DIY repair of the Audi 80 mono injection

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an Audi 80 mono injection from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Information applicable for car repairs:

Volkswagen Passat B4 / Volkswagen Passat B4 (3A2) 1994 - 1997
Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 (3A5) 1994 - 1997

Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 (312) 1988 - 1994
Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 (315) 1988 - 1994

Volkswagen Golf 3 / Volkswagen Golf 3 (1H1, 1H5) 1992 - 1998
Volkswagen Vento (1H2) 1992 - 1998

Volkswagen Golf 2 (191, 192, 193, 194) 1984 - 1988
Volkswagen Jetta 2 / Volkswagen Jetta 2 (165, 166, 167, 168) 1984 - 1988
Volkswagen Golf 2 / Volkswagen Golf 2 (1G1) 1989 - 1992
Volkswagen Jetta 2 / Volkswagen Jetta 2 (1G2) 1989 - 1992

SEAT Toledo (1L)

the work procedure is also suitable for other vehicles with the Mono motronic injection system

There have already been many similar topics, but questions continue to appear. Since I have already worked out my own, I will share and let there be another one with pictures, like instructions.
I began to have periodic problems with idling, then it stalls in wet weather, then it turns gas the next day after it freezes. Yes, in fact, it's time to work out with the injection, because I haven't touched it for several years ...
We start with the coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH), remove it and use it in a "saucepan" as a can, for example, a thermometer, a multimeter, snow from the street or ice from the refrigerator, a small tile. My thermometer "shook off" and used the multimeter temperature sensor.
We take a sensor, I have one, it is 10 years old:

Video (click to play).

We put snow or ice in the jar so that the temperature is about 0 and take the first measurement, then turn on the tile and measure it approximately every 10 degrees right up to a boil of 100 * C. There should be about a centimeter of snow so that the metal part of the sensor is immersed and no water gets on the contacts.
My measurements:
0 * C 7.25 kOhm
12 * With 4 kOhm
20 * C 2.75 kOhm
30 * C 1.89 kOhm
40 * C 1.34 kOhm
50 * With 1 kOhm
60 * C 665 Ohm
70 * C 500 Ohm
80 * C 360 Ohm
90 * C 276 Ohm
100 * C 188 Ohm
And compare with the chart from the forum:

My testimony is close enough and what is called "will go".

We turn to the intake air temperature sensor (DTVV), first you should check the wiring from the connector to the element ("crystal", "tablet" ...). Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture ... Both wires showed an overestimated resistance, one about 5 Ohm, the other almost 200 Ohm, which means that the conductors in the nozzle lid are acidified, and they need to be duplicated. To do this, I machined the grooves with a drill, laid new wiring and soldered to the connector pins and the element itself. Then he covered it with poxipol, epoxy, etc.
Drill:

mikantara

sankalee

Image - DIY repair of the Audi 80 mono injection

Andrey

firstly, you need to check the rubber gasket under the carburetor for air leaks, and secondly, the ignition with a timing belt and check the operation of the lambda probe, it seems that basically everything is about this engine in terms of gasoline consumption.

sankalee

25 liters is enough for 130 km! so it's not he ... but not a little

Andrey

It is easy to check the dtvv sensor in the manual, I laid it out somewhere, look on the forum, there is a writing of a temperature dependence graph, you will understand the resistance of the worker or not on the docks that are laid out, and the way to repair it is quite cheap, since the sensor itself changes only with the nozzle cover and it costs farm 1800 with kopecks

sankalee

timing belt, gum not! lamda did not look. Is it really on the monomotronics?

Andrey

basically, the breakdown of this sensor lies in the wires going to it, they fray, repairs are simple thrown over the top, new ones can be called by disconnecting the plug from the connector to the nozzle, there are four of them, internal to the nozzle, external to the temperature sensor

Andrey

Damn, how did you check the gum? start the engine, warm up and only then just swing the carburetor if the rpm floats, it means that the rubber band is replaced, the lambda is 100%, it stands on the exhaust manifold almost at the exit looking towards the hood or I don’t remember exactly at the right fender.

sankalee

and checked it! rocked warmed up (first warmed up then rocked)

that the link does not work! in Google throws

Today, on the roads of the CIS, you can find various models with an injection engine and carburetor cars. Much less common are cars with the so-called mono-injector or mono-injection, since this type of internal combustion engine is an early development, acting as a transitional solution from the carburetor to the usual injector.

As for mono injection, such a system was used in the construction of German cars in the late 80s. For example, the mono-injector is found on versions of the well-known Audi 80, the popular Volkswagen B3, etc. Also, a mono-injector is found on many models of Japanese cars. Next, we will talk about the device and principles of the monoinjection, and also consider how to set up the monoinjection system with your own hands.

