 22 - pillow cup; 23 - rack cushion; 24 - lever sleeve; 25 - lever; 26 - filler plug; 27 - plug of working valves; 28 — recoil stroke valve; 29 - compression stroke valve; 31 - piston outlet valve

    When pumping, the filling hole should be closed (you can use your finger) to avoid splashing the liquid.

    The liquid level in the crankcase must reach the lower edge of the horizontal fill hole of the shock absorber.

    In this case, the volume of the poured liquid is 145 cm3. The fluid should be changed once a year. On a new car, replace the fluid after driving the first 6 thousand km.

    To change the fluid, the shock absorber removed from the car should be thoroughly rinsed outside with kerosene, wiped dry, clamped in a vice by the lever (or make a special plate, fix it in a vice with the shock absorber installed).

    It is impossible to grip the shock absorber by the crankcase, as due to deformation of the cylinder walls, the pistons may jam and break.

    After that, unscrew the filler plug 26 and the service valve plugs 27, remove the valves and pour out the liquid from the body.

    The shock absorbers UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 should be washed with kerosene (gasoline), pouring it through the filler hole. In this case, it is necessary to rinse the body and thoroughly rinse the channels of the working valves.

    After flushing, the shock absorber should be dried and the service valves should be replaced by securely tightening the plugs of their seats.

    It is recommended that the aluminum gaskets under these plugs be replaced with new ones each time they are disassembled. Replacing aluminum gaskets with lead is not allowed, you can use soft red copper.

    The new uncompressed spacers are 0.8mm thick. This dimension is very important as the spring tension of the valves depends on it.

    After flushing the shock absorber, the working fluid is filled in the usual way. Special care must be taken to ensure that all service valves, compression valve and recoil valve are in place.

    It is not recommended to rearrange the valves of the same name from one shock absorber to another, that is, you should not put, for example, the recoil travel valve from one shock absorber to the corresponding place of another. All service valves are labeled for differentiation.

    The recoil stroke valve is stamped A1. It is placed in the shock absorber housing UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 from the side of the lever and is located above the axis of the working cylinder.

    The compression stroke valve has the KZ stamp and is placed in the body on the opposite side of the lever (located below the axis of the working cylinder).

    The valves should be rinsed in kerosene and dried before reinstallation. The service valves must be put in place so that there is no distortion.

    Disassembly of valves is not permitted. During operation, fluid may leak through the shock absorber shaft oil seal.

    In this case, tighten the gland nut. Do not use too much force when tightening. The approximate tightening torque should be 4-5 kg ​​/ cm.

    If the shock absorber does not work with a normal fluid level and serviceable valves, it must be replaced with a new one.

    Repair of the UAZ-469, UAZ-31514, 3151 suspension

    To repair the car's suspension assemblies, it is necessary to remove them from the car and disassemble them. After disassembling, cleaning and rinsing the parts, check their condition and determine their suitability for further work.

    Removing the springs should be done in the following sequence:

    - remove the ladders 15 (see Fig. 1), lining 16 and pad 5, then unscrew the nut of the shock absorber strut 7 and move the shock absorber lever up, then install the front part of the car on the stand, unscrew the bolts of the bracket 18 of the front end of the spring earrings and nuts brackets 11 of the rear end of the spring 10, remove the spring and disassemble the shackle with rubber bushings 12.

    Dismantle the suspension springs of the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 in the following sequence:

    - fix the spring in a vice for the head of the center bolt, bend the spring clamps, unscrew the nut of the center bolt and disassemble the spring. A puller can be used to press out the rear axle of the rear spring. After disassembling, thoroughly clean the sheets of dirt, rinse in kerosene and check their condition.

    Checking the condition and repair of springs UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

    There should be no cracks in the leaf springs. Springs in case of breakage of sheets or other parts, as well as in the appearance of a squeak of springs, are repaired by replacing damaged parts.

    The root leaf of the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 suspension spring must be replaced with a new one when the ear surface is worn out from friction with a finger during prolonged driving with worn rubber bushings.

    The spring pins must be replaced if there is wear from friction on metal when driving with worn rubber bushings.

