Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.
We unsolder contacts using a soldering iron.
Unscrew the central bolt and carefully extract everything.
Wipe the coil from metal droplets and debris.
Need to rub around the core ... For this we use double-sided tape. We glue it on a piece of narrow cardboard and try to collect the dirt inside. so that the core is strictly centered ... It is necessary to clearly center the coil during installation.
My speaker rustled due to the fact that the inner part of the coil touched the core. (the trail is clearly visible in the photo).
Centering with photo film ... The foil must be wrapped around the core so that it is no more and no less than it.
We clean the surfaces from glue and apply a new layer of glue ... First, lower it to the lower part, where the membrane is located, and once again check the centering using a battery. When the contacts close, the diaphragm should retract.
Leave the glue to dry and check that the membrane is pressed. We do not touch the membrane so as not to knock off the centering.
Further glue the upper part. Apply glue and press for a day. For this I used a saucer, ideally matched in diameter, a paint can and my wife's flower 🙂
After drying take out a photo film and check so that there is no rubbing when pressed.soldering everything back .
saved on acoustics 2600 RUR
Loudspeaker repair video
Are the speakers wheezing? Do not rush to throw them away, getting rid of the wheezing of the speakers is possible and not so difficult. Speaker wheezing, a fairly common phenomenon, is most often found in broadband acoustics, due to dust and all kinds of debris trapped between the core and the coil, which, when moving the speaker cone, causes an unpleasant sound in the form of a speaker wheezing. Speaker repair consists in disassembling the speaker and removing the source of the unpleasant sound.
A wheezing four-way coaxial speaker from Pioneer was repaired. The main tool for disassembling the speaker, a regular, flat screwdriver and a soldering iron.
First of all, I removed the buzzer module. In this model, the buzzer module was fastened with a long bolt, which was hidden under the magnet sticker. On other models, the tweeters can be simply glued, in which case they need to be ripped off, but before that, if possible, unsolder the wires going to the tweeters.
In the lower photo, if you look closely, you can see debris between the metal core and the sound winding.
After the tweeter module was unscrewed and the wires were soldered from it, armed with a screwdriver, he forged the plastic cover that presses the rubber suspension of the diffuser and carefully, slowly, was peeled off.
With the same tool, I peeled off the diffuser suspension. With a screwdriver, it is enough to pry it off a little, then you can peel it off with your hands.
I unsoldered the wires to start peeling off the centering washer.
Peeling off the centering washer is a little more difficult than previously peeled off parts, you can't rush here, it is easy to damage the washer.
There was a lot of debris inside the speaker, no wonder it was constantly wheezing.
On the voice coil of the speaker, scratches are visible, proving the presence of foreign objects, the insulation of the winding is damaged. The protective layer of the winding, it is advisable to restore, for this you can open it with varnish or epoxy resin over the scratches, with a small layer.
We clean, wash, vacuum all parts of the speaker.
Well, now the most difficult thing that had to be faced with the repair of speakers is the removal of metal particles magnetized to the core. A vacuum cleaner cannot cope with them. Scotch came to the rescue, with the help of just such not cunning actions, everything that was superfluous in the dynamics was removed.
Then it was necessary to glue everything into place. I glued the speaker with ordinary, universal glue. Moment.
I did not remove the old traces of glue, since it is easy to navigate along them when gluing the speaker, which allows you to glue it correctly and without distortions. But all the same, you need to check if the winding clings to the core when the diffuser moves.
If everything went well, there is no extraneous noise when the diffuser moves, we add it, solder it, assemble the speaker.
Refurbished speaker, pictured on the right. The speaker repair was successful, everything works and does not wheeze.
There is absolutely nothing in disassembling the speaker, there is nothing complicated, everything is simple and easy, the main thing is not to rush. It took me about an hour to repair one speaker.
Previously, we have already addressed the topic of repairing car dynamic heads, or simply say, do-it-yourself speaker repair. Then we considered the method of restoring the head suspension using ordinary silicone. But we also face problems of a more serious nature. That is why, today we decided to focus on such a common problem as misalignment.
Naturally, today everyone knows what a dynamic head consists of. So, in it, an electrical type signal is converted into membrane movement and propagates through the air.
At the time when the same signal is concentrated on the coil, a magnetic field is formed, which interacts with the magnet. And due to the fact that this signal is temporary, the coil begins to vibrate, as if running away from the field. However, the coil has nowhere to run and it starts transmitting this signal to the diffuser, which in turn transmits it into the air, creating sound. Naturally, this process is conveyed in simple words, and it will sound completely different in technical terms. But the very essence is important.
A core made of iron is used here to implement the directionality of the field. In turn, this core is attached to a permanent magnet. It is a disc-type circular iron platform with a hub in the center that consists of a voice coil. In order for this coil to move easily in the middle of the magnet and the core, there is a special gap. And due to some unfavorable factors, the glue, due to which the disc is connected to the magnet, is weakened and the core crushes the coil, which leads to the immobility of the diffuser. The speakers may work, but you will not be able to hear any bass.
How to get out of this difficult situation? And is it possible to make the speakers return to their normal state? This is what will be discussed later in the article. So, in the situation that I encountered, there was a breakdown of the speaker suspension, and because of this, I immediately started with the centering washer. It so happens that in the speakers, the same centering washer is attached to a very weak glue.
Therefore, in order to separate the washer, you just need to moisten the junction of the chassis with it with simple acetone and wait a couple of seconds. And in some cases, acetone alone is not enough. Most often this applies to high-quality speakers, where strong and high-quality glue is used to attach the washer and the chassis. Here you need to resort to the most real vandalism. Namely, you need to cut off the washer and wires going from the voice coil towards the speakers with a clerical knife.
At the end of these manipulations, it becomes clear that the core sticks to the magnet and needs to be put in its place, namely in the center. However, it should be noted that this is not easy at all, because here you need to work with iron and a permanent magnet.
They interact extremely reliably with each other, and it will be difficult for you to place the core in the center. It is important to understand, however, that the voice coil is fully attached to the cone and crushed. Therefore, you need to tighten the diffuser itself. After releasing the coil, you need to take a good look at it.
If the varnish covering its wire is damaged or the coil itself is dented, additional coil reconstruction is also required.
To repair the coil, the first step is to look for metal sheets, the thickness of which is half a centimeter.
These sheets need to be fastened between the core and the magnet. In general, we need to fill all the space that the coil occupies.
After all this, you need to glue the magnet to the washer that holds the core itself. It is best to use a good moment type glue for this.
Also, for these purposes, you can take epoxy, but here it is already necessary to mix it with sawdust or pieces of fabric for greater reliability.
Then, after the glue has hardened, you can remove all the plates and put the entire speaker back together.
The hanger and centering washer sit on the same adhesive. At the same time, the suspension can also be additionally repaired.
In this way, you can repair heads of various types.
And I also want to note one point, if you have decided to sell your car and do not know where to start, just call Center-Auto, which will buy your car. Even if it is after an accident, contact and receive the money on the same day.
The current state of the market with loudspeaker prices makes speaker repair virtually unnecessary, but if there are difficulties in purchasing a new speaker instead of a damaged or damaged one, then it makes sense to try to restore the damaged loudspeaker with your own hands. I came across several coaxial speaker systems from various cars. Unfortunately, 2/3 of the speakers produce a distorted signal during playback, and the rest simply do not work. Below will be presented material only on the restoration of "littered" coaxial-type car speakers for use in the future in the design or installation in multi-way stationary speaker systems. Before starting work, we will carry out diagnostics speaker states.
1. Check for "trash". Coaxial speakers are not fully protected from foreign objects falling into the magnetic gap, this is especially dangerous for old cars covered with rust or cars that have undergone body repairs. Checking is simple - gently with your fingers moving diffuser inside the magnetic system, if at the same time extraneous sounds are clearly audible: rustles, crackles, rattling, then this means that metal debris may have got into the magnetic gap.
2. We take a tester and in ohmmeter mode we check the resistance of the coil. If there is resistance, then this is our case. If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to check for an open circuit thick flexible copper conductors from the speaker terminals to the diffuser. If there is no break, then most likely there is a break in the speaker coil and this case of self-repair is not considered in this article. Instructions for self-repair are given below.
1. We unsolder the flexible leads of the coil from the contact lugs of the speaker connection and the contact lugs of the coaxial speaker.
2. Remove the coaxial speakers. Repairs of the speaker system are not provided by the manufacturer and coaxial speakers are installed tightly ... The column with reinforced tweeters was removed by drilling an aluminum rivet. We work carefully, the main thing is not to tear or damage anything.
3. On the forums for repairing speakers, there are ways to dismantle the diffuser and centering washer. I also went along this path. We carry out work in the open air in the absence of open fire sources! After spending 100 ml of acetone, it was not possible to peel off the diffuser and the washer. The solvent evaporated quickly without softening the glue line.In order to save time and solvent, a cord made of cotton cloth was placed in place of gluing and moistened with acetone; if necessary, moistening as it evaporated continued until the glue softened. After softening with a thin screwdriver, he forged the edge of the centering washer and lifted it over the gluing point. With the corrugation of the diffuser made of thin rubber, you need to be more careful and delicate so as not to damage the rubber.
Pouring solvent onto the corrugation
4. Remove the diffuser. From trapped debris inside the magnetic system, damage-tearing of the speaker coil insulation is noticeable. It is useful under a magnifying glass to see the degree of damage for the presence of short-circuited turns (scratches to a depth of more than 40% of the coil wire diameter), if there is a suspicion of short-circuited turns, then it is better to reject the speaker. Using a damp cloth, I cleaned the diffuser, centering washer and coil inside and outside from dirt. Cleaning should be done carefully so as not to damage the coil.
There are scratches on the coil
5. The gap in the magnetic system is a sad sight. Strong magnet holds fine metal debris and dust firmly. I tried to clean it mechanically, but the small size of the gap and its curvature did not allow successfully removing debris. Decided to use a strong blast of air from an air compressor - it was not possible to clear the gap! Another remedy had to be used - a high-pressure jet of water from a car wash. The result is that I am all wet, but the gap is 100% cleaned, and at the same time the whole frame of the frame shone like new. I tried to do it carefully, since the pressure of the water jet is very high and I suppose with special zeal it is possible to destroy the gluing of the speaker magnet. To prevent rusting, you must immediately dry the frame and magnet. After drying, it is useful to check the cleanliness of the gap under a magnifying glass. And as experience has shown, it is good to seal the gap with tape to protect it from accidental metal debris.
