Do-it-yourself car repair vaz 2131 niva

VAZ-2121 "Niva" is a four-seater off-road passenger car. Produced by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant.

The VAZ-2121 "Niva" car is a design development of JSC "AVTOVAZ". Produced since 1977. This is a vehicle for off-road driving, traveling to hard-to-reach places, hunting and fishing trips. The folding rear seat allows you to place and carry a variety of goods. The tailgate floor-level connector provides convenient loading and unloading.

"Niva" is a cross-country vehicle with a permanent non-disconnectable drive of all wheels with a center differential lock and a transfer case with a lowering row. The car had a very progressive design, combining excellent off-road qualities with the comfort of a passenger car, and had practically no analogues at that time. It has been successfully exported to many countries. The car became one of the first representatives of the now so popular "parquet" SUVs.

Body - all-metal, load-bearing, three-door, equipped with seat belts. Front seats - with head restraints, adjustable in length and backrest tilt, recline forward. The rear seat folds down to increase the luggage compartment. On request, the car is equipped with an electrically heated rear window, a cleaner and a rear window washer.

Another feature of this unique machine was the use of passenger car assemblies. So, its engine was created on the basis of 2106, the gearbox and rear axle are also borrowed from this car. Despite this, the "Niva" has a cross-country ability, unique for such a machine.

The car was equipped with a 4-speed gearbox with synchronizers in forward gears, or a 5-speed gearbox. The transfer case is a two-stage one with a center differential with forced locking. The cardan drive consists of an intermediate cardan shaft and cardan shafts for driving the front and rear axles.

The front suspension is independent, on transverse swinging arms, with coil springs, hydraulic shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar. The rear suspension is dependent, with coil springs, hydraulic shock absorbers, four longitudinal and one transverse rods.

Since the start of production, modifications have been produced with an in-line four-cylinder carbureted gasoline engine with a volume of 1.6 liters. The modification 21211, which appeared later with a 1.3 liter engine, was not successful.

As a result of the modernization of 1993, a new model "Taiga" was born, which was assigned the index "VAZ-21213". This is a four-seater off-road passenger car with permanent non-disconnectable all-wheel drive. It's hard to believe that there are 16 years between these modifications. During these years, the plant made almost no changes to the design of the 2121. And the changes made in the 21213 model are more cosmetic than technical.

Externally, the new car is distinguished by a modified rear part of the body. 21213 has a "long" third door to the bumper and new taillights. It has become much easier to load anything into the luggage compartment. The lock disappeared from the back door, which was constantly clogged with dirt. It can only be opened from the salon. True, the location of the handle that opens the trunk under the elbow of the rear left passenger is difficult to call successful: you have to act “by touch”.The bumpers are now painted light gray, which is more practical than the old unpainted aluminum.

The cabin has a new panel, new seats, new facings. The instrument panel is the same as that of the VAZ-21083 model. Only now the glare from it illuminates the windshield at night. The new seats are also made in the image and likeness of the "eight". They are more comfortable and more modern than the previous ones. But the mechanism, which folds the backrest for the passage of the rear passenger and moves the seat forward, is not reliable - after fifty operations it fails, due to distortions that have appeared, the back does not want to get into place. The rear plastic panels creak and squeak from light pressure. But now there is a pocket in the sidewall next to the left rear passenger.

The engine has been updated too. The working volume is increased to 1700 cm. A contactless ignition system and a Solex carburetor are used. An invisible but very significant improvement is the new shape of the combustion chamber. Modification of the engine along with changes in the transmission allowed to significantly reduce fuel consumption.

The transmission of the new car has a five-speed gearbox and main gears with a gear ratio of 3.9. Reinforced crosspieces are used. Their size changed and grease fittings appeared. In the transfer case drive - CV joint. Its purpose is to reduce vibration and transmission noise.

