DIY pool repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pool repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The masters argue that it is not so much the process of eliminating the hole itself that is difficult, but rather finding it. We will analyze what is needed for the repair, and what is the algorithm of actions.

To eliminate leaks in frame pools, ready-made repair kits are sold. They can be purchased in the markets in the fishing department or in the pool shops.

Self-adhesive underwater repair patches. Allows you to carry out repairs right in the water. The patch needs to be cut to the correct size. It will cover the hole.
If there is no patch, a piece of pvc material from which inflatable boats are sewn will do. For example, you can buy a pillow for a pvc boat.
Glue. Vinyl Cement cold welding superglue is presented in the sets of Intex. It contains ethyl acetate, methyl ethyl ketone, acetone and polyurethane rubber.

Other adhesives can also be used.

Craftsmen who have already had a chance to repair a frame pool recommend the following tools:

Rubber glue "Moment": designed to work with hard and foamed rubber, gives a strong, elastic and, which is especially important for swimming pools, a waterproof seam. Convenient for home renovation and cheap.
Plumbing sealant - fills holes and cracks, does not turn yellow, does not crumble, is not afraid of water and ultraviolet radiation.
Roofing bituminous aluminum tape - designed to work with the roof, but according to reviews, it can keep the pool from leaking for a while. It is an adhesive coated foil. Scotch tape is resistant to moisture, has good sealing against environmental influences.

Video (click to play).

Also in the work, depending on the selected technology, you may need a hair dryer (preferably industrial), brick or any other press.

The first thing to do is find the leak. Water does not always decrease due to defects in the bowl or bottom.

It can evaporate or leak due to a defective gasket in the filtration system.

If such options are excluded, then it is recommended to drain the water and carefully inspect the pool surface.

There are other, faster ways to find damage:

Purchase a special color pigment. This substance is used to check the health of artificial reservoirs. It will help you quickly find a place with a defect.
It is better to start searching for damage to the bowl with the valve in the drain part. Also, water often appears outside the pool, getting there through small cracks.
At the bottom, the accumulation of dirt (silt) around the defect will help to find a leak.

When the damage is found, we proceed to fix it.

Degrease the surface at the leak.
We apply glue to two patches - one will be on the outside and the other on the inside. We apply them to the place of damage.

We repair the bottom of the frame pool in the same way as the bowl.

We roll the surface and heat the patches applied to the place of the defect with a hairdryer. From above, if we are repairing the bottom, we press it down with a heavy object, for example, bricks. Leave to dry for a day.

If you do not want to drain the water, you can try to renovate the pool directly with water.

To do this, we buy Intex self-adhesive underwater repair patches and press them to the defective spot on the inside. We hold the patch for a minute.

Next, we glue another patch dry from the back side.

Unfortunately, this technique will only provide a temporary result, and the pool may leak again.

In practice, Intex ready-made repair kits have proven the most effective - this option is more preferable for high-quality repairs.
If the cracks are very small and you don't feel like messing around, try sealing them with a sealant. With impressive holes, a patch is still indispensable.
Be careful when operating the pool.

If you cannot solve the problem yourself, contact a specialized company for help.

The desire to acquire a pool sooner or later arises in almost every resident of a private house or owner of a summer cottage.

Twenty years ago, a private pool was something simply unrealistic, since the cost of its construction and maintenance was absolutely exorbitant and absolutely inaccessible for the vast majority.

And there were practically no specialists capable of efficiently performing such a complex construction.

With the advent of modern materials and the improvement of building technologies, the situation has become much simpler.

Of course, the construction and maintenance of the pool and now costs not "a penny", but you can freely choose the size, technique and material for the bowl itself and the decoration of the pool "for any pocket."

And having some building skills, you can even build a pool in your courtyard with your own hands. There is plenty of information on this issue and recommendations from professionals, both in the choice of materials and in the types of construction methods on the Internet.

Actually, there are two options for private "home" pools.

These are swimming pools located inside a building - a residential or guest house, a summer residence, a bathhouse or a separate building.

And outdoor pools, located outside the buildings, directly on the site.

Outdoor pools, which we will talk about today, also have a lot of "subspecies":

stationary pools

with bowls of "production" type, that is, plastic, polypropylene, metal or fiberglass

Such stationary pools, with a lot of advantages, have one common drawback - color.

When purchasing a ready-made bowl, you will not have a very wide choice of several shades of blue and light blue.

Well, and also "cheerful" black - such bowls are also produced, and are used mainly for the construction of artificial ponds.

You won't have to dream of any other finishing option, for example, ceramic or stone mosaic.

Blue and only blue! Well, or blue. Or black "ocean depths".

That's the whole choice.

with concrete bowls poured directly on site.

Here you can "come off" to the fullest - both in shape and size and, of course, there will be practically no restrictions in the options and colors of finishing your pool.

Except the limits of your imagination or material possibilities.

Concrete pools can be simply painted, covered with polypropylene film, covered with ceramic tiles, natural stone or mosaics in any combination you can imagine.

But, any concrete pools also have one common drawback - the time for their construction will be spent SIGNIFICANTLY more than for a pool with a ready-made bowl.

Here the choice is yours.

seasonal pools - pools requiring dismantling for the winter or at least a complete drainage of water; these are all pools made of a variety of film materials.

A distinctive feature of such pools is a tendency to damage the integrity of the casing film in the cold season, some subspecies of films, in principle, do not tolerate low temperatures and simply crack, while the latter, although they "survive" in frosts, are easily damaged by ice fragments.

And the third can even break apart if the snow that has fallen into the pool bowl first melts, and then the resulting water freezes.

Well, these are the weaknesses of seasonal pools, but their advantages are that they are easy and simple to install and dismantle and, when assembled, are quite compact and will not take up much space for seasonal storage.

And the fact that during a long absence the film pool can be simply removed from "prying" eyes and hands, complete with a low cost, makes them very attractive for summer residents.

all-season non-monolithic pools - all types of pools other than the two mentioned above; These are frame pools and pools built using the same ready-made bowls made of plastic, fiberglass or polypropylene, but using a different technology.

Basically, such pools are not buried in the ground, but are installed on the soil surface.

For the convenience of using them, they either use special ladders, or construct comfortable platforms with steps surrounding the pool.

On such platforms, depending on their dimensions, you can equip a whole home beach, no worse than next to the "classic" sunken pools.

homemade pools from scrap materials - here the range of forms, materials, finishes and methods of execution is simply huge and limited, perhaps, only by the imagination of the "creator".

And of course, the availability of free materials at hand.

"Roof"

So you will keep the water clean for a longer time, minimizing the ingress of external pollutants into it - foliage from closely located trees and various debris brought by the wind.

Monolithic concrete pools are the most expensive of all the variety of home pools.

And the most labor-consuming in terms of time and amount of work.

But, a concrete pool is a durable, reliable and just a very beautiful building.

And, if you have enough time and money, definitely choose it.

Before starting construction, decide on the water drainage system - it can be a scrimmer or a crossflow.

Consider the stages of building a monolithic concrete pool:

choose the configuration, depth and size
using pegs and twine, we mark the future pool on the ground, while do not forget that the markings should be half a meter larger than the actual dimensions of the pool
digging a pit, again, remembering that it must be at least thirty centimeters deeper than the planned depth of the pool and have a slope under the water flow
we level the bottom of the pit, ram it and pour about thirty centimeters of sand, forming a pillow, and tamp it again
we line the waterproofing on the bottom and fill it with rubble and lay out a layer of metal mesh
we collect the frame from the reinforcement
digging a drainage well next to the pool, it must be made deeper than the pool itself
we install a drain pipe in the well and bring it into the pool
we start concreting the bowl, pour a thirty centimeter base along the lighthouses and after it dries (two to three days) we assemble the vertical formwork and fill the walls of the bowl
the structure will dry out for about two to three weeks
after the bowl is completely dry, we waterproof it with several layers of insulating mixture
after the waterproofing coating has dried, we proceed to the decorative finishing of the pool

One of the conditions for the successful and long-term operation of a concrete pool is its proper preservation for the winter.

