DIY asko repair

Why is self-repair of washing machines dangerous?

Self-repair in very rare cases can save the day. Most likely, in this way you will provoke the appearance of even greater breakdowns. Experts constantly warn owners of Asko washing machines against self-repair.
The professional staff of our workshop has everything you need for repairs. This includes special equipment, original spare parts, and high-quality materials. In addition, each of them regularly undergoes refresher courses and gets acquainted with new repair methods. All this knowledge is far from ordinary people, and therefore self-repair can lead to a complete loss of performance.
Many washing machine owners believe that repairing the unit yourself can save money. This is a misconception, as unprofessional intervention will cause serious problems, and their elimination will be costly.

Being engaged in professional repair of washing machines, you rarely have to deal with Asko washing machines. In Russia, they are much less common than Indesit, Samsung, LG and similar well-known brands. Repair of Asko washing machines, as well as breakdowns of such equipment, have their own specifics. These breakdowns will become the subject of our conversation.

As already mentioned, there are not many Asko washing machines in Russia, nevertheless, they break down quite often. Owners of washing machines of this brand contact the service centers of the country with approximately the same problems:

• the drum is not spinning or is spinning too slowly;
• the hatch either does not close at all, or does not lock;
• washing takes place in cold water, with any washing program, the water is not heated;
• the Asko washing machine refuses to drain the waste water and freezes.

In general, the situation with Asko's washing machines is quite surprising. It is known for certain that in Finland almost ¼ of all families use these automatic washing machines and are very satisfied. If we take the statistics of their service centers, then it is quite possible to put Asko washing machines on a par with Miele or AEG made in Germany. In Russia and the CIS countries, the situation is exactly the opposite, because our Asko washing machines break down more often than others.

For example, in Zelenodolsk there are only 7 Asko washing machines, if, of course, you believe the data of their service centers. And all these machines have been repaired several times with the same breakdowns: hatch, heating element, engine, pump, pipes. The quality of the parts is disgusting, and the assembly is not similar to the European one. In general, we asked ourselves the question of the true origin of Asko's washing machines, but we did not receive adequate information, so we return to our main question - typical breakdowns of washing machines of this brand.

For your information! Got a Finnish or Swedish Asko washing machine? Consider that you are in luck, even the second-hand Asko technique, which has worked in Europe for 10 or more years, is still working for the subsequent owners for another 15-20 years.

Most often, repair of Asko washing machines is required in cases where the engine rotates the drum with laundry poorly or refuses to rotate it at all. It would be a little easier to understand the problem and fix the car with your own hands if the self-diagnosis system always worked. And so it turns out, the drum does not spin and no errors pop up.

What is the reason? The most common cause of this behavior in a washing machine is the drive belt. It does not seem to jump off, but at the same time, sliding on the engine pulley, it cannot rotate the drum pulley normally.As a result, it turns out that the drum under load either stands at all or rotates extremely slowly at 100-150 rpm. At this speed, it will not be possible to squeeze out, wash and rinse out.

If you go deep into the problem, then the point here is not even the belt itself, since it, apart from scuffs, can be whole. It's about the engine pulley. How can I change it?

Perhaps a low-quality pulley was installed at the factory, or perhaps it gets damaged during operation, but the fact remains - the pulley spoils the drive belt and needs to be replaced!

Be careful! If the washing machine gives an error with the E01 code, the problem lies either in the engine itself or in the control board. In this case, it is better to consult a specialist.

Quite often, Asko's washing machines have to be repaired with their own hands because of the drum hatch, which does not want to be locked. It all starts with the fact that the hatch mechanism sometimes stops working, and the car freezes when starting. Usually, the hostesses quickly find a solution to the problem, pushing the hatch with their knee and restarting Asko's car. After that, she washes normally for a while. Then a year or two passes, or maybe less, the hatch mechanism stops working at all, and the machine, accordingly, stops washing.

In such a situation, "pushing with the knee" no longer helps; you have to disassemble the hatch closing mechanism and change the locking device. Read about what to do if the door of the washing machine does not close and how to fix it in the publication of the same name.

Slightly less often, Asko washing machines have a problem with water heating. Moreover, in most cases, the problem can be localized quite quickly, since when it occurs, the self-diagnosis system is triggered and an error with the E05 code appears on the display, less often the E06 error flies. What are the reasons for these errors?

• The thermal sensor does not work.
• There is no contact between the control module and the temperature sensor.
• The triac of the board, which is responsible for controlling the heating element, is out of order.
• Teng broke.

Which of these is broken in your Asko washing machine remains to be determined. Let's start with the diagnostics of the heating element and the temperature sensor. But before diagnosing these elements, you need to get to them.

Important! Most automatic washing machines have a heating element with a temperature sensor either in the back or in the front of the tank. In Asko washing machines, the heating element is "stuck in the side" of the washing tank.

With such an unusual placement of the heating element, how to get to it? Nothing complicated, we remove the back wall of the washing machine, remove the drive belt so that it does not get in the way, and now, the ten is already in front of our eyes, or rather its contacts sticking out from the side of the tank. What are we doing?

1. We take a multimeter and set the switch to the minimum value.
2. We disconnect the wires from the contacts of the heating element and the temperature sensor.
3. We connect the probes of the multimeter to the contacts of the heating element. If the device displays a resistance in the region of 28 ohms (with a heater power of 2 kW), it means that the heating element is working properly. If it shows zero or one, then it is defective.
4. Now let's check the resistance of the temperature sensor. Disconnect the drain pipe from the tank and drain all the remaining water from it into a suitable container.
   

Note! When you drain the water from the tank, do not flood the contacts, wiring and the engine, otherwise you will have to dry it all with a hairdryer.

1. We take out the thermal sensor from the connector and put it aside.
2. We collect warm water (30 0) in a mug and lower the temperature sensor there.
3. After a couple of minutes, we take it out, set the multimeter to the minimum resistance value and lean the probes against the sensor contacts. If the device reads 40-60 ohms, then everything is in order, 0-1, then it is not in order.

Then you can check with your own hands the wires going from the heating element and the temperature sensor to the control module by ringing them one by one. If the wires are intact, only the control module remains.We do not advise you to climb to the control board on your own, because if it is damaged, repairs will be very, very expensive - contact experienced craftsmen.

If Asko's automatic washing machine stops draining water and freezes, but at the same time it is dry under the washing machine, it means that one of the following breakdowns has occurred:

• clogged pipes or drain hose;
• the pump has broken;
• the water level sensor does not work;
• an open circuit has occurred between the control board and the pump or between the control board and the level sensor.

Before looking for the causes of the problem in electrical and electronics, we will arrange a general cleaning for Asko's washing machine. Cleaning the washing machine from dirt will require some effort, but after that, the normal drainage of water can resume, and the smell of "home assistant" will be very pleasant.

If cleaning does not help to solve the problem, you will have to arm yourself with a multimeter and check the pump, water level sensor, electrician for breakdowns one by one. First, we ring the pump, its working resistance value is 144 ohms, then you need to ring the water level sensor, its resistance should be about 60 ohms. Well, at the end, we will ring the wires going to the control module for a break, if there is no break, then the matter is in the microcircuit and you need to contact a specialist.

For your information! The pump and water level sensor can be reached through the back of the washing machine.

In conclusion, I would like to once again draw attention to the following point. Most of the breakdowns of washing machines can be eliminated by hand if you carefully read the service instructions and the information that we publish in our articles. But if the problem is in the electronics, then it is better not to make repairs on your own, even the specialist who re-solders the board does not give guarantees that it will work. Don't finish your washing machine, trust the professionals!

• Share your opinion - leave a comment

In the article, we will consider what malfunctions of Asko washing machines consumers may encounter, how to eliminate them and cases where there is a danger of self-repair.

The owners of such equipment ask service centers and workshops for help, reporting the same problems:

• The tank is not spinning or the drum is not spinning fast enough.

• The door cannot be closed or is blocked.

• The laundry is washed in cold water at the selected high temperature marks. The water remains cold during any program.

• The Asko washing machine does not drain the used water, the program hangs.

Of course, there are other breakdowns, but they are much less common.

In order to recognize the cause of the breakdown, the malfunction itself and make repairs at home, you need to know what the codes mean by which the washing machine reports the problem.

In Asko models, the most common error codes are: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E06, Door lock fault, Floaming, Over flov, Termistor fault, Pressure sensor error.

Consider in detail the reason for the occurrence and ways of solving each of them:

Error (title or translation)

The failure was caused by a failure of the control triac and the reverse relay on the control module. Connectors could "fly off" or the motor itself broke.

Does not collect enough water.

• There is no water supply from the water supply system.

• Broken valve for filling water into the machine.

• The water level sensor is out of order.

Waste water discharge problem.

The contacts of the drain pump (pump) could be out of order, the pump itself or the electronic controller was broken. The breakdown may also involve the water level sensor in the tank.

Not enough water is supplied to complete the program.

The inlet hose is clogged. Or there is simply not enough pressure in the water pipes.

The heating element has broken or the electronic module has failed.

Door lock fault

• Breakage of the locking device.

There is a lot of foam in the tank.

The dosage of the detergent may not be correct.Alternatively, you should give preference to products with a reduced level of foaming.

Too much water has filled the tank.

Overflow can be caused by broken:

Termistor fault

Open or short circuit of the temperature sensor (thermistor).

Pressure sensor error

Breakage of the water level sensor in the tank.

The sensor itself or the branch pipe connecting it to the drum could fail.

Not in all cases it is possible to carry out self-repair of such complex electrical equipment as a washing machine. But some of the breakdowns can be eliminated if you follow the instructions that we will give below.

If you are faced with a situation in which the engine fails to rotate the tank of laundry normally, or the drum is completely frozen, you need to figure out how this was provoked. The problem is that the self-diagnosis system does not always work. As a result, the washing machine does not work, but it does not show any codes on the display.

Try to figure out the cause yourself. Most often, the machine behaves this way because of the drive belt. It might not have jumped off, but the drum pulley still does not pick up normal speed. Then it turns out that even an incompletely loaded tank stands rooted to the spot, or does not rotate fast enough - only at a speed of 100-150 rpm. This is not enough to wash, rinse or wring out something.

Delving into the essence of the breakdown, you may find that the drive belt has nothing to do with it - it can be absolutely intact (apart from small scuffs, they are characteristic of “aged” parts). The result of the problem may be the pulley itself - either initially of poor quality, or damaged in operation. In this case, he spoils the belt and needs to be replaced himself.

If you decide to carry out the repair yourself without overpaying for the service, proceed in the following sequence:

2. Pull the drive belt off the pulleys and inspect for damage.

3. Inspect the engine pulley. If defects are found, the problem is in it - we proceed further.

4. Free the engine from the wires and remove it from the machine.

5. Equip yourself with a household bearing puller and blowtorch. Take whatever you need for your renovation and head to your garage, workshop, or the street, as it’s best not to do this kind of work in your home.

6. Place the puller on the engine pulley and apply sufficient tension. Do not try to rip off the pulley with the first movement - this will not bring results, and the puller may fly apart.

7. After warming up the blowtorch, heat the pulley, being careful not to involve other elements of the part in this process.

8. After you have warmed up the pulley well enough, it will easily come off.

9. Cool down the pulley, take it with you as a sample and go to the store for a new part. If you cannot find what you are looking for in stores or on the market, order online.

10. The new pulley must also be warmed up red for blowtorch installation.

11. After planting the pulley, cool it, then place the engine where it was. If the belt is badly damaged, replace it too.

12. Reattach the back panel. Plug in and test the machine with no load.

Important! If at the same time an error is issued E01, then the problem may be in the engine or control module. It is better to entrust the repair of these complex components to a good technician.

If the hatch does not close, then DIY repair is also possible - this breakdown in service centers is classified as light. It is not difficult to identify a breakdown - at first, the hatch mechanism does not work, and the machine freezes during the start of the wash program.

Consumers often do not consider this a serious problem and solve the issue by pressing the door harder and restarting the unit. After such actions, the machine washes, but not for long: maybe a year, or maybe a month. As a result, the mechanism takes its toll and stops working, so the machine sooner or later stops working.

It is necessary to disassemble the sunroof locking device (UBL) and change the locking mechanism. Therefore, having noticed even the first symptoms that the door of the machine does not want to be blocked, it is better to immediately inform a specialist about this or try to disassemble the washing machine on your own and replace the UBL.

A little less common is a problem with water heating, which is indicated by the code E05 or E06 on the display. This applies to washing machines with any load - vertical or horizontal. As we examined in the table, errors are triggered by several breakdowns.

If the contact between the sensor and the module is broken, the sensor does not send a signal to the controller that the water is not hot enough, and as a result, the machine washes it in ice water.

The triac of the board is responsible for controlling the heating element - a heating element. If the triac breaks down, the heating element does not start heating the water.

Everything is simple here - if the heating element is covered with scale and burned out, there is nothing to heat the water with.

Your task is to establish which of the above is to blame for the fact that the laundry is washed in cold water and, of course, is not washed from deep stains.

Important! Usually the heating element and the temperature sensor are located either in the front or in the back of the tank. But in the ASKO brand, the placement of the heater is non-standard - it is located on the side of the tank.

Not everyone knows how to get to the heater with this placement. But there is nothing difficult in this - unscrew the back wall, remove the drive belt (so that it does not interfere), and you will see the contacts of the heating element - they will "look" at you directly from the tank, from the side.

Then proceed strictly in the following sequence:

1. Equip yourself with a tester and set the regulator to min value.

2. Remove the contacts from the sensor and heater.

3. Connect the probes to the contacts. If the resistance on the tester's display is about 28-30 Ohm (the power of the heating element is usually 2 kW), then the part is in complete order. And if the display is 0 or 1, there is a breakdown.

4. Check the resistance of the temperature sensor - it may also be involved in the problem:

• Disconnect the drain pipe from the tank and drain the waste water into a bucket or other container (be careful not to flood the contacts, otherwise you will have to dry everything with a hairdryer).

• Remove the sensor from the connector (do not break or pull towards yourself - there is a special tab on the sensor; by pressing it, you can easily remove the sensor from the hole).

• Fill a mug or glass with warm water and dip the sensor into it to heat it up, leave for 2 minutes.

• Take out the sensor (fig. 1), take the tester, setting on it the minimum resistance value (fig. 2). Place the test leads to the contacts. Normal values ​​for a serviceable element are 40-60 ohms (Fig. 3). If you see 0-1, then the sensor can be thrown away.

5. Check also the wires connecting the heating element and the sensor with the controller, ringing each wire in turn. If they are all intact, then the cause of the breakdown is in the electronic module.

We strongly do not recommend trying to fix the work of the board on your own - remember that sometimes it costs up to 1/3 of the price of the washing machine, so in case of failure, repairs will be very expensive. Entrust the repair or replacement of the board to an experienced technician.

Whatever model your washing machine is (W402, W502, W512D, etc.), such a problem may occur in it: the water does not drain, the machine freezes, but there is not a drop of water under the body. The reasons for this:

• Clogged drain hose, nozzles.

• Breakdown of the drain pump (pump).

• Breakage of the water level sensor.

• Open circuit in the contacts of the pump or sensor with the electronic module.

Do not try to get close to the electronics right away - first arrange your typewriter "spring cleaning". Take the effort - and, perhaps, the problem will be resolved without repair. You need to clean everything - the pump, the drain hose, the pipes. This will take some effort, but normal drainage may resume.

If cleaning the problem does not solve the problem, arm yourself with a tester again and check everything that may be involved in the breakdown: the drain pump, the water level sensor and the electrician (wires and contacts).You can reach them through the back of the washing machine.

Ring the pump (pump) first. The working resistance of the pump is 144 ohms, the level sensor is 60 ohms. Other values ​​will indicate a breakdown. If all is well with the pump and sensor, ring the wires.

If no break is found, then the problem lies in the control board, and in this case, as we have already said, it is better not to save money and call the wizard.

Summarize. Most of the breakdowns can be eliminated by hand if you carefully read the service instructions and information in the article. Parts can be purchased in the store or ordered online. But if the problem is in electronics, it is better not to make repairs on your own: even a specialist who re-solders the board does not guarantee that it will work. Don't finish your washing machine, trust the professionals! And may this Swedish technique serve you for years to come.