The brake system uses a vacuum booster and a master cylinder from the "eight". The effort on the pedals has decreased, but the wheel now lies “upside down” and nothing can be put into it. In addition, the procedure for adjusting the steering gear has become incredibly complicated - now you can only crawl up to it with a crooked screwdriver. The exhaust system contains new mufflers. Their bodies are not welded, but rolled, like those of the machines of the “eighth” family.

For the external market, a modification of the VAZ-21214 with central fuel injection was produced. In the "standard" version - VAZ-21214-00. This car is a design development of JSC "AVTOVAZ" with a permanent non-disconnectable drive of all wheels with a center differential lock and a transfer case with a lowering row.

The model range of JSC AVTOVAZ also included the temporarily produced transitional modification 21219 - a combination of the old body 2121 and the engine with transmission 21213. On request, the cars can be equipped with a 1.9-liter Peugeot diesel engine (VAZ-21215).

Well, we broke the car.

In general, the first breakdown is that the driver's glass warps when lifting. There are no other problems. The car runs for hunting and for work. Carries documents for clients, an accountant to the bank, sometimes me with a dog on a hunt. Oddly enough, it eats less than 10 liters per hundred and does not bother with anything, except for the driver's seat - there is more and more desire to change it, everything until the hands reach it.

A year has passed since the purchase, the mileage turned out to be small and problem-free for the cornfield. The non-burning backlighting of the panel was defeated on our own. The problem turned out to be in the brightness control rheostat. After replacing it, everything was in order. I put on summer tires and the car immediately became more cheerful, more economical and cleaner. No matter how they scold the standard tires of the fields, but it is equally good both on the track and in the mud, and I don't see any sense in changing it to something more fashionable. I went to a sanatorium in Anapa, where I met the anniversary of the car. On the track, I clocked it up to 138 km per hour on the navigator, by the way, unlike the Prado, the Niva speedometer almost doesn't lie, the discrepancy with the GPS data is minimal.

Well, here's another day off and got to the wicket under the spare wheel 🙂 it was also sandwiched, primed and painted, there are no difficulties with this, but a problem appeared where it was not expected - that is, everything is as it should be 🙂

In general, even when I was taking it off for body repair, I noticed that the bearings of the axle of the moving part were broken into the trash, I took it off and went to look, and then the fun began - I stop by one store for our brands, give them a bearing and say - we need two new ones - Well for some reason I was sure that the manufacturer would put on the arc FOR NIVA and the bearing From the Niva, but it was not there, they rummaged in the bins, rummaged in catalogs All our brands and they say - but there is no such

I'm a little shocked to ask - how so.

So, driving with the interior disassembled in one seat is not fun, especially when you consider the burned-out muffler.Therefore, I came to grips with the second seat. But, I decided, since I had disassembled the interior, it was necessary to glue everything with noise and vibration isolation. I made the second mount for the passenger seat in the same way as the first, measured everything, screwed it on, then removed it to glue the interior. On the lid covering the gas tank there was no layer between it and the body iron - it was made from spleen.

The floor was glued with vibration, and on top it was also soundproofed

So, the last time I wrote about replacing the fuel pump. But I did not stop there, since the floor of the cabin had already been disassembled - I decided to disassemble it further. The following was discovered: The bottom is not rotten - this is already good. However, this is where the positive findings end.

Now negative findings:

- Antifreeze leak from the stove and radiator tap was found

- Found a poor state of sound insulation - impregnated with antifreeze

- cracks were found in the seat mountings - the cracks lead to the street, on the driver's seat one mount is generally torn off - that's where it dangled

- I was once again surprised at how the radio tape recorder was connected to the collective farm - both speakers hung on the same channel, with 3 channels remaining free.

I poured a full tank at the gas station - there was a smell of gasoline in the cabin. I don't like this kind of thing. I began to look for the reason. Dismantled half of the cabin and got to the tank. A gasoline leak has been detected around the fuel pump. Apparently, the gasket between the tank and the fuel pump module was missing. I decided to take it apart, especially since the fuel gauge was showing nonsense. I took out the module, replaced the fuel sensor, purchased a gas-resistant sealant and a new gasket, assembled it. The car will not start. Moreover, the pump is noisy. Began to deal with the pump.