A complete drainage of water, thorough cleaning of the pool bowl and treatment with anti-corrosion agents, dismantling of filtering equipment and heating will be required.

After cleaning and processing, the pool is half-filled with water and covered for the winter with special shields or a canopy.

All other variations of the installation of outdoor summer cottages are much more modest in terms of both cost and labor costs.

The main materials used for modern pool bowls are plastic and polypropylene, various composite fiberglass mixtures.

Let's briefly consider their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Composite pools - strong and durable, immediately suitable for installation, not destroyed by corrosion, made of six to nine layers of fiberglass impregnated with polyester resins.

Composite bowls have a smooth surface, a fairly wide range of colors, and are resistant to aggressive chemicals and ultraviolet light.

They have a warranty period of up to twenty years.

quick installation
light weight
significant strength
seamlessness of the bowl
the ability to use aggressive chemicals for water
long lifetime warranty
variety of shapes and colors

A plastic pool is a polypropylene sheet bowl made using polyfusion heat sealing.

Plastic pools are reinforced with stiffeners welded from the sides.

Both the size and shape of the plastic bowls are quite varied. Individual production according to customer's sketches is possible.

affordable price
no additional costs for finishing the bowl are required
robust and shock-resistant, durable - service life up to twenty years
quick installation, you can start a plastic pool from scratch in three days
good thermal insulation, makes it possible not to use the installation for heating water
100% tightness, the plastic bowl does not need additional waterproofing
environmentally friendly material, completely safe for humans and the environment
significant UV resistance - your pool will lose its rich color even after twenty years

Frame pools are divided into seasonal and all-season.

Seasonal ones are operated exclusively during the warm season.

All-season ones can not be cleaned for the winter, their material tolerates a significant amount of defrost and frost without being damaged and without losing its reliability and strength.

Frame pools also differ by frame type:

pivotal lightweight frames made of metal pipes or wooden beams, more often used for seasonal models

leafy frames are more stable and reliable, they are welded from metal sheets or assembled from plastic panels, they weigh a lot. Sheet frames do not need to be disassembled for the cold season

The service life of seasonal frame pools is up to five to seven years, all-season up to fifteen.

The bowls of frame pools are made of vinyl, rubberized cloth and the most durable of polyvinyl chloride (PVC - film).

Frame pools with a sheet frame type can have a depth of up to two and a half meters.

The times when inflatable pools were used only as children's "paddling pools" are long gone.

Modern inflatable structures are strong and durable and can be used without any problems for "bathers" of any age and build.

Advantages of inflatable pools:

affordable cost, a wide range of manufacturers will always allow you to choose a pool at an affordable price
convenience and quickness of installation, you can easily start a tatoy pool alone mobility, everything is very simple - tired of the pool in this corner, freely transferred it to another
compactness, when assembled, the inflatable pool will require very little space for transportation and storage
the possibility of equipping with all the necessary technical devices - filters, heating and others

Having a great desire and using imagination and materials at hand, you can easily build a pool on the site with your own hands.

Now on the Internet you can easily find a lot of examples of "man-made" pools.

Moreover, these are not only shallow-water "paddling pools" for children, but also quite spacious pools designed for several adults.

Homemade pool from a large car tire:

Homemade dug swimming pool from awning fabric:

Homemade straw block pool:

Homemade concrete pool using plastic bottles:

Homemade pool made of wood:

The roof for the pool can also be made with your own hands.

for example polycarbonate (greenhouse frame) or conventional synthetic mesh:

Or maybe you bought a plot with an old, neglected pool already on it and are not very happy about such a "gift"?

So they are in vain not happy, look what can come out of an abandoned pool, if you put in a little effort.

