Depending on the degree of damage, the restoration of parts on powerful SUVs can be done either by hand or in a workshop. Since in most cases damage occurs from impacts against large stones, the thresholds need to be repaired exclusively by welding. To do this, the part is dismantled from the machine, and the standard holes for fasteners are closed with metal bushings. After that, you need to make new holes and proceed directly to repairing the damaged part.
Welding the upper part of the old threshold with a new metal lining is considered the most effective. First, the part is leveled and cleaned from the remnants of the old lining. The top of the sill needs to be perfectly clean, so be prepared for a lot of time. After that, a new panel is welded to the standard pad. The finished part must be cleaned of dust and painted.
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Next, the finished threshold is installed using new fasteners. In addition to bolting, many motorists also use welding to mount parts. This method of fastening is often not justified, because in the event of a need for repeated repairs, it will be much more difficult to dismantle the thresholds with your own hands.
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Car door sill repair is a very common problem faced by motorists. The fact is that it is the thresholds on the car that are the most vulnerable part both in terms of corrosion and mechanical damage.
In addition, often motorists strive to give their vehicle a different look through repair work, thanks to which all kinds of door sill covers, which are distinguished by an interesting design or the possibility of illumination, have become very popular.
Carrying out the repair of car thresholds on your own, you should clearly be aware that this procedure is very difficult and belongs to rather complex types of body repair.
As a rule, the installation of thresholds on a car is carried out due to their damage due to a traffic accident or, most often, due to commonplace corrosion. It should be noted that it is rust that is the main enemy of the thresholds, and the car owner should take care of their safety even when buying a new car.
In recent years, a special film on the thresholds of cars has gained popularity, which gives them an elegant look and at the same time protects against damage to the factory paintwork. In addition, it is advisable to process thresholds on a car with specialized anti-corrosion compounds, which are presented in a wide range in the retail sector.
However, if the vehicle is used, most of these measures may be ineffective. Thinking about how to change the thresholds on a car with your own hands, you need to clearly study the scheme for replacing them.
The primary task in this case is to remove the old thresholds on the car, for which it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory operations. First of all, the dismantling of the interior trim in the area of the thresholds, the removal of the linings and fenders is carried out. After completing this procedure, access to the welds is opened, with which the sills are attached to the car. After that, the old threshold is cut out of the body with a chisel and dismantled.
As a rule, the repair of car sills is completed by the installation of a new body element using welding. Before installing a new threshold, the inner surface is sanded, treated with a rust converter and an anti-corrosion compound. New car sills are welded at the same attachment points, and the weld seam is carefully cleaned and painted along with the sill itself.
In recent years, with the development of bodywork, the repair of auto sills without welding has become widespread. This technique is especially relevant for vehicles with aluminum body panels. The fact is that aluminum can be welded only in an inert gas environment, which makes this procedure available exclusively to the automakers themselves.
Thresholds in this case are attached using rivets or special adhesives. By the way, for the same reason, automakers often install plastic thresholds on cars that are not at all afraid of corrosion and suffer mainly from mechanical contacts with obstacles.
By the way, the fight against rust is a key point in the repair of auto sills. Some motorists resort to filling the inside of the thresholds with polyurethane foam sold in building materials stores. This method has a number of advantages and disadvantages.
So, polyurethane foam really protects well against rust, but filling the cavities leads to a violation of ventilation and prevents moisture from drying out. For this reason, it is better to do with traditional anti-corrosion compounds.
In this case, it is desirable to use substances based on bitumen, popularly called "anti-gravel". They create a reliable protective coating and are also well suited for external processing. The rubber-like compound protects the vehicle sills from stones and light mechanical damage.
Thus, it is not so difficult to repair car thresholds on your own, it would be a desire and basic technical skills.
