Using any water heater, and Ariston is no exception in this case, it is necessary to carry out regular descaling. In order for the unit not to fail in advance, it is recommended to clean it once every six months, and replace the magnesium anode once a year or two. All this can be done with your own hands, and this has already been described earlier in the article "Why and what is a magnesium anode in a water heater for". But before starting to carry out cleaning activities, it is worth learning how to disassemble the Ariston water heater.
These are the minimum preventive measures that you can do at home with your own hands and without the use of special equipment. Of course, when a heater, a thermal sensor fails, or other serious problems arise, you should not risk it and it is better to turn to professionals. The rest - everything depends only on you.
Not only home owners provide themselves with autonomous hot water. More and more residents of apartment buildings prefer to install flow-through or storage water heaters. There are 2 reasons for such unconditional popularity - interruptions in hot water supply, especially in the off-season, and the high cost of hot water supply.
For several years, the Italian boilers Ariston have been popular. They are of high quality, reliability, long service life, if used correctly. Nothing eternal has yet been invented, and therefore repairs sometimes have to be done on their own.
And although a water heater is a rather complex device, its regular cleaning and maintenance can be done independently in just a couple of hours. The main thing is, before starting the actual work, understand not only how the equipment works, but also how to disassemble it correctly.
The most important thing is to completely drain the water from the boiler. On the lower part there are 2 nozzles, one of them enters the boiler, and the other is drained.
Even after the water is completely drained, some of it remains at the bottom of the tank, so place a bowl for the rest before opening the lid.
Since a high-quality drain is the key to the successful outcome of the entire operation, we will dwell on it in more detail.
The procedure depends on the features of a particular model - with a trigger, tee or by means of a check valve.
If, during any manipulations, water does not flow from the return, open the hot water tap to create the necessary air flow, and do not close it until the boiler is empty.
Attention! All work is carried out only after the water heater is disconnected from the power supply!
For those who have no time to read, we have prepared a video instruction on how to disassemble the Ariston water heater. Here you will learn about the features of installation, connection to pipes, cleaning, etc.
We repeat once again, all work on the disassembly of the water heater is carried out only when it is completely de-energized.
VIDEO
A feature of Ariston water heaters is the presence of an oval-shaped flange.
disconnect the boiler from the network;
drain the water through the return pipe;
remove the cover from the bottom of the unit;
carefully pull out the thermostat so as not to damage the gasket;
an oval flange is accessed.
Before starting to pull out the flange, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts on the strip, remove it, pull out the heating element with a scrolling motion, and only then remove the flange. Otherwise, it will not work.
In order to replace and correctly install the flange, take a photograph of its position in the neck of the water heater in advance. Otherwise, water will constantly leak.
Be sure to change the gasket! It should be of high quality, preferably a branded product, designed for 2 years of continuous operation.
After the flange and gaskets have been replaced, the electrical block, internal components, heating elements are cleaned with a sponge, and the magnesium anode is replaced if necessary.
The assembly is carried out in the reverse sequential order so as not to violate the structure and to prevent its failure.
The range of products includes medium class water heaters with improved functional characteristics. The main design feature is that here the flange is bolted in the amount of 4-6 pieces.
disconnect the device from the network;
drain the water;
remove the cover from the bottom of the case;
disconnect the wires from the heating element and unscrew all the nuts;
slightly pressing the heating element inward with a slight scroll, pull it out - clean or change;
unscrew the nuts on the bar and take out the flange;
change it and the gasket.
For those who are used to solving problems on their own, it will not be difficult to disassemble the Ariston water heater and carry out its prevention. By and large, there is nothing difficult in this operation, only diligence and strict adherence to instructions are required. Record all actions carried out with the device in order to subsequently collect everything exactly the opposite.
An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, breaks down periodically.
If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.
To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.
An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.
The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature.After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.
Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.
The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.
To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is specifically designed to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.
As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.
Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.
Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.
Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.
The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.
The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.
Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.
First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.
If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval 220-250 V.Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.
If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.
Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.
To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.
After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.
Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.
If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.
A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.
The water heater tank most often leaks if:
damage to the internal tank has occurred;
the heating element has deteriorated;
leaky gasket.
If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.
A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.
If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs.This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.
Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.
On horizontal type devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.
After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.
If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.
The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:
increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
the appearance of impurities in tap water, a change in its color, smell or taste.
If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:
Disconnect the device from the power supply.
Remove the protective cover.
Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
Shut off cold water supply.
Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
Unscrew the screws holding the heating element.
Remove the heating element and descale it.
Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
Rinse the device thoroughly.
Check the health of the magnesium anode.
If necessary, replace this element immediately.
Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
Install the heating element in place.
Reassemble the device.
Check the tightness of all fasteners.
Connect the water heater to the power supply.
Check for grounding.
The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.
This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.
A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:
VIDEO
It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center.Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.
Today, various types of heaters have become very firmly established in our modern everyday life. Specialized stores offer products from well-known world brands, such as Ariston, for example. Despite the high reliability, any household appliances can fail over time for any reason. In this case, it will be useful to know how to carry out an independent repair of the Ariston water heater.
In the mid-40s of the last century, Aristide Merloni launched the production of electric water heaters under the Ariston brand (Successful). The name fully justified itself, and after a while all the sons of the entrepreneur successfully entered a similar business, and the youngest, Vittorio, inherited his father's company.
The Ariston company today is one of the three leaders in terms of global sales of household appliances, and Ariston brand kitchens are sold with already built-in basic household appliances from a refrigerator to a dishwasher. In Russia, this company became famous at the end of the 90s of the last century, and now almost every large city has its service center.
Ariston water heaters have a stylish modern design, excellent functionality, differ from analogues of other manufacturers by a reasonable price. Developers pay reverent attention product safety during operation: the units are equipped with various protection for all occasions, which turn off the product in the event of a power failure, overheating, no water supply.
But this reliable technique suffers from the hardness of our water and the rather frequent drops, surges in voltage. The weakest points, according to experienced craftsmen, are tubular heating elements, a magnesium anode and a check valve. These very simple breakdowns can be eliminated with your own hands if you have the necessary minimum of tools. The design of the product has a standard scheme, so prevention and repair is not difficult.
The user should pay special attention to the integrity of the inner coating, where modern materials are used, which include titanium, silver strengthening enamels, glass ceramics and other high-tech additives.
Before disassembling the Ariston water heater for repair, it is necessary to study the design of the product, prepare the necessary tool, as well as various devices. To repair mechanical damage, such as water leakage, you need:
a set of keys or one small adjustable wrench;
a set of various adapters;
new non-return valve.
In the event of malfunctions with the electrical part, it is necessary to prepare multimeter .
Preparation also includes such work: disconnecting the device from the home electrical network, draining water from the tank.
A heating element.
Thermostat - designed to control the set temperature, as well as to adjust the heating mode.
A relay that controls the switching on or off of the heating element.
Special anode - it protects the inner coating from corrosion.
Safety valve - regulates the internal pressure when heating water.
Signal lights in budget models (they should turn on when power is applied) or electronics for more expensive products.
The home craftsman should study the instructions in detail before starting prophylaxis or minor repairs in order to navigate freely.
According to statistics, during the operation of the Ariston boiler, the following typical malfunctions may appear:
no water heating - heating element burned out;
thermostat replacement required;
the magnesium anode has completely used up the assigned resource;
a large layer of limescale from the heating elements has formed.
In the event of these malfunctions, in addition to the second option, you need a complete disassembly of the product.
There is absolutely no difference what volume you have an Ariston water heater - 50 or 100 liters, the dismantling process will be identical.
Water heater thermostat Ariston
Every owner of Ariston water heaters should know that when replacing a thermostat, relay and safety valve no need to dismantle the tank. Water draining and complete disassembly of the boiler is carried out only during maintenance work and when replacing a burned out heating element.
Disassembly of the product is divided into standard steps:
Disconnect the water heater from the household power supply.
Drain the water tank.
Dismantle the flanges, access the inside of the water heater.
Before disassembling the product, you must make sure that it disconnected from the network : if the heater is powered by a separate line, then it is necessary to turn off the circuit breaker, if just through the cord, then simply unplug the plug.
Some readers may wonder: why emphasize these points so often? But statistics claim that during home repairs or when burnt-out parts are replaced, very often craftsmen who neglect safety precautions receive electrical injuries of varying severity.
Only after de-energizing, you can begin to dismantle the Ariston boiler with your own hands:
unscrew the cover, which is fastened with screws;
before starting dismantling, take a picture of the location so as not to confuse anything during assembly;
disconnect three-core cable , the first two wires - phase and zero were connected to the thermostat, so you can carefully remove it.
All work on the electrical part has been successfully completed, you can start draining the water from the tank.
If the initial installation of the water heater was carried out by a master from the service, then he should have installed special tee with a drain cock and screw the fitting into it. Quite a handy device - the user easily connects the hose, as shown in the photo, and drains the water into the bathroom. In the absence of a special device, water is removed by connecting a hose directly to the product's branch pipe.
Need to know! To balance the external and internal pressure, open the hot water tap.
Draining the water can take several minutes, if the capacity of the heater is up to 50 liters, and when you have Ariston for 80 liters, the wait will drag on for up to 30 minutes or more.
All modifications of products under the brand Ariston have an oval flange on which the shades are installed, a magnesium anode and a tube with a thermostat inside ... Put on the flange body from below elastic rubber pad to ensure tightness. The flange is fixed with a U-shaped bar, which is fixed with a nut.
We unscrew the nut, carefully push the flange inward, turn it and remove it outward. Further, the failed parts are replaced and the surfaces are cleaned from salt and lime deposits.
Attention! Efforts must not be made when cleaning the boiler tank: over time, it becomes thinner due to the effects of corrosion. When carrying out preventive maintenance, it is advisable not to clean thin scale.
Remove excess debris at the bottom of the tank, visually inspect the rubber seal, if everything is in order, then do not change it - it is very expensive, and it is very difficult to get a new one. Dismantling and subsequent assembly can be done independently by any user without special training. We attach this video to help:
VIDEO The operating statistics of similar heaters allows us to conclude: regular inspections of the wear of the magnesium anode, cleaning the heating element, prevention of the inner lining of the tank must be done on a regular basis, this will significantly extend the life of the product.
Many models of water heaters are equipped with an electronic display on which different error codes ... You can decipher them using the instructions. Visually, the user can identify the following malfunctions:
the product does not turn on - the circuit breaker has tripped;
the water is very hot - the thermostat has burned out;
drips form in the bottom of the tank;
if when the product is turned on, the plug heats up - this is a signal that the power of the outlet is low.
Some users do not suspect that the boiler may not turn on for a reason burning contact in the socket , which indicates its low power or lack of grounding.
Any failure of reliable household appliances can provoke the following reasons:
The formation of a large amount of scale on the heating element.
Voltage surges in the electrical network contribute to electronics failure.
Reduced water flow due to clogged filter and non-return valve.
To reanimate the equipment, you will need spare parts, cleaning the heating element and flushing the inside of the tank.
Advice! In order for any brand of equipment to serve for a long time and properly, do not set the temperature above 60 0 C - this significantly reduces the process of scale formation.
VIDEO
During the operation of the Ariston storage water heater, the following problems may arise:
The unit does not turn on.
Cold water flows from the tap.
Slightly warm or too hot water flows from the tap
Water dripping from the safety valve.
Tank leak.
Each of these situations requires diagnostics and repairs; most of the repairs can be done by hand, with some skills. Make sure that the apartment or house has a water and electricity supply.
First of all, check the power supply to your storage water heater. Pay attention to the condition of the outlet, whether it is burnt or melted, this may happen due to inappropriate parameters of the outlet and the power of the device.
Ring the wire with a tester or indicator screwdriver, the wire may be broken. In a good wire, the indicator lights up only on "phase", on "zero" and "ground" there is no signal. Check the contacts connecting the wire and the water heater; over time, the contacts oxidize and "boil".
If this happens, unscrew the wire, strip the contacts, then reconnect the power cable. Check the serviceability of the RCD by pressing the "Test" button, if the device is turned off, this indicates the serviceability of the RCD. Check if the wires on the switchboard are securely connected, if the wire is unscrewed or loosely held, screw it on.
The reason may be the disconnection of the fuse in case of voltage surges or in the case when the wire does not correspond to the parameters declared by the manufacturer. For Ariston 80 liters, the cable must be marked H05VV-F 3 * 1.5 sq. Mm, with a diameter of 8.5 mm, this should be taken into account in case of replacing a faulty cable.
The cause of a malfunction of this nature can be a breakdown of a heating element, a thermostat and a large layer of scale on these devices. Before determining the cause of the malfunction of the 80-liter Ariston water heater and doing repairs with your own hands, you should turn off the power supply and drain the water.
Then, using a 13 key, a Phillips screwdriver, remove the protective box and loosen the bolts on the mounting plate. Carefully remove the flange on which the heating element and thermostat are attached. Now you need to descale these 2 devices.
The thermostat should be unscrewed, cleaning the attachment points to the flange from sediment, then carefully, using a screwdriver, free the thermostat from scale. You can check the operability by using a tester, the absence of a signal on its contacts indicates a malfunction and the need for replacement, since the thermostat cannot be repaired.
You can also check the heating element for operability using a tester by connecting the ends of the tester to the contacts of the heating element.If there is voltage, the heating element is working properly, but it needs to be cleaned. The heating element can be cleaned with a screwdriver, carefully removing the pieces of deposits.
Then you need to prepare a solution of citric acid - 100 g per 1 liter of water and immerse a heating element in the solution. The effect of the solution on the device will be indicated by air bubbles that appear as a result of the reaction. If such an action is not enough for complete cleansing, you can put a vessel with a solution and heating element on a slow fire.
After cleaning the heating element, descale the tank. Care should be taken not to damage the inner surface of the tank. If it is possible to remove the heater from the wall, cleaning can be done with a citric acid solution by pouring it into the tank.
After the performed manipulations, assemble all the parts in the order in which they were disassembled and carefully insert and secure the flange. Make sure that during assembly there are no distortions of parts, do not overtighten the bolts, change the gasket between the body of your storage boiler and the flange, since the flange gasket was also exposed to salts.
If water drips from the water heater, the reason may be the absence of a safety valve, installation of a valve with inappropriate parameters, clogging of its deposits. In this case, the excess pressure, which appears as a result of an increase in temperature and the absence of its release, acts on the walls of the tank.
Over time, this situation leads to a violation of the integrity of the welds and the leakage of the tank. Do-it-yourself tank repair is impractical if the tank is made of stainless steel requires argon welding, performed only by specialists, if the tank is covered with glass enamel, welding is impossible.
Replacing the tank will damage the housing. If the tank leaks, you will have to change the water heater. In order not to bring it to this, monitor the serviceability of the safety valve and carry out its timely cleaning.
In working condition, when heated, water should drip from it, but if water drips even when the unit is turned off, it should be calibrated or replaced with a new one. When buying a new one, be sure to choose a valve with the same parameters as on the standard one. Calibration can only be carried out by specialists of the service center.
To determine the nature of the malfunction and its elimination, it is desirable to have an idea of the boiler device. Below is a diagram of the device with horizontal and vertical installation type.