As already mentioned, the mono-injector is no longer a carburetor, while it is very different from a modern multipoint injection injector. A feature of this solution is that it is based on only one injection nozzle, which injects fuel. If we compare monoinjection with carburetors, the advantages are obvious, since the monoinjector provided ease of starting the engine, reduced fuel consumption, there was no need for flexible adjustment, which cannot be said about the carburetor dosing system. Drivers with mono injection reported better engine performance while saving fuel.

The specified nozzle is installed above the throttle valve, and the atomized fuel enters directly into the hole that is present between the body and the valve. In parallel, the fuel injection through the injector is additionally synchronized with the ignition (ignition pulse). The device also uses various sensors that help to optimize the injection in relation to different operating modes of the internal combustion engine to obtain the required composition of the fuel-air mixture. The distribution of fuel over the cylinders of the engine occurs at the intake.

It should be added that certain advantages of mono-injection allowed the solution to compare favorably with the carburetor at the initial stage, while the further development of the engine power injection systems led to the rapid abandonment of mono-injection injection and its replacement with distributed injection. This is one of the main reasons why the mono-injector is less common, since at one time the system simply did not have time to get really wide and massive distribution.A significant disadvantage of the solution is also rightly considered the low maintainability and high cost of individual spare parts. Even the single injection system did not provide proper compliance with constantly changing environmental standards, as a result of which it was soon replaced by more advanced solutions.

The correct operation of the single injection system depends on the crankshaft speed, on the ratio of the volume of incoming air and its mass, on the angle to which the throttle valve is open, on the absolute pressure in the intake, etc. There is also a connection with an oxygen sensor (lambda probe). The signal from the oxygen sensor is fed to the adaptation system, which adjusts the operation of the single injection, making the necessary changes in different operating modes of the internal combustion engine. It is quite obvious that during the operation of the car, malfunctions occur in the specified system.

Taking into account the fact that the scanner cannot determine the error, it is necessary to check in turn the individual elements that may affect the operation of the mono-injector. The following breakdowns are noted in the list of faults:

Above, we have discussed the most common problems associated with a mono injector. In the case when an independent check does not work, it is better to visit a car service. Also, the mono injection system after repair, cleaning or as a result of failures must be adjusted and additionally diagnosed. Let's see how this is done using the example of a Volkswagen B3 with a mono-injector.

To solve the problem, you need to slightly unscrew the screw 4 on the throttle cover, after which the multimeter is connected to pins 1 and 2. Then the cover is slowly turned in different directions, recording the voltage changes on the multimeter at each displacement. By such actions, it is necessary to achieve the recommended voltage readings. As a result, a serviceable mono injection with all operable and connected sensors will function normally after adjusting and cleaning the throttle.