This is how the old pool, restored by our own hands, looks now:

This is how it looked before and during the reconstruction process:

Do you have a pool on the property? Great, you can be glad for your leisure time - on any warm day, a reservoir is at your side, which means you can always refresh yourself! However, the pool, whatever one may say, is not a natural body of water created by nature for centuries. And in it, alas, something can break sooner or later. If you have such a situation, it does not matter, in this article we will tell you about the features of repairing swimming pools of various designs.

Of course, the inflatable structure is limited in many ways. But which pool is the easiest to install, the easiest to maintain and the most affordable? Inflatable, of course. They are small and large, deep and not very deep. In general, a good inflatable pool in terms of its internal volume may not be inferior to, for example, a stationary one. But its most important plus is that it can be easily transferred to a new place. After all, it is inflatable, which means that it is enough to drain the water from it, release the air, roll it up, and even the largest pool quietly moves to a new site with the forces of one or two people. And there, if the platform is flat, it unfolds, inflates and refills with water in just one or two hours.

But everything would be simple if it were not for this “if the site is flat”. The fact is that the inflatable pool does not have its own rigid frame. It, being inflatable, becomes sufficiently stable in terms of its geometry only when it is fully filled with water. When it is already installed and inflated, but not yet filled, it easily bends in all directions. And of course, if the base for the pool is not even horizontally, when pouring water, it begins to tilt in the direction where the angle is lower than other corners. Therefore, the installation of the pool always requires leveling the site.

It is also optimal to cement the site or at least lay plywood, boards or just PVC film under the bottom of the pool. After all, an inflatable pool does not have its own hard bottom, its material is thin and fragile, which means that any knot forgotten on the site under the pool, and just a sharp pebble, can simply pierce it when filling the pool. Most of the breakdowns of inflatable pools are connected with this.

The technology is very clear to any bicycle owner. After all, the basis of an inflatable pool is, as a rule, PVC, that is, a very easily glued material. First, find the place of the gap. To do this, inflate the pool and listen to where the air comes out with a whistle. The place of the gap is outlined along the contour with a marker or felt-tip pen. After that, it remains to put the rivet. There are only two rivet options.

The first is a simple external patch. It is used when the size of the hole is small, no more than a few centimeters in cross section. In this case, the edges of the hole are cleaned with sandpaper, degreased with kerosene, gasoline, alcohol or solvent. Do the same with the patch - with the side that will be glued to the pool material. The patch is usually made of the same material as the walls of the inflatable pool. After that, a thin layer of glue is applied along the contour of the hole and on the cleaned side of the patch, let it dry for several minutes, then apply the patch and press the two layers to be glued together as much as possible. Then comes drying, and - you can reuse the pool. If it is glued correctly, in accordance with the technology described on the label of the glue used, such a patch will not "pass".

The second option is a complex patch stitching the hole. This method is used when the size of the hole does not allow it to be sealed with one small patch.In this case, a number of nuances are added to the repair technology. First, the hole is sewn with any simple stitch with a strong thread. The seams are carefully coated with glue. This is followed by a patch installation similar to the first technology.

A fairly popular option for a pool, especially recently, is a frame structure. It is a “skin” made of durable fabric material stretched over a frame made of metal or polymer supports.

Usually, PVC cloth is used as the material for the skin, which is sealed and durable material. Handled correctly, it can last for years, but it is just as prone to cuts and tears as inflatable pool material. Accordingly, the repair of frame pools is carried out using the same technology. A patch is applied to the place of the gap - either a simple one, or with a hole stitching up. It is very important to use a suitable adhesive for this. For example, the glue "moment", known to every of our compatriots, is also suitable here, but not any - only those modifications, the instructions for which indicate the applicability for gluing PVC.

If the frame pool is damaged more seriously, for example, it has a broken support post, then self-repair of such a breakdown is hardly advisable. It's easier to contact the company that sold you the pool. Surely they have spare parts for just such a case.

Unlike inflatable and frame pools, stationary pools are a serious engineering structure. Accordingly, there can be much more breakdown options here. They usually come down to two types.

The first, and most common, is a breakdown of the drainage system. Such a system includes several elements - a water supply, a pump for pumping out water and a filtration system. Failure of one of the systems or its clogging leads to the fact that the water stops regularly circulating in the pool. And this entails the appearance of algae and water decay, that is, it is no longer worth using such a pool. It is optimal to involve experienced specialists in repairing these elements.

The second type of breakdown is associated with a violation of the tightness of the walls and bottom of the pool. Either the tiles are cracked, or the seams between the tiles are leaking, as a result of which water from the pool is constantly leaving. And in this case, of course, it is better to involve professionals.

However, if your pool is broken, and you are going to carry out repairs with your own hands, first of all, drain the pool bowl by draining all the water from it. Next, you need to decide what exactly the breakdown consists of. If this is a blockage, then the actions here are the same as when clearing blockages in the sewer. If pumping or filtering equipment breaks down, replace it. If the bowl leaks, use a building mixture similar to the one used for laying the bowl to restore tightness.

Rest at the cottage brings maximum pleasure if a swimming pool is installed on the site. During operation or due to mistakes made during installation, various breakdowns may appear. It is possible to repair some of them with your own hands, while saving a lot of money.

The most common breakdowns include:

• burnout of the backlight (searchlight);

• insufficient air conditioning.

If we are talking about the failure of hydraulics, then it is recommended to involve specialists in the repair work. To fix such a malfunction, you will need deeper knowledge and equipment, which a common man in the street does not have.

The bowl repair technology is simple, everyone can master. You should start work by inspecting the surface. It is worth conducting an audit carefully so as not to miss minor deformations.

Before eliminating the detected flaws, you need to determine the cause of the breakdown in order to avoid repeated damage.

Among the main provoking factors:

• incorrectly laid waterproofing, low-quality waterproofing film;

• poor preparation of the object for wintering;

• lack of an insulating layer or insufficient thickness of the heat insulator;

• mistakes made when laying communications.

To prepare the pool for the warm season, the following amount of work should be done:

• clean minor damage from finishing and seal cracks with a special putty;

• treat with waterproofing material;

• apply a layer of liquid glass to all surfaces of the bowl;

• after drying the walls, treat with a primer or sealant;

• lay tiles or mosaics.

Concrete matures for at least 28 days. During this time, it is necessary to moisten the surface to prevent the formation of cracks. It is also worth creating protection from direct sunlight on the walls of the bowl.

If strong destruction of the concrete bowl is revealed, it is recommended to make a secondary concrete pouring. To do this, the entire surface is cleaned of wobbly elements, treated with soil, after which the formwork is created.

The concrete layer must be at least 5 cm. Further work includes treatment with waterproofing, liquid glass and finishing material, if any.

The parameters of the concrete used:

To prepare one cube of concrete solution, you need to take 600 kg of cement, 150 kg of medium-fraction sand (cleared of debris), 700-900 grams of a ton of fiberglass, 1 kg of plasticizer and water.

If the destruction has touched the reinforcing layer of the bowl, then a major overhaul will be required, providing for the installation of new reinforcement, pouring concrete, processing (with waterproofing material and liquid glass), as well as finishing.

Do not try to reanimate dilapidated structures that leak from all sides. It is easier to dismantle and build a new pool. The collapsing bowls have communications in disrepair, so partial repairs will turn out to be a waste of time.

Slow drainage of water is obtained as a result of non-observance of the rules for arranging water supply lines. This may be an insufficient slope of the line when laying sewage drains, the use of low-quality metal pipes, which begin to leak and silt during the heat process. Even when using plastic pipes, there is a reality of leakage if the connections are bypassed.

If a complete replacement of the pipeline is planned, it is recommended to use polypropylene pipes. Alternatively, choose a high quality PVC-U, LESSO pipe.

The product compares favorably with analogues in the following advantages:

• simple installation with connecting elements of the same brand;

When building a concrete pool, all the stages and nuances must be taken into account, otherwise the life of the pool is sharply reduced. And after the winter period, you unexpectedly find leaks, poor thermal insulation and thermoregulation, deformation of the pool bowl, detachment from the inner surface of finishing materials, and so on. After 6-7 years, one way or another, microcracks may appear in the bowl of the concrete pool and repairs are simply necessary.

Need a concrete pool renovation? Find out how best to repair a concrete pool yourself.

By the end of the swimming season, it was already noticeable how the water was leaking and the volumes were getting smaller and smaller. The reasons may be:

Poor waterproofing,
Bad preservation for the winter,
Poor insulation,
Incorrect installation of embedded materials: pipes, nozzles, skimmers, etc.

To prepare a concrete pool for the summer season, you need to:

Putty.
Treat with waterproofing.
Treat the walls with liquid glass.
Treat with a primer - a moment or any other sealant.
Close with tiles.
Allow to dry.
Put the mosaic down.

IMPORTANT! Concrete gains its grade strength in 28 days. During this period, it must be moisturized and protected from direct sunlight.

We iron the tiles with a roller so that the gaps between them are as small as possible.After the concrete dries up, we fill it with sealants - any sealants that penetrate especially well not only into the cracks, but also into the pores of materials. The tile must fit snugly against the walls, so you must constantly control it at a right angle so that there are no distortions or detachments from the walls of the concrete pool.

When the bottom of the pool is dry, you can start processing and repairing the walls of the concrete bowl:

Remove all unnecessary layers with a trowel.
We will plaster again.
Let it dry.
We saturate the walls with liquid glass or other sealants. Better to smear with two or even three coats.
Rub the seams thoroughly.
Allow to dry.
Paint over with acrylic or rubber paint.

If the concrete bowl is badly destroyed, and the concrete just falls in pieces, then it is difficult to talk about some kind of cosmetic repair, it is better to pour concrete at least in those places that are most susceptible to destruction.

Use concrete that best meets the criteria:

Water resistance.
Frost resistance
Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
Immunity to external influences.

ADVICE! To ensure the pool bottom is of high strength, it is recommended to use special vibration devices when pouring the mortar. This allows for a better compaction of the mixture. After that, the solution should harden and stand for 7-10 days.

Experts advise using concrete of the M350 - M400 brand. The frost resistance index is F200, and the water resistance index is W6. For greater reliability, it is better to use heavy types of concrete with plasticizers and hydrophobic additives. If you prepare concrete with your own hands, then for one cubic meter you need to use: 600 kg of 400 grade cement; one and a half centners of medium granulation sand - without excess debris and foreign objects, 0.8 tons of fiber; one kg of plasticizer. The ratio with water is 0.3.

The repair of a concrete pool with large destruction requires approximately the same technology as its construction.

We remove finishing materials.
We remove all layers that leave in layers.
We remove sections of the walls that have completely collapsed or in the process of disintegration.
We install the formwork.
We put a reinforcing wall.
We begin to pour concrete - 20 cm each.
When concreting the walls, we leave holes for pipes of the water supply system, sewage system.
When the concrete sets, we remove the formwork and wipe the walls with a mixture of water and concrete - for the best effect of high-quality solidification.
We choose a new finishing material for your reservoir (if the old one can be used, then we re-finish the walls with old building materials):

Tile.
Polymeric materials.
Composite materials.
Hydrofilm.

ADVICE! If the pool is being built or renovated on hot summer days, it is recommended to wet the concrete with water daily. This will eliminate cracking of the structure.

Many people install a concrete box practically on the ground, or by slightly digging it into the ground. Then the technology of repairing a concrete pool is much easier - especially from the outside. If a foundation pit has to be dug out in order to carry out external repair work, then everything is in front of your eyes. There are many repair options:

Secondary concreting.
Putty.
Coating with sealants, rubber or acrylic paints.
Spraying with liquid glass or other absorbent sealants.

If the damage touches the frame bowl inside the concrete structure, then you need:

New fittings.
New finishing materials.
Sealants by spraying or coating.

If whole pieces of a concrete bowl have fallen off, then we build the production process like the construction of a new concrete pool:

We strengthen the frame.
We erect longitudinal and transverse crossbeams.
We put the formwork.
We install the reinforcement mesh.
We pour concrete.
Let it dry.
We wipe it with concrete mortar.

In order to repair a concrete pool as rarely as possible, it is necessary to fulfill a number of conditions for its care and operation:

Each pool must have a roof:

Pavilion.
Retractable.
Flat.
Cup-shaped.

It is advisable to make the roof of the pool from materials that are resistant to frost and temperature changes - polypropylene. A more economical option is a flat stainless steel lid. Just buy a sheet of the right size and periodically close the pool in the summer - from debris and constantly - in the off-season and winter.

Perform all installation work correctly during construction.
In accordance with the project documentation, connect the water and make the connection to the drain.
Preserve your pool properly in the fall.
Clean the pool in the summer - at least once a month.
Monitor the correct operation of nozzles, skimmer, water pump, filters, drain, etc.
In the event of any incomprehensible defects, contact a specialist.

Even the correct operation of the pool does not exclude the possibility of leakage. Any container with water becomes unusable completely, or a local leak begins. In such a situation, it is advisable to call a pool repairman, but it is cheaper and faster to repair the tank yourself. Let's consider leaks of the main types of pools and ways to eliminate them.

If there is a leak in the pool, the cause must be found.

There is a possibility that the water level will drop as a result of evaporation. Make sure this factor does not apply to your situation.

Conduct this experiment: fill the tank at 95% and put a vessel with water in it.
Fill the container to the same mark as in the pool and mark the water level with a marker.
Leave the pool at rest for one day and do not use it.
Check in a day. If the indicators have decreased by the same level, there is no leakage, but water simply evaporates.

Ditch the piping problem.

To do this, take measurements of the water column throughout the day with the pump turned off and running.
When the liquid disappears at a faster rate with the filters running, then there is a problem with the water supply. With equal leaks in both cases, start looking for a hole.

How to find the hole? When looking for a leak, it is rational to use a coloring pigment. A similar drug is used to test swimming pools and hydraulic systems. This component leaves a mark where there is water leakage.

A leaking bowl is a problematic place to find a leak. The first step when looking for a leak is to check the drain valve. Often, the valve simply wears out, which leads to the appearance of microcracks.
If there is a hole in the bottom of the pool, the search starts from the places where the dirt accumulates. This is due to the small size of the hole through which water passes, but sludge does not.

For high-quality repair work, it is necessary to completely drain the water from the pool

An artificial rubber pond is a popular way to relax. Such a capacity is suitable for small summer cottages, apartments, outdoor recreation. But it is this reservoir that is more exposed to the environment than the others - the slightest prick from a sharp object leads to a hole in the case.

In such situations, the question arises: how to seal the inflatable pool? There are a couple of options:

A number of manufacturers produce a factory repair kit complete with a pool. Such a set includes several patches with an adhesive layer, which are simple enough to apply to the damaged area. There are options with separate patches and glue packaging. If the repair kit was not sold with the pool, go to a store that specializes in air mattresses and containers. The seller will tell you how to glue the pool, what material to use for the patch, and select pool glue.

If there is no inflatable item store nearby, contact a car service or auto parts store.There you can easily purchase a repair kit for rubber tubes of cars.

If it is impossible to buy ready-made patches, you can glue the pool with improvised means. The patch is made from parts of old rubber rings, mattresses, toys. The only thing you have to buy in the store is waterproof glue. But for simple designs, "moment", "505" and "Glue-second" are suitable.

The material for the patch should be selected according to the type of pool material. In the manufacture of inflatable containers, vinyl, polystyrene and rubberized fabric are used. Consider this when choosing a material for sealing leaks.

During the day, children should not be allowed to the pool after repairs

After renovation, children cannot be allowed into the pool throughout the day. This will allow the glue to adhere well, which will eliminate the likelihood of an allergic reaction in the child. If at the time of repairing the leak you are in the country, leave the tank outside for ventilation.

Stick to the correct DIY repair sequence:

Find the leak. To do this, smear the wall with soap in a place where you can hear the noise of air coming down. A soap bubble will begin to appear at the flow point.
Degrease the surface with solvent or alcohol.
Apply the adhesive to the patch, covering the entire surface of the patch. Apply the material with adhesive to the puncture site and press firmly (place under the press).
Check the quality of your work before using it.

Polyvinyl chloride is a mixture of chemical elements: chlorine, carbon and hydrogen. This material, obtained by artificial means, has found wide application in industry. By structure, soft, semi-soft and hard materials are distinguished. Depending on this criterion, a patch (pvc film) is also selected. You will have to choose the right glue, because not all glue mixtures are capable of gluing pvc. You need to glue it with a highly elastic adhesive with a high level of adhesion, and it must be moisture resistant. Characteristics of quality glue:

resistance to temperature extremes;
susceptibility to sunlight;
the ability to endure mechanical stress.

If you decide to glue your pvc pool, start by cleaning the surface. Abrasive paper is suitable for this process. Then the cleaned area is degreased. The glue is applied to one of the surfaces (patch or pool), pressed for a couple of minutes and allowed to stand for a day.

Even large holes must be reanimated. The correct selection of a repair kit will allow you to glue your pool with your own hands.

You can also glue small cracks with special sealants. Cans with a similar adhesive mixture are sold in specialized stores.
Serious damage will have to tinker with. You will need adhesive and film material to seal the hole. Such a set is in shops selling frame pools.
On a note. There is a special kit that allows you to repair the tank without draining the water. But they are used exclusively in cases where you know the location of the hole. The waterproof patch will last a long time if applied correctly, but it is best to match the inner waterproof patch with the outer dry patch.
People who specialize in the repair of frame ponds are advised to use the following materials for repair:

The Moment rubber glue is suitable for gluing rubber elements. The result of gluing is a waterproof seam that has the necessary strength and elasticity. A cheap and quick assistant in home repairs.
Plumbing sealants can help fill in a small gap or hole. This type of material is UV resistant and does not react with water.
The use of roofing bitumen-aluminum tape allows you to keep the pool from leaks for a long time. Outwardly, it resembles a foil with a base for gluing.
The seams are welded using an industrial hair dryer. Heating to high temperatures will allow the two sides of the break to bond tightly.

An industrial hair dryer is required for welding seams.

In this situation, it is customary to use the services of specialists, because the facing material of such structures is films and tiles. But if you have a desire to eliminate the leak with your own hands, remember a number of rules:

Carry out a thorough inspection of the bowl. Any peels, cracks or dents can cause leaks.
When the cause of the leak is found, remove the veneer. If the finishing material is tile, you need to remove at least four pieces. This will help inspect the surface for dampness. The film is dismantled in a different way - a place is cut out in a radius of 20-30 cm around the hole or a whole sheet of material is removed.
The bedding near the leak will be damp. This involves the complete dismantling of the waterproofing material and plaster.
If cracked, use a small pore sealant.
Reapply layers of waterproofing and plaster to level the surface.
After the mortar has completely dried, proceed with laying a new facing layer.

Don't forget about tightness. The docking of the old and new lining ball must be insulated with high quality. This will protect the results of your work from "recurrence" of holes.

More than half of the leaks are due to the fault of the owners. Incorrect operation and violations of safety rules lead to holes, the repair of which takes time. Avoid a number of actions that lead to the integrity of the pond bowl:

do not use sharp objects in and around the pool, because a light touch with a knife or needle tip breaks the coating of the walls or bottom of the tank;
try to keep pets away from the pool, their teeth and claws can cut the lining of the tank; it is undesirable to sit on the walls of frame ponds - the material of the walls cracks under the weight of a person, and microcracks
lead to leaks;
you cannot push off strongly from the walls of the tank, because a sharp pressure at one point leads to dents and cracks.

Proper use will allow the pool to serve its owners for a long time.

Video (click to play).