Every motorist should be able to find and repair punctures on his own. It is much cheaper and faster than calling a specialist. But it is not always possible to find a puncture site in tubeless tires. The exception is the protruding caps of screws or nails.
Do not get rid of foreign bodies in the tire. Unlike chamber products, tubeless ones lose air for an extremely long time. Better to get to the parking lot or garage, and already carry out repair work. Photo: my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1335
It is not always possible to quickly determine the puncture site of tubeless tires. It is best to wet the tire with water. Protruding bubbles will indicate the puncture site (just like in the photo below). If you are on the road and do not have water with you, you can use an anti-freeze liquid designed for washing windows.
This simple trick will help determine the puncture site in a tubeless tire. Photo:>
The most important advantage of tubeless tires is the ability to plug a puncture with a rubber band. No need to disassemble or remove the wheel. It is only necessary to turn the steering wheel to the side, and then raise the vehicle with a jack. Finding such a tourniquet on sale will not be difficult.
The most common option is to use a cord harness. It is based on nylon fiber impregnated with sticky butyl rubber. To install the harness, you must use a spiral and introductory (installation) awl. With the help of the first, a through puncture is carried out. Rotating it clockwise, you should clean the place of dirt. The awl significantly widens the channel, pushing apart the wires of the metal cord. However, they are not damaged.
The tourniquet must be threaded into the hole of the adjusting awl. The spiral product must be pushed out of the puncture, while the awl with a tourniquet must be pushed at a distance of 3-4 centimeters. Pulling out the awl, the tourniquet will remain in place. However, the excess must be cut off (about 2-3 millimeters should remain above the protector). The wheel needs to be pumped up and you can safely hit the road.
Rubber bands with an adhesive sheath are considered extremely reliable. Photo: pqautoservices.com
The technology is extremely similar to cord products, but there are certain peculiarities. Using the awl as a rasp is highly discouraged. This is due to the fact that the awl does not fit between the metal cord threads. It cuts them off, while during installation, the tourniquet is cut into sharp ends.
You can replace the straight introductory awl with a product that has a side exit.
The basis of such products is nylon cord. Outside, the tourniquet has a special adhesive layer. Photo:>
Installation is carried out in the same way as conventional rubber models. The glue should be used according to the instructions.
Reinforced tourniquets are slightly more expensive than rubber ones, but they are more durable, reliable and durable. However, they do not provide an eternal guarantee.
Repairing tubeless tires can be done with a sealant. Photo:
Each balloon has instructions for use. If it is absent, or not translated into Russian, you should adhere to the following recommendations and rules:
You can get rid of small punctures with a universal patch. Remove the tire from the wheel, and then glue the hole from the inside. If the puncture has a diameter of more than 6 millimeters, you can get rid of it with the help of a special “leg” or “fungus”. These materials can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
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The highest quality tubeless tire repair is the insert often referred to as the “anchor”. This product greatly enhances the tread tread. "Anchor" is made of porous rubber, which is reinforced with a special adhesive layer.
To prepare a tire puncture, you must use a special cutter with a diameter of 6 millimeters. It has no effect on the cord. Whereas for installation, an awl with a side exit is used. The reliability and service life of a tire directly depends on the exact adherence to the technology of repair work.
The advantage of such repair methods is the speed of execution and the low cost of products. However, you can get rid of the puncture only by removing the tire from the wheel, which is not always possible on the road (with the exception of the anchor).
The choice of a method for repairing tubeless tires directly depends on the specific case and the availability of materials, as well as special tools. Vehicle location, driver training and skills play a big role.
In ancient times, there was GOST 5170-73 "First aid kits for the repair of pneumatic tires." What components were not in these first-aid kits! And the fungus, and the grater with the plaster, and the roller ... And now each manufacturer decides for himself what to put in his set.
Let's check what the descendants of those travel first aid kits are capable of. The editorial office of Grant pushed for decisive action, one of the wheels of which expired. Instead of a tire service, we visited several shops where we purchased 16 different tubeless tire repair kits. The range of prices is sevenfold, although the principle of operation is the same. After detecting a puncture, you need to remove the culprit of the trouble (self-tapping screw, nail), then expand the hole and tightly insert the folded rubber flagellum into it. The nuances of technology and tools may vary, but in general, the repair algorithm is just that.
Having repaired the tire, which met a self-tapping screw on the road, we decided to test all 16 repair kits on the poor thing. However, in the end, only 13 stabbing wounds were inflicted on her, since three sets were rejected at once: the flagella in them are frankly bad, instantly tearing in their hands.
The tools also vary quite a bit. So, the nice handle in the CityUp CA-793 set managed to turn against the tip at the very first attempt to get inside the tire.
Note that in some kits, no "picks" are provided, and in some places there is no glue. And the names of the tools are different for almost all manufacturers - in the explanations we give exactly the "proprietary" version.
A tire with so many holes in the tread has passed the test at speeds of over a hundred for a couple of weeks without losing a drop of precious air. For the sake of experiment, we didn't even cut a few ponytails - and we all resisted. A small puncture in the sidewall was also managed with the help of a flagellum. Although the reliability of sealing is noticeably lower than in the case when the harness is kept in a thick (even for a worn tire) tread layer.
At the close of the curtain, another test was carried out - a kind of "everyday" test: they pierced the sidewall of the tire, like some bully with a knife or a screwdriver. We were no longer engaged in comparative tests, but simply fought for survivability. By the way, the same damage occurs, for example, when the tire contacts the curb or the sharp edge of the pit. Such a temporary repair is a priori more difficult: the sidewall is thinner than the tread, and therefore it is more difficult for the flagellum to stay in the hole.
Equipment: spiral awl, harness installation tool, raw rubber strips (5 pieces), adhesive activator
The spiral awl destroys the cord - when installing, you can hear the cracking of breaking threads. However, the repaired wheel runs successfully.
Equipment: tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eyelet, reinforced cords (5 pieces), glue
The beautiful handle of the rasp immediately turned - the set can be removed from the test. Okay, we took an analogue of a "pick" from a different set ... As a result, the wheel was repaired, but it wouldn’t turn out to be advised to buy such a first-aid kit.
Equipment: twisted tip tool, eye tool, wet rubber activator, wet rubber strips (8 pieces), cutter
The spiral awl is good, the handles are comfortable. Note the presence of a cutter in the kit - in other kits it is not. I liked the first aid kit, but a little expensive.
Equipment: tool with twisted tip, tool with eyelet, glue-activator for raw rubber, rubber cords (3 pieces)
I didn’t like the picker: it was tearing the cord. But the wheel was still repaired.
Equipment: tool with twisted tip, tool with eyelet, glue-activator for wet rubber, harnesses (5 pieces)
A tool with a hole such as the eye of a needle has a groove too wide. Nevertheless, the kit passed the test.
Equipment: a tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eyelet for installing a harness, reinforced harnesses (5 pieces), glue
An inexpensive set coped with the task successfully, demonstrating the best value for money.
Equipment: rasp for cleaning and shaping a hole, an awl with an eyelet, reinforced cords (5 pieces), glue
The handle is sloppy. The glue feels very runny. However, it works.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, wet rubber activator, black tapered plugs (6 pieces)
The stepped "wedges" broke almost immediately. Fail.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, raw rubber strips (10 pieces), adhesive activator
The set failed pretty quickly: weak unreinforced strips of raw rubber tore at the first attempt to push them into the workplace with the supplied tool. Doesn't matter!
Equipment: pressure gauge, rasp, eye tool, repair harnesses (10 pieces), glue, 4 caps, 4 spools, universal wrench for valve thread cleaning, 10 camera patches
The most expensive, but also the most complete kit in our selection. The kit coped with the puncture. However, the tool is inconvenient. And not everyone will need most of the content.
Equipment: rasp, needle tool, repair strips (3 pieces), glue
The glue is liquid, like water. But the wheel was repaired pretty quickly.
Equipment: a tool for stripping and forming a hole, an awl with an eyelet for harnesses, harnesses for repair (5 pieces)
There is no glue in the kit. However, the set has fulfilled its direct function.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, long black "self-vulcanizing" cords (4 pieces)
There is no glue in the set. The tourniquets look very thin. There is no tool for preparing a hole in the set - you have to act immediately with a "needle". However, we have sealed the hole.
