DIY gas pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gas pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We loosen the tightening of the clamp and remove the supply hose from the fitting.

Use the “14” wrench to unscrew the union and disconnect the fuel pump outlet pipe.

Unscrew the two bolts with the “12” head with an extension.

... and remove the fuel pump.

A gasket is installed between the pump and the cylinder block.

We unscrew 8 screws around the perimeter of the pump and, remembering the position.

Pressing on the center of the diaphragm, turn it through an angle of 90 ° and remove the diaphragm together with the stem and spring.

... and remove the plastic partition with valves and a sealing gasket.

Carefully sink the valve leg with a screwdriver.

... remove the valve from the back of the partition.

Using the “17” wrench, unscrew the fitting and remove the mesh filter from it.

We assemble the fuel pump in the reverse order.

We orient the pump cover according to the arrow indicating the direction of fuel movement.

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  • Is it worth undertaking an independent repair of an electric fuel pump?
  • 1. Why does the electric petrol pump fail?
  • 2. Technology for repairing an electric fuel pump.
  • 3. What you need to repair an electric petrol pump.

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All fuel injection systems, which in most cases are installed on modern automobile internal combustion engines, will be equipped with a fuel pump device driven by an electric DC motor. The electric fuel pump device can be located directly outside the fuel tank, but next to it under the bottom of the body, or in the fuel tank itself, where, in this case, it will be immersed in gasoline.

The electric fuel pump device is designed to pump fuel directly into the injector from the gas tank. Such a device will provide fuel to the injectors under the influence of a certain pressure. All electric fuel pumps are installed on vehicles that are equipped with electronic fuel injection into the system.

Video (click to play).

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In its modern form, there are two types of electric fuel pump: suspended and submerged. The main difference between the two devices will only be the presence of a fuel filter on the tip of the device, which will have a different possible shape. The part is quite reliable, although breakdowns will not be very rare.

So, The main reasons for failure for modern injection systems of a gasoline pump device are as follows: idling or emptying the vehicle's fuel tank. However, many car manufacturers have already stripped their creations of these shortcomings. Now, in the event that the fuel runs out, smart car electronics will spontaneously stop the operation and activation of the electric petrol pump, which will save it for many years of life.

Often, before its "death", the electric fuel pump device makes a lot of noise. It is important that the motorist does not miss this noise and makes the necessary replacement in time. This must be done in order not to resort to using a tug in the future.

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The basis of the electric petrol pump device is an electric motor. If the entire resource was focused only on him, the fuel pump would be enough for as much as 200,000 km.Nevertheless, the whole point is that the fuel pump device uses the fuel itself as a lubricant, which for this reason has a somewhat terrifying characteristic: it has many tiny particles that, in the course of time and the operation of the car, will grind off all the working elements of the pump. and he will begin to lose its working properties long before the electric motor device fails; in the event that the fuel filter device was very dirty, the situation will be aggravated by an order of magnitude more.

It is important to note that in most cases, the efficiency of the fuel pump device will be much higher than necessary, since the initial signs of severe wear can be determined in time in accordance with extraneous noise arising from nowhere. This will be possible only in our conditions, since already worn out mechanical pumping parts will begin to emit a sound.

Even in spite of the fact that the performance of such a pump is much higher than its operating parameters, one should not delay its repair. The thing is that when the internal combustion engine is started directly, the voltage of the on-board network will drop sharply, as a result of which the pump performance will decrease; it may be sufficient to run the engine, but may not be sufficient to start itself. As a result, you can get the electric petrol pump jammed, as a result of which the vehicle will finally become.

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Of course, the wear rate can be reduced by modern cleaning of the fuel system, regular replacement of the fuel filter. However, in winter periods, adversity can also arise, since if water is present in the fuel, it can freeze, which will short-circuit the armature winding. It can also cause the fuel pump to jam. The very wear of the fuel pump will be accompanied by a very interesting symptom: fuel consumption will decrease. Nevertheless, with this, the engine throttle response will decrease, and therefore there is nothing to rejoice here.