The problem of the periodic lack of hot water supply in apartment buildings and private houses can be easily solved with the help of water heaters. Among the popular models are Ariston devices, which are of good quality and relatively low cost. However, even high-quality devices can fail for one reason or another. This article will focus on the intricacies of the repair process for Ariston water heaters.
Ariston boilers are very popular all over the world. Water heaters of this brand are of good quality, but this does not exclude the possibility of breakage of any elements. First of all, malfunctions arise as a result of exposure to low-quality water with a large amount of impurities. The second negative factor is power outages, which can cause sudden surges in the power grid.
The weakest points in Ariston boilers, according to experts, are the heater (TEN), magnesium anode and safety valve. Breakdowns of these elements do not require special skill to fix them. It is enough to know the design features of the device and carefully follow all the repair instructions.
Malfunctions in the operation of Ariston water heaters are most often associated with the failure of certain elements inside the case. To fix the device with your own hands, first of all, you need to be able to properly disassemble the device in order to gain access to the broken parts.
Ariston electric boilers are of two types: flow and storage. Accumulative models have a tank with a volume of 10 liters or more, into which water enters. After the water in the container warms up to the required temperature, you can start using it. Flow models carry out instant heating of water and its uninterrupted supply through the tap, already hot. Such appliances are not equipped with water storage tanks.
Storage devices can be roughly divided into two categories, which differ in the size of the tank. Small-sized structures with a water capacity of up to 30 liters are usually installed in the kitchen. Such appliances can provide only a small amount of hot water.
For installation in bathrooms, models with a tank of 80 or 100 liters are mainly used.
Boilers with a capacity of 50 liters are also in demand, as they can provide hot water for 15 minutes, which is enough for taking water in the shower.
The most common breakdowns of storage-type Ariston boilers. Let's consider the design of such devices in more detail:
the device is equipped with an external protective case, which is most often made of stainless steel;
there are fasteners on the body that are designed to fix the device to the wall;
internal stainless steel tank, which is designed to accumulate water;
a heating element that brings the water to the desired temperature;
the thermostat is responsible for automating the process of heating the liquid by controlling its temperature;
an electronic relay ensures that the heater is turned off by a signal from the thermostat when the required water temperature is reached;
the magnesium anode plays the role of protection against corrosive formations;
a safety (safety) valve prevents the boiler from breaking down in the event of a sudden change in pressure in the tank due to water heating to a high temperature;
a tube with a splitter, through which cold water enters the tank;
there are several paws on the case, which shine when the device is turned on to the network;
control panel on the outside of the case, which is equipped with more expensive devices.
Before proceeding with the repair of equipment, it is important to accurately identify the cause of the problem. The most common problems encountered during boiler operation are as follows:
the water in the tank began to heat up very slowly;
the boiler emits uncharacteristic sounds, which can be expressed in crackling, squeaking and hissing;
The heating element heats the water to a temperature that is higher than the set one;
the water does not heat up and remains cold;
a container for water intake is flowing;
when the boiler is connected to the mains, the voltage indicator does not light up;
the voltage indicator light is on, but the device does not work, as the blocking is triggered;
the control panel has gone out or all the lights are flashing.
Long-term heating of water is most often associated with the formation of plaque on the heating element. The second reason may be out of order thermostat settings.
Abnormal sounds during operation of the device may be caused by failure of the safety valve. And also extraneous noises can occur if the tank is rusted and leaks, or a lot of scale has accumulated inside.
Video (click to play).
Strong overheating of the water is associated with a problem in the operation of the thermostat - the element is out of order, or the settings are out of order. If the water does not heat up at all, then the reason is related to the breakdown of the heating element. In the event that the boiler starts to drip, it is first of all recommended to carefully inspect the body of the device, as it could rust.If the tank has leaked from the bottom, this may be due to improper installation of the water heater.
