Do-it-yourself gas pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an eye fuel pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Remove the fuel pump (see subsection 10.10.3.).

Before disassembling the pump, check the tightness of its valves. To do this, shake the lever of the manual drive of the fuel pump, alternately closing the suction and discharge (pictured) fittings with your finger. A vacuum must be created in the suction valve, and pressure in the discharge valve. (see subsection 10.10.2., operation 4).

1. Unscrew the fastening screw and.

2. ... remove the rod bracket.

3. Remove the rod of the manual fuel priming lever by pulling it out of the hole in the lever.

4. Remove the remaining five mounting screws and.

5. ... separate the casing and the bottom cover of the pump.

6. Remove the diaphragm assembly from the bottom cover and.

8. Replace any torn, frayed or hardened diaphragms. For this.

9. ... unscrew the fastening nut and.

10. ... disassemble the diaphragm assembly. Assemble the diaphragm assembly with new diaphragms in the reverse order of disassembly.

11. Unscrew the fastening nut and.

12. ... remove the top cover of the pump.

13. Replace a torn or warped strainer.

14. If the suction or pressure connection is loose in the pump casing, replace the casing.

15. Replace cracked or chipped body parts.

16. Pump valves must be free of seizure and tightness. Replace pump bottom cover with defective valves or valves only. To replace the valve.

17. ... press it out, after removing the punching. After pressing in the new valve, close its seat in three places.

18. Flush with gasoline and blow out all parts with compressed air. Assemble the fuel pump in the reverse order of removal. The diaphragm spacer has holes to drain fuel in case of diaphragm damage. When assembling, install the diaphragm assembly so that the holes on its gasket are located as far as possible from the exhaust pipe of the muffler.

Video (click to play).

1. Unscrew the fastening screw and.

2. ... remove the rod bracket.

3. Remove the rod of the manual fuel priming lever by pulling it out of the hole in the lever.

4. Remove the remaining five mounting screws and.

5. ... separate the casing and the bottom cover of the pump.

6. Remove the diaphragm assembly from the bottom cover and.

8. Replace any torn, frayed or hardened diaphragms. For this.

9. ... unscrew the fastening nut and.

10. ... disassemble the diaphragm assembly. Assemble the diaphragm assembly with new diaphragms in the reverse order of disassembly.

11. Unscrew the fastening nut and.

12. ... remove the top cover of the pump.

13. Replace a torn or warped strainer.

14. If the suction or pressure connection is loose in the pump casing, replace the casing.

15. Replace cracked or chipped body parts.

16. Pump valves must be free of seizure and tightness. Replace pump bottom cover with defective valves or valves only. To replace the valve.

17. ... press it out, after removing the punching. After pressing in the new valve, close its seat in three places.

You will need: keys "8" and "10", a Phillips screwdriver, a scraper (or a small file), a punch, a small hammer.

1. Remove the fastening screw and.

2.. remove the rod bracket.

3. Remove the rod of the manual fuel priming lever by pulling it out of the hole in the lever.

4. Remove the remaining five retaining screws and separate the casing and pump head.

5. Press down on the diaphragm assembly, rotate it 90 ° to either side, and remove the diaphragm assembly and from the body.

Further disassembly of the pump body is impractical, since the cost of purchasing and replacing damaged parts of the linkage mechanism is comparable to the cost of purchasing a new pump. If the casing is cracked, the pump mounting flange is deformed, or the linkage parts are worn or damaged, replace the pump.

Damage to the linkage is a rare failure. Most often, pump failure is caused by failure of diaphragms or valves.

7. Replace any torn, frayed or hardened diaphragms.

It is more convenient to replace the complete diaphragm assembly. The diaphragms are commercially available with this configuration. They are supplied as spare parts without a plastic outer spacer. If it is not possible to replace the complete diaphragm assembly, disassemble it and replace individual diaphragms. The diaphragms are secured to the stem with a nut. The outer spacer located between them is not fixed in any way and can be easily removed.

8. Unscrew the fastening nut and.

9. . disassemble the diaphragm assembly. Assemble the diaphragm assembly with new diaphragms in the reverse order of disassembly. When doing this, make sure that the holes in the diaphragms for the passage of the screws coincide, and the rectangular tabs on the two diaphragms are directed in the same direction.

