DIY auto repair honda srv

The Honda Z car is produced quite high quality and good. Auto breaks rarely, but still happens. It is especially offensive when a breakdown happened on the road, and there are no auto repair shops and repair services nearby. As practice shows, minor and medium-sized faults can be eliminated on their own if you know how. In fact, there is nothing difficult in car repair. Anyone can produce repair do it yourself. We will tell you about the structure of the car and the main malfunctions of the Honda Z. Armed with the knowledge, you can go on any long journey and cope with any difficulties.

The engine of a modern car seems so complicated to uninitiated people that they are afraid to open the hood. High-income car owners don't bother with this at all. It's easier for them to take a non-working car to a car service and give the money. It is not necessary to know the devices of the engine of the car. You can repair minor faults yourself. Often, you just need to poke it with a screwdriver or twist it a little with a wrench.

The undercarriage of a car is a moving part. These include shafts, hinges, struts, suspensions. The quality of the roads can negatively affect the chassis. The fasteners are loosened and the rubber protective covers are torn. You can repair the chassis yourself. There is nothing difficult in replacing protective covers and rubber seals.

Electrical equipment and wiring in a car is considered something supernatural. Car owners don't get into it. Anything can happen on the road. We will teach you how to repair minor faults. Sometimes it is enough to tighten the weakened contact and the machine works. Most contacts suffer from moisture and shaking. Replacing a burnt out light bulb in a car headlight is also very easy. You do not need to have technical knowledge or be an electrician to repair wiring and electrical equipment yourself.

Changing oil in car services is a luxury of rich and wealthy people. The more expensive the car, the more expensive its maintenance. It is not difficult to change the oil and pour the finished water into the tank. If you do everything right, you won't even get your hands dirty. Change consumable fluids for your car yourself.

Repair, device and service this car requires a lot of space and we cannot fit everything on one page. This would require an entire site. But you can download the practical manual for repair, maintenance and device in PDF format.

Download the manual tuning + repair. In which you will find many recommendations, DIY repair tips, photos. You will also learn about the device and find the electrical diagram of the Honda Z car.

Documentation (manual) for the repair, maintenance and operation of Honda CR-V 1995-2001 model years with right and left hand drive, 2.0L B20B or B20Z engine, automatic or manual transmissions; The manual is also suitable for Honda Odyssey which have similar units, components and mechanisms.

Are you planning to buy an auto registrar? Our online store sells good quality DVRs at an affordable price! In our store you can buy a video recorder with good recording quality.

A high desire for automation and as easy as possible to facilitate the work of a motorist has led to the emergence of mini-washes. A good mini-wash can be a good gift or a favorite of accessories in your car. The prospect and demand for high-pressure cleaners among potential ones does not subside. Practically all the world's leading companies are engaged in the production of household-class mini-washers. Their assortment arriving in specialized stores never ceases to amaze.

Question:
How widespread is the practice of concluding operating and leaseback lease transactions at the present time, based on your practice?
Answer:
To date, very few leaseback transactions have been carried out. There is also a certain risk for the leasing company, both financial and property.
With a positive credit history in a leasing company with an impeccable payment reputation, it is possible to provide clients with this type of leasing.

I am the owner of a 2003 Honda CRV-II car. And in a middle-aged car, various minor technical problems often arise. So, the central locking began to fail, namely: when you close it with the alarm key fob, the door lock buttons went down and immediately rose - the car remained open. After observing the behavior of the buttons, I came to the conclusion that the main lock (which is located in the driver's door), as it were, does not have enough power to click to the end, and it returns to the open position, signaling the rest of the locks to open as well. After a while, the situation worsened - the doors stopped opening, since the main lock had no longer had enough strength to lift the lock button. Moreover, if you lower and raise the main lock button manually, everything worked fine. It became obvious that there are at least three options for solving the problem:

• replacement of the assembly blocking the driver's door;
• repairing and cleaning it;
• “Prosthetics” with an additional electric actuator.

The first option was not suitable due to cost - the price of a new part was about 3,500-4500 rubles. The second also did not fit, because the valiant Japanese make such knots practically non-collapsible, and all maintenance is done at their own peril and risk. How long the part repaired in this way will last is also unclear. I was just afraid to be left without a lock on the door at all. So I started to implement the third option, the idea was this: to install next to the main lock an additional actuator for the car doors that turns on in parallel with it, which will push and pull the lock button.

For this repair I needed:

• flat screwdriver;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• wrench;
• knife;
• drill with a drill for metal;
• a door actuator with two wires and a set of fasteners (bought in "auto parts", costs about 150 rubles);
• door trim clips from the domestic car industry (bought in the same place, cost about 50 rubles for a large package, are necessary to put the trim back in place, since relatives are likely to break)
• two bolts with washers and nuts (also available in "auto parts", cost a penny).

We start disassembling the driver's door:

We lower the glass of the door to the end, and with a flat screwdriver we break off the plastic cover under the door opening handle (from the inside, of course):

Then, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws under it:

We pull the handle towards ourselves and see a metal rod, pushing the mount with the same screwdriver, remove the handle from the rod:

Unscrew the screw on the casing in the corner under the large handle:

We unscrew the same screw from the opposite side (it is not visible in the photo, but it is there):

Gently bending the latch of the control unit with a flat screwdriver around the perimeter of the latch, pull it up:

And remove the terminals (by pressing on the latches of the terminals with a screwdriver):

The door trim is now held only by clips. We remove the plastic triangle from the mirror, simply pulling it towards ourselves, pull the trim out of the slot where the glass is lowered. and we begin to pick out the door trim, helping with a screwdriver - sometimes a rather large effort may be required and the clips break. They say that there is a special puller, but unfortunately I did not have one in stock.Therefore, I stocked up on clips from Lada Kalina or Priora, which came up like family. Having completely removed the trim - do not forget to remove one more terminal going to the button for opening the trunk glass.

As a result, you should see the following view:

The dust protection is kept on sticky mastic, and it is easy to remove and put in place, it is much more difficult not to get dirty:

We need to fix our actuator on the door, as a rule, it comes with such a special bar, which we will bolt to the door with bolts. To do this, we need to drill one hole, since for the second attachment point, a ready-made hole from the clip holding the wiring harness of the door lock is suitable:

We pull the clip out of the hole and fasten the bar:

We disconnect the lock terminal, to which two wires fit, and empirically match them with the wires of the new actuator, achieving correct operation (when the signal for opening is given, the actuator jerks up, lengthening, to close - it shrinks. We strip the wires, twist and insulate. in place:

Bending the actuator rod, we achieve its maximum parallel position relative to the door lock rod, and fasten it with fasteners from the kit:

We check the operation of the system, make sure that everything works and assemble the door in the reverse order. That's all. I think this repair will be enough for a long time.

Video of the lock with an additional actuator:

Self-replacement of drive belts on a Honda CRV (Honda SRV).

This vehicle has three drive belts, and they wear out during operation. There are different signs of worn drive belts, let's look at some of them.

When a cold car engine is started, a squeak of a belt, as a rule, indicates wear or a weak tension of the alternator belt, squeaks when turning the steering wheel, or turning all the way in either direction, indicates wear or a weak tension of the power steering belt. A squeak when the air conditioner is turned on, respectively, indicates wear or insufficient tension on the air conditioner belt. Belts are replaced in the following order: power steering belt, air conditioner belt, alternator belt.

1. We loosen the two 14 mm bolts shown in the photo, move the power steering pump down, and remove the first belt.

2. Using a jack, raise the front, left side and remove the wheel.
3. Remove the plastic boot by unscrewing a few caps.

4. Also, using a 22 mm and 14 mm wrench, we remove the additional engine support.
5. Using a 14 mm wrench, loosen the air conditioner tensioner roller mounting bolt. Then, from above, under the power steering pump, unscrew the 14 mm lock nut, the roller tension rod. And with the help of the head, a 7 mm wrench, we loosen the tension rod of the air conditioner roller, remove the belt.

6. To remove the alternator belt, loosen the upper 12 mm nut and the lower 14 mm, the alternator mounts. We move the generator to the engine. and remove the belt.
Dimensions of belts for Honda SRV (Honda CRV) - 4PK820, 4PK841, ​​4PK890.

We install the belts in the reverse order, tighten the alternator belt so, using the assembly, we pull the alternator, and at the required belt tension, fix it by tightening the 12.14 mm nuts. We tighten the air conditioner belt using a roller, the power steering belt, you can also tighten it using a fitting.

It is important not to overtighten the belts, during the tension, you can see how to properly tension the drive belts in our video.

Bushing EAR and rear arm bushings Honda. "Garage number 6"