In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2109 fuel pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Withdrawal:
Note!
3) After loosening all the screws, separate the upper pump casing from the lower one.
4) Then, with three or four fingers drowning the central metal ring of the diaphragm assembly, rotate it clockwise 90 °, and as a result of which the diaphragm assembly will be removed from you.
5) After you have removed the diaphragm assembly, take it by hand, and then remove it from the lower pump housing.
Note!
6) Next, visually inspect all the diaphragms of the "diaphragm assembly", the presence of rupture, various kinds of abrasions and hardening of the diaphragms is not allowed. (For clarity, the photo below shows all the components of the diaphragm assembly, and the diaphragms themselves are indicated under the number "4")
Note!
To repair the diaphragm assembly, and replace the diaphragms in it, after removing it, do the following operations with it:
2. After loosening the nut, remove the center metal ring of the diaphragm assembly.
Video (click to play).
4. And then remove the inner, and together with it the outer spacer.
5. At the very end of the operation, remove the last remaining diaphragm from the stem.
Installation:
Note!
2) Next, when you get to the installation of the diaphragm assembly, install it on the pump in such a way that the small protrusion that is on the diaphragm is strictly aligned with the side of the pump, as shown in the figure:
3) Before completing the operation, always remember that all holes that are in the spacer should be located as far as possible from the intake pipe of the car muffler when installing the fuel pump in its place.
Important!
Why is the 16 valve injector not pumping and not working on the VAZ-2112?
Lada cars of the 2112 family were supplied with injection engines. The fuel pump is responsible for supplying fuel to these cars. 21102-1139009 It is a plastic module containing a pump and a level sensor. Several companies produced similar modules, and the products differed in quality. If there is a suspicion that the fuel pump is not working, the ignition must be turned on on the VAZ-2112 - the pump must pump fuel for the first 1.5 s.But the sound of a running motor may not be heard. Fuel pump for vaz 2108 2109 21099 fuel pump injector vaz 2108 2109 21099 1) and video. It will be better to measure the voltage at the terminals.
The video below shows how the assembly of the module is dismantled.
The pump power circuit contains many parts: relay contacts 5, fuse 3 (15 A), wire "", wire "pump-ground". The most "difficult" defect is the short circuit of the "" wire to ground. By the way, the cord itself is laid over the metal, so such a disadvantage cannot be ruled out.
Mounting block for dashboard
Both the relay and the fuse are located in the block located under the dashboard on the right. Replacing a fuel pump on an injection vaz 2109 ?. The fuse can burn out in 2 cases:
The cord "" is in contact with the mass;
The resistance of the motor decreases from overheating.
The first flaw may be "floating", then it will be difficult to identify it. But before contacting an electrician, try to check everything else:
Relay 5 should click twice: when the ignition is turned on and after 1.5 s. Here is a video and photo, vaz 2101-2107. Complete replacement of the thresholds of the vases with their own. If this does not happen, change the relay;
Check the fuse 3. Replacing the CV joint vaz 2108, 2109, 21099 - youtube. If it burns out, you need to find the reason.
Let's see the situation: the relay is working properly, and the fuse is blown. Then we do this: disconnect the pump connector, install a new fuse and measure the voltage at the terminals. Details are below.
Under the rear seat, you need to remove the hatch: the two screws are unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. Next, you need to disconnect the connector on the module, and then we run over to the block under the dashboard.
First, turn off the gas pump!
We replace the fuse. We run over to the fuel pump: we connect the probe (cord "zero") to any of the fastening pins. Replacing the thresholds of the VAZ 2101 Replacing the windshield of the VAZ 2110 see also the video how. Voltage should appear on the "gray" wire when the ignition is turned on. Replacing the pump vaz 21099 do-it-yourself injector at home procedure. 4 methods to check the status of the device. And also check the potential difference between the "gray" and "black" wires - it should be equal to 12 volts, and also at the moment the ignition is turned on. Unsoldering:
The "black wire" loses contact with ground from time to time. At the last step, we checked just this version.
There are reviews of the owners, which says: the gas pump on the VAZ-2112 does not work if the electric motor is in good working order and if there are voltages in the connector. This happens when the contacts of the internal terminal block are oxidized (see photo).