Initially, it is necessary to completely relieve the existing pressure in the fuel system. This is quite simple to do, since you just need to remove the fuel pump relay, start the internal combustion engine and wait until it stalls. Next, you need to remove the terminals from the battery itself, and remove the fuel module itself from the gas tank. A number of cases provide for a partial analysis of the cabin, since the hatch itself can be located directly under the sofa. The removed pump must be defectoscopied, and after this procedure, all the necessary repairs must be carried out.

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It is very common for the fuel pump to jam due to the fact that the protective coating that protects the inner surface of the bronze ring is simply erased. As a result, you can get the destruction of the ring itself, as a result of which it wedges. The problem in general will not be in the low quality of the spraying itself. The point is in the fuel, which was susceptible to the action of different chemical elements, and the problem can be solved only by changing the fuel. If this kind of breakdown occurs, then a new ring must be made, and its top layer must be cemented.
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In addition, it is necessary to replace the rollers, as they will also be triggered., and if only one ring is replaced, the operation of the fuel system and pump will be ineffective. Among other things, the electric motor of the electric fuel pump may also fail. In this case, the collector will fail or the brushes will wear out. If there is an opportunity to call at the service station, then it is better to rewind the anchor. If axles are produced, then they must be replaced with new ones with passport parameters. All broken and worn parts of the fuel module also need to be replaced with new ones.As a result, the fuel module will be assembled and installed back into the vehicle.

To be honest, the process of repairing the fuel pump will serve as an excellent reason for thorough cleaning of the car's fuel system, filters and gas tank, replacing all other consumable items.

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If you look at it, the electric fuel pump device cannot be repaired: so it was conceived by the manufacturers, if faults and malfunctions are identified, they will require total replacement. Nevertheless, the masters of automotive practice have shown that with a bright mind and caution when opening the aluminum case, all further procedures will be quite easy, and the gas pump device can be safely repaired, but using special expensive equipment.

From all of the above, the motorist can conclude that it is not enough to have only one desire and skill to carry out the necessary work. You need to have special equipment, which is quite expensive and does not always pay off. That is why motorists recommend, due to economy and budget, to use high-quality car services and workshops, since everything can be done there quickly and efficiently. In addition, it will also be much cheaper than purchasing the necessary equipment. Thus, the practice of automotive repair of an electronic fuel pump shows that such devices can still work for a very long period of time.

It turned out a bit long, but maybe my story will help someone solve a similar problem without stepping on the rake that I stepped on.

For the last year, signs of a dying gas pump began to appear in the car (several times when the ignition was turned on, the gas pump did not turn on).
Since I had not yet climbed into the fuel system (it was somehow scary to get involved with gasoline), for several months I did without any intervention at all - after a few minutes of waiting, the pump still began to work. In January, while visiting, I left the car in the parking lot and it did not start again. After that, I climbed to rummage through the forum. Armed with information on what to do, they took the car with the father-in-law to him by a car service on a tow truck. We checked all the places - the relay, the fuse, the voltage on the pump itself. The electrician immediately tried to put the block on the main relay - no results. The removed pump miraculously worked, put it back and changed the relay to a new one (the electrician said that most likely the relay was stuck). Somehow I didn't really like his conclusion - after all, at the very beginning he connected the block to a known working relay. But I did not argue - they are engaged in cars every day, they probably know better. Now I understand why - the main thing for them is to make the car start up faster, and not to scrupulously search for the cause of the malfunction (and this is already so in the blood that they even do the same to relatives).

The rest of the winter and the whole spring I left without any problems, and in May the same garbage started again once a week. Tapping the pump with a hammer helped. Thought about a new fuel pump. I didn't want to put on a domestic one, but a toad strangled to spend two thousand on a Boshevsky one. When the sound of the pump became floating (as if someone was changing the speed), I strangled the toad and decided to buy a new one. And then the father-in-law remembered that he had a spare on the balcony, never used.

