Do-it-yourself Audi 80 bendix repair

In this video, I showed how to restore the Audi 80 starter bendix.

That's right, the original, Bosch grade, I have the same Vasily fellow. the canopy is secured from poles on bolts and painted

Vasily I have one question so far: is it possible to replace the starter brush block without removing the starter itself

Thanks for the hint. I will check

just replaced the bendix yesterday. with the old I will try to carry out such a procedure. thanks for the vidos

I just threw out all the floating plastic, then washed and put the rollers with springs without it. Collected, everything works perfectly. The hardest part is to roll back. Thanks for the restoration idea.

VASILY IS SPINNING BY ME THE STARTER CHANGED THE BENDIX IT'S NOT BETTER. WHAT CAN I DO?

Damn. Late saw the video. Already bought the whole starter. Chinese WXQP. What do you think?

Good afternoon, Vasily, such a question should bendix be lubricated when to assemble or is it still not necessary? in the hand, it does not scroll, but on the blow, it turns. since it works with a flywheel, so it makes no sense to check it in your hand.

I decided to replace the bendix, because I got tired of hitting the starter with a hammer every morning before starting the car, or even worse to climb under the car and lock it with a key. Without these tricks, the starter would simply idle.

Initially, I planned to come to work, drive the car onto a lift, remove the starter and take it for repair. But it turned out that one guy at work had an unnecessary starter, and he gave me the bendix from this very starter, for which many thanks to him.

In general, the very process of removing the starter and replacing the bendix:

1. Remove the terminals from the battery to avoid short circuits.
2. We raise the car on a lift (if there is no lift, the pit is fine), unscrew the nut by 13, securing the wires to the retractor relay and remove the clamp.

Updated: 2017-03-20

When repairing a starter on an Audi 80, car owners often stumble upon the fact that brushes that have worn out have led to a breakdown. Worn, stuck, or collapsed. But this is just one of the options that can be a reason for car repair.

The original starter is made in Germany, a reliable and high quality device. In the course of the correct operation of the Audi 80, the repair of the starter will not be necessary at all soon.

Basically, breakdowns appear sequentially, increasing in number. When the first symptoms of malfunctions are detected and the repair of the Audi 80 starter is carried out on time, it helps to prevent a complete replacement of the unit and guarantees subsequent stable service.

Prophylaxis is necessary in subsequent cases:

• The starter motor does not start when the ignition key is turned
• The device works, but the crankshaft rotates slowly, unable to get the required speed
• During start-up, the gear meshes with the flywheel. In such a situation, immediate repair is needed for the starter. We disassemble and replace unusable items.
• The device works, but the shaft itself is in its original position (does not rotate)
• The device rotates in conjunction with the flywheel when the engine is running.

Basically, it is necessary to repair the starter when the parts have served their time or there is no necessary isolation of the device from the external environment:

• Exposure to subzero temperatures
• Influence of a variety of fluids
• Ingress of dust or dirt.

As a result, the insulation in the starting device is destroyed, which can lead to a breakdown of the device drive.

First of all, it is necessary to examine the wires that run from the battery to the starter, after the wiring from the ignition switch to the relay, it may have broken. It is worth trying to rearrange places with a similar relay or install a new one, if available. If the check shows that the wiring and relay are in good order, it is necessary to remove the starter and carry out diagnostics.

To remove the starter, you must immediately remove the mass from the battery, then disconnect the wiring from the starting device. Unscrew the two mounting bolts using a size 19 head.

