Hp cordless mouse repair

Computer mouse - probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and giving various commands to the computer. Over time, this device has various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often jams, the mouse wheel (scroll) is scrolled, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.

Let's look at the DIY repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!

The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired by hand. If you know how to handle a soldering iron at least a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimum set of tools:

Now there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (3 or more), and the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which will be enough for most users.

We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws only hold the back of the mouse. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed by means of special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to lift it slightly by the freed back part and slowly pull it towards you. You can still press a little more on it from the front, but the main thing is not very hard, otherwise you will break! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them in place:

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small PCB underneath, which is usually only fixed on small plastic pins (although it could be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to remove the printed circuit board from it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots).

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor movement twitches or disappears, if one of the wires is frayed or cut off somewhere (if, of course, the mouse is wired).

A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Color scheme for wiring mouse wires

Nutrition - red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).

Receiving data - white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).

Data transfer - green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).

Land - black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can unambiguously judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer twisting 🙂 I will give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately hover the cursor at a certain point. It constantly shivers and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table.

To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order.

In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Optical sensor of a computer mouse

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it out to blow out fine dust that may adhere when it gets wet. After that, gently, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the hole of the sensor. After making a couple of turns and not stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts to clean, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can remove the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.

It so happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which slippage of the axle will be observed in the problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then a breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could loosen and it should be slightly compacted:

Pressing the mouse scroll mechanism latches

To do this, take small pliers and, in turn, press them down on the four metal brackets that attach the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time squeeze harder. Try plugging in your mouse and see if the negative effect of scrolling has diminished after each press. Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks.Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery packaging and stuck it inside the mechanism:

A seal inserted inside the mouse scroll mechanism

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

There are several more options:

• disassemble and clean the mechanism;
• replace the mechanism with a different mouse (with a different malfunction).

Any button has its own resource of clicks. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. The broken button is practically not repaired in any way, but it can be replaced from another mouse.

Bottom view of soldered mouse button microswitch

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. This symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch or poor contact inside the contact pad switch.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to fill the washed area with a drop of epoxy resin or molten plastic. At the same time, while the switch is disassembled, you can clean the contact group.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called bounce of contacts. You can solve this matter by re-soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!

In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

Standard mouse properties as they should be

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.

Mouse - one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this.

The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.

(Household electrical appliances do not use electricity in the same way. Tips for repairing household appliances)

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If a computer mouse breaks, many users don't know how to get on with it. The session ends and the search for a new device begins or the restoration of the broken thing to work. With basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to work with a soldering iron, you can repair your wireless mouse very quickly. Consider a step-by-step method for determining the causes of a device malfunction and restoring its resource.

In most cases, the cause of the malfunction will not be critical, because modern laser mice are made from reliable electronic components.

Loss of functionality can occur due to:

• damage to the USB connector of the computer;
• poor-quality contact in the power and control parts of the board;
• breakdown of an electronic element;
• breakdown of microswitches.

Before starting work, it is necessary to pull out the wireless module from the computer, set the mouse switch to the “off” position and remove the battery. It would be nice to check the battery right away. If everything is in order with her, then we proceed to repair the mouse.

To determine the health of a computer's USB, it is enough to connect a USB flash drive or keyboard to it. If a sync signal appears on the monitor screen, the port is operational. To check the status of the wireless unit with a USB connector, you need to connect similar test leads of the tester, which is in the diode test mode, to the plus and minus inputs of the plug. If the multimeter displays figures from 500 - 700 Ohm, then the module is operational. Of course, this method only indirectly determines the state of the device and does not guarantee one hundred percent confirmation of its serviceability.

To inspect the electronic components of the mouse, you need to disassemble its case. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the fasteners, which are located either under the battery or under the sticker with the device parameters. Then, using a flat-tipped screwdriver, separate the latches located under the left and right mouse buttons.

Visually or using a device, the following are checked:
- food stamps for the presence of oxide and deformation;
- the reliability of fastening and the integrity of the connecting wires on the stamps and the circuit board;
- electronic parts for external damage.

All identified defects are eliminated. A working mouse should have a resistance measured at the power outputs by the tester in the diode test mode, from 400 to 600 ohms. If the readings are equal to one, then there is an open circuit in the circuit, if zero - a short circuit (short circuit).