Even not very old cars are littered with relatively minor corrosion damage, and if urgent measures are not taken, then after a year or two such a car finally rusts and falls apart. Especially dangerous here is the corrosion of internal cavities - "boxes", thresholds, spars, struts. In this case the usual recipe "remove old rust" is not suitable, inside racks or "boxes" such an operation cannot be performed. Therefore, the way seen in one small, service station, we were amazed. The elements of old cars are preserved there by filling the internal space with construction foam (of the "penoflex" type) from spray cans.O6 Possessing the ability to expand, it completely fills the internal volumes, preventing the access of moisture and oxygen. We saw it disassembled for repair after an accident a car previously treated in this way. The foam adhered firmly to the metal and did not peel off anywhere. Despite the fact that the car operated year-round, there were no traces of fresh corrosion.
And I saw mine disassembled after the fire in 2103, on which the "cracker" on the rear fender (originally rusty) was reinforced with foam. Also no traces of fresh corrosion in 3 years.
Shl. Treatment with "active" anticorrosive treatment (Rustsopt et al), definitely better.
Personally, I support the following, the cavities must be ventilated, otherwise they will rot even faster.
Pedestrian
Group: Zhigulyonok Posts: 8 Registration: 13.10.2008 User #: 5085 Car: VAZ 21063 Color: blue-green Release Year: 1996 Thank you said: 0 times
Inveterate Zhigulist
Group: Zhigulists Posts: 2283 Registration: 20.6.2008 From: MoSkoW User #: 3794 Machine: 21103 Color: Papyrus Release Year: 2001 Thank you said: 2 times
... nagger.
Group: V.I.P. Name: A. Nikolaevich Messages: 26066 Registration: 26.12.2007 From: Moscow region. User #: 1911 Machine: 21065 was Color: dry Year of Issue: 330 thousand Thank you said: 1034 times
Zhigulistik
Group: Zhigulists Posts: 31 Registration: 19.8.2008 User #: 4401 Car: VAZ 21060 Color: Gray-blue metallic Release Year: 2000 Thank you said: 0 times
You mean for the winter? And after the winter, what is the repair of chtoli? If you are planning a body repair soon, I don’t know, you can also use polyurethane foam. And if the repair of the bottom does not threaten, and the holes need to be repaired, then you need to take a piece of sackcloth and bitumen mastic. First, remove all rot with a metal brush, then cover the area around the hole with mastic and place a soaked piece of sackcloth. The mastic does not dry very long. But there is one problem, the mastic does not completely harden, so all this needs to be covered with something so as not to stain the interior. My friend and I did this when we found through holes in the bottom of his VAZ 2107.
P.S (If I wrote something wrong, please do not scold me, well, I don’t have the experience to close up a hole in the metal.).
Post has been edited KWER25 – 13.10.2008, 22:10
Pedestrian
Group: Zhigulyonok Posts: 8 Registration: 13.10.2008 User #: 5085 Car: VAZ 21063 Color: blue-green Release Year: 1996 Thank you said: 0 times
I have bad holes in the place where they lift it up.
and the rapids are rotten in these places. The fact is that I am not selenium in a can, and I don’t want to bother with bitumen .. if you just shoot with polyurethane foam and that's all, and by summer send it to the tinsmiths.
/ I would like to find out someone was covering it up with foam. /
Inveterate Zhigulist
Group: Zhigulists Posts: 2283 Registration: 20.6.2008 From: MoSkoW User #: 3794 Machine: 21103 Color: Papyrus Release Year: 2001 Thank you said: 2 times
I have bad holes in the place where they lift it up.
and the rapids are rotten in these places. The fact is that I am not selenium in a can, and I don’t want to bother with bitumen .. if you just shoot with polyurethane foam and that's all, and by summer send it to the tinsmiths.
/ I would like to find out someone was covering it up with foam. /
... nagger.
Group: V.I.P. Name: A. Nikolaevich Messages: 26066 Registration: 26.12.2007 From: Moscow region. User #: 1911 Machine: 21065 was Color: dry Year of Issue: 330 thousand Thank you said: 1034 times
I have bad holes in the place where they lift it up.
and the rapids are rotten in these places. The fact is that I am not selenium in a can, and I don’t want to bother with bitumen .. if you just shoot with polyurethane foam and that's all, and by summer send it to the tinsmiths.
/ I would like to find out someone was covering it up with foam. /
Pedestrian
Group: Zhigulyonok Posts: 8 Registration: 13.10.2008 User #: 5085 Car: VAZ 21063 Color: blue-green Release Year: 1996 Thank you said: 0 times
winter is coming soon, snow may seep, floors are damp, smell, etc.
and blow it with foam, and cover it with a rug - he clung to it.
Zhigulistik
Group: Zhigulists Posts: 45 Registration: 27.10.2007 From: Lobnya User #: 1483 Car: VAZ 21061 Color: valentine Release Year: 1995 Thank you said: 0 times
Zhigulenysh
Group: Zhigulists Posts: 57 Registration: 27.1.2008 From: Mogilev RB User #: 2175 Car: VAZ 21063 Color: red Release Year: 1989 Thank you said: 0 times
Inveterate Zhigulist
Group: Zhigulists Posts: 546 Registration: 3.6.2008 From: Tambov User #: 3612 Car: Vaz-21063 Color: Beige 236 Release Year: 1987 Thank you said: 0 times
At first I wanted to write “f the firebox with foam”, and then I thought about it. There is only one serious minus with this temporary remedy - the frozen foam draws water and just moisture well into itself, so that there will be more rot if it is just foam. BUT: if after it hardens (well, cutting off any excess there.) We treat it AS SHOULD be treated with bitumen mastic, then there will be enough for the winter and rye will not be added, neither will blow nor leak. So the sequence is: 1) we clean the metal properly, then 2) mastic, then 3) foam, and finally 4) mastic again. Lazy people can skip point 2. ... In fact, foam is a Pokémon way after all. PS: By the way, specials are on sale. solvent, no problem about cleaning it. Zyzy: My car had strange technological holes in the bottom in the form of triangular cutouts - petals, in the area of all rugs. Cold welded them to hell.
Post has been edited Oladiy – 16.10.2008, 13:32
Sometimes there is no need to repair the entire threshold, you only need to close the through rust in a separate place or close the gap formed at the bottom. This must be done in a timely manner, otherwise dirt will fly inside or in winter the reagent from the road. Necessarily, it should be said separately that it is impossible to use foam (assembly and any other) for sealing thresholds. Whoever advises such, probably does not repair the thresholds himself later, or does not yet know (and then does not tell) what happens to them in a year or two. They can be torn off in small pieces with your hands. The metal will resist and turn into “paper”. Thresholds should always be ventilated and let out condensation and dampness.
Partial repair of the Moskvich 2141 threshold. Immediately prepare a repair piece Box + amplifier. It is always best to use thick metal for the amplifier at the front of the sill. 1.5 mm thick. Better than 2.0, but it is very hard to cook and adjust.
Here you can add an entry about the case when the threshold is intact, and the jack (more precisely, the threshold amplifier) is already weak and you cannot put the jack. You don't have to touch the threshold at all, but “insert” a new amplifier. It will also be a rather thick plate that will not bend (at least 1.5 mm, better than 2.0). A typical commercial amplifier is very thin What needs to be done - drill out the welding points along the top and bottom at the threshold, where we will strengthen. It is convenient to drill with two drills (two drills). Thin 2.5-3mm and thick 6.5mm. It's faster this way, but you can see all the points. - insert the plate into the place of the amplifier, weld everything back and cut off the excess edges of the plate video link here
We will also post a photo of the case when (it turns out) also the floor. In any case, if you are getting ready for the repair, then be sure to disassemble the flooring, you must also look at the floor. Very often), in 90% of cases it is necessary to cook the junction of the floor and the threshold (more precisely, not the threshold itself, but the box). It means that you can still disassemble it later and it may be more convenient to buy a repair floor right away. It is cheap for nine, you can somehow fit it to Moskvich and to another car. In the photo, the native repair floor of Moskvich. everything was cooked by gas welding (where there was no campi in the garage yet)
There is also now a link to a complete renovation of thresholds and floors. This is 5 videos for 50 minutes. Even if you do not repair the entire thresholds, you can see something about the repair, how to cut, how to drill, how to adjust, and more. These videos are at the link
Sooner or later, many motorists have to resort to repairing car thresholds, especially those who have not new cars on the maintenance.
The quality of Russian roads is still not ideal, and when it will be so, the question is rhetorical.
A huge number of pits can render the car unusable, and after a few years seriously shake the nerves of the owner.
At the same time, the thresholds of the car, the bottom of the doors and the arches suffer most from such extreme driving.
Naturally, even the first signs of corrosion cannot be triggered and action must be taken immediately. If there is no desire to do the repair of thresholds with your own hands, then it is better to contact a specialist.
Today, there are two main types of thresholds - welded to the base or removable.
Removable sills are attached to the side and outside of the side members. Their main purpose is to protect the lower part of the car from small stones flying out from under the wheels.
Welded thresholds are more common. In fact, they merge with the underbody, giving it an extra level of rigidity.
Most often, removable thresholds are made of metal (less often of plastic). Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws.
It is very easy to repair them. It is necessary to carefully remove the product by unscrewing the screws and restore the threshold with a small hammer (if we are talking about a metal product).
After that, the threshold must be covered with a special anti-corrosion compound to prevent the appearance of rust.
There are situations when the repair of removable thresholds is useless (for example, when the material has already completely rotted).
It is better to completely replace the old threshold with a new one. This will ultimately come out much cheaper.
Such a threshold is part of the structure, therefore, the repair must be carried out according to a different scenario.
If the damage is minor, straightening is done from the outside. If there are small dents, it is necessary to drill a small hole in the threshold and straighten the problem area using special tools.
Tool for pulling out dents.
Another option is to carefully cover the damaged area with small steel patches. Any competent tinsmith can easily cope with such work.
Dents in thresholds can be repaired with a steel bar that is welded to the damaged part and then pulled out using hand force or a special winch. Once the work is complete, the rod can be cut off.
In case of moderate damage, the seats and doors will have to be removed. Otherwise, the latter will interfere with the performance of high-quality repairs.
Areas with the largest damage should be replaced. These include:
Through holes;
Deep dents;
Torn off parts and so on.
This area can be cut out with a grinder and welded on a metal structure of appropriate dimensions.
Today, there are two main methods of straightening car thresholds.
In the first method, a rectangular window is cut into which the anvil is inserted.
This method allows the affected area to be tightened using hydraulic or mechanical devices.
Once the problem spot is fixed, the cut window can be welded neatly. Tin solder can be used to straighten the seam.
In the second method, the so-called transverse cuts are used, which are made in the surface of the threshold.
The weld points are disconnected, an anvil is inserted (preferably small) and the damaged area is straightened.
Welding is carried out only after straightening the surface. If the area directly under the door is damaged, then it must be cut out and replaced with a similar one.
If the rack is also damaged with the threshold, then it is necessary to simultaneously replace the threshold and the rack. It is necessary to act according to a simple scheme.
First, the B-pillar spar must be cut. Before you start straightening the spar, you need to make sure that the car body is strong.
After that, the installation site should be cleaned, and all excess metal parts removed.
Further, the surface of the side member must be leveled and adjusted.After that, fastening, installation and welding are performed. That's all. It remains to put the doors in place and adjust the gaps.
There are two main processing methods.
The first method involves the use of auto chemistry (mastic, special varnish or impregnation).
This method is most effective when working in a garage. But there are also negative aspects - the purchase of expensive materials is required to carry out the work.
In some cases, you can use cheap products, but they are not suitable for all foreign cars.
The second way is electrochemical protection. This treatment must be carried out exclusively by an automotive workshop where you can expect to receive a warranty.
The peculiarity of this protection lies in the fact that special electrodes are mounted on the threshold, to which a direct current is supplied.
These products pull corrosion on themselves, and not on thresholds. The term of such protection is about one year. As for the cold season, the electrodes will last a much shorter period - about three months.
In some services, ordinary plastic door sills are installed, which have a more affordable price and are easy to change.
These pads reliably protect thresholds from dirt and stones, but do not protect against corrosion, which "gets" under them.
Therefore, if you really put such a pad, then only after anti-corrosion treatment.
Video (click to play).
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