So I will lay out a new list of faults, excluding what has already been fixed and add the new ones found:

1) All heater control cables are torn off

2) The front seats are poorly fixed, and they themselves are somehow tortured.

3) The driver's window does not work

4) The cigarette lighter does not work

5) The speedometer does not work, the cable is broken

6) The fuel alarm lamp signals even with a full tank

7) Outboard bearing is broken

8) Brake pads need urgent replacement

9) Backlash in the front right wheel

11) The speed sensor does not work

12) The sensor does not work flat road

13) The oxygen sensor does not work, which after the catalyst

14) The stove tap does not work

15) snotty transfer case oil seal

16) problems with hydraulic lifters or camshaft, poor-quality valve opening.

I practically didn’t drive the car, as the problem with charging surfaced again, and the battery was discharged after a short trip - a consequence after you turned off the car you couldn’t start. In general, I began to figure out what and what and discovered such a vicious circle: the radiator, apparently, is clogged, apparently crap was poured into it so that it does not run - which reduced the efficiency of its cooling, and, by the way, it is wet in the lower right corner. Due to the low cooling efficiency, the fans work longer - a high energy consumption, which in turn ruins the generator, battery, fuses, wiring, and relays. Well, he decided the issue radically, replaced the generator, radiator, thermostat, pipes, removed the non-working engine heating, replaced the temperature sensor and drain plug, replaced the antifreeze.

The Niva VAZ 2121 became the first comfortable Soviet SUV. Until its exit from the factory gates in 1977, all-terrain vehicles were used mainly for military needs. For a Soviet citizen, an off-road vehicle, in principle, was not available, and they were not on the open sale. There was an opportunity to buy decommissioned UAZs, but they did not differ in comfort. The only alternative to them was Volynets with an engine from ZAZ 969, which was available for sale, but it also did not meet all the requirements for comfort, although its off-road properties were highly valued.

Niva turned the concept of an SUV for the semi-wild inhabitants of the country of Soviets - no one has ever seen such comfort as in the six, with the passability of an UAZ, but at first the consumer was stopped by a rather high price, and later they got used to it. Niva has become an active rural worker and city dweller - in terms of performance, it is in no way inferior to the VAZ classics.

Niva 2121, which every motorist can do in his garage with his own hands, is still one of the most popular middle class SUVs. Like every car, the Niva has its own characteristic malfunctions and diseases. Being a very durable and reliable vehicle, it is very easy to maintain. Typical car malfunctions are mainly associated with the peculiarity of its design:

• four-wheel drive and a transfer case with a demultiplier sometimes bring some trouble;
• body design features;
• front wheel drive;
• engines from the VAZ 2106 are not designed for use on off-road vehicles;
• front suspension characteristic only for Niva.

We will briefly describe some of them, but we will dwell on the body in more detail. Questions to him rarely appear, but this does not negate their relevance.

The main problem with the Niva engine was that it was not originally designed for use in harsh conditions. This explains many of its characteristic breakdowns.

For cars with a 1.7 liter engine, valve lifters have become the biggest problem. More precisely, their adjustment. When installing them, it is necessary to observe a precisely calibrated effort, otherwise they will either wedge or twist out if they are not clamped tightly enough. The malfunction makes itself felt with a characteristic knock, and if you do not respond in time, it can kill the camshaft. Therefore, it is better not to take on this business on your own if you do not have enough skills.

Transfer cases, as a rule, never cause problems. You just need to monitor the oil level. Propeller shafts can be a nuisance. Especially if they are not lubricated every 10,000 km. The crosses are not durable enough, but with regular lubrication, they will not be problematic.