There is a lot of information on the network on the repair and maintenance of the wonderful Audi80 car. We have used this many times, looking for what we need on the vast expanses of the Internet. And just recently the idea was born to put together all the scattered information on the topic "How to put the motor in order".We will only talk about electrics (electronics), that is, about engine management, primarily about checking, adjusting and tuning the injection and ignition system. The mechanical part (piston group, gas distribution mechanism, etc.) will be left for the future.So, our hero is a 1991 Audi 80, 1.8l PM engine, fuel system - Mono-Jetronic, ignition system - Motronic.1 The first step is mechanical. As mentioned above, the first step is to make sure that the mechanical part of the engine is in good condition, namely, normal compression, moderate oil consumption, serviceable valves and hydraulic lifters, the timing belt is correctly (according to the marks) installed, the ignition timing is adjusted, etc. .d., otherwise all subsequent steps are meaningless.2 The next step is massive. The negative terminal of the battery (do not offend the positive one either), the wires from the terminal to the engine, car body, gearbox, etc., unscrew everything that you see and sand it to clean metal. And the terminals themselves and the bolts and washers, everything should shine. If you have never done such a procedure before, you will be pleasantly surprised by the disappearance of many annoying symptoms - traction dips, jerks, misfires, and traction will improve significantly.3 The third step is vacuum. Everyone knows that any unauthorized air leak changes the qualitative composition of the air-fuel mixture and, accordingly, disrupts the operation of the engine. There are not many vacuum hoses on our engine, special attention should be paid to the vacuum brake booster hose, especially near the intake manifold.There is a small branch pipe at the very end, so feel it carefully and replace it at the slightest suspicion of infidelity. There are also vacuum hoses on the air filter plate. In any auto parts store, similar vacuum hoses are sold, they cost a penny. If the ignition system is different from ours, then there may still be vacuum hoses on the distributor.4 The fourth step is prickly. For a cold start in Audi 80 cars, an intake manifold heating is provided, popularly a hedgehog. The reason for the name is banal - it actually looks like a hedgehog, the same in appearance is prickly. It is located under the "carburetor" of the single injection in the deepest part of the intake manifold. To access the hedgehog, it is necessary to completely remove the "carburetor" of the single injection and you will immediately see it and will not confuse it with anyone due to the peculiarities of the appearance of the hedgehog family.Hedgehogs affect the operation of only a cold engine; when it warms up, the troubles disappear. Symptoms often coincide with malfunctions of other elements, for example, the coolant temperature sensor DTOZH. Or a slowly dying lambda has similar characteristics. Therefore, it is worth making sure that the hedgehog is in good working order, especially since it is not difficult to do this.On the mono injection on its right side (in the direction of travel) there is a short red wire with a single-pin plug.This is the hedgehog's feed wire. We disconnect the plug, connect it to the end that comes out of the wire bundle, for example, a carrier or a voltmeter. The second end is to ground. We start the engine and observe. Note that hedgehogs are handled differently. On early models with three sensors on the tee of the cooling system, one of the sensors is responsible for the power supply; at a low coolant temperature, it closes, turning on the corresponding relay. When warmed up, respectively, it opens. On such an engine, it is enough to turn on the ignition and the voltage will already be supplied to the hedgehog. On later engines, the hedgehog's power is controlled by the brains and the voltage is supplied only after starting the engine. If power is supplied, and the suspicion still falls on the hedgehog, remove the "carburetor" of the single injection, apply + 12V to the pink wire and touch the hedgehog with your hand. If it’s warm, then it’s a worker. If not, there is a direct road to your store. Although some argue that it can be cured ...5 The fifth step is wiring. This check is due to the old age of the vehicle. Due to vibrations, friction, temperatures, etc. wires tend to deteriorate over time, especially in places where they are bent and subject to increased vibration or moisture. Most often this occurs in the place where the bundle of wires on top of the valve cover bends around the engine, and then next to the intake manifold goes to the mono-injection plugs. The photo shows the cured wires with scars, wrapped in electrical tape.We solved the problem for ourselves as follows. Having removed the glove compartment, we got to the brain (engine control unit).We took off ALL the plugs in the engine compartment (on the engine, gearbox, monica, everything that we found) and, armed with a squeaking tester, rang out all the wires from the aforementioned plugs. ALL these wires from all plugs and sensors go directly to the brain. Thus, you will accurately determine whether you have breaks and short circuits and whether you need to meddle in the wiring.I must say that we had two breaks - both from temperature sensors: DTOZH and intake air temperature sensor on the Monica. Now the wiring is in order, let's move on.6 The sixth step is temperature. The temperature sensors mentioned above deserve a separate topic: the Coolant Temperature Sensor (DTOZH, also known as the blue sensor) and the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (located directly on the single injection nozzle). Needless to say, the importance of their correct operation, let's talk better about how to check them. It turns out to be as easy as shelling pears. Here is the graphFor fun, we boiled our blue sensor and checked for dips during gradual cooling. There were no failures. They say that it is enough to measure the resistance at two points: in the morning (after an overnight stay) and on a fully warmed-up engine.Obviously, in these cases, the easiest way is to determine the temperature of the sensor and, accordingly, its resistance. At the slightest suspicion of infidelity - in the trash heap. Undesirable.7 Seventh step - filter. Just one phrase - make sure the fuel and air filters are in order.8 The eighth step is fuel. It is worth making sure that the pressure in the fuel system meets the requirements. For this, they say, you need to connect a pressure gauge to the fuel system and make the appropriate measurements. However, in one smart German textbook on Audi 80 cars, we found an interesting way to test the performance of a gas pump.To do this, disconnect the intake manifold from the Monica, put it in a suitable container, for example, a regular plastic beer polish, and turn on the starter for 30 seconds. During this time, the gas pump should pump about 700 ml, half of a polish. Otherwise - for a replacement.True, in this case, it is not very clear what to do with the pressure regulator and residual and other pressures in the fuel system. But the tutorial says that such a check is sufficient. We believed.9 The ninth step is the exhaust. The catalyst is usually noticed when it starts to ring. However, it is worth taking it off and checking if it is clogged. There is a suspicion that a clogged catalyst distorts the lambda readings, which leads to engine malfunctions, more precisely to malfunctions in the fuel system. The question is probably controversial, but we were not too lazy to remove it, especially since it is not so difficult. Here's what we saw Image - DIY repair of the Audi 80 mono injection

Whitish stains are our fingerprints, initially they (stains) were not.

It looks like we shouldn't have removed the catalyst, but we made sure that everything is in order. Let's go further.

10 The tenth step is oxygen. Since we're talking about the exhaust, we need to finish the topic with a Lambda probe, aka an oxygen sensor. The principle of operation, if you do not go into details, is simple. The sensor sniffs the exhaust, determines how much unburned oxygen is in it and sends a signal to the brain to adjust the amount of fuel injected. But how can you check it? They say it is possible in garage conditions to measure the voltage at the output of the sensor with an ordinary voltmeter (preferably a pointer). On a working lambda, it should be from 0.2 to 0.8 V and fluctuate constantly, especially when over-gasing.

We had just that, but reading errors from the brain stubbornly showed a lambda error, and not immediately, but a day or two after the errors were reset. This was noticeable in the operation of the engine. You drive normally for a couple of days, then it starts to pop and spit in a black smoke. So I had to change the lambda.

By the way, advice on replacing lambda. Unscrew it only on a hot engine, otherwise the hana of the thread will come. Here's what happened, a couple of threads from the thread on the sensor remained. It's good that the collector survived :))

11 The eleventh step is fiery. If the engine starts, then most likely the low-voltage part of the ignition system is working properly. Therefore, we will limit the test to the high-voltage part: candles, distributor, wires, slider, coil. The black carbon deposits must be removed from the candles. If it (carbon) is wet and difficult to remove, candles can be ignited, for example, on a gas stove or over a fire, and then cleaned with an iron brush.

We check the distributor cover visually for cracks, burns, moisture, the carbon brush should be undamaged and easily move under the action of a spring. The carbon deposits on the contacts can be carefully cleaned off with a screwdriver or knife.

Slider - resistance should be between 600-1400 ohm. No cracks, carbon deposits.

High-voltage wires, resistance on the site - for candles - 4000 - 6000 ohms, for a coil - 600-1400 ohms. And also there are no visible damages, such as cracks, scuffs, etc.

Ignition coil - primary winding resistance - 0.52-0.76 ohms. Secondary winding - 2400-3500 Ohm. We had different values, apparently because a different ignition system was installed. Our whole car is not a standard one, probably a transitional model.

In general, the elements of the high-voltage part, in our opinion, are not very capricious. However, they are inexpensive and if in doubt, it is better to replace the dubious part.

12 This completes the preparation and testing of engine components. Only the "carburetor" of the single injection and its body kit remained untested. The nozzle itself - we will not consider it, everything is simple here - when the engine is running, the correct cone of the injected fuel should be visible, and on a muffled one, it should not drip. And two wonderful and very important devices for us - a potentiometer (aka a throttle position sensor) and a regulator with a built-in idle speed sensor (aka IAC, aka a positioner, aka a stepper motor). Both are on the throttle shaft: positioner at the front, potentiometer at the rear.

13 How to check and repair the IAC see here. In our opinion, such a procedure completely eliminates the problems with the idle sensor regulator on Audi 80 cars.

14 Before the process is complete, we have only two steps left to do - check the potentiometer and adjust the entire system. We will talk about this in the next article.

Auto repair. The usual consumable is a rubber-metal gasket that is located under the single injection. It is rarely changed, but nevertheless, a worn-out gasket can lead to the fact that the engine begins to suck in extraneous air. This leads to difficult starting, poor acceleration and, in some cases, overheating of the engine. This photo report shows how to do it yourself by replacing the single-injection gasket on an Audi 80 B4. Replacing the gasket is a rather time-consuming process, but if you follow our instructions, then even an inexperienced person can make a replacement.
First of all, you need to remove the adsorber valve (marked with a red arrow in the image). The valve is fixed with a rubber ring, the width of which

Car repair. A common consumable is a rubber-metal gasket that is located under the single injection. It is rarely changed, but nevertheless, a worn-out gasket can lead to the fact that the engine begins to suck in extraneous air. This leads to difficult starting, poor acceleration and, in some cases, overheating of the engine.

This photo report shows how to do it yourself by replacing the single-injection gasket on an Audi 80 B4. Replacing the gasket is a rather time-consuming process, but if you follow our instructions, then even an inexperienced person can make a replacement. First of all, you need to remove the adsorber valve (marked with a red arrow in the image). The valve is secured with a rubber ring, the width of which is

The ring is simply pulled off the pan guide. To help us, we need a flat screwdriver. After using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws on the lid, then snap off the 7 latches in a circle and remove the pan lid. In the image, the arrows mark three nuts, take out the filter and unscrew them.

