In detail: do-it-yourself bumper repair bmw e39 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Repair of both the body and the units is especially relevant for old cars. In this article, the most common types of body repair are considered using the example of BMW models in the E34 and E39 bodies.
BMW E39 and even more so E34 have long been removed from the assembly line. Therefore, problems with body parts can arise not only due to road accidents, but also due to aging. And although these cars are considered very reliable, their bodies are still corroded.
BMW E39 and E34 are models of the premium segment of the E class or 5 series according to the manufacturer's classification. However, it is common knowledge that German premium cars are losing value very quickly in the secondary market, so now such cars are comparable in price to new budget models. Consequently, they are purchased by poor people, and they carry out repairs during operation either with their own hands or in simple unofficial workshops.
As for corrosion, the most susceptible body parts of the BMW E34 and E39 are sills, lower edges of doors, fenders.
However, there are many cars involved in road accidents on the secondary market. If the body repair was done incorrectly, corrosion may also form in other places. Bumpers are the most frequently damaged in road accidents.
This article discusses the most common and frequently performed body repairs for BMW E34 and E39 generations, such as replacing or refurbishing bumpers and sills. The easiest way is to replace these parts. Moreover, there are many body elements and other spare parts for the cars in question, both branded and non-original, new and used, on the market.
Video (click to play).
In order to make high-quality body repairs, you will need, first of all, a well-lit room. Moreover, you should use both basic and portable lighting devices.
As for the tools, in the case of a one-time repair, their list is determined by the type of work. However, it is advisable to purchase universal equipment in case it is used to restore various damage to the body in the future.
For example, the body repair of BMW E34, E39 thresholds is considered.
First you need to raise the car or one of its sides. In this case, you should first check the integrity of the bottom, since the rear jack is susceptible to corrosion damage. Then the wheels are dismantled.
After that, you need to disassemble the lower part of the cabin from the repair side. Dismantle carpets, seats, lower sidewalls. It is especially problematic to remove the floor covering, since it is represented as a single piece, therefore, to dismantle it, you will have to remove all the seats. However, you can cut off a small piece of carpet and glue it in after renovation.
Finally, the threshold and arch are removed. After that, it will be seen how damaged the body is under these parts, as well as themselves. And on the basis of this, a decision is made to repair or replace.
BMW E34 and E39 are equipped with plastic bumpers, which are repaired according to the rules common to such parts. This will require:
soldering iron;
chopped wire or mesh;
putty;
abrasive tools (sandpaper of various grain sizes or a sander);
paints and varnishes.
First of all, you need to dismantle the bumper from the car and remove unnecessary elements from it (aluminum amplifier, headlight washer nozzles). Body repair of this type begins with heating wire fragments or mesh with a soldering iron. It is gradually recessed into the bumper crack from the rear side. In this way, the crack is connected and strengthened, and then it is soldered.From the outside, perform the same operations, only more carefully.
After that, putty is applied and the surface is sanded with 100 grit sandpaper or with a grinding machine with a nozzle of similar abrasiveness. Further, these operations are repeated in order to shape and fill the grooves in the soldering points with putty. Then the surface is covered with a fine-grained putty and low abrasive sandpaper is used for grinding.
Finally, the damaged section of the bumper is painted.
Before starting work, you should inspect it well: if at the same time, scratches were found in other places, the part should be repainted completely.
In addition, in the case of staining a fragment, it can be difficult to achieve the same shades of the new and old paintwork due to the fading of the latter.
Cracked bumper repair - Photo report.
This topic is for those who want to fix the bumper with their own hands. Cheap and reliable.
A piece is broken off, and a bunch of cracks.
We remove from the car, twist the excess (In my case, the washer nozzle and the aluminum bumper amplifier) If possible, we climb into the inner side of the bumper. (A small piece is already sealed in the photo).
You will need a wire from an electrical cable 1-1.5 squares. We bend in such a way as to strengthen the cracked part.
Next, you need either a powerful soldering iron or a soldering iron that heats up from a gas burner in 15 minutes.
We warm up and insert the wire into the bumper. We cut a new one.
The same procedure. We also go along the crack and solder the burst parts of the plastic.
Outside, we reinforce the missing piece of plastic with a mesh. And we also solder cracks, only more subtle than from the inside.
Next, apply a putty with fiberglass on 2 sides (main layer)
We grind with a large foot 100 (you can use a grinder if you have one)
We apply again, already shaping and glossing over the grooves in the soldering points.
Then we apply a fine-grained putty and putty already with a small foot.
And so we repeat until the surface is flat. I didn’t turn around a lot, I just leveled it with a 500tk little leg, since I tinted the bumper with ordinary black paint. And for an ideal bumper you need to grind various scratches in many places. And then paint the whole thing entirely.
All this was done in 1 evening.
In the end, this is what happened:
Also a couple of pictures of the rear bumper. Only here I soldered the wire from the outside.
I tried to solder both with a 100vt soldering iron and a burner. The structure of the BMW e34 plastic is broken and a high-quality seam does not work, maybe there are some features. and what type of plastic is used? What is the melting point?
I tried to solder both with a 100vt soldering iron and a burner. The structure of the BMW e34 plastic is broken and a high-quality seam does not work, maybe there are some features. and what type of plastic is used? What is the melting point?
Soldered with solder? Recently I soldered myself a bit off corner of the bumper, there was no fragment of 2 × 6 cm.Everything is ok, and strong.
I tried to solder both with a 100vt soldering iron and a burner. The structure of the BMW e34 plastic is broken and a high-quality seam does not work, maybe there are some features. and what type of plastic is used? What is the melting point?
Is it about the usual, or m-tec and others like them? I heard that the plastic there is different and is not soldered, but the usual one also soldered it, everything is ok.
The usual one is soldered with a bang with an ordinary soldering iron
The usual one is soldered with a bang with an ordinary soldering iron
+ 1. Everything worked out too, I soldered the lower "lip". As a reinforcing mesh I took a mesh from the air filter of the TAZIK
I tried to solder M-tech, did not know that they were with stock from different types of plastic.
Thanks for the clarification. And yet, where to find out the type of plastic used on the m-tech and on the drain, otherwise there are no markings.
I tried to solder M-tech, did not know that they were with stock from different types of plastic.
Thanks for the clarification. And yet, where to find out the type of plastic used on the m-tech and on the drain, otherwise there are no markings.
Yes, m-tech, schnitzer, and so on are lightweight - the tuning ones are made of different plastic, at the moment I forgot its name, and I do not remember it in any way.
I don’t know how to distinguish it visually.
In my opinion, many repairers will not be able to tell the difference until they start soldering.
the author of the plus sign for the work done!
I agree for the work + M-tech is not soldered there some kind of porous structure and plastic with crumb. When heated, a pungent odor is released, the structure of the plastic is disturbed. it becomes soft and putty is poorly taken to it. So if you have M-tech, it's better not to solder it, but try to glue it together. I was missing a corner on the right side. somewhere a piece of 8-8cm molded a new one from fiberglass and polyester. Polyester does not hold small caps. I used super glue Gel for ABS PP and other plastic very effectively and I am satisfied with the result. Maybe someone will come in handy.
everything will fall apart or the mesh will rot and the plastic bumper will start to rust))))
As an option for sale, normal, but not for yourself.
A soldering iron will also not work well.
bumpers are boiled with hot air and plastic, homogeneous in composition, for bmw it is ABS plastic
if it stinks and is not sung, it’s like ANS or AVN — a lot with the letter H — this is a flight, but you can overpower it with air.
Putty only on plastic, and the green glass fiber will fly off all at once
Still a prize for undertakings.
M-those I tried to solder with a hot air gun, I made rods from it, I did not master it. Which confirms the above post. In the place of soldering, the structure of the plastic of the m-tech bumper was broken as a result of heating, the crack was never sealed. among other things, the place of soldering became somehow oily, in short, the putty with fiberglass did not hold well, the oily layer had to be cleaned, it turned out to be quite deep, depending on the area and duration of heating, then everything is correct the putty for plastic is more elastic, less brittle, with good adhesion to plastic.
So, I do not recommend taking those with severe damage for restoration. Especially with cracks along the top edge and where the moldings are. M-those are better off trying to glue.
The drain can be soldered. rods can be cut from the same bumper, or from the same type of plastic.
everything will fall apart or the mesh will rot and the plastic bumper will start to rust))))
As an option for sale, normal, but not for yourself.
A soldering iron will also not work well.
bumpers are boiled with hot air and plastic, homogeneous in composition, for bmw it is ABS plastic
if it stinks and is not sung, it’s like ANS or AVN — a lot with the letter H — this is a flight, but you can overpower it with air.
Putty only on plastic, and the green glass fiber will fly off all at once
Still a prize for undertakings.
Can you sell bumpers?
Since when will an aluminum mesh covered with a layer of putty rot?
Justify why, the mesh will rot, why the putty will fall off, why the soldering iron does not work well when the heated plastic is literally mixed with the soldering iron in the place of the crack.
I did something similar with mine, in the outer part I heated a wire and fused it into the bumper. staples turned out, the whole thing was fixed, with molten plastic, it holds well, the same shape has not lost. And on the outer part of the bumper I soldered a thin layer of thin plastic with a neat layer, polished it .. it turned out exactly, it remains to paint, there is a photo but of poor quality. did not get dirty.
black square.
I have been repairing bumpers for more than one year, and for the same years I have been picking out nets from bumpers)))
You used the putty not for its composition, this putty was made for not for plastic. At the slightest impact, it will move away from the plastic or give a crack at the joints in which the water will do its job.
Of course, I understand that you wereted and spent a lot of time on it, but the technology for repairing bumpers is not at all the same
Yes, you do not need to solder anything with a soldering iron, the plastic leads to warming with a hairdryer from the temperature. This is the stone age. There is a wonderful adhesive composition with reinforcing powder. It holds much better than brazed ones. It breaks next to the repair site but not along the glue line. If you try, you can even do without putty, the main thing is to strictly follow the technology.
