Do-it-yourself Ural chainsaw repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Ural chainsaw repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

During the operation of the Ural-2T Electron chainsaw, malfunctions occur for various reasons that must be eliminated. Malfunctions appear in most cases due to improper operation and can be corrected by hand. The article Chainsaw Ural, repair and operation is devoted to such typical problems that you can fix yourself, on your own.

Let us consider below some of them, the most serious at first glance (which I had to face during almost 15 years of using this tool), but easily removable on my own.

Such as, starter repair or adjustment chainsaw ignition, adjustment and device carburetor , replacement of the repair kit.

I purchased this tool in 1999, and until now the tool works for me correctly. And so, the first characteristic reason for which the engine does not work as needed is the use of poor quality fuel.

The second reason is when too much oil is mixed with fuel to operate the chainsaw. As a result, the engine does not provide the required power because:

1.The piston rings are burnt in the piston grooves, or the piston ring is fractured.

2. The piston with piston rings as well as the cylinder are heavily soiled with carbon deposits.

To eliminate this problem, you need to disassemble the chainsaw.

Photo-1.Remove the cylinder from the chainsaw body.

To do this, unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder to the body. Carefully remove the cylinder from the piston rings and carefully inspect the piston, rings and cylinder.

Photo-2 Carbon deposits on the piston and piston grooves.

Traces of heavy carbon deposits are visible on the piston and piston grooves, which must be removed, and carbon deposits are also present on the inside of the cylinder.

Photo-3. Removing the piston rings from the piston.

To remove carbon deposits from the piston grooves, the piston rings must be removed from the piston. The rings and piston are usually soaked in kerosene or gasoline until the carbon is softened. Broken or badly worn rings should be replaced with new ones.

Photo-4. Removing carbon deposits from the piston.

A wooden stick or rag can be used to remove carbon deposits from the piston, but not metal objects.

Photo-5. Removal of carbon deposits from the piston grooves.

Video (click to play).

To remove carbon deposits from the piston grooves, you should also use non-metallic objects. After removing carbon deposits or replacing the piston rings, reassemble the chainsaw in the reverse order.

Another reason for a chainsaw malfunction may be severe wear of the ratchet, which is installed on the flywheel bushing of the chainsaw crankshaft. As a result of such a malfunction, it is not possible to start the chainsaw engine, since the starter ratchet does not cling to the chainsaw ratchet. To do this, disassemble the deflector, remove the crankcase cover, then unscrew the ratchet and replace with a new one.

To remove the deflector, it is necessary to unscrew all its fastening nuts. But first, you must remove the frame with the gas tank, disconnect the gearbox from the engine, and also disconnect the gas line from the carburetor.

Photo-7. Removing the crankcase cover.

In order to remove the crankcase cover, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening bolts, then pull the cover carefully towards you.
Photo-8. Unscrewing the ratchet.

To remove the ratchet, it is necessary to block the rotation of the engine crankshaft. This can be achieved by locking the friction clutch on the crankshaft from the back (from the gearbox side).

The ratchet can be unscrewed easily, for this use a wrench. All parts (deflector, crankcase cover) are assembled in the reverse order. That is, first put the crankcase cover in place and secure, then install and secure the deflector.

If, while cutting a chainsaw, the gearbox makes a grinding or other extraneous sound, then it is necessary to disassemble and inspect it. It is possible that one of the two bevel gears of the gearbox is out of order. The gearbox should be disassembled from the side of the drive sprocket of the saw chain.

Photo-10. Removing the leading sprocket.
For more detailed information on the rules of operation and methods of disassembling the chainsaw, download the instruction.

In order to remove the driving sprocket of the saw chain, unscrew the fastening nut and pull the sprocket towards you. The sprocket should be carefully inspected, in case of severe wear, replace with a new one.

Photo-11.Dismantling the driven bevel gear.

To dismantle the driven bevel gear of the reducer, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening nuts and pull the gear housing towards you.

Photo-12. Replacing the driven bevel gear.

The driven bevel gear of the reducer is inserted into an aluminum housing with a bearing. If necessary, disassemble the entire structure and replace worn parts or replace the entire structure.

In the event of increased noise during the operation of the chainsaw, this may mean that the muffler has been destroyed. In such cases, the muffler should be replaced.

To replace the muffler of the chainsaw, unscrew the two M6 fastening nuts with a wrench, then unscrew the two M5 screws.

Photo-14. Unscrew the M 5 screw for the muffler.

Use a screwdriver to unscrew the two M 6 screws.

During the operation of the tool, it is very likely that the following problem may occur:

The engine starts with difficulty or normally, but it does not work stably, intermittently. There are several probable reasons in such situations, we list the most basic ones a little below:

1. Poor quality fuel or water got into the fuel.

2. Due to low-quality fuel, the carburetor clogged, from frequent attempts to start the engine, the spark plug was moistened with fuel and a lot of fuel accumulated in the crankcase.

3. Leakage in the joints between the cylinder and the crankcase, and leaks between the carburetor and the cylinder may also occur.

4. Rarely, but still happens-depressurization of the crankcase of the chainsaw.

The methods for eliminating such causes are as follows:

If the reason is low-quality fuel, then all residues of poor-quality fuel should be drained from the gas tank.disassemble carburetor, clean the carburetor mesh filter from debris and reassemble it, reinstall it. Adjust the carburetor as follows:

1. Tighten the carburetor full throttle screw as far as it will go and then turn it back 1/2 turn.

2. Tighten the idle screw as far as it will go, then back out one turn.

The leakage of the connection between the cylinder and the crankcase or the carburetor with the body of the chainsaw is eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts. Unscrew the spark plug and dry and clean. Gasoline from the crankcase must be blown out as follows:

Close the fuel valve, then unscrew the spark plug, install the starter and pull out the starter cable, then release it back. This operation is repeated many times until all the fuel accumulated in the crankcase is blown out (fuel is ejected through the spark plug hole on the cylinder).

Photo-15. Disassembly of the driving clutch.

To restore the tightness of the crankcase of the chainsaw, it is necessary to disassemble it. To do this, the first step is to disassemble the drive clutch.

Photo-16. Removing the bearing cover.

In order to remove the bearing cover, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening nuts without damaging the gasket. Then remove the adjusting ring that is installed between the bearing and the cover.

Photo-17. Dismantling the engine crankcase.

We continue dismantling, it is necessary to unscrew five nuts from the studs and disconnect the left side of the crankcase from the right side.

In this case, as a rule, the gasket always fails, since it is paper. Next, you should draw another gasket on drawing paper, then lubricate it with oil and install it back on the studs.

Photo-19.Installation of a new gasket on the studs.

We install a new gasket made of drawing paper on the crankcase mounting studs, then take it out and grease it with oil.

Photo-20.Connection of the left side of the crankcase to the right.

After that, we install it back on the studs, then we install the second part of the crankcase and fasten it with fastening nuts. The disassembly of the engine crankcase is performed not only when it is necessary to replace the gasket, but also when the worn out bearings, as well as the connecting rod and piston group are replaced. chainsaw Ural

Ural Electron 2T Operation manual
Hello everyone! By the will of fate, he became the owner of the Ural Electron gas-powered saw. Thanks to the five same will of fate, the operating manual of this tool was lost. Gentlemen, does anyone have an electronic version of this document, or, at worst, can someone describe the procedure for adjusting the idle speed, the initial position of the throttle valve?[RIGHT] ————-
Operating instructions are in the posts and [/ RIGHT]In my "Ural" I regulate the speed of h.h. by changing the length of the damper cable. Those. coarse adjustment I unscrew the screw holding the cable and pull or loosen it with my hands; for fine adjustment there is a stop screw near the throttle grip.Dmitry, thank you, I understood you. But it seems to me that I still have to turn two screws to achieve the desired quality of the air-gasoline mixture: the spark plug electrodes are blackening, which indicates a rich mixture. How to proceed here?Quadruple I had "Friendship electron". From memory, I just twisted the jets all the way, and then twisted them 1.5 turns. He started and already twisted XX (if necessary). I think that in the Urals as well. Well, if you want to know more precisely, contact any major service center and they will explain.The four-breeder wrote:
... the spark plug electrodes are blackening - which indicates a rich mixture.For a two-stroke, this is normal - a mixture of gasoline and oil 🙂Father-in-law gave a Ural 2T chainsawAdvise how to be. Father-in-law gave (gave) a saw Ural 2T Electron (1987 century) with the words drank sons-in-law for health, buy only a magneto and work. Brought the saw for 400 km. from the village (I want to cut firewood in the garden). I bought a magneto, put it on - do not start, sneezes and tugs at the hand so well (gives it to the side opposite to the cranking motion with the starter). Well, I think the ignition timing needs to be adjusted. Results - he pulls the hand earlier, then later. I have a question. How does it start? Or I'm doing something wrong.2Hmel Read first here
” >Was reading. I installed this ignition according to the book that my father-in-law gave - no result. The whole problem is contactless ignition. On a motorcycle, everything is simple - brought it to top dead center, lowered it by 3 mm, made a break in the breaker, everything works. And in contactless ignition, how to find out at what moment a spark occurs.2Hmel There should be a mark (dash) on the magneto, on the motor case too.Here's what they have written:
“At the factory, when setting the ignition timing against risk 7 (Fig. 4), risk 7 is placed on the magneto on the crankcase (Fig. 4). When installing the magneto after replacing it, after routine or repair work during the operation of the chainsaw, combine the indicated risks. "IMXO if nothing else is violated, then this will lead to an advance = 3.9 mm.You can reduce this lead to, say, 3-2 mm by turning the magneto in the grooves, but by doing so we lose power.And the recoil can be due to many reasons.Can you weakly (slowly) pull the starter rope?
Or maybe there is soot on your finger on the piston?
Or maybe the keyway is broken?
And the candle in what condition (gap, changed, did not change), gasoline and so on and so forth.
It may even be that this magneto is (in our time, what they want to vparyat). Image - DIY Ural chainsaw repair

In general, there is too little information for more specific advice.

2Hmel In my practice there was once a similar case. Only when the engine gave a return - cotton and smoke fells from all sides (both from the carburetor and from under the crankcase too), although it used to start. It turned out that the pin on the piston, which keeps the ring from turning, has loosened, and since it is opposite the bypass window, it has hollowed out a groove in this window with a length of about 6-8 mm. Yes, plus an underworked piston, as a result, the bypass window opened before the exhaust. I suffered - horror, but I won.

Examine the cylinder from the inside, maybe the dog rummaged there? Put a thick sheet of paper in there (along the height of the cylinder) and circle all the windows with a piece of pencil - you will get a scan of the cylinder, then compare it with a piston. That's how I defined this byaka then. There will be difficulties - take a picture of the scan and put it here, maybe I can advise something else.

And also look: the piston in the connecting rod does not play much? How do the rings feel there (especially the top one)?
And try the compression just in case.

As a version: you have a flash very early, because of this, it throws the piston immediately back and, accordingly, jerks the hand. - Draw conclusions: either the magneto is not right, or you put it wrong - the angle is not the right one. The flash should not be very early, otherwise the piston will not pass the dead center.

Thank you, there are two days off ahead, I'll watch. Research results on Monday

Maybe all the same there are magnets on the flywheel. I haven't come across them myself, but I heard them. but what if?
And the link mentioned them.
By the way, I have never heard that boring grooves on the ignition block saved someone

Chainsaws "Ural" have been known for more than half a century: their production began in 1955 at the Perm plant, which had worked for the country's military-industrial complex for many years. Until now, their popularity has not faded: demand still remains high despite the abundance of new foreign brands. Some do not want to overpay: the purchase of the Ural chainsaw is more budgetary than similar devices from leading European manufacturers. The same applies to their maintenance, repairs, which save the family budget.

But most of the users of these chainsaws appreciate the traditional quality, which has been tested over decades of service by more than one generation of people.

We will get acquainted with the features of the legendary saws of this manufacturer, their structure and functionality, as well as with the nuances of maintenance and repair, in this article.

Chainsaws "Ural" - the successors of another famous brand "Druzhba", which are considered its improved counterparts. Compared to Druzhba chainsaws, they have:

high power;
gear equipment;
removable container for chain lubrication - crankcase;
improved cylinder and starter;
easily removable cutting part of the saw;
upper handle composition;
Hydraulic wedge has been added to the construct.

While there are many advantages to this technique, it is not without its drawbacks. The main ones are:

a large amount of toxic exhaust;
frequent clogging of the air filter;
high gas mileage;
from here come frequent problems with the engine and gear part

Consider the range of gasoline saws from this manufacturer.

Gasoline hand tools designed specifically for tough working conditions and tasks of increased complexity.

The device of the Ural 2t Electron chainsaw is quite simple. The main working details are:

engine;
starter;
reducer;
switch;
cutting headset;
gas tank.

There is also a steering wheel and an element on which the structure can be supported.

Technical features of the chainsaw "Ural" 2t Electron

2-stroke engine that consumes 632 ml of fuel per hour of operation;
high power - 3.68 kW;
46 cm tire with detachable chain;
heavy weight - 11.7 kg.

A productive model with improved functionality.The inertial chain brake and chain stroke in auto mode simplify the operator's tool maintenance tasks.

propulsion thrust - 3.9 kW;
capacious gas tank - 0.55 l;
volumetric oil sump - 265 ml;
maximum bus length - 0.45 m.

Sufficiently compact and lightweight chain chainsaw. Decent semi-professional unit, adapted for medium loads.

It differs from other modifications:

thrust of 3.8 kW;
large tanks for fuel and chain oil - 0.62 and 0.25 liters;
standard chain pitch - 3/8;
long bus - 35-45 cm;
light weight - 6.89 kg.

Professional-grade petrol power tool. Features improved grip, chain brake and power button lock function.

Users note that this model of the Ural chainsaw breaks down less often than others and requires repair.

Industrial grade chain saw. Forces of 5.1 hp enough for all woodworking.

Gasoline tank - 0.55 l;
Carter - 0.25 L;
Tire - 45 cm;
Weight - 7.8 kg.

It is advisable to begin acquaintance with such a technique with the instruction manual. Covers such issues:

the internal structure of chainsaws;
the nuances of refueling;
running-in and rules for starting the engine;
preparation of the device for sawing;
care and storage;
safety standards.

Let us dwell on some of them that can be encountered in the process of using Ural chainsaws.

Resourceful people have long figured out how to convert their outdated Ural models to 92 gasoline. To do this, you need to lower the octane number of AI-92 or AI-95 gasoline by adding 70 g of diesel fuel to one tank of the fuel mixture. The engine practically does not feel the difference with such an additive and operates normally.The proportion for the gas-oil mixture should be as follows: 50 ml of engine oil (preferably not for mopeds) per 1 liter of gasoline.A serviceable and filled instrument can be started. For this you need: