DIY repair binar 5

Prestarting liquid heaters and autonomous air heaters

Message denissyslo »20 Jun 2012, 03:55

There was a 5D binary without a modem - the control board burned out - I bought a new one.
put it - it worked.
There is only one joke - not to set the working time in any way. NO - apparently incompatibility of the versions of the console and the unit. What to do? somehow buying a new remote control or programmer is impossible at all.
Maybe you can send it to the teplostar for flashing?
No offense to the manufacturer - but everything is too clever in general. It's just a heating pad for the engine, it should be as simple as a few buttons and a couple of functions, and here people are singing programmers. Now they will pour boiling water over me here, but all the same: on other cars there is a Webasta and a Hydronic, it was not necessary to dance with a tambourine around them.

And another question: does the binar smoke with white smoke like a pig at the maximum mode?

Message Kolma »20 Jun 2012, 05:54

By the way, when they compare Webasta with Binar, they only pay attention to the price of the device (the installation is about the same in price), but they miss the point of operational cost. The Germans break down the same and not so rarely as many think, and spare parts for them cost a lot.
Judging by the forum, where people come only with problems (with rare exceptions) and discuss them, the latest version of Binar has no weak points (only the new temperature sensors are junk). The whole range of problems discussed on the forum concerns old versions of Binars, all of them are taken into account by the plant and corrected for which the manufacturer has a separate respect !.

Message denissyslo »20 June 2012, 06:10

I'm not saying that binar is bad. The price wins, I admit it. I really liked some moments, such as turning on the interior fan ONLY AFTER the engine warms up, which the Germans do not have. I don't know about the Germans - I drive three cars with German boilers - I never had any problems, except for a couple of times, when in the cold either the fuel was intercepted, or something else - I poured kerosene into the tank and everything is ok.
I got mine like this: I bought a car in 2005, it had a binary on it, but not a working one. We immediately stuck a webasta there. And then I disassembled this one - there was a burned-out boiler board. It seemed to me a transistor of a candle. I ordered a new one - put it on one of my cars - it worked, there is no H20 error, but at the same time it does not respond to a long press of the left key, the battery voltage does not show, I cannot set the warm-up time, the day of the week too. I can't see the software version. Those. I don’t know for a year, although it may be registered in the document — you have to look.

If it's not difficult - guide you on the right path (there is a lot of information on the forum - read everything inside and out - there is no time and your head will burst) - poke the link:
- how to adjust the fuel supply
- how to solve my problem with the remote control, can the company representatives be able to reflash?

Message IKI »20 June 2012, 06:37

Message denissyslo »20 June 2012, 07:24

Thank you for your prompt response!
1) - wrote in a personal
2) - I don't know
3) - I can't look
This is what the Remote control found - serial number 01183, issue date 03.11,2009
4) - how much the control unit is working out, I can't say - it’s scary to turn on the smoke for a long time, it’s scary, I think that the standard time is logical.

Another thought came to me: I made a "revision" - I threw out the relay for turning on the stove and its fuse, ie + switching on the relay from the unit is insulated and weighs in the air, no load. and the relay wiring has been neatly (I emphasize this word) removed from the harness. Couldn't this have affected?

Message denissyslo »21 June 2012, 05:05

It turns out like this:
1) Smoke: Apparently this is not because of the pump, but a consequence of point two.
2) Launch: My binar does not want to launch itself.It has been experimentally established: If during ignition at the moment the fuel pump is turned on with a finger, do not close-open-close for a short time. the opening of the suction pipe, thereby reducing the air flow - the flame does not fire, as a result of which the diesel fuel is inflated by the air flow along the outlet pipe and when the binar starts up, it starts to burn in the exhaust pipe - so it smokes, as everything burns out - it works cleanly. During operation, as the engine warms up, the heater goes into standby mode with the flame extinguishing, the subsequent automatic start as part of the program - the flame ignites without problems. But for the first ignition, such a dance is required.

3) the block fulfills the time of 40 minutes. After which (successful execution of the program) error H18 is issued and the LED blinks. If you leave the button during operation, the same is the LED + H18 for everyone?

Who will advise what about the ignition problem, maybe someone else had such a problem?

Alexey Naumik and the resistor with what markings, is there not a 1500 inscription? It just burned out.

I don’t know Vladimir Leb, it’s not visible, I didn’t pick it out completely.

Thank you. I have a binar with 13 g worth while it works. info useful

We must start with the wrong installation. The Binar-Compact heater can be mounted in one position with the coolant pipes upward, the maximum allowable slope from this position is 45 degrees. flat mounting is not allowed.

PetrovKamensk Yes, we know, but impossible!

A very useful video. I also got error 27 and 10. I hope that the solution will be easier because of the cover because the plastic squeak was constantly heard. But if there is an option like in your case, you will have to learn how to solder. But it’s never too late to learn. experience to help me. There will be questions during the repair process, I will definitely ask you. Thank you.

ask oleg smirnov, but if you have no experience in soldering, you'd better not go astray. I recommend disassembling, preparing everything on the table, checking that the joint is really in contact (with a finger, as I checked), calling a familiar electronics engineer for tea, and at the same time soldering it. But a soldering iron is needed with a sharp tip. Gently as much as possible with a sealant, it is solid.

When turning on and operating the Binar-5D (B) -Compact heater, malfunctions may occur. In this case, the pre-heater control unit automatically issues a command to turn off the pre-heater. Each malfunction that occurs is coded and automatically highlighted on the indicator. In this case, the fault code and the LED displaying the operation of the pre-heater will rarely blink.

- Overheating. - Possible overheating. The temperature difference between the overheating sensor and the temperature sensor is too great.

1. Check the complete liquid circuit.
2. Check the pump, replace if necessary.
3. Check temperature sensor and overheating sensor, replace if necessary.
4. Check the quality of the antifreeze to be used depending on the ambient temperature.

- Malfunction of the temperature sensor 1

- Faulty temperature sensor 2.

- Defective flame indicator.

Check connecting wires. Check the ohmic resistance between the indicator contacts, which should be no more than 10 ohms. Replace flame indicator if defective.

- Faulty temperature sensor on the unit.

Replace the heater control unit.

- Flame interruption in "LOW" operating mode - Flame interruption in "FULL" operating mode.

Check the air intake, gas outlet pipe and fuel supply, eliminate any malfunctions, if necessary replace the fuel pump and flame indicator.

- Faulty glow plug

Check the glow plug, replace if necessary.

- Defective air blower. Turnovers below par.

Check motor wiring. Eliminate the malfunction, replace the air blower if necessary.

- Overheating. The heating rate of the temperature sensors is high.

one.Check the complete liquid circuit (an air lock may have formed in front of the pump and therefore the coolant is not pumped through the heater).
2. Check the condition of the coolant for its fluidity at subzero temperatures.
3. Check the pump, replace if necessary.

- Shutdown, overvoltage over 16V.

This defect is possible when the heater is turned on while the car engine is running. The cause may be a malfunction of the vehicle voltage regulator.

- Attempts to launch have been exhausted.

If the permissible number of start attempts has been used, check the amount and supply of fuel. Check air intake and flue gas pipe. Check the spark plug.

Check the electrical wiring of the circulation pump for short circuit and open circuit, check the pump and replace if necessary.

- Shutdown, undervoltage less than 9.5 V.

Check the voltage at the XS2 connector of the heater. Check the battery, vehicle voltage regulator and power supply wiring.

- Time for ventilation exceeded.

The flame sensor has not cooled sufficiently during the purge time. Check air intake and flue gas pipe. Check flame indicator and replace if necessary.

- Defective fuel pump.

Check the fuel pump wiring for a short circuit, replace if necessary.

- There is no communication between the control unit and the remote control.

Check the 5 A fuse.
Check circuits and contacts.

- Interruption of the flame in the "HEATING" mode.

Check the air intake, gas outlet pipe and fuel supply, eliminate any malfunctions, if necessary replace the fuel pump and flame indicator.

- Defective fuel pump.

Check the fuel pump wiring for open circuit, replace if necessary.

- Defective air blower. The engine does not rotate.

- Defective air blower. The engine rotates without control.

Check wiring, air blower and control unit, replace if necessary.

- Fired up attempts during heater operation.

Check the fuel system. Check the tightness of the clamps on the fuel line, the tightness of the fuel line, the tightness of the union on the fuel pump, the performance of the fuel pump.

- Flame rupture in the combustion chamber due to voltage drop.

Check the storage battery, wiring. (Voltage sags may occur due to prolonged engagement of the electric starter).

- Fixed flame blowout during operation.

Shown for user information.
Check the tightness of the clamps on the fuel line, the tightness of the fuel line, the tightness of the union on the fuel pump.

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• retulov
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• Where: Moscow
• Registered: 2015-09-30
• Posts: 101
• Thank you: 32

After much deliberation and a vain search on the network, it was decided to install a liquid pre-heater on Leaf. The choice fell on the Binar 5D compact, because the network has a lot of good reviews for it and a more favorable price compared to the Germans. Diesel decided to take for more safety. I intend to put on my own. In the near future I will post installation reports. Well, it wasn't.

• gtmarino
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• Registered: 2014-09-04
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After much deliberation and a vain search on the network, it was decided to install a liquid pre-heater on Leaf. The choice fell on the Binar 5D compact, because the network has a lot of good reviews for it and a more favorable price compared to the Germans. Diesel decided to take for more safety. I intend to put on my own. In the near future I will post installation reports. Well, it wasn't.

GREAT. also looked after him)

Repair, diagnostics of Prius, bodices in Artem, signaling, secret, kondishka, Russification (only Prius 30) 89940024640

• retulov
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And so he began gradually.To begin with, I removed the bumper to inspect for free space and possible placement of Binar 5D.

How to remove the bumper, there are detailed instructions in the section, installing fog lights, here. https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2300/viewtopic.php?id=154

So, under the hood is not immediately. Under the right headlamp, a lot of space is occupied by the barrel of the glass washers.

So the place under the left headlight begs.

Here you can see one of the two pumps, the cooling systems of the units (not the stove pump, there is a separate circuit) and a chant for pedestrians.

Actually the heater itself Binar 5D, purchased for 26 thousand rubles, includes a remote control with a timer and the entire installation kit, including a BOSH pump and an allegedly Japanese Koiser candle. The heater is slightly larger in size Hydronic from Ebershpeicher, which costs about 33 thousand, and the remote control for it is purchased separately, about 3.5 thousand more.

The manufacturer recommends installing it only horizontally, even if it fits well vertically, between the aluminum beam and the spar.
I decided to install it slightly at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the car. Trying on a standard mounting bracket.

I fasten, through the corners made of plates, to the pump mount. There are two normal bolts that are screwed into the spar.

The lower part of the bracket, through the standard plate, was also attached to the spar, there is a good bolt at the bottom.

I installed another plate inside the aluminum beam to mount the heater itself.

So we put on the heater, screw it on. It seems to be all the rules, it holds, only the bolt on the right of the bracket is not screwed in.

I remove the heater, it turns out to be at the right attachment point to the bracket, there is a hole, but there is no thread, hello from Samara (where the gauge was going)
And this is a vaunted heater, with foreign filling and even instructions in English. Well, I take the tap and cut the thread. Or maybe it should have been? No nonsense.

Now we drain the liquid from the heating system. Ideally, it is best to work on a lift or pit with the plastic protectors removed. But I didn't have such an opportunity, so I worked from above. For a start, of course, it's better to free up some space under the hood. I removed the battery, its platform, took the wires and upper hoses aside. At the bottom there is a drain tap, I connect a pipe to it and open it.

Well, I substitute the bottle. There are about two liters in the system, but about 1.2 liters are drained, part of it remains in the electric heating element.

We decide how and where the hoses will go and where we will consistently cut into the system. I decided on the diagram here.

I installed the pump on the spar, placing rubber, and attaching it with a metal clamp and plastic ties, attached the hose. The liquid from the pump will go to the heater and from there to the electric heater. Accordingly, the liquid will come to the pump from the standard pump, which pumps liquid from the tank.

We begin to cut and connect the hoses, since one hose is bent because of the bend so that it wedges, we have to set an additional angle. I say it again, it is much more convenient to put it from below. From above, the hands barely climb, it is difficult to tighten the clamps. A day after installation, I once again extended all the clamps, since there was a small leak on the pump. All clamps stretch.

Installation of the fuel system. Together with Binar, a flat tank of 7 liters was purchased for 1.5 thousand rubles. It was decided to install it behind an aluminum bumper, on the left when looking at the muzzle. I pulled them to the beam with ties. Hangs pretty tight.

I laid rubber everywhere in the places of pressure, just cut it along the trimming of the pipes. There is space under and behind the tank, so I think that cooling the radiator will not worsen. In addition, this is not an internal combustion engine, it hardly heats up.

The fuel line turns out to be very short, although 10 meters are attached. The fuel pump was installed directly above Binar.

The air intake (black in the photo) brought it above the flap, under the hood, there is where to place it. The exhaust pipe (everything, now not zero emission) did not work in this form, it was altered. Shortened and completely tucked into the thermal sleeve.And the end of the pipe was rigidly fixed with an additional bracket so that it would not dangle and brought it out into the hole cut in the fender liner. The gap between the pipe and the edges of the hole was made in a centimeter so as not to touch or melt.

You don't really need to talk about connecting the wiring, it is very long and there is complete freedom. The most difficult thing here is the output of the remote control to the salon. A huge beam enters the passenger compartment to the right of the ABS unit. I put a steel wire under the rubber seal, and tied the wire to it.

From the side of the cabin, I had to dismantle the glove compartment, and a bundle of wires comes in under it. Steel wire (seen in the photo), pulled out the wire and connected it to the remote control supplied with the connector.

The remote control itself decided to be installed in a prominent place, because for ordinary users of Binar lighters and the remote control is needed mainly only before starting the engine. It also requires constant monitoring. For a long time I did not like this plug at the bottom under the climate buttons, and I decided to drill it. The remote control is located on it.

Of course, against the background of Japanese design, it looks like a collective farm, but I even like it in the dark.

It was decided not to connect the binar, neither to the climate, nor even to the fan. So far I decided to manage everything manually and understand the algorithm of the climate with a heated liquid.

In general, so far, there are many tests ahead. I hope to shoot a video of the work cycle. If you have rational suggestions, write.

By the way. When I put the bumper in place, the fog lamp plug rested against Binar, I had to screw it up. I cut a circle out of it and closed the hole in the front. All the same, I was not going to put foglights.

• retulov
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Well, I traveled the first week to work with a diesel stove. First impressions, so to speak. Heat. Although it was warm during the week, about 6 grams, today is zero. In general, everything works fine, but you have to, as they say, monitor the devices. After leaving the garage, the car seemed to be warm, since it was warming up from the outlet. After 20 minutes of driving, I start the ignition. The stove is tested for 2 minutes, then heating begins. I track the temperature of the liquid on the remote control. As it rises to 60 degrees, I cut in the climate (25 degrees, the fan is full). Electricity consumption on the screen is zero and does not increase. Heat in two minutes. 10 minutes before the end of the trip, I cut down the diesel engine, the circulation due to the climate remains and the car takes the rest of the heat from the liquid. This is enough to comfortably drive home. My mileage at zero degrees, 115 km per day, the display meter gives another 20 km. Saving energy on the face.

An interesting feature of the work of the climate. He understands that the liquid is hot enough and does not turn on the electric heating. At the same time, it regulates the cold air supply with the dampers, depending on the set temperature. So, for example, at 25 grams in the climate, it is comfortable. Unscrew it by 32, the heat begins and you can see from the Binar control panel how the temperature of the liquid drops. That is, through the salon stove, the circulation of the liquid does not change. But the computer just starts to drive all the incoming air through the radiator in the cabin. At 19 degrees, only part of the air goes to the stove, the rest is past it, right from the street. This can be seen in the climate design.

By the way, Binar has his own algorithm. It works in two modes, max and min. They cannot be chosen. On max, he gets to 75 gr and switches to min. If the heat consumption continues intensively, then the temperature drops to 70 and the max. If the consumption is minimal and the min mode is enough to continue heating the liquid, then it reaches 85 grams and goes into standby mode. On the Binar forums, people even ask the developers to implement forced inclusion of the mine mode so that they do not jump back and forth. Basically, this is a matter of firmware.

Until such a preliminary report, tests will continue in cold weather. I will try to shoot a video in the near future.

Last winter I purchased a pre-heater. I bought the installation from dealers and cost 10,000 rubles. they said that the guarantee will fly off if installed not with them. I installed it myself with the help of a friend.I worked well in the winter, in the summer I started to go crazy showing a high temperature of about 227 degrees, refused to start, citing an error in the temperature sensor and a malfunction of the control unit. The book clearly stated the replacement of the control unit. I wrote a letter to the warranty department of "Teplostar" attaching a guarantee and a receipt. They offered me to change the temperature sensor myself and sent it. I was very glad that they responded, thank you very much.

That's how I have it under the hood on the left side, I had to move the adsorber a little, it seems that is what it is called.

The control unit is located in the top cover and is secured with two screws. It is necessary to pull out the wires of the candle and the flame indicator from the connectors, remember the polarity, and pull out the 2 temperature sensors, having previously removed their fasteners.

Block and next to mount sensors.

After dialing the sensors, I found one breakdown. I soldered a new sensor and put it on heat shrink tubes.

#1 wrote: Sky (10 Sep 2013 18:44)

I will catch up and jump over

Model E46 Bavarian Fan Works

#2 wrote: RA9UBD (Oct 1, 2013 10:32 am)

Of course I put it myself. I don't give a shit about the guarantee, because I decided to repair it myself, I have enough knowledge.

In general, I have already replaced absolutely everything in it! This year I replaced the burner, which is inside the boiler.
There they still have trouble, it's a flame sensor. It is made of the wrong metal, and it melts from the flame of burning gasoline.

I use it every summer so that I can skate through the winter without any problems. Enough for one winter.
But it all depends on how to use it. I run it in the winter, I run it 3 to 4 times a day. Therefore, my burner has worn out in three years, the mesh in it has burned out.

In general, this Binar is Russian-made, and it is very similar to the Russian TAZ car! It also breaks down often, but the parts are cheap.

#3 wrote: StMax (Oct 3, 2013 01:36 PM)

#4 wrote: RA9UBD (Oct 3, 2013 04:20 PM)

But it cost me in any case cheaper than Webasta.
When I thought about installing the atomic, I calculated everything and decided to install our heater. Because I understood that it was Russian SHIT, and it would start to crumble. But since I'm a techie, for me to repair something like that, it won't be a problem, I understood that I would repair it.
In general, it happened. In the first winter, the joint was my fault, because I removed the sealant from the control board, and water got on the board, i.e. codensat, and after 1 month as I put it, it failed me. Then it rushed, because of this I took it apart three times.
If I hadn't got there right away, everything would have been fine.
But the flame detectors, they have shit! But they cost 150 rubles. The webasta has $ 80. the price tag is horse.
Here are the prices for spare parts for Binar: (there in the middle somewhere about binar.)

The most expensive thing I bought for Binar is a New control unit, (since I lost my own) 2000 rubles, and this year the combustion chamber is 1650 rubles. And every year a flame sensor for 150 rubles. The combustion chamber has worked for 3 years! I started it 3-4 times a day, as soon as the thermometer dropped below 0 degrees. In general, there are operating hours xs how many hours. The combustion chamber just got dirty with some kind of tar from our gasoline, i.e. the mesh is dirty, because of this, constant flame breaks.

I understand that Webasta is of better quality, but I just didn't have 45 rubles 4 years ago, it was very expensive for me. Now, of course, I would have saved 45, but before I was able to collect only 14,500 rubles, this is how much Binar cost.
Now it costs 19,500.

By the way, they are great fellows, in comparison with Russian cars, where they do not want to fix jambs. They are constantly working to improve their products. They now have a very good product quality, a very good alternative to Webaste. And if a jamb comes out, then they change the part by calling the company, or you can write on the forum.

But giving 45 rubles for Webast is too much. She's not worth it. It is then available to very wealthy dudes.

#5 wrote: StMax (Oct 4, 2013 07:34 AM)

#6 wrote: RA9UBD (Oct 4, 2013 09:35 AM)

Try. It has become more expensive, but the quality has improved significantly. They are good fellows that they are constantly working on this. They have an upgrade once a year.The pump used to be a downright Russian, from a gazelle that flowed, now Bosh. She has no oil seals. When I bought mine, the pump was Russian, but I already had a pump on the Bosheskaya stove, I used it, but I couldn't stand it, because. binar to the contour of the stove.

Binar has advantages over Webasta. Webasta is designed for a person who technically does not understand anything at all. Stupidly set and use it. Some kind of malfunction will appear, then only in the service, and they will be repaired for wild money, if the warranty has passed. Webasta does not have the ability to diagnose a malfunction directly on the remote control, only connect a diagnostic scanner or a computer. The Germans love to do this, they have all the cars, the dick you can do it yourself, only for service. And their webasta is the same.

Binar has the ability to make diagnostics directly on the remote control. If a malfunction occurs, it issues a malfunction code immediately, and you can see the malfunction. There is no trace of this in Webast.

Also on the Binar remote control, you can set 3 automatic start timers, by day to week.
You can watch the temperature and battery voltage on the remote control.

And also not unimportant, Binar has an LED remote control, and does not freeze in the cold, like Webasta has an LCD!

Although there is nothing to watch on Webast. How many times I have seen a couple of Webast on cars, when installing alarms, so there on the remote control even the timer cannot be set. Apparently, it was the most deshman remote control. But they called me the price tags for Webastu in this configuration 35 tr. 45 this is visible with the installation. And if the remote control is equipped with a timer, then 35 tr is even more expensive.

Another plus of Binar is that it can officially be connected to the alarm without any problems, the instructions indicate how and where. It is triggered by an additional signaling channel impulse. You can turn it off with the same impulse, or on the remote control with a button.

There is no such connection on Webast, but the Russian people started kolkhoz, there is a black wire from the remote control. If you apply + 12V to it, then Webasta works, if you remove + 12V, it does not work. To do this, it is necessary that the signaling could turn on the channel for permanent operation. This is inconvenient because have to turn off the same way on the keychain. You can't turn it off on the remote control.

As the saying goes, everything that is bad for a German is good for a Russian, and vice versa.

Good day to all!
After long and painful deliberation, it was decided to install a liquid, autonomous, pre-heater. The choice fell on the Russian-made product “Binar” from the company “Teplostar” (not advertising). By the way, they have an updated model. The choice was based on the reasonable price and relatively good reviews on the forums. I decided to try it for myself.
So:
Car-Toyota Hiace truck, double cab, 4wd;
Product - Binar 5S Diecel.

Having received it from the transport company, we examine the contents.

The heater itself, pump, fuel pump, control panel, wiring and a solid installation kit, including: hoses, various adapters, clamps, etc. Additionally, I ordered a separate fuel tank, more on that later.
Long search for a suitable place for installation. Since I did not find free places under the hood, two places were found most (as it seemed to me) suitable. It is on the frame behind the cab on the left side and front. Later I have an option; behind the cab, I threw it away, because I would have to crash into the rear stove with a small section of the hose, plus there would be a long circuit.
The installation site is in front, it became on the frame, on the right. In place of the safely amputated evaporator of the air conditioner, for no reason, firstly the air conditioner was not working, and secondly, on the coast of the Tatar Strait, this function is perfectly performed by the cool wind blowing through the window.

The connection diagram for the cooling system looks something like this.

The pump was installed nearby, on the frame side member, there was some kind of bolt hole. I crashed into the cooling system in front of the furnace tap. Hose diameter 18 mm, as in the installation kit, did not have to use adapters.

Particular attention had to be paid to the non-return valve.since I did not find a specialized one, I had to use a regular plumbing. It was difficult to open on blowing, so part of the spring was cut off.

On the back of the stove, a 14 mm hose was installed, the corresponding fittings were supplied to the check valve.

Since there is no confidence in the quality of fuel at the gas station, I did not bump into a stationary highway, especially into a tank. I decided to put a separate tank for 7 liters. Initially, he considered the place behind the cockpit, but alas, he did not fit in there. And the only suitable place was in the cabin, behind the driver's seat. Since the machine performs mainly work functions, there was no question of aesthetics. So I did not notice such a smell in the cabin, only at the time of refueling. I’m lying, it didn’t smell much until I inserted a normal gasket into the cork. In the summer we will see if it smells strongly, I will make a ventilation system for the tank (thoughts are already there.).

The fuel pump is located between the fuel tank and the front fender, the line is neatly laid down in the technological holes of the cab support and in the upper arm mount. By the way, the pump power connector seemed flimsy to me, time will tell, just in case, I installed a plate below on the ledge that acts as a splash guard.

Current time: 10/18/18, 17:49

Zverev "03.12.10, 23:42 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

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Zverev »04.12.10, 09:39 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

Andres58 "04.12.10, 10:59 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

carmusic "12/04/10, 12:19 PM Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

GED »04.12.10, 19:21 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

so it started for me

tell me where to loosen which bolt? otherwise I have already screwed it up so that the hell crawl
Should the supercharger be removed or not?
tomorrow I'm going to loosen up

ZY I went, somehow got it out, unscrewed it and put it back together, but did not tighten it too much. It seems to work, Fuh

diamonds "04.12.10, 21:39 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

MAE $ TR0 "05.12.10, 17:57 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

danil90 "05.12.10, 18:23 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

hmuriy "05.12.10, 19:42 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

VovaN. "06.12.10, 10:00 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

so it started for me

tell me where to loosen which bolt? otherwise I have already screwed it up so that the hell crawl
Should the supercharger be removed or not?
I'll go ass tomorrow

ZY I went, somehow got it out, unscrewed it and put it back together, but did not tighten it too much. It seems to work, Fuh

Hello. I didn't have time to answer. And so, you also went "the same way", began to remove the supercharger itself! Himself similarly - removed the air blower, - etc. that still "dregs". Only you don't need to shoot anything. Just free up the black cover of the supercharger itself, so that it does not fit tightly in its seat! It can be heavily drowned, with the same battery when you take it off and put it back in place. Because I put my supercharger on the side of the wing on the "regular" place, as shown on pages 1-2, But this is in pursuit, who will put the black cover in the same way in the future - do not clamp it!

GED "07.12.10, 13:20 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience

doctor "07.12.10, 22:28 Re: Binar-5D discussion, installation, sharing experience