    Spring bushings (rubber) should be replaced with new ones if the spring installed on the car has a noticeable displacement relative to the spring pin. Bushings with noticeable misalignment are very short-lived.

    They should be replaced promptly to avoid damage to the seating surfaces for these bushings in the brackets, springs and pins.

    On a car, the rubber bushings of the lower end of the earring wear out faster than others. Lower bushings worn up to 50% of the wall thickness are allowed to be interchanged with the upper ones, which wear much less.

    Settled springs that have whole sheets can be restored by straightening (straightening).

    The deflection arrow (curvature) of the sheets is checked with a template. With a decrease in the deflection arrow, the sheets are straightened in the cold state by hammering blows on the inner surface of the sheet.

    The blows begin to be applied from the middle of the sheet, moving towards the ends. As you get closer to the ends, the blows should be weaker. The deflection arrow (curvature) of each sheet is adjusted to the required dimensions.

    Reassemble the spring in the reverse order. At the same time, before assembling, lubricate the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 spring sheets according to the instructions on the lubrication card. Clamps are securely riveted to the sheets; the ends of the rivets of the clamps should not protrude above the surface of the sheets.

    The clamps after assembly of the spring should not impede the free movement of the sheets during operation. After assembly, paint the spring.

    If the gap between the leaves of the assembled spring in a free state, tightened by the center bolt, is more than 1 mm and is more than 1/4 of the total length of contact between two adjacent sheets, then the bent sheets must be replaced.

    Install the springs in the reverse order of removal. In this case, the bent ears on the first two sheets of the front spring should be facing back, and the end of the spring with an eyelet only on the first sheet should be facing forward.

    When installing the rear spring, the folded ears on the first two leaves of the spring should be facing forward, and the end of the spring with the eye on the first leaf should be facing back.

    Tighten the ladder nuts with a torque of 10-12 kg / cm. Finally, tighten the ladder nuts when the springs are loaded with the vehicle weight.

    Remove shock absorbers in the following order:

    - disconnect the lower end of the strut 7 (see Fig. 1) of the shock absorber 8, move the lever up, unscrew the nuts of the shock absorber mounting bolts, remove the bolts and remove the shock absorber, then unscrew the nut of the shock absorber strut pin and remove the strut. Install the shock absorber in the reverse order of removal.

    Dismantling of shock absorbers UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

    In garage conditions, only partial disassembly of the shock absorber is recommended. In this case, the plug 26 (see Fig. 2) of the filling hole, plugs 27 of the valves and the working compression and recoil valves can be removed.

    Complete disassembly and repair of shock absorbers should be performed only in workshops that have the necessary equipment for this.

    Damage to the shock absorbers is a sign of prolonged rocking of the vehicle after driving over bumps in the road.

    To check the condition of the shock absorber on the car, disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber strut UAZ-469, UAZ-3151, 31512 and move the lever up and down.

    If the lever moves freely for some part of the stroke, and then a significant effort is required to move it, then this indicates a lack of working fluid in the shock absorber housing.

    It must be refilled, otherwise it will lead to rapid wear of the bushings of the shock absorber struts, as well as to wear of the roller under the oil seal and to the appearance of a leak in this place.

    Stiff movement of the lever indicates broken parts, clogged valves, or a seized shock absorber piston. A very slight movement of the lever indicates the absence or lack of fluid, breakage of the cam on the splines of the shock absorber roller.

    In such a shock absorber, it is necessary to replace the fluid, having previously flushed the shock absorber crankcase and working valves.

    The most common occurrence is fluid leakage in the stuffing box. To access the oil seal, the levers must be compressed.

    The operation of removing the levers requires the use of a puller or tool to remove the lever on the press.If a leak in the stuffing box occurs due to malfunctions of parts of the stuffing box itself, then it can be eliminated by replacing the damaged parts.

    If the leak is caused by the wear of the bronze bushings of the shock absorber shaft, then such a shock absorber must be replaced.

    With a slight leak in the stuffing box, you should limit yourself only to more frequent topping up of fluid and tightening the stuffing box nut.

    If a leak appears from under the plugs of the working compression and recoil valves, the filler plug and the side covers of the shock absorber cylinder, it is necessary to tighten them.

    Due to the fact that one of the shock absorbers leaked, I decided to pump them. To begin with, it was necessary to find out the volume of fluid for filling the shock absorbers. In the book of the Seventies, it is written in the book of the 70s: GAZ-53 - 0.41 l, UAZ - 0.15 l (presumably for lever-operated ones).

    So, at 9-00 I arrived at the motor depot and changed into a robe. The workshop is packed with equipment, so I removed the AMO on the street, since the UAZ does not need a pit for this (although it is more convenient in the pit). I made measurements of the TANK NUT, for the manufacture of the key, they turned out to be similar to the UAZ ones described in the primer. From a piece of steel 8 mm thick, I made a key blank, cut it out with an autogen according to the marking, then processed the blank with a grinder. Marked and drilled through holes with a 5.5 mm drill (with an electric drill). From the same drill I made two pins 11 mm long (error 1 - it was necessary 14 mm), inserted them into the holes with a 6 mm outlet and welded them on the back side. Then I dropped the workpiece into a bucket of water (error 2 - it was necessary to allow to cool in the air). The key is ready, you can disassemble the shock absorbers.

    One of the shock absorbers was outwardly dry and clean (as far as amo is clean), the second was covered in oil with obvious drips and protruding pieces of the stuffing box near the stem. He began disassembling with a clean one in order to measure the volume of the working fluid. I used a medical bottle for intravenous injections and a 20-cc syringe as measuring containers. The liquid in the amo turned out to be only 300 ml. I measured out 410 ml and filled the shock absorber. About 370 ml entered the working cylinder, the rest was poured into the reservoir. Cuffs and seals have not changed, maybe in vain. During the assembly of the AMO, during the final tightening of the tank nut, the key broke (at the welding points the pins broke off). Affected by manufacturing errors, but the build completed successfully. I had to ask the locksmith to turn the key, and he himself inserted the reinforcement into the upper eyelet and pressed on it as much as he could. Thus, the casing tightly pressed the key to the reservoir nut. After pumping the AMO, in the extreme lower and upper positions, the stem breaks through (a knock is heard), which means that the volume of fluid does not exceed the norm. But little or not, I don't know.

    Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469

    Dismantled the second (leaking) amo, the volume of the liquid turned out to be the same. Before disassembling, I checked: up tight, down freely. The shock absorber had to be completely disassembled to replace the cuffs (there are two of them in the 53rd). One, as in the UAZ AMO, is in the oil seal cage, and the second, smaller, is on top. The procedure is as follows: reservoir nut - protective ring - small collar - washer - felt ring (namely felt, and not foam-urethane, as at UAZ) - gate washer - upper sealing ring - stuffing box cage - main seal - washer - spring - lower sealing ring - the rod guide sleeve (there is a transverse groove in it along the inner hole, and a rubber ring in the repair kit). Further, almost the same as at the UAZ. I measured out 410 ml of shock absorber fluid and filled the AMO. Collected everything.

    1. felt ring;
    2. protective ring;
    3. fiber washer;
    4. reservoir nut;
    5. oil seal holder;
    6. upper sealing ring;
    7. cuff;
    8. bottom o-ring;
    9. rod guide sleeve;
    10. casing;
    11. stock;
    12. bypass valve;
    13. piston;
    14. recoil valve;
    15. cylinder;
    16. storage tank;
    17. inlet valve;
    18. compression valve;
    19. compression valve body;
    20. compression valve limiter;
    21. eye

    • a - cuff (red);
    • b - rubber ring (red);
    • в - the old cuff modified (blue).It can be installed, it will serve as a bump stop.

    Time 12-15, lunch time. After lunch, with the help of a locksmith and a piece of reinforcement (according to the experience of assembling the first AMO), the AMO was assembled with a broken key. Prior to disassembly, the reservoir nut was not tightened by three threads, turned flush with the top edge of the reservoir.

    At 13-15, the shock absorbers are installed in place. I changed the key, extended the groove with a grinder, marked it out and drilled two through holes with a d = 4.1 mm drill. He heated the workpiece red-hot with a cutter and drove in the dowel d = 4.5 mm. Left to cool in the air, now it remains to process and the key is ready. It is necessary to sort out the front Amo.