Equipment: tool with eyelet, wet rubber activator, tapered red plugs (6 pieces)
The red "gags" of the stepped shape break even before they are inserted into the tire. Fail.
Equipment: spiral file, awl with eyelet, bundles (3 pieces), glue
An inexpensive set did the job successfully.
Equipment: tool with file tip, tool with eyelet, green rubber bands (5 pieces), adhesive activator
The tip of the pick tool is too thin. But the wheel was repaired.
Of these sets, we single out the Titan T-609 for 130 rubles - at an affordable price, it is equipped with a set of tools that did not cause any complaints from us.
Separately, we note the DoneDeal DD0320 for 540 rubles - the only set in which a cutter is provided to cut the ends of the bundles sticking out of the tire. If not for the price, he would be a champion.
The most general recommendations are as follows: the flagella should be thick and reinforced, the "pick" should not be too "toothy", but glue is still needed.
Determine the puncture site. If an external examination does not help, we immerse the wheel in water or, at worst, douse it with water to detect air bubbles. Sometimes for this you need to increase the pressure to 2-3 bar. Having found a puncture, we mark it. Using the pliers, we extract the culprit.
We take the tool [1] for stripping and holes (in common parlance - "pick"), install it in the puncture site and release the handle - by the angle of inclination we are trying to determine the direction of the puncture.
We apply a layer of glue to the surface of the "pick" (if it is present in the repair kit) and first screw it all the way into the tire, and then pull it out. The operation must be repeated two to three times. On the last pass, leave the tool in the recessed position.
We take the tourniquet and install it in the eyelet of the awl (also called the “needle”). We apply glue to the surface of the bundle.
We take out the tool for stripping and shaping and quickly drive an awl with a tourniquet into the hole [2] ... The ends of the bundle must always remain on the surface.
We take out the awl - the tourniquet should remain in the hole.
The tire is the same, inside view [3] ... Filmed with a hidden camera ...
We inflate the wheel and check the tightness with water or at least by ear.
Cut off the ends of the bundle sticking out from the outside, flush with the tire tread surface [4] .
Use only "classic" filaments reinforced with synthetic threads. Outwardly, they resemble a twisted rope impregnated with a rubber-like compound. Do not use tapered plugs or strips without reinforcement, otherwise you will cry.
It is advisable to choose a "pick" with a T-shaped handle. Otherwise, corns are guaranteed.
We do not recommend using sharp, rasp cleaners for repairs. They almost always break the cord.
Before starting the repair, the wheel must be pumped up to at least 0.5–1.0 bar.
If you doubt the quality of your repair, move the repaired wheel back.
If a puncture is found while driving, and it is impossible to carry out immediate repairs, do not rush to remove the nail or self-tapping screw sticking out of the tire. While it is in place, the tire will not deflate as quickly. It is better to pump up the punctured wheel from time to time before the start of a full repair.
Remember that with the glue included in the kit, the installation of the flagella is easier and the chances of a long service life are higher.
If the kit has been lying in the trunk for a long time and the glue has dried, you can use gasoline (but not diesel fuel) instead.
We wish everyone that our advice will never come in handy! Bon Voyage!
Before starting to repair a tire, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the section “Why the tire is deflated”, in which you can find out which tires are on your car - tubeless tires or with a tube. You will also learn about the various reasons due to which the wheel usually loses pressure.
When a not very thick (up to 5 mm) foreign object gets into the tread of a tubeless tire, it is quite simple. And you, if you wish, can do it yourself. And sometimes it is possible to do self-repair of tires without even removing the wheels from the car!
For this we need tubeless tire repair kit . This repair kit includes: a tool for preparing a puncture hole in rubber for repair, a tool for installing the so-called harness into the hole, the harnesses themselves for tire repair and a knife for cutting the harness. Sometimes the knife is included, but in most cases it is not included. The knife must be very sharp! This is important, since the bundles themselves have a base reinforced with strong fibers, and it is almost impossible to cut it off with a blunt knife. For these purposes, a clerical knife is ideal, as in the picture.