Qualified specialists of the company's factories and the widespread use of recycling allow the devices to comply with European environmental and safety standards.

Asko equipment is distinguished by external ergonomics, convenient and understandable control system, high technical characteristics and economical consumption of resources. Recessed and free-standing, full-size and compact, it fits into any space.

Products are combined in design, which gives you the opportunity to harmoniously combine a washer, dryer, drying cabinet and other elements of your laundry in one space. And kitchen appliances built into furniture will save space and become part of a modern kitchen set.

Asko presents a diverse range of washing machines, dryers and dishwashers, as well as kitchen appliances - refrigerators, hobs, ovens and hoods. The European production culture guarantees careful control at every stage, which means durability and reliability of operation.

Experienced craftsmen who repair units for washing clothes rarely encounter models of this company. In the Russian markets, in comparison with Indesit, Samsung and other well-known brands, such a brand is quite rare. Repair of Asko washing machines, as well as the failures of such devices themselves, are distinguished by special specifics. This is exactly what the conversation will be about today.

Although these machines are much less common than others, they fail with the same persistence. Owners of such devices turn to service workshops for help with the same problems:

• the drum rotates too slowly, the tank does not spin at all;
• it is impossible to close the hatch, or it is completely blocked;
• washing of linen is performed in cold water even if high temperature conditions are determined;
• the washing machine does not drain the waste water, the program freezes.

Naturally, other breakdowns also occur, but they are much less common or are considered typical with machines from other companies.

Considering the cars of our brand, it should be noted that ASKO is distinguished by certain oddities. According to reliable sources, on the territory of Finland, a quarter of the inhabitants buy just such cars and are satisfied with their operation. But on the territory of Russia and other CIS countries, such machines are constantly out of order. And there are plenty of reasons for this - the quality of assembly work, hard tap water, poor detergent. There are problems due to violation of the operating rules, which are defined in detail in the operating instructions for the device.

Not in every case, you can do repair work with your own hands, because the machine is distinguished by complex electronics. But there are situations where it is quite possible if you follow the instructions below.

1. There is no drum rotation.

Most often, repair of Asko's washing machines is necessary in cases where the electric motor does not rotate the drum with things well enough or simply refuses to perform this function. It would be easier to understand the problem and repair the washing machine with your own hands if the self-diagnosis system worked constantly. But in fact, it turns out that the drum does not rotate, but error code is not displayed. What could be the reason? Most often, this problem occurs due to the drive belt. It does not jump, but it slips over the pulley and does not create normal rotation. It turns out that the drum is under load, or simply idle or spins slowly, producing from one hundred to one and a half hundred revolutions in one minute. But this speed is extremely low not only for spinning, but also for washing and rinsing.

If you take a deeper look at the problem, then the cause may not be in the belt itself, but in the motor pulley. Perhaps it was installed poorly at the factory, or it was damaged during operation, but the fact is obvious! So the pulley will have to be changed, proceeding as follows:

• the back panel is removed from the machine;
• pull off the drive belt from the pulley, inspect it;
• if damage is detected on the pulley, then it is necessary to disconnect all wires and unscrew the electric motor;
• it is necessary to take a bearing puller and a blowtorch, go outside, since it is not recommended to perform such work indoors;
• a puller is installed on the pulley, tension is created. Do not tear off the pulley immediately, as the puller can be broken;
• now you should light the lamp, warm it up and begin to gently heat the pulley with a flame. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that other metal elements do not heat up;
• the heated pulley must be dismantled almost independently;
• now it is necessary to cool it and purchase exactly the same item in the store;
• a new analogue is installed also in a hot state, incandescent to a red lamp;
• as soon as the new pulley sits in its place, it should be cooled, the engine and the drive belt should be installed, which is also changed beforehand;
• the panel is installed, the machine is connected and tested.

It must be remembered that if the machine issues an error code E 01, then the problem must be looked for in the electric motor itself or in the board responsible for the control. And such work is recommended to be entrusted to an experienced specialist.