Moving on to diagnosing and repairing the autostarter:

1. No clicks or one click. Bendix did not go out on the rod into the starter bell or went out and immediately jumps back. The shaft does not spin at all, or it cranks for a moment. The reason may be a burnt out winding of the solenoid relay.
2. In the case when, nevertheless, the shaft rotates, this means a breakdown of the HRV. The cost of this relay is around 500 rubles and you can change it yourself within 10 minutes. To do this, you need to unscrew the three screws holding the relays, the nut of the power cable that leads to the middle of the starting device. We take out the old relay with the subsequent installation of the purchased serviceable one. We carry out the installation backwards. After assembly, it is necessary to check the operability: short the contact on the solenoid relay and the power contact. We install the starter housing to ground. A click should occur. The Bendix will pop out to the retaining ring. The shaft will start to rotate quickly and continuously.
3. HRV makes clicks, the motor does not work. In this case, you cannot do without disassembling the starter. This problem is in two cases:
   • Brushes in the brush assembly are burnt or worn out. Price around 500 r.
   • The anchor is out of order. The cost is slightly less than the price of the launcher itself.

Correct repair of the starter on the Audi 80. In parallel, the replacement of brushes and bushings is carried out, which guarantees a long service life of the device.

The main mechanism of the engine starting system is the starter. It introduces a powerful DC electric motor. At the moment the ignition key is turned from the battery, current flows to the starter windings and starts it. The starter turns the crankshaft and the car starts up. The reasons why the starter does not work on the Audi 80 can be divided into 2 groups:

• the traction relay is faulty or the presence of a defect in the wires;
• the electric motor itself is faulty.

To eliminate the cause no. 1, it is necessary to check the presence of voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay. If there is no voltage when the starter is turned on, this indicates a damage to the electrical circuit, and if it is present, then a malfunction of the starter or traction relay. If a click of the traction relay is heard, it means that the starter is out of order or the contacts burn out, and if the click is not heard, it means that there is an open circuit or closes it to ground.

To conclude about the operation of the Audi 80 starter, that is, to come to the second group of reasons, you should check how the starter motor works when voltage is briefly applied to the traction relay contact from the engine side. When the electric motor is running, the cause of the starter malfunction must be looked for in the traction relay.

There are situations when the starter turns slowly and the engine does not start. The reasons for such a case may be: battery discharge, too thick oil in the engine lubrication system, graphite brushes are not pressed against the collector, wear of the starter bearings.

To eliminate the listed causes, change the oil, charge the battery, check or replace worn parts and adjust the distance between the manifold and the graphite brushes.

If “starting the engine” continues when you release the ignition key, turn it off immediately and disconnect the battery. Only then remove the sticky contacts.

If you decide not to spend money on starter repair, but prefer it, then you need to know such data of your car as engine size, year of manufacture of the car (engine), engine type (gasoline, diesel, injection / non-injection).

Regardless of which brand of car you own, sooner or later you will have to face repair work. Car owners are divided into two categories, those who do the repair themselves, and those who prefer to contact a specialized auto repair shop. Considering the elimination of various problems in the operation of transport, for example, repairing the Audi 80 starter, there is a corresponding approach. It is necessary to understand the cause of the breakdown in order to further solve the problem.

Bolt wrench, as the starter is attached with two bolts (one at the bottom, one at the top). Screwdriver. Electric soldering iron. What details you need to know when repairing an Audi 80 starter so that all manipulations are beneficial: body, armature shaft, covers on the armature side and on the drive side, drive gear, traction relay. And if you do not have such knowledge, repair of an Audi 80 starter should be handed over to a specialist.

By contacting a car repair shop, you will save your time and nerves by receiving quality service. And you should not save, trying to carry out the repair yourself, because a miser pays twice. And maybe you harm the car even more, as a result, the breakdown will become even more global and will require large investments. Specialized equipment and tools will allow you to correctly diagnose the breakdown, and select the appropriate method for its elimination. The provided guarantee will give you confidence in the quality of the repair work performed.

1 - cover on the drive side
2 - drive gear
3 - anchor shaft
4 - frame
5 - cover from the side of the collector
6 - traction relay

1. Remove the nut of the lower contact bolt of the starter traction relay.

2. ... remove the washer and disconnect the stator winding lead-out lug.