Next (indicated by the red arrow) remove the metal bracket-gasket. We loosen the clamps and pull off the tee hose for suction of crankcase gases from the valve cover and the crankcase tube. The hose is at the back. Then we remove the "pan", while simultaneously disconnecting the hose going to it.

This hose goes from the thermal valve standing in the Monica pan (in the photo above it is on the left in the pan body), to the Monica fitting - this hose will be available when the pan is slightly raised above the Monica. Next, click on the bracket, disconnect the two connectors in front. After the back of the monica, by pressing on the bracket, we disconnect the plug of the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the plug of the hedgehog-heater (Yellow arrows indicate the TPS connector, red - the hedgehog connector). You do not need to disable anything else.

Then, using the head 10, unscrew the 4 bolts. The bolts are unscrewed - we remove the monik from the collector and move it back to the battery. It rests on the collector heating hoses. We remove the gasket itself.

There is no need to lubricate the new gasket.An O-ring is provided for this. We put in place the O-ring. We assemble in the reverse order.

The assembly is complete. Subscribe to the channel: youtube. com / channel / UCGk6cCVA28vK4Ph5rPIj2yw Auto repair.

A common consumable is a rubber-metal gasket that is located under the single injection. It is rarely changed, but nevertheless, a worn-out gasket can lead to the fact that the engine begins to suck in extraneous air. This leads to difficult starting, poor acceleration and, in some cases, overheating of the engine. This photo report shows how to do it yourself by replacing the single-injection gasket on an Audi 80 B4.

Replacing the gasket is a rather time-consuming process, but if you follow our instructions, then even an inexperienced person can make a replacement. First of all, you need to remove the adsorber valve (marked with a red arrow in the image). The valve is secured with a rubber ring, the width of which is

1 centimeter. The ring is simply pulled off the pan guide.

To help us, we need a flat screwdriver. After using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws on the lid, then snap off the 7 latches in a circle and remove the pan lid. In the image, the arrows mark three nuts, take out the filter and unscrew them. Next (indicated by the red arrow) remove the metal bracket-gasket.

We loosen the clamps and pull off the tee hose for suction of crankcase gases from the valve cover and the crankcase tube. The hose is at the back. Then we remove the "pan", while simultaneously disconnecting the hose going to it. This hose goes from the thermal valve standing in the Monica pan (in the photo above it is on the left in the pan body), to the Monica fitting - this hose will be available when the pan is slightly raised above the Monica.

Next, click on the bracket, disconnect the two connectors in front. After the back of the monica, by pressing on the bracket, we disconnect the plug of the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the plug of the hedgehog-heater (Yellow arrows indicate the TPS connector, red - the hedgehog connector). You do not need to disable anything else. Then, using the head 10, unscrew the 4 bolts.

The bolts are unscrewed - we remove the monik from the collector and move it back to the battery. It rests on the collector heating hoses. We remove the gasket itself. There is no need to lubricate the new gasket.

An O-ring is provided for this. We put in place the O-ring. We assemble in the reverse order. The assembly is complete.

Honestly, well they nafig. The last time this one came to flush the nozzles, and black smoke from the muffler. The repair kit cost 30 thousand rubles.

matveev, thanks, found about the pressure.

studubeiker, The elastic band is new, there is a problem in the valve of the KPA, until we can find a new one

matveev, Well, at least it's elementary to see if the temperature sensors are working correctly, the pedal limit switch (that is, the dampers), or is it all not displayed in the program?

on this car it is faster to measure it with a tester.
check the readings of the dk and the limit switch pxx

Added after 40 seconds

The KPA was already plugged, the tube was drilled. In this state, we start a cold car, somehow it goes to 1200 rpm. and then smoothly falls to stagnation.
At the same time I look at the damper, it just doesn't move at all, but it seems like it should? or should I just not see her movements?

But without a "plug", by the way, it works much smoother, but again through the hole in the plug a constant whistle goes

A common consumable is rubber-metal gasket which is located under the single injection. It is rarely changed, but nevertheless, a worn-out gasket can lead to the fact that the engine begins to suck in extraneous air. This leads to difficult starting, poor acceleration and, in some cases, overheating of the engine. This photo report shows how do it yourself replace the single-injection gasket on the car Audi 80 B4... Replacing the gasket is a rather time-consuming process, but if you follow our instructions, then even an inexperienced person can make a replacement.

To replace the gasket you will need:

10 spanner (a ratchet wrench and a 10 head are better);
Pliers;
Flat and Phillips screwdriver;
New gasket;

1 centimeter. The ring is simply pulled off the pan guide. To help us, we need a flat screwdriver. After using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws on the lid, then unscrew the 7 latches in a circle and remove the pan lid.

Monoinjection is a simple thing. At least that's what they say 🙂
This is not the first year that I have been periodically bothered by dips in traction, which appear more often in damp weather. It looks as if the ignition was turned off for a split second and then turned on. There is a failure, followed by a sharp jerk. From the outside, it sometimes looks as if a kettle is sitting behind the wheel, which has not yet made friends with the clutch 🙂 And it is interesting that exactly the same behavior is observed in a friend on the same car. He has already changed everything that was possible, including a new distributor, no difference.

And, perhaps, with the exception of the engine control unit and the potentiometer, there are no old parts left in the ignition system. Until recently, it was not possible to buy a potentiometer separately. It was sold only in assembly with the lower part of the single injection, only the original and cost absolutely cosmic money about 34,000 rubles. But not so long ago, the Chinese closed this market niche by releasing a replacement for this potentiometer for a ridiculous 1600r. In general, for those to whom this topic is relevant, I made this report. First of all, we get to the mono injection by removing the air housing.

Filter. This process will not be described, it has already been done a million times. When the engine was running without the housing cover, I noticed the effect of icing on the damper. Because the air is taken from the street, and not heated from the exhaust manifold, as is done in the assembled version.

As an experiment, I put on the lid for a minute, after which I looked again there was no ice. CHTD. This effect, by the way, also torments many users of m / v (monoinjection), and it was even given the name THM or Temperature Glitch Monoinjection. But now, in fact, I'm not talking about that at all 🙂
So that's it.

We start by checking the correctness of the IAC end switch gap setting. 1) with the ignition off, remove the block from the IAC connector and supply 6V to the two top contacts of such a polarity so that the regulator stem completely retracts
2) we adjust the position of the shock absorber 1 so that when the throttle is released, the gap 2 disappears completely, after which the shock absorber is literally recessed by 1-2 mm. 3) we connect the tester set to the dialing mode to the two lower terminals of the IAC (terminals of the limit switch 3). It is very convenient if the tester in this mode is still able to squeak, so that you can determine the closure of the limit switch by ear
4) using probes with a nominal value of 0.45 and 0.

5mm we check and, if necessary, adjust the gap between the throttle stop screw and the IAC rod 4. With the correct setting, the limit switch should close when inserting the 0.5 probe, but when inserting the 0. 45 probe it should not close.

If no one's playful pens have yet managed to get to your mono injection, then most likely, after completing steps 1-2, you will have the correct IAC clearance. Now let's make a control measurement of the voltage on the potentiometer. By removing the protective rubber from the potentiometer connector, we can get a tester to its terminals. Turn on the ignition (DO NOT CONNECT IAC connector)
First, we measure the value of the reference voltage, the voltage at terminal 5. If it differs from 5V by more than 0.

2, then you should look for a malfunction in the electrical (most likely a voltage stabilizer in the engine control unit). If the voltage seems to be correct, then move on to measuring the voltage between terminals 1 and 2. In my case, it was equal to 0. 21V.Prying the caps off with a knife, remove them from the potentiometer mounting bolts and, after making marks of the current position, remove it from the bottom of the mono injection.

As you can see from the photo, my potentiometer was visually far from being in the worst shape. Just like the sliders. But while wiping the mating surface on the m / v body with a rag, I accidentally hooked the top slider and bent it slightly, then I had to painstakingly set it to its original position. Therefore, be extremely careful in this place.

The runners are VERY soft and gentle! We put the new potentiometer in its place and slightly tighten it with the bolts so that the sliders reach the potentiometer board, but at the same time we still have the opportunity to slightly move the potentiometer around the throttle axis. With the ignition on, measure the voltage
between 1 and 2 terminals and adjust the position of the potentiometer so that it is within
from 0. 18 to 0. 2 V. When the bolts are tightened, the potentiometer shifts slightly and the voltage goes away. Therefore, it must be constantly monitored and, if necessary, by light tapping, adjust the position of the potentiometer so that the voltage remains within the specified limits.

Turn off the ignition. The operation is complete. After a certain number of attempts, I managed to set it exactly to 0. 19 V. Just in case, I measured the resistance between terminals 1 and 2 850 Ohm (measured on a potentiometer with the connector disconnected).

We put on the bolt caps in their place,
connect the IAC connector, put on the rubber cap of the potentiometer connector and replace the connector itself. We start the engine. In my case, the car started up perfectly fine as if nothing had happened. Conclusion I haven't done any test trips yet, so I can't say whether the replacement helped or not. But on the twentieth century, the engine began to run smoother.

I will observe in dynamics. It is also still necessary to carry out the adaptation of the DPDZ with the help of VAG-COM, but I have not had time to do this either. Then I will supplement the post. When carrying out the work, I used a report (more complete) from volkswagen.

Read also: DIY rubber suspension repair

Msk:
UPD Drove to work. I can state unequivocal
positive result! 🙂 Smooth XX on a cold and hot engine, there are no dips and jerks, the thrust is uniform. In general, the time was definitely well spent! :).

Status:

Hello to all! So I decided to write how to install the TPDZ (throttle position sensor) on a single injection! Because topics on this issue often come up, but there is no general topic where everything is stipulated!

To begin with, this requires the following tool:
1. A tester, preferably digital
2. A set of thoraxes
3.Alcohol
4 cotton swabs
5. Analogue tester (pointer)
6.Oscilloscope is desirable
7.Stroboscope (in my case Iskra1 80s)

Problems associated with TPS: Dips when starting off, at low DZ positions (I had 9-11 *) dips in engine operation until the internal combustion engine stops (internal combustion engine), fuel consumption is slightly increased (by about 1 liter), insufficient dynamics, during adaptation DZ popped up an error of the DZ potentiometer (unfortunately I don't remember the number), when warming up, especially in the cold season (temperature -5 * and more), the effect of XX swimming was observed (not even swimming, but gassed itself, as if someone had given gas and released it), at the end, when the DPDZ already died, the unstable XX and frequent stops of the internal combustion engine, especially on a cold engine.
I want to make a reservation right away that this is all true only if everything else in the engine and electronics of the car is working properly and adjusted (timing marks, ignition is set, lamba probe (oxygen sensor) is 100% alive and its mileage is not more than 100t.km, DTOZH is working and corresponds to the characteristic temperature resistance, the IAC is operational, the candles, BB wires, the slider and the distributor cover are operational, and all consumables are replaced). Otherwise, you can make out a serviceable and innocent TPS!

A simple way to disassemble, clean and assemble for those who first read and then do!

From the beginning we warm up the car to 90 *. To measure the initial voltage 0 * DZ, for this you need to push the IAC rod to the end, you can do it in three ways:

1. Remove the connector from it and apply voltage to the top 2 contacts (for 4-pin IAC) in such a polarity that its stem moves to the end. It is desirable to supply voltage from a 6v battery, if there is no 6v source, 12v can be supplied but through a 12v 5W light bulb, it will act as a limiting resistance so as not to break the IAC gearbox. Done with the ignition off.

2. If you are alone and there is no 6c source, turn on the ignition, approach the engine from the right side (in the direction of travel) with one hand, open the DZ so that you can press the IAC end switch, at this moment IAC will move in (we press the end switch with the same hand, which we open the DZ) and then it will move out a little, so you need to catch such a moment when it has moved in, but has not yet had time to move out and disconnect the connector (respectively, with the other hand) from it, if it did not work out the first time. Let's try again, I manage to do this from the first second time!

3. Unscrew the 3 bolts for the thorax and remove the IAC.

The IAC rod is removed now it is necessary to check whether the IAC rod rests on the DZ, otherwise the voltage measurement will be inaccurate. How to check the gap and adjust after cleaning is described here.

Everything is ready to measure the voltage, the ignition must be turned on, we take a digital tester and measure the voltage between 1 and 2 feet of the DPDZ (the contacts are counted from right to left, contact 3 is absent), while we open and close the DZ several times in order to more accurately measure the voltage it perhaps it will not always be the same, then we are looking for the arithmetic mean, but it should still be very close to the voltage 0.18-0.2v + - 0.2v, if this is not so, then this method, unfortunately, does not suit you because your TPS is very worn out and you will have to make adjustments according to the second method using a computer and other means! They measured it and wrote it down on a piece of paper, otherwise you will safely forget the value while you clean it.

Now we remove the mono injection from the car.
In the walkie-talkie, how to remove a single injection: remove the corrugation from the air filter to the single injection 2 clamps, disconnect 2 hoses behind the single injection on a thicker separator on a thinner hot cold air damper (plastic fittings are neat), unscrew the snail 3 bolts for 10 keys, disconnect the gas cable , we disconnect all the wiring from the single injection (nozzle, IAC, DPDZ, hedgehog heating), we still remove the hedgehog heating wire from the single injection holder, disconnect the fuel hoses. mono injection in hand!

Now you need to measure the resistance of the tracks between different contacts as in the table and write down all the values on a piece of paper, so that you can then compare with those that will be after reading the TPS

In parentheses, the value for most of the measured ones is indicated.

If your values are higher than the maximum allowable, then your car could not work normally, which means that you are going in the right direction. I changed it to a new TPS, at the new value, everything was at the minimum values. My old DPDZ had a resistance of (1 + 4) 8 kOhm already, although after cleaning everything returned to normal, I extended the life of my potentiometer by 1 year until it dies completely.

We proceed to removing the DPDZ, unscrew the 4 bolts for the thorax, pay attention to your thorax tool must have a hole inside itself, otherwise it will not work to unscrew it.

Or carefully unscrew the TPS in place, I’ll say it’s not very convenient right away, and the state of the sliders will be difficult to see.

We open the TPS, it sits on the DZ axis and has a seal in the form of a rubber ring, we carefully lift it along the edges and remove it, shaking it along the DZ axis! We look at what we have inside, there are sliders on the DZ axis. We examine their condition, should be in perfect condition.My topmost one had such a feeling as if it had been burnt, if suddenly we also take a skin from you (preferably a grain of 2000) and gently clean it so as not to bend the petals. It is not worth bending the sliders, this will lead to a faster development of the TPS resistive layer.
We look at the potentiometer itself, is the resistive layer rubbed? We pay attention to the contacts from the connector, is there anything suspicious there in the form of cracks or loose contacts?

If the resistive layer looks decent and not too worn out, then I advise you to simply wipe the resistive layer with alcohol and put everything back together, apparently it was not Babin!
You can wipe the resistive layer with spindle oil ONLY RIP, and not flood the C1 67 oscilloscope. Or there is even a special grease for potentiometers. But for some reason, many are against lubrication, well, this is your business to each his own, I think that the effect of contact bouncing is excluded with oil, as for sure everyone has heard the volume on the old technique, you twist and rustle and crackle, there is like the same potentiometer, I did not even disassemble them when I just dug in oil and forgot about them forever. So, such a bounce of the ECU contacts, oh, how you will not like it. digitization is very fast and imagine what the ECU thinks from such voltage surges !? That's right, no good, problems begin with XX in the first place.

If, nevertheless, the resistive layer is worn out strongly, and even more so the substrate is already visible (as in the photo above), then what actions need to be taken, then simply cleaning will not help here! As I understand it is usually rubbed, for some reason the very top track. There are 2 ways to heal.
1. As I did, but it is not entirely successful all the same, because you have to be very careful and you need to understand where to bend and bend. I had the top track wiped and I had to essentially move only one slider to the layer that had not yet worked, I neatly tucked a few petals of the slider up with a thin needle, others down, while making sure that the slider itself remains at the same distance as the others. protrusion to the resistive layer. Such a repair was enough for me for a year, although, as you can see in the photo, the wear on my TPS is very large and it was like this already at the first opening, maybe quite a bit less. After that, we do what was mentioned above with the coating of the resistive layer.

2. The method is much simpler and probably has not been tested more successfully, it was offered to me by Ten70.
The bottom line is to shift the entire potentiometer vertically up or down by 0.5mm, and this will achieve a 0.5mm shift of the sliders, which is quite enough considering that there is only one slider about 2mm. Where to move the potentiometer, you need to look at each potentiometer separately, where there is more of a non-working layer relative to the worn one in the opposite direction and move it. For example: the scuff from the sliders is visible and at the top the distance of the still untouched resistive layer is greater, which means that to get to this layer the potentiometer must be lowered! Now, because the potentiometer itself sits on the DZ axis, and just don't lower it, then you need to bore the bushing in the potentiometer by 1mm in diameter so that it can move up and down by 0.5mm relative to the axis. It is better to bore the sleeve with a reamer, well, if there is no reamer, you can use a drill, I will not write the data of drills and reamers, it is possible that the axes can be of different diameters. Berm caliper measure the diameter of the axis and add 1-1.1mm, and we get the desired size of the drill or reamer. We deploy (drill) the sleeve, you should get something like this:

this is what it looks like after boring with a reamer

After that, we do what was mentioned above with the coating of the resistive layer.

That's all about the method when I read it and started doing it, and if I took it off and didn't try it on, a few points are added here.

PS. There are many articles on the Internet on how to set up a TPS but most of them require a gas analyzer. Based on what I found on the Internet and what I had from devices and tools, I did it on my own. Fuel consumption on the highway was 6.5-7 liters, urban cycle 9-11 liters.After the new TPS was installed, the flow rate did not change or changed, but this is not noticeable, i.e. it turns out that when doing what I wrote, the TPS can be adjusted using this technique. I also want to note that all the sensors were new, including the lamba, or had a very low mileage of up to 20t.km.

Special thanks to Ten70 for helping me create this theme!

Video (click to play).

Replenishment in my fleet))) Opel astra 1.6 sedan on iz.

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