10. Remove the mounting bolt and.

eleven. . remove the pump cover.

12. Replace a torn or warped strainer.

13. If the suction or pressure connection is loose in the pump head, replace the head as it may fall out while the engine is running and could cause a fire.

14. Replace cracked or chipped body parts. Check if the body and head flanges are deformed at the locations of the holes for the fastening screws. Deformations occur when the screws are tightened too much. In this case, a gap arises between the diaphragms, the casing and the pump head, which cannot be removed by tightening the screws, through which gasoline will leak. Straighten the flanges with light hammer blows through a soft drift and grind them on sandpaper. If the deformation cannot be completely eliminated, replace the body and head.

15. Pump valves must operate without seizure and must be tight. Replace pump head with defective valves or valves only. To replace the valve.

sixteen. . Press out its seat from the pump head, having previously removed it with a sharpened scraper or a punching file in three places (shown by arrows). After pressing in the new valve, close its seat in the other three places evenly spaced 120 ° apart.

17. Flush with gasoline and blow out with compressed air all parts. Assemble the fuel pump in the reverse order of removal. The diaphragm spacer has holes to drain fuel in case of diaphragm damage. When assembling, install the diaphragm assembly so that the holes on its gasket are located as far as possible from the front pipe of the exhaust system.

Tighten the head fastening screws evenly crosswise, without applying excessive force so as not to deform the flange. Pre-tighten all the screws by several threads, squeeze the manual fuel priming lever down to the stop and only then finally tighten the screws. This must be done so that the diaphragm takes the optimal shape and does not stretch during the pump operation, which will lead to a decrease in its durability.

for any you boil (except hunger strike)

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I recently had something similar on the Oka, a replacement of the pipeline. It was laid under the carpets, and there it is always wet and the pipeline is steel, and the rubber hoses need to be examined. Rather piping from the tank to the pump.

Post has been edited VictoR 67 – 23.5.2012, 21:06

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Your car: Der Wagen des Traumes)))
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But today I was picking up in the car just. A very interesting picture is observed. The gas line is intact, I checked it 20 times, there are no traces of gasoline anywhere. Everything inside the cabin is dry and comfortable.

Conducted an experiment. I lengthened the tube from the bottle by 1 meter.

Gasoline pump 1 - native Okovsky old. I shake the bottle again. Comes 1 cm in 10-15 strokes.
I put in a gas pump 2 - a new eight-speed one. Comes from a 1 cm bottle in 5-10 strokes.
I turned the starter. The same.
Conclusion: a long gas line does not pump, a short one pumps easily.

Yes, I pumped the entire gas line to the tank with a hand pump (simple). So, under pressure, all the rubbish had to be knocked out into the tank.

As a result, I replaced the clamps, put everything in place, started up, rode. For now, I'll go there, then I'll leave it for another week, we'll see how it will start.

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with a hand pump (simple), I pumped the entire gas line to the tank. So, under pressure, all the rubbish had to be knocked out into the tank.

As a result, I replaced the clamps, put everything in place, started up, rode.

Tatyan, my respect! Well this should be so fond of poking around in cars)

about the fact that a long gas line does not pump - it is necessary to check the main spring inside the gas pump - as far as I remember, it is she who pulls the membrane, and with it the gasoline. Or put a pump like PeCar

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Why is there such crap on both pumps then? And on the native shackled boo and on the eight - NEW !! ...

Today I dashed off 100 km, it seems to be going well.

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And at the expense of repairs, thanks of course) very nice) I have to figure it out myself, but one master in St. Petersburg told me by phone that the carburetor could not be adjusted! It must be completely changed))))))) It's like one whole detail, very complex, and witchcraft happens there, so they only stupidly change) It's good that I'm not blonde)

I think that, in principle, I can already open a separate branch with the topic - how they bred or try to dissolve girls for repairs)))))))

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Figasebe.

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[quote name = ’Sama_ya’ date = ’25 .5.2012, 19:32 ′ post = ’1191114 ′]
But today I was picking up in the car just. A very interesting picture is observed. The gas line is intact, I checked it 20 times, there are no traces of gasoline anywhere. Everything inside the cabin is dry and comfortable.

I don’t want to be annoying, but everything was dry and comfortable in my cabin, I think because the gas pump pulls in itself and therefore there are no traces of gasoline (if it sucks air, then where does the gas come from?). I changed the fuel pump with the same success. I changed the gas line and went to the factory gas pump, mileage 120,000 km. Everything is working now.

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Your car: VAZ-11113 motoblock-sold !, VAZ 21093 golden (sea wave) O543MO, TurboTAZ 21093 - junk, Lada Kalyana - so red
Real name: Nikolay Nikolaich

Tatyan, my respect! Well this should be so fond of poking around in cars)

Why is there such crap on both pumps then? And on the native shackled boo and on the eight - NEW !! ...

Today I dashed off 100 km, it seems to be going well.

Conducted an experiment. I lengthened the tube from the bottle by 1 meter.

Yes, with a (simple) hand pump I pumped the entire gas line to the tank. So, under pressure, all the rubbish had to be knocked out into the tank.

As a result, I replaced the clamps, put everything in place, started up, rode. For now, I'll go there, then I'll leave it for another week, we'll see how it will start.

Nobody invented a return line there? Maybe the new pump isn't very good? I changed two pumps at my colleague's eight, disassembled and shook out the metal shavings before installation, it was there from the factory

Remove the fuel pump (see subsection 10.10.3.).

1. Unscrew the fastening screw and.

2. ... remove the rod bracket.

3. Remove the rod of the manual fuel priming lever by pulling it out of the hole in the lever.

4. Remove the remaining five mounting screws and.

5. ... separate the casing and the bottom cover of the pump.

6. Remove the diaphragm assembly from the bottom cover and.

8. Replace any torn, frayed or hardened diaphragms. For this.

9. ... unscrew the fastening nut and.

10. ... disassemble the diaphragm assembly. Assemble the diaphragm assembly with new diaphragms in the reverse order of disassembly.

11. Unscrew the fastening nut and.

12. ... remove the top cover of the pump.

13. Replace a torn or warped strainer.

14. If the suction or pressure connection is loose in the pump casing, replace the casing.

15. Replace cracked or chipped body parts.

16. Pump valves must be free of seizure and tightness. Replace pump bottom cover with defective valves or valves only. To replace the valve.

17. ... press it out, after removing the punching. After pressing in the new valve, close its seat in three places.

1. Unscrew the fastening screw and.

2. ... remove the rod bracket.

3. Remove the rod of the manual fuel priming lever by pulling it out of the hole in the lever.

4. Remove the remaining five mounting screws and.

5. ... separate the casing and the bottom cover of the pump.

6. Remove the diaphragm assembly from the bottom cover and.

8. Replace any torn, frayed or hardened diaphragms. For this.

9. ... unscrew the fastening nut and.

10. ... disassemble the diaphragm assembly. Assemble the diaphragm assembly with new diaphragms in the reverse order of disassembly.

11. Unscrew the fastening nut and.

12. ... remove the top cover of the pump.

13. Replace a torn or warped strainer.

14. If the suction or pressure connection is loose in the pump casing, replace the casing.

15. Replace cracked or chipped body parts.

16. Pump valves must be free of seizure and tightness. Replace pump bottom cover with defective valves or valves only. To replace the valve.

17. ... press it out, after removing the punching. After pressing in the new valve, close its seat in three places.

Gas pumps are one of the main vehicle units. The task of the fuel pump is to supply fuel from the tank to the carburetor (for carburetor engines). For carburetor-type engines, diaphragm gas pumps are used, the capacity of which is approximately 100 l / h. A malfunction of the fuel pump can make the vehicle unsuitable for further movement. In addition, in the event of a fuel leak from the fuel pump, not only gasoline, but, as a consequence, the entire car may ignite.
If the supply of gasoline to the carburetor is insufficient, then the engine power decreases, jerks of the VAZ 2106 car appear during vigorous acceleration and movement at high speeds. If the remaining elements of the power system are in good working order, a decrease in supply is caused by a malfunction or improper installation of the fuel pump.

Alexander how long have you been doing this business? And what were the preconditions that got you into the machine business?

tolcatel-82.5 mm length of a new but can be erased the cam of the drive But as a backup option External electric fuel pump boshsh with a pressure of 0.3 kgssm

Bare China and spacers and push and spacers and new baker.

you got a fake, the screws for the minus screwdriver are on the original, you have positive

You put it on the car and measure this distance, the protrusion of the rod, because I did it by eye to add gaskets while the machine stopped pulling, and then removed it and everything worked, you can still unscrew the plug and see if it is black, then the pump rolls strongly.

And you try to measure the distance with a barbell, then show and figure out what the maximum or minimum should be.

The stock is completely dead, it looks like raw meat. Today I changed it to the same 700, changed the spacer, it was cracked before me, the stock was a little worn, a little shorter than the new one, I left it, although I drove 30,000 km on it, + I don't know how much was moving away, there was a “domed” pump daaz, the suction foot did not work for him, in fact, the spring was broken, barely shaking.

Unfortunately, this method cannot be applied to baker pumps. The baker has less lever travel than daaz. Therefore, there is a possibility of damage to the pump drive.

Remove the fuel pump (see subsection 10.10.3.).

1. Unscrew the fastening screw and.

2. ... remove the rod bracket.

3. Remove the rod of the manual fuel priming lever by pulling it out of the hole in the lever.

4. Remove the remaining five mounting screws and.

5. ... separate the casing and the bottom cover of the pump.

6. Remove the diaphragm assembly from the bottom cover and.

8. Replace any torn, frayed or hardened diaphragms. For this.

9. ... unscrew the fastening nut and.

10. ... disassemble the diaphragm assembly. Assemble the diaphragm assembly with new diaphragms in the reverse order of disassembly.

11. Unscrew the fastening nut and.

12. ... remove the top cover of the pump.

13. Replace a torn or warped strainer.

14. If the suction or pressure connection is loose in the pump casing, replace the casing.

15. Replace cracked or chipped body parts.

16. Pump valves must be free of seizure and tightness. Replace pump bottom cover with defective valves or valves only. To replace the valve.

17. ... press it out, after removing the punching. After pressing in the new valve, close its seat in three places.

Time zone: UTC + 7 hours

Here I am wondering, gentlemen, homemade products. Have you tried removing ONE GASKET from under the fuel pump. Have you tried it? So what.

ONCE AGAIN I WRITE IN CAPITAL LETTERS: NOT THREE, NOR TWO, BUT ONE (FIRST THE FINEEST), AND THEN, IF THE EXPERIENCE WAS UNSUCCESSFUL, WILL THE FINE RETURN, AND REMOVE THICK?

Did you boil with the baker?
And you wrote that the baker was in the furnace, but as far as I remember before that I considered him the only panacea for boiling gasoline when overheated, in connection with which I changed my opinion so dramatically?

Last edited by wundr on 01 Jun 2012 00:06, edited 1 time in total.

Today I stalled once again, not enough nerves (1.5 hours in a traffic jam in today's heat). It stalled without a drop in speed, which surprised me a lot. The tachometer regularly showed 1000 rpm and at the start of the movement the car simply went out. Immediately started, gasped, stalled again. After that, attempts to start up did not lead to anything. A quick inspection under the hood, fuel filter empty. The treatment is like everyone else's, a rag is water and after 5-10 minutes you go again until the next overheating.

The gaskets are already at a minimum. There is an option to replace the stock, but I think it will not help. I do not believe that the old stock could be strongly worn out for a little more than 30 tyk run. They usually walk 80-100 thousand.

In this regard, I went over my old baker.I put it on it instead of my own DAAZ triple membrane. I don’t know how viable the design will be, I haven’t found anything like it on the internet, but it’s not badly pumped by hand. When pumping, the finger sticks to the inlet fitting for dead. The only fear is that the plastic spacer between the membranes can be etched from the drain holes, but for this it is necessary that both upper ones are full of holes, and the inspection did not show this.

When parsing, I found a place through which the baker pumped my benz into the crankcase. The membrane turned out to be innocent and absolutely intact. The whole problem was in the hole in the upper part of the fuel pump. At the bottom of the fuel pump, a threaded hole was made through to the pusher heel chamber. Accordingly, when the cover was not tightly attracted, gasoline mixed with oil through this hole, seeping along the thread. When installing a membrane from DAAZ, the problem, in theory, should go away, because the membrane itself is 3-layer + plastic spacer in the middle, plus the mounting bolts are replaced by DAAZ with growers, which are longer and tightly plugged this hole, leaving a little through. I do not think that now it will leak in this place, if it is, then for good it is necessary to completely put a new bottom of the gas pump.

I haven’t delivered the design yet, so I can’t say anything about its work. I will bet at my own risk on the weekend. They just promise the heat, it will be possible to check how good the baker has become

Good afternoon, dear Okavody!

It seems that our machine is old, not prestigious, for an amateur, and the topics of its maintenance and repair have been considered more than once, but here I also decided to speak here under the impression of the latest (or extreme) to date, improvements. - maybe my writing below will help someone, since he himself has repeatedly used the tips posted on different sites.

OKA 2004, 4 owners before me, I have 8 years.

1. A coordinated solution to the problem with the slow rotation of the starter (long-suffering Belarusian) was carried out by installing under the brass screw minus brushes (instead of steel) an additional wire (with a cross section of about 10 sq mm) with good tinned copper terminals, directly to the battery minus bus. not measured, but the contacts: engine - car body, brushes - starter stator housings, were cleaned and checked with a tester. Now, almost a month, a starter with my old 45 a. h. battery at minus 10 turns the engine "like on a big car", which even in the summer has never happened.

2. The refusal of the “baker” fuel pump (distortion of the valve at high summer temperatures) was completely avoided by reducing the pressure in the fuel pump itself by installing a “return” of gasoline 5 years ago (an additional gas line through the nozzle).

3. Literally a month before the installation of this additional gas line, the smell of gasoline began to be felt in the cabin while driving. The search for obvious leaks did not reveal. And only when disassembling the carburetor (to install the "return" fitting), I accidentally noticed that the rubber-fabric membrane of the accelerating pump has a barely noticeable "crumbling" in the center. The smell has disappeared and does not return after replacing this membrane with a modern pink rubber.

I will sign the details if those who are interested are interested in knowing them.

Thank you

I do not like

Angel_dnja Jul 23, 2013

Good day! I ask for help in understanding the reasons for this phenomenon.
When the car is moving, the gas pump overheats and the car stalls. At idle, everything is in order. The fan runs on schedule. Car of 2006 carburetor. Changed the fuel pump, it didn't help. What are the variants of the problem?
Thanks in advance for the answers.

For the pump, it's interesting, of course, that the new one was installed.!
Question -HOW? showtopic = 4491
So how is the link described or stupidly two nuts and two clamps?
Now, pay attention to the underwater fuel hoses - are there any kinks of these?

Now, let's talk about the carb, or rather, its half-thought needle.
This non-separable beast is capable of sticking already in motion !!
Moreover, not an iron current, but also a UNICAR type, an advanced identity, which is not separable.
What can you offer? - Unicar from Carba 2108, but the difficulty in installing and setting the fuel level.
A cardinal, another way is to replace carb with SOLEKS, OZONE HYBRID.
How to choose the right carb? -the answer can be read showtopic = 3660
In Solex 2108, you need to change the jets, supply fuel from OKA, although b.
Well, drill holes in the pan for the studs.

How to check whether the needle is or not - after the engine stops, open-remove the pan and knock a couple of times with the hammer handle at the place where the needle is standing, pump fuel into the hand-start the engine.
Post has been edited Woolif: 24 July 2013 - 04:09

Thank you

I do not like

Angel_dnja Jul 24, 2013

About the installation.
Everything is delivered correctly. That's for sure.
All hoses are normal, checked.
Into the account of the needle.
Today we will check again for the Russian case. There was a case, it stuck. But the carburetor seems to have fixed everything. But. There is always a BUT. Perhaps she is again.
Thanks for the recommendations. Unsubscribe)

1. Defective fuel pump
2. The ventilation of the gas tank is blocked.
3. The carburetor needle sticks.
More options did not come to mind.

1. The non-pump is good, tested on another machine))
2. This was also checked, all the rules
3. We will check it again today.
Thanks for the recommendations

Members
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City: Saint Petersburg
Name: Vityok

Hello dear forum users.

Please help me understand what's the matter. There is Oka (2 cylinders, carburetor). The carburetor is adjusted, starts without problems.

At one point, the engine stalls and refuses to start. An autopsy revealed the presence of water in the carburetor, fuel filter, and tank.

-The tank is removed, washed.
-The gas line blew out of the compressor (the gas line is new, recently installed, there are no kinks).
-The fuel filter is new.
-The fuel pump is new.
-The carburetor is flushed.

I collected everything. Started up, worked for half a minute, idle disappeared, the engine stalled and refused to start.
There is no gasoline in the fuel filter (filter element is wet)
The gas pump creates a vacuum at the inlet.
The gas line is blown out normally (15-20 mbar resistance with a full tank).

Fastened the fuel filter so that the inlet is higher than the outlet, i.e. gasoline in the filter flows down to the outlet. Started up immediately, XX without problems, rides without problems. BUT, a thin stream flows into the fuel filter, which immediately goes into the fuel pump, the fuel filter is still empty.

What could be the problem, why is there no gasoline in the filter? The gasoline pump on the Oka creates the same vacuum as on the nearby Niva, on which more than half of the fuel filter is always filled with gasoline.

ZY There were no problems before the water in the tank, because the fuel filter was just the outlet below the inlet, but it was also empty, after getting rid of the water, the rubber pipes from the steel gas line to the filter and from the filter to the fuel pump were replaced and the filter changed its position.

What upsets a car enthusiast the most on the road? The question is rhetorical! Of course, a forced stop due to technical problems with the car.

We do not have a car service to solve such problems, oncoming cars to call for help may not stop, or they may be completely absent from the radius of the nearest consideration, and the domestic car enthusiast is left alone with his problem.

And if the fuel pump has failed? What should be done in this case?

Many motorists get out of the situation in the following way: they pour gasoline into some container and connect it directly to the carburetor through a hose, the car starts up and starts, finally, from a place.

However, firstly, gasoline must be constantly topped up, and secondly, it can splash out of the container, which will lead to a fire in the car.

There is a simpler, safer, and, importantly, proven method for solving this problem.

Let's make a reservation right away that this method is suitable for domestic cars with a carburetor system (any Zhiguli model).

You will need: a tire inflation pump, a tube (a ballpoint pen will do) and a clamp (you can use a regular wire).

First, with the help of a tube, you need to connect together two hoses that are connected to the gas pump - thereby it is cut off from the system.

Then remove the tip from the pump for inflating tires, put the pump hose on the gas tank vent pipe, tighten the connection with a clamp (wire).

Pump air into the gas tank, while the number of "pumping" depends on the volume of the tank, for example, for a serial model "Zhiguli" 7-10 of them are enough.

In this way, pressure is created in the tank, which ensures the flow of gasoline into the carburetor.

The pump should not be disconnected, since in this case it is a plug and prevents air from escaping from the tank. You may still need it if you have to.
pump air again, although you can go without stopping for a long time, up to 100 km.

Important! If you decide to use this method, take into account the following note: in no case do not pump air into the gas tank in large quantities, and at the same time do not leave the car with the engine inoperative in the sun.

If you have to turn off the engine for a long time, be sure to bleed the air from the gas tank to avoid negative consequences.

Reliable gas pumps are installed on cars of the VAZ family of cars, but nevertheless, sometimes you have to perform repair of a fuel pump vaz for one reason or another.
Reference.
Similar fuel pumps are installed on ZAZ 1102 "Tavria", "Slavuta", ZAZ 968M "Zaporozhets".

Signs that the vaz fuel pump needs repair are:

• The appearance of the smell of gasoline in the cabin
• Traces of oil in the lower part of the fuel pump
• Poor engine starting, unstable operation and loss of power

The smell in the car interior may appear due to a malfunction of the pump diaphragm or due to a stripped thread in the body of the pump, or on the bolt securing its top cover. In this case, when the diaphragm is worn out, it must be replaced, and if the thread in the body of the VAZ fuel pump is torn off, then in most cases the pump must be replaced. Leakage of gasoline can also be through the fuel pump fitting, if it does not “sit” tightly in the body of the fuel pump.

You can try to correct the situation by tapping the pump body to the next dimension with a tap. In this case, it will also be necessary to enlarge the hole in the pump cover, since a larger diameter bolt will be required.

Traces of oil in the lower part of the fuel pump are caused either by the wear of the lower diaphragm petal, or oil flows along the “tab” mounting rod (No. 12 in the photo) in the pump drive. The stock from the factory is stamped and filled with a special compound, which cracks over time and the oil begins to come out.

Structurally, the pump diaphragm consists of a stem, three petals and a plastic spacer. The two upper petals are "responsible" for supplying gasoline to the engine, and the lower diaphragm serves to cut off oil from the cylinder block and protects the engine from gasoline in the event of a breakdown of the upper diaphragm.The diaphragm assembly (fungus) also has a return spring, in case of a breakdown of which the pump also stops working, especially with manual pumping.

Sometimes the rod of the "foot" of the drive comes out (moves) to one side up to the exit from both holes in the body of the fuel pump, which leads to its failure to work. In this case, the pump must be removed, being careful not to lose the spring located behind the "tab" of the drive. Then put in place the return spring of the "foot", the "foot" itself and insert the rod into place, stamping it on both sides. For a guarantee, you need to apply a little paint on the stamped places.

Often the refusal of the gasoline pump is connected with the breakdown of this spring located behind the "foot". The pump can behave rather strangely: it pumps, then does not pump. This is due to the fact that the coils of the burst spring can "enter" each other and then the "foot" cannot return during the operation of the pump - it stops pumping. When the coils come out of the rest of the spring from engine vibration or for another reason, the length of the spring is restored, as it were, and the pump starts to work for some time. The broken spring must be replaced.
If there is no spring of the required length and diameter at hand, then you can pick up something from the available similar springs in the spare parts. When, say, the spring is long, then it can be reduced with pliers to the desired size.

Poor starting (sometimes it is impossible to start the engine at all) of the engine, unstable operation and loss of power are associated with a malfunction of the fuel pump valves. The valves are made of PCB and are subject to wear, especially in the absence of a fine fuel filter.
Valve failure leads to the fact that after stopping the engine, gasoline from the pipeline from the pump to the carburetor flows back into the fuel pump and starting is possible only after the pump half-pumped fuel into the carburetor.

The diameter of the valve plate decreases due to wear, and the plate tries to "stand up" with an edge, causing the pump to stop working. On the latest releases of gasoline pumps, the valve plates received a guide pin (the pin does not allow the valve plate to stand up with an edge) and a rubber pad for more guaranteed contact of the valve with the seat.

In some cases, the lining is spontaneously removed from the valve and gets between the valve and the seat, which also leads to the failure of the VAZ fuel pump.
In all of the above cases, remove the top cover of the pump, then the valve seat must be removed and the valve plate replaced, or the rubber band must be replaced and the valve assembly reassembled (if the valve plate is not worn out). To remove the valve seat, you can use a thin beard or screwdriver tip by poking it through the center hole.

For the repair of the fuel pump, special repair kits are produced. The repair kit includes:

• Diaphragms (3 pieces), stem, metal washer - pad, textolite spacer and stem nut. Sometimes it is all sold assembled in the form of a "fungus"
• Valve seats (two pieces), valves (two pieces), valve springs (two pieces)

After the spring, valve and saddle are installed, you need to tap the saddle from above with a metal object of a suitable diameter (any bolt) and then make three notches around the seat bore of the saddle with a blunt screwdriver. The serifs are made so that the saddle cannot move out of its seat during operation.

The failure of the VAZ fuel pump may be associated with a jamming of the pump drive rod, which can sometimes be deformed (bent in the center of the rod). The rod cannot extend to its full length and therefore the pump stops working or does not pump fuel.
This is usually due to the fact that uneven wear of the eccentric of the drive shaft of the auxiliary mechanisms (popularly better known as a pig) occurs and when the gas pedal is pressed sharply on it (the rod), an shock load occurs.

The manual priming lever may not work due to the breakage of the return spring of the lever (located on top of the pump).

Video (click to play).

As you can see from the article material, any motorist who is familiar with the tool and who repairs a car with his own hands can repair a VAZ gas pump.

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