3. Remove the two nuts securing the starter traction relay (one shown).

4. Remove the traction relay from the drive end cover.

5. Remove the traction relay armature from the drive end cover, disengaging it from the drive arm.

6. Remove the drive arm stop by prying it with a screwdriver.

7. Remove the two tie bolts and.

8. ... remove the shroud from the manifold side cover.

9. Remove the casing gasket.

10. Remove the brush springs from the brush holder.

11. Remove the lock washer from the shaft of the starter armature and.

13. Separate the starter housing and the manifold side cover (if you cannot do this by hand, use a screwdriver).

14. Remove the insulated brushes from the brush holder and.

15. ... remove the starter cover from the manifold side.

16. Remove the spacer washer from the armature shaft.

17. Remove the cotter pin securing the axis of the starter drive lever and.

18. ... remove the axle from the drive end cover.

19. Remove the drive end cover.

20. Remove the starter drive lever.

21. Remove the starter armature from the housing.

22. Slide the stop ring off the retaining ring.

23. Remove the circlip and stop ring from the armature shaft.

24. Remove the starter drive clutch assembly from the armature shaft.

25. Remove the spring from the traction relay.

26. Remove the insulating bracket to replace the brushes.

27. ... heat the junction of the insulated brushes with the stator lead with a soldering iron and, using a screwdriver, open the bend of the stator lead.

28. ... remove the insulated brushes.

29. Remove the screws securing the bar ends of the non-insulated brushes and remove the brushes from the manifold side cover.

30. Check the condition of the stator winding. To do this, turn on the test lamp (rated for a voltage of 220 V) into an alternating current with a voltage of 220 V and connect one wire to one of the terminals of the stator winding, the other - short to the case. If the lamp is on, the winding insulation is damaged. Replace winding or stator. Also check the other stator winding. Be careful when testing with 220V. Do not touch live parts of the stator with your hands.

31. Inspect the armature shaft bearing surfaces. If you find a yellow coating from the bearings on the armature shaft, remove it with a fine sandpaper. There should be no damage on the surface of the shaft splines (scoring, nicks, chipping of teeth and visible signs of wear).

32. Check the reliability of soldering the leads of the armature winding to the collector plates.

33. The starter cover gasket must not be damaged (breaks, cracks, etc.).

34. Check the starter drive by turning the gear (it should only rotate in one direction). If the drive parts are badly worn or damaged, replace the drive. If you find nicks on the lead-in part of the teeth, grind them with a fine-grained small-diameter wheel.

35. Check the condition of the traction relay armature spring. Replace the broken spring.

36. The starter pinch bolts must not have severe damage to the threads and heads.

37. Check the condition of the starter cover on the drive end. Cracks are not allowed.

38. Inspect the surface of the traction relay armature. Deep risks and seizures are not allowed. the armature should move in the traction relay easily, without jamming.

39. The starter lever forks must not be bent.

40. Check the condition of the starter brushes by measuring their height. It must be at least 12 mm.

41. Check the closure of the traction relay contact bolts with the plate. To do this, connect an ohmmeter to the contact bolts and push the rod of the traction relay (from the flange side). If the ohmmeter reads “infinity”, replace the traction relay.

42. Check the condition of the inner surface of the traction relay. Risks, bullies, etc. not allowed.

Assemble the starter in the reverse order to disassembly, taking into account the following features.

43. Clean the surface of the starter armature manifold.

44. Lubricate the splined part of the armature shaft with engine oil.

45. ... manifold-side cover sleeve bearing and.

46.... starter drive sliding surface.

47. Press in the stop ring after installing the stop ring on the armature shaft.

48. Lubricate the drive ring of the starter drive with Litol-24 grease.

And since I already wrote the car earlier, I have Audi 80 86 year of release... with brand engine DS 1.8L 90 HP... and to be honest, this was the first time when the machine scared me a little, although in fact nothing terrible happened.

And so the starter refused, it just stopped working and that's it. it was quite expensive to go broke to buy a new one because it costs 6000r so I took it off the car. it is attached to the engine from the bottom by three bolts. to crawl up to him, I jacked up the car from both sides from the front and climbed under it.

Having brought the starter home, I tried to disassemble it, it turned out to be not so easy. the marking indicated the release date of the starter in 1985, most likely he had never been removed or changed in this car. dirt and rust on it was like plaster on a schoolgirl at graduation. After cleaning it, I saw that some nuts were stuck. Poured them with WD-40 then vinegar. They just didn’t want to loosen up. In the end, I unscrewed the studs screwed into the inside of the starter housing and not the nuts. But all the same it turned out to be disassembled. from the tool I needed a set of open-end wrenches, an impact screwdriver, a set of tubular wrenches and a set of small heads.

The inside of the starter was not much cleaner than the outside. After I cleaned it and examined it, it became clear that the matter was not in the windings, but in the starter brushes. they simply rusted in their grooves and therefore did not press against the starter rotor (while they did not wear out their resource even by 50%).

Having cleaned them and processed, if possible, all the spare parts with zinc, I proceeded to the assembly. Here a problem arose since the brushes are on springs and it was very inconvenient to put them on the starter rotor. I got out of the situation very simply took the threads and pulled each of the brushes with them in its groove and then calmly put them in place and cut the threads.I also had to plummet and re-solder the mass clamp on the starter, because it got disheveled during the work and when I unscrewed it it came off. after assembly, I painted the starter from a spray can that would rust less.

the starter works great to this day. The repair cost me a can of paint and a can of zincar that's about 200 rubles.

In the starter, an important value is given to the bendix, in the event of a breakdown of which it will not be possible to start the engine. And, if a characteristic metallic sound is heard at start-up, this indicates the immediate replacement of this part.

Qualified craftsmen are not even recommended to try to repair the bendix; according to them, it is much more expedient to change the old worn-out part with a new bendix. Such timely replacement of the bendix, and not its repair, will prevent the imbalance of the internal parts with the prospect of increased wear of the starter engine.

Bendix is ​​also called a freewheel clutch, which refers to the working element located in the starter of the car. Torque is transmitted by gear from the starter motor to the flywheel of the internal combustion engine. But the gear cannot be in long-term engagement with the flywheel, since the starter must take a short time to work, after which it must cool down. And in order to insure the starter engine against the effects of the internal combustion engine, the bendix is ​​intended.

Even with a wealth of experience, it is difficult for the foreman to deal with malfunctions in the starter on the fly.

After all, the reason for replacing the bendix can be not only the worn teeth of the bendix gear, it can also be the worn bushings on which the starter shaft is mounted, and maybe a common reason is the deterioration of the retractor relay. So it takes experience to find the cause of this tainted part. Some masters carry out diagnostics on special stands in several loads:

And for someone it is enough to move his hand to understand the need to replace the bendix.

Replacing the bendix yourself is not as easy as it seems at first glance. To change it even on the simplest domestic car, you will need to remove the starter, and this work can be accompanied by a number of difficult moments. Still, you can try to replace it yourself. And so what needs to be done:

From a theoretical point of view, there are no problems to change the bendix, but from a practical point of view, it is somewhat cumbersome and difficult, but quite doable.

But what about the repair of the bendix? In principle, even, according to the opinions of professionals, conversations about the repair of this part should not even arise.

This is due to the fact that modern machines have almost the same wear resistance of parts located in a single unit. This means that you can be sure that if one gear is worn out, then after it, almost immediately, the next one will deteriorate, and so on. Therefore, it is much more practical to completely change the bendix, besides, the cost of the part itself is low.

So, to change the bendix, you should do:

• Removing the starter;
• Parsing the starter;
• Replacing the old bendix with a new part;
• Assemble the starter in reverse order.

When starting work on replacing the bendix, it is advisable to completely remove the battery, since even a short circuit can lead to serious consequences. If you have any questions or doubts, you should seek professional advice.