If it breaks, use tweezers to shake all the components on the board. Perhaps, in some node there is a violation of the soldered connection. In case of a short circuit with a tester, check the simple elements of the board (resistors, capacitors, diodes). In ohmmeter mode, the resistor value is determined. In the position of checking semiconductor devices - diodes and capacitors. The LED can be easily checked by connecting a 1.5 volt power supply to its outputs (by disconnecting it from the board) through a resistor and directing the lens of the phone, which is in the shooting mode. If the photodiode is working properly, then you will see a faint glow on the screen.

In most cases, the listed activities should help you repair your mouse. In the rest, the breakdown will be hidden in the microcontroller.

(1 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

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https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2133/2017/04/13701/ https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2133/wp-content/ uploads / 2017/04 / Repair-wireless-mouse-1024 × 783.jpg https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2133/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Repair-wireless -mice-150 × 150.jpg 2017-04-28T12: 21: 18 + 00: 00 Anton Tretyak Devices If a computer mouse breaks down, many users do not know how to live on. The session ends and the search for a new device begins or the restoration of the broken thing to work. With basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to work with a soldering iron, you can repair your wireless mouse very quickly. Consider a step-by-step method for determining the causes of a device malfunction and restoring its resource. Sources. Anton Tretyak Anton Tretyak Administrator> - reviews, instructions, life hacks

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It began with the fact that the left button perceived pressing only with significant effort, and when pressed without effort it did not work every time. If the mouse button no longer works, but everything started the same way, then the repair plan is the same. The mouse wheel is also not eternal, its restoration is described in the article "The mouse wheel does not work", and if the wheel is alive, but does not work well (in jerks), then about it here: "The mouse wheel scrolls in jerks." It was decided to get to the insides of a non-working mouse button and clean the places of contacts. It would be nice to disassemble the mouse to get to the button. There were no difficulties with this: I unscrewed two screws in the battery compartment and the case opened:

The photo below shows the culprit. A small button in the center of the photo next to the inverted SW1 caption:

Its upper part sits on four plastic pins soldered on top. We carefully cut this fastener with a clerical knife, pick it out and remove the upper part with it. We now have access to the internal parts: the moving parts of the button and the contact metal membrane (see photo below).

The underside of the membrane, which is the closing one, is covered with a dark bloom, which we need to remove. Rubbed with alcohol, then rubbed well - it did not help. Then I had to use a mechanical method - cleaning with a clerical knife, but only very carefully without unnecessary efforts, so as not to damage the membrane, because it may lose its ability to click.

It will not be superfluous to clean the rest of the buttons, for sure they are also covered with a bloom and will soon begin to work poorly. Tested on personal experience, and it was. Here are a couple of photos showing the result of the cleaning:

Share the article with your friends on social networks! I would be very grateful to you.

The mouse manipulator plays a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can be a hassle if there is no store or a spare tailed beast nearby. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of computer mice and how to fix them yourself. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball ones, we just note that among the optical ones, laser mice are distinguished as more accurate. Also, optical manipulators are of the visible spectrum (emit red light) and infrared spectrum, the efficiency of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

To repair a computer mouse, we need:

• screwdriver
• nippers (side cutters)
• multimeter
• soldering iron and solder
• heat shrink tubing or other consumables, depending on the type of detected breakdown

The mouse is one of the devices whose reliability has been brought to a high level (we are talking about devices produced by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. Typical breakdowns of mice include the following:

• break (break) of the wire
• button failure
• broken scroll wheel.

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is due to the bending of the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bending when moving the mouse over the working surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain "kink" of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also characteristic. Repairing a broken wire is simple: making sure that you have localized the breakage, we bite off the wire a couple of centimeters higher and lower from the damaged area with wire cutters. Next, we solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires.Do not forget to insulate them with a heat-shrinkable tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse, to do this, you can carefully cut the original rubber "cable gland", remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in a little glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or case. For the purpose of further maintainability, I use hot melt glue. How it looks after renovation, see the photo.

Improper working out of clicks on the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically "by ear and by touch." The most common causes of button problems are:

In the case of problems with the scroll wheel, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

• Problems caused by knob operation. Outwardly, they manifest themselves in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerks of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the knob and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the attachment of the rotary encoder basket to its base. You can watch how to tighten the mount in this video clip
• Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdid it and broke the axle, do not despair, there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head, creating a kind of hexagon (trying it on to the knob so that there are no cranks) and heating it over the fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hex key that fits exactly into the knob hole, cut it off along the length of the axis, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axis.

