Well, you figured out how you can repair and replace a gas pump on your own. The task is really not difficult, although this unit plays a very important role in the performance of the entire VAZ 2109 car.
VIDEO
The fuel systems of VAZ vehicles of the Sputnik and Samara families, regardless of the type of supply of the combustible mixture to the cylinders, are distinguished by their simplicity and maintainability. Any of their malfunctions can be eliminated without the involvement of specialists. Even if there are problems with the performance of the fuel pump, requiring repair or replacement of the element, they can be solved independently.
Most VAZ 2108/2109 cars were equipped with gasoline engines with carburetor injection of a combustible mixture into the combustion chambers. Only their latest modifications were equipped with fuel injection systems.
Absolutely all carburetor "eights" and "nines" were equipped with mechanical fuel pumps DAAZ produced by the Dimitrovgrad Automobile Unit Plant. They were and are being produced now under the catalog number 2108-1106010.
The VAZ 2108/2109 injection engines were equipped with electric submersible petrol pumps produced by the Russian enterprises Pekar, Utyos, SAAZ, as well as pumps of joint and foreign production. The latest modifications were fitted with Bosch fuel pumps. The catalog number of the VAZ 2108/2109 submersible electric fuel pump is 2112-1139009.
The DAAZ gasoline pump has a simple mechanical design. It includes:
a body consisting of an upper and a lower part;
lid;
mesh filter;
valves (inlet and outlet);
diaphragms (3 pcs) with spacers;
the rod to which the diaphragms are attached;
returnable spring;
manual pumping lever.
The mechanical fuel pump VAZ 2108/2108 is located in the engine compartment of the car and is installed on the housing of the drive of auxiliary units (in front of the ignition distributor). It is driven from the camshaft through the cam mechanism and the rod (pusher). The camshaft rotates the eccentric, which transfers the force through the pusher to the balancer in the lower part of the pump housing. The latter raises and lowers the rod with diaphragms. Thus, a vacuum is formed at the inlet of the pump, and pressure at the outlet. Valves located in the device body are responsible for its maintenance.
On the injection VAZ 2108/2109, the gas pump is not a separate device, but an element of the fuel module. It also includes:
The module is located in the vehicle's tank.Its lid (base) is at the top of the container. You can find it by removing the back seat and folding back the carpet.
Structurally, the fuel injection pump VAZ 2108/2109 is an electric motor with an impeller on the shaft, which, while rotating, pumps gasoline, creating a vacuum at the inlet and pressure at the outlet. The pump is powered from the vehicle's on-board network, protected by separate relays and a fuse.
Signs of a fuel pump malfunction are:
difficult engine start;
unstable engine idling;
"Dips" when pressing the accelerator pedal;
decrease in vehicle power.
Important: similar symptoms can be inherent in other malfunctions of the fuel system, as well as the ignition system. Before proceeding with the repair or replacement of the gasoline pump, it should be diagnosed.
Checking a mechanical fuel pump consists in determining its performance, that is, measuring the amount of fuel pumped over a unit of time. And it, according to the characteristics of the device, should be at least one liter per minute. To determine it, you need an assistant, as well as the following tools and means:
a screwdriver with a Phillips bit;
a piece of a fuel hose;
2 empty plastic bottles;
1.5 liters of gasoline;
watch with a stopwatch.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw on the clamp of the outlet fitting, loosen it and remove the fuel hose.
We pour gasoline into a plastic bottle. We lower the free end of the fuel hose (removed from the outlet fitting) into the bottle to the bottom. Through it, gasoline will be sucked into the carburetor when the fuel level in the float chamber drops.
We put the end of the prepared hose on the fuel pump outlet fitting. We lower the other end into an empty bottle.
We ask the assistant to start the engine, start the stopwatch. If the car has a tachometer, stick to 2000 rpm. If it is not there, we focus on hearing.
Further diagnostics should be aimed at identifying a faulty pump element. To carry it out, you need:
a screwdriver with a Phillips bit;
wrenches for 10 and 13;
vernier caliper (ruler).
First of all, we check the operation of the valves. We unscrew the screws of the clamps for securing the fuel hoses on the pump fittings. We remove the hoses. We put our finger (palm) against the outlet, plugging it. We press the manual pumping lever several times. At the same time, the pump should emit chomping sounds, and an air pressure should be felt at the fitting. We check the inlet valve in the same way. The finger, when pressing the pump lever, must be sucked into the fitting. If there is neither outlet pressure nor inlet vacuum, either the valves or the diaphragms are faulty.
The performance of a mechanical fuel pump can be restored if its faulty elements are replaced. You can buy them at any car store. But it is better to buy not individual parts, but a repair kit. It includes all the elements that may fail:
inlet and outlet valves;
diaphragms with spacers, plates, stem;
pusher;
thermal spacer;
gaskets
To replace the pump valves, you will need an impact screwdriver and a small hammer. The valves are held in place by punching at three points. These areas must be carefully knocked down with a screwdriver. The valves can then be removed. Having installed new parts, we fix them by punching. To do this, we put the tip of the screwdriver on the edge of the body along the circumference of the socket and apply a slight blow to it with a hammer. We fix each valve in three places.
To replace the diaphragms, unscrew the nut by 10 at the top of the rod. Next, we remove the damaged elements, and in their place we install the parts from the repair kit.
The set includes three diaphragms: two working diaphragms and one safety diaphragm. The latter serves to prevent unauthorized entry of fuel into the carburetor if the first two are damaged.It is installed at the very bottom of the rod, right after the bottom plate. On top of it, we put spacers on the rod: first a small one, then a large one. We put the working membranes and the upper "plate" on them. We fix the resulting structure with a nut.
The thermal spacer does not need to be replaced unless it is damaged. Inspect its mating surfaces, especially the outer one, to which the lower part of the pump housing is attached. It should be perfectly flat. Otherwise, oil may leak at the junction of parts during engine operation.
The pusher is replaced by removing the old one and installing a new rod in its place. There is no difference in which end where it will be installed.
Now about the gaskets. There are only three of them in the repair kit, and they have different thicknesses:
The first one is intended for installation between the thermal spacer and the drive housing of auxiliary units, and the spacers "B" and "C" are used to adjust the protrusion of the pusher above its mating surface.
The adjustment is made as follows:
We install the thermal spacer with the first gasket and a new rod into the drive housing of the auxiliary units.
At the end of the adjustment, the fuel pump is installed in place and secured with nuts.
Replacing a mechanical pump assembly will take less than half an hour. To implement it, you will need:
key for 13;
a screwdriver with a Phillips bit;
container for draining gasoline.
We unscrew the screws of the clamps of the fuel hoses at the inlet and outlet of the pump unions.
We remove the hoses from the fittings.
Using a 13 key, unscrew the fuel pump mounting nuts.
We dismantle the pump. We drain gasoline from it.
VIDEO
If in "Sputniks" and "Samaras" with carburetor engines, fuel pump malfunctions are associated only with its design, then in injection machines they can also be caused by problems with the power supply of the device.
In order to check if the fuel pump is energized, turn on the ignition without starting the engine and listen. When you turn the key, you should first hear the click of the relay, and then the characteristic "squeal", which is emitted by the working electric motor of the fuel pump. If these sounds are absent, the search for the problem should begin with the pump circuit protectors.
The fuel pump relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block located under the glove compartment. The pump relay (R2) is installed in the middle, and its fuse (F2) is to the left of it.
We check them in this order:
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
We remove the fuse from the socket, "ring" it with a tester. If it is defective, we will replace it.
We connect the terminal to the battery, turn on the ignition without starting the engine. We switch the tester to the voltmeter mode and measure the voltage between the output of the relay, to which the pink wire fits and the "ground". The device should show 12 V. If there is no voltage, the problem must be looked for in the wiring or contact group of the ignition switch. If power is supplied to the relay, use a screwdriver to close the terminal to which the pink wire fits with the terminal connected to the gray wire. So the pump circuit will be closed directly (bypassing the relay). The gas pump has started working - we change the relay, no - we check if the voltage is supplied to the pump itself.
We remove the back seat. We bend the carpet under it, we find the hatch. We unscrew the screws (2 pcs) of its fastening. There is an electrical connector under the hatch. Disconnect it from the pump. We turn on the ignition. With the help of a tester, switched on in the voltmeter mode, we measure the voltage between the "plus" (gray wire) of the pump and its "mass". There is voltage - the problem is in the pump itself, no - the reason should be looked for in the wiring.
If the diagnostics showed that the pump is working, but the above signs of its malfunction are observed, you need to check the fuel pressure in the system. For this you will need:
a pressure gauge with a measurement range of 5-7 atmospheres (a conventional tire is suitable);
a section of a gas-resistant hose with a length of 50 cm and an inner diameter of 10–12 mm;
nipple cap;
2 hose clamps;
dry cloth.
We check the pressure in the following order:
We find a special fitting on the fuel rail. It is located on the right side of the device (when viewed from the car interior).
After making sure that the fuel line is working, you can start replacing the fuel pump. This will require the following tools:
crosshead screwdriver;
slotted screwdriver with a thin tip;
keys for 7, 10, 17.
The order of work is as follows:
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery (key 10).
We open the gas tank cap to reduce the pressure in it.
We remove the back seat, fold back the carpet. We unscrew the 2 screws securing the hatch.
VIDEO
To prevent a malfunction of the fuel pump from taking you by surprise, diagnose it at least once every six months. And in order for it to serve as long as possible, fill the tank with only high-quality fuel.
Hello everyone, I ran into such a problem. Now I moved to a VAZ 21093 (injector). The car stood all winter, in the spring it started and the circle rode, put it on and found a large amount of water at the bottom. I found the leak and eliminated it. It was poured from under the fuse box as it does not press the gasket tightly enough. The reason is a broken mount. After eliminating the leak, I tried to start. Does not start. I realized that the gas pump was not buzzing, the fuel was not being supplied. Dismantled the fuel module (TM), threw 12V on the motor, it works. So it’s not about him. The TM connector includes 4 wires. 2 power supply, as I understand it, one is thrown to the ground and 1 do not know what, maybe a sensor? When the ignition is turned on, 12 V is supplied to the connector, checked with a multimeter. But the motor does not work, but it works directly from the battery. What's the matter ?. I have already broken my whole head, why the gas pump may not work? Help, kind people, who can do what they can.
Hello everyone, I ran into such a problem. Now I moved to a VAZ 21093 (injector). The car stood all winter, in the spring it started and the circle rode, put it on and found a large amount of water at the bottom. I found the leak and eliminated it. It was poured from under the fuse box as it does not press the gasket tightly enough. The reason is a broken mount. After eliminating the leak, I tried to start. Does not start. I realized that the gas pump was not buzzing, the fuel was not being supplied. Dismantled the fuel module (TM), threw 12V on the motor, it works. So it’s not about him. The TM connector includes 4 wires. 2 power supply, as I understand it, one is thrown to the ground and 1 do not know what, maybe a sensor? When the ignition is turned on, 12 V is supplied to the connector, checked with a multimeter. But the motor does not work, but it works directly from the battery. What's the matter ?. I have already broken my whole head, why the gas pump may not work? Help, kind people, who can do what they can.
I don’t understand if the voltage goes to the motor or not? What current? Read what else is there for two wires. If there are 2 wires for power supply, then why another one for ground?
Hello everyone, I ran into such a problem. Now I moved to a VAZ 21093 (injector). The car stood all winter, in the spring it started and the circle rode, put it on and found a large amount of water at the bottom. I found the leak and eliminated it. It was poured from under the fuse box as it does not press the gasket tightly enough. The reason is a broken mount. After eliminating the leak, I tried to start. Does not start. I realized that the gas pump was not buzzing, the fuel was not being supplied. Dismantled the fuel module (TM), threw 12V on the motor, it works. So it’s not about him. The TM connector includes 4 wires. 2 power supply, as I understand it, one is thrown to the ground and 1 do not know what, maybe a sensor? When the ignition is turned on, 12 V is supplied to the connector, checked with a multimeter. But the motor does not work, but it works directly from the battery. What's the matter ?. I have already broken my whole head, why the gas pump may not work? Help, kind people, who can do what they can.
There seems to be one wire plus the fuel pump power supply, one wire plus the fuel level sensor, one mass and another one is also not a sensor
Hello everyone, I ran into such a problem. Now I moved to a VAZ 21093 (injector). The car stood all winter, in the spring it started and the circle rode, put it on and found a large amount of water at the bottom. I found the leak and eliminated it. It was poured from under the fuse box as it does not press the gasket tightly enough. The reason is a broken mount. After eliminating the leak, I tried to start. Does not start. I realized that the gas pump was not buzzing, the fuel was not being supplied. Dismantled the fuel module (TM), threw 12V on the motor, it works. So it’s not about him. The TM connector includes 4 wires. 2 power supply, as I understand it, one is thrown to the ground and 1 do not know what, maybe a sensor? When the ignition is turned on, 12 V is supplied to the connector, checked with a multimeter. But the motor does not work, but it works directly from the battery. What's the matter ?. I have already broken my whole head, why the gas pump may not work? Help, kind people, who can do what they can.
Check the mass, if the mass is bad, then the pump may not work or pump poorly
Hello everyone, I ran into such a problem. Now I moved to a VAZ 21093 (injector). The car stood all winter, in the spring it started and the circle rode, put it on and found a large amount of water at the bottom. I found the leak and eliminated it. It was poured from under the fuse box as it does not press the gasket tightly enough. The reason is a broken mount. After eliminating the leak, I tried to start. Does not start. I realized that the gas pump was not buzzing, the fuel was not being supplied. Dismantled the fuel module (TM), threw 12V on the motor, it works. So it’s not about him. The TM connector includes 4 wires. 2 power supply, as I understand it, one is thrown to the ground and 1 do not know what, maybe a sensor? When the ignition is turned on, 12 V is supplied to the connector, checked with a multimeter. But the motor does not work, but it works directly from the battery. What's the matter ?. I have already broken my whole head, why the gas pump may not work? Help, kind people, who can do what they can.
All 4 wires go to the fuel pump? Hard to believe
It seems that only two wires go to the gas pump itself, check the mass and look for where the wire is broken
Does the pump always run at the same speed?
Can't find a manual for a gas pump for a vase on the Internet?
The principle of operation is the same everywhere, you just need to see which wires go where
Two wires level sensor, + fuel pump and ground. That's all the wires. Most likely the power wire is broken
In general, I replaced all the wires - it worked. Somewhere a wire just broke.
Well, what to change them one at a time, if it is not known which one? You can, of course, by typing, but is it a hunt to mess around?
Well, what to change them one at a time, if it is not known which one? You can, of course, by typing, but is it a hunt to mess around?
You can check each wire separately.
You can check each wire separately.
I just didn't want to mess around. I got a full set of wires - and changed everything without hesitation.
Well, it's more expensive) Of course, you made it easier
If you have a car not for driving, but for pleasure, as in a beer advertisement, then of course you can change one wire at a time)
On the VAZ 2109, signs of a malfunction of the fuel pump can be considered a complete or partial cessation of the supply of fuel to the carburetor, which leads to the impossibility of starting both cold and hot engines. It will first start up, and then stall, in addition to this, unstable idle operation is possible. If you think that the gasoline pump does not work in the VAZ 2109, it will need to be checked. It is quite possible to do it on your own.
Let's start by considering the two most common types of DAAZ and Pekar gasoline pumps. They can be installed on both rear-wheel drive and front-wheel drive vehicles. In order to make sure that all fuel supply systems are working and working properly, you need to do the following:
Remove the gasoline hose and the pressure or original pump union.
Press the manual fuel priming lever several times.
If the fuel pump is working properly, a powerful jet of gasoline begins to flow from the fitting.
If the jet is absent or very weak, a second check should be carried out.
To check the condition of the intake valve:
Disconnect the fuel hose from the intake connector. This will remove both hoses from the two fittings.
After that, plug the suction connection with your finger, press the manual pumping lever several times. You should feel how your finger is sucking on the fitting.
If there is such a feeling, the fuel pump is in good working order. Look for the problem in the gas tank or fuel lines.
Otherwise, the fuel pump on the VAZ 21093 is faulty, it must be disassembled and the inlet valve replaced.
To check the tightness of the intake valve:
Place your finger on the discharge port and press the manual priming lever several times.
A tangible stream of air should come out of the hole of the fitting, which will repel the finger.
If the jet is weak or absent altogether, this indicates that the gas pump is not pumping. It needs to be removed, disassembled and the outlet valve replaced.
If the filter is damaged or clogged:
Remove the cover from the fuel pump, take out the fuel filter, clean it thoroughly and rinse it in gasoline, then blow it with compressed air.
If the filter is deformed, it must be replaced.
In the "Pekar" gasoline pump and other similar pumps, the filter is obtained by unscrewing the suction fitting from the cover, for this reason the cover itself can not be removed.
Remove the upper part of the pump housing.
Pull out its diaphragm assembly.
Unscrew the nut on the stem, then pull out the three diaphragms.
Replace old diaphragms with new ones. To do this, you need a repair kit.
Then reassemble everything in reverse order.
There is only one diaphragm in the Pekar gasoline pump, which is removed after removing the cover.
To detach the diaphragm assembly, it must be rotated 90 degrees.
If the valves are faulty:
Remove the cover from the fuel pump, as well as the strainer.
Inspect the inlet valve and pump cavity.
Remove the upper body and then inspect the outlet valve.
If the valves are not tightly pressed into the body, not tightly pressed or have lost mobility, then the pump should be replaced.
If a blockage is found, they must be removed, and then the body must be blown out with compressed air.
In the Pekar pump, both valves are located in the cover, therefore, to assess their condition, it will need to be removed from the body.
In VAZ 21093, the pump does not work when the pusher is damaged, then:
Remove the fuel pump from the studs by unscrewing the nuts that secure it. Note that the heat-insulating insert, gaskets and pusher remain on the engine.
Rotate the crankshaft so that the pusher is extended to the maximum distance.
Measure how much the pusher protrudes above the plane of the uppermost gasket. The protrusion should be between 0.8 and 1.3 mm.
If the protrusion of the pusher does not correspond to these values, then you can try to adjust it by selecting shims of a smaller or greater thickness or replace the pusher.
Replace only the thickest outer gasket. It is located between the thermal insulation insert and the petrol pump.
You can take a new gasket in a ready-made repair kit or cut it yourself from a piece of paronite.
If the spring under the diaphragm fails:
Remove the upper part of the fuel pump housing, then remove the diaphragm rod and carefully inspect the condition of the spring.
If the spring is broken, deformed or lost its elasticity, it should be replaced with a new one.
Everyone knows that all car parts have a certain resource. Thus, the "nine" fuel pump, like any other part, sooner or later fails. He stops pumping gasoline regularly. The following instructions will help you figure out the problem.
It should be said that on the VAZ 2109, the problems are not always the same:
In order to understand how a working pump works and check its operation, you need to know its characteristics:
VIDEO
The stem length should be 82.4 mm.
The stem should protrude 0.8 - 1.3 mm above the gasket.
The thickness of the very first spacer should be 0.3 mm.
The stroke is 2.5 - 2.8 mm.
A few helpful tips:
Note that on vehicles that have a return line, a too large relief port may be the cause of the problem, as most of the pressure is relieved by the return line.
If the pump installed on your car cannot be adjusted, it will have to be replaced.
Today the market sells a wide variety of pump models for VAZ from various manufacturers.
Approach the purchase very responsibly so as not to buy a fake. Choose a branded store and a reliable manufacturer. Purchase only those models of gasoline pumps that are recommended by the VAZ plant.
The best option would be to contact an official dealer of VAZ spare parts in your region. This will allow you to quickly get the part you want without worrying about it being of poor quality. Thus, you do not have to look for and buy another gasoline pump.
In order to properly remove the fuel pump, you must perform the following sequence of actions:
Video (click to play).
Thus, you have outlined detailed instructions for removing and disassembling a gas pump, which will help you carry out this operation yourself. You can finish here, you shouldn't have any difficulties.