Internal connector - yellow
It's hard to get to the connector on the motor - you need to remove the fuel pump module by unscrewing 8 nuts around the perimeter.
Before unscrewing the nuts, you must disconnect the two hoses. But try to start the engine first. For all this, the power supply of the gas pump is not connected.
Pay attention - the power is turned off here!
Everything is ready for dismantling if:
The outer connector is disabled;
The engine cannot be started, although the power supply is not de-energized;
It is better if the tank is less than 50% full.
It is necessary to unscrew two fittings from the module cover (top photo). Replacing the clutch vaz 21099 with your own hands. Guide to removing and replacing front brake pads VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 - videos and articles on the maintenance and repair of cars with your own hands. Then, using a socket wrench, twist the nuts from the studs and remove the fixing ring.
VIDEO Video management of replacing the fuel pump on the VAZ 2110, Kalina, Grant and Priore, as well as other injection.
VIDEO
Mutual subscription, you subscribe to me, I automatically for you. The pump changed the 1st time, previously cleaned once.
There is quite a bit left to the internal connector
After gaining access to the internal connector, you need to clean its contacts. The assembly is carried out in reverse order. Successful!
Oxidation of the terminals of the internal connector is a common disease of the VAZ-2112 fuel pump, and only one of the contacts does not work with all this. The terminal "" is oxidized more often.
In general, the pump article for VAZ-2112 engines looks like this: 21102-1139009-XX. Instead of letters XX there are numbers, for example 02 or 03. They mean the manufacturer. So, modules from different factories are not interchangeable! The resistance of the FLS resistor differs in them. In general, when replacing the FLS sensor, you can borrow from the "old" module. Oil change in the engine VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 - repair. Replacing the fuel pump with carburetor VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099. This is usually done.
Until April 2002, articles of the type 2112-1139009 were used.
Almost every module available for purchase contains an integrated pressure regulator. There are also exceptions - KSZC-A243, for example. The meaning is in the following:
All internal combustion engines with a volume of 1.5 liters are equipped with a ramp with an "external" regulator (2112-1160010);
A 21124 or 21114 motor requires an integral governor. Any module can be used with motors with a volume of 1.5 liters - either with an integrated regulator or without.
21102-062213.0XX - instead of the letters XX, the designation of the plant will go (07, 13, etc.);
KSZC-A233 or A243 - KSZC brand. Removing the cylinder head and replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099. Detailed instructions for removing the cylinder head and replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 with your own hands. No pressure regulator.
You can use our annotation in one case: when the gas pump is not working, and other systems are working properly. From time to time, the engine will not start for several reasons right off the bat. Then you need to reduce the pressure like this: they wait 5-6 hours, with all this, the ignition is not turned on. Be careful!
Actually, the ramp is under pressure
You can find out about the presence of pressure using the standard method:
Open the hood;
On the fuel rail there is a fitting closed with a plastic cap. in this video we will show how the rear hub bearing is replaced on a vaz car of the tenth family. It is turned away (photo 1);
The cap from the nipple (photo 2) can be used to unscrew the union cap. This action is done carefully: the residual pressure has not disappeared anywhere.
Even if the gasoline starts to beat with a fountain, do not try to turn the fitting right away. Let the pressure drop a little.
Diagnostic connection and plug
Trying to fix a gas pump is laudable. It will be possible to change its mesh. But a clogged narrow filter can also be a prerequisite for problems.
The replaceable filter ("bank" 2112-1117010) breaks down evenly. On all injection cars, including the VAZ-2112, the gas pump will not stop working even with a completely clogged filter. The fuel is not pumped through, but the motor does not burn out from this.
A constructive test is to connect the battery to the connector. With all this, the module itself must be in the tank! A working pump works inaudibly. If the engine buzzes, it's time to change the fuel pump, if it rings, find the reason and clean it up.
If it does not correctly indicate about 3 liters, then this is an error, and it is better to put a bortovik, it gives more precise characteristics, you do not need to go straight into the jungle.
My gasoline pump stopped working when the engine control unit failed)).
I was already pulled up by this motor.
further more terrible, now the pump fails when driving!
I searched everything there, swapped relays, fuses, probed how much wires go under the panel, or nothing!
how I got tired of this car!
on the forum drayv2 ru, I got into a conversation, I was assured that I was not the only one like me, there are thousands of people like me! and no one can find the reason why the engine does not keep the low speed bar and fails.
just like vibration at 100 km / h in the steering wheel.
and balanced wheels in various 100 and changed discs and stupas. bearings and brake.wheels, the entire suspension has been completely changed, the discrepancy is NOT Dared!
and sensors are a separate topic!
you will start in the afternoon, the revolutions xx 1500 and by themselves rise to 2000!
and it is always like that, always something interferes with just driving, these little things are already pissed off!
flat the tire, drove it to 100, glued it up for you, pumped it up and drove on. everything is clear here.
some kind of ancient Toyota, 80s, with an archaic injector does not deliver such troubles, everything works like clockwork.
and VAZ, this is a car from HELL and for devils.
Check the MAF sensor. I had this on Kalina, it did not work correctly. the voltage on it should be about, 96-1.01 and I gave out 1.06. changed it and did not become deaf.
The gas pump for the VAZ 2108 2109 21099 is installed electric. That is, it turns on by supplying it with + 12V voltage from the battery. It is located in the car's gas tank. The task of the fuel pump is to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel rail, from where, using the injection system, it is sprayed directly into the working cylinder.
The injection VAZ 2109 has an electric fuel pump
If there is voltage at the pump, then everything is fine with the electrical part, you need to look at the fuel system.
The pump operation is checked by measuring the pressure in the fuel rail, which has a special hole for connecting a pressure gauge. If voltage is applied to the pump, but there is no pressure in the fuel rail, the fuel filter should be checked. If it is in order, the fuel line from the tank to the rail is checked, if it is also not damaged, then the gas pump is most likely faulty.
For further diagnostics, the VAZ 2108 2109 21099 fuel pump must be removed from the car and try to install a new one. If everything works with the new fuel pump, then the old pump is faulty. If, however, the pressure in the fuel rail does not occur with a new fuel pump and the car does not start, then the problem will be in the fuel system.
If you do not have a pressure gauge, the operation of the fuel pump can be checked by the amount of fuel pumped per unit of time.
VIDEO
If the fuel pump on the VAZ 2109 malfunctions, the fuel supply to the carburetor stops completely or partially. Therefore, it is not possible to start the engine cold or hot. It will start at first, but then immediately stall. Plus, there is often instability at idle.
Before changing the fuel pump, it is recommended that you first check the condition of the device. It is not uncommon for a breakdown to be fixed with a small repair.
VIDEO
First of all, let's check if the feeding system of your VAZ 2109 works at all. To do this, you need to carry out the following measures:
Remove the pump fuel hose from the original or pressure connection;
Press the fuel priming lever several times by hand;
If the pump is operational, a strong jet of fuel will immediately flow through the fitting;
If there is no jet or it is very weak, it will be necessary to carry out other verification work.
Disconnect the hose from the suction connection, so that eventually both hoses are removed from each of its connections.
Simply plug the suction fitting with your finger, then pull the lever several times to manually pump fuel. If everything works fine, the finger will begin to suck into the fitting. This effect indicates that the pump is working properly. Therefore, we are looking for a problem in the tank or highways.
If there is no suction, you will have to disassemble the device in order to replace the inlet valve. Its tightness is most likely broken.
VIDEO
To check the tightness of the inlet valve, you must:
Place your finger on the hole from the discharge connection, pump fuel by hand pumping several times;
In this case, a stream of air should go out of the hole, significantly repulsing the pressed finger;
If the jet turns out to be weak or not there, the gas pump simply does not pump.
In this situation, there are two options - to look for the problem inside the fuel pump device, disassembling the pump, or to completely change the unit.
To fix the situation, you need:
Remove the cover from the fuel pump, remove the filter from there, clean and rinse it with clean fuel. Then be sure to blow with compressed air;
Check the condition of the filter. If it is deformed, no repair will help. We'll have to change the filtering device;
If you have a Pekar pump or a similar one, the filter can be dismantled by unscrewing the suction fitting from the cover. That is, it is not at all necessary to remove the cover.
VIDEO
You need to do the following for your fuel pump:
Remove the upper part of the fuel pump housing and remove the diaphragm assembly from there;
Unscrew the nut on the stem, and then pull out 3 diaphragms;
Replace defective elements with new ones. They are available in any repair kit for the VAZ 2109 fuel pump;
Assemble the knot in reverse order;
If you have a Pekar pump, there is only one diaphragm. It can be removed by removing the cover;
To detach the diaphragm assembly, rotate it 90 degrees.
Be sure to check in parallel the condition of the spring located under the diaphragm. To do this, you need to remove the upper part of the pump housing, remove the diaphragm stem and look at the current state of the spring. If it is broken, deformed or lacking elasticity, replace the element.
If both valves are in doubt about their performance, certain measures will have to be taken.
Remove the cap from the fuel pump and remove the mesh filter.
Visually assess the condition of the pump cavity and inlet valve.
After removing the top of the pump housing, you can take a look at the outlet valve.
If both valves are not properly seated, not properly seated or become stationary, replace the entire pump completely.
If you find traces of clogging of the valves, remove them, blow the body with compressed air.
In the case of the Pekar pump, two valves are located in the cap, so to assess their condition, simply remove the cap from the fuel pump body.
It is not uncommon for a fuel pump to fail due to damage to the pusher. For this case, we have prepared a separate instruction.
Remove the pump from the studs by unscrewing the mounting nuts. The thermal insulation insert, pusher and gaskets remain on the motor.
Rotate the crankshaft to extend the push rod as far as possible.
Measure the distance the pusher protrudes relative to the top gasket. Normally, the indicator is 0.8-1.3 millimeters.
If the protrusion is smaller or larger, try adjusting it using thicker or thinner shims.
There is the thickest outer gasket between the thermal insulation insert and the pump. It is necessary to change it when adjusting the protrusion.
New gaskets are available in repair kits, although many do it yourself. This requires a piece of paronite.
In order to determine the presence of malfunctions in the fuel pump, you must definitely know about the optimal parameters of this device.
Characteristic
Required parameters
Stem protrusion above the upper gasket
Pump pressure at idle speed
VIDEO
Buying a new fuel pump will not cost so much - up to 1000 rubles. However, such costs are high for many. And for some, just a conscience will not allow buying a new pump right away, if there is an opportunity to get by with a repair kit and return the pump to work literally for a penny and a couple of hours of work in your own garage.
So, now let's talk specifically about how to properly disassemble, replace damaged elements of the fuel pump, or completely replace this device with a new one.
VIDEO
Well, you figured out how you can repair and replace a gas pump on your own. The task is really not difficult, although this unit plays a very important role in the performance of the entire VAZ 2109 car.
VIDEO
The fuel systems of VAZ vehicles of the Sputnik and Samara families, regardless of the type of supply of the combustible mixture to the cylinders, are distinguished by their simplicity and maintainability. Any of their malfunctions can be eliminated without the involvement of specialists. Even if there are problems with the performance of the fuel pump, requiring repair or replacement of the element, they can be solved independently.
Most VAZ 2108/2109 cars were equipped with gasoline engines with carburetor injection of a combustible mixture into the combustion chambers. Only their latest modifications were equipped with fuel injection systems.
Absolutely all carburetor "eights" and "nines" were equipped with mechanical fuel pumps DAAZ produced by the Dimitrovgrad Automobile Unit Plant. They were and are being produced now under the catalog number 2108-1106010.
The VAZ 2108/2109 injection engines were equipped with electric submersible petrol pumps produced by the Russian enterprises Pekar, Utyos, SAAZ, as well as pumps of joint and foreign production. The latest modifications were fitted with Bosch fuel pumps. The catalog number of the VAZ 2108/2109 submersible electric fuel pump is 2112-1139009.
The DAAZ gasoline pump has a simple mechanical design. It includes:
a body consisting of an upper and a lower part;
lid;
mesh filter;
valves (inlet and outlet);
diaphragms (3 pcs) with spacers;
the rod to which the diaphragms are attached;
returnable spring;
manual pumping lever.
The mechanical fuel pump VAZ 2108/2108 is located in the engine compartment of the car and is installed on the housing of the auxiliary unit drive (in front of the ignition distributor). It is driven from the camshaft through the cam mechanism and the rod (pusher). The camshaft rotates the eccentric, which transfers the force through the pusher to the balancer in the lower part of the pump housing. The latter raises and lowers the rod with diaphragms. Thus, a vacuum is formed at the inlet of the pump, and pressure at the outlet. Valves located in the device body are responsible for its maintenance.
On the injection VAZ 2108/2109, the gas pump is not a separate device, but an element of the fuel module. It also includes:
The module is located in the vehicle's tank. Its lid (base) is at the top of the container. You can find it by removing the back seat and folding back the carpet.
Structurally, the fuel injection pump VAZ 2108/2109 is an electric motor with an impeller on the shaft, which, while rotating, pumps gasoline, creating a vacuum at the inlet and pressure at the outlet. The pump is powered from the vehicle's on-board network, protected by separate relays and a fuse.
Signs of a fuel pump malfunction are:
difficult engine start;
unstable engine idling;
"Dips" when pressing the accelerator pedal;
decrease in vehicle power.
Important: similar symptoms can be inherent in other malfunctions of the fuel system, as well as the ignition system. Before proceeding with the repair or replacement of the gasoline pump, it should be diagnosed.
Checking a mechanical fuel pump consists in determining its performance, that is, measuring the amount of fuel pumped over a unit of time. And it, according to the characteristics of the device, should be at least one liter per minute. To determine it, you need an assistant, as well as the following tools and means:
a screwdriver with a Phillips bit;
a piece of a fuel hose;
2 empty plastic bottles;
1.5 liters of gasoline;
watch with a stopwatch.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw on the clamp of the outlet fitting, loosen it and remove the fuel hose.
We pour gasoline into a plastic bottle. We lower the free end of the fuel hose (removed from the outlet fitting) into the bottle to the bottom. Through it, gasoline will be sucked into the carburetor when the fuel level in the float chamber drops.
We put the end of the prepared hose on the fuel pump outlet fitting. We lower the other end into an empty bottle.
We ask the assistant to start the engine, start the stopwatch. If the car has a tachometer, stick to 2000 rpm. If it is not there, we focus on hearing.
Further diagnostics should be aimed at identifying a faulty pump element. To carry it out, you need:
a screwdriver with a Phillips bit;
wrenches for 10 and 13;
vernier caliper (ruler).
First of all, we check the operation of the valves. We unscrew the screws of the clamps for securing the fuel hoses on the pump fittings. We remove the hoses. We put our finger (palm) against the outlet, plugging it. We press the manual pumping lever several times. At the same time, the pump should emit chomping sounds, and an air pressure should be felt at the fitting. We check the inlet valve in the same way. The finger, when pressing the pump lever, must be sucked into the fitting. If there is neither outlet pressure nor inlet vacuum, either the valves or the diaphragms are faulty.
The performance of a mechanical fuel pump can be restored if its faulty elements are replaced. You can buy them at any car store. But it is better to buy not individual parts, but a repair kit. It includes all the elements that may fail:
inlet and outlet valves;
diaphragms with spacers, plates, stem;
pusher;
thermal spacer;
gaskets
To replace the pump valves, you need an impact screwdriver and a small hammer.The valves are held in place by punching at three points. These areas must be carefully knocked down with a screwdriver. The valves can then be removed. Having installed new parts, we fix them by punching. To do this, we put the tip of the screwdriver on the edge of the body along the circumference of the socket and apply a slight blow to it with a hammer. We fix each valve in three places.
To replace the diaphragms, unscrew the nut by 10 at the top of the rod. Next, we remove the damaged elements, and in their place we install the parts from the repair kit.
The set includes three diaphragms: two working diaphragms and one safety diaphragm. The latter serves to prevent unauthorized entry of fuel into the carburetor if the first two are damaged. It is installed at the very bottom of the rod, right after the bottom plate. On top of it, we put spacers on the rod: first a small one, then a large one. We put the working membranes and the upper "plate" on them. We fix the resulting structure with a nut.
The thermal spacer does not need to be replaced unless it is damaged. Inspect its mating surfaces, especially the outer one, to which the lower part of the pump housing is attached. It should be perfectly flat. Otherwise, oil may leak at the junction of parts during engine operation.
The pusher is replaced by removing the old one and installing a new rod in its place. There is no difference in which end where it will be installed.
Now about the gaskets. There are only three of them in the repair kit, and they have different thicknesses:
The first one is intended for installation between the thermal spacer and the drive housing of auxiliary units, and the spacers "B" and "C" are used to adjust the protrusion of the pusher above its mating surface.
The adjustment is made as follows:
We install the thermal spacer with the first gasket and a new rod into the drive housing of the auxiliary units.
At the end of the adjustment, the fuel pump is installed in place and secured with nuts.
Replacing a mechanical pump assembly will take less than half an hour. To implement it, you will need:
key for 13;
a screwdriver with a Phillips bit;
container for draining gasoline.
We unscrew the screws of the clamps of the fuel hoses at the inlet and outlet of the pump unions.
We remove the hoses from the fittings.
Using a 13 key, unscrew the fuel pump mounting nuts.
We dismantle the pump. We drain gasoline from it.
VIDEO
If in "Sputniks" and "Samaras" with carburetor engines, fuel pump malfunctions are associated only with its design, then in injection machines they can also be caused by problems with the power supply of the device.
In order to check if the fuel pump is energized, turn on the ignition without starting the engine and listen. When you turn the key, you should first hear the click of the relay, and then the characteristic "squeal", which is emitted by the working electric motor of the fuel pump. If these sounds are absent, the search for the problem should begin with the pump circuit protectors.
The fuel pump relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block located under the glove compartment. The pump relay (R2) is installed in the middle, and its fuse (F2) is to the left of it.
We check them in this order:
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
We remove the fuse from the socket, "ring" it with a tester. If it is defective, we will replace it.
We connect the terminal to the battery, turn on the ignition without starting the engine. We switch the tester to the voltmeter mode and measure the voltage between the output of the relay, to which the pink wire fits and the "ground". The device should show 12 V. If there is no voltage, the problem must be looked for in the wiring or contact group of the ignition switch. If power is supplied to the relay, use a screwdriver to close the terminal to which the pink wire fits with the terminal connected to the gray wire. So the pump circuit will be closed directly (bypassing the relay).The gas pump has started working - we change the relay, no - we check if the voltage is supplied to the pump itself.
We remove the back seat. We bend the carpet under it, we find the hatch. We unscrew the screws (2 pcs) of its fastening. There is an electrical connector under the hatch. Disconnect it from the pump. We turn on the ignition. With the help of a tester, switched on in the voltmeter mode, we measure the voltage between the "plus" (gray wire) of the pump and its "mass". There is voltage - the problem is in the pump itself, no - the reason should be looked for in the wiring.
If the diagnostics showed that the pump is working, but the above signs of its malfunction are observed, you need to check the fuel pressure in the system. For this you will need:
a pressure gauge with a measurement range of 5-7 atmospheres (a conventional tire is suitable);
a section of a gas-resistant hose with a length of 50 cm and an inner diameter of 10–12 mm;
nipple cap;
2 hose clamps;
dry cloth.
We check the pressure in the following order:
We find a special fitting on the fuel rail. It is located on the right side of the device (when viewed from the car interior).
After making sure that the fuel line is working, you can start replacing the fuel pump. This will require the following tools:
crosshead screwdriver;
slotted screwdriver with a thin tip;
keys for 7, 10, 17.
The order of work is as follows:
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery (key 10).
We open the gas tank cap to reduce the pressure in it.
We remove the back seat, fold back the carpet. We unscrew the 2 screws securing the hatch.
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
To prevent a malfunction of the fuel pump from taking you by surprise, diagnose it at least once every six months. And in order for it to serve as long as possible, fill the tank with only high-quality fuel.