I have not yet repaired many of them, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:

Mouse repair - the process of restoring the operability of the most popular computer manipulator. The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired at home.

If you know how to handle a soldering iron, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools, such as a screwdriver, pliers, scissors, etc.

In the article below, we will look at the most common optical mouse breakdowns and how to repair them at home.

If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you yourself will be able to fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.

You can connect many different devices to a computer, however, there are two, without which it will be impossible to work with it. The first is the keyboard, without which the PC, most often, will not even boot. The second is the mouse. Without it, the computer, in principle, can be controlled, but doing it from the keyboard is very inconvenient.

Throughout the history of the development of computer technology, a huge number of different manipulators have been invented and used: trackpads, joysticks, touchpads, etc. However, nothing simpler and more convenient to the well-known mouse has not yet been invented!

The mouse is good for everyone, however, over time, like any technique, it can break down. Fortunately, standard mice have a fairly simple design and can be repaired at home, even by people far from electronics! If your mouse has recently begun to junk, I hope our article will help you fix it.

Nowadays, there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which will be enough for most users. By the way, the photo above is just a manipulator of this type. He had a broken scroll wheel, which prompted me to write this article 🙂

However, let's not get ahead of ourselves, but consider what kind of breakdowns occur in optical mice most often:

As you can see, there are not so many typical breakdowns of a computer mouse. If you correctly identify the symptoms of problems, then they can be quickly localized and eliminated. Therefore, we will not rant for a long time, but get down to business.

To perform any kind of mouse repair, first of all, you need to disassemble it. This is usually done with a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws only hold the back of the mouse. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed by means of special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to lift it slightly by the freed back part and slowly pull it towards you. You can still press a little more on it from the front, but the main thing is not very hard, otherwise you will break!

When you remove the top cover, under it you will find a small printed circuit board, which, usually, is fixed only on small plastic pins (although it can be screwed to the case. Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of LED and a sensitive photosensor:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to remove the printed circuit board from it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots). We are ready for initial inspection and repair!

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse does not work at all, if it is frayed somewhere or one of the wires is cut off (if, of course, the mouse is wired). A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

1. Food - red (options: golden, orange, blue, white).
2. Data reception - white (options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
3. Data transfer - green (options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
4. Earth - black (options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can unambiguously judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board).

Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer twisting 🙂 You can read how to splicate stranded wires correctly here, and here I will just give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wire, try connecting the mouse to your computer - it should work. If it doesn't work, then there can be two options: either the cable is interrupted in one more place, or it's time to throw out the mouse 🙂

To exclude the option with another break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug using a multitester or other device (you can find out about the methods of dialing, again, from the article about crimping a twisted pair).

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately hover the cursor at a certain point.It constantly shivers and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse.

The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table. To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it out to blow out fine dust that may adhere when it gets wet. After that, gently, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the hole of the sensor. After making a couple of turns and not stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts to clean, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can remove the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse. However, this already requires a certain skill, so not everyone will be able to pull it off.

It so happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article.

First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which slippage of the axle will be observed in the problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then a breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could loosen and it should be slightly compacted:

To do this, take small pliers and, in turn, press them down on the four metal brackets that attach the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time squeeze harder. Try plugging in your mouse and see if the negative effect of scrolling has diminished after each press.

Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery packaging and stuck it inside the mechanism:

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

The last, and most annoying, breakdown is a non-working button. Whether the left one, the right one, or the one under the wheel is not important - they are all usually the same. The important thing is that the inoperative button is practically not repaired in any way. You can only replace its microswitch by removing the non-working one with a soldering iron and putting in its place a new one or borrowed from another mouse.

The microswitch has three “legs”, the first of which is a regular latch, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. The latch does not need to be soldered. It only serves as “foolproof” so that you don't insert the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.

Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed.Such a symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to fill the washed area with a drop of epoxy resin or molten plastic.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it. This case can be solved by soldering the microswitch or. programmatically! In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to “cure” double-clicking is to remove the mouse driver. How to remove the driver correctly is written here.

Mice are one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse!

You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair.

I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown. Successful repairs to you!

And although computer mice have evolved significantly since the first appearance of this wonderful device, they still break. Let's talk today about computer mice, or rather about repairing a wireless computer mouse.

For the first computer mice, the main scourge was contamination of the very ball that transmits mechanical movement to electronic sensors. Those who remember those times know that cleaning this very ball from dirt was a dubious pleasure. In addition, such a mouse required a rug, otherwise the rubberized ball did not travel well on the table.

The time has come and we got rid of this rudiment. There were optical computer mice. Everything would be fine, but the wire with which such an optical mouse was connected to the computer's system unit eventually fell into disrepair, and it ceased to obey its owner. The consequences of this could be dire, up to the complete destruction of a computer mouse against a merciless brick wall.

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But here, too, our botanical friends figured out how to save us from this misfortune - the connecting wire. They began to transmit data from the mouse to the computer via radio waves. Everything would be fine, but the user of such a wireless mouse has to regularly replace dead batteries.

And now, it would seem, all the most malicious attributes have sunk into oblivion: a ball, wires. What's left? Buttons! Yes, yes, it was they who began to break down most often making our beloved computer mouse completely unavailable. As practice shows, problems with buttons are found not only in cheap models of computer mice, but also in fairly branded ones like VAIO.

But, for an avid electronics lover, such a malfunction is not only a challenge to his experience, but also a real opportunity to dig deeper into the insides of this amusing device. Moreover, if this is not a simple wired mouse, but a wireless one.

Despite the fact that the development of modern means of information input leads to getting rid of various mechanical devices, computer mice still have buttons in their composition.

On the repair table is a SONY VAIO wireless computer mouse model VGP-WMS4. Diagnosis - incorrect operation of the left mouse button (LMB). Everything else works fine. The reason is also clear. When working with a computer, we more often use the left button than the right or center button (the one under the wheel).

To open the case, we need scalpel screwdriver.The screws that hold the body together are located under the plastic tabs to reduce friction. They must be carefully peeled off from the case and put in a clean place. After the repair, we will glue them to the body again. To unscrew the screws, I had to look for a hexagonal nozzle - the screws have a figured groove.

After opening, an electronic filling appears in front of us. It was done with dignity. The left and right buttons are three-pin, momentary buttons.

If we carefully remove the scroll wheel, then under it we will find a micro button. It is this that we press when we press the wheel - this is the third, central input button.

Let's digress from the repair and at the same time study the device of a wireless computer mouse. As you can see in the photo, several microcircuits are installed on the main board. The one in the square case is rather responsible for wireless data transmission. An antenna is clearly visible on the printed circuit board, which is made in the form of copper tracks directly on the printed circuit board.

An open optocoupler acts as a sensor for rotation of the central wheel. The optocoupler consists of an infrared LED - the one in a transparent case and with two leads, as well as a phototransistor. It has a dark body and three pins.

The wheel has through grooves.

When the wheel moves, the through grooves are replaced by partitions. As a result, infrared radiation passes and does not pass through the base of the wheel. The received signals from the phototransistor go to the microcontroller, which processes the received data.

Also in the case you can find an optical system. It consists of a bright LED, a lens system and a photo sensor.

All computer mouse electronics are powered by two AA alkaline batteries (1.5V). Moreover, for the operation of the mouse, both the voltage of 1.5V and 3V are removed. A connecting wire comes off the middle contact in the battery compartment. Most likely, the voltage of 1.5V from one battery is used to power the controllers, and 3V is used to power other parts of the circuit, for example, the bright red LED, which is part of the optical system of the reader.

Let's go back to repairing our computer mouse. Finding the right replacement button can be difficult at times. But it doesn't matter. You can use another computer mouse as a "donor". As a rule, the button of the right key of many of them is working, and it can be used for replacement. An optical wired mouse was used as a donor mouse. At one time, she also died a heroic death after numerous attempts to restore the connecting wire. After a short "tail" remained from the wire, she flew to the storeroom

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Let's take a look at its device. As we can see on the printed circuit board we are already familiar with buttons, a scroll wheel, a photosensor (a microcircuit in the middle of the board), an LED and a controller microcircuit. It is worth noting that this computer mouse uses not an optocoupler, but a multi-turn encoder as a scroll wheel sensor.

This is not a buzz, since the encoder is an electromechanical part. And, as you know, everything mechanical is subject to wear and tear. The optocoupler will work more reliably in the VAIO mouse - there are no mechanical contact parts in the optocoupler.

As already mentioned, it is better to use the right button as a replacement button.

Here is the result of replacing the faulty button.

It is also worth recalling that when restoring the operation of the mouse, it is worth cleaning the scroll wheel, optical system and the case itself from dust. Since the computer mouse contains optical sensors, such prevention will have a positive effect on its work.