They decided to change at the dacha. As it turned out, there is nothing difficult in replacing it. Since the car did not start for a day before the replacement, it was not even necessary to relieve the pressure in the fuel line after the pump. Only a glass leaked from the gas outlet. The inlet pipe was plugged with a conventional plug. Actually, this is the dumbest place when replacing. Each time the fuel pump was removed / installed, a portion of gas flowed into my sleeve on the inlet pipe.When removing the old fuel pump, the father-in-law found that the inlet pipe in the middle was cracked a little (because of this, it was periodically etched into the cabin with gasoline through the hole for the wires to the pump under the rear seat). The pipe was replaced. They put in a new pump. We turn on the ignition - silence. The spare pump behaved the same as the old one and did not turn on even when 12 volts were directly connected to it.

Nothing to do. Without touching the new pump, I decided to disassemble the old one and try to clean it, since I found a description of how to do this on the forum before replacing it. There was no description with me, and I didn’t remember it. The only thing left in my memory was that it was a real operation for me. Perhaps, domestic gas pumps may differ structurally (after all, three different manufacturers do it), but both the old and the new ones were of almost the same design.

1. Remove the retaining ring from the inlet end. I did not have special pliers, but they were perfectly replaced by platypuses with the ends of the jaws bent to the side.

2. Rotating along the axis back and forth, pull out the plastic pump cover.

3. Taking platypuses by the central cylindrical ledge (in the photo they are straight, but disassembled by others with bent ends - they are much more convenient) and resting their ends against the protrusions on the inner edges, also swinging along the axis and pulling outward, remove the pump itself - the most difficult thing has been done.

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4. We remove the stator cup together with the rotor. We take out the rotor from the glass.

That's all - the pump has been disassembled. After inspection, it turned out that the brushes and copper on the contacts were almost not worn out.

And there are not so many metal filings that interfere with rotation. But the working part of the pump could hardly turn. They blew it with a bag. We cleaned the stator from metal filings. Assembled in the reverse order, connected the power. The pump started up with a steady sound. We removed the spare pump and repeated the cleaning operation. The spare pump worked quieter (apparently it meant that it had never been used, and after several years of lying in the closet, its moving parts probably simply dried out to each other). After installing a spare pump, it started working without any problems, and on the way back, the behavior of the car noticeably changed for the better - it literally came to life.

What conclusions did I draw from all this:
- even while being repaired by a familiar auto mechanic, it never interferes with being interested in the progress of work, what is being done and why and not hesitating to express your opinion if the observed actions are not friendly with logic (of course, it is better to find a mechanic with whom you do not have to do this, but there is not always such opportunity);
- before carrying out the repair, it will not hurt to stock up on small things, which, when removed / installed, may be covered or be defective - clamps, pipes, etc.);
before installation, if possible, check the replaced units;
before self-repair, read on the forum how others solved a similar problem;

Engine power system repair car GAZ-53-12

Dismantling the fuel pump car GAZ-53-12

Unscrew the two screws 11 (see Fig. 22) securing the cover and carefully remove the cover, rubber gasket 13 and the pump strainer 10.

Unscrew the eight screws securing the pump head 8 to the housing 22 and carefully remove the head and release the diaphragm 6.

If necessary, press out from the pump head two cages of suction valves and one discharge valve; remove the rubber valve, valve washer and spring from each cage.

It is not recommended to unscrew the fuel inlet and outlet connections unnecessarily from the pump.

The spring 18 is removed from the lever 19. Two threaded plugs are unscrewed from the housing and the axis of the pump drive lever is removed, the pump drive lever 19 is removed, pressing the diaphragm pull down with a finger.

Remove the diaphragm together with the rod, the spring and the rod seal from the pump housing.

The diaphragm is disassembled: the thrust nut is unscrewed, the upper cup and diaphragm blades, the lower cup, the sealing washer, the spring, the steel protective ring and the thrust seal are removed.