These tire repair kits are not very expensive and cost from 100 to 500 rubles, depending on the configuration. Sometimes a tube of glue (or vulcanizing agent) is included in the kit, but most kits do not provide one and will not affect the final result.
In this case, this is a good tool of the American brand Victor (model V110) for 450 rubles (there is no knife in the kit). The tire has many layers, including a metal cord under the tread, so the repair tool must be highly durable. And if you buy some kind of fake, you simply cannot pierce the durable tire tread and prepare a hole for the harness. As in any other business, a good tool and good materials are the key to success when repairing a tire.
But let's take a closer look at these larger repair tools.
The hole preparation tool is essentially a round file with a sharp point and a comfortable handle, made of very strong hardened steel. With its help, the puncture hole is enlarged to the required size so that a tourniquet can be inserted into it. Note the special cut at the bottom of the harness insertion tool. It serves so that after installing the sealing harness in the tire, removing the tool itself from the tire, the harness slips into this cut and remains in the tire. The harnesses themselves are made of "raw rubber", reinforced with special durable fibers.
Tool handles come in a variety of shapes, including those with a handle similar to that of a regular screwdriver. But since the effort that needs to be made to work with the tire is quite large, it is better to buy a repair tool with handles like in these pictures.
1. First of all, you need to find you need to find the exact puncture site. If a nail or other foreign object sticks out there, then remove it and be sure to mark this place with chalk or a marker. Otherwise, it can be very difficult to find it later.
Attention! Do not try to repair old-style wheels with a camera in this way. It's completely useless! Externally, a tubeless wheel and a wheel with a tube can be distinguished by the “nipple” of the nipple. In a tire with a tube, in the absence of pressure in it, the nipple can easily be pushed into the tire. And in tubeless tires, it is held tightly by a special rubber bump with a rim at the base of the nipple, which can be seen when looking closely at the wheel (see the tubeless page for details).
2. Remove dirt and carefully inspect the damaged area. Evaluate if the harnesses can plug the hole. If the hole is too large (more than 5 mm), you will have to go to the tire shop to install a special “fungus” inside the tire for repairing the tire. In a situation where the puncture hole on the tire is large and you do not have a tire workshop nearby, but you need to “get there”, then you can try to insert not one, but two bundles into the tire at once. This method is not recommended for use, but sometimes it can help you out on the road.
3. Next, release the pressure in the tire before repair to about 0.5 atmosphere (in order to relieve stress in the tire structure and not spoil the cord) and, twisting, insert a tool into the puncture hole to prepare (enlarge) this hole. Rotating the tool around its axis, insert it into the tire several times and remove it back. A hole must be created in the tire large enough to accommodate the harness.
4. Insert one harness for repair into the hole of the tool to install it approximately in the middle (if there is a glue / activator in the kit, then coat the harness with a thin layer). Then insert the repair tool with the tourniquet about two-thirds of the way into the prepared hole. And then carefully pull out the repair tool so that the harness stays in the tire.
The main thing in this repair process is to control the length of the harness. So that you can be sure that, based on the length of those parts of the harness that stick out from the outside of the tire, there should also be some part of it sticking out inside the tire (as in the left illustration above). It is wrong to repair a tire with a tourniquet in one layer (as in the picture on the right), since the diameter of the tool for preparing the hole is designed specifically for the thickness of the tourniquet, in two layers.
5. Now it remains to inflate the tire and check if it is leaking air at the place where the tire was repaired. If the tire continues to deflate in this place, then you need to repeat the entire operation to repair the tire again. If everything is done correctly, then at this point the tire will never deflate until it is completely worn out.
After you have made sure that the tire will not deflate, carefully cut off the protruding pieces of the tourniquet. Be careful, during this operation, protect your fingers from cuts!
In addition to its simplicity, this method is also very convenient in that since the harness itself weighs almost nothing, after repairing the tire, there is no need to do additional balancing of the wheel. That, in fact, is all. Check the pressure in the tire and now, after repair, it is ready for further work.
Video (click to play).
You can select and buy tire repair kits and compressors in the sections of our store:
Tire Repair Kits
Compressors
You can find out more information about the repair from our specialists by phone: 995-80-40
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