Oil seals are another matter. The axles and the transfer case are equipped with oil seals of not the best quality, therefore they often leak. If you do not pay attention to this when changing the oil, then you can easily screw up the dispenser. It is better to buy branded oil seals, according to the factory size. Then there is a guarantee that the oil will not leak until the next MOT. After 2011, the VAZ 2121 has Italian oil seals from the factory installed, in this case there is no cause for concern.

We will present several options for bodywork that you can do with your own hands in the garage with a pit.

Before you start fighting corrosion, you need to figure out how rational it is. If it is easier to change a rotten threshold, then it is better to do this than to mold patches to rust. Nevertheless, there are some ways to give the Niva body a proper look.

Tinning can be used to localize small foci of rust. How to do this, we clearly showed in the figure.

Epoxy resins can also provide temporary protection against corrosion and partial repair of rusted areas. First, you need to thoroughly clean the damaged area, and then apply a polymer patch using fiberglass. After final drying, the patch should be sanded, putty, primed and touched up.

In Nivs, the place where the beam is attached to the body often decays. If you have a semi-automatic welding machine, this can be corrected by making a new pad on the seat.

First, we disassemble the front suspension until free access to the rotten place is obtained and we clean it with a grinder, removing the rusty areas.

Then we cut out a patch of living metal along the cardboard pattern, drill it around the perimeter for better welding contact with the metal of the car and weld it in place as follows.

After that, we grind the welding points with a grinder, prime and cover with anti-corrosion mastic.

Niva VAZ 2121 is a fairly reliable and practical car that does not require expensive repairs. Almost all work, including bodywork, can be done by everyone in his garage at minimal cost.

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In this video, Andrey Lapochkin will tell and show how to choose the right wheel arch liners for the Niva and how to correctly install them on the car (what to look for when buying, how to fasten the wheel arch liners to the arches, how to fasten them, the order and difficult moments of installation). Sit back and watch.

Another video from Andrey Lapochkin on the anti-gravel coating of the Niva car. In this video Andrey tells and shows where it is really necessary to apply anti-gravel coating, how to clean it from dirt and how practicality and aesthetics can be combined when using “anti-gravel”.

A short narrative video about the modernization of the stove blowing system in the Niva 2131. During the modernization process, the air intake system fan itself was replaced and the air duct system was optimized in order to increase the blowing efficiency and, accordingly, heating the interior and windows of the car. ...

As a matter of fact, the content of this video is already reflected in its very title. You will learn how to independently replace the sidelights and headlights in a Niva 2121 car (they change in the same way in the 2131 model). The video is very detailed, each operation is shown in detail and commented on by the author. Enjoy it.

A detailed video on assembling and setting up a standard factory engine of a VAZ 21213 "Niva" car (1.8L, wide camshaft) from the "Theory of internal combustion engine" channel. In addition, by watching this video, you will learn how to correctly measure and optimize fuel consumption in a car. ...

We bring to your attention a video recording of the process of diagnosing and repairing a car Lada Niva TAIGA 1,7i 4 × 4 with a VAZ 21213 engine and installed gas equipment. Engine problems: the engine is "troit", starts very badly and runs unevenly. Video author: Alexander Skripchenko.

An informative video about what the untimely replacement of the timing (gas distribution mechanism) of the NIVA 21213 engine can lead to. Looking ahead, I will say that the engine was completely disabled, but the problem was solved, so to speak, with "little blood". The pumping process is especially clearly shown.

The third part of the video guide from Andrey Lapochkin “Purchase of B.U. FIELDS ". In this part, Andrey will talk about how to properly inspect the body and assess the condition of the car's paintwork. You will learn how to determine whether the car has been repainted, damaged, whether the body has been deformed (rust,.

The second part of the video instruction from Andrey Lapochkin on how to assess the technical condition of a "used" Niva. In this part, you will learn how to check the Niva's chassis, engine and exhaust system. Watch, learn, remember, and do not be deceived by dishonest sellers. Given the fact.

I bring to your attention an interesting video from Andrey Lapochkin, in which he talks about how to correctly assess the technical condition of a used Niva (for example, before buying for yourself or for the purpose of subsequent resale). Of course, advanced "nivovody" are unlikely to be found here for.

When looking for a car with an initially increased cross-country ability, which is ideal as a base for tuning, you should pay attention to Niva. This SUV of Russian origin has been used in harsh conditions for several decades.A fairly large number of modifications of this car under different names have gone on sale. Niva 2131 tuning can relate to a wide variety of systems and components, but most often the installed engine is being reworked. Let's consider all the features of this work in more detail.

Oddly enough, even upgrading the exhaust system allows you to increase the engine power. At the same time, we note one important point - the value of the load does not increase. Among the features of such work, we note the following points:

• In most cases, tuning the exhaust system involves the installation of modern exhaust and intake manifolds.
• Due to their special design, the collectors make the flow of air and exhaust gases more free. Therefore, the resistance decreases and the efficiency increases significantly.
• In some cases, the installation of a resonator from a muffler is carried out. Due to it, the process of exhausting gases is simplified, and the sound of the car is also improved.

In addition, the muffler can be attributed further to the rear axle. Due to this, the resistance in the exhaust system is also reduced, and the efficiency indicator is increased.

In order to increase the service life of the installed engine, work is often carried out to modernize the oil pump. There are several guidelines for how to do this upgrade. In this case, you will need one more pump, from which you will have to cut off a part of the body with the plane of the connector. When carrying out this work, it should be borne in mind that the thickness of the resulting pancake should be about 11 cm.After this, the milling process removes the excess so that the thickness is about 10 cm.

The next step in reworking the pump is to chamfer the edges of the teeth. For this, the following kind of work is carried out:

• The drive gear is being dismantled.
• One of the gears is cut by 0.75 mm on each side.
• The second gear, after trimming, is cut to 11.5 mm.

All the above operations should be repeated with other gears.

Further work involves changing the body. For this:

1. It is necessary to free the driven gear axle.
2. A drive roller is used to form a longer axis.
3. The formed axle is inserted into the resulting housing.
4. The previously obtained narrow gear is pressed onto the second drive roller.
5. The next step is to fit a wide gear.
6. A narrow gear is installed in the housing.

By upgrading the design, it is possible to eliminate the likelihood of rotation of the gears relative to each other, thereby increasing the efficiency of the design.

Sidebar: Important: A more efficient pump will pump oil faster. It is oil starvation that often becomes the reason why the motor quickly becomes unusable.

Engineers have long been of the opinion that it is the turbine that provides the surge of more power due to the active enrichment of the mixture. It should be borne in mind that the installation of the turbine is not a difficult modification, however, the high cost of the compressor can become an obstacle to such tuning.

The design of the installed turbine is usually quite simple:

• The central part is a shaft that receives rotary motion.
• The impeller of the supercharger and the turbine is installed on the shaft.
• The exhaust gases become a kind of drive, which also makes it possible to significantly increase the efficiency.

The moment that the shaft does not receive rotary motion from the crankshaft itself or related mechanisms can significantly increase the efficiency of the installation and its power. It is possible to install the turbine with your own hands, but because of its rather high cost, about 40,000 rubles for the simplest model, it is better to entrust the work to professionals.

Another common tuning method is the installation of a lightweight crankshaft instead of the standard one. This kind of revision requires a partial analysis of the internal combustion engine design.

The features of this type of tuning include the following points:

• By reducing the mass of the shaft, the efficiency of the structure is significantly increased. This is because the motor requires less energy to turn it. Lightweight versions of the crankshaft have the same high strength and reliability that are achieved when using special alloys at the time of their manufacture.
• The power of the power plant is also increased by increasing the stroke of the rods. This is due to the fact that due to this, the volume of the combustion chamber increases slightly, and the released force during the combustion of fuel is greater.
• Many experts recommend replacing piston rings at the same time.

Such improvements allow:

1. Increase power.
2. Increase the smoothness of the ride.

However, it should be borne in mind that with an increase in the stroke of the rod, the fuel consumption rate also increases. In addition, an increase in the amount of released energy causes increased wear and tear of the structure.

Rarely, but still cylinder boring is carried out. Today, not many people carry out such tuning, which is due to its rather large number of various disadvantages:

1. The complexity of the work determines not only their high cost, but also the likelihood of a defect, due to which the term of work is reduced. Of course, modern equipment allows you to check the correctness of the geometry, but this indicates that it is impossible to do without the intervention of specialists.
2. Due to boring, the volume of the cylinder block increases, which means that much more fuel burns over a certain period of time. In other words, the tuning in question becomes the reason for the increase in fuel consumption.
3. When boring, other structural elements of the internal combustion engine are also replaced. This also becomes the reason for a significant increase in the cost of the work carried out.
4. When the metal is removed, the walls become thinner and the load increases. This leads to the fact that the engine serves much less, the heat exchange process deteriorates. Therefore, with such tuning, problems may arise with the operation of the motor under load.

With so many different problems that arise when boring the engine, the power does not increase significantly. Many other tuning methods can also increase this figure without reducing the life of the structure and increasing fuel consumption.

The carburetors installed by VAZ, to put it mildly, have low efficiency. That is why many people start tuning by changing this element. The features of the work carried out include the following points:

• The pump accelerator spout is being updated. It often becomes the cause of air turbulence, due to which the efficiency of enrichment of the mixture decreases.
• In almost all cases, the jet is replaced with an indicator of 1 kam for 2 kam. It also allows for a significant increase in the efficiency of the carburetor.
• It is recommended to clean all irregularities and roughness, as this leads to an increase in air resistance during operation. For this, files and sandpaper are used.
• It is also necessary to clean the structure from various carbon deposits or other combustion products. This may require a special cleaning agent. Some craftsmen use special baths to remove dirt.

In the case when an injector is installed, it is almost impossible to do it yourself. Only a professional who knows the features of such a design will be able to change the main indicators to increase power or reduce consumption. Self-tuning in this case can lead to serious malfunctions.

Anton. When I bought a Niva for fishing trips, I was at first pleased, it cannot be compared with my sedan in terms of cross-country ability. But after a while I realized that due to insufficient power, I still need to look for easy ways.Friends advised to upgrade the engine or install a new one. There was no money for a new one, but the already installed smog could be modified.

Victor. VAZ is not famous for its motors, and the Niva is a confirmation of this. Almost all installed models have very low efficiency and reliability, durability. Many talk about high maintainability, why would it be if the structure did not fail so often. Therefore, I installed another motor on my Niva and did not regret the choice.

Alexei. Niva is Niva: noisy, it doesn't stand well on the track, there is no comfort, but on the off-road you feel comfortable. She began to modernize her gradually, it came down to the motor. What can I say: there is a lot of work, almost everything requires improvement, it is not a fact that the tuning performed will lead to the desired result.

Maksim. I did the tuning myself. I started with the simplest thing - replacing consumables with better ones, then it came to more complex work. Of course, an increase of 30 hp. not essential, but it also made you feel more confident on the road surface.

Engine improvement work is the most costly and problematic. However, even with a modern suspension and a comfortable interior, it will be quite difficult to enjoy driving a car. This is due to the fact that the lack of proper traction has a bad effect on cross-country ability, the car starts to stall when overcoming difficult terrain. Do not forget that some modifications can significantly increase wear resistance and other qualities.

Many experts recommend upgrading the motor in stages: from simple to complex, if possible. Of course, with substantial dismantling, all available work should be carried out so as not to repeat dismantling work again. If you do not have the necessary skills or equipment to carry out the work, then it is best to entrust it to professionals. This is due to the fact that even if the operation of such a complex mechanism as an internal combustion engine is incorrectly adjusted, operation for several minutes can lead to critical damage to the main elements.