    • The distance over the centers of the lugs in the compressed state is 380 mm; in the unfolded state 575 mm.
    • The volume of shock absorbing fluid is 410 ml.
    • Rod diameter 18 mm.

    Before installation, I took measurements on the machine. In the compressed state, the AMO secured to the upper eyelet, the distance from the center of the lower eyelet to the center of the bolt on the axle bracket was 95 mm, with a nine-leaf rear package of springs, this is more than enough for normal AMO operation. The rear suspension simply doesn't have that kind of travel.

    Shock absorbers are a kind of consumable for your car. Moreover, the cost of maintaining the suspension in working order is inversely proportional to the quality of the roads. Car owners are constantly looking for ways to save money on the repair and maintenance of their car. We will tell you about self-repair and restoration of the characteristics of the shock absorber struts.

    Typical malfunctions of this node are known to everyone:

    • Depressurization of the stem packing. Leads to oil leakage from the rack. It can leak at any time. The characteristics change up to a complete loss of performance.
    • Too free movement of the stem in the pipe. In fact, the strut turns from a shock absorber into a guide for the suspension spring. The malfunction is related to the internal valves.
    • Compression or rebound play. Associated with the development in the rod or cylinder. The consequences are similar to broken valves. The shock absorber does not perform its function in a car, it knocks, rattles and makes other unpleasant sounds, why driving in such a car becomes uncomfortable and dangerous.
    • External damage - dents on the body, cracks in the eyelet. Affects the chassis as a whole and can lead to more serious damage.

    If any malfunction is detected, it is necessary to remove the rack and release it from the spring. Dismantling is carried out in the garage, without the use of special tools.

    Sometimes the owners of foreign cars, noticing that their racks have leaked, turn to the service station for diagnostics, where they will carry out a check at the stand.

    In fact, this is not such an easy task. Before carrying out work, you should carefully study the material and observe safety precautions. First of all, you need to determine whether you have a collapsible shock absorber or not. The monolithic body is not repairable, opening with a grinder and brewing is unacceptable.

    If there is a nut or a retaining ring in the place where the stem enters the pipe, such a shock absorber strut can be serviced and repaired.

    Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469

    This is what a repairable rack looks like.
    • Compressor for supplying compressed air or pump for servicing bicycle shock absorbers.
    • Special connection for compressed air injection. Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469 Example of a blower connection
    • Retaining ring puller.
    • Spanner wrenches of the corresponding diameter, depending on the design of the rack.
    • Workbench and powerful vise.

    Attention! Safety must be taken care of. Work involves high pressure, so eye and hand protection is essential.

    1. The shock absorber is firmly fixed in a vice, the position is vertical. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the part and blow out the piston rod entry point with compressed air. It is disassembled - removing the protective cap of the stem. Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469 For convenience, the work is carried out in a vice
    2. Then a device for gas injection is put on the rod. We pump gas to the required pressure. Care should be taken during this operation.The pressure build-up procedure can be repeated several times until the desired adjustment is achieved. Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469 Use a pressure gauge for control. The method is suitable for gas and gas-oil racks
    3. After that, the stem oil seal is lubricated and a protective cap is put on the body.

    You can watch the process in the video.

    There are different opinions: how to fill a car shock absorber. Nitrogen, carbon dioxide or just compressed air? In a garage, there are few options. Compressed air will not degrade performance much, especially since this is a repair and not a factory made rack.

    1. The rack must be completely disassembled and cleaned of dirt and old oil. Check the O-rings and the condition of the inner pipe wall. Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469 Remove streaks and other contamination from all rack mechanisms
    2. Then the assembled rod in the pipe is placed in a container with oil (you can find out the type of fluid from the characteristics of your shock absorber). Oil is drawn in with a smooth movement. The procedure is repeated several times until the air bubbles disappear. You need to hold the part vertically. Image - DIY repair of shock absorbers UAZ 469 No special equipment is required to work with oil racks
    3. If the stand is non-separable, you can install a bleed nipple at the bottom. To do this, it is enough to drill a hole, fill the rack with oil through it and tighten the screw on the sealant or weld it. In this way, the owners of domestic cars with solid mileage restore the performance of the shock absorbers.