Unscrew the nut carefully, as the compressed diaphragm spring, when released, can throw parts out of the pump. Remove the axle sleeve from the lever.

Carefully remove the manual pump lever shaft together with the rubber sealing ring, releasing the lever spring.

Rice. 87. Diaphragm assembly tool:
1 - diaphragm; 2 - device

The VAZ 2106 automobile gasoline pump is an integral part of the vehicle's fuel system and plays an important role in the operation of the vehicle. Basically, on modifications of the VAZ 2106, 3 models of gas pumps are used: DAAZ, produced at the enterprise in Dmitrovograd; "Pekar", developed by a company from St. Petersburg and "Saratov". Over the years of production of passenger cars at the VAZ enterprise, the range of manufactured modifications has gradually changed with the transition in the equipment of cars from carburetor engines to injection engines with an increase in power and quality characteristics.

Below you can see what a DAAZ gas pump looks like:

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DAAZ

The PECAR gas pump looks like this:

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Baker

It is structured as follows:

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Fuel pump device

To determine the reason for the failure of the fuel pump, you can use several operations related to checking the functionality without removing it from the car.

The fuel pump does not supply fuel to the vehicle systems:

  1. We check the presence of fuel in the gas tank. It is recommended to operate the car with at least half the tank and with the obligatory use of the entire set of filters that reduce the effect of small particles on the fuel pump parts.
  2. We check the efficiency of the fuel filters, if necessary, we replace them with new ones.
  3. We purge and clean the piping system, removing deposits of small particles.

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Check fuel filters

The main reasons for the failure of the fuel pump can be:

  1. Diaphragm damage with leakage.
  2. Loss of spring stiffness and performance.
  3. Clogged valves due to accumulation of dirt.
  4. Loss of filter capacity due to accumulation of contaminants.
  5. Violation of the tightness of the pump circuit with leakage of gasoline and oil.
  6. Refusal in work due to the development of the resource of the pump components.

You can see how the DAAZ gas pump works in the following diagram:

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The internal structure of the fuel pump

To determine the performance of the pump, it is necessary to conduct its external inspection. The top cover must be installed without skewing and fit snugly against the body. The strainer must be installed level and ensure the tightness of the device, preventing leakage at the points of connection and fastening with bolts.

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DAAZ scheme

Next, you need to set the pusher to the operating position, for this, using the handle, the engine is turned by 1 revolution. The stem and eccentric will be positioned to allow manual fuel priming.

An efficient pump, when pumping, pumps gasoline without air. If a mixture of gasoline and air appears in the system, it is necessary to remove the pump and repair it with the elimination of defects. To repair the pump, you must purchase a repair kit, which includes all the necessary spare parts.

In the event of a malfunction of the fuel system, a smell of gasoline appears in the passenger compartment, the cause may be damage to the diaphragm of the fuel pump or stripped thread of fasteners. Fuel leakage is also possible due to incorrect fitting of the union.

The appearance of oily smudges on the bottom of the casing is usually caused by the failure of the lower diaphragm lobe or leakage along the mounting rod in the pump drive.

The diaphragm design consists of a stem, a plastic spacer and three blades.The upper petals supply fuel to the engine, while the lower petal cuts oil from the cylinder block, as well as from the ingress of gasoline in the event of a diaphragm failure. Together with the diaphragm, a return spring works, which also fails, which interrupts the fuel supply through the system (in automatic and manual modes). In some cases, it is possible that the rod of the "foot" of the drive may malfunction (due to displacement to the side), which contributes to the failure of the fuel pump.

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Fuel pump device

Sometimes situations arise when the pump works intermittently, which is usually associated with a failure of the spring.

If it is difficult to start the engine, a possible cause may be wear of the fuel pump valves. With prolonged use of the car, the valves wear out, which leads to failures when starting. After stopping the engine due to loss of tightness, the valves let fuel through and it flows into the gas tank, and in order to start the engine again, it takes much longer for the fuel pump to supply fuel to the carburetor.

When the valve plate is worn, the plate changes its position, as a result of which the pump stops working. To eliminate such a defect, the plates began to be equipped with a rod, which prevents its displacement and reversal.

There are also situations when the overlay from the valve flies off and falls between the valve and the "seat", which leads to the refusal of the fuel pump.

It should also be borne in mind that domestic gasoline pumps use three membranes: two for fuel supply and one for sealing. Currently, there is no shortage of spare parts for any VAZ model. All types of spare parts required for car repair are presented in the trade network, regardless of modification and year of production.

The process of removing and installing the fuel pump is carried out in several operations. The fuel pump is fastened using two studs and nuts with the simultaneous installation of gaskets.

To remove the fuel pump, it is necessary to disconnect the pressure and supply pipelines and unscrew the fastening nuts.

When removing the pump, carefully detach the heat-insulating and sealing gaskets without damaging them.

After the repair, it is necessary to carry out the installation, which has a number of features. First of all, gaskets are installed: sealing, having a thickness of 0.7-0.8 mm, then heat-shielding and insulating gaskets 0.27-0.33 mm. It is necessary to comply with the condition that the pusher is slightly higher than 0.8 mm, if it does not look out, then replace the 0.7-0.8 mm gasket with 0.27-0.33 mm.

If the pusher protrudes above the gaskets by more than 1.3 mm, the 0.7-0.8 mm gasket is replaced with a thicker one, 1.2-1.3 mm thick. It is also necessary to observe the order when a gasket of 0.27–0.33 mm is to be installed between the heat-insulating gasket and the casing.

The set of gaskets between the pump and the cylinder block should allow the tappet to extend by a distance of 0.8–1.3 mm. After installing the fuel pump, it is attached and the gas lines are connected.

The engine is started and the condition and performance of the fuel pump and pipelines are checked for gasoline leaks.

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Disconnect the hoses

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Fittings

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Replacing the fuel pump

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We remove the gas pump

After preliminary diagnostics and determining the cause of the malfunction of the mechanisms, it is necessary to remove the fuel pump and check its performance with an audit of all component parts.

Carrying out the necessary operations carried out when disassembling the pump:

  1. It is necessary to detach the head fastening screws.
  2. The fuel pump head with valves, filter and cover is removed.
  3. The condition of the diaphragm is checked by pressing and rotating 90 ° clockwise or counterclockwise.
  4. The diaphragm and the return spring are removed.
  5. The diaphragm is inspected, if there are defects, the defective parts are replaced with serviceable ones from the repair kit.
  6. Parts are carefully removed from the diaphragm assembly.
  7. A complete audit of all components is done and the assembly is assembled in reverse order.
  8. If it is necessary to replace the valves, the fuel pump head is carefully pressed out of the seat, with the preliminary removal of the punching. Next, a new valve is installed and punching is performed in the seat.
  9. A check of the tightness of the discharge and suction branch pipes of the gasoline pump is carried out.
  10. A complete revision of the head flange fit is carried out in the fastening areas that are exposed to increased stress when the fasteners are tightened. The screws are tightened crosswise using uniform forces.

For photo instructions for disassembling the fuel pump, see below:

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We unscrew the screws and disconnect the case

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Take out the diaphragm assembly and spring, replace the assembly, reposition the old spacer

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Replacing the diaphragm set

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Replacing the strainer and cracked parts

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Flush with gasoline, blow through and collect

The fuel pump of a VAZ 2106 car is the most important unit and provides uninterrupted fuel supply to the carburetor to form a fuel mixture. When traveling long distances, it is necessary to have an additional fuel pump for replacement in the event of a breakdown of the standard pump installed on the car.

The process of repairing a DAAZ fuel pump using a repair kit is shown below:

And this is the repair of the PECAR fuel pump: